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Stray rocks flying up from the road can easily chip the paint on a car. Ignoring rock chips leaves you more than the unsightly nicks; the chipped areas can get bigger and start to rust, too, leading to greater problems down the road. Fixing the chips is, however, a task that is neither onerous nor exceedingly time consuming. The sooner you fix the chips, the better your car will look and the more protected from rust it will be.

Instructions

1

Clean off the area of the car that has the rock chips in it. Use soap and water to remove debris. Allow time for the car to dry.

2

Sand down the chipped area with sand paper that is 1500- to 2000-grit. This will help to remove any loose paint from the chipped area. It will also help the paint to adhere to the area.

3

Wipe off the sanded area with a damp, lint-free cloth. Using the lint-free cloth will help to make sure that no threads or cloth get stuck in the chipped area.

4

Apply paint that matches your car color. Paint stores can match the color using a small chip, or you can call your car manufacturer to find out what colors were used on your car in the year that it was produced. Paint the chip and paint the area around the chip as well. Allow time to dry between coats before applying another coat. Three to four coats is typically sufficient.

5

Sand down the area. Use sandpaper to get the paint in the chipped area level with the rest of the car surface. Avoid sanding any area to which you have not applied paint, as those areas do not have the extra paint applied that you need to sand down.

6

Apply rubbing compound and buff the area with a soft rag. This will help the paint to blend in better and have a polish to it.

7

Apply wax or polish to protect the new paint.

Car key remotes are helpful because they allow you to lock and unlock your vehicles doors and trunk from afar. They also eliminate the need to locate that tiny little key slot on your car when youre parked in a dark driveway or in the rain. It can be annoying when your car remote breaks, but it is an easy fix.

Instructions

1

Call your car dealership. All car manufacturers feature links on their websites, where you can input your ZIP code to search for the dealer nearest you.

2

Ask to speak to someone in the maintenance department. Explain in detail the issues you are having with your car remote. Sometimes the issue is one that is easily fixable and the mechanic can talk you through the process of fixing it over the phone. If its not, youll need to take the remote to the dealership.

3

Give the remote to a mechanic and ask whether you should wait in the reception area or come back later for the remote.

Vibration causes threaded fasteners to work loose. This allows parts to become unstable and possibly fall free of each other. Permatex threadlocker creates a bond between the female and male threads of a connection. Properly applying Permatex threadlocker to the connection before assembly provides the fasteners with the bond needed to avoid failure of the connection when subjected to vibration.

Instructions

1

Clean the female threads of the connection by sliding a round wire brush into the opening, twisting the handle of the brush and pulling the brush from the threaded hole.

2

Remove debris from the male threads of the connection by running over the threads with a wire brush.

3

Spray aerosol part cleaner on the cleaned male and female threads. Allow the part cleaner to dry for 10 to 15 minutes.

4

Apply part primer to all prepared threads entering the connection. Allow the primer to dry for 15 to 20 minutes.

5

Remove the cap from the Permatex threadlocker. Tilt the nozzle of the threadlocker toward the female threads of a deep threaded hole or the male threads of a bolt and nut connection. Squeeze the bottle of threadlocker to apply a generous amount of product to the threads.

6

Connect the male and female threads of the connection using standard connecting methods.

7

Clean excess Permatex threadlocker from the area surrounding the connection with aerosol part cleaner and a clean rag.

Since 1926 Mercedes-Benz have been selling all over the world, making them one of the most well-known luxury brands of all time. When you purchase a Mercedes-Benz vehicle from any dealership you are given two car keys and a valet key, which is used strictly for parking and will not open your trunk and/or glove compartment. If you lose your keys or you decide youd like an additional key for your Mercedes, you must contact an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership.

Instructions

1

Contact your local Mercedes-Benz dealership. Your 1995 E320 comes with a keyless entry system that requires a special key manufactured by Mercedes-Benz USA to operate the vehicle.

2

Provide Mercedes-Benz with the vehicle identification number, or VIN, and the year of your Mercedes E320. The VIN is located on all of your purchase paperwork, insurance cards and on the door panel of the drivers door. MB needs your VIN because it contains the key code for your specific vehicle, which lets them know exactly how to cut your new key to make it work with your MB.

3

Pick up your new key from Mercedes. Before you pay for and leave with your key you must be able to prove you own the vehicle by providing proof of ownership. Photo identification along with your purchase paperwork, title, registration and/or insurance card are all acceptable.

Most vehicles today have multiple fan speeds for the heat and A/C. These speeds are controlled by a blower motor resistor. The blower motor resistor is a small electrical device that controls the voltage to the fan motor. If the resistor becomes defective, you may only have one working speed on your fan control. If this problem occurs, the blower motor resistor will need to be replaced. It s a fairly inexpensive part and is available at most car part stores.

Instructions

1

Locate the heater blower resistor in your vehicle. It is typically mounted under the dash near the blower motor. You may need to check your vehicles repair guide, or your car dealership to help determine the resistors location. Parts of the dash may need to be removed depending on resistor location.

2

Remove the wire connector from the blower motor resistor by lifting the tab on the connector and gently pulling the connector off the resistor. This may require working the connector back and forth a few times to free it from the resistor.

3

Remove the two screws holding the resistor in place. These may be screws or small bolts depending on your vehicle. The resistor should now be able to be removed.

4

Position the new resistor in place, and secure it with the two screws. Reconnect the wire connector by firmly pressing it onto the resistor. Replace and dash parts that were previously removed.

Nothing can be more frustrating than a broken-off bolt on your vehicles exhaust manifold. Not only is this putting stress on the rest of the attaching bolts for the manifold and the manifold itself, dangerous carbon monoxide could be escaping from the manifold and working its way into the passenger compartment. It is very important that you correct a broken exhaust manifold bolt from a mechanical as well as a safety standpoint.

Instructions

1

Use penetrating fluid on all of the exhaust manifold bolts, including the broken one. Let the penetrating fluid work in for several hours.

2

Loosen the remaining exhaust manifold bolts. Give the bolts another dose of penetrating fluid if one or more bolts still will not budge. Allow the fluid to soak in for an hour or so. Apply some heat with a propane torch if you still have any stuck bolts. Concentrate the heat onto the center of the stubborn bolt until it is red hot. Allow the bolt to cool then loosen and remove it.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold to reach the broken bolt. Try using vise grips or an easy-out tool to twist the bolt out if part of the bolt is protruding from the engine block. Drill the bolt out if it is broken off flush with the engine block. Use a drill bit the same diameter as one of the exhaust manifold bolts without the threads.

4

Run a tap into the hole that is the same size as the exhaust manifold bolts to clean out any remaining remnants of the broken piece. Tap the remaining manifold bolt holes while you are at it to ensure the bolts will thread back in smoothly.

5

Replace the broken bolt with one of the same size and strength as the original. Take one of the good bolts to an auto parts or hardware store to make sure you get the correct replacement. Clean up the rust on the threads of the original bolts that you are going to reuse. Use a wire brush or a wire wheel installed on a bench grinder for this task.

6

Scrape off any remaining gasket material from the engine block and the exhaust manifold mounting surfaces with a gasket scraper or a putty knife. Install a new exhaust manifold gasket between the exhaust manifold and the engine block. Run in the manifold bolts finger tight. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench. Find the torque specifications for your specific model in a shop manual or from your car dealers service department.

7

Start your vehicle and check for exhaust leaks.

A tire changing machine can help you mount and dismount car tires from wheels. There are several different types of tire changing machines available, including one designed to change the tires of motorcycle wheels and one that is designed to change heavy duty tires such as those found on big rig 16-wheel cargo trucks and off-road farming equipment. Most tire changing machines also include auxiliary systems that allow you to inflate new tires, preparing them for use on the road.

Instructions

1

Remove the core of the wheels valve with a valve core remover.

2

Wedge the bead breaking blade between the inside of the tire and the rim of the wheel, and then set the blade into position.

3

Press the bead breaker pedal of the tire machine with your foot to break the bead, i.e., the edge of the tire that sits on the wheel.

4

Place the wheel on top of the clamps, while ensuring that the clamps are set in the outer configuration. Press the wheel clamp jaw pedal with your foot.

5

Move the mount/demount head onto the rim of the wheel, and then pull the vertical bar lock lever.

6

Insert a tire iron between the inside of the tire and the dismount head, and then use it to pull the inside of the tire over the dismount head.

7

Press the rotation pedal with your foot, and then lift the tire to dismount the backside.

8

Pull the backside of the tire over the dismount head with the tire iron. Press the rotation pedal with your foot.

9

Rub tire lube inside the new tire, and then place the tire on top of the wheel.

10

Lower the mounting head between the backside of the tire and the rim of the wheel. Press the rotation pedal with your foot.

11

Attach the inflation hose to the valve stem and press the inflation pedal all the way down with your foot to initiate the bead blaster. Once the bead is fully seated, partially press the inflation pedal to inflate the tire.

Occasionally, even after changing the engine oil on your 2005 Monte Carlo, the "Change Oil" light will still stay on. If this occurs, you must reset the light manually through one of two methods. The first method involves the accelerator pedal, and the second involves the radio. If you have an aftermarket radio, you will not be able to perform the second method.

Instructions

Accelerator Method

1

Turn the Monte Carlos engine off. Leave the keys in the ignition in the "Run" position.

2

Press and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds. The "Change Oil" light will flash twice and then turn off.

3

Repeat this procedure if it did not work the first time. The accelerator pedal must be fully pressed and released each time, and it must be completed three times within five seconds.

Radio Method

4

Turn the Monte Carlos engine off. Leave the keys in the ignition in the "Run" position.

5

Press and hold the "TUNE" button for five seconds. "SETTINGS" will now appear on the radio display.

6

Press the "SEEK P-TYPE" button to scroll through the options on the display. Stop when "OIL LIFE" is displayed.

7

Press the "1 PREV" button to scroll through the sub-menu. When "RESET" is displayed, press the "TUNE" button to confirm. A beep will emit from the speakers, confirming the reset procedure. "DONE" will appear on the display.

8

Press the "TUNE" button to exit the program. One more beep will be heard to confirm the exit.

Harley Davidsons original compensator on 95-cubic-inch and larger twin cams may have been inadequate for the added torque produced by the newer engine. Harley now factory installs more robust compensators. There are sometimes electronic problems with fuel injected Harleys that can be difficult to diagnose. The usual procedure for that is to retrieve and translate the trouble codes. Beyond that, troubleshooting a 95-cubic-inch twin cam is not very different from troubleshooting a flathead 45. The process always begins with throwing your leg over the bike and sitting down.

Instructions

1

Open the petcock and extend the choke. Turn the ignition key switch to "On," the handlebar run switch to "On" and start the motorcycle. If the starter does not operate, your battery is dead.

2

Shake the motorcycle from side to side and listen for gas sloshing in the fuel tank. If you hear sloshing and the starter turns over, but the bike does not start, check the spark plugs, the plug wires and the coil.

3

Inspect the spark plug wires for breaks, wear and corrosion from the coil to the plugs. Remove the front spark plug with a socket wrench and a spark plug socket and inspect the plug. If you see anything other than a perfectly intact plug with a light gray or tan coating on the electrodes, your spark plug must be replaced.

4

Start the motorcycle and idle in neutral until the rocker box covers under your left hand are warm to the touch. Ride the motorcycle.

5

Listen as you ride. If you hear knocks or pings and your spark plugs are in good shape then the gasoline in your fuel tank is bad. If you hear a typewriter chattering either your pushrods or your tappets are improperly adjusted. If you hear a squeal when you stopped your brakes are worn out.

6

Change gears. If the bike shifts hard, the shifter rod on the lower left side of the motorcycle may be bent. If the transmission jumps out of gear, the shifter forks in the transmission are improperly adjusted.

7

Brake to a stop. If the brakes do not hold, the brake fluid in your master cylinder is low.

Newer Toyota Camrys are equipped with a bell that warns you to put on your seat belt before starting the car. Some people find it annoying and wish to turn off the chiming. There are instructions in the owners manual on how to do this. You dont need any special tools to turn off this seat belt warning and it will only take a few moments of your time.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the on position, but do not start the engine.

2

Look for a tiny knob on the instrument panel and press it to toggle between the odometer reading and the trip odometer reading. Keep pressing the knob until you see "ODO." Turn off the vehicle.

3

Turn the ignition on but dont crank the engine. Pull the tiny knob out for 10 seconds. While still holding the knob out, put on your seat belt and keep holding the knob for another 5 seconds then release it. The instrument panel will now read "B off."

4

Repeat the above procedure to turn the seat belt warning chime back on.

A carburetor is a device responsible for regulating the amount of fuel and air inside the cylinders of a motorcycle engine in order to maximize performance. The carburetor is a very expensive device to replace and it can become damaged from fuel clogs and mechanical failure. It requires regular maintenance to maintain proper function. If a carburetor starts to have problems, troubleshooting it becomes a necessity to keep the motorcycle in prime running condition.

Instructions

1

Start the motorcycle. If your motorcycle was running fine the last time it was used but then sat for an extended period of time (during the winter for example), the fuel may have broken down and gummed up the carburetor. The most common symptom of this is that the bike will not start properly after sitting for an extended period of time. If this is the case, you will need to remove and clean the carburetor.

2

Run the motorcycle at a low RPM if you are able to. If the bike has trouble running at low RPM when the idle is at 1/4 throttle, the pilot system or the slide valve is the likely culprit.

3

Increase the RPM gradually if the bike is still running. The engine is directly affected by the throttle of the carburetor. If the engine starts having problems between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, the jet needle is more likely the problem and may need replacement. If the problem is happening at more than 3/4 throttle, the main fuel jet in the carburetor is the most likely issue.

Hydraulic cylinders are designed to extend and retract with pressure from hydraulic fluid. The hydraulic cylinders are much easier to work with because they connect to the power source with hydraulic hoses. Old style cranes used cables to operate. Today cranes, back hoes and other machines are hydraulically driven. Hydraulic cylinders are used on farm equipment. It is a hydraulic cylinder that raises and lowers the boom into the truck running along side a potato harvester. There are several reasons why you dont want a hydraulic cylinder to go in. One reason may be when transporting equipment on the road.

Instructions

1

Insert two On-Off ball valves, one in each line of the cylinder that you want to hold in the out position. Apply thread tape to the fitting of the ball valves when installing them. Use a wrench to tighten all the fittings to avoid any leaks.

2

Cycle the cylinder in and out several times before extending it to the length you want it at. The cycling is done by running the cylinder in and out, which will bleed any air that entered out of the cylinder and lines when you installed the ball valves.

3

Set the cylinder at the extended out length you desire and turn the levers 90-degrees to shut off both ball valves to prevent fluid movement in the cylinder. This method works well as long as the cylinder does not leak. If this method is not suitable for your situation, you have a different method to follow.

4

Measure the distance between the top of the cylinder rod and the cylinder housing. The cylinder rod is the chrome rod that goes in and out of the hydraulic cylinder.

5

Cut two pieces of angle iron the same length as the measurement of the cylinder rod. Place the angle pieces over the extended chrome cylinder rod and between the cylinder housing and end. Use the muffler clamps to clamp the angle on the top and bottom. The clamps hold the angle pieces in place so that the cylinder rod is prevented from going back in.

V-belts have a cross section resembling a "V." The narrow end of the "V" taper sits inside the groove of a taper wheel. This increases the contact area between the pulley and the belt. During use the belt stretches and will eventually break. Installing a correctly sized replacement belt between the pulleys will ensure the belt sits under proper tension. A simple method for determining the length of a V-belt exists that allows you to avoid using a complex mathematical formula.

Instructions

1

Wipe the inside groove of the pulleys clean with a rag.

2

Pull a length of 1/8-inch diameter twine around the two pulleys to be connected by the V-belt. Pull the twine tight. Ensure the ends of the twine overlap by 4 inches.

3

Draw a line across the overlapped twine with a permanent marker. Make sure the line is visible on both pieces of twine. Remove the twine from the pulleys.

4

Set the marked twine flat on a firm surface. Hold one end of the twine on the end of a tape measure. Pull the twine taught while it sits next to the tape measure. Read the dimension where the second mark on the twine falls on the tape measure to determine the length of the V-belt.

Side post battery terminals are common in some car models, such as General Motors. When corrosion builds up on one or both of the terminals, it can cause interference in the flow of electricity to the vehicle. The result will be a car that wont start. You can prevent this from happening with the simple repair of removing the corrosion from the battery terminal post. Always be sure to follow any additional instructions provided by your vehicles manufacturer.

Instructions

1

Put on the safety glasses and gloves.

2

Unscrew the battery cable clamps from the side battery posts terminal with the adjustable socket wrench. Start with the negative battery cable first, then the positive battery cable. Secure the cables out of the way so they will not flop back and come into contact with the terminal posts.

3

Apply the detergent or a paste made from baking soda and water to each battery terminal post. Scrub with the wire brush to remove corrosion.

4

Rinse with water, taking care not to get any water in the battery vents. Dry thoroughly with a clean, lint-free cloth.

5

Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to each of the side battery terminal posts.

6

Reattach the positive cable to the positive post, first with your hand and then with the socket wrench. Repeat to reattach the negative cable to the negative post.

A 1994 Ford F450 truck uses a high-pressure fuel pump thats part of an in-tank reservoir assembly, or ITR. The ITR also includes a shuttle selector valve, a supply check valve and a venture jet pump. Your fuel pump must be compatible with your trucks specific engine. The engine in a 1994 Ford F450 may be a 7.3L Diesel, 7.3L Turbo Diesel or 7.5L engine. All versions of the 1994 Ford F450 use electronic fuel injection.

Instructions

1

Drain the fuel tank and disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel pump from the electrical connector, and clean the dirt from the area around the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump.

2

Place a wood dowel against the tabs of the fuel pumps locking ring and hammer the locking ring loose. Turn the locking ring counterclockwise to loosen it. Pull the fuel pump out and remove the gasket from the groove in the fuel tank.

3

Put the new fuel pump gasket into the matching groove of the fuel tank, and place the fuel pump into the fuel tank. Keep the fuel pump and gasket in place as you align the tabs on the locking ring with the matching slots in the fuel tank.

4

Turn the fuel pumps locking ring clockwise until it stops against the tab of the retainer ring. Ensure the gasket for the fuel pump is still in place.

5

Connect the fuel lines and the electrical connector to the fuel pump. Install the fuel tank and connect the cable to the batterys negative terminal. Fill the fuel tank.

Occasionally, you may need to remove the steering wheel from a Mini Cooper in order to replace it due to the wheel having worn out or just because you want to have a different style of steering wheel. Removing the wheel is a job that can be done in less than an hour. Remove the steering wheel yourself, saving you the time and money of having a mechanic do the work for you.

Instructions

1

Unfasten the negative battery cable of the Mini Cooper from the battery post with a socket wrench before removing the steering wheel. Locate the two dimples in the steering wheel column, one on each side, just behind the wheel.

2

Slide a small screwdriver into both dimples, one at a time, and push in on the spring mechanism until you feel the airbag release from the springs. Remove the cover from the center of the steering wheel by hand.

3

Detach the wiring connectors inside the steering wheel with a small screwdriver, prying up on the clip to unlock it and lifting the plug out of the socket. Locate the three trim pieces around the inside of the wheel and unfasten the Torx screws behind the steering wheel that are securing the pieces with a Torx screwdriver.

4

Lift the trim pieces off the steering wheel and detach the electrical connectors on each trim piece by hand, setting the trim pieces out of the way. Disconnect the horn electrical wire from the steering wheel by hand.

5

Remove the steering wheel bolt in the center of the steering wheel with a socket wrench. Pull the steering wheel straight from the column by hand, threading the wires through the center of the steering wheel.

The standard engine in a 1999 Ford Mustang is a six-cylinder, 3.8-liter engine with fuel injection. The intake manifold on a car with fuel injection distributes the combustion mixture evenly to the cylinder head intakes, and is essential for optimizing the performance of the engine. The intake manifold in a 1999 Ford with a 3.8-liter engine has an upper and lower section, which you must remove separately.

Instructions

1

Place a clean, sealable container under the radiator drain and remove the drain plug with a socket wrench. Allow the coolant to drain into the container and seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-B to the pressure relief valve on the fuel supply manifold. Place the tube of the fuel pressure gauge into a container approved for gasoline and open the valve on the pressure gauge. Drain the excess fuel into the container to relieve the pressure in the fuel system.

3

Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal with a socket wrench. Remove the intake air temperature sensor and the air intake tube. Detach the cables for the cruise control and accelerator. Disconnect the bracket for the accelerator.

4

Detach the electrical connectors for the exhaust gas recirculation and vacuum regulator solenoids, if your vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the electrical wires to the spark plugs and the ignition coil. Disconnect any additional vacuum lines needed to access the lower intake manifold.

5

Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation valve from the crankcase with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation valve. Disconnect the bracket for the wiring harness of the engine control sensor and push it out of your way.

6

Remove the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel lines from the fuel supply manifold and disconnect the electrical connector for the engine coolant temperature sensor. Remove the fuel supply manifold and fuel injectors from the lower intake manifold as an assembly.

7

Disconnect the upper radiator hose and heater hose from the radiator. Remove the lower intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench.

The Ford Focus is a compact car that Ford began manufacturing for the 2000 model year in North America. The engine for a Ford Focus made before 2005 is a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine uses a timing belt instead of a timing chain, and requires you to replace the timing belt at regular intervals. The timing belt for a 2000 Ford Focus allows the crankshaft to turn the camshaft.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from inadvertently starting the engine. Disconnect the accessory drive belt and its tensioner. Remove the cover for the timing belt.

2

Loosen the lug nuts for the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel and the right splash shield with a socket wrench. Disconnect the pulley for the crankshaft.

3

Turn the timing belt clockwise so that the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets align with their respective marks on the engine.

4

Loosen the bolt for the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Turn the tensioner 1/4 turn counterclockwise with an 8mm Allen wrench. Place a 1/8 in. drill bit into the hole of the timing belt tensioner to hold the tensioner in place. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket.

5

Place the new timing belt on the crankshaft. Complete the timing belt installation by proceeding in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the drill bit from the timing belt tensioner hole to release the tensioner.

6

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two complete turns to align the timing marks once again. Tighten the bolt for the timing belt tensioner to between 15 and 22 pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Connect the crankshaft pulley and tighten its mounting bolt to between 81 and 96 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the right splash shield and right front wheel with a socket wrench.

8

Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Install the accessory drive belt and its tensioner with a socket wrench. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The base model of the 1996 Chrysler Town and Country minivan came equipped with a 3.3 liter six cylinder engine. The van included several different standard features including bucket seats, passenger seating for seven, an overhead console, cruise control, power steering, a tilt steering wheel, air conditioning, 15 inch wheels, power door locks and a trip computer. Because the Town and Country is comprised of so many different parts it can be difficult to know what repairs or changes to make. One way to troubleshoot the van is by working through general troubleshooting techniques.

Instructions

1

Look at the fuel line assembly of the Town and Country if you smell gas fumes inside the passenger compartment of the van while you are driving. There could be a loose or damaged fuel line or fuel line connector. There could also be a leaky fuel filter or the fuel tank could be punctured or damaged and leaking fuel. You should also inspect the canister purge valve of the fuel system to ensure that it isnt leaking. Make sure that the carburetor and fuel injectors inside the engine are not worn, dirty or malfunctioning.

2

Check the vans M.A.P. sensor when the engine has an erratic idle. Make sure the sensor is still working properly. Find the EGR valve and look to see if it has become faulty or not too. The fuel injectors could also be dirty or worn or the idle air control valve and idle speed actuator to ensure that they are not damaged, faulty or loose. The throttle position sensor could be incorrectly connected or faulty and the fuel filter could be clogged or dirty. Be sure to also inspect the PCV valve, carburetor, exhaust valves, timing gear, fuel pump, camshaft and ignition points to determine if any of these parts needs to be repaired or replaced.

3

Look at the differential system of the Town and Country when you hear a groaning noise coming from underneath the van while you are driving. You could have a low differential fluid level. You may also have a worn or damaged differential bearing or the wrong type of differential fluid inside the system. If you hear the groaning noise coming from the engine compartment while you are turning your steering wheel, look at the steering pump and power steering cylinder to ensure that they are not faulty. You should also check the power steering hose to make sure that it has been correctly installed and is not leaking.

Ford started production of the Ford Focus in 1999. The models made from 1999 to 2007 were the first generation of this series. The standard engine in the 2003 Focus has four cylinders and a displacement of 2.0 liters. The timing belt on this vehicle synchronizes the movements between the crankshaft and the camshaft. The tension on the timing belt is a critical factor in its installation.

Instructions

1

Open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with socket wrench. Turn the drive belt tensioner clockwise to reduce the tension on the accessory drive belt. Remove the drive belt. Disconnect the tensioner with a socket wrench. Remove the timing belt cover.

2

Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench and disconnect the right splash shield. Remove the pulley for the crankshaft.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Loosen the tensioner bolt on the timing belt with a socket wrench. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise by 1/4 turn with an 8mm Allen wrench. Place a 1/8-inch drill bit into the hole on the timing belt tensioner to hold the belt tensioner in place. Remove the timing belt.

4

Install the new timing belt onto the crankshaft by proceeding in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the drill bit from the hole in the timing belt tensioner. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two turns so that the timing marks align once again. Torque the tensioner bolt for the timing belt to between 15 and 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Install the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench and tighten its mounting bolt to between 81 and 96 foot-pounds. Connect the right splash shield and the right front wheel. Lower the vehicle and replace the timing belt cover. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and mount the drive belt. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.