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Pushrods, on the exterior of the cylinders on the right side of the engine, are part of an old-fashioned connection between the cam shaft and the exhaust and intake valves on your 2001, 883 cubic centimeter, V-twin Harley engine. Pushrods are specific to 883 and 1200 Sportster engines and Big Twins, but their operation, installation and removal is identical in all 2001 Harley V-Twin engines. Adjustable pushrods can conveniently be adjusted without having to first partially disassemble the top end of the engine. The initial top end job needed to install replacement pushrods is not for novices as clearances are tight, and many tools and some skill are required.

Instructions

1

Close the petcock. Put the motorcycle in fifth gear.

2

Loosen the fender tab screw with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat.

3

Loosen the battery cable from the negative terminal with an open end wrench. Disconnect the cable.

4

Raise the motorcycle on a motorcycle jack until the rear tire clears the ground. Ensure the bike is stable.

5

Remove the front and rear spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.

6

Rotate the engine by rotating the rear wheel. Rotate the engine until the front piston, as viewed through the spark plug hole, is at the top of its stroke and both front lifters are at their lowest point in the compression cycle.

7

Remove the front rocker box cover by loosening the rocker cover bolts with a rocker cover wrench. Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the gasket and discard.

8

Insert a small, flat head screwdriver blade into the cast loop of the spring cap retainer at the top of the rear pushrod cover for the front cylinder.

9

Rotate the screwdriver bottom toward the outboard side while pushing down. Remove the spring cap cover. Repeat the procedure for the other front cylinder pushrod.

10

Collapse the upper and lower push rod covers.

11

Alternately loosen each of the four rocker arm support plate bolts in 1/4 turn increments until all four bolts are loose. Remove the rocker arm support plate assembly.

12

Remove the push rod covers from the cylinder head and lifter cover bores. Remove the three O-rings from the push rod covers and discard.

13

Remove the pushrods by hand.

14

Assemble the new pushrod covers. Insert the pushrod cover adapters in the cover retainers.

15

Insert the new pushrods in the cylinder head and lifter cover bores. Install the new cover O-rings included with the new pushrods.

16

Replace the rocker arm support plate into the rocker housing. Loosely install the four rocker arm support plate bolts.

17

Tighten the four rocker arm support plate bolts in a cross pattern by tightening each bolt 1/4 turn at a time. Final tighten the bolts to 18 to 22 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench and a "dog bone" torque adapter.

18

Install a new rocker box cover gasket. Replace the D-ring.

19

Replace the rocker box cover. Tighten the rocker box cover bolts in a cross pattern to 20 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

20

Extend the adjusting screws to remove lash in the pushrods.

21

Compress the hydraulic unit in the exhaust lifter four complete turns and tighten the lock nut.

22

Adjust slack in the pushrod with your fingers after waiting five minutes. Repeat all procedures for the rear cylinder.

23

Replace the spark plugs and tighten them with a spark plug socket and socket wrench.

24

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Shift the motorcycle into neutral.

25

Start the motorcycle and check for leaks.

Mercedes-Benz vehicles are well known for their prestige and luxury, but despite their high reputation, they still encounter problems from time-to-time. One of the more common problems that can occur with a 2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK 320 is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. The most noticeable symptom of a faulty crankshaft position sensor on a 2001 SLK 320 is an engine that cranks but wont start. This is because the powertrain control module, or PCM, cannot determine when to fire the spark plugs inside the engine cylinders. Because the crankshaft position sensor is a non-serviceable part, it must be replaced when faulty.

Instructions

Removal

1

Engage the parking brake and open the hood. Remove the plastic engine paneling by lifting up on it until it pops loose.

2

Pull the intake tube out of the air cleaner box, and then remove the intake tube from the throttle body outlet by gently pulling on it. Pull the air cleaner housing off of the cylinder head cover and then remove the entire air cleaner assembly from the engine bay.

3

Locate the crankshaft position sensor on the back side of the engine block, next to the transmission bell housing, between the firewall and the left cylinder head. The sensor is black and has a single black wire connector attached to it.

4

Disconnect the sensors electrical connector and remove the bolt holding the sensor to the engine block. Pull the sensor out of the engine block. If it stubborn, caully remove it using a slip-joint pliers, moving slowly to ensure that the sensor doesnt break off inside the block.

Installation

5

Grease the sensor with a small amount of clean engine oil and insert it into the block until its fully-seated. Reinstall the sensors retaining bolt and tighten it to 71-inch pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Reconnect the crank sensors electrical connector.

7

Set the air cleaner assembly into position and press it down on top of the cylinder head cover until it snaps into place. Reconnect the air cleaner tube to the air box and the throttle body air housing.

8

Place the plastic engine paneling in position on top of the engine and press down on it until it locks in place. Plug the Mercedes-Benz Star Diagnosis scan tool into the vehicles communication port and run the CKP re-sync procedure.

The Toyota Tacoma was first introduced by Toyota in 1995 as a compact pickup. The dashboard can crack and fade with age and sun damage and may need to be replaced. You can replace the dash yourself on your 01 Tacoma in your home garage using a few simple tools purchased from any hardware store. To save yourself some money, check with your local auto wrecking yard to see if they have any used 01 Toyota Tacoma dashboards in good condition.

Instructions

1

Open the ashtray and push down on the metal retainer as you slide it out to remove it from the dash.

2

Wedge a flat-head screwdriver under the bezel to pry it off. The bezel is the plastic piece that surrounds the instrument panel, the radio and the air conditioning controls.

3

Open the drivers and front passengers doors. Locate the screws on the sides of the dash and remove them with a Phillips head screwdriver.

4

Remove the bolts on the kick panels under the dash on the drivers side and passengers side.

5

Pry up the dash trim by wedging a flat-head screwdriver under it and working your way around it until the dash is pried up.

6

Pull the dash forward and unplug the electrical connections attached to it. Slide the dash out of the Tacoma through the drivers door or front passengers door.

First introduced in 1976, the Accord is a mid-sized family vehicle manufactured by Honda and sold internationally. All Accord sedans require periodic adjustment, often erred to as "alignment." The factory specifications for the alignment are the same for all 2001 Accord models. These specifications stem from a vehicle at curb height with one-half tank of fuel.

Camber

Measured in degrees, camber represents the outward or inward tilt of the wheel in relation to the center of the vehicle. The Accord camber angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. Camber angles must be +0.0 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.1 degree on the front wheels and -0.30 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.1 degree on the rear wheels.

Caster

Caster represents both the rearward and the forward tilt of the steering knuckle from the true vertical. Caster is the measurement in angles that is responsible for directional stability. The Accord caster angle should be the same on both rear and front wheels. The angle must be +2.48 degrees with the maximum allowable difference of 0.1 degree.

Toe

Toe represents the difference between the leading and trailing inside edges of the front wheels. The factory specification for the 2001 Accord is 0 mm with maximum allowable difference of 2 mm (0, 1/16 inches).

A faulty thermostat can cause a number of problems, such as engine overheating and reduced cooling system efficiency. Although the thermostat is a small, inexpensive component, its absolutely critical to the proper operation of a liquid-cooled engine. The 3.0-liter engine in a 2001 Toyota Avalon contains a thermostat thats designed to open at a temperature of 176 to 183 degrees Fahrenheit. The most common thermostat fault is a failure to open. In this situation, the thermostat valve doesnt open when it should, preventing coolant from properly circulating and causing the engine to overheat.

Instructions

Removal

1

Allow the engine to cool for at least two hours to prevent burns and other injuries related to the high temperate of the engine and engine coolant.

2

Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the radiator cap and place a drain pan underneath the radiator. Loosen the drain valve with a ratchet and metric socket. Allow the coolant to drain out until the stream flowing from the radiator slows to a drip. This may take 30 minutes or more. Close the radiator drain valve. Place the drain pan under the engine, beneath the thermostat housing.

3

Remove the bolts holding the V-bank cover in place at the top of the engine with a 5 mm hex wrench. Remove the bolts holding the air cleaner hose and resonator in place with a ratchet and metric socket. Then remove the air cleaner assembly from the vehicle.

4

Squeeze the spring clamps holding the heater hoses to the water inlet with a pair of pliers and slide them down the water hoses. Pull the heater hoses off of the water inlet.

5

Disconnect the coolant temperature sensors electrical connector. Remove the nut holding the wire protector to the water inlet with a ratchet and metric socket and remove the protector from the inlet.

6

Remove the bolts holding the water inlet pipe to the water inlet with a ratchet and metric socket. Remove the water inlet pipe from the water inlet.

7

Remove the nuts holding the water inlet to the cylinder head, then remove the water inlet from the cylinder head. Remove the thermostat from the inlet.

Installation

8

Install a new gasket onto the new thermostat. Set the water pump inside the cylinder head opening so that the small jiggle valve on top of the in line with the top-center water inlet valve mounting stud.

9

Set the water inlet valve onto the cylinder head so the cylinder head studs pass through the holes in the water inlet. Install the water inlet nuts and tighten them to 69 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Remove the old O-ring from the water inlet pipe. Install a new O-ring on the water inlet pipe and coat it with soapy water. Install the water inlet pipe into the water inlet, then install the water inlet pipe mounting bolt into the cylinder head and torque it to 14 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

11

Set the engine wire protector into position and reinstall its retaining nut with a ratchet and metric socket. Reconnect the coolant temperature sensors electrical connector.

12

Connect both heater hoses to the water inlet. Squeeze the spring clamps with a pair of pliers and slide them down the hoses and release the pliers when they are in their original position.

13

Set the air cleaner and resonator assembly into position and reinstall its retaining bolts. Set the V-bank cover into position and reinstall its retaining bolts with a 5 mm hex wrench.

14

Fill the radiator with a 50/50 mixture of Toyota Long Life Coolant and distilled water until it reaches the top. Replace the radiator cap and fill the coolant reservoir with the same mixture until it reaches the FULL mark. Start the engine and allow it to come up to operating temperature. Check for coolant leaks and then re-check the coolant level. Add coolant if necessary to raise the coolant level to the FULL mark on the side of the coolant reservoir.

Oldsmobile, in an attempt to tap into the younger market in the late 1990s, released the compact and somewhat sporty Alero, which the maker based on the same platform as the Pontiac Grand Am. The Alero ended up being the last Oldsmobile to ever roll off an assembly line, as Olds closed up shop in mid-2004. The 2001 Alero came standard with a 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine that produces a respectable 150 horsepower. The catalytic converter on the Alero is part of the front pipe, so replacing the catalytic converter requires replacing the entire catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly.

Instructions

Removal

1

Park the Alero on a flat surface and allow it to sit until the engine is cool to the touch. Allow the vehicle to sit for an additional hour to allow the exhaust and catalytic converter to cool completely.

2

Lift the front of the Alero with a floor jack and slide jack stands under the vehicles subframe. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

3

Crawl under the center of the Alero and find the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly, the long pipe that the catalytic converter is a part of.

4

Find the oxygen sensor screwed into the pipe just behind the catalytic converter. Trace the sensors wiring up to the engine compartment until you find the harness that connects it to the Aleros wiring harness. From inside the engine compartment, unplug the sensors harness from the vehicles harness.

5

Position yourself back under the vehicle and remove the oxygen sensor from the pipe, using a ratchet and oxygen sensor socket. If the oxygen sensor is seized, spray its base with penetrating oil and allow the oil to sit for the amount of time specified by the oil manufacturer, then remove the sensor.

6

Slide two jack stands under the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly to support it. Remove the bolts securing the intermediate pipe -- the pipe behind the catalytic converter -- to the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly, using a ratchet and socket.

7

Unfasten the bolts securing the front of the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly to the exhaust manifold, using a ratchet and socket. Lower the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly onto the jack stands.

8

Pull the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly out front under the vehicle. Remove the old gaskets from the exhaust manifold flange and intermediate pipe flange, if needed. Clean the mating surface on each flange with a wire brush.

Installation

9

Crawl back under the Alero, bringing the new catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly along with you. Set the assembly on the jack stands in its mounting position.

10

Line up the bolt holes in the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assemblys flange with those in the exhaust manifolds flange. Slide a new gasket between the two flanges, aligning the bolt holes in the gasket with those in the flanges, then hand-thread the retaining bolts.

11

Align the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly rear flanges bolt holes with those on the intermediate pipes flange. Slide a new gasket between the flanges and align the bolt holes on the gasket with those in the flanges. Hand-tighten the retaining bolts.

12

Tighten the front catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly bolts to 33 foot-pounds and the rear catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly bolts to 25 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.

13

Apply a coat of anti-seize compound to the oxygen sensors threads and thread the sensor into the new catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly. Torque the oxygen sensor to 30 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and oxygen sensor socket.

14

Route the oxygen sensors wiring back toward the Aleros wiring harness in the engine compartment, then crawl out from under the vehicle. From inside the engine compartment, plug the oxygen sensors wiring harness to the Aleros harness.

15

Raise the vehicle off the jack stands and remove the stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

The air intake plenum is one of the components of a vehicles intake manifold system. It works with the air that is supplied with the fuel that combines in the combustion process to power the engine. The plenum is mounted on the Ford Windstars intake manifold; its exact position can vary depending on the engine type. It is connected to the throttle body, and you will need to remove the throttle body in order to remove the plenum.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the vans negative battery cable, using a wrench on the black cables clamp nut, and then disconnect the electrical connectors to the throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve.

2

Unclamp and remove the outlet tube from the air cleaner assembly, loosening the clamps with a screwdriver. Disconnect the accelerator cables return spring and the end of the cruise control cable from the throttle lever, then unbolt and remove the cable bracket.

3

Remove the four mounting bolts from the throttle body, and remove the body. Discard the gasket.

4

Label and detach the vacuum lines from the plenum, EGR valve and fuel pressure regulator, and the EGR valve from the plenum. Remove the PVC vent hose from the plenum and the valve from the valve cover.

5

Unplug the spark plug wires from the front bank of the engine and lay them on the top of the firewall back.

6

Remove the bolts from the intake plenum with your wrench, starting with the bolts on each side and working your way to the middle bolts. Separate the plenum from the intake manifold.

The Honda Accord is a mid-size car that has been in production since 1976. The 2001 model belongs to the sixth generation of this series, which includes Accords made from 1998 to 2002. The 2001 Honda Accord typically has a four-cylinder 2.3-liter engine with multi-point fuel injection. This engine uses a timing belt to keep the camshaft synchronized with the crankshaft. The procedure for replacing the timing belt requires you to set the crankshaft to the top dead center (TDC) position several times.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the valve cover and upper covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Remove any additional components needed to access the crankshaft. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the white mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the lower cover of for the timing belt. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

2

Remove the lower timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Fasten one of the mounting bolts for the lower timing cover to the adjuster arm of the timing belt tensioner. This will hold the timing belt adjuster in position.

3

Loosen the lock bolt and adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench, and push the tensioner away from the timing belt to relieve the tension on the timing belt. Tighten the adjuster nut on the timing belt, and pull the timing belt off its sprockets.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the pointer on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the oil pump. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

5

Mount the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner sprocket, water pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order. Loosen the adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench, then tighten it again to apply tension to the timing belt.

6

Install the lower timing belt cover with a socket wrench, and rotate the crankshaft sprocket five to six complete turns clockwise to seat the timing belt on the sprockets. Make sure the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket aligns with the timing mark on the lower timing cover. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

7

Turn the adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise by one turn. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to move the camshaft sprocket back by three teeth, and tighten the adjusting nut on the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks once again.

8

Install the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Connect all additional components you removed to access the crankshaft. Replace the valve cover.

Mercurys 2001 Sable uses an oil pressure sending unit mounted in an oil galley in the engine block to detect oil pressure within the engine. The sending unit in the 3.0-liter engine is a normally-closed switch that completes the low oil pressure warning lamp circuit to ground and illuminating the lamp when there is insufficient oil pressure. When oil pressure within the galley reaches the specified pressure, the switch opens and interrupts the low oil pressure lamp ground circuit, turning the lamp off. Illumination of the low oil pressure lamp can indicate a bad sending unit, bad connection at the sending unit wire, or a more serious condition within the engine that is lowering the oil pressure.

Instructions

Overhead Valve 3.0-Liter Engine

1

Locate the oil sending unit on the rear left side of the engine block above the flywheel. Disconnect the oil sending unit electrical connector.

2

Remove the oil sending unit, using a ratchet and socket.

3

Wrap the threads on the new oil sending unit with Teflon tape, or equivalent electrically conductive sealer. Make certain the tape does not cover the end of the oil sending units sensor that penetrates the engine oil galley.

4

Thread the new oil sending unit into the engine block. Tighten the sensor to 14 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket. Connect the oil sending unit electrical connector.

5

Start the engine. Make certain the low oil pressure warning lamp on the dash instrument cluster goes off after the engine starts. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature and check the sending unit for leaks.

Dual Overhead Cam 3.0-Liter Engine

6

Park the vehicle on firm, level ground. Engage the parking brake. Raise the vehicle using a jack and support it on jack stands. Chock the rear wheels.

7

Locate the oil sending unit on the left side of the engine above the oil filter. Disconnect the oil sending unit electrical connector.

8

Hold the adapter pipe in the engine block in place using an open-end wrench. Remove the oil sending unit from the adapter pipe, using a ratchet and socket.

9

Wrap the threads on the new oil sending unit with Teflon tape, or equivalent electrically conductive sealer. Make certain the tape does not cover the end of the oil sending units sensor that penetrates the engine oil galley.

10

Thread the new oil sending unit into the adapter pipe. While holding the adapter pipe in place with the wrench, tighten the oil sending unit to 10 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

11

Connect the oil sending unit electrical connector.

12

Raise the Sable with the jack, and then remove jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

13

Start the engine. Make certain the low oil pressure warning lamp on the dash instrument cluster goes off after the engine starts. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature and check the sending unit for leaks.

Replacing the headlight on a 2001 Dodge Dakota requires the same procedure used on 1997 to 2004 models. The Dakota uses a single bulb for the drivers side and passenger side with two elements---one for low beam and one for high beam. If one of the elements in a single bulb burn out, the bulb still needs to be replaced. While getting to the drivers side bulb does not require the removal of the headlight assembly, the passenger side does. The air box assembly also can be removed in order to access the headlight.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Dodge Dakota after making sure the interior headlight switch is in the off position.

2

Approach the headlight assembly that contains the faulty headlight.

3

Remove the rubber gasket seal from the inside edge of the headlight assembly by unsnapping its retainers.

4

Locate the retaining screw at the lower junction of the corner marker lens and headlight assembly and remove it with the T-10 Torx head screwdriver.

5

Use the screwdriver or pry tool to gently unseat the guide pin holding the corner marker lens and running-lights lens assembly from the truck. The guide pin is located at the top behind the corner marker lens. Disconnect the driving lights and corner marker lights from the assembly by turning them a quarter turn counterclockwise and pull them out of the assembly.

6

Remove the three headlight-assembly retaining screws with the ratchet, extension and 10-mm socket. One is located on the upper inner corner; the next is located at the lower inner corner, and the last one is located at the bottom center.

7

Pull the headlight assembly forward enough to reach behind it and disconnect the wire harness plug from the back of the headlight socket.

8

Turn the retaining ring of the headlight a quarter turn counterclockwise to align the retaining tabs of the ring to the release grooves of the assembly and remove the headlight from the assembly and ring.

9

Install the replacement 9007 combination headlight into the ring and then into the headlight assembly. Be careful not to touch the glass bulb of the replacement headlight. Contact with the bulb with skin will create a weakened "hot spot" on the bulb and cause it to expire prematurely.

10

Reconnect the wire harness plug to the headlight socket and reverse the headlight assembly, corner marker or running-light assembly and rubber gasket sealer procedures to restore and finish the job.

Jeep had several recalls on various 2001 models, including the Wrangler, Cherokee and Grand Cherokee. Most of these recalls were for similar defects across all models, but some recalls were for problems found on particular Jeep vehicles. Two of the largest recalls came on all three Jeep models, affecting more than 1 million vehicles.

Jeep Wrangler

The 2001 Jeep Wrangler was one of the models that was recalled for child-seat and fuel-injection problems. These two recalls were part of the 1 million Jeeps recalled by the manufacturer, and were two of seven problems found on the Wrangler. A child-seat could not be anchored properly to the Wranglers seats according to Federal Motor Safety Standards requirements. The Wrangler was also part of the massive recall of Jeeps for an exhaust and manifold problem concerning the fuel-injection system. The intake of the manifold was allowing debris to accumulate in the engine, which could result in a fire. The 2001 Jeep Wrangler was also recalled for problems with the fuel pump, ignition switch, exterior lighting problems, master cylinder problems and roof-rack latches.

2001 Jeep Cherokee

There were eight different recalls issued for the 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Two of the recalls were part of the 1-million vehicle recall that was seen on the Wrangler and Grand Cherokee concerning the child seat and manifold. Four other recalls on the Cherokee were for problems with the exterior lighting. All four of the exterior-lighting recalls dealt with insufficient illumination of the headlights and reflectors on the Cherokee. Another problem with the Cherokee concerned the master cylinder leaking brake fluid. The internal seal on the master cylinder was losing flexibility in low temperatures, causing brake fluid to leak. The last recall on the Jeep Cherokee was for the plastic grommet on the fuel pump. This grommet connector degraded or corroded, because it was not compatible with gasoline. This caused the grommet to degrade to the point of leaking gasoline.

2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Ten different recalls were issued for the 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Eight dealt with the same problems seen in the Wrangler and Cherokee, including the child-seat and fuel-injection problems, but two were different. One of the recalls was for only 626 Grand Cherokees concerning the steering gear box. A nut was coming loose, causing the steering wheel to lock. The other recall, which was different than the other Jeep recalls, was for Grand Cherokees equipped with heated seats. The heating elements were overheating to the point where they could create a fire hazard or burn the passenger.

The Caravan is a minivan that Chrysler Group sells under its Dodge brand. Chrysler introduced the Caravan in 1984, and the the 2001 model belongs to the fourth generation of this series. The 2001 Dodge Caravan is available with six-cylinder engines that require timing chains. These engines have a single overhead camshaft, and a displacement of 3.3 or 3.8 liters. The timing chain does not wear out and should only require replacement if it breaks.

Instructions

1

Drain the coolant from the radiator into a drain pan. Drain the oil from the crankcase into a separate drain pan. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the right wheel and splash shield under the engine with a socket wrench.

2

Detach the oil pick up tube from the oil pan and disconnect the oil pan. Remove the drive belt from the air compressor and disconnect the damper from the crankshaft. Detach the lower hose from the radiator and remove the heater hose from the cover of the timing chain.

3

Disconnect the engine mount and its bracket from the right side of the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the water pump and power steering support bolt from the timing chain cover. Disconnect the mounting bolts from the timing chain cover and detach the cover. Discard the gasket for the timing chain cover.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored link on the timing chain. Disconnect the attaching bolt for the camshaft sprocket with a socket wrench. Remove the timing chain and the camshaft sprocket. Disconnect the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft with special tools 5048-1, 5048-6 and 8539.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until its timing arrow points straight up. Lubricate the new timing chain and the sprockets with engine oil. Place the timing chain onto the camshaft sprocket so that the plated link aligns with the dot on the camshaft sprocket.

6

Put the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket so that the other plated link on the timing chain aligns with the dot on the crankshaft sprocket. Position the camshaft so that its timing arrow points straight down and install the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft. Tighten the bolt on the camshaft sprocket 40 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

7

Install the crankshaft sprocket on the the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft two full turns and align its timing marks once again.

8

Clean the mating surfaces n the timing chain with a shop towel. Install a new gasket onto the timing chain cover so the edge of the gasket is 0.02 in. past the edge of the cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the flats of the oil pump drive are vertical. Install the oil pump to the crankshaft so that the flats of the oil pump rotor align with the flats of the crankshaft.

9

Replace the timing chain cover and fasten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Tighten the 8mm bolts to 20 ft. lbs. and tighten the 10mm bolts to 40 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the water pump and bolt for the power steering support to the timing chain cover. Replace the damper to the crankshaft.

10

Install the bracket for the engine mount. bracket with a socket wrench. Tighten the 10mm bolts to 40 ft. lbs. and tighten the 8mm bolts to 21 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the remaining components by performing steps one and two in reverse order. Fill the radiator with fresh coolant, and fill the engine with new oil. Start the engine and correct any fluid leaks.

A Ford F-150s steering wheel can be removed either for aftermarket options or for repair purposes. Because the steering wheel is in the way of the steering column and shaft, this is not the sort of task that can be done on a whim or an impulse. A specialized tool is involved.

Instructions

1

Pop the F-150s hood and prop it open. Disconnect the negative cable from the batterys negative terminal. Then, disconnect the positive battery cable. This disengages the F-150s airbags and restraint systems, keeping them from accidental triggering and deployment. Before proceeding, however, allow at least five minutes to pass. While you have put the airbags main power source off line, there will still be residual power within the F-150 that needs to drain off.

2

Disengage the battery to starter relay cable.

3

Pry off the oval covers over the airbag retaining screws with a small flat head screwdriver. Remove the screws underneath.

4

Lift the air bag unit off the steering wheel while keeping the trim cover "pointing" away from you. Even if disengage from electricity, there is still a risk of accidental deployment. Unplug the wiring around the F150s horn and air bags. Place the unit to the side, with the trim cover facing up.

5

Unscrew the steering wheel retaining bolt with a socket wrench and a socket wrench extension.

6

Mark the steering wheel and the steering wheel shaft with a marker. This will help align the steering wheel later, if you plan on reinstalling it.

7

Fit a two-jaw pulling tool over the steering wheel. Ensure the tool is firmly on, and adjust for tightness as needed.

8

Turn the two-jaw pulling tool for several rotations, until the steering wheel detaches from the steering shaft.

Introduced in 1995, the Stratus is a four-door mid-sized sedan manufactured by Dodge. All Stratus models require periodic adjustment, often referred to as "alignment." The factory specifications for the alignment are the same for all 2001 Stratus models. These specifications apply to a vehicle at curb height with one-half tank of fuel.

Camber

Measured in degrees, camber represents the outward or inward tilt of the wheel in relation to the center of the vehicle. The Accord camber angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. Camber angles must be +0.1 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.6 degrees on the front wheels and -0.1 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.4 degrees on the rear wheels.

Caster

Caster represents both the rearward and the forward tilt of the steering knuckle from the true vertical. Caster is the measurement in angles that is responsible for directional stability. The Stratus caster angle should be the same on both rear and front wheels. The angle must be +3.1 degrees, with the maximum allowable difference of 1.0 degree.

Toe

Toe represents the difference between the leading and trailing inside edges of the front wheels. Total toe acceptable angle is +0.1 degrees with the maximum allowable difference of 0.2 degrees.

The 2001 Chevrolet Silverados onboard computer uses Chevrolets latest version of OBD-II software as of the 2001 model year. As Chevrolet engineers discover new ways to program the Silverado for heightened fuel efficiency and lowered emissions, Chevrolet makes software updates available to GM dealership service personnel. While it is possible to purchase a scan tool or laptop capable of performing the update, you can only download the update from General Motors servers with an operating license that only dealership service departments are allowed to purchase.

Instructions

1

Climb into the 2001 Chevrolet Silverado with the scan tool equipped with the latest software update download.

2

Plug the scan tool or laptops datalink cable into the diagnostic reader port under the drivers side of the Silverados dashboard. The port looks like a printer cable port and is a perfect mate to the end of the datalink cable. Turn the ignition to the run position with the ignition key.

3

Follow your specific scan tool or laptops directions for updating the Silverados OBD-II software. Perform the update per those directions.

4

Disconnect the datalink cable by hand. Turn the Silverados ignition off and remove the ignition key.

The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or airbag light on a 2001 Mazda B3000 is designed to alert the driver to malfunctions in the airbag system. The light may illuminate on the instrument panel for reasons unrelated to the airbag, or it may illuminate because of a real problem that needs to be addressed. If you have recently replaced the vehicles battery or installed a new stereo, theres a good chance that the airbag just needs to be reset. Perform the following steps to shut off the light. If the light turns itself back on, then you should take it to a qualified mechanic to have the airbag system examined.

Instructions

1

Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ACC" position then turn it off again. Do this 10 times quickly but do not start the engine. If this procedure does not reset the SRS light, proceed to Step 2.

2

Locate the fuse panel cover on the drivers side dashboard. Open the panel by pulling down on the cover from the top by hand. Locate the SRS fuse by referring to the fuse diagram. Pull the fuse out with the fuse puller and examine it to see if it has blown. If it has, replace it. This should reset the light. If not, proceed to Step 3.

3

Pop the hood on your Mazda B3000 and loosen the bolt on the negative cable clamp with a pair of pliers. Slip the clamp off the negative battery terminal, taking care not to let it touch anything. Wait about 10 minutes then reconnect it to the terminal and tighten the bolt. Close the hood and start the engine. Examine the instrument panel to verify that the SRS light has shut off.

While it can be uncomfortable to get into your Accord and discover that your blower motor is not working, you can feel better knowing that its a simple repair that you can take on at home. When the blower motor stops working, no amount of manipulation of the system will make warm air come through the vents. Before rushing to replace the blower motor, you may be able to check the connections and see if that fixes the problem.

Instructions

1

Locate the blower motor under the dashboard of your Accord. The motor is located just to the right of center in the footwell of your car.

2

Remove the screws from the blower motor cover by turning them counterclockwise with the Phillips screwdriver. These screws are located on the bottom of the blower motor cover.

3

Pull down on the blower motor cover to gain access to the blower motor assembly.

VW Beetles made after 1996 come standard with an On-Board Diagnostic Second Edition computer (OBD II). There are sensors positioned throughout the vehicle that monitor all the vital functions of the car and report back to the main computer in the form of trouble codes. If the check engine light wont turn off on your New Beetle, it is because it has not been reset or the problem that triggered the check engine light has not yet been fixed. Best thing to do is to buy or borrow a diagnostic code scanner, use it to read the trouble codes, look up what the trouble codes mean in a repair manual, have the Beetle repaired, then use the diagnostic code scanner to turn off the check engine light.

Instructions

1

Find the diagnostic port located under the dashboard and under the heating controls. Plug the connector end of the diagnostic code scanner into this port. Dont push it in too forcefully; just turn it until it fits. If you force it, you may bend the pins inside the plug.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to "Run," but dont start the engine. This will power on the diagnostic code scanner.

3

Press "Scan for Trouble Codes" on the scanner. Wait for the scanner to do its work. When it has finished, press "Clear All Trouble Codes." Turn off the vehicle and disconnect the diagnostic code scanner. Wait a minute or two.

4

Turn on the engine and examine the instrument panel to make sure the check engine light has turned off. If it has not, the problem that triggered the light remains and needs to be fixed.

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, as the name implies, recirculates some of the exhaust gases that are emitted from your Honda Odyssey. The EGR valve cools down the gases and runs them through the engine a second time. This allows greater fuel efficiency and helps reduce emissions. If your Odyssey is idling rough or does not accelerate as it should, an EGR valve could be causing the problem.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal. Make sure that the cable connector cannot touch metal to prevent accidental electrical shorts in the Odyssey.

2

Locate the EGR valve. Look for the vehicle vacuum schematic on the underside of the hood or consult an Odyssey repair manual. Usually, the vacuum wires are green; however, if an aftermarket hose has been installed, this may not be the case. Assuming that you are working with the original equipment, follow the green hose to the EGR valve.

3

Remove the vacuum hose and unclip the electrical connectors from the EGR valve. Remove the bolts holding the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold. These likely will be 10 mm bolts, but they could be 12 mm if theyve been replaced with aftermarket parts. Use a ratchet with an extension to remove the bolts.

4

Unbolt the EGR valve piece from the exhaust manifold tube that delivers the gas back into the combustion system. You will need a large crescent wrench for this step. If the bolt sticks or is rusty -- and only if the engine is cold -- use a few bursts of PB Blaster spray penetrating lubricant on the bolt and give it a few taps with the wrench. This will allow the spray to work into the threads of the bolt.

5

Examine the area from which you removed the old valve for carbon deposits. Use a generous amount of Carb Cleaner and scrape the deposits off with a small brush. Inspect the gasket for wear, carbon deposits or cracks. If the replacement EGR valve you bought was an OEM product, a new replacement gasket should be included.

6

Install the new gasket and EGR valve. Reconnect all the parts in the reverse order that you removed them. You may want to spray some anti-seize lubricant on the bolts as you reinstall them. This will make removing the bolts in the future an easier task.

Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery terminal. Then, drive your Honda Odyssey a short distance. If you are still experiencing the same issues, you may need to replace the exhaust manifold or clean out the carbon deposits.

The Hyundai Accent is a subcompact car that has been in production since 1994. The engine in this vehicle has an overhead camshaft, which generally requires a timing belt. The timing belt synchronizes the movements of the crankshaft and camshaft. The 2001 Hyundai Accent has a non-freewheeling engine, so you will typically need to replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles. This procedure requires you to remove additional components to access the timing belt.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Put a drain pan under the radiator and remove the drain plug, allowing the coolant to drain out. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and push the pulley aside. Turn the belt tensioner to loosen the drive belt. Disconnect the crankshaft pulley and the cover for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the No. 1 piston to the top dead center position. Loosen the bolts on the tensioner with a socket wrench and move the tensioner as close to the water pump as possible. Tighten the adjusting bolt for the tensioner to hold it in place. Remove the timing belt from its pulley. Disconnect the sprocket bolt for the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Detach the flange and sprocket from the crankshaft.

3

Install the sprocket and flange to the crankshaft. Torque the sprocket bolt to between 103 and 111 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Align the timing marks on the crankshaft with those on the camshaft sprocket by turning the crankshaft clockwise.

4

Loosen the adjusting bolt on the belt tensioner and move the tensioner back to its normal position. Place the new timing belt over the sprocket of the crankshaft and slip the back of the belt onto the tensioner. Turn the sprocket of the camshaft clockwise to tighten the straight side of the belt.

5

Tighten the adjusting bolt for the tensioner to between 15 and 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Then, torque the pivot bolt to between 15 and 18 foot-pounds. Turn the crankshaft clockwise one complete turn to seat the timing belt.

6

Loosen the attaching bolts on the tensioner and allow the tensioner to position itself. Tighten the bolts with a socket wrench. Adjust the belt tension so that the teeth come halfway across the head of the tensioner adjusting bolt when you pull the belt towards the water pump.

7

Connect the cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench and connect the crankshaft pulley. Fasten the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and refill the radiator with coolant. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.