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Stray rocks flying up from the road can easily chip the paint on a car. Ignoring rock chips leaves you more than the unsightly nicks; the chipped areas can get bigger and start to rust, too, leading to greater problems down the road. Fixing the chips is, however, a task that is neither onerous nor exceedingly time consuming. The sooner you fix the chips, the better your car will look and the more protected from rust it will be.

Instructions

1

Clean off the area of the car that has the rock chips in it. Use soap and water to remove debris. Allow time for the car to dry.

2

Sand down the chipped area with sand paper that is 1500- to 2000-grit. This will help to remove any loose paint from the chipped area. It will also help the paint to adhere to the area.

3

Wipe off the sanded area with a damp, lint-free cloth. Using the lint-free cloth will help to make sure that no threads or cloth get stuck in the chipped area.

4

Apply paint that matches your car color. Paint stores can match the color using a small chip, or you can call your car manufacturer to find out what colors were used on your car in the year that it was produced. Paint the chip and paint the area around the chip as well. Allow time to dry between coats before applying another coat. Three to four coats is typically sufficient.

5

Sand down the area. Use sandpaper to get the paint in the chipped area level with the rest of the car surface. Avoid sanding any area to which you have not applied paint, as those areas do not have the extra paint applied that you need to sand down.

6

Apply rubbing compound and buff the area with a soft rag. This will help the paint to blend in better and have a polish to it.

7

Apply wax or polish to protect the new paint.

Defective vehicles that are not able to be repaired are known as "lemons." Vehicle manufacturers must repair, und or replace them in the state of Minnesota.

Duty to Repair

Dealers must repair the vehicle if it fails to conform to express warranties, regardless of the expiration of the warranty or the passage of two years after original delivery date.

Duty to Refund or Replace

Dealers in Minnesota must either replace the vehicle with one of similar value, or und the purchase price within 30 days. The amount is reduced by the lower of ten cents per every mile driven, or ten percent of the original purchase price. Buyers may opt for unds.

Presumption of Non-conformity

If the vehicles braking or steering completely fails to operate, the vehicle is presumed to fail its warranty conformity. The failure must be likely to cause death or serious bodily harm.

Required Consumer Language

Lemon law in Minnesota dictates that buyers must notify dealers, in writing, of any vehicle defects. They must allow the dealer the chance to repair the vehicle, and may submit claims to arbitration.

Hydraulic cylinders are designed to extend and retract with pressure from hydraulic fluid. The hydraulic cylinders are much easier to work with because they connect to the power source with hydraulic hoses. Old style cranes used cables to operate. Today cranes, back hoes and other machines are hydraulically driven. Hydraulic cylinders are used on farm equipment. It is a hydraulic cylinder that raises and lowers the boom into the truck running along side a potato harvester. There are several reasons why you dont want a hydraulic cylinder to go in. One reason may be when transporting equipment on the road.

Instructions

1

Insert two On-Off ball valves, one in each line of the cylinder that you want to hold in the out position. Apply thread tape to the fitting of the ball valves when installing them. Use a wrench to tighten all the fittings to avoid any leaks.

2

Cycle the cylinder in and out several times before extending it to the length you want it at. The cycling is done by running the cylinder in and out, which will bleed any air that entered out of the cylinder and lines when you installed the ball valves.

3

Set the cylinder at the extended out length you desire and turn the levers 90-degrees to shut off both ball valves to prevent fluid movement in the cylinder. This method works well as long as the cylinder does not leak. If this method is not suitable for your situation, you have a different method to follow.

4

Measure the distance between the top of the cylinder rod and the cylinder housing. The cylinder rod is the chrome rod that goes in and out of the hydraulic cylinder.

5

Cut two pieces of angle iron the same length as the measurement of the cylinder rod. Place the angle pieces over the extended chrome cylinder rod and between the cylinder housing and end. Use the muffler clamps to clamp the angle on the top and bottom. The clamps hold the angle pieces in place so that the cylinder rod is prevented from going back in.

The standard engine in a 1999 Ford Mustang is a six-cylinder, 3.8-liter engine with fuel injection. The intake manifold on a car with fuel injection distributes the combustion mixture evenly to the cylinder head intakes, and is essential for optimizing the performance of the engine. The intake manifold in a 1999 Ford with a 3.8-liter engine has an upper and lower section, which you must remove separately.

Instructions

1

Place a clean, sealable container under the radiator drain and remove the drain plug with a socket wrench. Allow the coolant to drain into the container and seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-B to the pressure relief valve on the fuel supply manifold. Place the tube of the fuel pressure gauge into a container approved for gasoline and open the valve on the pressure gauge. Drain the excess fuel into the container to relieve the pressure in the fuel system.

3

Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal with a socket wrench. Remove the intake air temperature sensor and the air intake tube. Detach the cables for the cruise control and accelerator. Disconnect the bracket for the accelerator.

4

Detach the electrical connectors for the exhaust gas recirculation and vacuum regulator solenoids, if your vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the electrical wires to the spark plugs and the ignition coil. Disconnect any additional vacuum lines needed to access the lower intake manifold.

5

Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation valve from the crankcase with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation valve. Disconnect the bracket for the wiring harness of the engine control sensor and push it out of your way.

6

Remove the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel lines from the fuel supply manifold and disconnect the electrical connector for the engine coolant temperature sensor. Remove the fuel supply manifold and fuel injectors from the lower intake manifold as an assembly.

7

Disconnect the upper radiator hose and heater hose from the radiator. Remove the lower intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench.

The Ford F series is a line of full-size pickup trucks in continuous production since 1948, with the F-150 models being the most popular. The 1988 Ford F-150 has an early form of fuel injection that uses a low-pressure electric fuel pump. The replacement of the fuel pump itself is a relatively simple task, but accessing the fuel pump requires you to remove the fuel tank. The great majority of the work in replacing the fuel pump on a 1988 Ford F-150 is the removal and installation of the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle and turn off the ignition. Open and secure the hood. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and remove the fuel tank filler cap.

2

Remove the valve cap to the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line and connect the T80L-9974-A pressure gauge to the relief valve. Place the end of the hose for the pressure gauge into a gasoline-approved container. Open the pressure gauge valve. Drain the fuel from the fuel system into the container. Remove the pressure gauge and replace the valve cap on the relief valve.

3

Drain the fuel from the tank. Disconnect the wiring from the fuel-sending unit and the fuel line from the fuel tank. Remove the air relief tube from the fuel tank. Loosen the clamp on the filler neck hose and detach the filler neck from the fuel tank. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel tanks retaining strap. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

4

Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel-sending unit. Clean the fuel tank around the fuel sending unit and disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel sending unit. Turn the locking ring of the fuel sending unit counterclockwise with a hammer and wood dowel. Remove the locking ring and disconnect the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket on the fuel tank.

5

Put the new gasket into the groove on the tank. Install the new fuel-sending unit to the fuel tank while keeping the gasket in place. Align the tabs on the locking ring with the slots on the fuel tank and turn the locking ring clockwise until it is against the retainer ring tab.

6

Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring to the fuel sending unit. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the fuel tanks restraining strap to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Chrysler sells a line of Ram pickup trucks under its Dodge brand. The 1998 models belonged to the second generation of Rams, which were in production from 1994 to 2001. The procedure for replacing the water pump in a 1998 Dodge truck depends primarily on its engine. The most common engine in this vehicle is an 8-cylinder 5.2-liter engine that runs on gasoline. The water pump is accessible from the engine compartment and is located in front of the engine block.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable on the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from inadvertently starting the engine during the water pump replacement. Place a container under the drain hole for the radiator and remove the radiator drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the accessory drive belt with a socket wrench, and detach the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Remove the heater hose from the water pump if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Detach the upper radiator hose from the radiator with a socket wrench. Disconnect the cooling fan assembly from the engine block, including the fan shroud. Remove the bolts for the water pump pulley and detach the pulley from the engine block.

4

Remove the mounting bolt for the heater hose pipe with a socket wrench. Release the clamp for the bypass hose on the water pump and detach the bypass hose. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump, and remove the water pump.

5

Install the new water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the bypass hose to the water pump and attach the clamp for the hose. Apply sealant to the threads on the heater hose pipe. Connect the heater hose pipe, and tighten the mounting bolt to 12 foot-pounds. Spin the water pump to ensure the impeller for the water pump does not contact the timing chain case.

6

Connect the pulley for the water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the cooling fan assembly and connect the hoses to the radiator. Attach the accessory drive belt. Fill the radiator with coolant and check for leaks in the cooling system.

Theres nothing wrong with a locked-up torque converter; as a matter of fact, lock-up torque converters have been making automatic transmissions more efficient for decades. Youll only encounter brief periods during your driving cycle where converter lock-up is not beneficial.

Converter Operation

Torque converters are fluid couplers. A turbine fan attached to the outer case (which is bolted to the engine) pushes transmission fluid through a matching turbine on the transmission input shaft. The engine doesnt push enough fluid when idling to engage the transmission turbine. As rpm rises, that fluid will begin to push against and spin the transmission-side turbine, engaging it and moving the car.

The Problem

Because there was no direct connection between the engine and transmission, a non-lock-up converter will always get worse fuel mileage than a manual transmission, which uses a clutch.

Lock-Up Function

A lock-up converter uses a clutch pack very similar to those inside the transmission itself to lock the converter case to the transmission input shaft. At about 25 mph, the computer sends a signal to an electronic actuator inside the transmission to engage the clutch pack and lock the drive line together.

A diesel engine is an option for many Dodge vehicles, especially heavy trucks. An eight-cylinder 5.9-liter diesel engine is available for the 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 3/4 ton pickup. This engine uses fuel injection and requires an injection pump to keep the fuel under pressure. The procedure for replacing the diesel injection pump is the same for all full-size Dodge trucks made from 2001 to 2005.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Remove the throttle linkage and its bracket. Disconnect the fuel drain manifold, and detach the fuel lines from the injection pump. Remove the fuel air control tube and the connector for the fuel shut-off valve from the injection pump. Disconnect the support bracket and oil fill tube from the injector pump.

2

Put a shop rag over the opening in the injector pumps gear cover. Remove the gear retaining nut and washer for the injector pump with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench until the top dead center pin on the crankshaft drops into the gear timing hole. Pull the pin from the gear timing hole.

3

Remove the lock screw and its washer from the injection pump with a socket wrench. Tighten the lock screw to 22 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench, then push the drive gear for the injection pump from the drive shaft. Disconnect the mounting nuts for the injection pump with a socket wrench. Remove the injection pump from the crankcase.

4

Install the new injection pump and tighten the mounting nuts by hand, ensuring that the pump can move freely within its slots. Connect the drive gear to the drive shaft with its retaining nut and washer. Tighten the nut to between 11 and 15 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Rotate the injection pump counterclockwise to take up gear lash. Tighten its mounting nuts to 18 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the support bracket for the injection pump. Tighten the nut for the pump drive gear to 48 ft. lbs.

6

Connect the oil filler tube and connector valve for the fuel shut-off valve to the injector pump. Attach the fuel lines to the injector pump. Install the fuel drain manifold and throttle linkage with a socket wrench. Connect the cables for the negative battery terminals.

7

Loosen the bleed bolt on the fuel rail with a socket wrench. Push the primer button on the fuel transfer pump until the fuel coming from the bleed screw no longer has air bubbles. Tighten the bleed screw to 72 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

If your sunroof is leaking, there are steps you can take to attempt to repair the problem on your own. However, if these steps dont resolve the problem or if there is a different problem with your sunroof you should seek the assistance of a professional repair person. A stuck sunroof requires removing part of the headliner and a cracked sunroof requires removing the glass and replacing the seal. These are all jobs best left to a professional so that you dont cause additional leaks.

Instructions

1

Clean the closed sunroof with mild detergent and wipe clean with the cloth.

2

Open the sunroof fully. Locate the drain tubes in each of the four corners. Blow out each tube with the compressed air canister.

3

Pour a small amount of water down each drain tube. If any of the water backs up, you have a clog. Untwist the wire hanger and straighten it out so you have a long pipe or just use the wired pipe cleaner. Gently insert the wire into the drain tube opening and attempt to remove the clog. Do not force the wire and do not scrape the tubing.

4

Clean the trough in the sunroof tracks with the compressed air canister or the detergent and cloth.

5

Inspect the seal surrounding the sunroof tracks. If there are any cracks or if there is significant wear, take the car to a sunroof repair shop.

Replacing the floor boards in your trailer is a necessary periodic maintenance task that will help keep your trailer in top condition. While plywood and standard lumber can be used to replace trailer floors, using treated lumber is the best way to create a lasting repair. Treated lumber survives the elements and lasts much longer than traditional lumber, but it may warp. Take steps to cure it before installation.

Instructions

1

Place 2-by-4 runners, spaced 24 inches apart and covering the length of the treated lumber, on your garage floor or driveway. Stack the treated lumber, wide face down, on top of and perpendicular to the runners. Lay a piece of plywood on top of the lumber, and add cinder blocks or bricks to weigh it down. Cover the stack with a tarp, if it will be stored outside. Allow four weeks for the lumber to dry, then uncover and unstack.

2

Draw a sketch of your trailers floor, including width and length of each piece. Measure and mark the position of bolt holes in the original boards. Unbolt the floor boards with an impact gun by loosening and removing the nuts from the underside of the bolts, underneath the trailer. Tap each bolt upward to with a hammer for easy removal.

3

Pull out the bolts from above with the claw end of the hammer. Save at least one for comparison. Purchase bolts of the same size and thickness to replace the original hardware for best results.

4

Measure and cut one board for each piece in the original floor, using a circular saw. Make it the same length and width as the original, and bore bolt holes using the original board as a template. Use a drill bit the same thickness as the bolts.

5

Install the new floor boards, starting at the left front corner of the trailer and working across first and then back. Drop a bolt through each hole in each floor board and down through the bolt holes in the trailer floor. Tap each head with a hammer to set the carriage head into the lumber to prevent it spinning.

6

Thread a washer and bolt from below onto each bolt as you go and tighten by hand. Install all of the boards in this fashion. Once all boards are installed, tighten the nuts with an impact gun. Double-check each nut to make sure it remained tight, and snug down any nuts that require it.

You can fix the Service Engine Soon light on your 1999 Taurus yourself at home using an OBD scan tool. OBD stands for On-Board Diagnostics system. This is the computer that stores the trouble codes sent to it by sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. Its job is to indicate what is going on in your vehicle and when it needs routine servicing. When you see the Service Engine Soon light flash on your instrument panel, you should have your Taurus serviced before you attempt to reset the system and turn off the light.

Instructions

1

Find the open port that is next to the fuse panel on the drivers side of the dashboard.

2

Plug the OBD scan tool into the open port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn the car on. Do not start the engine.

4

Look for the "erase" button on the scan tool and press it. Look on the instrument panel for the Service Engine Soon light to go out. Once it does, remove the scan tool from the port and turn off the car.

The exhaust gas recirculation valve is an essential part of your engines emissions system. Its job is to recirculate a precisely measured amount of exhaust gases back into the engine, thereby decreasing unwanted nitrogen oxide emissions. On older model vehicles, the EGR valve is typically mechanically controlled. With newer model vehicles, the EGR valve is most commonly electronically controlled.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, using the socket wrench and the appropriate sized socket.

2

Locate the ERG valve on your engine. It will either be bolted to the intake manifold or the exhaust manifold depending on your 3.8 engine.

3

Disconnect the air supply hose, vacuum hose and/or electrical connections from the EGR valve. You might need the screwdrivers for this step.

4

Remove all the bolts that mount the EGR valve to the intake manifold/exhaust manifold, using the socket wrench with the appropriate size socket.

5

Remove the old EGR valve and gasket.

6

Install the new gasket and EGR valve after making sure the mounting surfaces are clean. You may use the putty knife for this step.

7

Attach all hoses, wiring and bolts that were previously disconnected.

8

Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery, and then take the vehicle out on a test drive.

Removing the manual transmission from your 1993 Ford Ranger is not a difficult task with the proper preparation, the right tools and a competent helper. The Ranger is identical to the Mazda pick-up so you will need both standard and metric tools because the parts are of mixed origin. You should also have plenty of shop towels or rags to clean up any spills. A handy option to have is an inexpensive transmission plug that can be purchased. You can use a rag instead. Choose a work area that is flat, solid and free from obstructions. Safety first.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable. Put the transmission in neutral. Drain the transmission. Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle high enough to work underneath. Support the truck on jack stands. Test the stability by trying to shake the vehicle. If there is any movement, re-set the stands. Release the emergency brake.

2

Locate the factory paint mark at the rear of the driveshaft and corresponding mark on the front of the differential. If you cannot see the marks, make your own using a scribe or some indelible method. These will help you reinstall the shaft and maintain its balance. Remove the nuts securing the rear of the shaft and slide the front spline out of the transmission. Use the plug or a rag to prevent leakage.

3

If you have 4WD, remove the transfer case. If you have a V-6, take out the exhaust. Disconnect the hydraulic clutch line, the speedometer cable and the electrical connectors. Label all connections for later installation. Remove the starter. Place the floor jack with a block of wood to protect the oil pan under the engine. Put a little upward pressure on the engine to provide support.

4

Place the transmission jack under the transmission and put a slight amount of pressure to support the unit. Disconnect the bolts from the bell housing to the engine. Remove the rear transmission mount. Remove the cross member. Simultaneously release pressure on the transmission jack as you withdraw the assembly toward the rear. Work slowly to free the transmission and gain enough clearance for the input shaft to clear the clutch pressure plate.

The 1995 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI engine has one oxygen sensor that detects the oxygen saturation in the exhaust and relays the information to the engines computer to regulate the fuel consumption. When a sensor fails, the "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light may illuminate on your dash. If the light is on and your fuel mileage has significantly decreased, replace the sensor as soon as possible to save needless expense.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the Bonneville. Locate the oxygen sensor threaded into the exhaust manifold near the front of the engine compartment.

2

Pull the electrical connection apart to disconnect it from the sensor. Remove the sensor with a wrench.

3

Coat the threads of the new sensor with electrical anti-seize compound. Install it by hand to avoid cross-threading. Torque the sensor to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

4

Push the electrical connector together until it clicks. Lower the hood.

Headlight maintenance is an important part of driver safety, and failure to keep the headlights of a vehicle in working order may result in serious injury to the driver. However, replacing a headlight is usually simple. This is especially true for a 2006 VW Beetle.

Instructions

1

Open the hood.

2

Loosen the plastic housing surrounding the headlights by pushing back on the black lever above the headlights.

3

Remove the plastic housing.

4

Disconnect the electrical connector by clicking the tabs together and pulling it out gently.

5

Remove the headlamp unit from the vehicle.

6

Remove the black plastic tab on the back of the headlamp unit by pulling on it.

7

Remove the side clips on the headlamp unit and remove the wire clip securing the headlight bulb into place.

8

Pull the burned out bulb from the headlamp unit. Use a paper towel to install the replacement bulb by pushing it into the headlamp unit.

9

Reattach the wire clips and the side clips.

10

Lock the black plastic tab onto the back of the headlamp unit.

11

Reconnect the electrical connector by plugging it into the headlamp unit.

12

Place the unit back into the vehicle and reattach the plastic housing. Close the vehicles hood.

The front wheel hub assembly on a 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue contains both the bearing, hub, and wheel studs. This wheel hub assembly is non-repairable and must be replaced as an entire unit. Symptoms of a faulty hub assembly include a noticeable vibration that increases with vehicle speed, grinding or buzzing when turning, and howling or whining at speeds above 45 miles per hour. The hub assembly is secured to the steering knuckle with three steel bolts. These bolts must be replaced when installing the new hub assembly.

Instructions

Removal

1

Apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Remove the hub cap on the affected side by loosening the hub cap locking caps with a 19 mm socket and a ratchet. Break the lug nuts loose with a 19 mm lug nut wrench.

2

Raise the vehicle with an automotive jack and support it with two jack stands, one on each side. Check to make sure the vehicle is securely supported before proceeding.

3

Remove the lug nuts with a 19 mm lug nut wrench and remove the tire. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal and loosen the axle shaft nut one revolution with a deep-well axle nut socket and a ratchet.

4

Place a C-clamp over the brake caliper so one end of the clamps is over the rear side of the caliper and the other end of the clamp is over the outer brake pad. Loosen the caliper bleeder screw with a flare nut wrench, then tighten the C-clamp to compress the caliper piston. Tighten the bleeder screw immediately after compressing the piston.

5

Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the knuckle and pry the caliper and bracket off of the rotor together. Tie the caliper and bracket assembly to the strut spring with a piece or wire.

6

Remove the brake rotor. Place a pry bar in between the wheel studs to hold the hub still, then remove the axle shaft nut. Loosen the three bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle that hold the hub assembly in place with a ratchet and metric socket. Install a two-jaw puller onto the hub flange. Center the puller screw on the end of the axle shaft. Tighten the puller screw to force the splined portion of the axle shaft out of the hub assembly.

7

Remove the puller from the hub assembly. Remove the bolts that hold the hub assembly to the steering knuckle and remove the hub assembly from the vehicle.

Installation

8

Clean the circular hub assembly mating surface on the steering with a wire brush to remove any excess corrosion. Apply a light coating of grease to the axle splines. Slide the axle into the new hub assembly and rotate it until the three mounting holes align with the holes in the steering knuckle.

9

Reinstall three new hub assembly mounting bolts with a ratchet and metric socket. Torque the bolts to 96 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Set the brake rotor into position on the new hub and install two lug nuts to hold it in place. Slide the brake caliper and bracket into position over the rotor and reinstall the brake caliper bracket bolts. Tighten the bracket bolts to 137 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Have an assistant hold a pry bar in between the axle nut studs to immobilize the hub, and then install a new axle nut on the axle spindle and torque it to 118 foot-pounds. Double-check to make sure that the brake caliper, bracket, hub assembly, and rotor are properly installed before proceeding.

11

Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts using a lug nut wrench. Lift the vehicle off of the jack stands with an automotive jack and set it on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and reinstall the hub cap.

12

Pump the brakes until the pedal firms up; because the piston was driven back into the caliper bore, you must pump the brakes to move the piston forward into contact with the brake pads before operating the vehicle. Road test the vehicle to ensure that hub assembly and brakes operate properly.

A camshaft sensor notifies a vehicles ignition module so it knows which of the engines cylinders is properly positioned to be fired. The location of camshaft sensors can vary. Having information on the location, as well as other facts regarding camshaft sensors, can benefit vehicle owners.

Location

Because a camshaft sensor may be magnetic, it will often be found positioned directly on the timing cover located over the gear of the camshaft. It can also be located either inside a special type of housing that takes the place of the distributor, or inside the distributor itself.

Functions

Some vehicle engines have distributorless ignition systems. When this is the case, a camshaft sensors role is to notify the motors control module of the position of the camshaft as well as the crankshaft. The information taken from the camshaft sensor is then used to assist with proper ignition timing.

Diagnosis

Many vehicles model year 1995 or newer can be checked for camshaft sensor problems using a scan tool. Once it is plugged in, the scan tool reveals certain fault codes if there is a problem. For example, fault code P0342 indicates low input in the camshaft sensors circuit.

The carburetor on a vehicle is used for the internal combustion inside the engine. This works by mixing the fuel with air to create the combustion that propels the engine while driving. A European Motor Parts Incorporated carburetor kit allows you to replace any worn or leaking parts in your carb. These kits can be used with everything from a VW Beetle to a 78 Chevy. If you would like to rebuild your carburetor with an EMPI kit, you can do it with little hassle. You dont have to be an auto mechanic to rebuild your carburetor; you can do it yourself even if you have minimal knowledge of the task.

Instructions

1

Buy an EMPI carburetor kit. This can be found at local auto parts stores or through an online outlet. EMPI kits come with all of the rubber seals and gaskets that you need to rebuild your carb.

2

Put on safety glasses and gloves to keep grease and dirt off of your hands and out of your eyes. Remove the carburetor from your vehicle. Consult your service manual if you do not know how to remove the unit, as the process can vary from car to car.

3

Look over the diagram that came with your EMPI kit. This diagram will vary depending on the carburetor kit specific to your vehicle. Use a ratchet to remove the accelerator pump from your carburetor. Remove the cover from your carb and then remove the choke linkages as well. All of these parts are labeled on the diagram that comes with your EMPI kit.

4

Use a stiff-bristled toothbrush and cleaner to remove all debris from the parts on your carburetor. Use the EMPI kit diagram to replace the broken parts on your carb. Put the carburetor back together and then reinstall the carburetor in your car.

The 1998 Chevy Blazer has three oxygen (O2) sensors. Two are located up on the front Y-pipe bolted to the V-6 engines manifold. These two sensors detect the fuel-to-air mix in the exhaust and transmit that information to the powertrain control module (PCM). From there, the PCM makes adjustments to achieve the lowest emissions possible while still running properly. The last O2 sensor is located after the catalytic converter. This sensors job is to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake to lock the rear wheels.

2

Open the hood to the 1998 Chevy Blazer to allow some light down into the engine compartment. This will be helpful when under the vehicle to replace the front oxygen sensor(s). If you are replacing the rear sensor, opening the hood is not necessary.

3

Lift one front side of the Blazer up high enough to rest it on a jack stand and then lift the other side and rest that side on a jack stand.

4

Put on the safety glasses and crawl underneath the Blazer to locate the oxygen sensor(s) being replaced. One is located on the left-side Y-pipe up near the manifold connection, the other is on the right-side Y-pipe near the manifold and the rear sensor is located in the catalytic converter pipe just behind the shell of the converter.

5

Unlock the wire harness plug from the O2 sensor plug. Use the small screwdriver to press inward and release the lock while pulling the O2 sensor plug and wire away from the wire harness plug.

6

Spray penetrating oil around the threaded connection of the O2 sensor where it screws into the O2 sensor port of the exhaust piping. Allow the oil a few minutes to soak in.

7

Thread the O2 sensor wire through the closed end of the 22 mm wrench and then place the closed end of the wrench onto the sensors hex-head. Turn the wrench to the left (counterclockwise) to remove it from the port. Remove the sensor.

8

Inspect the threads of the replacement sensor. Most will come with a light coating of special anti-seize compound already on the threads. Some O2 sensor manufacturers will provide a small tube inside the box. If applying the compound, be sure to avoid getting the compound on the thimble-tip of the sensor. Only place a small amount on the threads of the sensor.

9

Thread the sensor into the port by hand to avoid crossing the threads of the sensor. Tighten the sensor with the wrench after threading the wire through the closed end again. Only tighten the sensor snugly. Over-tightening the sensor risks stripping the threads of the sensor and/or possibly damaging the threads to the sensor port.

10

Connect the replacement sensor wire plug to the wire harness plug before crawling out from under the Blazer with the tools and old sensor(s) and lowering the vehicle.

If the thermostat in the 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan malfunctions, the engine may not warm up properly and you may not be able to heat the cabin of the vehicle. This is annoying for the driver and passengers, especially if the thermostat fails in the winter. If the thermostat fails, replace the thermostat as quickly as possible to prevent extended use of the vehicle without proper engine heating.

Instructions

1

Drain two gallons of radiator fluid from the radiator via the petcock on the bottom of the radiator. You can reuse the fluid later so use a clean container.

2

Locate the thermostat by following the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the housing on the engine.

3

Pry the clamp off the hose with a pair of pliers. Pull the hose off the housing.

4

Remove the bolts that secure the housing to the Caravans engine with a socket and ratchet. Pull the housing off the engine.

5

Pull the thermostat out of the engine. Remove and discard the thermostat gasket.

6

Clean the surface of the thermostat housing and the engine with a clean towel.

7

Install the new gasket. Put the new thermostat into the hole.

8

Place the thermostat housing on top of the gasket. Thread the bolts into the housing with your fingers. Tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet.

9

Slide the hose onto the housing. Secure the hose with the clamp.

10

Pour the radiator fluid back into the radiator.