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A blown head gasket in a Mitsubishi 3000GT can impact the engines performance, as well as the vehicles fuel efficiency. When there is a hole in the gasket or it is overheated, the coolant can mix with the engine oil and damage the block. When a head gasket leak develops, it makes a tapping noise. Replacing the gasket takes between 4 to 6 hours of complete.

Instructions

1

Drain the coolant and oil from the engine. Remove the intake manifold. Unscrew the exhaust manifold.

2

Remove the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft using the MD998754 torque wrench. Remove the timing belt rear cover. Remove the timing belt. Unscrew the power-steering pump-bracket connection and generator-brace connection.

3

Disconnect the vacuum-pipe assembly. Remove the rocker-arm cover. Using the MD998051 torque wrench, unscrew the cylinder-head bolts. Take out the cylinder head. Remove the old cylinder head from the engine block.

4

Lay the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block with the identification mark at the front top. Follow the operations above to reassemble the removed parts.

A head gasket leak is the failure of the head gasket, a seal between the engine block, which houses the engines cylinders and pistons, and the cylinder head, which contains the valves that admit air and fuel into the cylinders.

Causes

Engine overheating is one of the most common causes of a head gasket leak; overheating makes the metal of the engine block expand and put so much pressure on the gasket that it no longer seals properly once the metal cools and contracts. Another common cause of a head gasket leak is engine misfiring. If combustion occurs too early or late, it can stress the head gasket.

Effects

If the head gasket starts to leak, the engine may blow blue smoke when oil reaches the combustion chamber or steam may come from the exhaust pipe if the chamber is contaminated with coolant. Fluid contamination, as well as increased risk of further engine overheating, can cause serious engine damage.

Repair

Replacing a head gasket is labor intensive because it is under the cylinder head, which is attached to many engine components, which may include the air intake, exhaust manifold and transmission housing.

The Dodge Shadow was a compact car that Chrysler produced from 1987 to 1994. It had a variety of engine options, including a four-cylinder 2.5-liter Premier engine. This engine uses a single cylinder head, and you must replace the gasket each time you remove the cylinder head. The procedure for changing the cylinder head gasket is generally the same for all versions of the Dodge Shadow with a 2.5-liter Premier engine.

Instructions

1

Open the fuel filler cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Disconnect the wiring harness for the fuel injectors from the throttle body. Attach a jumper wire from the first terminal of the harness to a ground point on the engine.

2

Attach one end of another jumper wire to the second terminal of the harness. Touch the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery positive post for five seconds to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the jumper wires, and disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

3

Remove the radiator cap, and start the engine. Turn the heater on, and allow the engine to idle until the upper radiator hose gets hot. Stop the engine, and place a container under the radiator drain cock on the bottom of the radiator. Open the drain cock with a socket wrench, and drain the coolant into the container. Fasten the drain cock.

4

Detach the accessory drive belt from its pulleys. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the air compressor with a socket wrench, and push the compressor aside to obtain access to the cylinder heads. Secure the compressor in place with cord.

5

Disconnect the upper radiator hose and heater hoses from the engine. Remove the cover for the rocker arms, and disconnect the mounting bolts for the rocker arm with a socket wrench. Pull the rocker arms and push rods from the engine block. Disconnect the intake manifold and exhaust manifold from the engine block.

6

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Lift the cylinder head from the engine block, and remove the cylinder head gasket. Remove any traces of the old gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

7

Cut the heads off two of the cylinder head mounting bolts, and cut slots in one end of each bolt to serve as alignment dowels. Install the alignment dowels into the number 8 and number 10 mounting bolt holes. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head onto the alignment dowels with the numbers on the gasket facing up.

8

Place the cylinder head on the engine block and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the head bolts to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass, then tighten them to 45 foot-pounds on the second pass. Tighten bolts 1 through 6 to 110 foot-pounds, tighten bolt 7 to 100 foot-pounds and tighten bolts 8 through 10 to 110 foot-pounds.

9

Install the rocker arms and push rods to their original position on the engine block. Install a new gasket for the rocker arm cover, and replace the cover. Attach the hoses to the engine, and fasten the mounting bolts for the air compressor. Tighten the mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Mount the accessory drive belt to its pulleys, and adjust the tension on the belt. Attach the cable for the negative terminal with a socket wrench, and fill the radiator with coolant. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

The BMW E28 is one of the companys 5-Series line of cars. It was manufactured between 1981 and 1988, and came standard with a 24 valve cylinder head engine known as the S38. Like all vehicles, the E28 requires regular maintenance. If you find that one or more of your cylinder heads are beginning to wear out, it is advisable to replace them with new ones. If you dont like spending hundreds of dollars on a mechanics labor costs, it is possible to change the head yourself.

Instructions

1

Unscrew the exhaust pipes and remove them from the exhaust manifold.

2

Unscrew the coolant plug and drain the fluid into your oil pan.

3

Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables.

4

Unscrew the vacuum hose and remove it from the air cleaner along with the sensor.

5

Disconnect the diagnosis and radiator hoses and remove the fuel lines.

6

Pull off the plugs on the fuel connectors and disconnect the ignition coil.

7

Disconnect the vent hose.

8

Remove the nuts from the cylinder head cover with your wrench and set them aside. Remove the cylinder head cover.

9

Remove the 14 exposed bolts of the cylinder head, moving from the middle of the head outward.

10

Remove and replace the cylinder head.

11

Replace the cylinder head bolts, cylinder head cover, vent hose, ignition coil, fuel lines, diagnosis and radiator hoses, air cleaner sensor, vacuum hoses, throttle and cruise control cables, coolant plug, and exhaust pipes in the reverse order that you removed them. Refill your coolant reservoir with the fluid in your oil pan to complete the process.

Replacing the headlight on a 2001 Dodge Dakota requires the same procedure used on 1997 to 2004 models. The Dakota uses a single bulb for the drivers side and passenger side with two elements---one for low beam and one for high beam. If one of the elements in a single bulb burn out, the bulb still needs to be replaced. While getting to the drivers side bulb does not require the removal of the headlight assembly, the passenger side does. The air box assembly also can be removed in order to access the headlight.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Dodge Dakota after making sure the interior headlight switch is in the off position.

2

Approach the headlight assembly that contains the faulty headlight.

3

Remove the rubber gasket seal from the inside edge of the headlight assembly by unsnapping its retainers.

4

Locate the retaining screw at the lower junction of the corner marker lens and headlight assembly and remove it with the T-10 Torx head screwdriver.

5

Use the screwdriver or pry tool to gently unseat the guide pin holding the corner marker lens and running-lights lens assembly from the truck. The guide pin is located at the top behind the corner marker lens. Disconnect the driving lights and corner marker lights from the assembly by turning them a quarter turn counterclockwise and pull them out of the assembly.

6

Remove the three headlight-assembly retaining screws with the ratchet, extension and 10-mm socket. One is located on the upper inner corner; the next is located at the lower inner corner, and the last one is located at the bottom center.

7

Pull the headlight assembly forward enough to reach behind it and disconnect the wire harness plug from the back of the headlight socket.

8

Turn the retaining ring of the headlight a quarter turn counterclockwise to align the retaining tabs of the ring to the release grooves of the assembly and remove the headlight from the assembly and ring.

9

Install the replacement 9007 combination headlight into the ring and then into the headlight assembly. Be careful not to touch the glass bulb of the replacement headlight. Contact with the bulb with skin will create a weakened "hot spot" on the bulb and cause it to expire prematurely.

10

Reconnect the wire harness plug to the headlight socket and reverse the headlight assembly, corner marker or running-light assembly and rubber gasket sealer procedures to restore and finish the job.

A head gasket creates the seal between the engine block and head. A cylinder head gasket leak test is a method of determining if the head gasket has failed without removing the head and visually inspecting the gasket.

Method

A cylinder leakage tester and air compressor are required to perform a cylinder leak test. A threaded insert is attached to the spark plug hole and an air gauge, then air is pumped via the compressor into the cylinde. A cylinder leak is determined by monitoring the gauge for pressure loss.

Locating the Leak

There may be various causes for a cylinder pressure leak. During the test, listen and feel for the escaping air to determine the source. Air gurgling through the radiator is the typical sign of head gasket failure. However, a cracked head may also cause air leaks into the radiator.

Alternatives

In addition to the cylinder leak test, there are other methods of testing for a defective head gasket. The cooling system can be pressure checked using a cooling system pressure tester. A block checker is another device that can test the head gasket. The block checker reacts to exhaust gases in the cooling system which indicates a leak.

The Ford Ranger is a compact pickup truck that has been in production since 1983, with the first generation of this series including the 1983 through 1988 models. The most common engines on the 1984 Ford Ranger are four-cylinder engines with a displacement of either 2.0 liters and 2.3 liters. These engines have a single cylinder head for all four cylinders, which sits on top of the engine block. The cylinder head gasket in the 1984 Ranger typically requires replacement when you remove the cylinder head.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting while replacing the cylinder head gasket. Place a container under the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator, and remove the drain cock with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator into the container, and replace the drain cock.

2

Disconnect the air cleaner from the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and remove the valve cover. Detach the drive belt for the air compressor if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the mounting bolts for the air compressor, and remove the air compressor mounting bracket from the cylinder head. Push the air compressor out of the way to access the cylinder head.

3

Remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Record the position of the attaching screws on the cover for the cam shaft drive belt, so you can install the screws in the correct position later. Remove the cover for the cam shaft drive belt.

4

Turn the tensioner for the drive belt counterclockwise with a socket wrench to relieve the tension on the drive belt. Detach the drive belt from its pulleys. Disconnect the water outlet and its hose from the cylinder head.

5

Remove the water outlet elbow from the cylinder head with the hose still attached. Remove the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench, and lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block.

6

Remove the gasket from the cylinder block. Clean the remaining gasket material and other debris from the cylinder head and cylinder block with a gasket scraper.

7

Place the new gasket onto the cylinder block, and mount the cylinder head to the cylinder block. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head to between 50 and 52 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 80 and 90 foot-pounds on the second pass.

8

Mount the camshaft drive belt to its pulleys. Replace the cover for the camshaft drive and install the attaching bolts for the cover, using your notes from step three as a guide. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 6 and 13 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

9

Install a new gasket for the water outlet and connect the outlet to the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 12 and 15 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the exhaust manifold and intake manifold with a socket wrench. Fasten the mounting bracket for the air compressor to the cylinder head, if your vehicle is so equipped.

10

Fill the vehicle with coolant, and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

International Harvester manufactured the 7.3-liter diesel engines that appear in Ford trucks from 1988 to 1992. This engine is most common in Ford trucks with a rated carrying capacity of at least 1/2 ton. The 7.3-liter Ford diesel engine uses a single cylinder head for all eight cylinders in the engine. The cylinder head is on top of the engine block and is part of the combustion chamber. The procedure for removing the cylinder head from a 7.3-liter engine is the same for all Ford trucks.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. This prevents anyone from starting the engine while removing the cylinder head.

2

Put a drain pan under the radiator. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the coolant in the radiator to drain into the pan. Store the coolant for later use.

3

Detach the shrouds for the radiator fan with a socket wrench. Disconnect the fan and clutch for the radiator as an assembly by using tools T83T-6312-A and T83T-6312-B. The mounting nut for the radiator fan and clutch has a left-hand thread, so you must turn it clockwise to remove the nut.

4

Label the electrical wiring on the alternator so you can connect it correctly later and detach the wiring from the alternator. Disconnect the bolts for the alternator and vacuum pump with a socket wrench. Remove these components from the engine block.

5

Disconnect the coolant hose from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel injection pump from the engine block. Disconnect the intake manifold and valley cover from the engine block.

6

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds with a socket wrench. Disconnect the clamp and mounting bolt for the oil dipstick tube. Detach the oil dipstick tube from the cylinder head and lower the vehicle.

7

Disconnect the valve covers with a socket wrench and remove the rocker arms from the engine block. Record the position of each push rod, so you can re-install them correctly later. Remove the push rods from the engine block.

8

Remove the fuel injector nozzles and glow plugs from the engine block with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Install lifting eyes on each end of the cylinder block with tool T70P-6000.

9

Lift the cylinder head from the engine block with the lifting eyes. Use caution to prevent the pre-chambers of the cylinder head from falling onto the engine when you remove the cylinder head.

The types of engines found in different cars from the same company can be different due to design changes and power differences. In some cases, these variations result in parts with slightly different capabilities that are interchangeable between one engine and another. For instance, with some Honda engines, the heads in the engine carry different part numbers with slightly different functions that can fit into more than one type of engine, such as the D16Z6 and the D16Y8 engine heads.

Compression

One of the biggest differences between the D16Z6 and the D16Y8 is the compression that each head creates within the engine. The compression has a direct impact on the performance of the vehicle. The D16Z6 has a slightly lower compression ratio of 9.2 to 1 versus the compression ratio of 9.6 to 1 in the D16Y8 head. This means that the D16Y8 head provides slightly better performance than the D16Z6, though the difference is not significant.

Power

Because of the increased compression ratio of the D16Y8 over the D16Z6, a vehicle operating with the D16Y8 heads will achieve a higher horsepower rating than one running with the D16Z6 heads. Just as with the compression rate, though, the difference is not significant, making the two parts easily interchangeable. The D16Y8 achieves a horsepower rating of 127, while the D16Z6 achieves a horsepower rating of just 125, which doesnt make much difference to an untrained driver.

Torque

The amount of torque an engine provides directly relates to the acceleration speed of which the vehicle is capable. The amount of torque provided by the D16Z6 and the D16Y8 head within a Honda engine also varies slightly, providing a difference in performance for your vehicle. The D16Y8 provides the engine with 111 foot pounds of torque, while the D16Z6 provides only 106 foot pounds of torque. Thus an engine using the D16Y8 can accelerate a little faster than one that uses D16Z6 heads.

Redline Rate

The rate at which the engine hits the red line, or the maximum revolutions per minute, can vary depending on if you use the D16Y8 or D16Z6 heads. The D16Y8 head redlines the engine around 6,900 rpm, while the D16Z6 redlines around 7,200 rpm. This means that the D16Y8 will hit its maximum rpm more quickly and thus will rev more frequently than using the D16Z6 heads. The torque and the RPMs are directly related. The higher the torque, the lower the rpm.

The Ford F150 is a 1/2-ton pickup truck that has been in continuous production since 1975. The 1998 model belongs the tenth generation of this series, which includes F150s made from 1997 to 2004. A 4.6-liter V-8 engine is one of the options available for the Ford F150. Each side of the engine has a cylinder head that covers the four cylinders on that side. The cylinder head gasket lies between the engine block and the cylinder head.

Instructions

1

Discharge the air conditioning system with a refrigerant recovery machine, if your vehicle is equipped with AC. This step requires a mechanic certified by the Environmental Protection Agency.

2

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Disconnect the valve covers, and remove the intake manifold from the engine block. Detach the timing chains from the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket. Disconnect both exhaust manifolds from the engine block. Disconnect the air compressor to obtain access to the cylinder heads if your vehicle has air conditioning.

3

Disconnect the retaining bolts from the heater hose with a socket wrench. Squeeze the hose clamp and pull it down the hose to release the clamp. Detach the heater hose from the cylinder head. Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head and pull the cylinder head from the engine block. Discard the gasket for the cylinder head and remove any remaining gasket material from the engine block with a gasket scraper.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the key way on the crankshaft points straight up, and clean the cylinder head with a shop rag. Place the the new gasket for the cylinder head gasket over the dowel pins on the engine block, then mount the cylinder head on the engine block.

5

Fasten new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the mounting bolts to between 27 and 31 foot-pounds on the first pass with a torque wrench. Tighten the bolts another 85 to 95 degrees with a socket wrench on the second pass. Tighten the bolts another 85 to 95 degrees on the third pass.

6

Connect the heater hose to the cylinder head, and attach the hose clamp. Fasten the retaining bolts for the heater hose with a socket wrench. Connect the exhaust manifolds to the engine block, and mount the timing chain to the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket. Connect the intake manifold, and replace the valve covers.

7

Attach the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks. Recharge the air conditioning system, if your vehicle is so equipped. This requires a mechanic certified by the EPA.