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Stray rocks flying up from the road can easily chip the paint on a car. Ignoring rock chips leaves you more than the unsightly nicks; the chipped areas can get bigger and start to rust, too, leading to greater problems down the road. Fixing the chips is, however, a task that is neither onerous nor exceedingly time consuming. The sooner you fix the chips, the better your car will look and the more protected from rust it will be.

Instructions

1

Clean off the area of the car that has the rock chips in it. Use soap and water to remove debris. Allow time for the car to dry.

2

Sand down the chipped area with sand paper that is 1500- to 2000-grit. This will help to remove any loose paint from the chipped area. It will also help the paint to adhere to the area.

3

Wipe off the sanded area with a damp, lint-free cloth. Using the lint-free cloth will help to make sure that no threads or cloth get stuck in the chipped area.

4

Apply paint that matches your car color. Paint stores can match the color using a small chip, or you can call your car manufacturer to find out what colors were used on your car in the year that it was produced. Paint the chip and paint the area around the chip as well. Allow time to dry between coats before applying another coat. Three to four coats is typically sufficient.

5

Sand down the area. Use sandpaper to get the paint in the chipped area level with the rest of the car surface. Avoid sanding any area to which you have not applied paint, as those areas do not have the extra paint applied that you need to sand down.

6

Apply rubbing compound and buff the area with a soft rag. This will help the paint to blend in better and have a polish to it.

7

Apply wax or polish to protect the new paint.

Car key remotes are helpful because they allow you to lock and unlock your vehicles doors and trunk from afar. They also eliminate the need to locate that tiny little key slot on your car when youre parked in a dark driveway or in the rain. It can be annoying when your car remote breaks, but it is an easy fix.

Instructions

1

Call your car dealership. All car manufacturers feature links on their websites, where you can input your ZIP code to search for the dealer nearest you.

2

Ask to speak to someone in the maintenance department. Explain in detail the issues you are having with your car remote. Sometimes the issue is one that is easily fixable and the mechanic can talk you through the process of fixing it over the phone. If its not, youll need to take the remote to the dealership.

3

Give the remote to a mechanic and ask whether you should wait in the reception area or come back later for the remote.

Vibration causes threaded fasteners to work loose. This allows parts to become unstable and possibly fall free of each other. Permatex threadlocker creates a bond between the female and male threads of a connection. Properly applying Permatex threadlocker to the connection before assembly provides the fasteners with the bond needed to avoid failure of the connection when subjected to vibration.

Instructions

1

Clean the female threads of the connection by sliding a round wire brush into the opening, twisting the handle of the brush and pulling the brush from the threaded hole.

2

Remove debris from the male threads of the connection by running over the threads with a wire brush.

3

Spray aerosol part cleaner on the cleaned male and female threads. Allow the part cleaner to dry for 10 to 15 minutes.

4

Apply part primer to all prepared threads entering the connection. Allow the primer to dry for 15 to 20 minutes.

5

Remove the cap from the Permatex threadlocker. Tilt the nozzle of the threadlocker toward the female threads of a deep threaded hole or the male threads of a bolt and nut connection. Squeeze the bottle of threadlocker to apply a generous amount of product to the threads.

6

Connect the male and female threads of the connection using standard connecting methods.

7

Clean excess Permatex threadlocker from the area surrounding the connection with aerosol part cleaner and a clean rag.

Since 1926 Mercedes-Benz have been selling all over the world, making them one of the most well-known luxury brands of all time. When you purchase a Mercedes-Benz vehicle from any dealership you are given two car keys and a valet key, which is used strictly for parking and will not open your trunk and/or glove compartment. If you lose your keys or you decide youd like an additional key for your Mercedes, you must contact an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership.

Instructions

1

Contact your local Mercedes-Benz dealership. Your 1995 E320 comes with a keyless entry system that requires a special key manufactured by Mercedes-Benz USA to operate the vehicle.

2

Provide Mercedes-Benz with the vehicle identification number, or VIN, and the year of your Mercedes E320. The VIN is located on all of your purchase paperwork, insurance cards and on the door panel of the drivers door. MB needs your VIN because it contains the key code for your specific vehicle, which lets them know exactly how to cut your new key to make it work with your MB.

3

Pick up your new key from Mercedes. Before you pay for and leave with your key you must be able to prove you own the vehicle by providing proof of ownership. Photo identification along with your purchase paperwork, title, registration and/or insurance card are all acceptable.

Most cars today come standard with halogen headlights. When shopping for a new halogen light, the auto shop will have a book to look up the bulb needed for your vehicle, but you may want to know the amperage of the bulb, especially if you have non-factory headlamps.

55-Watt Bulb

A 55-watt bulb run at 12 volts and draws 4.58 amps. These bulbs typically provide about 4,000 candela -- a measurement of light intensity. While they use only 55 watts, these halogen bulbs deliver 100 to 125 watts of light. 55-watt bulbs are typically used for standard headlights.

60-Watt Bulb

A 60-watt halogen bulb draws 5 amps of power. These bulbs have an intensity of about 4,000 candela and deliver around 135 watts of light. High beam headlights generally use a 60-watt bulb.

35-Watt Bulb

A 35-watt halogen bulb running at 12 volts draws 2.92 amps. These lamps are typically used as fog lights and deliver 70 watts of light while using only 35 watts of power.

45-Watt Bulb

A 45-watt bulb draws 3.75 amps of power running at 12 volts. These lamps deliver 95 watts of light. The 45-watt bulb is used in some vehicles as the standard headlight bulb.

Mechanical devices that use high rotational force can harm power transmission systems when rotational speed changes rapidly. Heavy machinery often employs the use of hydraulic fluid couplings to prevent this. Hydraulic fluid couplings transmit rotational force between two separate axes and are commonly found in automobiles and large machinery.

How it Works

Hydraulic fluid couplings transfer rotational force from a transmitting axis to a receiving axis. The coupling consists of two toroids -- doughnut-shaped objects -- in a sealed container of hydraulic fluid. One toroid is attached to the driving shaft and spins with the rotational force. The spinning toroid moves the hydraulic fluid around the receiving toroid. The movement of the fluid turns the receiving toroid and thus turns the connected shaft.

Efficiency

Although fluid couplings use hydraulic fluid within their construction, the mechanism loses a portion of its force to friction and results in the creation of heat. No fluid coupling can run at 100 percent efficiency. Excessive heat production from poorly maintained couplings can result in damage to the coupling and surrounding systems.

Applications

Fluid couplings are commonly used in the automobile industry to replace mechanical clutches. The coupling transfers the force from the engine to the transmission to move the vehicle. Torque converters, a type of fluid coupling with additional features, have replaced basic fluid couplings in automobiles. Hydraulic fluid couplings have also found use in marine machinery and heavy industry.

The 2010 Subaru Outback came in six trims, but the rear alignment specs were the same for all. However, the alignment specs for 2010 should not be applied to other model years. For instance, the rear wheels of a 2010 Outback should have toe-in, while the rear wheels of a 2009 Subaru should have toe-out. This is significant, as inaccurate toe settings are the leading cause of tire wire due to misaligned wheels. Also, the caster is not adjustable on the rear end of the 2010 Outback.

Camber

The camber angle is the measurement of the way a wheel tilts as it is viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle. If the top tilts outward, away from the center of the vehicle, then the wheel has positive camber. If the wheel tilts inward, toward the center of the vehicle, the the wheel has negative camber. The ideal camber angle setting for the rear end of the 2010 Subaru Outback is zero but it can range by 0.75 degrees in either direction.

Toe

Toe is the angle of a wheel in relation to the centerline of a vehicle. Most vehicles are designed for a wheel to have toe-in, meaning the fronts of the wheels will angle slightly inward toward the centerline of the vehicle. Toe-in is given in positive degrees or inches, while toe-out is given in negative degrees or inches. The toe-in on the rear end of a 2010 Subaru Outback should be set at +0.17 degrees, but it can range by 0.25 degrees in either direction. Tires should wear less the closer they are set to the ideal angle.

Thrust Angle

As with toe, thrust angle is related to the way that the wheels are angled in relation to centerline of the vehicle. However, thrust angle ers specifically to the angle of the rear wheels. It is never adjustable on the front end, and on vehicles where the toe is not adjustable on the rear end, the thrust angle must be compensated for by adjusting the toe on the front end. The thrust angle on the rear end of the 2010 Subaru Outback should be +0.5 degrees.

The fuel pump switch is also known as the inertia switch, a device that prevents fuel from going to the engine if your 1991 Ford Explorer happens to get into a collision. It also enables the fuel pressure to be relieved.

Location

The inertia switch can be found mounted on the floor pan on the passenger side inside your Explorer; look below the heater unit. It will have an electrical connector attached to it.

Servicing the Fuel System

Disconnect the electrical connector that is attached to the inertia switch when performing a task such as relieving the fuel pressure on your Ford Explorer. Whenever youve finished servicing the fuel system, reattach the electrical connector to the switch. You do not need any tool for removing and attaching the connector.

Reset Button

The inertia switch also has a reset button at the top to use in the event the switch was activated during a procedure like relieving the fuel pressure, which would create a popping-like sound. Simply push the button to reset the switch if this occurs.

Most vehicles today have multiple fan speeds for the heat and A/C. These speeds are controlled by a blower motor resistor. The blower motor resistor is a small electrical device that controls the voltage to the fan motor. If the resistor becomes defective, you may only have one working speed on your fan control. If this problem occurs, the blower motor resistor will need to be replaced. It s a fairly inexpensive part and is available at most car part stores.

Instructions

1

Locate the heater blower resistor in your vehicle. It is typically mounted under the dash near the blower motor. You may need to check your vehicles repair guide, or your car dealership to help determine the resistors location. Parts of the dash may need to be removed depending on resistor location.

2

Remove the wire connector from the blower motor resistor by lifting the tab on the connector and gently pulling the connector off the resistor. This may require working the connector back and forth a few times to free it from the resistor.

3

Remove the two screws holding the resistor in place. These may be screws or small bolts depending on your vehicle. The resistor should now be able to be removed.

4

Position the new resistor in place, and secure it with the two screws. Reconnect the wire connector by firmly pressing it onto the resistor. Replace and dash parts that were previously removed.

Nothing can be more frustrating than a broken-off bolt on your vehicles exhaust manifold. Not only is this putting stress on the rest of the attaching bolts for the manifold and the manifold itself, dangerous carbon monoxide could be escaping from the manifold and working its way into the passenger compartment. It is very important that you correct a broken exhaust manifold bolt from a mechanical as well as a safety standpoint.

Instructions

1

Use penetrating fluid on all of the exhaust manifold bolts, including the broken one. Let the penetrating fluid work in for several hours.

2

Loosen the remaining exhaust manifold bolts. Give the bolts another dose of penetrating fluid if one or more bolts still will not budge. Allow the fluid to soak in for an hour or so. Apply some heat with a propane torch if you still have any stuck bolts. Concentrate the heat onto the center of the stubborn bolt until it is red hot. Allow the bolt to cool then loosen and remove it.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold to reach the broken bolt. Try using vise grips or an easy-out tool to twist the bolt out if part of the bolt is protruding from the engine block. Drill the bolt out if it is broken off flush with the engine block. Use a drill bit the same diameter as one of the exhaust manifold bolts without the threads.

4

Run a tap into the hole that is the same size as the exhaust manifold bolts to clean out any remaining remnants of the broken piece. Tap the remaining manifold bolt holes while you are at it to ensure the bolts will thread back in smoothly.

5

Replace the broken bolt with one of the same size and strength as the original. Take one of the good bolts to an auto parts or hardware store to make sure you get the correct replacement. Clean up the rust on the threads of the original bolts that you are going to reuse. Use a wire brush or a wire wheel installed on a bench grinder for this task.

6

Scrape off any remaining gasket material from the engine block and the exhaust manifold mounting surfaces with a gasket scraper or a putty knife. Install a new exhaust manifold gasket between the exhaust manifold and the engine block. Run in the manifold bolts finger tight. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench. Find the torque specifications for your specific model in a shop manual or from your car dealers service department.

7

Start your vehicle and check for exhaust leaks.

A tire changing machine can help you mount and dismount car tires from wheels. There are several different types of tire changing machines available, including one designed to change the tires of motorcycle wheels and one that is designed to change heavy duty tires such as those found on big rig 16-wheel cargo trucks and off-road farming equipment. Most tire changing machines also include auxiliary systems that allow you to inflate new tires, preparing them for use on the road.

Instructions

1

Remove the core of the wheels valve with a valve core remover.

2

Wedge the bead breaking blade between the inside of the tire and the rim of the wheel, and then set the blade into position.

3

Press the bead breaker pedal of the tire machine with your foot to break the bead, i.e., the edge of the tire that sits on the wheel.

4

Place the wheel on top of the clamps, while ensuring that the clamps are set in the outer configuration. Press the wheel clamp jaw pedal with your foot.

5

Move the mount/demount head onto the rim of the wheel, and then pull the vertical bar lock lever.

6

Insert a tire iron between the inside of the tire and the dismount head, and then use it to pull the inside of the tire over the dismount head.

7

Press the rotation pedal with your foot, and then lift the tire to dismount the backside.

8

Pull the backside of the tire over the dismount head with the tire iron. Press the rotation pedal with your foot.

9

Rub tire lube inside the new tire, and then place the tire on top of the wheel.

10

Lower the mounting head between the backside of the tire and the rim of the wheel. Press the rotation pedal with your foot.

11

Attach the inflation hose to the valve stem and press the inflation pedal all the way down with your foot to initiate the bead blaster. Once the bead is fully seated, partially press the inflation pedal to inflate the tire.

Occasionally, even after changing the engine oil on your 2005 Monte Carlo, the "Change Oil" light will still stay on. If this occurs, you must reset the light manually through one of two methods. The first method involves the accelerator pedal, and the second involves the radio. If you have an aftermarket radio, you will not be able to perform the second method.

Instructions

Accelerator Method

1

Turn the Monte Carlos engine off. Leave the keys in the ignition in the "Run" position.

2

Press and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds. The "Change Oil" light will flash twice and then turn off.

3

Repeat this procedure if it did not work the first time. The accelerator pedal must be fully pressed and released each time, and it must be completed three times within five seconds.

Radio Method

4

Turn the Monte Carlos engine off. Leave the keys in the ignition in the "Run" position.

5

Press and hold the "TUNE" button for five seconds. "SETTINGS" will now appear on the radio display.

6

Press the "SEEK P-TYPE" button to scroll through the options on the display. Stop when "OIL LIFE" is displayed.

7

Press the "1 PREV" button to scroll through the sub-menu. When "RESET" is displayed, press the "TUNE" button to confirm. A beep will emit from the speakers, confirming the reset procedure. "DONE" will appear on the display.

8

Press the "TUNE" button to exit the program. One more beep will be heard to confirm the exit.

The brake lever sits in the center console of the Jeep Cherokee. The emergency brake cable runs under the Jeep and attaches from the bottom side, joining the two rear cables with the single front cable. While failure of the lever assembly is not common, the ratcheting gears inside the handle and the locking mechanism can fail. Those parts cannot be serviced individually. You have to replace the entire assembly to fix a problem with the lever or the components inside it.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Cherokee off the ground with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the frame to support the Jeep. Slide under the Jeep and locate the parking brake equalizer, which is directly under the parking brake lever.

2

Remove the nut from the tension rod with a wrench. Slide the equalizer off the tension rod. Remove the front cable from the tension rod and lay it aside. Slide out from under the Jeep. Open the passengers door so you can access the center console and the brake lever.

3

Open the center console. Locate the two screws at the top edge of the trim panel that extends from the top of the console to the front of the brake lever cutout. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

4

Pull the brake handle up then lift the rear of the trim panel up several inches. Slide the trim panel back to release it from the front of the center console and lift it off the brake lever.

5

Locate the electrical connector on the brake lever switch near the bottom of the brake handle assemble. It is on the drivers side near the back of the assembly. Pull the connector off the switch and set the connector aside.

6

Remove the two retaining bolts from the brake handle assembly with a socket and ratchet. Lift the assembly out of the console and remove it from the Jeep.

First introduced in 1947, the Fleetwood is a luxury four-door sedan manufactured by Cadillac in America. Powered by big and powerful V6 and V8 engines, Fleetwood is equipped with a modern twin-turbine fuel pump that delivers enough fuel to feed the needs of this car.

Fuel Pump Operation

The fuel pump is an electric medium-pressure twin-turbine pump which is mounted to the fuel level meter assembly in the fuel tank. The fuel pump delivers pressurized fuel from the pump through an in-line filter to the throttle body injection (TBI) unit and injectors. The electric fuel pump operation is controlled by the electronic control module (ECM) through a fuel pump relay.

Fuel Pump Pressure Specifications

Cadillac Fletwoods fuel pump operates in the range of 62 to 90 kilopascals (9 to 13 pounds per square inch) of pressure when the engine is running.

Part Replacement

The fuel pump is still supplied by Cadillac and is priced at $77.98, as of late 2010. The OEM part number is 25168719.

Compac has been producing measuring instruments such as dial indicators, test indicators, and dial bore gauges since the 1940s. Originally founded as an independent company in Geneva, Switzerland, the company has since merged with the Tesa Division of Hexagon Metrology in Renens, Switzerland, which also produced Bestest, Tesatast, and Interapid indicators.

Compac Test Indicators

Compac produces two types of test indicators, including the single revolution (standard range) model and the multiple revolution (long-range) model. The single-revolution indicators are produced in an inch-reading horizontal model and a metric horizontal model. Each is available in a range of graduations: as small as .0005 millimeter (mm) and as large as .01 mm, and total range as small as .2 mm and as large as .8 mm. The multiple-revolution indicators are also available in inch-reading and metric horizontal models, with both vertical and parallel capabilities in a wide range of specs.

Compac Dial Indicators

Compac produces three variations of dial indicators, including small dial (40 mm), large dial (58 mm), and long-range (25 mm and more) models. The small-dial indicators come in a similar range of inch-reading and metric models as the test indicators. They are also available in waterproof and high-resolution aspects. The large-dial and long-range models are both only available as metric models. A variety of lug backs are available, including metal back with 8 mm fixed shank for all 58 mm models and lug back on and off center with .25-inch hole for all 40 mm models.

Dial Bore Gauges

Compac has produced dial bore gauges both in inch-reading and metric models, though at the time of this article only the metric models are still in production. These indicators are comprised of two sections: the measuring head and the dial bore indicator, both of which can be customized to a range of specs. The dial bore indicators are available in graduations of .002 mm, .001 mm, and .01 mm in standard format, as well as in small dial format at .002 mm and .001 mm. The measuring heads come as wide as small as 3.75 mm and as wide as 500 mm.

History of Compac Indicators

During the 1950 and 1960s, Compac of Geneva produced the best-selling import of indicators and dial bore gauge s in the United States, sold under the name Alina. In Europe, these same indicators were sold under the name Parvus. In the 1970s, the current Compac models began production and have remained almost exactly the same since their inception. They have also been sold under the name Mercer in the UK and as SPI in the United States.

Harley Davidsons original compensator on 95-cubic-inch and larger twin cams may have been inadequate for the added torque produced by the newer engine. Harley now factory installs more robust compensators. There are sometimes electronic problems with fuel injected Harleys that can be difficult to diagnose. The usual procedure for that is to retrieve and translate the trouble codes. Beyond that, troubleshooting a 95-cubic-inch twin cam is not very different from troubleshooting a flathead 45. The process always begins with throwing your leg over the bike and sitting down.

Instructions

1

Open the petcock and extend the choke. Turn the ignition key switch to "On," the handlebar run switch to "On" and start the motorcycle. If the starter does not operate, your battery is dead.

2

Shake the motorcycle from side to side and listen for gas sloshing in the fuel tank. If you hear sloshing and the starter turns over, but the bike does not start, check the spark plugs, the plug wires and the coil.

3

Inspect the spark plug wires for breaks, wear and corrosion from the coil to the plugs. Remove the front spark plug with a socket wrench and a spark plug socket and inspect the plug. If you see anything other than a perfectly intact plug with a light gray or tan coating on the electrodes, your spark plug must be replaced.

4

Start the motorcycle and idle in neutral until the rocker box covers under your left hand are warm to the touch. Ride the motorcycle.

5

Listen as you ride. If you hear knocks or pings and your spark plugs are in good shape then the gasoline in your fuel tank is bad. If you hear a typewriter chattering either your pushrods or your tappets are improperly adjusted. If you hear a squeal when you stopped your brakes are worn out.

6

Change gears. If the bike shifts hard, the shifter rod on the lower left side of the motorcycle may be bent. If the transmission jumps out of gear, the shifter forks in the transmission are improperly adjusted.

7

Brake to a stop. If the brakes do not hold, the brake fluid in your master cylinder is low.

Newer Toyota Camrys are equipped with a bell that warns you to put on your seat belt before starting the car. Some people find it annoying and wish to turn off the chiming. There are instructions in the owners manual on how to do this. You dont need any special tools to turn off this seat belt warning and it will only take a few moments of your time.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the on position, but do not start the engine.

2

Look for a tiny knob on the instrument panel and press it to toggle between the odometer reading and the trip odometer reading. Keep pressing the knob until you see "ODO." Turn off the vehicle.

3

Turn the ignition on but dont crank the engine. Pull the tiny knob out for 10 seconds. While still holding the knob out, put on your seat belt and keep holding the knob for another 5 seconds then release it. The instrument panel will now read "B off."

4

Repeat the above procedure to turn the seat belt warning chime back on.

A carburetor is a device responsible for regulating the amount of fuel and air inside the cylinders of a motorcycle engine in order to maximize performance. The carburetor is a very expensive device to replace and it can become damaged from fuel clogs and mechanical failure. It requires regular maintenance to maintain proper function. If a carburetor starts to have problems, troubleshooting it becomes a necessity to keep the motorcycle in prime running condition.

Instructions

1

Start the motorcycle. If your motorcycle was running fine the last time it was used but then sat for an extended period of time (during the winter for example), the fuel may have broken down and gummed up the carburetor. The most common symptom of this is that the bike will not start properly after sitting for an extended period of time. If this is the case, you will need to remove and clean the carburetor.

2

Run the motorcycle at a low RPM if you are able to. If the bike has trouble running at low RPM when the idle is at 1/4 throttle, the pilot system or the slide valve is the likely culprit.

3

Increase the RPM gradually if the bike is still running. The engine is directly affected by the throttle of the carburetor. If the engine starts having problems between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, the jet needle is more likely the problem and may need replacement. If the problem is happening at more than 3/4 throttle, the main fuel jet in the carburetor is the most likely issue.

Replacing the steering rack on a vehicle is something that shouldnt have to be done often as they are known to be very durable and can last through well over 85,000 miles of driving. However, the time will come when wear or leaks will occur. This is why having information on steering problems that can happen after a replacement rack is installed can be beneficial to automobile owners.

Steering Stiffness

One type of problem that can occur after replacing a steering rack is that the car will not steer as easily as it did before. This can be caused due to a pressure leak in the piston seal of the steering rack. Steering stiffness can also happen when the steering pump fails to produce enough pressure.

Strange Steering

Some steering problems will cause a vehicle to steer to the left or to the right instead of straight ahead. Problems with steering alignment is often the reason for this type of issue. Another reason for this is when pressure is sent to one particular side of the steering rack due to a spool valve leak.

Steering Suggestions

Before replacing the steering rack on your vehicle, it is suggested to flush all the previous fluid from the steering lines and steering pump. Failing to do so can affect the life of your replacement rack as the old fluid is dirty and can be harmful to the new rack.

Defective vehicles that are not able to be repaired are known as "lemons." Vehicle manufacturers must repair, und or replace them in the state of Minnesota.

Duty to Repair

Dealers must repair the vehicle if it fails to conform to express warranties, regardless of the expiration of the warranty or the passage of two years after original delivery date.

Duty to Refund or Replace

Dealers in Minnesota must either replace the vehicle with one of similar value, or und the purchase price within 30 days. The amount is reduced by the lower of ten cents per every mile driven, or ten percent of the original purchase price. Buyers may opt for unds.

Presumption of Non-conformity

If the vehicles braking or steering completely fails to operate, the vehicle is presumed to fail its warranty conformity. The failure must be likely to cause death or serious bodily harm.

Required Consumer Language

Lemon law in Minnesota dictates that buyers must notify dealers, in writing, of any vehicle defects. They must allow the dealer the chance to repair the vehicle, and may submit claims to arbitration.

Hydraulic cylinders are designed to extend and retract with pressure from hydraulic fluid. The hydraulic cylinders are much easier to work with because they connect to the power source with hydraulic hoses. Old style cranes used cables to operate. Today cranes, back hoes and other machines are hydraulically driven. Hydraulic cylinders are used on farm equipment. It is a hydraulic cylinder that raises and lowers the boom into the truck running along side a potato harvester. There are several reasons why you dont want a hydraulic cylinder to go in. One reason may be when transporting equipment on the road.

Instructions

1

Insert two On-Off ball valves, one in each line of the cylinder that you want to hold in the out position. Apply thread tape to the fitting of the ball valves when installing them. Use a wrench to tighten all the fittings to avoid any leaks.

2

Cycle the cylinder in and out several times before extending it to the length you want it at. The cycling is done by running the cylinder in and out, which will bleed any air that entered out of the cylinder and lines when you installed the ball valves.

3

Set the cylinder at the extended out length you desire and turn the levers 90-degrees to shut off both ball valves to prevent fluid movement in the cylinder. This method works well as long as the cylinder does not leak. If this method is not suitable for your situation, you have a different method to follow.

4

Measure the distance between the top of the cylinder rod and the cylinder housing. The cylinder rod is the chrome rod that goes in and out of the hydraulic cylinder.

5

Cut two pieces of angle iron the same length as the measurement of the cylinder rod. Place the angle pieces over the extended chrome cylinder rod and between the cylinder housing and end. Use the muffler clamps to clamp the angle on the top and bottom. The clamps hold the angle pieces in place so that the cylinder rod is prevented from going back in.

V-belts have a cross section resembling a "V." The narrow end of the "V" taper sits inside the groove of a taper wheel. This increases the contact area between the pulley and the belt. During use the belt stretches and will eventually break. Installing a correctly sized replacement belt between the pulleys will ensure the belt sits under proper tension. A simple method for determining the length of a V-belt exists that allows you to avoid using a complex mathematical formula.

Instructions

1

Wipe the inside groove of the pulleys clean with a rag.

2

Pull a length of 1/8-inch diameter twine around the two pulleys to be connected by the V-belt. Pull the twine tight. Ensure the ends of the twine overlap by 4 inches.

3

Draw a line across the overlapped twine with a permanent marker. Make sure the line is visible on both pieces of twine. Remove the twine from the pulleys.

4

Set the marked twine flat on a firm surface. Hold one end of the twine on the end of a tape measure. Pull the twine taught while it sits next to the tape measure. Read the dimension where the second mark on the twine falls on the tape measure to determine the length of the V-belt.

The 2007 Volkwagen Jetta, of German manufacturing, has several problems to consider before purchasing the vehicle. It weathered two serious recalls, which could have greatly impaired the cars performance and even endangered the driver if not fixed. It also has many consumer complaints dealing with various aspects of the car ranging from mechanical failures to cost spent in repairing these issues.

Headlights

In Sept. 2007, a recall was issued for 2007 Volkswagen Jettas because of a malfunction in their headlights. Some vehicles may not have received a cap that disables horizontal aim of the headlights and some vehicles may have contained a cap that disabled the vertical aiming screw. This means that the nighttime illumination of the roadway would have been partially disabled and could contribute to a crash.

Driveshaft Screws

In May 2009, a recall was issued for 2007 Volkswagen Jettas because of loose screws near the driveshaft cover. These screws may not have been properly torqued and could loosen over time, creating a knocking sound when the vehicle was in motion. They could also loosen to the point where the driveshaft could detach from the gearbox. The driveshaft could cause damage to the gearbox in a moving Jetta, damaging the gearbox and causing it to leak oil onto the highway. This could be a potential threat for the driver of the Jetta and other drivers on the roadway.

Other Problems

The 2007 Jetta also has a list of other problems that were not widespread enough to cause recalls. Drivers found problems with their engine, transmission and driveline, steering and suspension, brakes, heating and air conditioning, starting and charging and car accessories. Excessive complaints have been raised about the engine. At certain times the car will not start. Aside from the problems, 2007 Jetta parts are quite expensive to buy and repair, financially setting many drivers back.

Side post battery terminals are common in some car models, such as General Motors. When corrosion builds up on one or both of the terminals, it can cause interference in the flow of electricity to the vehicle. The result will be a car that wont start. You can prevent this from happening with the simple repair of removing the corrosion from the battery terminal post. Always be sure to follow any additional instructions provided by your vehicles manufacturer.

Instructions

1

Put on the safety glasses and gloves.

2

Unscrew the battery cable clamps from the side battery posts terminal with the adjustable socket wrench. Start with the negative battery cable first, then the positive battery cable. Secure the cables out of the way so they will not flop back and come into contact with the terminal posts.

3

Apply the detergent or a paste made from baking soda and water to each battery terminal post. Scrub with the wire brush to remove corrosion.

4

Rinse with water, taking care not to get any water in the battery vents. Dry thoroughly with a clean, lint-free cloth.

5

Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to each of the side battery terminal posts.

6

Reattach the positive cable to the positive post, first with your hand and then with the socket wrench. Repeat to reattach the negative cable to the negative post.

Engine technology is both a passion and an obsession for car engineers and car aficionados alike. This is due to the fact that the modern internal combustion engine is an imperfect design and could benefit from a few tweaks to squeeze out more power and efficiency from the system.



The Vortec line of cylinder heads was introduced by GM in 1988 as a V6 with a 4.3-liter displacement. This technology created a vortex or pressurized swirl of fuel and air mixture inside the combustion chamber that enables the engine to produce more power while still gaining a marginal amount of fuel efficiency.

Vortec Means Power

Vortec heads instantly added 55 or more horsepower to a regular 350 head with the same displacement. Automotive enthusiasts are quick to note that the 350 and the 5.7 Vortec are essentially the same engine with the same displacement. The 350 designation is the cubic inch measurement that also translates to 5.7 liters.

It is hard to tell the two cylinder heads apart when it comes to the physical aspect of the build, but there are major differences that make Vortec heads more powerful and efficient.

5.7 Vortec Heads and Regular 350 Heads

The intake port of the Vortec head is different and measures 160cc with a modified port that increases the flow velocity. The bowl area is wider around the guide compared with regular 350 heads.

The intake bolt pattern is different and utilizes an eight-bolt attachment. The bolt pattern and the number casting is the quickest way to differentiate a Vortec Head from a regular 350 head. The Vortec head is available in two casting numbers (10239906 and 12558062) that offer identical performance virtues. You can also check the casting mark on the end of the head and check for three triangular saw-tooth casting marks that indicate Vortec potency.

Vortec Intake Valve Seats and Combustion Chamber

The intake valve seat of the Vortec head has a three-angle grind straight from the factory and the combustion chamber design is a radical departure from former GM heads utilized in the market. The Vortec combustion chamber is a kidney-shaped design that promotes better combustion and will have the spark plug located near the center of the chamber.

The regular 350 head utilizes a 90 degree intake bolt angle while the Vortec makes do with a 72 degree bolt angle. Experienced mechanics are all too familiar with the lay out of a Vortex head as all the attachment bolts point straight up when the head is bolted to the engine.

Conclusion

The Vortec head is without a doubt engineered towards producing more power, torque and engine response while improving overall fuel economy. If you plan to change or modify the head of the 350 engine in your car, installing a Vortec head alone will yield positive effects in your quest for power and speed.

The Honda Accord EX wagon was introduced in 1991. The EX was the upmarket version of the Accord wagon, with a 140-horsepower engine and four-wheel anti-lock disc brakes. Accord wagons are known for their reliability, but most owners will need to purchase at least one new battery during their cars lifetime.

About Batteries

Most cars require a 12-volt, six-cell, negative grounded, lead-acid battery. Batteries are produced by a number of manufacturers. Batteries differ in their cold-cranking amps and reserve capacity. BatteryFAQ.org recommends buying a battery with the maximum available reserve capacity and the maximum cold-cranking amps for your climate. Cold-cranking amps (CCA) can vary from 450 to 850. If you live in a colder climate, you should choose a battery rated with greater CCA.

Battery Size

Batteries are classified into "BCI group numbers," commonly erred to as "sizes." The numerical battery size, such as 24, 35 or 75, takes into account the physical dimensions of the battery, whether the terminals are on the top or side, and its polarity. The 1991 Honda Accord EX wagon requires battery size 24. Size-24 batteries are no larger than 10.25 inches in height, 6.8125 inches wide, and 8.875 inches long. Be caul not to buy a size-24F battery, which would have the terminals reversed.

Battery Freshness

Batteries are stamped with a manufacturing date. Since batteries are perishable, you should always select a battery produced within the last year. BatteryFAQ.com recommends only purchasing a battery manufactured in the last six months.

Proper steering control is crucial to driving safety, allowing the driver to maintain accurate control of the vehicle. The idler arm is a component of the steering system in a vehicle. Not all cars have steering systems. Most sport utility vehicles (SUVs) and trucks have steering systems, as do some passenger models.

Identification

The idler arm consists of a ball joint, an arm and pivot bushing. The idler arm is on the passenger side of the frame rail.

Function

The idler arm connects the steering box to the center link. The center link is what turns the hubs and allows a vehicles tires to rotate. The idler arm controls the passenger side steering in a vehicle.

Problems

A faulty idler arm usually leads to the car pulling to one side. Drivers may also notice one tire is more worn than the other. A loose steering wheel is another indicator of a worn out idler arm. Drivers may also notice a noise when turning corners.

A 1994 Ford F450 truck uses a high-pressure fuel pump thats part of an in-tank reservoir assembly, or ITR. The ITR also includes a shuttle selector valve, a supply check valve and a venture jet pump. Your fuel pump must be compatible with your trucks specific engine. The engine in a 1994 Ford F450 may be a 7.3L Diesel, 7.3L Turbo Diesel or 7.5L engine. All versions of the 1994 Ford F450 use electronic fuel injection.

Instructions

1

Drain the fuel tank and disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel pump from the electrical connector, and clean the dirt from the area around the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump.

2

Place a wood dowel against the tabs of the fuel pumps locking ring and hammer the locking ring loose. Turn the locking ring counterclockwise to loosen it. Pull the fuel pump out and remove the gasket from the groove in the fuel tank.

3

Put the new fuel pump gasket into the matching groove of the fuel tank, and place the fuel pump into the fuel tank. Keep the fuel pump and gasket in place as you align the tabs on the locking ring with the matching slots in the fuel tank.

4

Turn the fuel pumps locking ring clockwise until it stops against the tab of the retainer ring. Ensure the gasket for the fuel pump is still in place.

5

Connect the fuel lines and the electrical connector to the fuel pump. Install the fuel tank and connect the cable to the batterys negative terminal. Fill the fuel tank.

Occasionally, you may need to remove the steering wheel from a Mini Cooper in order to replace it due to the wheel having worn out or just because you want to have a different style of steering wheel. Removing the wheel is a job that can be done in less than an hour. Remove the steering wheel yourself, saving you the time and money of having a mechanic do the work for you.

Instructions

1

Unfasten the negative battery cable of the Mini Cooper from the battery post with a socket wrench before removing the steering wheel. Locate the two dimples in the steering wheel column, one on each side, just behind the wheel.

2

Slide a small screwdriver into both dimples, one at a time, and push in on the spring mechanism until you feel the airbag release from the springs. Remove the cover from the center of the steering wheel by hand.

3

Detach the wiring connectors inside the steering wheel with a small screwdriver, prying up on the clip to unlock it and lifting the plug out of the socket. Locate the three trim pieces around the inside of the wheel and unfasten the Torx screws behind the steering wheel that are securing the pieces with a Torx screwdriver.

4

Lift the trim pieces off the steering wheel and detach the electrical connectors on each trim piece by hand, setting the trim pieces out of the way. Disconnect the horn electrical wire from the steering wheel by hand.

5

Remove the steering wheel bolt in the center of the steering wheel with a socket wrench. Pull the steering wheel straight from the column by hand, threading the wires through the center of the steering wheel.

The standard engine in a 1999 Ford Mustang is a six-cylinder, 3.8-liter engine with fuel injection. The intake manifold on a car with fuel injection distributes the combustion mixture evenly to the cylinder head intakes, and is essential for optimizing the performance of the engine. The intake manifold in a 1999 Ford with a 3.8-liter engine has an upper and lower section, which you must remove separately.

Instructions

1

Place a clean, sealable container under the radiator drain and remove the drain plug with a socket wrench. Allow the coolant to drain into the container and seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-B to the pressure relief valve on the fuel supply manifold. Place the tube of the fuel pressure gauge into a container approved for gasoline and open the valve on the pressure gauge. Drain the excess fuel into the container to relieve the pressure in the fuel system.

3

Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal with a socket wrench. Remove the intake air temperature sensor and the air intake tube. Detach the cables for the cruise control and accelerator. Disconnect the bracket for the accelerator.

4

Detach the electrical connectors for the exhaust gas recirculation and vacuum regulator solenoids, if your vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the electrical wires to the spark plugs and the ignition coil. Disconnect any additional vacuum lines needed to access the lower intake manifold.

5

Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation valve from the crankcase with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation valve. Disconnect the bracket for the wiring harness of the engine control sensor and push it out of your way.

6

Remove the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel lines from the fuel supply manifold and disconnect the electrical connector for the engine coolant temperature sensor. Remove the fuel supply manifold and fuel injectors from the lower intake manifold as an assembly.

7

Disconnect the upper radiator hose and heater hose from the radiator. Remove the lower intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench.

The Ford Focus is a compact car that Ford began manufacturing for the 2000 model year in North America. The engine for a Ford Focus made before 2005 is a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine uses a timing belt instead of a timing chain, and requires you to replace the timing belt at regular intervals. The timing belt for a 2000 Ford Focus allows the crankshaft to turn the camshaft.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from inadvertently starting the engine. Disconnect the accessory drive belt and its tensioner. Remove the cover for the timing belt.

2

Loosen the lug nuts for the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel and the right splash shield with a socket wrench. Disconnect the pulley for the crankshaft.

3

Turn the timing belt clockwise so that the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets align with their respective marks on the engine.

4

Loosen the bolt for the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Turn the tensioner 1/4 turn counterclockwise with an 8mm Allen wrench. Place a 1/8 in. drill bit into the hole of the timing belt tensioner to hold the tensioner in place. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket.

5

Place the new timing belt on the crankshaft. Complete the timing belt installation by proceeding in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the drill bit from the timing belt tensioner hole to release the tensioner.

6

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two complete turns to align the timing marks once again. Tighten the bolt for the timing belt tensioner to between 15 and 22 pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Connect the crankshaft pulley and tighten its mounting bolt to between 81 and 96 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the right splash shield and right front wheel with a socket wrench.

8

Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Install the accessory drive belt and its tensioner with a socket wrench. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Your 1996 Honda Accords tie-rod ends are the steering components that attach the steering linkage and linkage parts to the steering knuckles with a hardened steel ball stud. A tie-rod end can be replaced alone, but many automotive parts manufacturers recommend replacing the entire tie-rod as a whole and often sell these components fully assembled. You may want to purchase just the tie-rod ends, if available, if you are looking to conduct this repair method. This procedure does not require special tools and can be done at home with little automotive experience or knowledge.

Instructions

Removing the Tie-Rod Ends

1

Unscrew the lug nuts on your Accord slightly, then raise your Accord and support it with jack stands.

2

Remove the lug nuts and take the front wheels off.

3

Loosen the jam nut using one open-end box wrench while holding onto the tie-rod end with another. When the thread is exposed, mark it with some correction fluid to erence the new tie-rods position.

4

Take out the cotter pin on the tie-rod end stud and loosen the nut, but dont remove it.

5

Pry the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm using a two-jaw puller. Now remove the nut and separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm.

6

Separate the tie-rod end from the tie-rod by unscrewing it.

Installing the New Tie-Rod End

7

Screw on the tie-rod end up to the marked point on the tie-rod; you may need your open-end wrench. Place the tie-rod stud into the steering knuckle arm.

8

Screw on the nut to the tie-rod end stud and torque it to 32 foot-lbs with your torque wrench. Install the new cotter pin.

9

Repeat all steps in each section for the other side of your Accord.

10

Install the wheels and screw on the lug nuts finger tight. Lower your Accord and torque the lug nuts to 80 foot-lbs.

The base model of the 1996 Chrysler Town and Country minivan came equipped with a 3.3 liter six cylinder engine. The van included several different standard features including bucket seats, passenger seating for seven, an overhead console, cruise control, power steering, a tilt steering wheel, air conditioning, 15 inch wheels, power door locks and a trip computer. Because the Town and Country is comprised of so many different parts it can be difficult to know what repairs or changes to make. One way to troubleshoot the van is by working through general troubleshooting techniques.

Instructions

1

Look at the fuel line assembly of the Town and Country if you smell gas fumes inside the passenger compartment of the van while you are driving. There could be a loose or damaged fuel line or fuel line connector. There could also be a leaky fuel filter or the fuel tank could be punctured or damaged and leaking fuel. You should also inspect the canister purge valve of the fuel system to ensure that it isnt leaking. Make sure that the carburetor and fuel injectors inside the engine are not worn, dirty or malfunctioning.

2

Check the vans M.A.P. sensor when the engine has an erratic idle. Make sure the sensor is still working properly. Find the EGR valve and look to see if it has become faulty or not too. The fuel injectors could also be dirty or worn or the idle air control valve and idle speed actuator to ensure that they are not damaged, faulty or loose. The throttle position sensor could be incorrectly connected or faulty and the fuel filter could be clogged or dirty. Be sure to also inspect the PCV valve, carburetor, exhaust valves, timing gear, fuel pump, camshaft and ignition points to determine if any of these parts needs to be repaired or replaced.

3

Look at the differential system of the Town and Country when you hear a groaning noise coming from underneath the van while you are driving. You could have a low differential fluid level. You may also have a worn or damaged differential bearing or the wrong type of differential fluid inside the system. If you hear the groaning noise coming from the engine compartment while you are turning your steering wheel, look at the steering pump and power steering cylinder to ensure that they are not faulty. You should also check the power steering hose to make sure that it has been correctly installed and is not leaking.

Ford started production of the Ford Focus in 1999. The models made from 1999 to 2007 were the first generation of this series. The standard engine in the 2003 Focus has four cylinders and a displacement of 2.0 liters. The timing belt on this vehicle synchronizes the movements between the crankshaft and the camshaft. The tension on the timing belt is a critical factor in its installation.

Instructions

1

Open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with socket wrench. Turn the drive belt tensioner clockwise to reduce the tension on the accessory drive belt. Remove the drive belt. Disconnect the tensioner with a socket wrench. Remove the timing belt cover.

2

Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench and disconnect the right splash shield. Remove the pulley for the crankshaft.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Loosen the tensioner bolt on the timing belt with a socket wrench. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise by 1/4 turn with an 8mm Allen wrench. Place a 1/8-inch drill bit into the hole on the timing belt tensioner to hold the belt tensioner in place. Remove the timing belt.

4

Install the new timing belt onto the crankshaft by proceeding in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the drill bit from the hole in the timing belt tensioner. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two turns so that the timing marks align once again. Torque the tensioner bolt for the timing belt to between 15 and 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Install the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench and tighten its mounting bolt to between 81 and 96 foot-pounds. Connect the right splash shield and the right front wheel. Lower the vehicle and replace the timing belt cover. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and mount the drive belt. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The Geo Metro enjoyed popularity since its release in 1989. Geo Metro was released with as a coupe, convertible and sedan with three trim levels. Its fuel efficiency earned it the title Most Fuel Efficient car in America. Some Geo Metros had some issues with the transmission.

Recalls

General Motors issued a recall on the 1997 Geo Metro. The recall went out to owners on September 21, 1998. The 1997 Geo Metros equipped with an automatic transmission contained a faulty neutral safety switch. The shift level appeared to be in park but could be moved without having the key inserted or the shifter being moved. This created a dangerous potential for the vehicle to roll back if parked on an inclined surface. Dealers replaced the shifter assembly to fix the issue.

Signs and Symptoms

Transmission problems manifest in different ways. Low transmission fluid due to a transmission leak is one symptom of a transmission problem. A Geo Metro with low transmission fluid shifts into drive slowly. During driving, gear slippage and rough shifting or failure for the transmission to age are all symptoms of a transmission issue. The check engine light may illuminate if a transmission fault code generates. Using a code retrieval tool, the specific code can be pulled from the vehicles computer. This code will correspond to an error and is useful for a mechanic in transmission diagnosis and repair.

Prevention/Solution

Check the transmission fluid level. Take notice of the fluid color. Brown and burnt-smelling fluid indicates a fluid change is needed. Fluid change intervals correspond to how much a car is driven. More frequently driven vehicles require transmission fluid changes more often. At the first sign of transmission trouble have the engine serviced to avoid further damage and more costly repair.

Chevrolet transmission problems led General Motors to recall 276,729 automobiles in 2009, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). The recall affected 2009 model year Chevy Colbat, HHR, Malibu and Traverse vehicles.

Safety Defect

These 2009 Chevrolets were recalled for failing to comply with Federal safety standards. Per the NHTSA, there is a safety risk that the transmission shift cable adjustment clip might not be fully engaged. This could result in a serious problem if the driver shifts to "Park," and removes the ignition key, but the transmission gear isnt really in "Park" mode.

Risk

The driver might not be able to restart the car, and theres a risk that the car could roll away after the driver has left the vehicle not knowing the transmission gear is not in park, according to the NHTSA. The latter could result in personal injury or property damage.

Remedy

Registered vehicle owners should have received notification of the recall by mail around March 24, 2009. Mailed notifications contained information on where and when to bring the recalled vehicles. Authorized dealers were instructed to inspect the affected vehicles to ensure that the shift cable adjustment clips fully engage and make repairs at no charge.

The thermostat on the 1988 Buick LeSabre is located partially inside the intake manifold and the thermostat housing. Because the thermostat sits higher than the fluid level in the radiator, replacing the thermostat in the LeSabre is an uncomplicated task. Fortunately, the thermostat housing is not hidden among engine accessories. This makes it easier to reach, remove and replace a broken thermostat.

Instructions

1

Follow the upper radiator hose to the point where the hose connects to the LeSabres engine. The metal connector to which the hose connects is the thermostat housing.

2

Disconnect the radiator hose from the housing by squeezing the pressure tabs on the radiator hose clamp together with a pair of pliers. With the pressure released, pull the hose off the housing. A small amount of fluid may run onto the engine block. To minimize this, hold the hose vertical for a few seconds to drain the fluid back into the radiator.

3

Remove the two bolts that secure the thermostat housing to the Buicks intake manifold with a 7/16-inch socket and ratchet. With the bolts removed, apply pressure on the side of the housing with the ball of your hand to break the seal between the housing and the intake.

4

Pull the old thermostat out of the intake manifold and plug the hole with a shop towel to prevent anything from getting into the coolant system of your Buick.

5

Scrape all the old gasket material off the bottom of the thermostat housing and the mating surface of the intake manifold. Brush off any debris with a shop towel.

6

Remove the shop towel from the intake manifold and place the new thermostat into the hole. The end with the large spring submerges into the intake manifold and the end with the pin sits inside the thermostat housing.

7

Place a thin bead of RTV gasket maker on the bottom edge of the thermostat gasket. Allow the RTV gasket maker to firm up for approximately 20 minutes. This creates a small layer of "skin" on the RTV.

8

Place the thermostat housing onto the intake manifold and bolt it into place. Do not wipe off any excess RTV. It serves as additional sealant.

9

Squeeze the pressure tabs on the radiator hose clamp. With pressure released, slide the hose onto the thermostat housing and then let go of the tabs.

Pushrods, on the exterior of the cylinders on the right side of the engine, are part of an old-fashioned connection between the cam shaft and the exhaust and intake valves on your 2001, 883 cubic centimeter, V-twin Harley engine. Pushrods are specific to 883 and 1200 Sportster engines and Big Twins, but their operation, installation and removal is identical in all 2001 Harley V-Twin engines. Adjustable pushrods can conveniently be adjusted without having to first partially disassemble the top end of the engine. The initial top end job needed to install replacement pushrods is not for novices as clearances are tight, and many tools and some skill are required.

Instructions

1

Close the petcock. Put the motorcycle in fifth gear.

2

Loosen the fender tab screw with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat.

3

Loosen the battery cable from the negative terminal with an open end wrench. Disconnect the cable.

4

Raise the motorcycle on a motorcycle jack until the rear tire clears the ground. Ensure the bike is stable.

5

Remove the front and rear spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.

6

Rotate the engine by rotating the rear wheel. Rotate the engine until the front piston, as viewed through the spark plug hole, is at the top of its stroke and both front lifters are at their lowest point in the compression cycle.

7

Remove the front rocker box cover by loosening the rocker cover bolts with a rocker cover wrench. Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the gasket and discard.

8

Insert a small, flat head screwdriver blade into the cast loop of the spring cap retainer at the top of the rear pushrod cover for the front cylinder.

9

Rotate the screwdriver bottom toward the outboard side while pushing down. Remove the spring cap cover. Repeat the procedure for the other front cylinder pushrod.

10

Collapse the upper and lower push rod covers.

11

Alternately loosen each of the four rocker arm support plate bolts in 1/4 turn increments until all four bolts are loose. Remove the rocker arm support plate assembly.

12

Remove the push rod covers from the cylinder head and lifter cover bores. Remove the three O-rings from the push rod covers and discard.

13

Remove the pushrods by hand.

14

Assemble the new pushrod covers. Insert the pushrod cover adapters in the cover retainers.

15

Insert the new pushrods in the cylinder head and lifter cover bores. Install the new cover O-rings included with the new pushrods.

16

Replace the rocker arm support plate into the rocker housing. Loosely install the four rocker arm support plate bolts.

17

Tighten the four rocker arm support plate bolts in a cross pattern by tightening each bolt 1/4 turn at a time. Final tighten the bolts to 18 to 22 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench and a "dog bone" torque adapter.

18

Install a new rocker box cover gasket. Replace the D-ring.

19

Replace the rocker box cover. Tighten the rocker box cover bolts in a cross pattern to 20 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

20

Extend the adjusting screws to remove lash in the pushrods.

21

Compress the hydraulic unit in the exhaust lifter four complete turns and tighten the lock nut.

22

Adjust slack in the pushrod with your fingers after waiting five minutes. Repeat all procedures for the rear cylinder.

23

Replace the spark plugs and tighten them with a spark plug socket and socket wrench.

24

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Shift the motorcycle into neutral.

25

Start the motorcycle and check for leaks.

Produced by Dodge, Durango is a full-sized sport utility vehicle (SUV). It can be equipped with several different Hemi engines. The two powerhouse V-8 engines used in Durango vehicles are the 5.7-liter and the 5.9-liter engine. All Durango SUVs require periodic adjustment, often erred to as "alignment." The factory specifications for the alignment are the same for all 2000 Durango models.

Caster

Caster is both the rearward and the forward tilt of the steering knuckle from the true vertical. Caster is the measurement in angles that is responsible for directional stability. The Durango caster angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. The angle must be +3.10 degrees with the maximum allowable difference of 0.50 degrees on the two-wheel drive (2WD) model and +3.30 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.50 on the four-wheel drive (4WD) model.

Camber

Measured in degrees, camber is the outward or inward tilt of the wheel in relation to the center of the vehicle. The Durango camber angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. Camber angles must be -0.25 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.50 degrees both for the 2WD and 4WD models.

Toe

Toe is the difference between the leading and trailing inside edges of the front wheels. Total angles on the 2WD and 4WD models must be +0.10 degrees with measuring range of 0.06 degrees.

Water pumps push coolant through a vehicles cooling system, using a fan belt or a timing belt. Water pumps can become faulty over time. There are usually signs that its going bad. If the problem is fixed in time, you can avoid costly repairs. You can check for a bad water pump in a few simple steps.

Instructions

Signs of a Bad Water Pump

1

Look for leaks from under the vehicle. When a water pump is going bad, one of the first signs is leaking coolant. Inspect the areas around the radiator and hoses for signs of leaking. If there is leaking, consult a mechanic immediately.

2

Determine if there is overheating. Overheating is a sign that the water pump is leaking and needs immediate attention. Check the temperature gauge on the dashboard to see if it has risen into the hot zone. Also check to see if steam is rising from the engine.

3

Look for pools of green fluid under your vehicle. This is another sign that the water pump is bad. After pulling out of a parking spot, check to see if a green fluid is on the ground underneath the vehicle.

4

Listen for unusual sounds coming from the vehicle while driving. If you hear a whining sound coming from the heating or cooling vents, that indicates that there is a problem with the water pump.

The Ford F series is a line of full-size pickup trucks in continuous production since 1948, with the F-150 models being the most popular. The 1988 Ford F-150 has an early form of fuel injection that uses a low-pressure electric fuel pump. The replacement of the fuel pump itself is a relatively simple task, but accessing the fuel pump requires you to remove the fuel tank. The great majority of the work in replacing the fuel pump on a 1988 Ford F-150 is the removal and installation of the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle and turn off the ignition. Open and secure the hood. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and remove the fuel tank filler cap.

2

Remove the valve cap to the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line and connect the T80L-9974-A pressure gauge to the relief valve. Place the end of the hose for the pressure gauge into a gasoline-approved container. Open the pressure gauge valve. Drain the fuel from the fuel system into the container. Remove the pressure gauge and replace the valve cap on the relief valve.

3

Drain the fuel from the tank. Disconnect the wiring from the fuel-sending unit and the fuel line from the fuel tank. Remove the air relief tube from the fuel tank. Loosen the clamp on the filler neck hose and detach the filler neck from the fuel tank. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel tanks retaining strap. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

4

Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel-sending unit. Clean the fuel tank around the fuel sending unit and disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel sending unit. Turn the locking ring of the fuel sending unit counterclockwise with a hammer and wood dowel. Remove the locking ring and disconnect the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket on the fuel tank.

5

Put the new gasket into the groove on the tank. Install the new fuel-sending unit to the fuel tank while keeping the gasket in place. Align the tabs on the locking ring with the slots on the fuel tank and turn the locking ring clockwise until it is against the retainer ring tab.

6

Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring to the fuel sending unit. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the fuel tanks restraining strap to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

The Chrysler Crossfire, largely based on the first-generation Mercedes SLK, was the "first tantalizing fruit" of the short-lived DaimlerChrysler merger, according to Edmunds.com. Check all your vehicles lamps periodically to ensure they are functioning. If the parking lamp on your Crossfire has burned out, replace it straight away. Doing so is an uncomplicated process that needs no tools and does not take much time.

Instructions

1

Turn off the vehicle and ensure the light selector switch is in the "Off" position.

2

Push the sidemarker assembly into the car and slide it forward -- for the front sidemarker light -- and towards the rear -- for the rear sidemarker light. The light assembly will release from the vehicle.

3

Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise. The bulb assembly will release from the sidemarker light. Push the bulb into the assembly and twist counterclockwise, releasing the bulb.

4

Replace the bulb by inserting the new bulb and turning clockwise. Replace the bulb assembly by aligning the tabs on the assembly with the corresponding tabs on the sidemarker light. Twist clockwise to lock it in place.

5

Open the hood and lock it in place to remove the front standing lights. Twist the bulb assembly counterclockwise and remove it from the lector.

6

Push the bulb into the assembly and twist it counterclockwise to remove. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.

Small engine repair includes work on boats, motorcycles, lawn mowers, dirt bikes and all-terrain vehicles. When an engine needs repair, mechanics need specialized tools. The type of tools required depend on the size of the engine and the type of repair. Most repairs require the same basic tools every small-engine repair mechanic should have access to.

Hand Tools

Hand tools are the most commonly used for small engine repairs. Because they are smaller, portable and convenient to use, they are a staple of any mechanics tool supply. Hand tools are especially essential for removing or securing parts in small, tight spaces of an engine. The most commonly used hand tools are wrenches, pliers and screwdrivers.

Power Tools

More complicated repairs might require the use of power tools, such as drills, grinders and electric screwdrivers. Drills and grinders are used to make adjustments to parts for better fit, and electric screwdrivers help remove and secure nuts and bolts more quickly.

Diagnostic Tools

Because engine problems must be diagnosed before repairs can begin, diagnostic tools are important. Diagnostic tools range from compact, small devices to large, sophisticated, stationary equipment. Repairing smaller engines might require the use of both; however, compact, portable devices are more beneficial for mechanics who travel. Smaller diagnostic devices include tools used for detecting bad engine parts and tuning engines, such as compression gauges, ammeters, voltmeters and computerized engine analyzers.

Other Tools

Some repairs require the use of a mechanical jack used for heavy lifting. Jacks are especially important for accessing parts of the engine that extend underneath a vehicle. Small mechanical jacks are portable and compact, whereas large hydraulic jacks are stabilized and best used in a shop atmosphere. Also, safety is an issue in regard to engine repair, especially when power tools or devices with electric current are in use. For this reason, mechanics should always have safety goggles and work gloves nearby.

An exhaust gas recirculation valve is used to reduce the amount of emissions that an automobile puts into the atmosphere. The EGR valve was first used in the early 1970s and is now a standard feature used on most engines.

Operation

The EGR valve redirects a small amount of the exhaust that exits the cylinders through the exhaust valve into the intake manifold. Exhaust is pulled through a small tube via the intake vacuum. The EGR valve stays closed while the engine is cool or idling and opens when the engine is hot or running under a load.

Purpose

At high temperature, oxygen and nitrogen are combined to create nitrogen oxide (NOx). Among other problems, NOx causes respiratory complications and contributes to acid rain. The EGR valve introduces exhaust into the air intake to reduce the temperature of the combustion in the cylinder to prevent or reduce the creation of NOx.

Signs of Failure

When an EGR valve fails, the engine combustion temperature will increase causing performance problems for the automobile while also increasing NOx and hydrocarbon emissions. Engines will tend to knock or ping due to early detonation and the exhaust system may be damaged by the higher temperatures.

Chrysler has used the PowerTech brand for a variety of unrelated engines. One type of PowerTech engine is a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine that appeared in the Jeep Liberty from 2002 to 2005. The oil pump on this vehicle circulates oil throughout the engine to provide lubrication for its moving parts. The Jeep PowerTech 2.4-liter engine has its oil pump on the crankshaft sprocket in front of the engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Disconnect the rear cover of the timing belt and loosen the timing belt tensioner. Detach the timing belt.

2

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the oil pan from the engine.

3

Remove the crankshaft sprocket with Special Tool 6793 and Special Tool C-4685-C2. Disconnect the crankshaft key with a socket wrench and detach the oil pick-up tube from the oil pump. Remove the oil pump and the crankshaft seal from the crankshaft sprocket. Discard the crankshaft seal.

4

Clean the mounting surfaces for the new oil pump with a shop rag and apply gasket sealer to the mounting surfaces. Install the O-ring into the discharge passage of the oil pump. Fill the oil pump with engine oil to prime it.

5

Align the rotor flats of the oil pump with the crankshaft flats. Install the oil pump to the block with a new crankshaft seal. Connect the crankshaft key with a socket wrench. Install the crankshaft sprocket with Special Tool 6792 to set the sprocket to the original depth.

6

Connect the oil pump pick-up tube to the oil pump. Mount the oil pan and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Install the timing belt and connect the rear cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench.

Motorcycle owners drill out stock pipes to make the factory installed baffles in their exhaust pipes less restrictive. The stock baffles in many exhausts, particularly Harleys, severely restrict an engines capacity to breathe in and out. They effectively diminish the size of the engine, which in turn increases the bikes fuel efficiency. In addition, the more restrictive the baffle, the quieter the engine -- something that pleases people who are concerned about noise pollution. Still, some motorcyclists believe that louder and quicker motorcycles are safer to ride. If you are one of those cyclists, and want to drill out the stock pipes on your bike, you can do so in a series of straightforward steps.

Instructions

1

Unbolt the front and rear mufflers from the exhaust bracket (on most motorcycles) with a hex socket and a socket wrench. The size of the socket will vary by motorcycle. Bikes with very accessible mufflers will not require this step.

2

Loosen the hose clamps that hold the heat shields to the mufflers on most cruiser motorcycles, using a flathead screwdriver.

3

Examine the bottoms of both mufflers for any screws. Remove any screws you find with a screwdriver.

4

Remove any end caps from the ends of the mufflers. End caps are decorative trim in various shapes, including "fishtails," that also limit access to the interior of the exhaust. Some motorcycle exhausts have end caps and some dont. They usually attach with a single screw.

5

Look inside each muffler to determine if the baffles are removable or welded into the muffler. Some baffles slide out after removing an end cap. Harley baffles are welded. Pull removable mufflers out before drilling into them.

6

Chuck a 12-inch-long, 3/8 inch drill bit into an electric drill. Use the drill to bore a

hole in the approximate center of the baffles in both mufflers.

7

Replace the baffles into the muffler shells if you removed them. Replace the end caps and any screws.

8

Replace the heat shields and re-bolt both mufflers to the exhaust bracket where necessary.

You can clear the Check Engine light on your 95 Ford Escort using a computerized tool called an OBD I scanner. Retrieve the engine trouble codes using the OBD I scanner and make the necessary repairs before clearing the Check Engine light. If you clear the Check Engine light before repairing the Escort, you can damage the engine, the emissions system or the cars on-board diagnostics (OBD) computer.

Instructions

1

Locate the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) port on the drivers side dashboard under the steering column.

2

Plug the OBD I scanner into the DLC port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. This will power on the scanner.

4

Select the "Clear Codes" or similar option. Wait for the scanner to return to the main menu. This will indicate that the task has been completed.

5

Unplug the scanner and start the engine. Verify that the Check Engine light has shut off.

Chrysler sells a line of Ram pickup trucks under its Dodge brand. The 1998 models belonged to the second generation of Rams, which were in production from 1994 to 2001. The procedure for replacing the water pump in a 1998 Dodge truck depends primarily on its engine. The most common engine in this vehicle is an 8-cylinder 5.2-liter engine that runs on gasoline. The water pump is accessible from the engine compartment and is located in front of the engine block.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable on the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from inadvertently starting the engine during the water pump replacement. Place a container under the drain hole for the radiator and remove the radiator drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the accessory drive belt with a socket wrench, and detach the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Remove the heater hose from the water pump if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Detach the upper radiator hose from the radiator with a socket wrench. Disconnect the cooling fan assembly from the engine block, including the fan shroud. Remove the bolts for the water pump pulley and detach the pulley from the engine block.

4

Remove the mounting bolt for the heater hose pipe with a socket wrench. Release the clamp for the bypass hose on the water pump and detach the bypass hose. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump, and remove the water pump.

5

Install the new water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the bypass hose to the water pump and attach the clamp for the hose. Apply sealant to the threads on the heater hose pipe. Connect the heater hose pipe, and tighten the mounting bolt to 12 foot-pounds. Spin the water pump to ensure the impeller for the water pump does not contact the timing chain case.

6

Connect the pulley for the water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the cooling fan assembly and connect the hoses to the radiator. Attach the accessory drive belt. Fill the radiator with coolant and check for leaks in the cooling system.

Automotive air conditioners lose efficiency over time. This is because an air-conditioning system will lose a small amount of rigerant, or freon, each year. Over the course of a few years, the system will lose enough that youll notice the air is not as cold as it should be. Adding an amount as small as a 1/2 pound can help restore air conditioner function.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the vehicle. The air-conditioning system will have two service ports: a high side and a low side. The low side service port will have a blue cap on it. Both ports are located near the top of the engine compartment and should be visible.

2

Remove the blue cap from the low side service port. Inside is a schrader valve, which looks similar to a tire valve that you use to inflate tires. The cap is threaded onto the line and must be unscrewed.

3

Place the side of the low-pressure hose with the valve over the top of a can of rigerant. Lock it in using the handle or screws that come with the hose. Dont turn the valve yet. Thread the other end of the hose over the low-pressure service port, tightening it by hand.

4

Start the engine of the vehicle and turn the air conditioning to high. Turn the valve on the low-pressure hose clockwise as far as it will go to pierce the top of the can. Turn it counterclockwise to open the valve and allow the rigerant to flow into the system. Shake the can gently as you do this and throughout the charging process. In about one minute, the can will be empty.

5

Close the valve on the low-pressure hose by turning it clockwise. Remove the low-pressure hose from the schrader valve and replace the cap. Check the operation of the air-conditioning system after a few minutes.

Since Harley-Davidson Sportster engines are air-cooled, their three quarts of oil can get very hot in the summertime, especially in desert conditions. Very hot oil is both less slippery and more easily saturated with carbon and other wastes than merely hot oil. Oil coolers increase the volume of oil circulating in the engine and improve the radiation of excess heat away from the engine. A Sportster XL requires a Jagg Slimline Oil Cooler kit. If your Sportster is a 2004 or later model you must also buy a Jagg 4400 Oil Filter Adapter.

Instructions

1

Ride the motorcycle for 30 miles until the oil gets as hot as possible. Park the bike and put on a pair of mechanics gloves.

2

Loosen the hose clamp on the oil drain line with a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the plug out of the end of the drain line with a pair of pliers drain the hot oil from the tank into a drain pan.

3

Re-plug, tighten and replace the oil drain line. Position the drain pan under the oil filter on the right front of the bike.

4

Loosen the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Remove the filter by hand and dump as much of the oil as possible into the drain pan. Mop the spilled oil off the front of the bike with rags. Remove the gloves.

5

Cut two pieces of standard oil line, with an inside diameter of 3/8-inch and an outside diameter of 5/8-inch, approximately 18 inches long with a sharp knife. The lines must be long enough to extend from the oil filter to the middle of the left down tube.

6

Slip one end of each of the two new oil lines onto the Jagg oil filter adapter nipples. Tighten the lines to the nipples with two of the hose clamps included with the adapter kit and a flat-head screwdriver.

7

Position the O-ring included with the kit on the oil filter adapter. Slide the oil filter adapter and O-ring onto the oil filter mounting stud.

8

Spin the adapter anchor nut onto the oil filter stud and tighten with a 1-inch hex socket, socket extension and socket wrench.

9

Spin the banjo fitting included with the kit onto the oil filter stud. Spin a new oil filter onto the oil filter stud and hand tighten.

10

Attach the 1/16-inch rubber shims and the 1-1/8-inch clamps included in the oil cooler kit to the left down tube. Attach the oil cooler to the clamps with its nipples down and the cooling fins facing forward, using the supplied nuts and bolts, hex socket and socket wrench.

11

Attach the two oil lines from the oil filter adapter to the two nipples on the bottom of the oil cooler using the hose clamps included with the oil cooler kit and a flat-head screwdriver.

12

Pour three quarts of oil into the oil tank. Start the engine in neutral and run for one minute.

13

Check for oil leaks while the bike is running. Turn off the engine and check the oil level in the oil tank with the dipstick. It should be about one quart low.

14

Add oil to the oil tank as needed. Restart the engine in neutral and run for at least five minutes. Check for leaks while the motorcycle is running. Make sure the oil cooler becomes warm.

The Honda Valkyrie is a Harley Davidson-style pan-head cruiser motorcycle manufactured from 1997 to 2003. The cycles continue to be valued by collectors and enthusiasts for their vintage-style design coupled with modern manufacturing techniques and components. There are a few known issues with the Valkyrie line of cycles that can be solved by a series of troubleshooting steps.

Instructions

1

Ride at speed in a low-traffic area and listen for grinding or clanking noises from the front or rear wheels, especially during weight-shifting periods such as bumps or potholes. Such sounds, or a clunking or grinding sensation in the cycles ride, indicate deterioration in the cycles ball bearings, which must be fixed by a qualified mechanic.

2

Open the drive unit at the bottom of the engine near the rear tire using a wrench. Drain the fluid from the drive and replace with 100 percent synthetic engine oil to improve engine temperature and smoothness. Grease the splines inside the unit with drive grease.

3

Pry the starter switch with a straight screwdriver until the switch sits flush with the starter mechanism to fix non-starting or engine-kill problems.

4

Unscrew the bolt linking the battery cable to the engine frame using a wrench. Check that the cable is clean and not frayed then reattach securely, making sure the cable is securely fastened to the frame and making a clean connection.

5

Check that the fuel switch is set to "Off" when not riding the bike. Failure to set the switch correctly can result in starting problems that must be addressed by a dealer.

6

Tighten the bolt running from the engine to the horn-sounding mechanism to reduce rattling sounds in the engine. Use a wrench to fasten the bolt extremely securely, so no rattling is possible.

7

Run the engine for five to 10 minutes and loosen the lectors from either side of the engine using a screwdriver or putty knife. Tighten the fasteners on the back of the lectors with an Allen key and push back into place.

8

Tighten the header nuts at the exhaust port with a torque wrench to reduce rattling sounds from the nuts. Do not tighten past 7 foot-pounds or the exhaust manifold can be damaged.

9

Consult a registered Honda dealer if you suspect issues pertaining to bearings or housing, loose lights or turn signals, starter switch, leaking or loose fuel or coolant tanks, frayed or unresponsive tires or any other issues not covered above. Such issues are best fixed by registered professionals and may well be covered by the bikes extended warranty.