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Nothing can be more frustrating than a broken-off bolt on your vehicles exhaust manifold. Not only is this putting stress on the rest of the attaching bolts for the manifold and the manifold itself, dangerous carbon monoxide could be escaping from the manifold and working its way into the passenger compartment. It is very important that you correct a broken exhaust manifold bolt from a mechanical as well as a safety standpoint.

Instructions

1

Use penetrating fluid on all of the exhaust manifold bolts, including the broken one. Let the penetrating fluid work in for several hours.

2

Loosen the remaining exhaust manifold bolts. Give the bolts another dose of penetrating fluid if one or more bolts still will not budge. Allow the fluid to soak in for an hour or so. Apply some heat with a propane torch if you still have any stuck bolts. Concentrate the heat onto the center of the stubborn bolt until it is red hot. Allow the bolt to cool then loosen and remove it.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold to reach the broken bolt. Try using vise grips or an easy-out tool to twist the bolt out if part of the bolt is protruding from the engine block. Drill the bolt out if it is broken off flush with the engine block. Use a drill bit the same diameter as one of the exhaust manifold bolts without the threads.

4

Run a tap into the hole that is the same size as the exhaust manifold bolts to clean out any remaining remnants of the broken piece. Tap the remaining manifold bolt holes while you are at it to ensure the bolts will thread back in smoothly.

5

Replace the broken bolt with one of the same size and strength as the original. Take one of the good bolts to an auto parts or hardware store to make sure you get the correct replacement. Clean up the rust on the threads of the original bolts that you are going to reuse. Use a wire brush or a wire wheel installed on a bench grinder for this task.

6

Scrape off any remaining gasket material from the engine block and the exhaust manifold mounting surfaces with a gasket scraper or a putty knife. Install a new exhaust manifold gasket between the exhaust manifold and the engine block. Run in the manifold bolts finger tight. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench. Find the torque specifications for your specific model in a shop manual or from your car dealers service department.

7

Start your vehicle and check for exhaust leaks.

When a transmission is working properly, gears shift smoothly to drive, reverse or park a vehicle. However, sometimes problems occur resulting in a transmission slipping.

Cause

One of the main causes of a slipping transmission is leaking fluid. Transmission fluid can leak from places such as the driveshaft seals, the torque converter or the pan gasket of the transmission. If the fluid gets really low, the transmission could fail to work altogether.

Check

A dipstick that indicates low transmission fluid levels could mean fluid is leaking. You need the engine idling with the vehicle in park as you make this check. If there is still no leak to be seen, it may be a leak in the transmission fluid cooler in your radiator.

Fix

If a leak is not the reason your transmission fluid levels are low, adding back the proper amount is a quick fix for a slipping transmission. The full mark on the dipstick is what should be used to avoid overfilling. Too much transmission fluid added can negatively affect the way a transmission functions.

You can fix the Service Engine Soon light on your 1999 Taurus yourself at home using an OBD scan tool. OBD stands for On-Board Diagnostics system. This is the computer that stores the trouble codes sent to it by sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. Its job is to indicate what is going on in your vehicle and when it needs routine servicing. When you see the Service Engine Soon light flash on your instrument panel, you should have your Taurus serviced before you attempt to reset the system and turn off the light.

Instructions

1

Find the open port that is next to the fuse panel on the drivers side of the dashboard.

2

Plug the OBD scan tool into the open port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn the car on. Do not start the engine.

4

Look for the "erase" button on the scan tool and press it. Look on the instrument panel for the Service Engine Soon light to go out. Once it does, remove the scan tool from the port and turn off the car.

Fixing a catalytic converter is a complicated process because of the laws that govern virtually every aspect of installing, maintaining and replacing catalytic converters. The Environmental Protection Agency issued regulations in 1986 that make it illegal to tamper with your vehicles catalytic converter in any way, shape or form. Any repairs made to a vehicles catalytic converter have to be performed and properly documented by a certified mechanic.

Instructions

1

Take your Tundra to an emissions testing facility or exhaust repair shop and have your catalytic converter tested. You have to be able to document that your Tundras converter has stopped working before you are legally allowed to have it replaced.

2

Make sure that your Toyota is no longer covered by the federal emissions warranty. If your 2000 Toyota Tundra does not have 80,000 miles on it yet, then Toyota is required to replace the converter at no cost to you. If your Tundra is still under warranty, take it to your nearest Toyota dealership for repairs.

3

Take the Tundra to the dealership or exhaust repair shop (if it is not already there) and provide them with documentation that the converter is bad. Legally, they are only allowed to replace your converter with a catalytic converter that is the same as the one currently installed on your Toyota. Have the shop replace the catalytic converter. Make sure the shop fills out and submits the warranty card for the new converter, as it is legally required by federal law.

4

Save all documentation relating to the converter swap. If your Tundra has a problem with the catalytic converter or fails an emissions test in the future, you may need this information to get repairs performed and avoid possible fines.

The Ford F-150 was introduced in 1975. The 1996 Ford F-150 was a 1/2 ton truck, available in both two-wheel and four-wheel drive models. The 1996 F-150 was equipped with a 4.9-liter electronic fuel injected V-6 engine in the base model. Optional engines in the 1996 F-150 included a 4.9-liter bi-fuel OHV V-6, a 5.0-liter V-8 and a 5.8-liter V-8. The drive belt on the 1996 F-150 controls the movement of several engine parts that are vital to the life of the engine, as well as the charging system and cooling system parts.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood on the F-150. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the radiator shroud mounting bolts from the top of the radiator, then pull the radiator shroud upward and out of the engine compartment. Look beneath the hood for the belt routing diagram. If no diagram exists, draw a box on a piece of paper representing the front of the engine; draw circles on the box to represent each pulley in its position on the engine; lastly, draw a thick line between the pulleys indicating the routing of the drive belt.

2

Depress the tensioner assembly with a 3/8-inch-drive ratchet, by placing the ratchet in the square hole provided in the tensioner body. The tensioner is the metal, teardrop-shaped part that has a pulley at the tip of the teardrop. Remove the drive belt from the tensioner pulley, then from the engine completely.

3

Install the new drive belt over the engine cooling fan. Route the belt over each engine pulley as it appears in the routing diagram under the hood, or on the diagram that you drew. Make the belt tensioner the last stop of your belt routing. Depress the belt tensioner with the ratchet, then install the belt over the tensioner pulley.

4

Check the vertical alignment of the drive belt to make sure it is centered in the grooves on each pulley. Depress the tensioner halfway and make adjustments to center the belt, if needed.

5

Install the radiator shroud into the engine compartment. Tighten the shroud bolts snug with a ratchet and socket. Install the negative battery cable, and tighten it snug.

When the windshield washer pumps fail on a 1997 Chevrolet Silverado 1500, the windshield washer system cannot transfer fluid through the system tubing in order to clean the windshield. These pumps, located in the windshield washer tank, are the sole components responsible for moving fluid throughout the entire system. These pumps operate by running off the vehicles 12 volt electrical power supply. When the wash section of the windshield wiper arm is depressed, the wiper motor relay switches to a closed position allowing current to flow to the washer pumps. In the event of a pump failure, current still flows to the pump, but they will not operate.

Instructions

Removal

1

Remove the bolts holding the washer tank area cover to the truck with a metric ratchet and socket. Remove the two bolts holding the washer tank to the truck body with a metric socket and ratchet.

2

Unplug the upper pump hose from the vehicle. Disconnect the electrical connector from the truck to the pump assembly. Lift the washer tank out of the truck. Pour the washer fluid from the tank into a drain pan.

3

Pry the washer pump cover away from the washer tank with a flat-head screwdriver, and then set it aside. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the washer pumps. Disconnect the washer pump hose from the individual washer pumps.

4

Twist and pull on each washer pump to remove it from its mounting grommet.

Installation

5

Set the new washer pumps into position and press down on them until they are completely seated in the rubber grommet holes. Reconnect their electrical connectors. Reconnect the wash pump hose to each pump.

6

Snap the pump cover onto the washer tank. Set the tank back into the truck and reinstall the bolts holding the tank to the truck. Torque the bolts to 53 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Reconnect the upper pump hose to the hose running to the washer jets.

7

Refill the washer tank with new fluid and close the cover. Set the washer tank area cover into place and reinstall the bolts holding it in place with a metric socket and ratchet. Test the washer pumps.