Thursday, October 31, 2013

Brake Cylinder Honing Tools

Brake Cylinder Honing Tools

Wheel cylinders hold and control the brake fluid and control pressure in a rear (sometimes front) drum brake housing. They sit at the top of the backing plate between the brake shoes. Leaking wheel cylinders can result in a spongy brake pedal, and sometimes no brake pedal at all if the brake fluid drains out. All brake cylinders can be rebuilt, using replacement kits, a few tools and some acquired knowledge.

Variable Speed Drill

    One of the most versatile brake honing tools has been around for a long time, but the do-it-yourself vehicle owner may not have noticed its connection with brake repair. The electric hand-held drill plays an important role in honing out wheel cylinder bores. A drill motor with a 90-degree angle affords the best leverage and aim for getting into tight spots. The reversible option allows the drill to be pulled backward without chafing, or moved back and forth, which cross-hatches the cylinder bore, making for better surface smoothness. The variable speed feature allows the RPM to be increased or decreased on demand. The slow variable speed option also offers much safer material removal. Variable speed drills for brake cylinder honing perform best in 1/4- and 3/8-inch drive sizes.

Ball-type Abrasive Flex Hone

    The ball-type abrasive flex hone has aluminum oxide, abrasive sanding balls that extend from the shaft that fits neatly into the drill bit. These hones come in a variety of sizes that accommodate large- or small-bore wheel cylinders. The positioning of the sanding balls gives the flex hone a natural cross-hatch "rip" when inserted and extracted from the cylinder bore. The flex hone can finish the job in 20 seconds while using the forward thrust position and offer months of continuous use without being replaced. Shaft sizes allow for 1/4- and 3/8-inch drill motors.

Adjustable Metal Flex Stone Hone

    The unique design of the tri-rod metal flex hone makes for speedy and clean boring by using three metal extensions that have sanding pads on their ends. The stones come in kits which include a variety of stone sizes and grits. Fine, medium and coarse stones fit every application for rough cuts and final finishing. Cutting stones can be cleaned or replaced when needed. They can adapt to cylinder bores as small as 3/4 inch in diameter, all the way up to 2-1/2 inch.

Rotational Paper Sander

    Paper sanders fit through slots on drill bit shafts; and when coiled, they can be rotated inside the cylinder bore. Paper sanders allow for the flexibility of changing grits or replacing worn sandpaper. Hand dowels can be used manually by simply curling segments of sandpaper around the dowel. Thrusting them in and out of the cylinder bore, while turning, mirrors the cutting movements of drill-mounted flex hones and adjustable metal hones.

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1997 Chevy Lumina Problems

1997 Chevy Lumina Problems

Problems with the 1997 Chevy Lumina have led to safety recalls by General Motors and consumer complaints to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Issues range from engine trouble to difficulties with power steering.

Steering

    Power steering problems in the 1997 Chevy Lumina resulted in a safety recall in 2003. A manufacturing mistake in the lower pinion bearings may allow the ball bearings to fall out, which may lead the driver to have to exert extra force when trying to turn the wheel. In some cases, turning left may be nearly impossible.

Fuel System

    A manufacturing defect in certain aftermarket Delphi fuel pressure regulators used in select 1997 Chevrolet Lumina vehicles may cause a fuel leak that could lead to a fire. These filters were recalled in 2007.

Transmission

    Various 1997 Lumina transmission problems have been reported by consumers to the NHTSA and addressed in Technical Service Bulletins by the manufacturer. These include transmission oil leaks, slipping and erratic/intermittent shifting, and going out of drive and into neutral. Edmunds.com reports that occasional problems with this vehicles TCC (torque converter clutch) regulator valve may "feel like an engine miss while driving between 40 and 60 mph." As of 2010, no recalls have resulted from these problems.

Engine

    Engine problems in the 1997 Chevy Lumina, as addressed by Technical Service Bulletins, include problems with rough idling and intermittent misfires. Consumers have reported to the NHTSA problems with engine mounts falling out and coolant from the manifold leaking into the engine. No recalls have resulted from these issues, as of 2010.

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How to Fix the Belt on a 1996 Ford F 150

How to Fix the Belt on a 1996 Ford F-150

The Ford F-150 was introduced in 1975. The 1996 Ford F-150 was a 1/2 ton truck, available in both two-wheel and four-wheel drive models. The 1996 F-150 was equipped with a 4.9-liter electronic fuel injected V-6 engine in the base model. Optional engines in the 1996 F-150 included a 4.9-liter bi-fuel OHV V-6, a 5.0-liter V-8 and a 5.8-liter V-8. The drive belt on the 1996 F-150 controls the movement of several engine parts that are vital to the life of the engine, as well as the charging system and cooling system parts.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the hood on the F-150. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the radiator shroud mounting bolts from the top of the radiator, then pull the radiator shroud upward and out of the engine compartment. Look beneath the hood for the belt routing diagram. If no diagram exists, draw a box on a piece of paper representing the front of the engine; draw circles on the box to represent each pulley in its position on the engine; lastly, draw a thick line between the pulleys indicating the routing of the drive belt.

    2

    Depress the tensioner assembly with a 3/8-inch-drive ratchet, by placing the ratchet in the square hole provided in the tensioner body. The tensioner is the metal, teardrop-shaped part that has a pulley at the tip of the teardrop. Remove the drive belt from the tensioner pulley, then from the engine completely.

    3

    Install the new drive belt over the engine cooling fan. Route the belt over each engine pulley as it appears in the routing diagram under the hood, or on the diagram that you drew. Make the belt tensioner the last stop of your belt routing. Depress the belt tensioner with the ratchet, then install the belt over the tensioner pulley.

    4

    Check the vertical alignment of the drive belt to make sure it is centered in the grooves on each pulley. Depress the tensioner halfway and make adjustments to center the belt, if needed.

    5

    Install the radiator shroud into the engine compartment. Tighten the shroud bolts snug with a ratchet and socket. Install the negative battery cable, and tighten it snug.

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How to Replace a Front Sway Bar on a Jeep Wrangler

The sway bar or stabilizer bar on the front of the Jeep Wrangler is in place to keep the body from rolling on the suspension and improve the handling of the Jeep. You can replace the sway bay if necessary; replacement sway bars are available from Jeep and some auto parts stores. The sway bar on the front of your Jeep Wrangler runs over the top of the frame, making access to the mounting hardware much simpler than on other vehicles.

Instructions

    1

    Use a lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels, then raise the front of the Jeep off the ground with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the front axle of the Jeep to support it, then remove the front tires and set them aside.

    2

    Locate the nut on the top of the stabilizer bar end link near the front coil spring. Use a wrench to remove the nut from the top of the end link and set it aside. Repeat on the opposite side of the Jeep, then lift the sway bar off the end links.

    3

    Move to the front of the Jeep and use a socket and ratchet to remove the four retaining bolts that secure the plastic valance on the frame just behind the bumper. Remove the valance to expose the sway bar bushings and mounts on top of the frame.

    4

    Use a ratchet and socket to remove the four bolts that hold the sway bar mounts to the frame. Lift the U-shaped retainers off the sway bar and set them aside. Lift the sway bar off the frame and remove it from the truck. Slide the bushings off the old bar and save them.

    5

    Slide the bushings onto the new sway bar after applying a small amount of grease to the inside of the bushing. Position the bushing and bar on the frame and install the U-shaped brackets over the sway bar and bushings.

    6

    Use a socket and ratchet to tighten the four retaining bolts. Install the plastic valance, tightening the retaining bolts until they are snug. Be careful not to crack the plastic valance.

    7

    Slide the sway bar onto the top of the end links near the coil spring on both sides of the suspension and thread the retaining nuts onto the top of the link. Torque the bolts to 45 ft.-lbs. with a torque wrench.

    8

    Install the front wheels and thread the lug nuts onto the wheel studs. Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands, then remove the stands from under the Jeep. Lower the jack until the tires are on the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench.

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Wednesday, October 30, 2013

How to Update the 2001 Chevrolet Silverado Computer Software

The 2001 Chevrolet Silverados onboard computer uses Chevrolets latest version of OBD-II software as of the 2001 model year. As Chevrolet engineers discover new ways to program the Silverado for heightened fuel efficiency and lowered emissions, Chevrolet makes software updates available to GM dealership service personnel. While it is possible to purchase a scan tool or laptop capable of performing the update, you can only download the update from General Motors servers with an operating license that only dealership service departments are allowed to purchase.

Instructions

    1

    Climb into the 2001 Chevrolet Silverado with the scan tool equipped with the latest software update download.

    2

    Plug the scan tool or laptops datalink cable into the diagnostic reader port under the drivers side of the Silverados dashboard. The port looks like a printer cable port and is a perfect mate to the end of the datalink cable. Turn the ignition to the run position with the ignition key.

    3

    Follow your specific scan tool or laptops directions for updating the Silverados OBD-II software. Perform the update per those directions.

    4

    Disconnect the datalink cable by hand. Turn the Silverados ignition off and remove the ignition key.

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2008 Impala Alignment Specs

The current generation of the Chevy Impala was introduced in 2006. It is a full-sized family sedan available in several trims. A 50th Anniversary edition was available for the 2008 model year, and there were four different types of suspension used on the Impala in 2008. Check your owners manual to determine which type of suspension your car has, and always check your owners manual or consult a certified mechanic before attempting to make any auto repairs.

Alignment Specs for the Soft Ride Suspension System

    For the front end, the caster angle can range from +2.40 degrees to +3.40 degrees, with the ideal setting being +2.90 degrees. The camber angle can range from -1.30 degrees to -.30 degrees, with the ideal setting being -.80 degrees. The toe-in can range from -.10 degrees to +.30 degrees. The steering-wheel angle can range from -3.50 degrees to +3.50 degrees, but ideally it should be evened out at zero degrees.

    For the rear end, the camber angle can range from -1.15 degrees to -.15 degrees, with the ideal being -.65 degrees. The total toe can range from -.10 degrees to +.30 degrees, with the ideal setting being +.10 degrees. The thrust angle can range from -.15 degrees to +.15 degrees. The caster angle is not adjustable on the rear end.

Alignment Specs for the Sport Suspension System

    For the front end, the caster angle can range from +2.65 degrees to +3.65 degrees, with the ideal setting being +3.15. The camber angle can range from -1.20 degrees to -.20 degrees, with the ideal setting being -.70 degrees. The toe-in can range from -.10 to +.30 degrees. The steering-wheel angle can range from -3.50 degrees to +3.50 degrees, but ideally it should be evened out at zero degrees.

    For the rear end, the camber angle can range from -1.40 degrees to -.40 degrees, with the ideal setting being -.90. The total toe can range from -.10 degrees to +.30 degrees, with the ideal setting being +.10 degrees. The thrust angle can range from -.15 degrees to +.15 degrees. The caster angle is not adjustable on the rear end.

Alignment Specs for the SEO Vehicle Police Car and the SEO Vehicle Police Car LC

    For the front end of cars with the SEO Vehicle Police Car suspension system, the caster angle can range from +2.70 degrees to +3.70 degrees, with the ideal setting being +3.20 degrees. The camber angle can range from -1.00 degrees to zero degrees, with the ideal setting being -.50 degrees. The toe-in can range from -.10 degrees to +.30 degrees. The steering angle can range from -3.50 degrees to +3.50 degrees, but ideally it should be evened out at zero degrees.

    For the front end of cars with the SEO Vehicle Police Car LC suspension system, the caster angle can range from +2.55 degrees to +3.55 degrees, with the ideal setting being +3.05. The camber angle can range from -1.15 degrees to -.15 degrees, with the ideal setting being -.65 degrees. The toe-in can range from -10 degrees to +.30 degrees. The steering angle can range from -3.50 degrees to +3.50 degrees, but ideally it should be evened out at zero degrees.

    The rear-end alignment specs are the same for the SEO Vehicle Police Car and the SEO Vehicle Police Car LC. The camber angle can range from -1.20 degrees to -.20 degrees, with the ideal setting being -.70 degrees. The total toe can range from -.10 degrees to +.30 degrees, with the ideal setting being +.10 degrees. The thrust angle can range from -.15 degrees to +.15 degrees. The caster angle is not adjustable on the rear end.

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Recommended Air Compressor Oil

Recommended Air Compressor Oil

Like most machines with motors, lubrication is needed to ensure a long product life and guarantee day-to-day functionality. With a diverse array of oils on the market, it can be easy to get confused about which type of oil you need for your air compressor.

Manufacturer Recommended Oil

    The first place to check when trying to find out which oil is best for your air compressor is with the manufacturers recommendation. New compressors come with user manuals. If you have a used air compressor or your user manual does not recommend a specific type of oil, contact the manufacturer with your question.

Synthetic Compressor Oil

    These days, most oil manufacturers have synthetic options available for air compressors. In fact, synthetics are usually recommended for compressors that are run for extended periods of time. Most synthetic oil manufacturers have a list of air compressor models their different synthetics work with best.

Regular Compressor Oil

    If you dont feel like you need a synthetic oil for your air compressor, standard 20 weight and 30 weight oils should work just fine. Just make sure that whichever air compressor oil you choose, however, is nondetergent and nonflammable. The 20 and 30 weight options should be able to maintain viscosity in most air compressor applications. If you run at very high temperatures, however, you may want a 40 or 50 weight option.

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Tuesday, October 29, 2013

How to Install Adjustable Coilover Springs

How to Install Adjustable Coilover Springs

Coilover springs really are small coil springs mounted over shock absorbers. Once the coilover kit is in place, the coilover springs become part of the shock and share the same mounting points. Together they take up very little space and the springs are easy to change and adjust. Coilovers have been used in auto racing for many years. The only downfall to installing coilover springs is that the mounts must be strong enough to withstand the abuse of a racetrack or a rough road. On race cars, the chassis builder uses strong materials to construct a strong mount.

Instructions

    1

    Determine the spring rate needed for the coilover spring. The farther out the coilover mounts, the lower the spring rate needed.

    2

    Install the threaded coilover sleeve onto the shock housing. The threaded sleeve normally fits over the shock and is held in place by a large snap ring that fits in a groove on the shock. Some coilover shock components have the threaded sleeve made into the shock absorber housing.

    3

    Thread a coilover spring collar onto the threaded shock sleeve. This will hold the coilover spring and is used to adjust ride height. Install the coilover spring onto the sleeve and insert a coilover spring cap on the rod end of the shock. Turn the coilover spring collar to adjust the spring rate on the shock component.

    4

    Block the wheels on the vehicle. Place a jack under the car and raise it to take the weight off the wheel. If an old shock is on the car, remove it to make room for a coilover spring and shock component.

    5

    Install the coilover component by bolting the shocks rod end to the bottom shock mount and inserting a bolt. Install the tube end of the shock to the top shock mount and insert a bolt. Tighten the bolts. The shock mounts upside down on a race car to reduce the unsprung weight, which is a big deal when racing. If the coilover spring is mounted on a regular car, mount it upside down -- this will keep dirt and debris off the shock rod and keep it from pitting.

    6

    Thread the coilover collar up the threaded shock sleeve to tighten the spring and raise the cars ride height. The tighter the spring is, the more weight it will hold and the higher the ride height of the car will be.

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Problems With the Horn on a PT Cruiser

The PT Cruiser is a model produced by Chrysler Corporation. It is a small multi-purpose vehicle and has been available since the year 2000. While popular, it has its share of mechanical problems.

Ever Honking Horn

    One issue with the horn involves the electronic key chain that opens and locks the door. Sometimes, after locking the car from the outside, the horn starts up and doesnt stop. This is as opposed to the gentle beep that tells you your car is safely locked. This problem is due to the key chain not working properly.

Hard to Find Horn Button

    Another issue involves the horn not working or only working when pressed on the steering wheel. Troubleshooters also often find that the horn will only work if it is hit with a lot of force in certain areas. This is cited as one of the more common problems with the 2006 model.

Dead Horn

    Some cases report the horn just giving out completely, even when the alarm sounds. This is because of the electrical connector becoming loose or detached. The relevant switch can be found inside the steering wheel.

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How to Install Mechanical Fuel Pumps

The fuel system on older vehicles is a simple low-pressure system. At the heart of that system is the mechanical fuel pump. The mechanical fuel pump is a spring-loaded diaphragm fuel pump. It mounts to the engine block and pumps when an eccentric lobe on the cam moves the pump lever up and the pump spring forces it back down. Most mechanical fuel pumps attach to the engine block with two bolts, one on each side of the pump lever. These pumps connect to the fuel tank with one line and another line goes to the carburetor.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen and remove the two fuel lines from the mechanical fuel pump, using a 9/16-inch wrench. Use a screwdriver to remove the hose clamps if the fuel line is clamped on. The fuel line from the tank must be temporarily plugged to prevent leaks.

    2

    Slide a small piece of fuel line over the line coming from the fuel tank and insert a 3/-8-inch bolt into the open end of the fuel line to prevent any leaking.

    3

    Loosen and remove the two bolts that hold the fuel pump to the engine block and remove the pump.

    4

    Scrape the old gasket from the mounting plate and use gasket cement to glue on a new one. Let the gasket cement set before attempting to replace the pump.

    5

    Slide the chrome push rod back up toward the camshaft on Chevy engines. (For non-Chevy engines, go to Step 6.) The rod is located inside the hole where the fuel pump bolts on. Insert the pump lever of the new fuel pump into the mounting hole before the push rod slides back down and blocks this task. Thread both mounting bolts into the threaded mounting holes before tightening them.

    6

    Insert the pump arm into the fuel pump mounting hole on non-Chevy engines. Line up and thread both mounting bolts into the threaded mount holes, before tightening them.

    7

    Reattach both fuel lines. The fuel lines should align with their respective line fittings. Be sure to tighten the lines to avoid any leaks.

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How to Install a Dodge Ram Track Bar

How to Install a Dodge Ram Track Bar

A common problem in the Dodge Ram is deterioration and failure of the bushings at each end of the track bar. The track bar keeps the front axle from moving side to side. It is held onto the truck in two locations. One end mounts to the axle, and the other end mounts to the frame. Replacement track bars can be purchased at your local auto parts store. A mechanic can install the track bar for you, but you can do it yourself and save on the labor.

Instructions

    1

    Spray each bolt that secures the track bar to the vehicle with penetrating fluid. Allow the fluid to seep into the track bar for 15 minutes.

    2

    Remove the cotter pins on the bolts with a pair of pliers.

    3

    Unscrew the bolts that secure the track bar in place with a ratchet and socket.

    4

    Detach the track bar from the brackets on the vehicle.

    5

    Install the new track bar into its brackets and install the bolts into the mounting holes.

    6

    Tighten the nuts with the ratchet and socket.

    7

    Place the end of a grease gun onto the fitting and fill the bushing with grease.

    8

    Slide the cotter pins that came with the new track bar through the holes in the mounting bolts. Bend the end of the cotter pin with pliers to prevent the nuts from vibrating loose.

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Monday, October 28, 2013

Cummins 3 9 Turbo Diesel Engine Specifications

Cummins 3.9 Turbo Diesel Engine Specifications

The Cummins 3.9-liter turbo diesel engine is part of the B-series of engines created by Cummins. Its trade name is the Cummins 4BT, a reference to its four cylinders, position as a B-series engine and the addition of a turbocharger. It is manufactured for use in commercial step vans, marine applications and agriculture, among other applications.

Type and Configuration

    The 3.9-liter Cummins turbo diesel is an inline four-cylinder engine with four cycles. It features turbocharged aspiration that is not intercooled. The bore is 4.02 inches and the stroke is 4.72 inches. The first cylinder to fire is number one, followed by three, four and two.

Dimensions

    The Cummins 4BT is 37.7 inches high, 30.6 inches long and 24.6 inches wide. It weighs between 745 and 782 pounds and has a gross vehicle weight rating of 16,000 pounds. It consumes 7.6 gallons of diesel per hour and the fuel pump operates at between 0.5 psi and 10 psi.

Cooling and Lubrication

    The cooling system on the Cummins 3.9-liter engine can hold 8.8 quarts when allowing space for the coolant to expand. The engine thermostat allows temperatures between 181 and 203 degrees Fahrenheit. The oil pressure ranges from 10 psi while idling to 30 to 65 psi at normal operation. The engine can carry up to 10.4 quarts of oil and it can reach a maximum temperature of 250 degrees Fahrenheit.

Intake and Exhaust

    The air intake system on the 4BT can pull in 270 cubic feet per minute. The exhaust gas flow is 700 cubic feet per minute at 900 degrees Fahrenheit.

Performance

    The 3.9-liter turbocharged engine can produce 150 horsepower at 2,800 rpm and 265 foot-pounds of torque at 1,600 rpm. Its compression ratio is 17.5-to-1. The pistons operate at 2,205 feet per minute and the brake mean effective pressure is 177 psi.

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How to Repair a Headlight

How to Repair a Headlight

As with any machine that is used day to day, cars are vulnerable to normal wear and tear. Occasionally the headlights on a motor vehicle will need to be repaired or replaced. It is important to exercise caution whenever touching a cars electrical equipment. Upgrading the headlight system from an older system is also advisable, as brighter headlights can offer higher visibility. Making sure the headlights work properly is important for the vehicles safety.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the plastic cover of the headlight by opening the hood to gain access to its screws. Unscrew the screws at the top and side of the cover and set screws aside. Unscrew the bulb of the headlight and discard it.

    2

    Disconnect the wires leading to the headlight by using the socket wrench to loosen the socket bolts on the wires ends. Gently remove the wires and set them in a place away from the headlight. Use the socket wrench once more to loosen the sockets attaching the headlight to the front of the engine block.

    3

    Lift out the headlight and place it to the side. Take the replacement headlight and gently place it where the old headlight resided in the front of the engine block. Tighten the bolts of the headlight to the car by using the socket wrench.

    4

    Reconnect the wires with the socket wrench, paying close attention to the tightness of the bolt (loose bolts can trap dirt and water). Screw in the new headlight bulb, but be careful not to use bare hands; instead, use shop gloves or a clean towel.

    5

    Place the new clear casing over top of the headlight and re-screw the casing tightly in place. Test headlights to ensure proper installation.

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How to Install the Fuel Injectors for a Gen III Engine

The LS series of engines are manufactured by General Motors for use in its rear-wheel drive vehicles. The third generation of these engines, also known as Gen III engines, were in production from 1997 through 2007. They appear in many different vehicles from General Motors, such as the Chevrolet Camaro produced from 1998 through 2002. The Gen III engine uses electronic fuel injectors to deliver fuel to the engine under high pressure.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so you dont accidentally start the engine. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

    2

    Wrap a shop rag around the pressure valve on the fuel rail and attach a fuel pressure gauge to the valve. Put the bleed hose of the fuel pressure gauge into a gasoline container and open the valve to relieve the pressure in the fuel system.

    3

    Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. Remove the accelerator cable and its bracket from the engine compartment with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors and fuel rail.

    4

    Remove the fuel rail and fuel injectors from the intake manifold as an assembly with a socket wrench. Spread the retainer clips for the fuel injectors apart and remove the fuel injectors from the fuel rail. Discard the retainer clips and O-rings on the fuel injectors.

    5

    Coat the O-rings for the fuel injectors with engine oil and mount them to the fuel injectors. Install the new fuel injectors onto the fuel rail with the electrical terminals on the injectors facing outward. Attach new retaining clips to the fuel injectors.

    6

    Connect the fuel rail assembly to the intake manifold and tighten its mounting bolts to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connectors for the fuel rail and fuel injectors. Install the accelerator cable and its bracket with the socket wrench. Attach the fuel lines to the fuel rail and tighten the fittings.

    7

    Reattach the cable to the negative battery terminal with the socket wrench and fasten the filler cap onto the fuel tank. Turn the ignition on for two seconds to pressurize the fuel system then turn it off for 10 seconds. Turn the ignition back on and check for any fuel leaks.

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Sunday, October 27, 2013

How to Measure for Leaf Springs

Obtaining correct leaf spring measurements is vital to keep a suspension system functioning safely and correctly. Three measurements determine if a new leaf spring will mount on a vehicle without disrupting its axle location or cause problems with its ride. The straightforward approach of measuring the straight line distance between the mounting points of the spring seem like the correct approach, but more factors come into play that determine where to take the measurements.

Instructions

    1

    Lay a steel rule flat on top of the longest spring. Align the end of the steel rule with the center of the left side leaf spring mounting bracket. Push the steel rule towards the spring to bend it to the curvature of the spring. Read the measurement from the center of the mount to the center bolt holding the leaf spring pack together.

    2

    Switch the steel rule to the right side of the leaf spring. Repeat the ruler alignment and measuring procedure to determine the distance from the right side to the center mounting bolt.

    3

    Add the two measurements together to determine the overall length of the leaf spring.

    4

    Tie a string line to the left leaf spring mounting point. Pull the string line across the leaf spring. Tie the string line to the right spring mounting point. Adjust the string until both tied ends of line align with the center of the mounting points.

    5

    Push the zero end of the rule against the leaf spring at the center bolt. Read the point the string line intersects the rule to measure the spring arch.

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Explorer Third Row Power Seat Problems

Explorer Third Row Power Seat Problems

The Explorer, a mid-size sports utility vehicle manufactured by the Ford Motor Company, has experienced a variety of issues related to its third-row seating. These problems vary from minor inconveniences to major issues that may pose safety concerns and necessitate the replacement of the entire seat.

Seat Wont Elevate

    Most Ford Explorers are equipped with power seating. Power seating allows the user to adjust the seat to meet their individual preferences through the push of a button, permitting the user to raise, lower or move their seat forward or backward. When the seat will not elevate, a common culprit is a bad motor gear. Over time, the motor that is responsible for allowing the seat raise or move forward or backward may become worn, causing failure of the motor to operate properly. When this occurs, it is oftentimes necessary for the motor to be replaced in order for the seat to operate properly.

Heated Seats

    The Ford Explorer also offered heated seats on both driver and passenger seats. While heated seats can be an added luxury, heated seats that fail to work properly can sometimes present a safety hazard. In order to operate the heat feature on the Ford Explorer, the user must push the heat activation button located on the instrument panel on the side of the seat. To turn the heat option off, the button should be pressed again. If the heat fails to shut off, this may indicate a wiring issue that is preventing the heat option from deactivating. Heated seats that fail to shut off on command can lead to serious burns and may need to be replaced in order to prevent harm.

Seats Wont Fold

    Another common problem with Ford Explorer third row seating is seats that will not fold down into the floor in order to create a cargo area. When this occurs, a common culprit is head rests that are not folded down enough to allow the seat to collapse. Pulling the black tab forward under both headrests should allow the headrest to fold down completely. From there, try to fold the seats down as usual. If the seats fail to fold after ensuring that your headrests are fully folded, this may indicate a problem with the release, which will need to be inspected by a certified mechanic to determine whether or not the seat is repairable or will need to be replaced.

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Common Car AC Problems

Losing the comfort of your vehicles air conditioner can be unpleasant. The AC compressor has safeguards and shut-offs that offer protection from low levels of lubricant and other potentially damaging conditions..

Refrigerant Problems

    A lack of refrigerant in a vehicle is the most common problem with automobile air-conditioning systems. Leaks are often the cause for these low levels. Before it can be recharged, the system must first be checked for leaks which could occur due to a damaged hose or compressor.

Air and Moisture Problems

    Air and moisture entering a vehicles AC system might cause ice to accumulate and cause blockage problems. A vacuum pump should be used to remove this moisture and air. A one-percent rise in the amount of air in the system will cause an ACs cooling abilities to decline.

Noise Problems

    Noise problems coming from your compressor indicate that replacement might be imminent. Using the wrong type of lubricant on the compressor. might also cause noise problems.

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How to Replace a Fuel Pump on a 1970 Pontiac 350

A 1970 Pontiac 350 is a common term for a 1970 Pontiac Firebird with a 350-cubic inch engine. This car used a mechanical fuel pump with a single action diaphragm to deliver fuel to the engine. A push rod between the camshaft and the fuel pump rocker arm operates the fuel pump. The fuel pump in a 1970 Pontiac Firebird is not adjustable or repairable, so you must replace it when it fails.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the fuel intake line and the fuel outlet line from the fuel pump on the lower right side of the engine. Close the open end of the fuel intake line with a clamp.

    2

    Remove the bolt from the right front mounting boss with a socket wrench. Fill this hole with a longer 3 / 8 inch bolt to hold the push rod for the rocker arm in place.

    3

    Disconnect the mounting bolts and washers for the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel pump and gasket from the engine.

    4

    Coat the mating surfaces of the new fuel pump and the engine with sealer. Install the new fuel pump and gasket to the engine, and attach the mounting bolts and washers for the fuel pump.

    5

    Remove the temporary bolt in the right front mounting boss, and connect the permanent bolt with a socket wrench. Remove the clamp from the fuel intake line, and connect the fuel lines to the fuel pump. Check the fuel system for leaks.

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Saturday, October 26, 2013

What Metals Are Engine Pistons Made From

What Metals Are Engine Pistons Made From?

All modern engine pistons are made from an aluminum alloy. The alloy behaves somewhat differently under use according to how the piston is made, so an understanding of the manufacturing process is important. Until the 1970s, the subject of cast versus forged pistons frequently was a debated topic; since then, advances in technology have made the debate all but redundant to the everyday driver.

Piston Material Evolution

    In the original internal combustion engines, steel was used to make pistons. Aluminum alloy took over very early on. The earliest aluminum pistons were subject to considerable expansion and contraction because of operational heat, and the design was evolved so that steel rings -- called struts -- were molded into the walls to reduce the problem. This type of piston was common until the 1960s, when the introduction of silicon into the alloy made strutting redundant. Most modern pistons are made with around 25-percent silicone.

    The early aluminum-silicone alloy was renowned for its brittleness; accidentally dropping one from bench height usually resulted in a crack that was at best expensive and at worst impossible to repair. The addition of nickel to the alloy reduces the brittleness, but increases the weight-to-mass relationship.

Piston Design

    Pistons have nine parts and sections. The piston top properly is called the crown; below this are the ring grooves into which are fitted the piston rings. The raised areas between the ring grooves are called the lands. Below the ring assembly is the piston pin hole. The piston pin -- called the "wrist pin" in industry speak -- passes through this hole and passes through the connecting rod. Around the piston pin are pin bosses that support its ends. The bottom of the piston is called the skirt.

Cast Pistons

    The cast piston is molded from a molten aluminum alloy, which is drawn by vacuum into steel dies; only minimal machining is necessary to finish the resulting piston. The process is called gravity die casting. The shape and wall thickness is fully controlled, but the process is expensive.

Forged Pistons

    The forged piston is made first by placing an ingot of warmed aluminum alloy into a female mold; after this, a male ram is forced into the mold to stamp the metal into a piston blank. The blank then undergoes many machining operations; a single forging set-up typically produces a blank that can be machined into numerous piston sizes to suit a wide variety of vehicles.

Comparisons

    Casting was the original method of piston manufacture; forging came along later as an alternative. The forging process compresses the alloys molecules at the crown, making the metal more dense and, therefore, better able to withstand the extremes of temperature. This is a substantial benefit because the crown is exposed to more heat than any other part of the engine except the spark plug.

Practical Applications

    Cast pistons are made in intricately shaped dies that determine their shapes both inside and out; this allows for a uniform and constant wall thickness that keeps the mass of the piston to a minimum. The process of setting up the dies is costly, so cast pistons typically are only made for multiple applications and to meet massive production requirements. Forged pistons have a comparatively crude internal shape after being stamped, determined only by the ram being driven into the ingot, then being retracted. This normally means considerable turning and hand-finishing is required. Far tighter tolerances are achieved through this method. For these reasons, performance pistons are almost always forged, while OEM-spec pistons are cast.

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Honda Motorcycle Tools

Honda Motorcycle Tools

A small, portable tool kit is an essential part of being a motorcycle owner. You can fix simple issues on your Honda motorcycle, such as switching out a bad spark plug or tightening a loose bolt--if you have the right tools. Check with the owners manual of your model Honda motorcycle for the exact specs of the tools needed to work on it.

Spark Plug Socket

    If you own a motorcycle, chances are good that you will need to change out your spark plugs often. If this happens when you are out in the middle of a ride, you will need to change them on the road. Always carry extra spark plugs and a spark plug socket, a small wrench made especially for removing spark plugs. Make sure your spark plug socket is for a metric motor. Check your Honda motorcycle owners manual to see what type of spark plugs your engine requires.

Multi-Tool

    As its name implies, a multi-tool is a compact tool that can perform a variety of functions. It can be a knife, a screwdriver or pliers to name a few. Several companies make multi-tools, but theyre universal, so choose the one that performs the most useful functions for you (see Resources).

Allen Wrench Set

    An Allen wrench is also known as a "hex key." An Allen wrench set includes several sizes for various jobs. The hexagonal heads are used to drive the bolts and screws on your Honda motorcycle that have hexagonal sockets. Allen wrenches are light and small so they can be carried along with you on your motorcycle.

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How to Repair a Chrysler Key Fob

How to Repair a Chrysler Key Fob

Key fobs let you lock and unlock your car doors remotely, eliminating the need to physically unlock or lock your car in the rain or in the dark. Unfortunately, with technology occasionally come problems. If you find that the key fob to your Chrysler is having trouble, not working or just broken, youll have to have it repaired.

Instructions

    1

    Call a Chrysler vehicle dealership and ask to speak with someone in the maintenance department.

    2

    Explain in as much detail as you can the problem you are having with your Chryslers key fob. For example, if your key fob works only to unlock your doors but not to lock them, explain that this is your issue.

    3

    Replace the battery. According to Chrysler, the most common problem with key fobs is simple: the battery is dead. You can pick up a battery from an auto parts store by giving the clerk the year, make and model of your car. Chrysler mechanics recommend picking one up and using a knife to pry apart the two pieces of your key fob, exchange the old battery for the new battery and trying your remote. If your remote still does not work, make an appointment to take it to Chrysler.

    4

    Take your key fob to the Chrysler dealership -- if applicable -- and pay for the repair once your fob is fixed or your fob is deemed irreparable and you have to order a new one.

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Friday, October 25, 2013

Harley Flywheel Balance Symptoms

Harley Flywheel Balance Symptoms

Every motorcycle that comes off the Harley-Davidson assembly line is different. Each half of a flywheel, each crankshaft, piston, rod, ring, lock, button and cage making up the entire flywheel assembly is equally different from the others. Because of the sensitive nature of the function provided, a featherweight imbalance in the flywheel grows exponentially to affect the smooth ride of your bike -- especially the Harley Sportster and the 45 degree V-Twin, affectionately known as the "Shaker".

Engine Shakes

    The flywheel assembly buffers and moderates power put out by an engine. The 45-degree angle of the Harley V-Twin engine makes it difficult to cancel out the reciprocating spins of the engine; if you feel as if your teeth will out of your head when you ride, you are experiencing the not difficult-to-detect Harley balance symptoms inherent in your hog. Because the parts are assembly made, the two halves of the flywheel will not be exact. Any slight difference in weight between the two halves creates an imbalance that, once it shakes through the entire assembly, intensifies the engines vibration.

Factory-Bought Harleys

    Balancing the flywheel is an expensive and time-consuming operation. Each bike undergoes a balancing procedure to a manufacturing standard applied to each model and then released to the dealer. Factory-bought machines have advantages. When it comes to Harley troubleshooting, however, a customized bike is less likely to shake than a factory-issued bike. When you turn the ignition on and the engine starts to shake in an elliptical fashion or you find yourself wearing out ball bearings at a great rate, the flywheel assembly was likely only factory balanced.

Engine Shakes Above 3000 RPM

    The higher the revolutions per minute (rpm), the greater the horsepower used and the greater the stress placed on the engine. Harley balance symptoms increase to the point of becoming unmistakable and discomfiting vibrations. If you drag race with your bike then, you are taking it above standard operational rpm. Even if you had your flywheels balanced for regular street riding, the greater demand you put on your Harley will cause a change in the rotation of the flywheels and accentuate any slight imbalance. You may also have customized the pistons or even the flywheels themselves for enhanced racing performance, which will also cause a misalignment of the flywheel assembly, resulting in the shakes.

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How to Top Up Brake Fluid in a Ford Puma

The Ford Puma, manufactured from 1997 to 2001, is a compact sports coupe available in Europe. While the Puma never officially made it to the US, the car shared much of its technology, including the Zetec engine, with many US-branded Ford vehicles. The Puma uses DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid as its sole brake system fluid. This fluid, like many other brake fluids, is non-compressable and has a high resistance to attracting moisture. The brake fluid is filled through a reservoir mounted on top of the brake master cylinder.

Instructions

    1

    Turn off the engine and pop open the Pumas hood. Support the hood with the hood prop stick.

    2

    Locate the brake fluid reservoir on top of the master cylinder. It is made from white plastic and sits on the master cylinder that protrudes from the right rear section of the engine firewall.

    3

    Clean any dust, debris and dirt off of the reservoir cap with a clean shop rag. Remove the cap by turning it counterclockwise and set the cap aside.

    4

    Pour brake fluid into the reservoir until the level becomes even with the MAX mark imprinted on the left side of the reservoir.

    5

    Replace the cap, clean up any spilled brake fluid, and close the hood.

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How to Stop a Leak in a Water Pump Seal

How to Stop a Leak in a Water Pump Seal

The water pump seal prevents water and antifreeze from leaking out and overheating your vehicles engine. According to AA1Car, most water pumps are designed to go 100,000 miles or more, but its not unusual to see leaks occur after 50,000 or 60,000 miles. Replacing the entire water pump is often necessary in putting a stop to the seal leak.

Instructions

    1

    Pour a liquid radiator/water pump stop-leak product, such as Bars Liquid Radiator Stop Leak, into your vehicles radiator. The radiator is usually located in the front of the engine. The liquid stop-leak product poured into the radiator will flow to the water pump seal and possibly seal or slow the leak. Ensure that the radiator is not hot, and your vehicle is running before pouring the solution into your radiator. Stop-leak products are not a permanent solution and will only serve as a temporary fix.

    2

    Replace the entire water pump. You will need to know your vehicles exact make, model, year and engine type in order to purchase the correct water pump for your vehicle.

    3

    Find or purchase your specific vehicles repair manual. Because every vehicle is different, you will need your vehicles specific repair manual to successfully replace the water pump. The repair manual will describe in detail step by step instructions on how to replace your vehicles water pump. You can purchase or find a repair manual for your vehicle at automotive stores or at your local library.

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How to Remove a Camaro Dash

How to Remove a Camaro Dash

The Camaro is a muscle car made by General Motors under the Chevrolet brand. The Camaro hit the market in 1966 for the 1967 model year to compete directly against the Ford Mustang. The Camaro dashboard is known to warp, especially on the passenger side. Over time, as these cars age, the interior dashboard often cracks and fades. Because the Camaro is built in many sections for ease of part replacement, you can remove the dash by removing a series of screws in some hard-to-find places.

Instructions

    1

    Open the glove box and remove the three or four screws leading into the dash.

    2

    Lie on your back on the drivers side and look up under the steering column. Remove the two screws in the rear.

    3

    Remove the two screws near the radio.

    4

    Remove the molding around the radio.

    5

    Remove any other peripherals on the dash.

    6

    Shimmy the dash loose and pull it up, off and away from the body of the car.

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Thursday, October 24, 2013

Ford Contour Timing Belt Installation

Ford Contour Timing Belt Installation

A timing belt connects the crankshaft of a car engine to the camshaft. It synchronizes the camshaft to the crankshaft so the engine valves will open and close at the proper time. The timing belt will need to be replaced at a certain time according to the manufacturers instructions. It may also become damaged or cracked and need to be replaced before that period of time is over. If it is not replaced it can result in damage to the engine of the Ford Contour that could be very costly.

Instructions

    1

    Pop the hood of the Ford and locate the timing belt near the engine of the vehicle. Loosen and remove the accessory drive belts from the engine with an adjustable wrench.

    2

    Take off the right motor mount on the engine. Unscrew the two bolts holding it in place with a socket wrench. Loosen the six crankshaft bolts holding the pulley in place and remove it. Take off both the upper and lower timing belt covers.

    3

    Loosen the belt tensioner bolt and push the tensioner away from the belt. Tighten the tensioner bolt to hold it in place and remove the timing belt.

    4

    Position the new timing belt on the pulleys and verify that all the timing marks are properly aligned. Loosen the tensioner bolt so the spring can pull it tight against the belt. Tighten down on the tensioner bolt with a wrench and make sure that there is 1/3 of an inch between the tensioner and the crankshaft pulley.

    5

    Rotate the crankshaft two turns to realign the timing marks correctly. Put everything back in place in the reverse order that it was removed following the same procedures. Record the date or mileage that the timing belt was replaced so it will be known when it needs to be replaced again.

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How to Replace the Oxygen Sensor in a Hyundai Elantra

The Hyundai Elantra has been around since 1991, but wasnt made available in North America or Europe until 1993. Featuring different four-cylinder engines throughout its generational redesigns, replacing the oxygen sensors has remained a fairly standardized repair for the imported car. The upstream sensor is in the manifold or front head pipe and the downstream sensor is near the catalytic converter. The same tools can be used to replace either one, but the sensors are slightly different part numbers and are not interchangeable.

Instructions

    1

    Start the Hyundai Elantra for five minutes or so to warm up the exhaust. Drive it up onto the car ramps, apply the parking brake, shut the car off and then block one of the rear wheels with a wheel block. If youre replacing the front oxygen sensor, release the hood latch before getting out of the Elantra and then open the hood after setting the wheel block.

    2

    Crawl under the Elantra with the tools and replacement sensor(s). Locate the sensor in question; front upstream sensor near the manifold and downstream sensor near the catalytic converter.

    3

    Apply a generous amount of penetrating oil to the area where the threads of the sensor connect to the pipe or manifold. Allow five to 10 minutes for it to soak in. Apply a second coat if necessary.

    4

    Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire from the wire harness plug connection. A small straightedge screwdriver may help release the press-in tabs of the plug, but be careful since its made of plastic.

    5

    Use the swivel-head ratchet and oxygen sensor socket to remove the front sensor or a 22 mm wrench for the downstream sensor. Be sure the wire of the sensor is placed in the slot of the oxygen sensor socket. For the 22 mm box-end wrench, feed the wire through the wrench first and then place the box-end side onto the hexagonal shaped sensor. Apply steady pressure on the ratchet or wrench in the counterclockwise position to unscrew it from the exhaust system.

    6

    Screw the new sensor into the oxygen sensor port. Most all Bosch direct fit sensors have a light coating of anti-seize compound on the thread to make removal of the sensor for the next replacement easier. Do not to allow the anti-seize compound to contaminate the thimble-shaped tip of the sensor.

    7

    Tighten the sensor until it feels snug. Do not over-tighten as the threads of the sensor are delicate and you can easily strip them. Plug the sensor wire back into the wire harness.

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How to Patch a Car Bumper

How to Patch a Car Bumper

Over time, your cars bumper will likely sustain cracks, scratches or blemishes. If you accidentally bump into other objects or get hit by other vehicles, the damage can be minor but noticeable. Since many of todays cars have plastic bumpers, you can patch a hole, crack or blemish yourself, which will save you from spending money on expensive car repairs. This task requires a few tools and materials.

Instructions

    1

    Smooth the affected area of the bumper with a section of 80-grit sandpaper by rubbing the sand paper across the damage from side to side. This will help the paint adhere to the bumper.

    2

    Slide on a pair of plastic gloves. Dab a small quantity of plastic prep solvent onto a clean lint-free microfiber cloth. Smooth the solvent across the affected area of the bumper in the same direction. Do not wipe back and forth.

    3

    Stir together 3 tbsp. of hardener and 3 tbsp. of repair adhesive on a piece of cardboard.

    4

    Wipe the repair adhesive and hardener mixture on the damaged area of the bumper with a squeegee. Wait about 20 minutes for the substance to dry on the bumper. Apply another layer if necessary to completely cover the blemish. Wait for it to dry before moving on. Use only as much of the mixture as you need; you may not use it all.

    5

    Apply a thin layer of plastic filler onto the damaged area with your second squeegee. Wait for it to dry, which normally takes 20 to 30 minutes. Be careful not to put the plastic filler on too thick, because it will be harder to sand down later.

    6

    Smooth out the repaired area with a piece of 80-grit sandpaper. Make sure the plastic filler has completely dried before you do this.

    7

    Dispense the paint you will be using into the paint sprayer, according to the manufacturers directions. Apply two or three coats of paint to the affected area, waiting about one hour between coats. Allow the paint to dry overnight.

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Wednesday, October 23, 2013

How to Choose an Exhaust System for Sound

You want to choose your exhaust so the other cars on the road know youre there. But its important to know which exhaust systems give you the best performance as well as sound. Heres how to choose one of the best exhaust systems for your ride while keeping muffler tone a priority.

Instructions

    1

    Preview the sound before you put out the cash. Dynomax performance exhaust systems have sound bytes that you can download for some of their systems on Firebirds, Mustangs and Civics with a Vtec engine. Log on to the A-1 Performance website to get an earful.

    2

    Cruise the local shows for ideas. Nothing compares to hearing an exhaust system in person, so scope out the sights and most importantly, the sounds, at the local car cruise. Youll get ideas of what works best on your make and model.

    3

    Choose your sound. Decide if you want the classic V-8 rumble or a more toned-down sound. A great choice in either case is one of the Flowmaster exhaust systems. You can trust their 22 years of experience in the muffler business and they have an exhaust for every type of sound youre looking for.

    4

    Decide whether you want a dual exhaust or single exhaust system. Keep in mind that some dual exhaust systems dont perform properly because they are designed only for looks. To ensure a great dual exhaust sound, be sure to choose a system like the Flowmaster.

    5

    Keep performance a priority. The exhaust systems note is important, but dont sacrifice performance for sound. Be sure your exhaust system matches your engine manifold and is fitted correctly down your undercarriage, or else you may be looking at decreased engine performance.

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How to Replace a 2003 Hyundai Sonata Timing Belt

The 2003 Hyundai Sonata is available with a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine with a double overhead cam. This engine design requires a timing belt to synchronize the crankshaft with the camshaft. The Sonatas timing belt should be replaced approximately every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

    1

    Remove components as required to access the cover of the timing belt on the front of the engine. Disconnect the cover with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark on the cylinder head. This places the No. 1 piston in the top dead center position needed to replace the timing belt.

    2

    Disconnect the tensioner and the idler pulley for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Detach the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft.

    3

    Turn the crankshaft clockwise again to align the timing marks if necessary. Connect the tensioner for the timing belt and the idler pulley. Tighten the mounting bolt for the idler pulley to between 32 and 41 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench.

    4

    Place the timing belt over the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket in that order. Turn the timing belt tensioner to place tension on the timing belt. The timing belt is at the proper tension when five pounds of force in the middle of the longest span of the timing belt produces a deflection of 0.16 to 0.24 in.

    5

    Tighten the bolt for the tensioner pulley to between 32 and 41 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise by one complete turn to realign the timing marks.

    6

    Adjust the belt tension again if necessary. Replace the cover of the timing belt cover and any components you removed to access the timing belt.

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How to Replace a Headlight Bulb on a 2004 Grand Prix

How to Replace a Headlight Bulb on a 2004 Grand Prix

The 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix houses two headlight bulbs per drivers side and passenger side headlight assembly. The low beam bulbs are located on the fender side of the headlight assemblies and the high beam bulbs are on the grill side of the assemblies. Allow the bulbs look exactly alike, they require different automotive part numbers for low and high beam bulbs. Because of this, inspecting the position of the faulty headlight in the assembly and buying the correct bulb will make the repair that much easier.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Grand Prix on a flat surface, apply the parking brake and ensure both the engine and headlight switches are off.

    2

    Open the hood and approach the headlight assembly with the faulty headlight bulb.

    3

    Locate the headlight assembly retaining clip. Its behind the headlight assembly on top on the fender side. Lift the clip upward halfway to release the headlight assembly.

    4

    Pull the assembly out being careful not to scratch the paint on the fender or the lens of the assembly.

    5

    Reach behind the assembly and disconnect the wire connection and plug from the headlight bulb socket.

    6

    Turn the socket of the bulb counterclockwise 1/4-turn to remove the composite bulb from the assembly. Discard the bulb.

    7

    Install the replacement bulb into the assembly (handling the plastic socket part only -- oil in skin will damage the glass bulb of halogen bulbs because of the intense heat they burn at), but ensure the tabs of the socket end of the bulb are aligned with the notches in the assembly before turning it clockwise and locking the bulb into place.

    8

    Plug the wire connection back into the socket of the bulb before replacing the assembly back into place and pushing down on the retaining clip. Test the headlight bulb for operation before closing the hood.

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Tuesday, October 22, 2013

The Best Spark Plugs for a Ford 5 4 Engine

The Best Spark Plugs for a Ford 5.4 Engine

Frustration surrounds the Ford 5.4 Triton Engine. First, Ford had problems, according to Consumer Affairs, when the 5.4-liter engine blew spark plugs out of the head. Then, models from 2004 to 2008 were affected by spark plugs that were hard to remove and broke off in the head, according to Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 8-7-6. This affects all Ford and Lincoln Mercury vehicles with the 5.4-liter engine. The best spark plugs to install for the 5.4-liter Triton engine resist carbon buildup, are durable and come in one-piece.

Motorcraft

    The new Motorcraft spark plug for the 5.4 Triton engine, the MC SP507 platinum plug, replaces the old plug, PZT14F. The SP507 is one piece and has a little more durability. The design prevents fouling at low engine speeds, and is self-cleaning at high engine speeds. The old PZT14F was designed in two pieces, and would have a tendency to break off in the head due to carbon buildup on the seat. The newer plug tends to be more durable in the torque stress. The lack of carbonization buildup with the newer model aids in removing used spark plugs. This spark plug was made for the Ford owner who wants to stick with original equipment.

Champion

    According to Drew Shippy, a spokesperson from Champion, "The new Champion 7989, another one-piece design, has greater durability and is the hottest-selling spark plug Champion has." The Champion 7989 has a double platinum design, and withstands the carbon buildup characteristic of the 5.4 Triton engine. Its one-piece design addresses the problem of breakage during removal, and the superior heat-active alloy prevents excessive carbon buildup. The Champion is crimped and laser-welded to form one piece.

Autolite

    Autolite makes the HT-1.5, which was designed to be more durable than the HT-1. This single platinum spark plug was the Autolite answer to plugs breaking in the 5.4 Triton engines. According to Autolite, the original plug was redesigned for enhanced durability and power. Autolite designed the HT-1.5 to run hotter. Hotter-running plugs do not corrode and foul, and are self-cleaning. The spark plug continues to be a two-piece design, but incorporates a nickel plating to prevent corrosion and carbonization. The old Autolite plugs were designed with copper sheath and threads, which were prone to fusing and corroding.

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How to Reset the Saturns Airbag Light

How to Reset the Saturns Airbag Light

You can reset your Saturns airbag light right from your home garage, saving you a trip to the dealership or mechanic. The airbag light or "SRS" light (Supplemental Restraint System) illuminates on your instrument panel when there is a malfunction detected with the airbag system. You should immediately have the airbag assembly examined by a qualified mechanic and replaced, if necessary. Once this is accomplished, you can reset the airbag light.

Instructions

    1

    Pop up the hood of your Saturn and locate the battery. Find the negative battery cable clamp and notice the nut attached to it. Loosen the nut with an end wrench and slip the clamp off of the negative battery terminal. Take care not to touch the positive side of the battery with it.

    2

    Allow the vehicle to rest for 30 minutes.

    3

    Put the negative battery cable clamp back onto the negative terminal and tighten the nut with the end wrench. Close the hood of the Saturn.

    4

    Start the vehicle and observe the instrument panel to verify that the airbag light has shut off.

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How to Replace a Land Cruiser Oxygen Sensor

How to Replace a Land Cruiser Oxygen Sensor

Your Toyota Land Cruiser monitors the oxygen levels in the exhaust using oxygen sensors. When an oxygen sensor fails, your truck begins to burn more fuel, running rich. Your gas mileage will decrease and the check engine light may come on. A Toyota Land Cruiser has as many as four oxygen sensors if it is equipped with dual exhaust. A single exhaust truck will have two sensors.

Instructions

    1

    Identify the sensor you need to replace. For trucks with single exhaust pipes, you will find the sensors in front of and behind the catalytic converter. If you have dual exhaust, you will have a set of two sensors on each exhaust pipe. Replace them all for ease of maintenance if you can. You can buy sensors at a Toyota dealer or auto parts specialty store.

    2

    Pull the wiring harness from the top of the sensor. The wiring harness clips into place and will pull free easily.

    3

    Remove the sensor from the exhaust pipe. You may find two retaining nuts securing it, or it may thread into the pipe. Use a closed-end wrench to remove the nuts if needed. Use an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet to remove the sensor if it threads into the pipe.

    4

    Replace the sensor with a new one, threading it in by hand and then tightening it with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. If retaining nuts secure your sensor, replace them and tighten them with a closed-end wrench.

    5

    Insert the wiring harness connector to the top of the oxygen sensor. Press the connector in until it is secure. Repeat the process on the remaining sensors.

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The Harmful Affects of Freon

The Harmful Affects of Freon

Freon today is both a benefactor and a subtle threat to humans. The gas helped replaced a harmful alternative and is now regularly used in both automotive air conditioning systems and food coolers. At the same time, the chemical also contributes to an environmental threat that could make being in the sun dangerous for millions in the future.

History

    During the 1920s, chemicals used in cooling processes had caused a number of fatal accidents, forcing many to move their food coolers out into the backyard and garage to avoid being poisoned. In 1928, Freon was developed and answered the problem of circulating a refrigerant for cooling that wasnt poisonous. By 1930, Freon was being installed in both kitchen appliances and cars on a regular basis. To this day, the brand name of Freon is still owned by DuPont, one of the primary manufacturers of the product.

Human Interaction

    Incidental exposure to Freon is nontoxic, which made it a great replacement chemical for refrigerators versus the prior, poisonous chemicals used for the same purpose. However, skin exposure to concentrated leakage can cause freezing burns on contact. Very concentrated forms of Freon can cause core organ damage if long-term exposure occurs.

Environmental Damage

    Freon has been documented to be quite harmful to the earths ozone layer. Proliferation of the chemical and its eventual escape as a gas has added significant amounts to the atmosphere. This particular chemical reacts with the planets atmospheric ozone layer, disintegrating it. It can also bond with water and contaminate water sources and deposits.

Special Situation for Heart Conditions

    Those with acute heart problems should maintain a heightened awareness of Freon leaks. While Freon inhaled will get ejected from the body quickly with exhalation, it can replace oxygen cells in high concentration. This effect can cause heart palpitations or an irregular heart rate at initial exposure. For those with a weak heart, the situation can lead to all sorts of circulatory side effects and possibly a heart attack.

Regulatory Phaseout

    Freons days are numbered. Per the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Freon needs to eventually be eliminated from use due to its ozone depletion threat. As part of the Montreal Protocol, of which the U.S. is a partner, Freons demise is to begin en masse by 2015. By 2020 the Agency wants to ban 99.5 percent of all production Freon available in all products. By 2030 all use of Freon in any form is to be eliminated in the U.S.

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Monday, October 21, 2013

How to Install a Flowmaster Exhaust System

For as long as there have been muscle cars, there has been a desire by some owners to make their cars louder and more powerful. One modification that accomplishes both of these tasks is to install a Flowmaster exhaust system on your vehicle. The reduced exhaust backpressure associated with this installation will raise your engines horsepower slightly, as well as give your machine a classic muscle car sound. The Flowmaster exhaust system can be installed on your vehicle in just a few hours with regular mechanics tools.

Instructions

    1

    Back your vehicle onto a set of car ramps and apply the parking brake. Chock the front wheels to prevent any unwanted movement.

    2

    Crawl under the vehicle and apply penetrating fluid to the fittings on your present exhaust system to allow for easier removal. Allow the fluid to work in for several minutes be continuing.

    3

    Don safety goggles and gloves for protection against falling rust particles and sharp metal edges. Loosen the pipe clamps on the exhaust system by turning the clamp nuts in a counterclockwise direction with an adjustable wrench.

    4

    Remove the bolts from the exhaust hangers at the rear of the car with an adjustable wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Work the exhaust system towards the back of the car to separate it from the exhaust head pipes. Use a twisting motion on the exhaust pipes to separate them from the head pipes if necessary. Lower the exhaust system from the vehicle. Remove the rubber isolators and pipe hangers from the mufflers with an adjustable wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Save these parts for the installation of the Flowmaster system. Discard the old exhaust system..

    5

    Install the rubber isolators and hangers to the new Flowmaster exhaust system with the original bolts turned with an adjustable wrench in a clockwise direction. Note that the hangers will install to your Flowmaster system in the same fashion as your stock exhaust.

    6

    Place the Flowmaster system under your vehicle with the mufflers facing the rear. Raise the system up and fit the front of the Flowmaster pipes into the vehicles head pipes until they are fully seated. Attach the pipe hangers to the bottom of the car using the original mounting holes and bolts tightened with an adjustable wrench in a clockwise direction. Install the pipe clamps supplied with your Flowmaster kit onto the joint where the pipes meet the cars original head pipes. Tighten the clamps with an adjustable wrench in a clockwise direction.

    7

    Remove the wheel chocks, release the parking brake, and carefully drive the car off of the ramps.

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DIY Catalytic Converter Replacement

DIY: Catalytic Converter Replacement

A catalytic converter in a car helps eliminate harmful exhaust emissions that contribute to air pollution. After many years of use, the converter can become clogged and cause the vehicle to run poorly. Usually, the car will have very little power and will not be able to achieve a speed above 20 miles per hour. These are the two main symptoms that a new catalytic converter may be needed.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the catalytic converter by tracking the exhaust pipe from the engine: the catalytic converter will be the first large rectangular-shaped object that you come across. It looks somewhat like the muffler, but it will always come first in the exhaust system before the muffler. Raise the front corner of the car on the side that the catalytic converter is nearest to with a jack. Slide a jack stand under the frame of the car and lower it onto the stand with the jack. Crawl under the vehicle and spray penetrating lubricant onto all of the bolts on the exhaust system near the catalytic converter.

    2

    Use a wrench to unscrew the oxygen sensor that connects to the exhaust system near the catalytic converter. This sensor will be a small piece sticking out about the size of a spark plug. There will be a wire attached to it. Allow the sensor to hang off to the side by this wire.

    3

    Loosen the bolts in the clamp between the catalytic converter and the engine with a wrench then remove the clamp. Move to the back of the converter and locate the bolts in the coupling in the exhaust pipe. Use the wrench to remove these bolts. The catalytic converter and the pipe attached to it will drop down slightly.

    4

    Work the assembly back and forth to pull the pipe apart where it was clamped in front of the converter. You will also be pulling out the pins attached to the exhaust pipe that go through the rubber bushings on the exhaust pipe hangers. When all of this comes loose, you will be able to pull the converter out from under the vehicle.

    5

    Slide the new converter under the vehicle. Lift it and slide the pipe on the front of it onto the exhaust coming from the engine. At the same time, push the pins into the bushings on the hangers. When the catalytic converter is properly positioned, the rear coupling should be ready for the bolts to be reinserted and tightened. Use the wrench and tighten these bolts.

    6

    Move the clamp back into position in front of the converter and tighten the bolts to fasten the pipes securely. Screw the oxygen sensor back into the port on the exhaust pipe and tighten it with the wrench. Start the car and check for leaks. Tighten the bolts if any leaking is present. Remove the jack stand and lower the jack to return the car to the ground.

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Lincoln Town Car Alignment Specifications

Lincoln originally introduced the Town Car as a trim of the 1969 to 1971 Continental. It became a separate model in 1972 and has since been Lincolns most recognized and successful sedan. It is known not only for the performance of its V-8 engine, but also for its comfortable ride and its wide, spacious six-person seating. The current generation of the Town Car rolled out in 2003. The alignment specs for all trims of the 2010 Lincoln Town Car are the same, and the alignment cannot be adjusted on the rear wheels.

Caster

    The caster angle is the measurement of a positive or negative slope in line between the upper and lower steering pivots in a wheel when looking at it from the side of the vehicle. The caster angle is measured in degrees. The limits for the caster angle in the 2010 Lincoln Town Car are +5.45 degrees to +6.95 degrees. The ideal setting for the caster angle is +6.2 degrees.

Camber

    The camber is the angle that the tire slants when looked at from the front of the car. If the top of the tire looks like it is tilting inward toward the cars engine, then the camber angle is negative. If it tilts outward away from the engine, then the camber angle is positive. Like the caster angle, the camber angle is measured in degrees. The limits for the camber angle in the 2010 Lincoln Town Car are -1.35 degrees to +.15 degrees, and the ideal setting for the camber angle is -.6 degrees.

Toe-in

    The front wheels of many vehicles are angled slightly toward each other at their fronts to help take pressure off of the vehicles suspension. This inward angle is referred to as the "toe-in" and is the measurement of the exact angle the wheels sit in relation to the centerline of the vehicle when viewed from above. The toe-in can also be presented in inches by measuring the distance between the fronts of the two front tires and the distance between the backs of the two front tires, with the difference being the toe-in. The limits for the toe-in in the 2010 Lincoln Town Car are +.13 degrees to +3.7 degrees. The 2010 "Motor Auto Repair Manual" suggests performing a ball-joint inspection when calculating or adjusting the toe-in.

FYI

    Please keep in mind that the alignment specs for a vehicle change from year to year, as well as from model to model. Be sure to check your owners manual or speak with a certified mechanic before making any significant repairs or adjustments to your vehicle.

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Sunday, October 20, 2013

D268 Engine Specs

The D268 engine is manufactured by Case International Harvester (Case IH). Case IH develops and manufactures several brands of agricultural equipment. Their engines and farm equipment are distributed around the world under several well-known brand names. Case IH brands include Farmall, Maxxum and International Harvester. The International Harvester tractor, as well as other farm Case IH equipment, is known for its signature red color. In 2008, the company introduced a Gold Signature Edition tractor to celebrate milestone anniversaries of Stieger and Magnum tractors. The models are limited editions with decals that are personally signed by the Case IH president.

Engine

    The diesel-fueled D268 engine is four cylinders and has 82 to 85 horsepower. Its displacement is 268 cubic inches. Bore and stroke is 3.937 by 5.50 inches. Its rated RPM is 2,400.

Battery

    The battery is rated 12 volts and 735 amps. The battery dimensions are 45 by 172 by 232 millimeters.

Crankshaft

    The crankshaft flange is flat with no centering rings. It has a center straight balance gear with 90 teeth. The crankshaft is designed with one keyway timing gear and an L hand helix with 33 teeth. Main journals and rod journals (standard size) are included with the purchase of the crankshaft. The rear sleeve crank seal is 4.327 to 4.335.

Valves

    The intake valve is 1.689 inches in head diameter, 5.743 inches in length, and has a 0.392-inch stem diameter. The exhaust valve is 1.611 inches in head diameter, 5.745 inches in length, and has a 0.391-inch stem diameter. The valve guide has a 0.387-inch inside diameter and is 3.038 inches in length.

Bearings

    The main set of bearing rods is 3.1485 inches with a 1.492-inch journal. The standard length for the main flange is 1.437 inches. The oversize length for the main flange is 1.447 to 1.467 inches. The bearing rod pair is 2.5185 inches with a 2.5193-inch journal. The locking lip is on the right side.

Starter and Air Filter

    The starter is rated 9 volts and 2.7 kilowatts. The starter weighs 24 pounds. The inner air-filter dimensions are 13 by 3-1/2 inches.

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How to Search for Historic Parts by VIN Through Ford

How to Search for Historic Parts by VIN Through Ford

If you need to replace an older historic part on a Ford Motor Company vehicle, you may have trouble finding it at an auto supply store near you. One option is to search directly at Ford, using a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Automobile manufacturers have been using VINs since 1954 to describe and identify their vehicles, using numbers of varying lengths. In 1981, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration began requiring that all road vehicles sold in the U.S. must have a 17-character VIN. Locate the VIN on your Ford vehicle, which is usually located on the drivers side of the dashboard near the window. You can also find it printed in the vehicles title and insurance paperwork.

Instructions

    1

    Access the Ford Parts website.

    2

    Type the VIN into the "Shop By VIN" box.

    3

    Click on "Search Catalog."

    4

    Click on the category of the part you need, such as "Body," "Brake," "Engine" or "Transmission," and click on a sub-category, if applicable. A list of parts available for your vehicle will appear, along with prices and an option to search for a dealer by zip code or city and state.

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How to Replace the Stock Radio on a 2004 350Z

Nissan designed the stock radio in a 2004 Nissan 350Z sports coupe to reliably provide full, rich sound through all of the stock speakers. Although this radio unit is known for its reliability, problems do arise from time to time. These problems include CD player failure, where the CD wont eject or play properly, or radio failure, where the radio produces static through the speakers or doesnt respond to the button commands. When problems like this arise, the stock radio must be replaced with another unit.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable with a battery cable wrench.

    2

    Grip inside the shift console ring with two hands and pull up on it to dislodge the shifter console panel. Disconnect the white ribbon cable attached to the climate control panel, then swing the shifter console panel out of the way.

    3

    Open the storage box above the radio and pull out the rubber mat. Remove the two screws on the bottom of the storage box with a screwdriver. Grip the bottom leading edge of the storage box frame and remove the lower cover plate. Remove the two screws behind the lower cover plate.

    4

    Remove the six screws underneath the radio assembly near the white ribbon cable. Grip the top of the console and gently pull it towards you to disengage it. Disconnect the electrical connectors on the back of the center-mounted gauge cluster.

    5

    Pull the console out, with the radio still connected to it, then disconnect the radios electrical connectors. Remove the four screws holding the radio to the console, then remove the radio.

Installation

    6

    Position the radio inside the console and then reinstall the radio retaining screws.

    7

    Set the console in position, then reconnect the radios electrical connectors. Reconnect the electrical connectors on the center-mounted gauge cluster.

    8

    Press the console down into place in the dashboard until its fully-seated. Reinstall the console retaining screws beneath the radio, and inside the storage box.

    9

    Replace the storage box trim piece. Reconnect the climate controls ribbon cable, then set the shifter console into position and press it down into place.

    10

    Reconnect the negative battery cable and test the radio.

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Saturday, October 19, 2013

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 1991 525 BMW

The BMW 5 series of vehicles consists of midsize cars and has been in production since 1972. The 1991 BMW 525 has a BMW M50B25 engine, which is a 6-cylinder 2.5L engine generating 189 horsepower. This engine uses fuel injection, which requires the fuel pump to deliver fuel to the injectors under high pressure. The fuel pump in the BMW 525 is attached to the fuel sender, and is accessible from the trunk of the vehicle.

Instructions

    1

    Drain the fuel from the fuel tank, so that the tank is no more than 1/4 full. Remove the panels in the trunk to expose the access cover in the front right corner of the trunk. Unfasten the mounting screws for the access cover with a socket wrench, and remove the access cover. Disconnect the fuel lines and the electrical connector from the fuel sending unit.

    2

    Attach tool 16 1 020 to a socket wrench and use it to turn the large mounting ring on the fuel sending unit counterclockwise. Remove the mounting ring from the fuel sending unit. Discard the gasket on the fuel sending unit.

    3

    Pull the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank without spilling the fuel in the fuel sending unit. Squeeze the mounting hooks on the fuel pump to remove it from the fuel sending unit. Disconnect the fuel hoses and electrical wiring from the fuel pump. Turn the pressure damper on the fuel pump counterclockwise, and remove it from the fuel pump. Remove the fuel pump from its holder. Loosen the mounting screw for the fuel filter, and remove the fuel filter from the fuel pump.

    4

    Connect the fuel filter on the bottom of the new fuel pump, and place the fuel pump into its holder on the fuel sending unit. Connect the pressure damper to the fuel pump. Attach the fuel lines and electrical wiring to the fuel pump. Attach the fuel pump to the fuel sending unit by securing the fuel pump with the mounting hooks.

    5

    Install the new gasket for the fuel sending unit and mount it to the fuel tank. Attach the mounting ring to the fuel sending unit, and tighten the mounting ring to between 27 and 31 foot-pounds with tool 16 1 020. Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring to the fuel sending unit. Replace the trunk access cover and trunk panels.

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How Do I Reset an Airbag in a 2001 Mazda B3000

How Do I Reset an Airbag in a 2001 Mazda B3000?

The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or airbag light on a 2001 Mazda B3000 is designed to alert the driver to malfunctions in the airbag system. The light may illuminate on the instrument panel for reasons unrelated to the airbag, or it may illuminate because of a real problem that needs to be addressed. If you have recently replaced the vehicles battery or installed a new stereo, theres a good chance that the airbag just needs to be reset. Perform the following steps to shut off the light. If the light turns itself back on, then you should take it to a qualified mechanic to have the airbag system examined.

Instructions

    1

    Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ACC" position then turn it off again. Do this 10 times quickly but do not start the engine. If this procedure does not reset the SRS light, proceed to Step 2.

    2

    Locate the fuse panel cover on the drivers side dashboard. Open the panel by pulling down on the cover from the top by hand. Locate the SRS fuse by referring to the fuse diagram. Pull the fuse out with the fuse puller and examine it to see if it has blown. If it has, replace it. This should reset the light. If not, proceed to Step 3.

    3

    Pop the hood on your Mazda B3000 and loosen the bolt on the negative cable clamp with a pair of pliers. Slip the clamp off the negative battery terminal, taking care not to let it touch anything. Wait about 10 minutes then reconnect it to the terminal and tighten the bolt. Close the hood and start the engine. Examine the instrument panel to verify that the SRS light has shut off.

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Where Is the Gas Filter on a 22R Engine

The original Toyota R engine debuted in 1958. Toyota manufactured the 22R engine from 1981 to 1995. The 22R engine appeared in Toyota pickups, Coronas, Hiluxes, Celicas and 4Runners.

Engine Specs 22R

    The 22R Toyota engine is a 2.4 liter, in-line, four cylinder engine with a single overhead cam configuration. It had two outputs. The first version had 97 horsepower with 129 foot-pounds at 2,800 rpm. The second version had 108 horsepower with 138 foot-pounds of torque at 3,400 rpm. The 22R came in a carbureted version and a fuel-injected version.

Carbureted Version

    The gas filter for the Toyota 22 R engine lies in the main fuel line and is separate from the fuel pump. For the carbureted engine, locate the plastic fuel filter on the right, rear frame rail, near the fuel tank.

Fuel-Injected Version

    In fuel-injected 22R models, Toyota places the filter in different locations. Locate the metal fuel filter on the rear frame rail or in the engine compartment under the injection manifold.

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How to Measure Lug Bolts

How to Measure Lug Bolts

Professionals use a bolt pattern gauge to measure lug bolts on a vehicle so they can determine what size wheel will fit. Even if you dont have a gauge, you can still measure your bolts with a regular ruler. Companies list wheel sizes in the format "4x4.5," where the first digit is the number of lug bolts and the second number is the diameter of a circle drawn through the middle of the bolts, expressed in inches or millimeters.

Instructions

    1

    Count the number of lug bolts on your vehicle. If it has five lug bolts, youll need to measure differently than if it has four, six or eight.

    2

    Lay a ruler across the ends of the lug bolts and measure from the center of one lug bolt to the center of the lug bolt directly across from it, if you have an even number of lug bolts. If you have five lug bolts, measure the first and third bolt, from the center of one to the outer edge of the other.

    3

    Convert the measurement from inches to millimeters, if necessary. Express the result in inches as a decimal by dividing out the fraction and adding it to the whole inches. Multiply the result by 25.4 to convert to millimeters. For example, to convert 4 5/8 inches, divide 5 by 8 to get .625. Add that to 4 to get 4.625, then multiply it by 25.4 to get 117.48 millimeters.

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Friday, October 18, 2013

How Do I Replace a 2000 Hyundai Sonata GLS Oxygen Sensor

The oxygen sensors in the 2000 Hyundai Sonata GLS are threaded into the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe near the catalytic converter. When an oxygen sensor malfunctions, your car will burn a significant amount of additional fuel. To save the unnecessary fuel expense and possible long-term engine damage, you should replace the sensors as soon as possible. Buy sensors for your Sonata from an auto-parts store or Hyundai dealer.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the Sonata with a jack. Rest the car on jack stands for stability.

    2

    Locate the oxygen sensor either on the manifold or near the catalytic converter, depending on which one you need to change. Pull the wiring connection apart. Remove the oxygen sensor using a wrench.

    3

    Coat the threads of the sensor with anti-seize. Select an anti-seize compound designed for electrical components. Insert the new sensor by hand. Torque it to 40 foot-pounds with your torque wrench.

    4

    Push the two ends of the wiring harness together. The connector will click when it is attached. Repeat the replacement process on the second oxygen sensor if necessary. Lift the car slightly and pull the jack stands out of place. Lower the car to the ground.

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Changing the Belt on a 2004 4Runner

Toyotas 2004 4Runner SR5 V6 and SR5 V8 models -- each with a Sport sub-model -- came equipped with a 4.0-liter V-6 engine or a 4.7-liter V-8 engine. Guess which model came with which engine. While the model names werent very imaginative, they certainly are descriptive.

Accessories Belt

    The good news -- your 2004 4Runner has a single accessories belt so you dont have to fool with a bunch of belts. The bad news -- your 4Runner has a single accessories belt, which means if that belt breaks, you lose everything at once. Changing the belt is pretty much straightforward; just know that the pulley bolt for the belt tensioner has a left-handed thread. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey doesnt apply here. The easiest way Ive found to remove the belt is to turn the belt tensioner counterclockwise and then slip the belt off the pulleys. To install the belt, route it over all the pulleys except for the top idler pulley. Turn the belt tensioner counterclockwise and then slip the belt onto the idler pulley. Especially on the 4.7-liter engine, I had to hold tension on the belt with my hand when routing it around the pulleys, since theres a lot of slack until the belt is fitted on the top idler pulley.

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What Causes a Speedometer to Stick

What Causes a Speedometer to Stick?

Speedometers are a simple automotive gauge that most of us take for granted -- until they start malfunctioning. Older analog speedometers often stick due to problems with their speedometer cable or wear and tear damage to the speedometer itself. Digital speedometers and gauges in newer cars that "stick" or remain at a specific speed likely necessitate replacement by a dealership.

Speedometer Cable Lubrication

    Older cars and trucks have a speedometer cable that attaches from the transmission or transfer case to the gauge cluster in the cabin of the vehicle. Removing the gauge cluster will give you access to the cable, which resembles a coaxial cable that you attach to your television. Use speedometer cable lubricant, which can be purchased at any automotive supply store, to re-lubricate the cable within its sheath. Reattach the cable, replace the gauge cluster and see if the issue has been resolved.

Broken Speedometer Cable

    A broken speedometer cable can cause a speedometer to remain stuck at a specific speed, but will often first exhibit a bouncing speedometer readout. If the cable snapped in such a way so as to prevent the speedometer from falling back to zero, the result would be a stuck gauge. Remove the gauge cluster and replace the speedometer cable by detaching it from the gauge and transmission or transfer case and pulling it through the vehicle firewall. Installation is the opposite of removal.

Damaged Analog Cluster

    On older cars, the analog cluster can wear out just as the speedometer cable itself wears out. Unfortunately, the odometer is often built into the speedometer, and replacing the gauge cluster means installing an odometer that does not accurately reflect the mileage on the car. This can be an issue if you choose to sell your car or if you need to file any insurance claims.

Digital Readouts and Newer Cars

    Digital speedometer and gauge clusters on newer cars often do not have physical speedometer cables connecting the transmission to the gauge. This can be more reliable as there are fewer moving parts, but means that there are fewer do-it-yourself fixes for a malfunctioning gauge. Contact your dealership for information on possible electrical issues that would cause your speedometer to stick.

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