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Engines make noise. There is a level when the noise is just not comfortable and can make a trip very uncomfortable and unpleasant. Rule out any problems such as low oil pressure, any loose belts or a misfiring sparkplug and then you can set about toning down your noisy engine. Using easy-to-obtain materials and needing no prior auto repair experience you can tone down the noise form your engine and make everyone happier to ride in your car.

Instructions

1

Park the car on level ground and lift the hood. If the car is not level, the fluids inside will not be level.

2

Open the engine fluid reservoir and use the dipstick to check the level. If there is not enough fluid, fill the reservoir to the fill mark. Leave the hood open when you close the reservoir.

3

Start your engine and look through the engine bay for any loose or moving parts. Tighten these components in order to reduce the excessive noise they are causing.

4

Hold the soundproofing material against the underside of the hood and trace the shape of the indentations with a marker. There are usually three or four indented areas under the hood.

5

Cut out the material with scissors and apply the glue to the areas under the hood. Spread the cut-out pieces out onto the glue and press them down into place.

6

Cover the engine bay side of the firewall with the soundproofing material in the same way you did for the hood. The firewall is the wall between the engine compartment and the interior of the door.

Since its introduction to the automotive world in the 1940 Packard, air-conditioning systems have been through many changes. The most drastic change was the shift from R12 to R134a, due to environmental concerns. When you turn on the air conditioner by pressing the power button and turning on the fan, you expect to hear the compressor kick on. There are six main reasons for the compressor not to turn on when you expect it to.

Incorrect Charge Level

All air-conditioning systems use a refrigerant to cool the cabin of the vehicle -- either R134a or R12. All post-1996 vehicles use R134a and prior to that, most vehicles used R12 refrigerant, commonly called Freon. The air-conditioning system requires a specific amount for refrigerant to run without causing damage. If the charge is low, most cars cut off power to the compressor to keep it from turning on.

Failed Pressure Sensor

Air-conditioning systems are under high pressure -- some exceed 200 psi. If the system has too much or too little pressure, damage may occur. Most modern vehicles use an air-conditioning pressure switch to monitor the pressures and cut power to the compressor if the pressures are incorrect. If this switch fails, no power can get to the compressor and it will not turn on.

Failed Wiring

The air-conditioning systems in all cars have a series of power and ground wires. If one of these wires fails, the compressor cannot receive power and will not turn on. This failed wiring can also cause additional problems with your vehicle.

Failed Air Conditioning Switch

To engage the air conditioner, you must press a switch inside the vehicle. If the electronics inside this button fails, the compressor will not turn on, as it will not receive power.

Blown Fuse

As with all electric systems in vehicles, there is a fuse that protects the compressor from power overload, typically 10 to 30 amps. If the amperage exceeds the limits of the fuse, it will break the circuit and the compressor will no longer receive power.

Failed Compressor

The compressor has a clutch on the front that engages and disengages as you turn the air conditioning on and off. If this clutch fails, it causes the compressor to either lock up or spin freely. If the latter is true, the compressor cannot turn on, as the power is not transferring from the drive belt to the compressor. If the former is true, the pulley locks up with the compressor and you will hear a loud screeching sound from the belt spinning on the stuck pulley.

A catalytic converter, or catalyst, is responsible for reducing the amount of pollutants that emit into the atmosphere while a vehicle is being driven. Saturn vehicles do have catalytic converters.

Types

Some cars have an oxidation catalyst that reduces carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons, also known as a two-way catalyst. Some Saturn catalysts control the emission of nitrogen as well, known as three-way catalysts.

Emission Check

Catalysts can become clogged and therefore must be serviced. Many auto shops can perform inspections to see if your Saturn has a plugged catalyst; there are also emission inspection facilities for diagnosis and/or repair.

Replacement

Although catalysts dont often break from normal use of your car, replacing one is not such a detailed process. If you do it yourself, be sure to acquire the correct catalyst for your Saturn and new flange gaskets, nuts and bolts and anti-seize compound to coat them with.

High-performance exhaust systems balance flow rate and gas velocity while reducing back-pressure. Piping dimensions and shape directly affect flow and velocity. Full systems are made up of an exhaust manifold or headers, front pipe, catalytic converter, muffler and tailpipe.

Piping Diameter

Large exhaust piping creates an open flow, which improves top-end power. However, excessively large pipe diameter reduces exhaust velocity or the speed gas travels through the pipes, which decreases torque. Manufactures outfit piping of different diameters on a vehicle before placing the vehicle on a dyno-machine, which measures horsepower, to expose the optimal balance between flow and velocity.

Piping Shape

Ideally, high-performance exhaust piping bends as little as possible. Straight piping optimizes flow rates, gas pressure and velocity. Maintaining balanced pressure within the piping benefits engine power and fuel efficiency.

Back-pressure

Back-pressure occurs when gasses flow back to the engine instead of out the tailpipe. Back-pressure occurs in all systems, but excessive amounts cause power loss, overheating issues and engine suffocation. Obstructions within exhaust piping increase back-pressure. A mufflers flow capacity must equal or surpass the flow rate of the entering gasses or back-pressure is created.

The Ford Contour was a compact four-door sedan that Ford manufactured from 1995 to 2000. Ford also sold the Contour as the Mercury Mystique, and marketed this vehicle as a replacement for the Ford Tempo and Mercury Topaz. The Ford Contour had a 4-cylinder 2.0L engine or a 6-cylinder 2.5L engine. Both of these engines had multi-port fuel injection, which requires a high-pressure fuel pump. The fuel pump in the Ford Contour is accessible from the rear seat.

Instructions

1

Detach the cable from the batterys negative terminal. Open the filler cap for the fuel tank, and disconnect the air cleaner. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure relief valve on the fuel rail, and place the end of the drain tube into a container. Open the fuel pressure gauge, and allow the fuel to drain into the container. Remove the fuel pressure gauge, and close the filler cap to the fuel tank. Connect the air cleaner assembly.

2

Remove the cushion from the rear seat, and disconnect the grommet on the floor pan. Detach the electrical harness from the fuel pump. Press the tabs on both sides of the quick-connect fittings for the fuel lines of the fuel pump, and gently disconnect the fuel lines.

3

Turn the locking ring for the fuel pump counterclockwise with Fuel Tank Sender Wrench D84P-9275-A. Detach the locking ring from the fuel pump, and remove the fuel pump without damaging the fuel gauge sender or fuel filter.

4

Discard the O-ring on the fuel tank, and clean the groove on the fuel tank with a shop rag. Apply a thin layer of grease to the new O-ring seal, and place it onto the groove of the fuel tank. Carefully install the fuel pump into the tank to prevent damage to the fuel gauge sender or the fuel pick-up filter.

5

Place the locking ring for the fuel pump so that the locking tabs of the locking ring are under the locking ring tabs of the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring clockwise with the fuel tank sender wrench until the retainer ring is against its stops. Connect the fuel lines and electrical connector for the fuel pump. Connect the grommet on the floor pan, and replace the rear seat cushion. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal. Start the engine, and check for fuel leaks.

The interior diameter of an air cylinder equals its bore. This measurement helps determine the use and maintenance needs of a particular air cylinder.

Measuring Bore

A bore gauge measures the bore. A small-hole gauge user sets the gauge smaller than the bore, inserts the gauge into the cylinder, and adjusts it until he feels a slight pressure when the gauge makes contact with the inside of the cylinder. He removes the gauge and measures the bore with a caliper or micrometer.

Choosing Air Cylinders

Choosing the right air cylinder involves considering the bore, the operating pressure and the stroke. The operating pressure measures the number of pounds per square inch (PSI) the air cylinder can withstand, and the stroke quantifies the distance between fully extended and fully retracted rod positions in inches.

Maintenance Work

Maintenance technicians measure bore to find wear on an air cylinder. The technician takes the bore measurement in intervals throughout the cylinder to determine the degree and placement of the wear. If the bore measurements vary greatly, the cylinder needs re-boring to restore its condition.

Considerations

Accurate bore measurement relies on a fully clean air cylinder, accurate instruments and a feel for the process. Accurate bore values make the difference between the function and failure of projects using air cylinders and the upkeep or decline of the air cylinders themselves.

Your vehicle exhaust manages the removal of waste gases produced within the engines combustion chambers. Exhaust piping and component quality determines engine power, fuel efficiency and sound. Over time, exhaust piping can corrode and becomes comprised with age. Compromised components decrease performance and may allow harmful exhaust gas chemicals into the air. The specific make and model of your vehicle determines the specific exhaust design but each design includes similar components and hardware including bolts, hangers, clamps, an exhaust manifold, front pipe, catalytic converter, muffler and tailpipe. Installing new muffler assembly and tailpipe isnt difficult with proper instruction and tools.

Instructions

Removal Of Existing Exhaust

1

Open the hood and disconnect the vehicle battery using a socket set. This nullifies any electrical concerns during installation and resets the system to the new exhaust once reconnected.

2

Place the floor jack in the recommend owner manual positions and lift the vehicle off the ground. Place floor jacks underneath the vehicle until all wheels are off the ground. Leave ample room to work underneath.

3

Locate the two-bolt flange connecting the muffler assembly into the catalytic converter piping and unbolt the two bolts using the socket set. The bolt flange mates the muffler assembly to the catalytic converter or resonator, if applicable.

4

Locate the hangers or rubber fasteners still holding the loose muffler assembly underneath the vehicle chassis. Also, refer to a vehicle specific repair guide for the locations of any other bolts securing the muffler in place.

5

Remove the remaining bolts and lift the muffler assembly off the hangers, if applicable. Place the removed muffler alongside its corresponding hardware.

6

Unbolt the resonator from the catalytic converter piping, if applicable. If there is not a resonator skip this step. Review the installation instructions that came with your new exhaust pipe. Complete any other removal procedures specific to your vehicle

Installing New Muffler & Tailpipe

7

Loosely fasten the two flange bolts mating the muffler assembly and catalytic converter together by way of the two-bolt flange. Also, mount a gasket in-between the flange and new muffler assembly, if included with the new system.

8

Reinstall any fasteners or clamps that secured the muffler piping in place prior to removal. Hook the proper piping connectors to the corresponding exhaust hangers specific to your vehicle. Do not tighten.

9

Mount the new tailpipe and secure to the muffler piping, if applicable. Refer to the new exhaust installation instructions for the specifics.

10

Align the new exhaust piping in its proper position. Leave at least a -inch space between piping and bodywork to avoid cosmetic damage due to exhaust heat.

11

Tighten the two-bolt flange bolts and proceed with tightening each bolt, clamp or fastener from the front to rear of the vehicle. Refer to the proper torque specifications required by each bolt in your owner manual or installation instructions.

12

Reconnect the vehicle battery and turn on the vehicle. Listen for exhaust leaks.

The Ford Excursion is a full-size sport utility vehicle that was in production from 2000 to 2005. The blower motor delivers hot and cold air into the cab of the vehicle for temperature-control purposes. The procedure for replacing the blower fan in an Excursion varies slightly according to the engine in the vehicle. The engine options for a Ford Excurion include 5.4-liter, 6.8-liter and 7.3-liter engines.

Instructions

1

Perform this step only if your vehicle has a 7.3-liter engine. Detach the electrical connector from the vacuum pump. Disconnect the bolts from the mounting bracket of the blower motor with a socket wrench. Remove the hose from the vacuum pump on the blower motor and disconnect the vacuum pump. Remove the mounting bracket from the vehicle.

2

Perform this step only if your vehicle has a 5.4-liter or 6.8-liter engine. Remove the electrical connector from the speed control servo. Disconnect the mounting bolts from the servo with a socket wrench and remove the servo from the vehicle.

3

Disconnect the electrical connector and ventilation tube from the blower motor. Remove the retaining screws from the blower motor with a socket wrench and remove the blower motor from the vehicle without damaging the blower motor wheel.

4

Release the push clip on the blower motor wheel and disconnect the wheel from the blower motor.

5

Install the blower motor wheel to the new blower motor and attach the retaining clip for the wheel. Mount the blower motor to the vehicle and tighten the retaining screws for the blower motor to between 18 and 31 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the ventilation tube and electrical connector for the blower motor.

6

Install the components you removed in steps 1 or 2 to complete the installation of the new blower motor.

A cars battery connects to the vehicle through the terminals, which are the sleeves that fit over the battery posts. Acid and rust degrade the terminals, which, if not monitored, will cause the terminals to fracture and break. The wiring to the terminals is typically covered with rubber, protecting it from exposure to acid and water. Replacing the terminal is similar to splicing a line and only requires a few tools to complete.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the terminals from the vehicles battery starting with the negative terminal. Use a ratchet to loosen the terminal then pull it free from the battery.

2

Cut the damaged wire and terminal off with bolt or wire cutters. Cut the wire just behind the existing rubber sleeve to remove any corroded parts of the wire.

3

Use a razor blade or utility knife to trim off 1 inch of rubber from the rubber sleeve. Slice the rubber along its length then slide the rubber around the circumference of the wire. Pull the rubber off to expose the clean wire.

4

Place the wire into the new terminal retaining bolts. You have a few options for replacement terminals. The easiest to use will have the retaining bolts that tighten down onto the wire with a ratchet. The other types require specialized crimping tools to grab the wire. Tighten the retaining bolts until the wire cannot be pulled from the new terminal.

5

Install the terminals back onto the battery, starting with the positive connection. Make sure the terminals are pushed all the way onto the battery posts. Tighten down the terminals until they are secure.

The cast iron exhaust manifold is located on the side of the block under the valve cover. It removes hot exhaust fumes from the internal combustion process and funnels them into the exhaust system and out the tailpipe. Its fitted to the block on threaded studs. After removing it and taking apart the manifold sections, you may encounter a broken threaded bolt, due to rust and corrosion caused by extreme heat and high moisture conditions. The bolts must be extracted and replaced to prevent exhaust leaks containing dangerous levels of carbon monoxide that could enter the passenger compartment.

Instructions

1

Spray the broken bolt with penetrating oil using the red straw to direct the spray directly onto and around the bolt. Tap the bolt lightly to allow the oil to soak in around the threads. Let the bolt sit for a while. Respray a few more times and let it sit overnight if youre not in a hurry to remove it.

2

Grip the remnant of the broken bolt with a pair of vise grips or locking pliers if it sticks out above the manifold surface. Do not break it up any more if it wont come out. Grind it down smooth so its flush with the manifold face and is perpendicular to the drill bit youll be using to drill it out. Mark the center of the bolt with a punch. Try to get the punch mark in the exact center of the bolt.

3

Clamp the manifold securely to a drill press with a vise. You wont be able to hold it still by hand. Use a sharp, short drill bit as the bolts are harder than the manifold. Adjust the chuck so its close to the manifold to cut down on free play and flex in the drill.

4

Put on safety glasses and direct a strong light at the broken bolt. Drill carefully into the center of the broken bolt using the punch mark as a guide. Do not force the drill in an attempt to drill out the bolt in one stroke. Back the bit out several times to clean metal shavings out of the drilled hole. Be careful not to let the drill seek its own path alongside the bolt and ruin the threads.

5

Clean out and reuse the original threads with a new bolt after removing the metal from the old bolt. Take one of the good bolts to the parts dealer to match it exactly. Replace any of the old bolts that are rusted or corroded to prevent them from breaking and allowing exhaust fumes to escape into the engine compartment.

Wheel bearings are important parts of the suspension system of your vehicle. They help support the weight of your vehicle and allow the steering wheel to rotate with the least amount of friction. Like all automobile parts, wheel bearings wear out over time. Worn wheel bearings can be dangerous and must be replaced immediately. Driving with severely worn-out wheel bearings can cause you to lose control of your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Feel for vibrations or wobbling from your steering wheel while you drive. Your steering wheel will shake and sometimes cause you to pull your car to the side when you apply your brakes.

2

Listen for a squealing noise that gets louder as your car picks accelerates. Hearing this noise coming from your tires or steering wheel indicates that the wheel bearings are worn.

3

Listen for grinding noises coming from the steering wheel as you drive. A grinding noise is the most common noise youll hear and is indicative of worn-out wheel bearings.

4

Feel for looseness in the wheel while driving. Any looseness indicates a worn-out wheel bearing.

The largest cost faced by an auto mechanic is that of tools. Mechanics need many tools for highly specialized applications. These are just a few examples of the types of specialized tools that a mechanic might have in their garage. If a mechanic doesnt have the right tool for a job, he ends up having to refer the customer to a garage that does.

Brake Tools

Working on brake systems requires a number of tools that arent found in the average home garage. Automotive shops will use regular tools like sockets and screwdrivers when working on brakes but they also need tools like a lathe for smoothing rotors. Caliper spreaders, ABS scanning tools and a brake bleeding system are just a few of the tools that a shop will need so that they can fix and change brakes in a car.

Transmission Tools

Working on a transmission requires specialized tools as well. Even a basic automatic transmission fluid change requires a specialized drain plug removal tool. More complex work on a transmission requires more complex tools. A spring compressor holds springs in place so you can work on a transmission without tying up a hand holding a spring. A torque converter gives you the force that you need to loosen transmission bolts. Also, L-type seal pullers are used to remove hard to reach transmission seals.

Manufacturer Specific Tools

Many garages choose to specialize in repairing specific types of cars. This is because there are often tools required to work on proprietary parts that cannot be replaced or repaired with generic tools. This is especially the case in high end automobiles like BMW and Mercedes. For example, different tools are required to set the camshaft timing on different types of BMW engines, meaning that you need more than one tool for completing the same job on different models made by a single company. Having all the tools necessary to do all the jobs on all brands of cars would be very cost prohibitive.

Specialized Computer Tools

Most parts in a modern vehicle are either controlled or monitored by computers. While generic tools exist, manufacturer tools are required for mechanics to be able to truly monitor, re-set or reprogram every aspect of the system that they need to work with. In addition to custom tools from vehicle manufacturers for working with the vehicles computer system, mechanics also require subscriptions to the companys update service that will provide them with all the latest updates and codes.

Wheel bearings allow the wheels on your car to rotate with minimal friction and support your cars weight. Most rear wheel bearings are engineered to last about 150,000 miles but sometimes they fail prematurely thanks to poor adjustment, contamination or loss of grease. If you want to keep your car running properly, youll need to keep your rear wheel bearings in near-perfect condition.

Make Noise

The first symptom of bad rear wheel bearings is usually noise. You might hear rumbling, growling or chirping coming from the vicinity of your rear wheels. Once you hear this noise, you need to take your car in to have it serviced immediately. Expect the amount of noise your rear wheel bearings are making to be proportional to the speed you are driving, whether you are accelerating, coasting or decelerating. The noise might sound different while you are making turns or disappear at some speeds entirely. Most bad rear wheel bearings are identified when drivers complain about this noise.

Play

Bad rear wheel bearings may also result in play. Play can allow steering wander. This means that although you are holding your steering wheel still, your car drifts to the left or right as you drive. Play can be dangerous for drivers, especially on highways. Play reduces the amount of control you have over your vehicle. If your rear wheel bearings are sealed and they play, that is a sure sign that they need to be replaced. If the rear wheel bearings are adjustable, you or your mechanic may be able to adjust the bearings after removing, cleaning and inspecting them. Play is usually a sign that your rear wheel bearings are worn, but it could also mean that the hub nut backed off or the bearings were not properly adjusted.

Turn Your ABS Light On

If your anti-lock brake system light is on and you cant for the life of you figure out why, check your rear wheel bearings. If your car is equipped with anti-lock brakes and sealed hub assemblies with an integral anti-lock brake sensor or tone ring, the ABS light will come on if a wheel speed sensor is reading erratically or has no signal. The anti-lock brake system will set a fault code corresponding to the sensor location and disable the anti-lock brake system until the fault is fixed. The only way to fix this is to replace your hub assembly. You cant repair a sealed hub assembly and must replace the entire unit.

Cause Your Car to Lose Its Wheels

In the most extreme of cases, ignoring your bad rear wheel bearing can cause your car to lose a wheel. One of the rear wheels on your vehicle may fly right off while you are cruising down a highway, placing everyone in its path in danger. Losing a wheel on a freeway while traveling at high speeds could result in a deadly accident. Thus, if you have any reason to believe that your rear wheel bearings are bad, you must immediately take your car to a mechanic to have them examined.

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, as the name implies, recirculates some of the exhaust gases that are emitted from your Honda Odyssey. The EGR valve cools down the gases and runs them through the engine a second time. This allows greater fuel efficiency and helps reduce emissions. If your Odyssey is idling rough or does not accelerate as it should, an EGR valve could be causing the problem.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal. Make sure that the cable connector cannot touch metal to prevent accidental electrical shorts in the Odyssey.

2

Locate the EGR valve. Look for the vehicle vacuum schematic on the underside of the hood or consult an Odyssey repair manual. Usually, the vacuum wires are green; however, if an aftermarket hose has been installed, this may not be the case. Assuming that you are working with the original equipment, follow the green hose to the EGR valve.

3

Remove the vacuum hose and unclip the electrical connectors from the EGR valve. Remove the bolts holding the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold. These likely will be 10 mm bolts, but they could be 12 mm if theyve been replaced with aftermarket parts. Use a ratchet with an extension to remove the bolts.

4

Unbolt the EGR valve piece from the exhaust manifold tube that delivers the gas back into the combustion system. You will need a large crescent wrench for this step. If the bolt sticks or is rusty -- and only if the engine is cold -- use a few bursts of PB Blaster spray penetrating lubricant on the bolt and give it a few taps with the wrench. This will allow the spray to work into the threads of the bolt.

5

Examine the area from which you removed the old valve for carbon deposits. Use a generous amount of Carb Cleaner and scrape the deposits off with a small brush. Inspect the gasket for wear, carbon deposits or cracks. If the replacement EGR valve you bought was an OEM product, a new replacement gasket should be included.

6

Install the new gasket and EGR valve. Reconnect all the parts in the reverse order that you removed them. You may want to spray some anti-seize lubricant on the bolts as you reinstall them. This will make removing the bolts in the future an easier task.

Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery terminal. Then, drive your Honda Odyssey a short distance. If you are still experiencing the same issues, you may need to replace the exhaust manifold or clean out the carbon deposits.

The Plymouth Breeze was a mid-sized automobile produced from 1996 to 2000 and offered with either a 2.0L or 2.4L engine. The vehicle sold well and is still a common sight on the road. If your 1999 Breeze has developed a high-pitch squeal emanating from the rear wheels, you should suspect that a bearing is worn. Proper installation of a wheel bearing requires that you tighten the attaching bolts or lock-nut to the proper torque.

Bearing Overview

The rear suspension of a 1999 Plymouth Breeze uses standard shock absorbers. The rear wheels use sealed type wheel bearings, which are not serviceable. They are designed to last the life of the vehicle, but this is rarely the case. Often the bearings can be damaged, allowing dirt and water to enter. This causes the bearing to wear rapidly, requiring you to eventually replace the bearing.

Rear Wheel Bearing Description

The rear wheel bearings are a combined unit. The five bolts that protrude from the hub flange support the brake drum and wheel and are what the wheel lug nuts attach to. The hub and bearing assembly is attached to the rear knuckle spindle and held on with a single lock nut. If you remove this lock nut for any reason you must replace it with a new one.

Checking the Bearings

Jack up and support the rear of your Plymouth Breeze. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. Inspect the bearings for grease. Slowly rotate the hubs, feeling for roughness, resistance or lateral movement, any of which may indicate that you need to change the hub/bearing assembly.

Rear Bearing Removal

To remove the rear bearings, first jack up and support the rear of your Plymouth. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry off each metal hub dust cap. Use a socket wrench to remove the hub lock nuts. Pull the hub/bearing assemblies straight out of the spindles. When reassembling the bearing and hub assemblies, tighten the new lock nuts to 185 foot-pounds. Torque the wheel lug nuts to 95 foot-pounds.

Welding thin steel exhaust tubing requires patience and the correct equipment to get a sealed weld. The difficult part of welding thin walled steel tubing is maintaining your weld puddle without overheating the connection will result in the puddle melting through the tubing. With a properly set up MIG welder and a little practice, you easily create a sealed weld joint on the thin diameter steel tubing. MIG welders are widely available at rental stores or for purchase at your local welding supply retailer.

Instructions

1

Read the owners manual for the welding machine to determine how to change the feeder wheels over to accept the .023 welding wire.

2

Spool the welder with the .023 solid welding wire after you switch the wire feeder wheels.

3

Open and close the valve located on top of the bottle of shielding gas to clear dirt and debris from the threaded area.

4

Turn the threads of the MIG welder gas regulator clockwise to attach the regulator to the bottle of shielding gas. Set the adjustable wrench to fit the regulator nut and lock the nut to seal the connection. Open the valve to send gas to the MIG welder.

5

Turn on the welding machine and place the grounding clamp on a piece of metal.

6

Point the tip of the MIG gun at the metal and depress the trigger of the MIG gun. Listen to the sound coming from the weld area between the MIG cup and the grounded piece of metal. Adjust the heat and wire speed settings until you hear a sound similar to eggs frying in a pan.

7

Place the ends of two pieces of steel exhaust tubing tightly together and ground the steel tubing with the grounding clamp.

8

Wearing your safety glasses, place the end of the MIG wire protruding from the tip of the MIG gun against the center of the weld joint and depress the MIG guns trigger for 1 second to create a tack weld. Roll the pipe, placing tack welds around the weld joint.

9

Put on your welding helmet and welding gloves.

10

Rest the wrist of the hand that you are holding the MIG gun with on a firm flat surface and grasp the tacked pieces of pipe with the other hand.

11

Align the wire extending from the MIG gun with the weld joint, flick your head forward to lower your welding helmet, and depress the trigger of the MIG gun.

12

Move the MIG 1/8th of an inch and stop to let the weld puddle build, when the weld puddle reaches around 1/8th of an inch tall, move the MIG gun another 1/8th of an inch. Continue the process, turning the pipe as needed to expose more weld joint until you weld around the entire weld joint and reach the spot where you began welding the joint of the steel tube.

13

Allow the joint to cool thoroughly before you move the welded tubing.

A NOx control sensor measures the nitrogen oxide that a car puts out. If this sensor fails, a car will not pass its emissions test. To test the NOx sensor on a car, use an On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) scanner. You do not have to be a car mechanic to do so.

Instructions

1

Turn off the ignition and locate the cars Data Link Connector. This is a 16-pin plug that an OBD scanner plugs into, and is generally located under the cars steering wheel.

2

Connect the OBD scanner to the Data Link Connector. Switch on the ignition. Turn on the OBD scanner.

3

Press the Read button on the scanner. (Some scanners will have a Scan button instead.) Wait for the troubleshooting codes to appear on the scanners display.

4

Look up the troubleshooting code in the scanners manual to see if the NOx sensor is faulty. If the sensor is faulty, you must have it replaced to pass an emissions test.

5

Unplug the scanner from the car and turn off the ignition.

The LT1 is an eight-cylinder, 5.7-liter engine that was installed in various General Motors vehicles from 1992 to 1997. For example, the LT1 was the standard engine in the Chevrolet Caprice, Camaro and Pontiac Firebird during this period. This engine requires a balancer, or damper, on the crankshaft to minimize the vibrations that can result from a rapidly-spinning crankshaft. The crankshaft balancer is a circular weight that fits on the crankshaft over the crankshaft hub.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure you dont start the engine inadvertently. Disconnect the air intake duct from the engine to gain access to the crankshaft.

2

Place a floor jack under the front of the vehicle, making sure the jack is not under any sheet metal, such as the oil pan. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the retaining nuts for the engine mounts.

3

Remove the cooler unit for the power steering fluid with a socket wrench to access the crankshaft.

4

Raise the engine slightly with a screw jack to access the crankshaft balancer. Remove the mounting bolts and screws from the balancer with a socket wrench.

5

Attach a suitable removal tool to the crankshaft balancer, and remove it from the crankshaft. Be sure to use a tool specifically designed for this purpose, rather than a universal claw. The wrong tool can break the bond between the crankshaft hub and its outer ring.

A paint ding happens to your parked car when someone in a parked car next to your car opens a car door too quickly or too far and the car door touches your car. Sometimes your paint is scratched. Other times, theres a small dent. Almost always, a streak of paint from the other persons card winds up on your door. These problems are structurally insignificant but aesthetically displeasing and frustrating. Fortunately, there are ways to significantly improve the appearance of parking lot dings.

Instructions

Steps for Surface Marks

1

Wash your car. Sometimes the act of washing alone will remove some of the offending paint and will help buff out any scratches made to your paint job. Regardless, washing your car removes dirt and dust so that your efforts will be more effective when you focus on addressing the ding directly.

2

Pour a small amount of acetone on a soft rag and lightly rub the ding. Observe to see if anything happens. If acetone removes the ding, then stop here and proceed to step 4. If acetone does not work, then proceed with the use of rubbing compound, available at automotive supply stores.

3

Spread rubbing compound on the ding. Rub with a clean cloth in a circular motion. When the ding disappears, begin rubbing from side to side to get rid of the circular buffing marks.

4

Clean the affected area with polishing compound and then seal with wax.

Steps for Deeper Scratches

5

Wash the car and then spread black shoe polish over the affected area.

6

Sand the panel using ample water and 2000-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Continue sanding until the shoe polish disappears.

7

Buff out sanding scratches using rubbing compound and a soft cloth.

8

Seal the affected area with wax.

Your 1997 Ford Explorer has two oxygen sensors built into the exhaust system. The oxygen sensors monitor the amount of oxygen in the exhaust to help the truck regulate how much fuel it burns. When an oxygen sensor fails, your truck may burn more fuel than necessary, reducing your fuel mileage drastically. You can replace the oxygen sensors quickly in your own driveway. Buy new sensors from an auto parts store or a Ford dealership.

Instructions

1

Raise your Explorer with a jack and secure it on a set of jack stands. Locate the oxygen sensors on the exhaust positioned before and after the catalytic converter.

2

Disconnect the wiring harness from the oxygen sensor by pulling the connector straight off. Use an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet to remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust pipe.

3

Install the new oxygen sensor by hand to avoid cross threading the sensor. Once the sensor is secure, tighten it with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

4

Press the wiring harness connector onto the new sensor until it is secure. The wiring harness should click when it is secure.

5

Repeat the process for the second oxygen sensor if you are replacing both. Raise the vehicle with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck to the ground.

The Hyundai Accent is a subcompact car that has been in production since 1994. The engine in this vehicle has an overhead camshaft, which generally requires a timing belt. The timing belt synchronizes the movements of the crankshaft and camshaft. The 2001 Hyundai Accent has a non-freewheeling engine, so you will typically need to replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles. This procedure requires you to remove additional components to access the timing belt.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Put a drain pan under the radiator and remove the drain plug, allowing the coolant to drain out. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and push the pulley aside. Turn the belt tensioner to loosen the drive belt. Disconnect the crankshaft pulley and the cover for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to move the No. 1 piston to the top dead center position. Loosen the bolts on the tensioner with a socket wrench and move the tensioner as close to the water pump as possible. Tighten the adjusting bolt for the tensioner to hold it in place. Remove the timing belt from its pulley. Disconnect the sprocket bolt for the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Detach the flange and sprocket from the crankshaft.

3

Install the sprocket and flange to the crankshaft. Torque the sprocket bolt to between 103 and 111 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Align the timing marks on the crankshaft with those on the camshaft sprocket by turning the crankshaft clockwise.

4

Loosen the adjusting bolt on the belt tensioner and move the tensioner back to its normal position. Place the new timing belt over the sprocket of the crankshaft and slip the back of the belt onto the tensioner. Turn the sprocket of the camshaft clockwise to tighten the straight side of the belt.

5

Tighten the adjusting bolt for the tensioner to between 15 and 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Then, torque the pivot bolt to between 15 and 18 foot-pounds. Turn the crankshaft clockwise one complete turn to seat the timing belt.

6

Loosen the attaching bolts on the tensioner and allow the tensioner to position itself. Tighten the bolts with a socket wrench. Adjust the belt tension so that the teeth come halfway across the head of the tensioner adjusting bolt when you pull the belt towards the water pump.

7

Connect the cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench and connect the crankshaft pulley. Fasten the mounting bolts for the water pump pulley and refill the radiator with coolant. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.

R134 refrigerant replaced the old R12 Freon as an environmentally friendly alternative for powering automotive air conditioning systems in the late 1990s. While replacing the R134 isnt a necessary operation, you may need to evacuate and recharge the AC system in order to perform a leak repair or replace a failed component. There are special service machines specifically designed to work with R134 air conditioning systems, which are not readily available to the general population. With that in mind, its best to leave this repair to a certified professional.

Instructions

1

Open the Buicks hood and locate the AC service port caps, one red and one blue (usually), located on the silver AC manifold lines and the silver receiver/dryer tank. Remove the caps by hand to expose the AC service ports.

2

Attach the color-coordinated AC service hoses from the AC service machine to the AC service ports. Tighten the service hoses onto the ports by hand.

3

Evacuate the Buicks AC system with the AC service machine following the machines specific user guide. This procedure will vary according to the year, make and model of your AC machine, but it normally involves setting the switches or dials to the evacuation setting.

4

Vacuum test the Buicks AC system with the AC service machine following the machines user guide to make sure there are no leaks.

5

Recharge the Buicks AC system with the AC service machine following the machines specific user guide. Disconnect the AC service hoses. Reinstall the service port caps and close the hood.

The Ford Probe was a two-door car produced from 1989 to 1997 in the United States. Throughout the duration of the Probes development, all four-cylinder engine models had the crankshaft position sensor located in the same area of the engine. The role of this sensor is to detect the position of the crankshaft, sending data of the location to the vehicles on-board computer. Having a correctly placed, working crankshaft position sensor allows the Probe to run at optimal performance.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the hood retaining clamps, and raise the hood. Support the hood in an upright position by elevating the hood support rod, from the down-right position touching the front horizontal side of the Probe to the hook located on the outermost underside of the hood.

2

Examine the passenger side of the engine, focusing on the lower engine section.

3

Reach above the crankshaft pulley, where the Probe GT crankshaft position sensor is located. It should be mounted in the engine block. The crankshaft position sensor will appear as a thin black chord.

Sandblasting is a mechanical technique that is commonly used to remove rust and old paintwork from auto body parts. It is a more aggressive method than conventional sanding and allows for the removal of pitted rust as well as any corrosion that sits on the surface of a car. However, sandblasting can leave small indentations in metal. For this reason, the process should only be used on thick metals that will not warp or disintegrate easily.

Instructions

1

Remove all external fittings from the auto body parts and, wherever possible, remove panels from vehicles completely. Place the removed panels on a panel stand and score the existing paintwork lightly with a metal scraper. Put on a pair of protective gloves and apply a generous coating of water-washable paint stripper to the paintwork, leaving it on for 15 minutes. Use the metal scraper to remove paint from the surface and rinse the panel with warm water to kill off the active ingredient in the stripper. Dry the panel thoroughly with workshop wipes.

2

Use a P80 grit sanding disc on an orbital sander to remove any remaining traces of paint or primer. Ensure the entire panel is sanded to remove all surface rust and clean it thoroughly before inspecting. Any remaining instances of rust should now be clearly visible and these will be sandblasted to ensure adequate removal.

3

Place the auto body panel in the sandblasting booth on a sturdy stand. Plug the sandblasting machine into a main outlet and fit an air-line over the appropriate coupling. Put on a pair of protective coveralls, safety goggles, a face mask and gloves before beginning to work. Ensure that no areas of your skin are exposed. Turn on the extraction unit of the sandblasting booth using the operation panel provided and ensure that all entry points to the booth are closed and sealed.

4

Switch on the sandblasting machine. Place the nozzle of the sandblasting machine over the rusted area of the panel and pull back the trigger to release the particles of sand. These will penetrate the rust. They should only be aimed at the panel for a few seconds at a time. Carry out regular visual checks to ensure that the particles of sand are not permeating the metal. Continue this until all of the rust has been removed.

5

Turn off the sandblasting machine. Blow off all of the particles of sand from the auto body panel and remove the panel from the sandblasting booth once it has been turned off. A small application of body filler will be required if the sand has pitted the metal before priming can take place.

From time to time, drivers unintentionally leave the lights or radio running on the car and let the battery run dead. Automotive and outdoor recreation vehicle batteries are not cheap and most owners try to avoid replacing them any more often than necessary. One way to avoid early replacement is to recharge the battery and determine if it is dead or just in need of a recharge. Recharging the battery can take between a few and 30 hours. If you dont have a battery charger handy, you can let the cars alternator recharge the battery while the engine is running.

Instructions

Recharging After a Jump Start

1

Open the hood of your car and locate the battery. Most manufacturers place the battery in either the right-front or left-front of the engine compartment. Clean any corrosion from the battery posts using a stiff wire brush.

2

Pull the front of another car up next to the battery. Bring the battery of the other car as close to your battery as possible.

3

Turn off the engine of the running car. Providing that the other cars battery is fully charged, it will have enough power to start the car with your battery connected to it.

4

Connect a pair of battery cables between the two cars. The order that you connect the cables is important. Connect the red (positive) jumper cable ends to the two positive posts of the two batteries -- the one on the dead battery first. Connect the black (negative) jumper cable first to the negative post of the car with the functioning battery and then connect the other negative clamp to a piece of unpainted metal on the car with the dead battery -- as far from it as you can. This is to obviate the possibility of an explosion, even though this is not likely.

5

Start the engine of the other car and rev it up for a few minutes. After revving the cars engine, try to start your car. If you have trouble, check the cables and ensure you have attached the cables firmly to both vehicles.

6

Remove the jumper cables in the reverse order of the way you attached them. Allow the car to idle for 30 minutes or drive it, to recharge the battery. Then, take the battery to a battery charger to get a full recharge. If the battery fails to hold the charge after using the battery charger and you cant start your car, you need to purchase a new battery.

Charging with a Battery Charger

7

Take your battery charger near the front of the car with the hood opened. There is no need to remove the battery from the vehicle to use the battery charger to recharge your battery.

8

Turn the battery charger off and ensure that the plug is not in the wall socket. This minimizes the chance of an accidental shock when hooking up the battery.

9

Connect the positive lead of the charger to the positive post of the battery and the negative lead of the charger to the engine block or car frame. Most cars have a negative ground and you hook up the charger as outlined, but for cars that have a positive ground -- this is very uncommon -- hook the charger up in the reverse. For a positive-ground car, connect the negative lead of the charger to the negative pole of the battery and the positive lead to the car frame or engine block.

10

Set the controls of the charger, if present, to 12V, charging current value,;select between manual and automatic and set the time on the timer, if the charger has one.

11

Plug the charger into the wall socket. Ensure the plug and wall socket are equipped for grounded prongs.

12

Check the ammeter on the charger to check that the charger is charging the battery. Allow the charger to run until charging stops; depending on the charge level of the battery this may require at least 24 hours. Most chargers have a trickle charger that will keep the battery charged until it is disconnected. The trickle charging occurs at lower amperage than the normal mode.

13

Unplug the battery charger and move the switch selector to the "Off" position. Remove the charger clip attached to the car frame or engine block. Finally, unclip the lead attached to the battery post.

14

Use a voltmeter to test the voltage between the two posts on the battery. If the battery shows no charge, you will have to replace the battery.

The Kia Sedona has a complex exhaust system comprising two manifold converters, a front dual-chambered exhaust pipe, the catalytic converter, two mufflers and a resonated tailpipe. If the catalytic converter gets clogged or breaks down internally, it can be replaced without having to replace any other components.

Instructions

1

Place the Sedona on a car lift and bring the vehicle all the way up on the lift.

2

Put on the cutting glasses and light the oxyacetylene torch. Cut the two bolts on the front converter flange with the torch. Cut the bolts flush to the flange on the converter side.

3

Cut the two bolts on the rear converter flange in the same manner.

4

Shut off the torch and switch the cutting glasses to safety glasses. Put on the safety gloves.

5

Knock out the remainder of the bolts on the front flange connection using the hammer and a long-stemmed punch. Knock out the remainder of the bolts on the rear converter flange. Allow the converter to cool down.

6

Remove the catalytic converter hangers from the rubber exhaust hangers and remove the converter.

7

Clean the flange connections of the front pipe and the front muffler that the converter attaches to using the angled die grinder and a coarse reconditioning disc.

8

Install the new converter and gaskets. Place the converter hanger into the rubber exhaust hangers first to hold it up, insert the gaskets between the flanges and place the bolts through the flange holes to support the converter. Use a flat washer against the bolt head on one side and the lock washer and nut on the other side.

9

Tighten the bolts and nuts with the impact gun, swivel and a socket while holding the bolt heads with a hand wrench.

10

Remove the debris below the Sedona and lower it down to the floor.

11

Start up the engine and relift the Sedona to check for exhaust leaks at the front or rear flange connections.

An accident can leave your vehicle without a functioning side mirror. It is simple to replace a side mirror, but whether you buy a new replacement mirror or a used one, the mirror probably will not match the paint color of your car. A few coats of paint can transform the replacement mirror and make it look as if it was the original.

Instructions

1

Locate the factory paint color code for your car. This is the key to getting the best color match for your replacement mirror. Check the records for your car or contact your local dealer to find the code. Buy the paint and primer from an auto parts store.

2

Lightly sand the plastic on the replacement side mirror with fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe away the sanding dust from the mirror with a damp cloth.

3

Tape off any areas of the replacement mirror you do not want painted, using painters tape. Set the replacement mirror on a drop cloth in a well-ventilated area.

4

Spray the mirror with aerosol automotive primer. Apply the primer in two light coats. Let each coat dry before handling or applying paint or primer.

5

Spray the mirror with aerosol automotive paint. Again, apply the paint in light coats. Apply three coats of the paint, letting each coat dry before applying the next. Give the mirror 24 hours to dry before handling it. Remove the painters tape.

In a carbureted Harley, gasoline flows from the gas station, to the gas tank, by gravity through the petcock to the carburetor, then to the intake valves after which it explodes. In a fuel-injected Harley the gas is pumped from the fuel tank to the fuel injectors, which spray the gasoline into the intake valves. The most likely components to malfunction in a fuel-injected bike are the fuel pump or any of the multiple electronic sensors on such a bike. The fuel system on a fuel-injected Harley is diagnosed electronically. Troubleshooting the fuel system on a carbureted Harley is less susceptible to electronic gremlins and may be more illustrative of what makes these vehicles go.

Instructions

1

Open the gas cap and smell the gasoline. Shine a flashlight into the tank. If you see water or diesel oil floating on top of the gasoline, you must drain the fuel from the carbureted Harley.

2

Disconnect the hose clamp that secures the fuel line to the petcock with a flat-head screwdriver. Replace the fuel line at the petcock with a 2-foot length of 1/4-inch rubber hose.

3

Insert the open end of the hose in an empty, 5-gallon gas can. Open the petcock to "reserve" and drain the fuel.

4

Unscrew the petcock from the bottom of the fuel tank with an open-end wrench. Examine and, if necessary, clean the fuel filter.

5

Reinstall the petcock with an open-end wrench. Replace the fuel line on the petcock using a screwdriver and put 1 gallon of fresh gasoline in the fuel tank.

6

Open the petcock, open the choke, put the bike in neutral and attempt to start the motorcycle.

7

Open the throttle if the bike starts and fully close the choke. Run the motorcycle until the rocker box covers are warm to the touch and allow the throttle to return to normal idle. If the engine dies at a normal idling speed take the following steps.

8

Restart the motorcycle and idle the bike with the choke pulled halfway out. If the bike runs with the choke half out, but not pushed fully in, the fuel-air mixture in the carburetor has too much air and not enough gasoline.

The Volkswagen Beetle is one of the most beloved cars in history with movies, traditions and games stemming from the small, economic German-made car. Perhaps best recognized because of the movie "Herbie," VW Beetles are easy to distinguish from other cars and are likely the most recognized model the German car maker ever made. VWs are known for their durability and long life, in addition to their compact size, but like other cars, get worn out over time and may need to be restored.

Instructions

1

Assess your VW Beetle to determine what will need to be restored. The level and methods of restoration will differ depending on the condition of your Beetle.

2

Start with the frame. Get underneath the car and figure out what kind of shape the frame of the car is in. Repair as needed, if possible, or scavenge for a new frame at a junkyard if its beyond repair.

3

Move up to the engine. If youre not overly mechanically inclined, consider taking the Beetle into a mechanic to have the engine looked over, repaired, cleaned and filters changed.

4

Restore the interior of your Beetle. Depending on the condition of your car, this may include several different processes. The upholstery may need redone. If so, there are companies that specialize in reupholstering vehicles or you can do it yourself by using a sewing machine, stretching pliers and hog ring pliers. Replace the dash, steering wheel or other interior items that need replaced.

5

Restore the exterior of your vehicle by either taking it to a professional or by doing it yourself. If you chose to do it yourself, sand the surface down with an electric sander and sand paper. Prime the beetle with primer and then sand it down again. Apply a coat of paint and let it dry. Apply additional coats of paint until the metal is completely covered and the shade is to your liking. Finish with a gloss coat to protect the paint and add depth to its appearance.

Shade tree mechanics are likely to use two main types of torque wrenches. "Beam type" torque wrenches are cheaper and require the user to read an analog scale that stretches across a beam on the top of the wrench just under the handle. With a "click type" torque wrench the mechanic sets the desired torque on a round gauge, and the head of the wrench slips when the fastener is tightened to that preset value. Sears sells more torque wrenches than any other company in the United States.

Instructions

1

Wear safety glasses, because metal fasteners sometimes break. Attach a socket to the torque wrench.

2

Disregard torque readings less than 20 percent of the full scale. Do not estimate torque readings greater than 100 percent of the full scale.

3

Inspect and distrust any torque wrench you drop or that you suspect may have been dropped by someone else.

4

Store click-type torque wrenches with the gauge set to the lowest setting. Always store them in protective cases.

5

Apply a specific torque value to a fastener with a torque wrench only during final tightening. Never use a torque wrench as the primary means of tightening or loosening fasteners. Use a socket wrench instead.

6

Grasp a torque wrench in the center of the handle, because torque wrenches are length specific. If you must use two hands, put one hand on top of the other.

7

Torque a fastener with a slow, steady movement. Never jerk a torque wrench.

8

Recalibrate a torque wrench after every 5,000 uses.

The Duramax engines are a series of diesel engines that General Motors has manufactured for its larger trucks since 2001. Several different versions of these engines exist, but they all have a displacement of 6.6 liters. Duramax engines use direct fuel injection, which does not require an electronic controller. The procedure for rebuilding the fuel injector is generally the same as for all vehicles with a Duramax engine.

Instructions

1

Open your hood. Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of the batteries with a socket wrench. Detach the clips on the fuel lines to the fuel injectors, and disconnect the fuel lines from the injectors. Remove the fuel return lines from the fuel injectors. Plug the open fuel lines with plastic caps to prevent debris from entering the fuel lines.

2

Attach GM special tool J-29873 to a socket wrench, and use this assembly to turn the fuel injector counterclockwise. Make sure you grip the 30 mm hex portion of the fuel injector to avoid damage to the injector. Remove the fuel injector, and cover its ends with plastic caps.

3

Replace the gasket on the fuel injector with a new gasket. Install the new fuel injector to the fuel rail. Fasten the fuel injector into place by turning it clockwise with GM special tool J-29873 and a socket wrench.

4

Attach GM special tool J-29873 to a torque wrench, and torque the fuel injector to 50 foot-pounds. Remove the protective caps from the fuel lines, and connect the fuel lines to the fuel injector. Fasten the retaining nuts for the fuel lines, and tighten them to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Connect the fuel return line to the fuel injector, and attach the clips to the fuel lines. Connect the cables to the negative terminals of the batteries with a socket wrench.

As the weather starts to cool, the dials on the temperature controls in your car will inevitably start to migrate toward the "red" end of the dial. As you furiously rub your hands together after hopping in your car and starting the engine on a cold morning, you wonder why the heater doesnt work until the car is warmed. Unfortunately, it cant.

Your Resting Car

There is a typical temperature range within which the engines of most cars are designed to operate, usually around 200 degrees. When your car is at rest, the mechanical components and fluids are allowed to cool to ambient temperature.

Your Car as it Warms

You turn the key in the ignition, and the belts begin to turn the pulleys on the engine. Coolant is stored and cooled in the radiator, where it is pulled out by the water pump and circulated through the engine. The coolant then passes through an opening in the firewall (the sheet metal panel separating the engine compartment from the cabin of the vehicle) into the heater core. Similar to the radiator, the heater core has small fins through which the heated coolant passes to dissipate heat. This heat is pulled away from the heater core, using fans, and blown into the cars interior.

Your Car After Reaching Operating Temperature

When you have driven your car for a few minutes, the engine has reached normal temperature. The coolant from the radiator is keeping the extreme heat of the engine in check. The fluid circulates through the engine and through the heater core. The fans pull hot air from the heater core into the cabin, which heats your cars interior. Until the engine heats, the coolant remains cool. Until the coolant heats, your heater core remains cool. When your heater core heats, so does your cars interior.

The 1999 Dodge has a dashboard with status lights that indicate a problem. If you cant start your car and your dashboard isnt lighting up, the problem is probably the battery. The car battery sends electricity to your dashboard and to the engine to start. You can test your battery to see if you need a new one.

Instructions

1

Remove the key from the ignition and pop the hood to gain access to the battery.

2

Tighten the connections to the battery terminals with a pair of pliers or a pair of channel locks. Try to start the vehicle.

3

Look over the battery terminal cables. If you find any corrosion on the terminals, use a can of soda and a stiff wire brush to clean the terminals.

4

Use a voltmeter to test the batterys charge. Place the red and black testing leads from the voltmeter to the red and black terminals on the battery.

5

Look at the reading. If its less than 11 to 12 volts, the battery needs to be replaced.

6

Replace the battery with a new one. If the car still wont start, have the car towed to a service shop for a diagnostics test.

All vehicles are equipped with an exhaust system, which is responsible for transporting burned engine exhaust gases from a vehicles engine exhaust port and directing them out of the vehicles tail pipe. Although exhaust systems come in both single and dual varieties, dual exhaust systems have major advantages over single systems.

Engine Power

A dual exhaust system increases engine horsepower by speeding up the rate at which engine combustion gases escape an engine. By allowing engine exhaust gases to exit an engine much quicker than a single exhaust system, a dual exhaust system reduces both engine back pressure and workload, which results in a considerable increase in engine horsepower.

Gas Mileage

Speeding up the rate at which exhaust gases escape an engine allows an engine to "breathe" better and turn easier, thereby increasing vehicle gas mileage by eliminating engine strain.

Engine Longevity

Vehicles equipped with dual exhaust systems generally have engines that last longer.

Engine Efficiency

An engines overall efficiency is related to how effectively it burns its engine combustion gases and removes them through its exhaust system. Dual exhaust systems, which allow for the rapid escape of burned exhaust gases, promote increased engine combustion and combustion gas removal, both of which lead to an increase in overall engine efficiency.

Exhaust Efficiency

Vehicles equipped with dual exhaust systems generally produce more efficient exhaust emissions than do vehicles equipped with single exhaust. Dual exhaust systems allow for more efficient and complete burning of exiting exhaust gases, due in part to the speed at which these gases exit and engine, which leads to an overall increase in exhaust efficiency.

The 2003 Ford Escape is a small sports utility vehicle that features a V6 engine, large cargo capacity and manual transmission. The vehicle is considered a combination between an SUV and a mid-size car. As an Escape owner, you may experience problems intermittently with the vehicle. You can troubleshoot some of the most common problems without being a certified mechanic. In fact, basic troubleshooting of your Ford Escape may save you the expense of consulting an automobile repair specialist.

Instructions

Oil Pressure Indicator Light

1

Turn off your 2003 Ford Escape and raise the hood.

2

Locate and remove the oil dipstick near the engine. The dipstick will be labeled "Oil."

3

Wipe the dipstick clean with a paper towel or rag. Reinsert the dipstick in its hole.

4

Remove the dipstick again and check for the oil level.

5

Add more oil with a funnel if the oil level does not reach at least halfway to the fill line on the dipstick. Replace the dipstick and lower the hood.

Fuses

6

Locate the fuse box on the dashboard of the Ford Escape.

7

Remove the cover of the fuse box and review the diagram on the inside cover.

8

Locate the position of the electrical part that is not working. For example, if your radio is not working, the fuse for it is located in slot 12.

9

Remove the fuse with your index finger and thumb or pliers. If the metal link inside the fuse is separated or broken, the fuse is blown.

10

Insert a new fuse in the slot and replace the fuse box cover.

Overheating

11

Turn off your Ford Escape and allow the vehicle to cool.

12

Raise the hood and locate the coolant reservoir. The reservoir is located on the left side of the Escape.

13

Wipe the area around the reservoir cap. Remove the cap slowly.

14

Compare the amount of coolant in the reservoir to the fill line on the side.

15

Add more coolant and replace the reservoir cap.

Modern car air conditioning systems have a low-pressure switch that shuts down power to the system in the event of a systems malfunction. Low refrigerant pressure can damage the compressor, but the switch will instantly shut down the system to prevent damage to the compressor. The U.S. government requires R-12 refrigerants to be replaced with a more environmentally friendly chemical known as R-134A. To save on time and labor, the pressure switch in your car air conditioning system can be changed while youre converting from R-12 refrigerant to R-134A since both tasks require removal of the existing refrigerant.

Instructions

1

Read your car service manual to know the location of the low-pressure switch in your car air conditioning system. Various car models have various switch locations.

2

Open the hood of your vehicle, or look under the dash board and pinpoint the exact location of the switch. Look at the switch and determine the size of wrench that you will need to unscrew it later.

3

Drive your car to a U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) certified professional licensed to recover R-12 refrigerant, then have the professional remove the R-12 chemical from your car air conditioning system.

4

Open the hood of your vehicle, or go under its dash board to access the pressure switch once the R-12 refrigerant recover process has been completed. Unplug the electrical wire connector plugged onto the tip of the switch, then unscrew the old low-pressure switch, using a wrench.

5

Slip the new o-ring supplied with the pressure switch onto the new switch, then screw the new switch clockwise onto the fitting. The o-ring seals gap between the switch and the fitting to avoid any refrigerant leakage.

6

Plug the wire connector you removed earlier onto the terminals at the tip of the switch, then wipe the base of the switch dry with a dry rag.

7

Tell the EPA certified professional to proceed with refilling the air conditioning system with the new R-134A refrigerant. Start your car and turn on your car air conditioner once the refilling process has been completed. Look at the switch after driving the vehicle with your air conditioner running to check if it has any leaks. Tighten the switch a little bit more if there is a leak.

First introduced on the U.S. market in 1982, Sentra is a compact family car manufactured by Nissan and sold worldwide. All Sentra sedans require periodic adjustment, often referred to as "alignment." The factory specifications for the alignment are the same for all 2002 Sentra models. These specifications are given for a vehicle at curb height with one-half tank of fuel.

Camber

Measured in degrees, camber is the outward or inward tilt of the wheel in relation to the center of the vehicle. The Sentra camber angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. Camber angles must be 50.25 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.45 degrees on the front wheels and -1.00 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.45 degrees on the rear wheels.

Caster

Caster is both the rearward and the forward tilt of the steering knuckle from the true vertical. Caster is the measurement in angles that is responsible for directional stability. The Sentra caster angle should be the same on both rear and front wheels. The angle must be +1.36 degrees with the maximum allowable difference of 0.85 degrees.

Toe

Toe is the difference between the leading and trailing inside edges of the front wheels. Total toe angles on the Sentra models must be +0.11 degrees with measuring range of 0.05 degrees. Toe-in specification should be set at 2 mm with maximum allowable difference of 1 mm.

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) regulates painting cars in home environments as well as in professional auto repair facilities. Car painting laws regulate the type of ingredients that can be included in the car paint and the method in which the paint will be applied. Since laws regarding auto painting at home are subject to change, it is best to check the EPAs website at www.epa.gov regarding volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are included in many types of auto body paint.

EPA Regulation 40CFR63

EPA Regulation 40 in the Federal Code of Regulations, Part 63, Subpart HHHHHH, (also known as regulation 6H) lists the laws for the permissible methods of car paint application and the persons who may apply car paint. Since most auto paints contain VOCs or hazardous air pollutants (HAPs), this regulation was written primarily with those substances in mind. VOCs and HAPs include any substance which has a significant amount of vapor pressure, and which is capable in impacting human health and/or the environment at large.

Included VOCs and HAPs

The EPA regulates spray application of paint or other coatings to any motor vehicles, including "Spray application of coatings to a plastic and/or metal substrate where the coatings contain compounds of chromium (Cr), lead (Pb), manganese (Mn), nickel (Ni), or cadmium (Cd)," according to the EPAs Summary of Regulations Controlling Air Emissions from Coating Operations. If auto paint containing the listed VOPs or HAPs is to be used, the painter must perform the paint job within a certified auto repair facility with EPA-approved equipment, must meet certain qualifications, including obtaining certification on spray gun techniques, spray gun maintenance and environmental compliance before the paint may be applied to the car. Therefore, none of the auto paints containing VOCs or HAPs may be used by people doing their own auto painting at home, regardless of method.

Qualifications For Painters

Home painters may not use VOP-containing paints at all, but are limited to paints which are not harmful to the environment, such as water-based latex or plastic-bound paints. Any home painter may use these paints as long as they are applied with a high volume, low pressure (HVLP) spray gun, electrostatic application, an airless spray gun or air-assisted spray gun.

If you own a General Motors Company (GMC) vehicle, then you need the right tools to locate and diagnose problems. Tech tools allow you to run scans on your vehicle and find the error codes associated with the problem. This is done by reading information from the On-Board Diagnostics (OBD-II) system. Once you figure out the problem, then you can repair it.

OTC PocketScan Code Reader

The OTC 3108 PocketScan Code Reader is a diagnostic tool that allows you to pull up and read the fault diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) on your vehicle. This tool also provides you with the definitions of the DTC codes, and it will erase any DTC code from your system once the problem has been fixed. Other features of this tool include that it can pull up information on the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL), the vehicle identification number (VIN) and the inspection and maintenance (I/M) monitor. You can also obtain freeze frame, which allows you to see performance data on your vehicle at a certain moment in time. The set comes with a user manual and an OBD-II cable, which plugs into your vehicle. As of 2010, this tool costs between $65.00 and $70.00.

GM Tech 2 Kit

The Vetronix OTC 3628 GM Tech 2 Scan Tool Kit is a hand-held diagnostic tool and software program, and it comes with software specifically for GM vehicles. It is compatible with all GM vehicles made from 1992 through 2010. This tool is also scalable, which means that you can upgrade the system without having to purchase a whole new tool. You can use this tool to read DTC and failure code information, and you can also capture freeze frame information. This tool kit comes with power cables, a plastic storage case, code manual, adapter, 32-bit microprocessor and 32 megabyte (MB) Personal Computer Memory Card International Association (PCMCIA) card. As of 2010, this tool costs between $3,500 and $5,300.

Tech 2 Candi Module Adapter

This tool allows you to run diagnostics on controller area network (CAN) interfaces. It is an adapter that connects the Tech 2 Flash diagnostic link cable to the OBD adapter. You can also use this device on OBD I and OBD II platforms. The GM Tech 2 Candi Module Adapter is compatible with the following vehicles as long as they use the CAN interface: Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC Envoy, Saturn ION and Pontiac. As of 2010, this tool costs between $750 and $800, and the model number for this tool is OTC-3625-20.

Anytime you open the cooling system, you run the risk of allowing air into the system, rendering it less efficient. This might be caused by a leak, draining and refilling the radiator or simply alowing the coolant level to drop. If you open the radiator cap and the coolant level doesnt reach the rim, there is air present in the Toyota 22RE cooling system and you need to properly remove it to ensure optimal performance.

Instructions

1

Ensure that the engine is cool. Remove the radiator cap and see the coolant level reaches the rim. If not, add coolant as specified by the owners manual. Add coolant to the overflow reservoir until it reaches the "Full-Cold" level.

2

Place a drain pan under the radiator drain valve, on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. Use your fingers, or a pair of pliers if necesary, to open the radiator drain valve and allow a small amount of coolant to drain out. Close the valve.

3

Refill the radiator. Slowly squeeze the upper radiator hose to ensure it has no air inside. Repeat this a few times and top off the radiator. Replace the radiator cap.

4

Start the vehicle and turn the heater control to "High." Allow the vehicle to warm up until the upper radiator hose is hot to the touch. This means the thermostat has opened and coolant is flowing through the system. Turn off the engine.

5

Check the radiator cap to see if it is cool enough to touch. Place a rag over the cap and slowly open it, releasing pressure a little at a time. Top off the radiator and the overflow reservoir, if necessary. The system is now fully primed with coolant and free of air.

A weedeater, whether electric or gas powered, is a modern convenience. Gone are the days of pulling weeds by hand, or clipping them with a pair of hand shears. But weedeaters can have their problems, and knowing how to fix them is essential to using the weedeater in the most productive way possible. The most common problem with a weedeater is with the line that is fed from the head and does the actual cutting.

Instructions

1

Ensure that the ports that dispense the line are free of debris. Sometimes small stones or a buildup of weeds and grass can clog the ports, preventing the line from feeding properly. Use a screwdriver to remove any debris from the ports. Try the weedeater again.

2

Turn the weedeater over and remove the hub if the weedeater is still having problems. On most models the hub can be removed by hand by pushing down and twisting. Usually there are instructions on the hub for its removal. With the hub removed you will have access to the cutting line.

3

Remove the line spool and remove the line from the spool. There may be knots or entanglements which are preventing the line from feeding correctly. Rewrap the line on the spool and reinstall. If there is little or no line on the spool, purchase a new spool from a home improvement store and install it on the weedeater.

Removing the headrest from the seats in your Chevy Trailblazer may be necessary for replacement or to install seat covers on the seats. The headrest pulls out of the seat, and if you require replacements, the Chevy dealer can supply them or order new ones for you. The headrests should not be removed permanently from the seats, as they are part of the active restraint system in the vehicle and help prevent neck injuries during a crash.

Instructions

1

Locate the adjuster button on the top of the seat back and under the headrest. If the headrest is all the way down against the seat, you will have to slide your hand in between the seatback and headrest and feel for the button.

2

Press the adjuster button in and pull up on the headrest. Hold the button in to slide past the different headrest positions.

3

Slide the headrest up until the posts on the headrest come out of the holes in the seatback. Set the headrest aside.

The easiest way to change the sound of your exhaust is to change out the muffler. Generally, this is done at an exhaust shop. But if you have a welder and some time, you can do it yourself using the following instructions.

Instructions

1

Cut the old muffler off using the reciprocating saw. The muffler will also be supported by an exhaust hanger, so that will need to be pulled out of the rubber hanger as well.

2

Place the new muffler up where the old muffler was located. You want to see where youll need to weld on the new exhaust hanger and then mark that on the muffler with a permanent marker.

3

Weld the muffler to the stock exhaust using the MIG welder.

4

Weld the universal exhaust hanger onto the muffler using the MIG welder. When it has cooled, place the hanger inside the stock mount.

5

Weld the exhaust tip onto the muffler, making sure its aligned correctly with your bumper and looks good.

The Mazda RX7 exhaust may need to be replaced if you live in northern climates where road salt will eat away at the metal underneath the car or if you live near the ocean (where the moisture and salt in the air will do the same thing). The process for installing the RX7 exhaust is simple, though it is physically demanding. Once youve removed the exhaust, you need to know how to properly install a new one.

Instructions

1

Raise the RX 7 onto jack stands. Lift up on the front and rear jack points with a jack and place jack stands under the frame and lower the vehicle onto the stands.

2

Lay the new exhaust system on top of several jack stands so that the entire exhaust is raised off the ground and is oriented so that the catalytic converter is toward the front of the car and the muffler is toward the rear.

3

Slide the rubber fasteners on the exhaust system onto the factory exhaust hangers that are welded to the underside of the car.

4

Install the O2 sensors into the exhaust by threading them into the O2 holes clockwise using the O2 sensor installation/removal tool and a socket wrench.

5

Plug the electrical connectors from the factory wiring harness into the O2 sensor lead wires.

6

Place an exhaust gasket over the end of the exhaust piping that bolts to the manifold and secure the piping to the exhaust manifold on the engine with the factory mounting bolts.

There are only two reasons to replace the timing cover, which acts as the front engine cover, covering the timing chain and sprockets. Either the timing cover is cracked, causing a leak, or a permanently-installed front seal is leaking. Timing cover replacement procedures vary from vehicle to vehicle, depending on whether the engine is installed from front to rear, or transversely. If the engine is transversely mounted, removing the radiator is not required. In any case, follow all procedures outlined in the vehicle manufacturers shop manual for timing cover replacement.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery cables by loosening the bolts holding them in place with a wrench.

2

Place a drain pan below the T-shaped petcock, which is located at the bottom of the vehicles radiator.The radiator is located at the front of the engine compartment. Remove the radiator cap. Loosen the petcock with a pair of pliers, turning the petcock counterclockwise until it is completely open to drain the engine coolant from the radiator.

3

Remove all parts necessary to facilitate the removal of the old timing cover, such as the fan blade and fan shroud, the water pump, the harmonic balancer, or the radiator. What you need to remove will depend on the make and model of your vehicle.Refer to the vehicle manufacturers service manual for exact instructions.

4

Locate the engine oil pan at the very bottom of the engine. Refer to the vehicle manufacturers service manual for the exact location of the engine oil pan. Loosen the engine oil pan bolts and drop the oil pan down sufficiently to allow the front seal on the timing cover to clear the oil pan, if required by the engine manufacturer.

5

Remove the bolts that attach the timing cover to the engine. Remove the leaky timing cover. Use a gasket scraper to remove any parts of the old gasket that remain on the engine block.

6

Paint the new timing cover gasket with gasket sealant on the engine side of the gasket. Install the timing cover gasket on the engine, aligning the dowel-pin holes in the timing cover gasket with the dowel-pins in the engine block. Paint the timing cover side of the timing cover gasket with gasket sealant. Coat the surface where the oil pan seal and oil pan gasket meet as well as the surface where the oil pan seal and the front lip of the oil pan meet with RTV silicone sealant.

7

Position the new timing cover on the engine, aligning the dowel-pins in the engine with the dowel-pin holes on the timing cover. Bolt the new timing cover to the engine and torque all timing cover fasteners to specifications youll find in the users manual. Tighten the oil pan bolts. Torque the oil pan bolts to the engine manufacturers specifications with a torque wrench from the toolkit.

8

Reinstall all of the parts that were removed in order to facilitate the replacement of the leaky timing cover, in the order that they were removed.

9

Close the petcock. Fill the radiator with coolant. Connect the battery cables to the battery. Start the engine and let it reach operating temperature. Fill the radiator with coolant as needed as the thermostat opens. Inspect the front of the engine for both coolant and engine oil leaks.

The 2002 Impala was a mid-size four-door sedan manufactured by the Chevrolet division of General Motors. It is an eighth-generation Impala, which includes the 2000 to 2005 models. These models had anti-lock brakes as a standard feature, which provide better braking when the vehicle begins to lose traction. The brake control module, or BCM, is a microprocessor that reduces the braking force to a wheel that is spinning more slowly than the other wheels.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This ensures that an electrical discharge does not damage the BCM when you replace it.

2

Locate the BCM. It is the black box to the left of the steering column and under the instrument panel.

3

Push the pressure tabs on the BCM together to release the BCM, and detach the BCM from its bracket. Unplug the wiring harness from the BCM, and remove the BCM from the vehicle.

4

Push the connector for the wiring harness into its slot on the new BCM. The connector makes an audible click when it is securely connected to the BCM.

5

Install the BCM to its bracket on the vehicle. The pressure tabs on the BCM make an audible click when the BCM is securely fastened to its bracket.

6

Attach the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench.

The Ford F150 is a 1/2-ton pickup truck that has been in continuous production since 1975. The 1998 model belongs the tenth generation of this series, which includes F150s made from 1997 to 2004. A 4.6-liter V-8 engine is one of the options available for the Ford F150. Each side of the engine has a cylinder head that covers the four cylinders on that side. The cylinder head gasket lies between the engine block and the cylinder head.

Instructions

1

Discharge the air conditioning system with a refrigerant recovery machine, if your vehicle is equipped with AC. This step requires a mechanic certified by the Environmental Protection Agency.

2

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Disconnect the valve covers, and remove the intake manifold from the engine block. Detach the timing chains from the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket. Disconnect both exhaust manifolds from the engine block. Disconnect the air compressor to obtain access to the cylinder heads if your vehicle has air conditioning.

3

Disconnect the retaining bolts from the heater hose with a socket wrench. Squeeze the hose clamp and pull it down the hose to release the clamp. Detach the heater hose from the cylinder head. Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head and pull the cylinder head from the engine block. Discard the gasket for the cylinder head and remove any remaining gasket material from the engine block with a gasket scraper.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the key way on the crankshaft points straight up, and clean the cylinder head with a shop rag. Place the the new gasket for the cylinder head gasket over the dowel pins on the engine block, then mount the cylinder head on the engine block.

5

Fasten new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 27 and 31 foot-pounds on the first pass with a torque wrench. Tighten the bolts another 85 to 95 degrees with a socket wrench on the second pass. Tighten the bolts another 85 to 95 degrees on the third pass.

6

Connect the heater hose to the cylinder head, and attach the hose clamp. Fasten the retaining bolts for the heater hose with a socket wrench. Connect the exhaust manifolds to the engine block, and mount the timing chain to the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket. Connect the intake manifold, and replace the valve covers.

7

Attach the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks. Recharge the air conditioning system, if your vehicle is so equipped. This requires a mechanic certified by the EPA.

Whether the dent in your car is big or small, you can save yourself money in the long run by fixing it before it causes more serious body issues.Whether caused by a car accident or a runaway grocery store carriage, if you have a simple dent in your car, you may be able to repair the damage yourself.

Plunge It Out

If you have a large dent in your car door, hood or another area of your car thats not very deep, try plunging it out. Although the plunger doesnt always work, the vacuum the plunger creates can help get a car door or other curved surface with a dent back into the right shape.

Take a Hammer to It

Fix a small dent with the help of a hammer. Take a hammer and pound out the dent until the surface looks smooth. A rounded hammer head, such as a ball-pin hammer head, often works best, depending on the type of dent you have. When hammering out dents, always hammer the cars body on the side without the paint on it to protect the cars paint job and body.

Use a Hair Dryer

For a smaller, curved dent, use a hair dryer, your hand and a can of compressed area to remove the dent. Heat the spot where the dent is until its hot to the touch. You dont want to make the surface too hot because it could cause the metal to warp. Once the surface is hot to the touch, take your hand and push the dent up with your fingertips or the compressed air. Do not use your thumb to push up the dent as you work. The thumb is very strong and could cause a new dent on the surface when it pushes up.

Hire a Professional

If you cant get the dent out yourself, hire a professional. For a simple or complex job, try a paintless dent repair specialist. Paintless dent mechanics fix dents with specialized dent repair tools. Specialists typically cost a lot less than having a mechanic or body shop fix your car, and the job can often be completed quickly, in less than a day.