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Stray rocks flying up from the road can easily chip the paint on a car. Ignoring rock chips leaves you more than the unsightly nicks; the chipped areas can get bigger and start to rust, too, leading to greater problems down the road. Fixing the chips is, however, a task that is neither onerous nor exceedingly time consuming. The sooner you fix the chips, the better your car will look and the more protected from rust it will be.

Instructions

1

Clean off the area of the car that has the rock chips in it. Use soap and water to remove debris. Allow time for the car to dry.

2

Sand down the chipped area with sand paper that is 1500- to 2000-grit. This will help to remove any loose paint from the chipped area. It will also help the paint to adhere to the area.

3

Wipe off the sanded area with a damp, lint-free cloth. Using the lint-free cloth will help to make sure that no threads or cloth get stuck in the chipped area.

4

Apply paint that matches your car color. Paint stores can match the color using a small chip, or you can call your car manufacturer to find out what colors were used on your car in the year that it was produced. Paint the chip and paint the area around the chip as well. Allow time to dry between coats before applying another coat. Three to four coats is typically sufficient.

5

Sand down the area. Use sandpaper to get the paint in the chipped area level with the rest of the car surface. Avoid sanding any area to which you have not applied paint, as those areas do not have the extra paint applied that you need to sand down.

6

Apply rubbing compound and buff the area with a soft rag. This will help the paint to blend in better and have a polish to it.

7

Apply wax or polish to protect the new paint.

Car key remotes are helpful because they allow you to lock and unlock your vehicles doors and trunk from afar. They also eliminate the need to locate that tiny little key slot on your car when youre parked in a dark driveway or in the rain. It can be annoying when your car remote breaks, but it is an easy fix.

Instructions

1

Call your car dealership. All car manufacturers feature links on their websites, where you can input your ZIP code to search for the dealer nearest you.

2

Ask to speak to someone in the maintenance department. Explain in detail the issues you are having with your car remote. Sometimes the issue is one that is easily fixable and the mechanic can talk you through the process of fixing it over the phone. If its not, youll need to take the remote to the dealership.

3

Give the remote to a mechanic and ask whether you should wait in the reception area or come back later for the remote.

Vibration causes threaded fasteners to work loose. This allows parts to become unstable and possibly fall free of each other. Permatex threadlocker creates a bond between the female and male threads of a connection. Properly applying Permatex threadlocker to the connection before assembly provides the fasteners with the bond needed to avoid failure of the connection when subjected to vibration.

Instructions

1

Clean the female threads of the connection by sliding a round wire brush into the opening, twisting the handle of the brush and pulling the brush from the threaded hole.

2

Remove debris from the male threads of the connection by running over the threads with a wire brush.

3

Spray aerosol part cleaner on the cleaned male and female threads. Allow the part cleaner to dry for 10 to 15 minutes.

4

Apply part primer to all prepared threads entering the connection. Allow the primer to dry for 15 to 20 minutes.

5

Remove the cap from the Permatex threadlocker. Tilt the nozzle of the threadlocker toward the female threads of a deep threaded hole or the male threads of a bolt and nut connection. Squeeze the bottle of threadlocker to apply a generous amount of product to the threads.

6

Connect the male and female threads of the connection using standard connecting methods.

7

Clean excess Permatex threadlocker from the area surrounding the connection with aerosol part cleaner and a clean rag.

Since 1926 Mercedes-Benz have been selling all over the world, making them one of the most well-known luxury brands of all time. When you purchase a Mercedes-Benz vehicle from any dealership you are given two car keys and a valet key, which is used strictly for parking and will not open your trunk and/or glove compartment. If you lose your keys or you decide youd like an additional key for your Mercedes, you must contact an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership.

Instructions

1

Contact your local Mercedes-Benz dealership. Your 1995 E320 comes with a keyless entry system that requires a special key manufactured by Mercedes-Benz USA to operate the vehicle.

2

Provide Mercedes-Benz with the vehicle identification number, or VIN, and the year of your Mercedes E320. The VIN is located on all of your purchase paperwork, insurance cards and on the door panel of the drivers door. MB needs your VIN because it contains the key code for your specific vehicle, which lets them know exactly how to cut your new key to make it work with your MB.

3

Pick up your new key from Mercedes. Before you pay for and leave with your key you must be able to prove you own the vehicle by providing proof of ownership. Photo identification along with your purchase paperwork, title, registration and/or insurance card are all acceptable.

Most cars today come standard with halogen headlights. When shopping for a new halogen light, the auto shop will have a book to look up the bulb needed for your vehicle, but you may want to know the amperage of the bulb, especially if you have non-factory headlamps.

55-Watt Bulb

A 55-watt bulb run at 12 volts and draws 4.58 amps. These bulbs typically provide about 4,000 candela -- a measurement of light intensity. While they use only 55 watts, these halogen bulbs deliver 100 to 125 watts of light. 55-watt bulbs are typically used for standard headlights.

60-Watt Bulb

A 60-watt halogen bulb draws 5 amps of power. These bulbs have an intensity of about 4,000 candela and deliver around 135 watts of light. High beam headlights generally use a 60-watt bulb.

35-Watt Bulb

A 35-watt halogen bulb running at 12 volts draws 2.92 amps. These lamps are typically used as fog lights and deliver 70 watts of light while using only 35 watts of power.

45-Watt Bulb

A 45-watt bulb draws 3.75 amps of power running at 12 volts. These lamps deliver 95 watts of light. The 45-watt bulb is used in some vehicles as the standard headlight bulb.

Mechanical devices that use high rotational force can harm power transmission systems when rotational speed changes rapidly. Heavy machinery often employs the use of hydraulic fluid couplings to prevent this. Hydraulic fluid couplings transmit rotational force between two separate axes and are commonly found in automobiles and large machinery.

How it Works

Hydraulic fluid couplings transfer rotational force from a transmitting axis to a receiving axis. The coupling consists of two toroids -- doughnut-shaped objects -- in a sealed container of hydraulic fluid. One toroid is attached to the driving shaft and spins with the rotational force. The spinning toroid moves the hydraulic fluid around the receiving toroid. The movement of the fluid turns the receiving toroid and thus turns the connected shaft.

Efficiency

Although fluid couplings use hydraulic fluid within their construction, the mechanism loses a portion of its force to friction and results in the creation of heat. No fluid coupling can run at 100 percent efficiency. Excessive heat production from poorly maintained couplings can result in damage to the coupling and surrounding systems.

Applications

Fluid couplings are commonly used in the automobile industry to replace mechanical clutches. The coupling transfers the force from the engine to the transmission to move the vehicle. Torque converters, a type of fluid coupling with additional features, have replaced basic fluid couplings in automobiles. Hydraulic fluid couplings have also found use in marine machinery and heavy industry.

The 2010 Subaru Outback came in six trims, but the rear alignment specs were the same for all. However, the alignment specs for 2010 should not be applied to other model years. For instance, the rear wheels of a 2010 Outback should have toe-in, while the rear wheels of a 2009 Subaru should have toe-out. This is significant, as inaccurate toe settings are the leading cause of tire wire due to misaligned wheels. Also, the caster is not adjustable on the rear end of the 2010 Outback.

Camber

The camber angle is the measurement of the way a wheel tilts as it is viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle. If the top tilts outward, away from the center of the vehicle, then the wheel has positive camber. If the wheel tilts inward, toward the center of the vehicle, the the wheel has negative camber. The ideal camber angle setting for the rear end of the 2010 Subaru Outback is zero but it can range by 0.75 degrees in either direction.

Toe

Toe is the angle of a wheel in relation to the centerline of a vehicle. Most vehicles are designed for a wheel to have toe-in, meaning the fronts of the wheels will angle slightly inward toward the centerline of the vehicle. Toe-in is given in positive degrees or inches, while toe-out is given in negative degrees or inches. The toe-in on the rear end of a 2010 Subaru Outback should be set at +0.17 degrees, but it can range by 0.25 degrees in either direction. Tires should wear less the closer they are set to the ideal angle.

Thrust Angle

As with toe, thrust angle is related to the way that the wheels are angled in relation to centerline of the vehicle. However, thrust angle ers specifically to the angle of the rear wheels. It is never adjustable on the front end, and on vehicles where the toe is not adjustable on the rear end, the thrust angle must be compensated for by adjusting the toe on the front end. The thrust angle on the rear end of the 2010 Subaru Outback should be +0.5 degrees.

The fuel pump switch is also known as the inertia switch, a device that prevents fuel from going to the engine if your 1991 Ford Explorer happens to get into a collision. It also enables the fuel pressure to be relieved.

Location

The inertia switch can be found mounted on the floor pan on the passenger side inside your Explorer; look below the heater unit. It will have an electrical connector attached to it.

Servicing the Fuel System

Disconnect the electrical connector that is attached to the inertia switch when performing a task such as relieving the fuel pressure on your Ford Explorer. Whenever youve finished servicing the fuel system, reattach the electrical connector to the switch. You do not need any tool for removing and attaching the connector.

Reset Button

The inertia switch also has a reset button at the top to use in the event the switch was activated during a procedure like relieving the fuel pressure, which would create a popping-like sound. Simply push the button to reset the switch if this occurs.

Most vehicles today have multiple fan speeds for the heat and A/C. These speeds are controlled by a blower motor resistor. The blower motor resistor is a small electrical device that controls the voltage to the fan motor. If the resistor becomes defective, you may only have one working speed on your fan control. If this problem occurs, the blower motor resistor will need to be replaced. It s a fairly inexpensive part and is available at most car part stores.

Instructions

1

Locate the heater blower resistor in your vehicle. It is typically mounted under the dash near the blower motor. You may need to check your vehicles repair guide, or your car dealership to help determine the resistors location. Parts of the dash may need to be removed depending on resistor location.

2

Remove the wire connector from the blower motor resistor by lifting the tab on the connector and gently pulling the connector off the resistor. This may require working the connector back and forth a few times to free it from the resistor.

3

Remove the two screws holding the resistor in place. These may be screws or small bolts depending on your vehicle. The resistor should now be able to be removed.

4

Position the new resistor in place, and secure it with the two screws. Reconnect the wire connector by firmly pressing it onto the resistor. Replace and dash parts that were previously removed.

Nothing can be more frustrating than a broken-off bolt on your vehicles exhaust manifold. Not only is this putting stress on the rest of the attaching bolts for the manifold and the manifold itself, dangerous carbon monoxide could be escaping from the manifold and working its way into the passenger compartment. It is very important that you correct a broken exhaust manifold bolt from a mechanical as well as a safety standpoint.

Instructions

1

Use penetrating fluid on all of the exhaust manifold bolts, including the broken one. Let the penetrating fluid work in for several hours.

2

Loosen the remaining exhaust manifold bolts. Give the bolts another dose of penetrating fluid if one or more bolts still will not budge. Allow the fluid to soak in for an hour or so. Apply some heat with a propane torch if you still have any stuck bolts. Concentrate the heat onto the center of the stubborn bolt until it is red hot. Allow the bolt to cool then loosen and remove it.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold to reach the broken bolt. Try using vise grips or an easy-out tool to twist the bolt out if part of the bolt is protruding from the engine block. Drill the bolt out if it is broken off flush with the engine block. Use a drill bit the same diameter as one of the exhaust manifold bolts without the threads.

4

Run a tap into the hole that is the same size as the exhaust manifold bolts to clean out any remaining remnants of the broken piece. Tap the remaining manifold bolt holes while you are at it to ensure the bolts will thread back in smoothly.

5

Replace the broken bolt with one of the same size and strength as the original. Take one of the good bolts to an auto parts or hardware store to make sure you get the correct replacement. Clean up the rust on the threads of the original bolts that you are going to reuse. Use a wire brush or a wire wheel installed on a bench grinder for this task.

6

Scrape off any remaining gasket material from the engine block and the exhaust manifold mounting surfaces with a gasket scraper or a putty knife. Install a new exhaust manifold gasket between the exhaust manifold and the engine block. Run in the manifold bolts finger tight. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench. Find the torque specifications for your specific model in a shop manual or from your car dealers service department.

7

Start your vehicle and check for exhaust leaks.

A tire changing machine can help you mount and dismount car tires from wheels. There are several different types of tire changing machines available, including one designed to change the tires of motorcycle wheels and one that is designed to change heavy duty tires such as those found on big rig 16-wheel cargo trucks and off-road farming equipment. Most tire changing machines also include auxiliary systems that allow you to inflate new tires, preparing them for use on the road.

Instructions

1

Remove the core of the wheels valve with a valve core remover.

2

Wedge the bead breaking blade between the inside of the tire and the rim of the wheel, and then set the blade into position.

3

Press the bead breaker pedal of the tire machine with your foot to break the bead, i.e., the edge of the tire that sits on the wheel.

4

Place the wheel on top of the clamps, while ensuring that the clamps are set in the outer configuration. Press the wheel clamp jaw pedal with your foot.

5

Move the mount/demount head onto the rim of the wheel, and then pull the vertical bar lock lever.

6

Insert a tire iron between the inside of the tire and the dismount head, and then use it to pull the inside of the tire over the dismount head.

7

Press the rotation pedal with your foot, and then lift the tire to dismount the backside.

8

Pull the backside of the tire over the dismount head with the tire iron. Press the rotation pedal with your foot.

9

Rub tire lube inside the new tire, and then place the tire on top of the wheel.

10

Lower the mounting head between the backside of the tire and the rim of the wheel. Press the rotation pedal with your foot.

11

Attach the inflation hose to the valve stem and press the inflation pedal all the way down with your foot to initiate the bead blaster. Once the bead is fully seated, partially press the inflation pedal to inflate the tire.