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Clean the female threads of the connection by sliding a round wire brush into the opening, twisting the handle of the brush and pulling the brush from the threaded hole.

Remove debris from the male threads of the connection by running over the threads with a wire brush.

Spray aerosol part cleaner on the cleaned male and female threads. Allow the part cleaner to dry for 10 to 15 minutes.

Apply part primer to all prepared threads entering the connection. Allow the primer to dry for 15 to 20 minutes.

Remove the cap from the Permatex threadlocker. Tilt the nozzle of the threadlocker toward the female threads of a deep threaded hole or the male threads of a bolt and nut connection. Squeeze the bottle of threadlocker to apply a generous amount of product to the threads.

Connect the male and female threads of the connection using standard connecting methods.

Clean excess Permatex threadlocker from the area surrounding the connection with aerosol part cleaner and a clean rag.

Remove the core of the wheels valve with a valve core remover.

Wedge the bead breaking blade between the inside of the tire and the rim of the wheel, and then set the blade into position.

Press the bead breaker pedal of the tire machine with your foot to break the bead, i.e., the edge of the tire that sits on the wheel.

Place the wheel on top of the clamps, while ensuring that the clamps are set in the outer configuration. Press the wheel clamp jaw pedal with your foot.

Move the mount/demount head onto the rim of the wheel, and then pull the vertical bar lock lever.

Insert a tire iron between the inside of the tire and the dismount head, and then use it to pull the inside of the tire over the dismount head.

Press the rotation pedal with your foot, and then lift the tire to dismount the backside.

Pull the backside of the tire over the dismount head with the tire iron. Press the rotation pedal with your foot.

Rub tire lube inside the new tire, and then place the tire on top of the wheel.

Lower the mounting head between the backside of the tire and the rim of the wheel. Press the rotation pedal with your foot.

Attach the inflation hose to the valve stem and press the inflation pedal all the way down with your foot to initiate the bead blaster. Once the bead is fully seated, partially press the inflation pedal to inflate the tire.

Place 2-by-4 runners, spaced 24 inches apart and covering the length of the treated lumber, on your garage floor or driveway. Stack the treated lumber, wide face down, on top of and perpendicular to the runners. Lay a piece of plywood on top of the lumber, and add cinder blocks or bricks to weigh it down. Cover the stack with a tarp, if it will be stored outside. Allow four weeks for the lumber to dry, then uncover and unstack.

Draw a sketch of your trailers floor, including width and length of each piece. Measure and mark the position of bolt holes in the original boards. Unbolt the floor boards with an impact gun by loosening and removing the nuts from the underside of the bolts, underneath the trailer. Tap each bolt upward to with a hammer for easy removal.

Pull out the bolts from above with the claw end of the hammer. Save at least one for comparison. Purchase bolts of the same size and thickness to replace the original hardware for best results.

Measure and cut one board for each piece in the original floor, using a circular saw. Make it the same length and width as the original, and bore bolt holes using the original board as a template. Use a drill bit the same thickness as the bolts.

Install the new floor boards, starting at the left front corner of the trailer and working across first and then back. Drop a bolt through each hole in each floor board and down through the bolt holes in the trailer floor. Tap each head with a hammer to set the carriage head into the lumber to prevent it spinning.

Thread a washer and bolt from below onto each bolt as you go and tighten by hand. Install all of the boards in this fashion. Once all boards are installed, tighten the nuts with an impact gun. Double-check each nut to make sure it remained tight, and snug down any nuts that require it.

Lift up the vehicle using the jack and place it on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it.

Crawl underneath the vehicle and locate the exhaust leak. Wrap the exhaust wrap around the tubing, making sure to cover the leak as well as any area 2 inches in front and behind of the hole, and keep the wrap tight. Cut off any excess tubing using scissors.

Place a muffler clamp over one end of the wrap, and slide the base of the clamp onto the U-bolt, tightening it in place using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Repeat this process with the other side of the exhaust wrap.

Raise the vehicle off of the jack stands using the jack and place it back on the ground. Start the vehicle and check again to see if you hear the exhaust leak. If you do, consider adding another layer of exhaust wrap to fix the noise or look for additional leaks.

Open the hood of your vehicle and locate the alternator and the belt that drives the alternator. Find the belt tensioner for the alternator belt.

Place the box-end of a wrench around the bolt on the belt tensioner. Choose a wrench that properly fits the bolts so it does not slip.

Pull the wrench counterclockwise to draw back the belt tensioner (compressing the spring) arm and release tension on the belt. Continue holding the belt tensioner and remove the belt.

Turn the belt tensioner clockwise slowly to return to its normal position (allowing the spring to relax).

Pull the belt tensioner arm counterclockwise to reinstall the belt. Route the belt along the pulleys following the belt-routing diagram for your vehicle. Check under your hood for the belt-routing diagram; consult your service manual if you are not able to find it.

Turn the belt tensioner clockwise slowly, with the belt rerouted along the appropriate path, allowing the tensioner arm to draw the belt taut.

Determine the size of the socket wrenchs drive fitting; 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch, 1/2 inch are the most common sizes.

Determine the adapter needed to fit the wrench and the different-sized socket. For example, you need a 1/2-inch to 3/8-inch adapter to attach a 1/2-inch wrench to a 3/8-inch socket.

Attach the 1/4-inch side of the adapter to the 1/4-inch wrench and the 3/8-inch side of the adapter to the 3/8-inch socket.

Stand your motorcycle in an upright position with a kickstand and four concrete blocks. Secure its position with the blocks on both sides of the front tire so that the motorcycle does not rock back and forth while you are working on it.

Place the transmission into neutral and elevate the rear tire by placing a concrete block or jack under the rear suspension. You will need the rear tire to be able to spin freely to check the belt tension.

Rotate the rear tire and measure the tight spots of the belt. Note the deflection of the belt as you rotate the rear tire in four places. Measure the deflection with a tape measure or a ruler approximately half the distance between the front and rear sprockets on the lower part of the belt. Note the tightest point on the belt and mark this area with your silver permanent marker.

Adjust the wheel alignment if the left and right notches are not at the same marks or position of the swing arm. Be sure to do this before adjusting your belt.

Use the tension gauge to push up the belt in the center from underneath, using 10 pounds of pressure (indicated on the tool), with maximum deflection of 1.5 mm to 4 mm at the front of the swing arm cross pipe. Repeat at the areas that you marked with the silver marker. Adjust your belt as needed for your motorcycles specifications

Prepare the area to be repaired. Remove any debris or flaking. Chip or cut the surface so that the product can fill in and adhere. For example, if you have a crack, cut or grind a groove down the middle so the jelly can get into it and stick. Measure the size of the fiberglass cloth you will need to cover the area if you are using it in the repair. Cut it now to have it ready.

Wear the gloves and safety goggles, and clean the surface of the repair area well with acetone and a clean cloth.

Pour the amount of fiberglass jelly you estimate you will need for the first application into a clean disposable cup. The jelly hardens fast, so time is of the essence, and you dont want to waste product you cannot use.

Spread a layer of the jelly with a brush or flat paddle-type stick. Work it into the groove or hole, wherever the product needs to fill. Work the layer of fiberglass cloth into the jelly layer if you are using cloth to reinforce the repair. Apply a thin coat of the jelly over top of the cloth, like a reverse sandwich.

Allow to dry completely. Fiberglass jelly dries quickly. Depending on the temperature and humidity, the area could be ready to sand within 20 minutes. Sand with heavy grit sandpaper and smooth out the repair.

Apply another coat of jelly or jelly and cloth, if necessary. The cloth should be embedded enough not to come through during sanding; it can be used minimally with the jelly. Dry and sand as before. Feather the edges of the repair until the area looks like the rest of the surface.

Clean the area with acetone. It is ready to paint.

Turn off the ignition and locate the cars Data Link Connector. This is a 16-pin plug that an OBD scanner plugs into, and is generally located under the cars steering wheel.

Connect the OBD scanner to the Data Link Connector. Switch on the ignition. Turn on the OBD scanner.

Press the Read button on the scanner. (Some scanners will have a Scan button instead.) Wait for the troubleshooting codes to appear on the scanners display.

Look up the troubleshooting code in the scanners manual to see if the NOx sensor is faulty. If the sensor is faulty, you must have it replaced to pass an emissions test.

Unplug the scanner from the car and turn off the ignition.