Saturday, November 30, 2013

Paintless Auto Body Tools

Paintless Auto Body Tools

Paintless auto body repair refers to a process of removing dents in a manner that does not require repainting of the affected area. This practice is widely known as paintless dent removal (PDR). DingSmith defines PDR as the art of removing minor dents and dings without sanding, filling or painting. Manual tools will prove sufficient for paintless auto body repairs; you can purchase them separately or in kits.

Hot Glue Tabs

    PDR requires a number of repair techniques using a variety of tools according to the size and characteristics of each individual dent. You can pull out small dings such as hail damage using reusable, plastic tabs of various shapes and sizes. You can secure these tabs to the dent using hot glue specific for PDR that allows for easy removal without damaging the paint. Battery-operated glue guns allow PDR professionals the freedom to make repairs at any location. A majority of services advertise the ability to perform repairs at a clients home or office.

Pullers and Lifters

    Once you secure the tabs are secured and the hot glue has cooled, you can pull the small mushroom-like grips on the tabs to bring up the dent using a simple T-handle puller or lifter. A firm tug on a T-handle puller should bring up most small dings easily. A lifter has feet you position over the dent while clenching a pair of handles to lift the glue tab and dent simultaneously.

Suction Cups

    Larger dents are not suitable for the tab-and-glue method. A manual suction cup covers a wider area and brings up dents with one or a few pulls. This suction cup, a simple handheld tool found in most hardware stores, allows you to handle glass. A lever in the handle creates the suction when you place the rubber disk against the auto body for an extremely tight hold.

Hammering Tools

    Hammering out the dent from the backside of the auto body is a technique either used alone or with pulling techniques. The hammer must have a specific design for working with metal to prevent further damage; a rubber mallet can serve the same purpose. AutoMedia describes a leather bag filled with buckshot that stands up to a hammer, while allowing pressure to work out the dent without causing further damage to the auto body.

Drill and Dent Puller

    Ideally, paintless auto body repair requires absolutely no painting. One method consists of drilling into the dent and using touch-up paint on completion. According to MechanicAdvisor, a metal drill bit pierces the center of the dent for inserting a dent pulling tool into the hole. After you have smoothed the dent, you must fill the hole with a small amount of quick-drying filler. A minimal amount of paint completes the repair, much like applying fingernail polish or using a paint marker.

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How to Adjust an Impact Gun

How to Adjust an Impact Gun

An impact gun is an air tool that removes bolts and nuts quickly with the pressure of air from a compressor. Impact guns are very useful for working on vehicles to remove stubborn nuts and bolts. One of the most common uses of an impact gun is for removing and replacing lug nuts on wheels. An impact gun greatly reduces the amount of time on a project as opposed to using hand tools.

Instructions

    1

    Turn the air compressor on and let it achieve operating pressure. The air compressor will cycle off when it is ready for use.

    2

    Hold the impact gun with the bottom quick connector facing up. Squirt two or three drops of pneumatic tool oil in the connector.

    3

    Grasp the quick coupler on the impact gun at the rear. Pull the ring back and insert the air compressor hose onto the tool. Attach the other end of the hose to the air compressor in the same manner.

    4

    Insert a socket into the impact gun by pressing it on the tip.

    5

    Turn the airflow regulator on the impact gun to a higher number and setting for more power. If the socket is on a bolt and the bolt will not turn, adjust the tool for more torque to a higher number. Turn the airflow regulator to a lower number and setting for less torque.

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How to Change the Exhaust Manifold Gasket in a 2002 GMC Envoy

How to Change the Exhaust Manifold Gasket in a 2002 GMC Envoy

The exhaust manifold is the area of the vehicle where exhaust gases from the cylinders accumulate prior to being passed into the exhaust pipe. A poor manifold gasket, which is located between the manifold and engine cylinder, can lead to an exhaust leak, indicated by a ticking or tapping noise that is much louder when the engine is cold. As the engine warms up, the noise will dissipate. The procedure will vary slightly depending upon whether your 2002 Envoy is a V6 or V8 engine but, independent of the engine, the repair can be completed with the engine in place.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the cable from the batterys negative terminal. Lift the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands.

    2

    Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust pipe-to-manifold studs and nuts from beneath the vehicle. The bolts are typically rusty. Wait a little while to allow the penetrating oil soak into the bolts.

    3

    Remove the nuts retaining the exhaust pipe to the manifold, using a socket wrench. On a V8 engine, there will be two exhaust manifolds which are more easily accessed with the front tires and the inner fenderwalls removed, although it is not absolutely necessary.

    4

    For a V6 Envoy, unplug the oxygen sensor electrical connector. On a V8 Envoy, detach the spark plug wires and remove the spark plugs from the manifold side being worked on. If both manifolds are being removed, detach all spark plug wires and remove all spark plugs.

    5

    Remove the three heat shield nuts using a socket wrench then remove the heat shield. Place the heat shield aside.

    6

    Perform the following if you are working on a V8 Envoy. The procedure is dependent upon the side of the vehicle where the manifold is located. For the right side, remove the air cleaner assembly and the oil dipstick. Unbolt the dip stick tube bracket and move the dipstick tube. Remove the EGR valve by removing the pipe to intake manifold mounting bolts, the EGR valve mounting bracket-to-cylinder head bolts and the EGR pipe-to-exhaust manifold mounting bolts. On the left side of the vehicle, simply disconnect the electrical connector from the engine coolant temperature sensor, which is at the front of the cylinder head above the number one spark plug.

    7

    Remove the exhaust system manifold bolts using an open-ended wrench. Detach the manifold from the cylinder head. Remove the exhaust manifold gasket.

    8

    Clean the mating surfaces on the cylinder head and the manifold using a gasket scraper to remove all carbon deposits. Check the manifold for cracks and make sure the bolt threads are clean and undamaged.

    9

    Install a new gasket to the mating surfaces between the cylinder head and the manifold.

    10

    Install the manifold on the cylinder head. Apply heat-resistant thread locking compound to the bolt threads and then start tightening the bolts by hand. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench in three passes, starting from the center bolt and working your way to the ends. Tighten the bolts to 18 foot-lbs.

    11

    Reinstall the remaining components in the reverse of removal, tightening the heat shield to 80 inch-lbs. using a torque wrench. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

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How to Time a Harley Davidson Motorcycle

How to Time a Harley-Davidson Motorcycle

Checking the timing on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle every 5,000 miles plays an important role in a comprehensive maintenance routine. As a Harley-Davidson engine ages, you must adjust the ignition timing to compensate for the wear of internal engine parts. Setting the timing correctly keeps your motorcycle running smoothly and efficiently. Maladjusted timing may result in sluggish performance, poor fuel economy and possible damage to internal engine components. Setting the timing is relatively easy and ensures the maximum life from the engine.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the crankcase timing plug using an Allen wrench, and expose the timing hole. The timing hole is located on the primary chain case side of the motor on the engine block and capped with a solid hex-head plug. Install a clear plastic timing hole plug to prevent oil splash.

    2

    Connect the positive terminal of an inductive timing light to the positive battery terminal of the motorcycle. Connect the negative terminal of the timing light to the negative terminal of the battery. Connect the inductive pickup probe of the timing light to the front cylinder spark plug wire.

    3

    Start the engine, and run it at idle. Point the timing light into the timing inspection hole. If the ignition is properly timed, the timing bar will align with the circular timing reference mark. The reference marks on a correctly timed engine will appear as a vertical bar through the center of the circle. Some models only have a timing reference mark on the flywheel of the motor; on these models, the engine is correctly timed when the reference mark is visible in the timing inspection hole.

    4

    Remove the timing cover from the right side of the motor with a Phillips screwdriver or Allen wrench, depending on your specific model. Loosen the the timing plate screws with a slotted screwdriver, and turn the timing plate to adjust the timing. Recheck the timing marks with the timing light. Tighten the timing plate screws, and install the cover.

    5

    Shut off the engine, and remove the timing light. Remove the clear plastic timing hole plug, and install the solid plug in the hole.

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Friday, November 29, 2013

How to Troubleshoot a 2005 Ford Escape

The 2005 Ford Escape is a compact SUV sold by the Ford Motor Company. It was first presented to the public in 2000 for the 2001 model year. Even though the Ford Escape was considered to be one of the best-selling SUVs in America, according to the Edmunds website, it is not without its problems. However, if you have the right tools and information, you should be able to troubleshoot your 2005 Ford SUV.

Instructions

    1

    Check your Ford Escape for starter problems. Listen for grinding noises from the starter. If your SUV will not start or the dashboard will not light up, your battery may be dead and need to be charged or replaced. Also check the battery cables to see if they need to be connected more securely to the battery.

    2

    Check your engine oil. If you have an change oil sticker in the upper left corner of your cars window, check to see if the oil change date is overdue. If your oil change is overdue, make an appointment to receive an oil change to avoid problems. If you dont have a sticker, check your oil by using the oil dipstick under the hood of your SUV. Pull the stick out, wipe it clean with a cloth. Place the stick back into the slot and check the gauge on the stick to see if your oil is too low. You can either add the required oil that your car needs or decide that its time for a complete oil change.

    3

    Listen for screeching sounds that may be coming from your vehicles engine while your engine is on. If you can hear whining sounds coming from the engine after you turn it on, you may need to replace the power steering pump.

    4

    Check to see if you can hear any knocking noises coming from your engine when driving at low speeds. If you hear knocking noises, have a professional mechanic check out your cooling system, the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber and transmission.

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How to Replace the Head Gasket on a 1984 Ranger

The Ford Ranger is a compact pickup truck that has been in production since 1983, with the first generation of this series including the 1983 through 1988 models. The most common engines on the 1984 Ford Ranger are four-cylinder engines with a displacement of either 2.0 liters and 2.3 liters. These engines have a single cylinder head for all four cylinders, which sits on top of the engine block. The cylinder head gasket in the 1984 Ranger typically requires replacement when you remove the cylinder head.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting while replacing the cylinder head gasket. Place a container under the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator, and remove the drain cock with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator into the container, and replace the drain cock.

    2

    Disconnect the air cleaner from the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and remove the valve cover. Detach the drive belt for the air compressor if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the mounting bolts for the air compressor, and remove the air compressor mounting bracket from the cylinder head. Push the air compressor out of the way to access the cylinder head.

    3

    Remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Record the position of the attaching screws on the cover for the cam shaft drive belt, so you can install the screws in the correct position later. Remove the cover for the cam shaft drive belt.

    4

    Turn the tensioner for the drive belt counterclockwise with a socket wrench to relieve the tension on the drive belt. Detach the drive belt from its pulleys. Disconnect the water outlet and its hose from the cylinder head.

    5

    Remove the water outlet elbow from the cylinder head with the hose still attached. Remove the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench, and lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block.

    6

    Remove the gasket from the cylinder block. Clean the remaining gasket material and other debris from the cylinder head and cylinder block with a gasket scraper.

    7

    Place the new gasket onto the cylinder block, and mount the cylinder head to the cylinder block. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head to between 50 and 52 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 80 and 90 foot-pounds on the second pass.

    8

    Mount the camshaft drive belt to its pulleys. Replace the cover for the camshaft drive and install the attaching bolts for the cover, using your notes from step three as a guide. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 6 and 13 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

    9

    Install a new gasket for the water outlet and connect the outlet to the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 12 and 15 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the exhaust manifold and intake manifold with a socket wrench. Fasten the mounting bracket for the air compressor to the cylinder head, if your vehicle is so equipped.

    10

    Fill the vehicle with coolant, and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

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How to Troubleshoot an Auto Exhaust

How to Troubleshoot an Auto Exhaust

Engine combustion produced by an air-fuel mixture creates waste gases that are expelled through an exhaust system. Exhaust gases contain hazardous substances such as carbon monoxide, which are filtered in the catalytic converter, located before the muffler in an exhaust system. Fuel economy, engine strain and engine power directly relate to how waste gases are expelled. Problems with auto exhaust such as excessive back-pressure (when exhaust flows back into the engine cylinders), fluids leaking into the system and compromised components decrease occupant safety, reduce engine performance and may induce other problems. Troubleshooting exhaust issues helps predict repair costs and helps mechanics correct the problem.

Instructions

Diagnosing Exhaust Color

    1

    Turn on the vehicle. Allow the engine to warm up. If it is a cold day, allot more time for engine warmup.

    2

    Place the vehicle in "Park," and exit to the rear of the vehicle.

    3

    Identify the exhaust color. Black smoke indicates excessive fuel in the engines cylinder ports. Causes for this include dirty spark plugs or a dirty air filter. Blue smoke indicates oil in the cylinder ports, which may be caused from worn seals or gaskets. Thick white smoke indicates a coolant leak possibly because of a worn head gasket.

    4

    Smell the exhaust. Sweet smelling exhaust indicates a coolant leak. A strong gas odor indicates the engines air-fuel mixture is running rich.

    5

    Open the hood if the exhaust smells sweet and locate the coolant reservoir. It is a further indication of a radiator coolant leak if the coolant reservoir level is low. A flashlight will make reading the level easier.

Locating Compromised Components

    6

    Lift and secure the vehicle off the ground using a jack and jack stands. Leave enough room to safely slide underneath the vehicle.

    7

    Slide underneath the vehicle and visually inspect the tailpipe, muffler, catalytic converter and piping. Look for rust, punctures, pinched piping and loose hardware. Pinched or dented exhaust components negatively affect exhaust flow and velocity while also increasing back-pressure. Punctures in the muffler or piping increase exhaust noise, too.

    8

    Verify all the exhaust hangers that hold the components in place are present along with the necessary hardware using a flashlight. Loose points tend to occur where the components mate, such as the piping that connects to the muffler.

    9

    Slide out from under the car and open the hood.

    10

    Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks, discolored paint around where the manifold and cylinder head mate and burned-looking spark plug wires adjacent to the exhaust manifold. Discoloration indicates a blown exhaust manifold gasket or manifold crack.

    11

    Turn on the vehicle and return to the exhaust manifold. Listen for a hissing or a popping sound in that region, which indicates a compromised exhaust manifold.

    12

    Close the hood and lower the vehicle back to the ground.

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Thursday, November 28, 2013

86 Mustang Troubleshooting

86 Mustang Troubleshooting

The 1986 Ford Mustang is a fuel-injected, eight cylinder engine. It produces about 200 horsepower and is available with a four-speed automatic or five-speed manual transmission. Engines problems may occur with this older model Mustang that can keep the engine from properly starting and running.

Dead Battery

    Check the battery if the 1986 Mustang wont start. An easy way of determining whether or not the battery is dead is by trying to put on the lights or turn the radio on. If both are unresponsive and the car wont start, check the battery connections, try jumpstarting the vehicle or replacing the battery.

Fuel Filter

    Replace the fuel filter if the lights and radio are functioning but the vehicle still wont start. The fuel filter should be replaced every 50,000 miles. If not, the fuel filter can become clogged and prevent gas from entering fuel injectors.

Old/No Gas

    If the car has not been run in more than a year, the problem may be old gasoline in the tank. To test, try running the engine with ether. Put the ether into the throttle body and see if the engine starts and continues running. If the engine continues running, the problem is not with the gas in the tank. As simple as it sounds, be sure there is gas in the tank. If not, add fresh fuel and try again.

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My 1995 Dodge Avenger Stalls Wont Start

My 1995 Dodge Avenger Stalls & Wont Start

The 1995 Dodge Avenger is a mid sized four-door sedan. If your Avenger is stalling and then wont start, there are some things that you should look at before you spend money on an auto mechanic. The battery and the fuel levels are the most common causes of a car not starting. If these two issues are not what is wrong with your car, you will likely need to consult an auto repair shop to diagnose the problem.

Instructions

    1

    Pop the hood to your Dodge Avenger and look over the battery.

    2

    Use a socket wrench to tighten the connections from the battery terminals and the connector cables going to your engine.

    3

    Loosen the connections and then use soda and a wire brush to clean any corrosion off of the connector cables.

    4

    Jump start the car and leave it running for five minutes. Turn the car off and then try to restart it. If the car does not restart, you will need to replace the battery.

    5

    Check the fuel levels on the Avenger. Fill the car up with one gallon of gas and then try to restart the car. If the car restarts, have a mechanic repair your gas gauge.

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What Is an Automotive Wheel Hub

What Is an Automotive Wheel Hub?

Cars have a lot of small, but vital parts that make movement possible. Wheel hubs may not get the attention of a good paint job or the appeal of a whopping turbo, but nothing else on the car would matter much without them.

Location

    The wheel hub, formerly known as the wheel hub assembly, is composed primarily of one or more wheel bearings and a housing to contain them. The exact configuration varies according to the application, but most have an inner and outer wheel bearing. The wheels axle fits between these bearings. If the hub is on a driven wheel, the axle passes through and connects to the wheel; if placed on an un-driven wheel, the axle is just a stub between six and 12 inches long, and terminates behind the hub.

Failure

    Hubs generally fail either at the inner or outer wheel bearing. One way of checking the hub is to jack the car up so that the wheel dangles off the ground, then to attempt to rock the wheel side-to-side. If it moves independently of the spindle (the steering knuckle), then the hub bearings are shot. Less severe failures will typically manifest as a grumbling vibration that gets worse when the car enters a fast curve.

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How Do I Change an Oxygen Sensor on a 1997 Hyundai Accent GL

The 1997 Hyundai Accent oxygen sensor threads into the exhaust manifold beneath the heat deflector under the car. The O2 sensor regulates the fuel consumption of the engine based upon the oxygen saturation of the exhaust. If the gas mileage in your car has inexplicably decreased substantially and the check engine light is on, you may have a failing O2 sensor. Buy a replacement sensor at an auto parts store or Hyundai dealership.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the Accent with a jack. Rest the car on a set of jack stands.

    2

    Disconnect the wiring harness from the O2 sensor just beneath the exhaust manifold heat deflector.

    3

    Remove the bolts on the outer edge of the heat deflector with a socket and ratchet. Set the heat deflector and bolts aside in a safe location. Remove the O2 sensor with an O2 sensor socket and ratchet.

    4

    Install the new sensor by hand to avoid cross threading it. Tighten the sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Reconnect the wiring harness on the O2 sensor by pressing it into place.

    5

    Replace the heat deflector. Secure the deflector with the bolts and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet.

    6

    Raise the car slightly with a jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

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Wednesday, November 27, 2013

2000 Infiniti I30 Wont Start

2000 Infiniti I30 Wont Start

The Infinity I30 is a four-door sedan designed as a luxury car. If you are having problems starting your Infinity I30, you will need to check the battery. The battery is the most common reason that a car will not start. Corrosion can build up on the battery terminals and leave them inoperable. Cleaning the corrosion and then jump-starting the battery will tell you if you need to replace the battery all together.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood to your I30 and locate the battery. The battery is next to the engine.

    2

    Disconnect the battery terminals from the battery. Clean the terminals with soda and a wire brush to clean the corrosion off.

    3

    Put the terminals back onto the battery and then start the I30.

    4

    Jump start your I30 with jumper cables. Allow the car to sit for about 5 minutes and then turn it off.

    5

    Restart the car. If the car will not restart, replace the battery.

    6

    Check the fuel level in the car. Add fuel and then start the car.

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How to Move a Car With a Dead Starter

How to Move a Car With a Dead Starter

When you turn the key in your cars ignition and the car fails to start, you may begin seeing dollar signs. The cost of repairing your vehicle is an immediate concern, and the cost of towing the vehicle soon follows. If your vehicles starter has failed, you can eliminate the towing costs by safely moving the vehicle on your own. By following a few quick steps, you can tow the vehicle to the appropriate location with a simple tow strap.

Instructions

    1

    Ask a friend or family member with a heavy-duty truck capable of towing cargo to help move your car. Trucks and large sport utility vehicles are recommended.

    2

    Attach one end of the tow strap to the hooks or holes in the front frame of your car. Do not attach the straps to the bumper of the car as your bumper cannot handle the pull of the tow and may become damaged.

    3

    Attach the remaining end of the tow strap to the back of the truck or sport utility vehicle doing the towing. Loop or hook the strap on the towing hitch receiver on the vehicle, not the bumper.

    4

    Turn on the hazard lights in both vehicles to signal other drivers to slow down and maintain assured clear distance. Assign a person to drive the towed vehicle with the dead starter. Although the car cannot run, someone must steer the vehicle and apply the brakes when stopping.

    5

    Put the car being towed in "Neutral." Drive slowly and avoid busy roadways. Ensure that the lead vehicle allows turning and stopping time for the towed vehicle, to avoid a collision. Drive with caution and avoid slamming on the brakes, which may cause the strap to jerk loose (see Reference one).

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What is Mercedes Schedule D Service

What is Mercedes Schedule D Service?

To keep your Mercedes-Benz vehicle in superior condition, certified technicians perform regular maintenance to your car. For most models, a service indicator found in the cars instrumentation panel announces the time and type of maintenance required.

Time for Service D

    The instrumentation on your Mercedes-Benz will indicate that the vehicle is due for "Service D." You must call an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealer to schedule this service.

Time Frame

    "Service D" alerts the service department that maintenance to your vehicle will take approximately four hours. Once you bring in your car, the Mercedes-Benz service adviser will determine from the vehicles instrumentation the type of maintenance needed. This always will include changing the oil and checking fluid levels.

Service Varies

    The maintenance booklet that comes with your vehicle may reflect the time or mileage "Service D" occurs. This projection may vary from your cars service indicator.

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Tuesday, November 26, 2013

How to Adjust Cruise Control on a Jeep CJ7

How to Adjust Cruise Control on a Jeep CJ7

If you spend a lot of time driving on the highway, you probably are familiar with your cars cruise control. It can make driving long distances more comfortable and increase your fuel economy. Older vehicles with mechanical cruise controls occasionally require adjustments to keep them operating at peak efficiency. If your Jeep CJ7s cruise control engages at a higher or lower speed than youve selected, follow the procedure outlined below.

Instructions

Speed-centering Adjustment

    1

    Locate the cruise-control module underneath the instrument panel on the drivers side. On one side near the mounting tabs are two adjustment screws.

    2

    Adjust the screw closer to the mounting tabs in the following manner: If the cruise control engages two or more miles per hour faster than the selected speed, turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise a quarter-turn. If the cruise control engages two or more miles per hour slower than the selected speed, turn the adjusting screw clockwise a quarter-turn.

    3

    Drive the vehicle on a level road to check for proper adjustment. Repeat the steps above as necessary.

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How Do I Change a Knock Sensor in a Ford 5 4L

How Do I Change a Knock Sensor in a Ford 5.4L?

A knock sensor is a piezometric crystal that advances or retards the engine based on load. Knock sensors are typically located on the intake side of the Ford 5.4-liter engine. All knock sensors connect to an electrical wiring harness and links to the vehicles On Board Computer (OBC). A knock sensors fails like a light bulb fails -- it simply wears out. When a knock sensor does fail, the OBC will automatically retard the engine to minimal fuel efficiency and put the engine in limp mode. The check engine light is a symptom of knock sensor failure.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative terminal from the vehicles battery using the 10- to 12-mm box wrench to prevent short-circuiting while changing out the knock sensor.

    2

    Disconnect the electrical wiring harness from the knock sensor by pulling it apart manually or using long-handled needle-nose pliers. This action is similar to pulling a plug out of an electrical wall socket.

    3

    Remove the knock sensor by attaching the wobble or swivel bit to the end of the 3/8-inch extension and fastening it to the socket that fits. Insert the socket over the knock sensor. You need the wobble or swivel bit at the end of the extension to access the sensor due to the configuration of the intake manifold.

    4

    Connect the ratchet to the end of the 3/8-inch extension that is attached to the wobble or swivel bit and the socket. Use the ratchet to loosen the sensor from the engine block by turning it gently to the left. Remove the defective sensor from the socket and place the defective sensor on the work bench.

    5

    Add a dab of white lithium grease to the male end of the electrical connections of the new knock sensor to prevent corrosion build up and to make insertion easier.

    6

    Use the socket with the extension to manually screw the new knock sensor to the engine block to avoid cross-threading. Cross-threading occurs when the threads of the sensor do not match up with the threads of the engine block.

    7

    Reattach the electrical harness to the sensor and reconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

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How to Check the Speed Sensor on a 99 Chevy Silverado

When the speed sensor on a 1999 Chevrolet Silverado begins to fail, the first noticeable sign may be a fluctuating speedometer. The speedometers needle may jump from one speed to another, or fall to zero and then suddenly return to the correct speed. The vehicle speed sensor, or VSS, is the sensor responsible for relaying the vehicles speed to the engine computer. In addition to using data from the VSS to calculate the vehicles speed, it also uses this data to make other computational decisions, including when to shift the transmission. The VSS is located on the tailshaft of the transmission or on transfer case in four wheel drive models. The sensor itself is a magnetic inductive sensor that monitors the magnetic field around a notched, reluctor wheel affixed to the tailshaft. The notches in this wheel interfere with the sensors magnetic field and the engine computer calculates the frequency of this interference and converts it into a speed value.

Instructions

    1

    Turn off the engine, but leave the ignition on. Connect a scan tool to the Silverados scan tool terminal.

    2

    Navigate to the live data menu and select VSS. Test drive the vehicle in a safe, controlled area such as an empty parking lot where there is no possibility of hitting other cars or objects.

    3

    Look down at the scan tools display and note the speed value for the VSS. It should reflect the vehicles current speed. If the speed displayed is 0 or different from the speedometer reading, its likely there is a problem with the VSS or the VSS harness connector.

    4

    Note the voltage value for the VSS on the scan tool. This value should be listed below or above the VSS speed value. It should read between 1.5 and 12 volts. If the value is outside this range, the VSS is either not receiving the proper voltage or is faulty.

    5

    Raise the vehicle with an automotive jack and support it with jack stands. Locate the VSS on the tailshaft of the transmission of transfer case for vehicles equipped with four wheel drive. Disconnect the VSSs electrical connector.

    6

    Turn the ignition on and probe the light blue wire on the connector with a digital multimeter set to DC volts. The multimeter should show between 1.5 and 12 volts. Connect a test lamp to a positive voltage source and probe the black, ground wire on the VSS connector. The test lamp should illuminate if the ground properly connected. If the ground is OK and you find voltage at the connector, then the VSS is faulty and needs to be replaced.

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How to Filter Oil Additives

How to Filter Oil Additives

Every car has to have its oil changed every three to five thousand miles. This can be an expensive addition to already expensive operating costs for drivers. If you want to cut down on your automotive bills, you can filter the additives from used oil in order to reuse the oil in your car. This is not a very hard task to perform. You can do it with just a few items found around the house.

Instructions

    1

    Put a 5-gallon bucket on top of a shelf. Place another 5 gallon bucket on the shelf below it.

    2

    Measure enough rope to reach from the bottom of the top bucket to the bottom of the bottom bucket. Cut the rope and then cut a hole with the same diameter of the rope in the bottom of the top bucket. Drill a hole in the shelf the same diameter of the rope so it can feed into the bottom bucket.

    3

    Feed the rope from the bottom of the top bucket down through the shelf and into the bottom bucket. Secure the rope to the top bucket with a staple or a nail.

    4

    Pour your old oil into the top of the bucket. As the oil seeps down the rope into the bottom bucket, the additives will stick to the rope, cleaning the oil in the process. Wrap the entire shelf in plastic sheeting to secure it from foreign objects.

    5

    Wait for 3-4 weeks for the oil to filtrate. Remove the sheeting and then pour the filter oil into the oil containers for storage. Mix the 3 parts filtered oil with 1 part new oil for use.

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Monday, November 25, 2013

How to Run an Auto Shop Lab

How to Run an Auto Shop Lab

Auto shop labs are essential to an education in automotive repair and body work. A lab class provides students with hands-on training in the field so they can learn by doing. Auto shop labs may supplement a lecture class where students work with a textbook or it may be the main tool for teaching new students. The shop includes many dangerous tools and machines that could cause injury if not handled properly. A well-run auto shop lab provides students with quality education and minimizes the risk of injury by establishing safety standards with which students must comply.

Instructions

    1

    Familiarize new students with auto shop lab safety rules and tool procedures by holding a mandatory orientation class on the first day. Include a quiz to ensure all students understand the rules before being allowed to work in the shop.

    2

    Require all people in the lab area to wear the appropriate safety gear, including safety glasses, protective shoes and long pants.

    3

    Designate a place for all tools and equipment so they are easy to find. This is essential to a smooth operation when so many students must share the same equipment.

    4

    Quiz students on the operation of new tools and machines before allowing each student to work with them.

    5

    Create lesson plans that focus on one aspect of car repair at a time, such as checking fluids, oil changes, brake systems and tire rotation. If you need help building lesson plans, you can refer to a website like lessonplanet.com, which has complete auto shop lesson plans.

    6

    Provide students with mini lessons about aspects of the car industry, such as explaining auto insurance, environmental impact, buying a car versus leasing a car and auto shop business operations. This will ensure that all students have a well rounded knowledge of all aspects of the car business, rather than limiting their education to mechanics.

    7

    Provide all students with a lecture or demonstration before allowing them to practice new techniques. This will ensure that students have at least a basic knowledge of the lesson before beginning the work.

    8

    Give students a quiz or test on each new lesson to evaluate his preparedness for working hands-on with a car. You might include fill-in-the-blank questions or include a diagram of a car and have students label the parts.

    9

    Give each student a chance to practice what shes learned by working on a car. Be sure to monitor her work carefully so you can correct any mistakes and ensure she has learned the lesson correctly.

    10

    Advertise within your community and throughout the school to find cars on which your students can work. Many people will be eager to participate because they get free auto repairs and are aiding in students education.

    11

    Establish a schedule each week of the cars that will be repaired in the shop. Designate students to make each repair so that all students have something to do and little time is wasted.

    12

    Require vehicle owners to sign a permission form and waiver of liability form that states they agree to allow your class to perform work and will not hold you responsible for damages. This is especially important for classes with novice mechanics who are bound to make mistakes.

    13

    Clean the lab area regularly to remove potential safety hazards, such as oil spills or tools that are out of place.

    14

    Evaluate student performance on a regular basis with tests, quizzes and student participation points. Some students may not test well or be great mechanics, but you should reward them for making an effort to understand each lesson and actively participating in your class.

    15

    Ask vehicle owners to evaluate your operation so you get an outsiders perspective and can make improvements to your lab operation as you go.

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Purpose of Exhaust Systems

Purpose of Exhaust Systems

Exhaust systems perform several functions, including deadening noise made by the engine and controlling the emissions from your vehicle. The exhaust system includes the muffler, exhaust manifold, oxygen sensor, catalytic converter and exhaust pipe.

Deadening Sound

    The muffler is the main component of the exhaust system that deadens sound. Mufflers use sound baffles, which absorb the loud sound of the engine. Some mufflers use fiberglass to absorb sound.

Controlling Emissions

    The catalytic converter uses heat and metals to convert harmful fumes, like carbon monoxide, into less harmful ones, like water vapor. Other harmful fumes that the exhaust eliminates or reduces are carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, phosphorus and lead.

Significance

    Reducing passenger car emissions is particularly important for environmental protection. According to Hybrid Vehicles, cars emit millions of tons of pollutants every day. Pollution control has improved dramatically over the past 20 years with advances in converters and the introduction of hybrid vehicles.

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How to Install Yamaha Raider Saddlebags

How to Install Yamaha Raider Saddlebags

With its low profile and kicked-out front end, the Yamaha Raider intentionally emulates the look of high-end custom Harleys. It is an homage to new millennium bar hoppers. Yamaha calls it "chopper inspired." Choppers and bobbers usually dont have bags but Yamaha will sell you a pair anyway. Dozens of other motorcycle aftermarket companies will too. And if you take your Raider for a trip, they are likely to come in handy. This is how Hardstreet Slimbags bolt onto your Raider.

Instructions

    1

    Identify the pistol-shaped fender rail on both sides of your rear fender. Work on one side at a time. Remove the two rear bolts from one fender rail with a ratchet. Unpack the saddlebags and identify the left and right saddlebags. Attach the right saddlebag first. Unpack the mounting brackets and identify the brackets, bolts, spacers, washers and screws. You should have four of each. Read the instructions included with the brackets.

    2

    Use two short screws and two long bolts to attach two brackets to the right saddle bag.

    3

    Use two spacers and your original fender rail bolts to attach the right saddlebag to the right fender rail with a box wrench.

    4

    Repeat with the left saddlebag.

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How to Replace Fuel Pumps in a 1995 Buick LeSabre

The Buick LeSabre was a series of full-size cars that the Buick division of General Motors produced from 1959 to 2005. The 1995 Buick Lesabre was a 4-door sedan with a 6-cylinder 3.8-liter engine. This engine used sequential fuel injection to deliver high-pressure fuel to the fuel injectors. The fuel pump in the 1995 Buick LeSabre was in the fuel tank, requiring you to remove the fuel tank when replacing the fuel pump.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench to avoid starting the engine accidentally. Open the fuel filler cap to relieve the vapor pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure fitting on the fuel rail, and wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure fitting. Attach fuel pressure valve J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure fitting, and place the bleed hose into container approved for gasoline. Open the valve to release the pressure in the fuel system, and fasten the fuel filler cap.

    2

    Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the filler vent hose from the fuel tank and connect the open end of the hose to a hand-operated pump. Drain as much fuel from the fuel tank is possible into a gasoline container.

    3

    Detach the electrical connector for the fuel sender and remove the fuel lines from the fuel sender. Disconnect the quick connectors for the fuel pipe and support the fuel tank with jack stands. Remove the bolts for the fuel tank retaining straps with a socket wrench and disconnect the rear hangar of the exhaust system. Disconnect the fuel tank and remove it from the vehicle.

    4

    Turn the locking ring for the fuel sender assembly counterclockwise with tool J-24187. Lift the fuel sender assembly carefully from the fuel tank, detach the fuel pump from the fuel gauge sender unit. Discard the O-ring on top of the fuel sender. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel comp, and release the clamps around the fuel pump. Pull the fuel from its rubber connectors.

    5

    Install the new fuel pump by performing Steps 2 through 4 in reverse, ensuring that you also install a new O-ring. Fill the fuel tank, and connect the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on to pressurize the fuel system, and check for fuel leaks.

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Sunday, November 24, 2013

My Defroster Wont Stay On

My Defroster Wont Stay On

A defroster that wont stay on when activated may lead to an accident due to poor road visibility. This is because it is supposed to prevent fog, frost or ice buildup in your cars window. Determining the cause of a malfunctioning defroster requires initial troubleshooting steps. In most cases, the problem requires a fairly easy fix that you can perform on your own. However, a more serious case is still best attended by a professional.

Instructions

    1

    Inspect the defrosters fuse to determine if it is causing the problem. As the location of the defroster depends on the cars manufacturer, make and model, consult your owners manual to confirm where you can find the fuse. Once located, use a volt meter to check if the fuse is working or not.

    2

    Examine the wiring from the fuse box to also ensure that there is proper connection. Make sure that the fuse is tight and secure as a loose one may also be causing the problem. Use an electrical tape in case there are parts of the wiring needing coverage.

    If the fuse is causing the problem, simply follow the more specific steps indicated in the owners manual for the replacement. Ideally, this requires pulling out the old one with the fuse puller in your fuse box, then simply attaching a new fuse, which is easily available in auto stores.

    After checking the fuse and its components and there seems to be no problem, proceed to the next steps for further troubleshooting.

    3

    Check the wire that goes directly to the defroster as the tab typically connected to it can get detached in time. Make any fix using a window defroster tab adhesive, if necessary. Such adhesive, usually available in auto shops and super centers, comes in a kit with instructions on how to use it.

    4

    Examine the defroster grid lines found on the window. Make sure the glass heating the grid feed and the ground wires are properly connected to the glass. To make a do-it-yourself fix for any minor damage, use a window defogger repair kit and follow the instructions indicated in the package.

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How to Fill Out a Lien Release at the DMV in California

Under California law, an individual or business engaged in the business of repairing vehicles has the right to place a lien on a vehicle they have repaired if the owner refuses to pay for the repairs. After placing a lien on a vehicle, the lien holder has the right to initiate a lien sale and receive compensation for the repairs through proceeds. However, if the owner of the vehicle pays for the repairs after the lien arises, the lien holder must release the lien by filing Form REG-166 with the California Department of Motor Vehicles.

Instructions

    1

    Download Form REG-166 from the website of the California DMV (see Resources). The California DMV provides a PDF version of Form REG-166, which may be filled out on your computer, printed and filed.

    2

    Fill out and print Form REG-166. Under the vehicle information heading, provide the license plate, vehicle identification number and make of the vehicle that has a lien against it. Under the registered owner information heading, provide the full name of the person who has title to the vehicle. Under the title holder information section, provide the name and address of the individual or business that holds the lien against the vehicle. Press the "Print" button at the bottom of the form to print a completed copy.

    3

    Sign Form REG-166 in the presence of a notary. The lien holder must sign Form REG-166 in the presence of a notary. After signing, the notary must also sign Form REG-166.

    4

    File Form REG-166 with the California DMV and pay the filing fee. Form REG-166 must be filed in person at a California DMV office. The California DMV provides an online search tool for finding the nearest office (see Resources). As of 2011, the fee for filing a lien release is $15.

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How to Install a Windshield on 1953 Ford F 100 Pickup

How to Install a Windshield on 1953 Ford F-100 Pickup

You can install a windshield on your 53 Ford F-100 pickup right from home, with the help of an assistant. Save yourself some money by locating a quality, used windshield from an auto wrecking yard. Your Ford windshield not only protects you from road debris but it actually keeps the roof from caving in on you in the event of an accident. Therefore, it is vital to correctly install your windshield so that it can continue to protect you and your passengers.

Instructions

    1

    Place the new gasket in a warm, sunny place to make it more soft and flexible.

    2

    Fit the new gasket tightly around the replacement windshield. Make sure the gaskets slit faces outside the vehicle. Line a bead of sealant along the bottom channel all around the gasket.

    3

    Spread petroleum jelly into the outer groove of the gasket, adding some extra to the top and bottom center.

    4

    Line the outer groove of the gasket with a heavy nylon cord, leaving about a foot length on each end hanging out from the bottom center.

    5

    Place the windshield, with the help of your assistant, into the windshield frame from outside the pickup. Wear work gloves. Make sure you place the dangling cord inside the vehicle first.

    6

    Sit in the drivers seat while your helper is standing in front of the vehicle, facing the windshield. Pull on one cord end all the way around the frame. This will bring the gaskets rubber lip into the inside windshield frame. Have your helper press the gasket into the frame.

    7

    Allow the sealant to cure for 48 hours before driving the pickup.

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Saturday, November 23, 2013

How to Remove a Rusty Lug Nut

How to Remove a Rusty Lug Nut

Removing rusty nuts can be a tedious task, especially if the bolt is stripped or stuck. Separate the nut and bolt as soon as possible to prevent swelling and distortion as rust accumulates. Using proper technique and tools, you can often remove the nut without breaking it. This will allow you to reuse it once cleaned.

Instructions

    1
    Use a ratchet wrench for additional force.
    Use a ratchet wrench for additional force.

    Apply penetrating oil to the lug nut and surrounding area to loosen it up. Let the oil soak in for at least an hour to allow it to work through the rust; if you have time on your hands, use a rag to clear away the acquired rust at 10-minute intervals, reapplying oil each time. Try to separate nut from bolt with a 1/2 inch ratchet and socket or 1/2 inch breaker bar after an hour. Review the wear and placement of the nut before selecting a tool. The ratchet wrench can apply more force, but it also risks breaking the nut if used excessively.

    2
    Use heat to remove the nut.
    Use heat to remove the nut.

    Heat the nut with an acetylene torch or cigar torch to loosen the rust and cause it to flake off. Select the torch based on your experience. The cigar torch is lighter, easily movable and readily available at most hardware stores. The acetylene torch is more precise but should not be used by beginners. Direct the flame from the torch to the outer edge of the nut. Circle the nut slowly, maintaining an even line of fire. Focus first on the outer layer and move up to the inner circle after rounding the outer edge at least 10 times. Heat will cause the nut to expand, allowing oil to seep further down, separating the nut from the bolt.

    3
    Remove the lug nut with a socket wrench.
    Remove the lug nut with a socket wrench.

    Find a socket wrench one size smaller than needed to remove the nut. Center it over the nut and hammer it until it fully covers the nut. Rotate the wrench left and right to remove rust and apply pressure to widen the mouth of the nut. Remove the socket wrench from the nut and use a heavy-duty ratchet to remove the stripped nut.

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Effects of Cam Timing on a V8

Effects of Cam Timing on a V8

Camshafts are long metal rods with various ovals of shaped metal (called lobes) that control the opening and closing of engine valves. The valves are precisely timed to open and close based upon combustion within the engine cylinder. Manufacturers tend to create mild camshafts that produce smooth even idle, and help an engine produce a broad range of power. You can alter the camshaft timing by replacing the factory camshafts with aftermarket units, which is a popular upgrade option particularly among V8 owners.

Camshaft Location

    The camshaft will be located in different places based upon the design of the V8. In a pushrod V8 one camshaft is buried in the center of the engine block. Metal rods (called pushrods) used in conjunction with rocker arms connect the camshaft to valves. In a overhead camshaft V8 (OHC), either a single (SOHC) or dual (DOHC) camshafts sitting above the engine banks. Lifters and springs are used to actuate the valves. A SOHC may have rocker arms since only one camshaft operates both banks of cylinders.

Camshaft Operation

    The camshaft rotates based upon a chain that runs from the crankshaft. As the camshaft spins, the lobes on the camshaft cause the valves to open and close. Manufacturers create camshafts with mild timing that insures the intake and exhaust valves are not open at the same time -- called overlap. While earlier V8s employed fixed timing, todays modern engine management systems allow for variable timing, where the valve timing is changed by moving the camshaft to adjust for engine speed, which in effect advances or retards the valve timing.

Performance Improvement

    Large performance gains can be obtained with a aftermarket or altered factory camshaft that advances timing. When an engines intake and exhaust subsystems are altered, this changes the airflow of the engine, and thus a revised camshaft can optimize valve operation. In addition, by allowing for some overlap (where both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time), the engines performance is increased at the expense of poor and choppy idle (which is a plus to most V8 enthusiasts).

Tuning

    To optimize camshaft performance, you must have the vehicle tuned after installation. While the camshaft controls timing of valves, the fuel and spark (injectors and coils) will need to be adjusted to match the revised airflow.

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High Flow Exhaust Information

High Flow Exhaust Information

The design of an exhaust system affects the flow rate of gases expelled from an engines cylinder ports through piping leading outside. Exhaust flow determines engine power and fuel efficiency. Small piping decreases flow rates but increases gas velocity, which increases torque. There must be a balance between flow and velocity.

Piping Diameter

    High flow exhaust systems increase top-end power. However, excessively large piping allows full flow but reduces exhaust velocity. A larger amount of combustion occurs when there is a strong exhaust velocity, causing increased torque. Balancing flow and velocity optimizes engine power, fuel efficiency and strain on the engine.

Piping Shape and Length

    Bends in exhaust piping reduces flow rate and velocity. Race cars use open headers for their short length and lack of bends. Open headers expel gases directly into the air without routing it through a front pipe, catalytic converter and muffler. While street cars normally cannot use open headers because of noise and emission laws, the quicker exhaust gas releases outside, the less chance the engine loses power due to exhaust system causes.

Catalytic Converter and Muffler

    A catalytic converter filters harmful chemicals out of exhaust gas. A muffler reduces exhaust sound. High flow aftermarket catalytic converters and mufflers increase flow and velocity by reducing internal restrictions.

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Friday, November 22, 2013

Chrysler Cruiser Fault Code P1494

Chrysler Cruiser Fault Code P1494

The current industry standard for on-board diagnostics (OBD) codes is OBD-II. While Chrysler use OBD-II, they also use their own codes for specific problems. OBD-II codes start P0 followed by three digits. P1494 is a Chrysler-specific code.

Cruiser Codes

    To read error codes on a Chrysler Cruiser, turn the key between the Run position (just before Start) and the off position three times within the space of five seconds. The odometer will show the codes.

Code P1494

    Code P1494 gives the description Leak Detection Pump Switch or Mechanical Fault. Either the switch system for the leak detection pump, or the pump itself, is malfunctioning.

Significance

    Cars have an evaporative (EVAP) system to stop fuel vapors being emitted to the atmosphere. The leak detection pump (LDP) is used to check that there are no leaks in the EVAP system. As the EVAP system is meant to be pressurized, it needs to be monitored for leaks, and so the LDP or switch needs fixing or replacing.

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How to Remove the Exhaust Manifold on Nissan Datsun

Nissan Datsun was a joint venture between the two popular car companies. Together they produced some of the most fuel efficient and popular vehicles on the road. The exhaust manifold on a Nissan Datsun directs exhaust gases out of the engine and through the tailpipe. If you ever need to replace or want to upgrade your manifold to a high-flow model, remove the old one first.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood of your Nissan Datsun and remove the air cleaner assembly. There are several screw bolts holding the assembly in place. You can use either a socket wrench or a screw to remove these types of bolts.

    2

    Locate the exhaust pipe. This will be located next to the air cleaner assembly you just removed.

    3

    Unbolt the exhaust manifold where it connects to the intake manifold using the socket wrench.

    4

    Unbolt the exhaust manifold where it connects to the exhaust pipe using the socket wrench.

    5

    Pull the temperature sensors out of the manifold.

    6

    Disconnect any miscellaneous hoses from the exhaust manifold. Some models may not be equipped with them. For example, you may need to pull the EGR valve hoses off from the manifold. These hoses help recirculate the exhaust gases, but must be removed to get the manifold out. Usually, these are held in place with hose clamps. To loosen the hose clamp, unscrew the retaining screw bolt (counterclockwise) and the clamp will loosen so that you can pull the hose.

    7

    Loosen the nuts on the manifold connecting it to the engine and lift the manifold out of the engine bay.

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Hydraulic Measurement Tools

Hydraulics is an aspect of applied science and engineering that mainly deals with the mechanical properties of liquids. The liquid used in hydraulic systems is incompressible and mostly contains oil and water. This is the fluid that is used to transmit force. The hydraulic tools used for measuring hydraulic properties utilize the liquid as the powering medium. Hydraulics are widely used in the aircraft and automotive industries. There are several tools used to measure different mechanical properties of the hydraulic fluids.

Hydraulic Piezometer

    A hydraulic piezometer is designed to measure pore water pressures in fully or partially saturated soil and rock. The hydraulic piezometer has a tip which consists of a porous ceramic filter vessel. Twin hydraulic tubes to connect each of the tips to the remote reading terminal where the pressure will be read by use of a bourdon gauge. The instrument is made with non-corrosive materials. The hydraulic piezometer has the capability of measuring pressure change of up to 2000kPa.

Guelph Permeameter

    The Guelph Permeameter is a tool kit used to measure in-situ hydraulic conductivity. Hydraulic conductivity is the ability of a medium to transmit water. This tool provides accurate measurements of soil conductivity, soil sorptivity and matrix flux potential. One of the advantages of using the Guelph Permeameter is that it can be operated, assembled and transported with ease. Time taken to acquire soil hydraulic measurements depends on the soil type at a range of 15-75 centimeters below the soil surface. This kit consists of several other hydraulic measurement tools apart from the Permeameter. These tools include the preparation and clean-up tools, vacuum test hand pump, collapsible water container, a field tripod and a well auger.

Hydraulic Profiling tool

    The hydraulic profiling tool is used to evaluate the hydraulic properties of unconsolidated materials. It locates and defines the pathways used by contaminants as they move in the subsurface. It identifies target zones of remedial material, measures static water conditions across a site and selects well screen intervals. Incorporated into this tool is a sensitive transducer whose main role is to measure the response of pressure of the soil injection of water.

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Thursday, November 21, 2013

Problems With 1998 Ford Expeditions

Problems With 1998 Ford Expeditions

The 1998 Ford Expedition was the second year of the Expedition model, which continues to release new full-size SUVs as of 2011. Registered owner complaints include engine problems, suspension and transmission problems, accessories issues and electrical problems, among other issues.

Engine Problems

    The most common problems registered on 1998 Ford Expeditions involve engine problems. As many as 5 out of 10 complaints detail that the spark plug blew out of or ruined the head. Other complaints claim that the engine burns oil, misfires, stalls at idle or shudders at idle.

Suspension Problems

    The second most common complaint among 1998 Ford Expedition owners is that the air suspension fails frequently. The problem is often identified by a "sagging" back end and a "bouncy" response while driving. The average mileage of this problem and repair cost were noted to be 142,429 and $338, respectively.

Transmission Problems

    Common transmission problems of the 1998 Expedition include misaligned shift indicators, slipping transmissions and an inability to go into park. ALLDATA indicates that there has been a safety recall (TSB 97S86).

Safety Recalls

    Since 1997 there have been seven safety recalls on parts associated with the 1998 Ford Expedition, which have included recalls on exterior lights, vehicle speed control mechanisms, wheel lugs and bolts, lights, and gear position indication mechanisms, and other items. If your SUV still contains a recalled part, check with your local dealer for replacement options.

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Toyota Corolla Remote Door Lock Problems

Toyota Corolla Remote Door Lock Problems

Problems with remotely locking and unlocking a cars doors can be frustrating. Your Toyota Corolla is likely to experience remote locking issues from time to time just like all other vehicles of different makes and models. Whether your doors never unlock remotely or unlock only sometimes, you can do some quick troubleshooting to find out if the problem is with your Corolla or the remote keypad.

Keypad Battery

    Most keypads operate on AG13 button-cell batteries. These batteries are typically used in power laser pointers and other small electronic devices. If your vehicle does not respond at all when you attempt to lock it remotely -- that is, the horn wont honk and the doors wont lock -- replace the battery in your keypad.

Internal Wiring

    If you press the "lock" button on your keypad and none of the doors lock, but you are able to honk the horn, it is likely that internal wiring is the cause. This indicates that the Corolla is receiving the lock signal from the keypad but cannot execute it. Unless you are an experienced mechanic, youll need to take the car to a dealership or repair shop to fix this problem.

Keypad

    If you are seeing an inconsistent response, where sometimes the door locks remotely and sometimes it wont, the keypad itself or the keypad receiver installed in your vehicle may be to blame. Installing replacement parts yourself can be done with minimal time and effort. Many auto repair shops and online outlets sell do-it-yourself kits for this situation.

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How to Mount a Twin Cam on an Evo Hard Tail

How to Mount a Twin Cam on an Evo Hard Tail

Before you mount a Twin Cam engine on an Evoluation (Evo) hard tail, you must take into consideration the two types of Twin Cam engines. The Twin Cam 88B is balanced, and although it is theoretically possible to modify an Evo frame to accommodate a Twin Cam 88B, it is probably not worth the trouble. The Twin Cam 88A is not balanced and it is possible to mount this engine in an Evolution frame. It is irrelevant whether the frame is a bolt-on hard tail, weld-on hard tail, softail or swingarm frame. Zodiac Performance Products and Vulcan Engineering both sell motor mount adapter plates that are intended to facilitate the installation of a Twin Cam 88A in an Evo frame.

Instructions

    1

    Bolt the Zodiac adapter plate to the rear engine mount with a hex socket and socket wrench. Grind the frame mount flush with the front of the adapter plate if any part of the rear engine mount protrudes in front of the adapter plate using an angle grinder.

    2

    Bolt the adapter plate to the engine with a hex socket and socket wrench. Mark the 3/8-inch wide cast gusset that is visible through the right side adapter plate window with a mechanics awl.

    3

    Unbolt the adapter plate from the engine. Grind the marked area of the gusset flush with the engine case casting to create spanner clearance.

    4

    Place, but do not bolt, the adapter plate on the rear engine mount. Align the two dowels included with the adapter plate in the engine bottom flange.

    5

    Slide the engine into the frame. Lift the back of the engine onto the adapter plate.

    6

    Bolt the adapter plate to the engine with the 3/8 by 2-inch Allen screws and washers included with the adapter plate using an Allen socket and socket wrench.

    7

    Bolt the adapter plate to the rear motor mount with the 3/8 by 1 3/4-inch Allen screws and washers included with the adapter using a Allen socket and socket wrench.

    8

    Wrench tighten the rear engine mount and adapter bolts to 38 foot-pounds of torque with an Allen socket and torque wrench after installing the stock, front engine mount.

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How to Handle a Cutting Torch

How to Handle a Cutting Torch

Cutting torches are used in a variety of vocations from the building trades to car repair and steel mills to scrap yards. A cutting torch is simply a cutting torch head mounted on oxy-acetylene welding outfit. In fact, even though oxy-acetylene welding has given way to electric welding, there are still over 50,000 oxy-acetylene welding outfits sold each year in the United States, most of which are used as cutting torches. While most agree that operating a cutting torch is a tricky proposition in the beginning, working with a cutting torch is an easy skill to master.

Instructions

    1

    Mark a guideline with a soapstone marker on the piece of steel where the cut is to be made.

    2

    Purge the oxygen and acetylene lines by opening the valves on the acetylene torch mixing handle one at a time for 3 to 5 seconds and then closing the valve on the mixing handle. Install a cutting torch head on the mixing handle following the cutting torch manufacturers instructions. Open the oxygen cutting valve in the cutting torch head by turning the valve in a counterclockwise rotation. Open the valve all the way

    3

    Open the acetylene valve on the mixing handle 1/8 to 1/4-turn in a counterclockwise direction and hold the cutting torch nozzle in a spark lighter. Squeezing the handle of the spark lighter will drag a flint across a rough piece of steel causing sparks that will ignite the acetylene. Open the acetylene valve slowly in counterclockwise direction until the flame stops smoking. Open the oxygen valve on the mixing handle until the feather in the center of the flame disappears.

    4

    Hold the tip of the cutting torch perpendicular to the material being cut and far enough away that the inner cone of the flame is slightly above the material. Center the flame on the edge of the material that is being cut and heat the material until it is bright red-hot. Slowly depress the cutting handle until there is a shower of sparks. Depress the cutting handle completely when the flame has cut all the way through the material that is being cut and follow the line that was previously marked at a speed rapid enough to cut the material. Release the cutting handle on the cutting torch head when the cut has been made.

    5

    Shut off the torch by rotating the oxygen valve on the mixing handle in a clockwise rotation until the valve is completely closed, then turning the acetylene valve on the mixing handle in a clockwise rotation until it is closed, completing the exercise.

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Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Is There Oil in a CV Joint

Is There Oil in a CV Joint?

A CV joint is a flexible joint that transfers power to an automobiles wheel from the transmission. The CV joint is a collection of bearings that must be lubricated to resist wear to this vital part.

Lubrication Importance

    The CV joints various moving parts are subject to large amounts of stress due to the automobiles movement. This stress can cause the part to wear prematurely, which can cause an expensive repair and present a safety hazard if the joint fails while driving.

Oil in CV Joint

    Oil is not used as a lubricant for a CV joint in normal applications. The primary reason that oil is not used in CV joints is that the open bearings in the joint will not hold oil and the oil would simply drain away from the joint.

CV Joint Lubricant

    Grease is used to lubricate CV joints, since grease will stay on open bearings and not simply drain from the area. The CV joint is covered with a rubber boot that prevents the grease from picking up outside contaminants and causing undue wear.

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What Is an Exhaust Manifold Leak

What Is an Exhaust Manifold Leak?

An exhaust manifold of an internal combustion engine is the very first exhaust component bolted directly to the engine. The manifold then attaches to the front exhaust pipe, which in turn attaches to other pipes, a catalytic converter and, eventually, the muffler and tailpipe of the vehicle.

Function

    The exhaust manifold bridges the gap between the engine block and the front exhaust pipe or catalytic converter. Bolted tightly to the engine with a gasket in between the manifold and the engine block, the engines exhaust dispenses spent fuel and air into the manifold at an extremely high temperature. From there, the exhaust purges its way downstream through the remaining exhaust system and out the tailpipe. The manifold has to be made of an enduring metal such as cast iron to handle the temperature of the engines exhaust out of the block. In later-model cars that have weight restrictions, it is common to find lighter weight manifolds that can crack more easily under the stress of heating and cooling engines.

Types

    Some vehicles may have two manifolds, located on either side of the engine or stacked one in front of the other. The purpose of two manifolds may be to offer dual exhaust or simply to increase the horsepower of an engine. Leaks in a manifold are often cracks in the cast iron due to the intense temperatures of the engine. Cracks may start out as small as a hairline crack, which may be noticeable when the vehicle is first started by the volume of noise it makes near the engine. Once the manifold heats up quickly, the crack might self-seal as the metal of the manifold expands; the noise coming from the crack then becomes less noticeable. However, after time, the hairline crack will begin to increase in size due to the constant heating and cooling of the engine. The manifold gasket is another area of concern that has to sustain the expanding and contracting of the heated metal. Its symptoms may start similar to the hairline crack and could inevitably become a larger problem.

Effects

    An exhaust leak can be hazardous for several obvious reasons. While an exhaust leak downstream in the exhaust system can still be problematic, one coming directly from the manifold off the block of the engine creates a much higher risk. Carbon monoxide poisoning can occur to the occupants inside the cabin of the vehicle, especially if the windows are closed and the air vents are open, allowing the odorless and colorless gas to enter the cabin.

Identification

    The manifold is on the lower end of the vehicles engine. It may be in the front center, on the side, on both sides (dual manifolds), or front center and rear center (dual manifolds). To effectively inspect the manifold, the vehicle must be placed on a lift. Follow the exhaust system from the tailpipe to the engine to determine the location of the manifold. Some later-model vehicles may even have an initial catalytic converter bolted to the manifold and then attached to the front pipe.

Warning

    A leaking manifold is unsafe and also harmful for the environment. Because it is not filtered through a three-way catalyst or monitored by the oxygen sensors, the exhaust leaks into the atmosphere haphazardly. A cracked or leaking manifold will create less back-pressure, poor performance in the engine and decreased fuel efficiency; it will allow more pollutants to escape into the atmosphere and disperse deadly carbon monoxide. It can also damage other exhaust components downstream in the exhaust system, such as oxygen sensors, and compromise the efficiency of the catalytic converter.

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How to Replace the Radiator in a 1997 Silverado

Replacing the radiator in your 1997 Silverado is a basic automotive repair to perform. Your radiator plays an important role in the trucks overall cooling system. Its primary function is to keep the engine from overheating. As your engines temperature rises, a cooled mixture of coolant flows into the engine and reduces its temperature. Over time, the radiator becomes damaged resulting from objects hitting the front during operation. This damage can cause the water not to properly flow into the engine as necessary. Performing a routine inspection for damage can help prevent your radiator from falling and causing engine overheating.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Park the truck on a level surface, and set the parking brake. Lift the front end using a floor jack, and carefully place it onto the jack stands. Brace the rear wheels using wheel chocks as an added safety measure.

    2

    Raise the hood, remove the radiator fill cap and disconnect the negative battery cable. Place the recycling container under the radiator drain plug.

    3

    Unscrew the drain plug bolt, and drain all of the antifreeze from the radiator. Securely seal the recycling container, and safety move it to the side.

    4

    Remove the radiator safety shield (shroud) mounted on the top of the radiator. The shroud is held in place using two bolts on either side.

    5

    Remove the main intake radiator hose that attaches to the thermostat housing cover. This hose is held in place by a squeeze-type hose clamp. Detach the hose that leads to the antifreeze reservoir tank.

    6

    Make note of the lower hose connections, which include the radiator hose leading to the water pump, and also the heater core hose line. Disconnect these lower hoses held in place by squeeze clamps.

    7

    Reach underneath the truck, and remove the lower radiator mounting bolts. Then, take out the upper mounting bolts from the engine compartment and lift out the radiator.

Installation

    8

    Carefully hold the replacement radiator in place, and screw in the upper mounting screws by hand. This will hold the radiator in place and allow you to install the lower bolts.

    9

    Install the lower bolts, and securely tighten all of the mounting bolts in place. Reconnect the lower radiator and heater core hoses, and secure them in place using the hose clamps.

    10

    Connect the upper radiator and reservoir hoses and secure them using the hose clamps. Re-mount the safety shield (shroud), and secure it in place using its mounting bolts.

    11

    Start the engine, and fill the radiator with a new 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. Let the engine idle for several minutes to bleed out trapped air within the cooling system. Replace the radiator fill cap, and inspect all the connections for leaks.

    12

    Safely raise the truck and remove the floor jacks and wheel chocks. Lower the truck to the ground.

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Tuesday, November 19, 2013

How to Get a New Jeep Commander Key

How to Get a New Jeep Commander Key

You have to replace your tires, you have to change your oil and you occasionally might have to replace other parts of your Jeep Commander, but the need to replace your keys probably never occurred to you as a possibility. Unfortunately, car keys do get lost on occasion and you might find yourself in need of a new set of car keys. Fortunately, both Jeep dealerships and professional locksmiths can replace your Commanders keys in a timely fashion.

Instructions

    1

    Find the vehicle identification number (VIN) of your Commander. The VIN is located on the engine, on the inside of the drivers door panel and on the bottom left side of your windshield. You can also find your VIN in your purchase paperwork, insurance paperwork and your title or registration paperwork.

    2

    Contact your local Jeep dealership or any professional locksmith. Give them the VIN to your Commander. The VIN holds information for your specific Commander that you will need to have a replacement key made. Commander keys have internal computer chips that are linked to their specific car, and your replacement key will need to be programmed by the Jeep dealer or locksmith to respond to your Commander.

    3

    Visit the Jeep dealer or locksmith. Locksmiths can come to you if you dont have transportation to their offices or to your Jeep dealership. Wait while your car key is made and programmed and pay the fee for the services provided to you.

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How to Determine Shock Absorber Length

How to Determine Shock Absorber Length

The shock absorbers, also called dampers, keep the tires flat on the surface of the road while cushioning the ride against jarring bumps and dips. Without them, you would feel jolts and vibrations translated up to through the frame, resulting in an uncomfortable ride. Shocks come in two interior designs: the oil-filled tube and the gas-operated variety. Both do their jobs well but sooner or later require replacement because of wear and age. Knowing the proper length, size and design of replacement shocks will determine how well the shocks perform on the vehicle.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the shocks from the vehicle (the exact removal method will depend on your vehicle), and wipe them down. Examine any lettering or numbers on them. Note whether they have an aftermarket brand name printed on the tube body. A standard equipment shock has little or no writing on it and appears smaller than any aftermarket shock. To measure the shock, collapse the tube body until it seats, then measure the shock from the top shaft to the bottom of the mount with a tape measure. Write the number down. Extend the shock completely by pulling on the tube body. Measure the total length from the top shaft to the mounting bolt bracket with a tape measure. Write this number down as well.

    2

    Take one of the rear and front shocks to your local auto parts store, and study the parts (buyers) catalog with the help of the parts clerk. Compare the shock dimensions until you find one that matches the extended length (the more important measurement) and the collapsed length. Look for replacement shocks with the exact measurements for the extension length and the collapsed length. If you have difficulty finding the correct dimension in the catalog, purchase a replacement shock with no dimension shorter than the collapsed length.

    3

    Study the new shock mounting hardware to ensure the mounting bracket holes match. For older cars and trucks, ask whether the auto supply store carries an old Warshawskis or JC Whitney reference catalog.

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Catalytic Converter Components

Catalytic Converter Components

The catalytic converter in your auto exhaust system is a pollution control device designed to stop smog by turning unburned hydrocarbons and combustion byproducts of engines into normal atmospheric gases, said the PollutionIssues.com website. This device, which became mandatory in the 1980s, turns the carbon monoxide, nitric oxide and hydrocarbons of engine exhaust into carbon dioxide, nitrogen gas and water vapor. Catalytic converters have 3 main components: Catalysts, substrate and outer can.

Catalytic Elements

    In chemistry, a catalyst is a substance that triggers chemical reactions without itself being consumed by those reactions. Catalytic converters use platinum, rhodium and cerium as the catalysts that clean up exhaust gases. As exhaust gases pass through the converter, these materials get extremely hot, about 750 degrees Fahrenheit, and trigger oxidation reactions that break down passing exhaust gases into normal atmospheric gases.

Ceramic Substrate

    Inside the converter is a honeycomb-like ceramic substrate that has been coated inside and out with the catalytic elements. This structure provides a huge surface area for the oxidation reactions to occur, said PollutionIssues.com. Tetraethyl lead, once widely used as a gasoline octane booster, was removed from gasoline in the early 1980s because it would coat the substrate, blocking the catalytic reactions. In effect, lead poisoned the converter.

Outer Can

    The outer metal can holds the interior components in place. It typically is a steel cylinder with fittings to connect to the exhaust manifold at one end and the exhaust pipe at the other. The can is lined with an insulating mat to help hold in the heat that ensures efficient operation.

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Monday, November 18, 2013

How to Remove the 2001 F150 Steering Wheel

How to Remove the 2001 F150 Steering Wheel

A Ford F-150s steering wheel can be removed either for aftermarket options or for repair purposes. Because the steering wheel is in the way of the steering column and shaft, this is not the sort of task that can be done on a whim or an impulse. A specialized tool is involved.

Instructions

    1

    Pop the F-150s hood and prop it open. Disconnect the negative cable from the batterys negative terminal. Then, disconnect the positive battery cable. This disengages the F-150s airbags and restraint systems, keeping them from accidental triggering and deployment. Before proceeding, however, allow at least five minutes to pass. While you have put the airbags main power source off line, there will still be residual power within the F-150 that needs to drain off.

    2

    Disengage the battery to starter relay cable.

    3

    Pry off the oval covers over the airbag retaining screws with a small flat head screwdriver. Remove the screws underneath.

    4

    Lift the air bag unit off the steering wheel while keeping the trim cover "pointing" away from you. Even if disengage from electricity, there is still a risk of accidental deployment. Unplug the wiring around the F150s horn and air bags. Place the unit to the side, with the trim cover facing up.

    5

    Unscrew the steering wheel retaining bolt with a socket wrench and a socket wrench extension.

    6

    Mark the steering wheel and the steering wheel shaft with a marker. This will help align the steering wheel later, if you plan on reinstalling it.

    7

    Fit a two-jaw pulling tool over the steering wheel. Ensure the tool is firmly on, and adjust for tightness as needed.

    8

    Turn the two-jaw pulling tool for several rotations, until the steering wheel detaches from the steering shaft.

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2001 Dodge Stratus Alignment Specs

2001 Dodge Stratus Alignment Specs

Introduced in 1995, the Stratus is a four-door mid-sized sedan manufactured by Dodge. All Stratus models require periodic adjustment, often referred to as "alignment." The factory specifications for the alignment are the same for all 2001 Stratus models. These specifications apply to a vehicle at curb height with one-half tank of fuel.

Camber

    Measured in degrees, camber represents the outward or inward tilt of the wheel in relation to the center of the vehicle. The Accord camber angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. Camber angles must be +0.1 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.6 degrees on the front wheels and -0.1 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.4 degrees on the rear wheels.

Caster

    Caster represents both the rearward and the forward tilt of the steering knuckle from the true vertical. Caster is the measurement in angles that is responsible for directional stability. The Stratus caster angle should be the same on both rear and front wheels. The angle must be +3.1 degrees, with the maximum allowable difference of 1.0 degree.

Toe

    Toe represents the difference between the leading and trailing inside edges of the front wheels. Total toe acceptable angle is +0.1 degrees with the maximum allowable difference of 0.2 degrees.

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How to Repair a Warped Chrome Wheel

How to Repair a Warped Chrome Wheel

Driving on a flat tire, over a curb or through a pot hole will most likely result in your rim becoming bent or scratched. Operating your vehicle on a bent rim is more dangerous than you might think. Not only can it hinder your vehicles mileage and cause irregular wear on a tire but it can also lead to a blow out. The easiest and most cost effective way to repair a warped chrome rim is to fix it yourself.

Instructions

    1

    Lift the vehicle up using the car jack and remove the rim. Use a basic car jack unit if you dont have access to a hydraulic lift.

    2

    Deflate the tire and remove it from the rim. Its best to take the wheel to a tire center and have them take the tire off the rim using a hydraulic tire changer. If youre unable to reach a tire center you can manually remove the tire from the chrome rim by breaking the bead with a pry bar. Place a small piece of wood between the rim and the pry bar to avoid further damaging the rim.

    3

    Heat up the area where the rim is damaged with a blow torch for 2 minutes.

    4

    Place a wood block where the rim is bent and begin hitting it with a hammer or rubber mallet until the rim has been bent back into place. You may have to re-heat the lip of the rim several times as it tends to cool off quickly.

    5

    Reinstall the tire to the rim after the rim has been bent back to its original shape. Use soapy water or an industrial lubricant to ensure the tire slides back onto the rim quite easily.

    6

    Inflate the tire to its correct pressure and install the rim back on the vehicle.

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How to Install a New Catalytic Converter for Ford Contours

This is not to say that a backyard mechanic couldnt successfully install a new catalytic converter laying on his back underneath a Ford Contour. Its not going to be fun or pretty. There are different designs in the Ford Contour and different motors. Each type will dictate where the catalytic converter is located and determine the degree of difficulty to remove and replace the old one. Some Contours have more than one converter so assuming which type your car is and what it needs will be up to you.

Instructions

    1

    Lift the Contour on a lift all the way to the top. Load all the tools and new converter into the tool tray and bring it over near you, but keep it out of the way. Put on the safety glasses and locate the converter and determine what youre going to need and where youre going to start.

    2

    Start with the front of the converter, closest to the motor. If it is attached to the manifold, set up the pneumatic gun, extension, swivel, and the correct sized socket before lighting the torch. Make sure the gun is set to reverse.

    3

    Light the torch and heat up the manifold stud nuts and when theyre cherry red, turn off the torch, put the gun and socket on the nut and remove it. Repeat this for all the remaining nuts. If the converter is flanged to a front pipe and not the manifold, light the torch and cut the nuts and bolts out of the flange to separate the connection.

    4

    Cut the rear bolts of the catalytic converter flange connection to the center exhaust pipe with the torch. Again, cutting the bolts from the converter side of the flange connection. Cut the bolts flush or inverted into the flange and turn the torch off. You will be able to knock the remaining bolt through the rest of the flange connection with a hammer and punch if its cut correctly.

    5

    Remove the old converter and install the new one. Again, start from the front of the Contour to connect the converter and work your way back. It might be wise to allow the exhaust components heated up by the torch to cool down before proceeding. If the converter attached to the manifold place it up onto the studs with the gasket in between and thread on the new manifold stud nuts hand tight. Then re-tighten with the pneumatic gun, swivel, and socket. If it flange connected to a front pipe, place the gasket between the flanges and replace the hardware.

    6

    Bolt and flat washer on one side of the flange connection and lockwasher and nut on the other side. Tighten the nuts to the bolts with the gun and socket on the nut end and hold the bolt head with a hand wrench.

    7

    Attach the rear flange connection of the catalytic converter to the center exhaust pipe flange and replace the hardware in the same manner and tighten. If the outlet of the converter is clamp connected to the center pipe, you may need to expand the center pipe (or converter depending on whether it fit over or into the pipe) with a pipe expander

    8

    Replace the clamp and tighten with the gun and a socket. Once the converter is connected and tightened on both ends, it may be wise to lower the vehicle on the lift, start it up, and raise it back up just to check for any possible leaks coming from the flange or clamp connections.

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Sunday, November 17, 2013

Engine Rebuilding for Beginners

Engine Rebuilding for Beginners

Engine trouble in an automobile can lead to the need for a new replacement motor or the purchase of a new vehicle altogether. Each option can be quite expensive. Rebuilding an engine can be cost-effective, so it is beneficial to auto owners to have information on engine rebuilding.

Rebuild and Save

    Rebuilding an engine could save you half the cost of replacing it. Much of these savings come from the work you will have to do yourself, like breaking the motor down. Other savings can come from buying parts in a kit as opposed to buying the parts separately.

Rebuilding Tools

    Many tools will come in handy during an engine rebuild. Hand tools, such as wrenches, always are recommended. A ring compressor and expander can be used in engine rebuilding. The machine work needed on your engine will have to be performed by professionals at a machine shop, who will have the proper tools available.

Rebuilding Tips

    Not changing your oil on time could cause dirt contamination and may cause an engines crankshaft bearings to fail. Because of this and the fact that new crankshaft bearings almost always are needed during engine rebuilding, old bearings should be inspected carefully for damage.

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