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Stray rocks flying up from the road can easily chip the paint on a car. Ignoring rock chips leaves you more than the unsightly nicks; the chipped areas can get bigger and start to rust, too, leading to greater problems down the road. Fixing the chips is, however, a task that is neither onerous nor exceedingly time consuming. The sooner you fix the chips, the better your car will look and the more protected from rust it will be.

Instructions

1

Clean off the area of the car that has the rock chips in it. Use soap and water to remove debris. Allow time for the car to dry.

2

Sand down the chipped area with sand paper that is 1500- to 2000-grit. This will help to remove any loose paint from the chipped area. It will also help the paint to adhere to the area.

3

Wipe off the sanded area with a damp, lint-free cloth. Using the lint-free cloth will help to make sure that no threads or cloth get stuck in the chipped area.

4

Apply paint that matches your car color. Paint stores can match the color using a small chip, or you can call your car manufacturer to find out what colors were used on your car in the year that it was produced. Paint the chip and paint the area around the chip as well. Allow time to dry between coats before applying another coat. Three to four coats is typically sufficient.

5

Sand down the area. Use sandpaper to get the paint in the chipped area level with the rest of the car surface. Avoid sanding any area to which you have not applied paint, as those areas do not have the extra paint applied that you need to sand down.

6

Apply rubbing compound and buff the area with a soft rag. This will help the paint to blend in better and have a polish to it.

7

Apply wax or polish to protect the new paint.

Car key remotes are helpful because they allow you to lock and unlock your vehicles doors and trunk from afar. They also eliminate the need to locate that tiny little key slot on your car when youre parked in a dark driveway or in the rain. It can be annoying when your car remote breaks, but it is an easy fix.

Instructions

1

Call your car dealership. All car manufacturers feature links on their websites, where you can input your ZIP code to search for the dealer nearest you.

2

Ask to speak to someone in the maintenance department. Explain in detail the issues you are having with your car remote. Sometimes the issue is one that is easily fixable and the mechanic can talk you through the process of fixing it over the phone. If its not, youll need to take the remote to the dealership.

3

Give the remote to a mechanic and ask whether you should wait in the reception area or come back later for the remote.

Side post battery terminals are common in some car models, such as General Motors. When corrosion builds up on one or both of the terminals, it can cause interference in the flow of electricity to the vehicle. The result will be a car that wont start. You can prevent this from happening with the simple repair of removing the corrosion from the battery terminal post. Always be sure to follow any additional instructions provided by your vehicles manufacturer.

Instructions

1

Put on the safety glasses and gloves.

2

Unscrew the battery cable clamps from the side battery posts terminal with the adjustable socket wrench. Start with the negative battery cable first, then the positive battery cable. Secure the cables out of the way so they will not flop back and come into contact with the terminal posts.

3

Apply the detergent or a paste made from baking soda and water to each battery terminal post. Scrub with the wire brush to remove corrosion.

4

Rinse with water, taking care not to get any water in the battery vents. Dry thoroughly with a clean, lint-free cloth.

5

Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to each of the side battery terminal posts.

6

Reattach the positive cable to the positive post, first with your hand and then with the socket wrench. Repeat to reattach the negative cable to the negative post.

Small engine repair includes work on boats, motorcycles, lawn mowers, dirt bikes and all-terrain vehicles. When an engine needs repair, mechanics need specialized tools. The type of tools required depend on the size of the engine and the type of repair. Most repairs require the same basic tools every small-engine repair mechanic should have access to.

Hand Tools

Hand tools are the most commonly used for small engine repairs. Because they are smaller, portable and convenient to use, they are a staple of any mechanics tool supply. Hand tools are especially essential for removing or securing parts in small, tight spaces of an engine. The most commonly used hand tools are wrenches, pliers and screwdrivers.

Power Tools

More complicated repairs might require the use of power tools, such as drills, grinders and electric screwdrivers. Drills and grinders are used to make adjustments to parts for better fit, and electric screwdrivers help remove and secure nuts and bolts more quickly.

Diagnostic Tools

Because engine problems must be diagnosed before repairs can begin, diagnostic tools are important. Diagnostic tools range from compact, small devices to large, sophisticated, stationary equipment. Repairing smaller engines might require the use of both; however, compact, portable devices are more beneficial for mechanics who travel. Smaller diagnostic devices include tools used for detecting bad engine parts and tuning engines, such as compression gauges, ammeters, voltmeters and computerized engine analyzers.

Other Tools

Some repairs require the use of a mechanical jack used for heavy lifting. Jacks are especially important for accessing parts of the engine that extend underneath a vehicle. Small mechanical jacks are portable and compact, whereas large hydraulic jacks are stabilized and best used in a shop atmosphere. Also, safety is an issue in regard to engine repair, especially when power tools or devices with electric current are in use. For this reason, mechanics should always have safety goggles and work gloves nearby.

Repairing a rusted or cracked truck frame professionally is a desirable skill, both for those who work on big rigs and for do-it-yourselfers restoring older classic trucks or fixing their own trucks to make sure they pass inspection. Whatever the reason, there are a number of steps to performing a professional truck frame repair that you should follow.

Removing Accessory Pieces From the Frame

The first step to professional truck frame repair is to remove any unnecessary pieces of metal, mounting brackets, or other items from the frame. This is important not only so you dont damage these pieces while you are performing the frame repair, but also so that you can check them for damage or other problems while off the vehicle. Make caul notes of what you have removed and where it goes so that youll be able to reassemble everything.

Sandblasting

A key step in successful truck frame repair is to sandblast everything. Sandblasting is an abrasive process that allows for complete removal of rust, old paint and dirt from the metal, so that you can caully inspect the truck frame for hairline cracks or weaknesses. Mark any areas that you may need to repair or replace completely before continuing.

Remove Damaged Areas

Remove any metal areas that are damaged, cracked, or rusted through. By using either a cutting torch, plasma arc cutter, grinder or similar tool, you can get rid of these areas and begin to template and replace them with fresh metal.

Traveling in an recreational vehicle (RV) is a fun and enjoyable way to see the country. RVs are stocked with everything you need to live on the road; as such, they have toilets and showers, beds and furniture, rigerators, stoves and, yes, even the proverbial kitchen sink. All these household items make an RV weigh a lot, which in turn places greater wear on an RVs suspension components. The suspension part that gets the most abuse is the coil spring, as it is constantly being torqued while the RV is in motion and under constant stress from the weight of the RV itself.

Instructions

1

Raise your RV with an RV jack. Do not use a normal car jack, as the greater weight of a RV can break a car jack. Lift the RV up until the wheel whose suspension you want to work on is no longer in contact with the ground and rotates freely. Once the wheel is in the air, if the RV suspension spring has broken in half or more, you can remove the pieces by hand, as the springs are normally held in place via the pressure of the RV on the spring itself. Use work gloves to remove the spring, as the spring may have ragged metal edges if it has broken.

2

Remove the RV wheel with a nut removal tool; your RV should have come with one. If you need additional torque, use a power tool with a nut-removal bit. Be caul when removing the wheel, as RV wheels can weigh substantially more than car wheels depending upon your RVs make and model.

3

Remove the brake pad assembly with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Some RVs may use a drum assembly; you still use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove it. Caully support the brake assembly when removing it, as its weight can rip off the brake lines. Just set the brake assembly on a stool, elevated, so that you do not have to go through the hassle of flushing the brake system and reattaching lines.

4

Remove the spring by pulling down on the control arm to its full extension and wedging a flat-head screwdriver between the suspension arm and the spring. Wiggle the coil off with back-and-forth rocking motions. Wear safety goggles in case the spring jumps off the control arm.

5

Replace the spring with a new spring by again pulling the control arm down to its fullest extension, with a flat-head screwdriver as a wedge. The spring will naturally push into place around the attachment point. Reattach the brake assembly, then wrench the wheel back on.

If your sunroof is leaking, there are steps you can take to attempt to repair the problem on your own. However, if these steps dont resolve the problem or if there is a different problem with your sunroof you should seek the assistance of a professional repair person. A stuck sunroof requires removing part of the headliner and a cracked sunroof requires removing the glass and replacing the seal. These are all jobs best left to a professional so that you dont cause additional leaks.

Instructions

1

Clean the closed sunroof with mild detergent and wipe clean with the cloth.

2

Open the sunroof fully. Locate the drain tubes in each of the four corners. Blow out each tube with the compressed air canister.

3

Pour a small amount of water down each drain tube. If any of the water backs up, you have a clog. Untwist the wire hanger and straighten it out so you have a long pipe or just use the wired pipe cleaner. Gently insert the wire into the drain tube opening and attempt to remove the clog. Do not force the wire and do not scrape the tubing.

4

Clean the trough in the sunroof tracks with the compressed air canister or the detergent and cloth.

5

Inspect the seal surrounding the sunroof tracks. If there are any cracks or if there is significant wear, take the car to a sunroof repair shop.

The heater motor resistor on a 1999 BMW Z3 2.5-liter roadster is integrated into heater motor itself. This resistor plugs into the front side of the motor assembly. The heater resistor is not repairable; it must be removed and replaced if it fails. This resistor allows the motor to spin at variable speeds, consequently allowing the ventilation system inside the roadster to blow hot or cold air at different speeds. A bad motor resistor will either allow too much or too little current in to the motor, severely limiting the variable fan speed function of the HVAC system.

Instructions

Removal

1

Pry off both wiper arm caps with a small flat-head screwdriver, then remove the wiper arm bolts with a ratchet and socket. Mark the position of the wiper arms in relation to the spindles with a small tube of white paint. Lift the wiper arm up so they are at a 90-degree angle to the windshield, then lift the arms off of the wiper spindle gears.

2

Disconnect the washer pump tubing from the air intake/heating grille. Open the hood, then pry out the plastic retaining clips on both ends of the air intake/heating grille with the flat-head screwdriver. Lift the air intake/heating grille up and away from the lower windshield area, detach the remaining washer pump hoses, and remove the grille completely.

3

Disconnect the wiper motors electrical harness connector. Remove the bolts holding the wiper motor and arm assembly to the inside cowl, using a ratchet and socket, then slide the entire assembly to the left in order to disengage it from the integrated hooks. Lift the assembly out of the vehicle and set it on the ground or on a workbench.

4

Disengage the clamps on the blower motor fan cover by pushing them to the left until the pop loose, then set the cover aside.

5

Locate the heater motor resistor, directly below the motor body in the center of the assembly. Pry the resistor out of the fan assembly with a flat-head screwdriver. Discard the old resistor.

6

Press the new resistor into the fan motor assembly until its fully-seated.

7

Reinstall the heater motor cover and re-fasten the covers retaining clamps.

8

Position the wiper motor and wiper arm assembly inside the cowl section and slide it to the right to engage the locking tabs. Reinstall the retaining bolts for the wiper motor and wiper arm assembly.

9

Connect the washer pump hose to the underside of the air intake/heating grille assembly. Position the assembly over the cowl area and connect the top washer pump hose to the air intake/heating assembly.

10

Reinstall the plastic retaining pins on the corners of the air intake/heating grille assembly and press them down until they are fully-seated. Reinstall the wiper arms into their original position and then reinstall the wiper arm retaining bolts. Reinstall the wiper arm caps and test both systems to ensure proper operation.

Continuous buildup of dust and debris such as dust, smoke and mineral deposits from rain water reduces the efficiency of the windshield wiper blades on your car. Poorly performing wiper blades create hazardous driving conditions when its raining, potentially leading to accidents or even death. Performing frequent wiper blade maintenance significantly improves the efficiency with which the wipers remove dust, debris and water from the windshield and saves the cost, frequency and hassle of purchasing and installing new windshield wiper blades.

Instructions

1

Pour 1 cup of rubbing alcohol into a measuring cup.

2

Soak 10 cotton balls in the alcohol until the cotton balls become saturated with alcohol.

3

Pull the windshield wipers away from the windshield to allow yourself easy access to the blades for cleaning.

4




Wipe one cotton ball along the entire length of the wiper blade. Discard each cotton ball after it is used. Repeat the process as many times as necessary until the liquid runs clear from the wiper blade.

5




Soak a soft linen cloth in a solution of 50 percent rubbing alcohol and 50 percent warm water. Wash the windshield surface from top to bottom to remove dust, dirt, oil and other grime from the windshield and improve the performance of the wipers.

The Infiniti Q45 is a Japanese-produced rear-wheel-drive automobile. In order to ensure operator safety and maximize the life of a car, all major repairs should be carried out by a qualified professional. The owners manual of the Infiniti Q45 includes several sections providing information on when repairs should be conducted by service professionals. For example, while punctured tires can be dealt with by the car operator, problems with the Infiniti Q45s complex airbag deployment system should be dealt with by a qualified professional.

Infiniti Q45

As of July 2011, the last model of the Infiniti Q45 was released in 2006. It features firm suspension tuning, a 4.5-liter V8 engine, an automatic transmission, 340 horsepower and 333 pound-feet of torque. The 2006 model featured active rear steering (which monitored vehicle speed and steering), 19-inch alloy wheels, a transmission with downshift rev-matching and a lane departure warning system.

Warning Lights

In many cases, the Infiniti Q45 tells drivers when certain features on the car need to be repaired through the use of warning lights. While some warning lights, such as the low-fuel warning light and the low tire pressure warning light, indicate problems that can be fixed by the driver, other warning lights indicate problems that must be attended to by a qualified professional. These include a seat belt warning light, an airbag warning light, a transmission warning light, a break warning light, a battery charge warning light and an engine oil pressure warning light, among others. If any of these lights come on, take your vehicle to a mechanic with the required knowledge.

Windshields

Windshields may be damaged in a variety of circumstances, such as a collision, an act of vandalism or stone being thrown up by other cars on the road. A cracked windshield is a significant safety hazard and must be replaced immediately by a qualified professional. In addition to the threat of shattering glass, a cracked windshield may also affect the deployment of the supplemental airbag system.

Airbags

The Infiniti Q45 owners manual contains a special section on repair procedures associated with its airbag system. If the airbag warning light comes on, the system may either need to be repaired or replaced. Due to the complexity of the system, the airbag system should only be checked by a certified mechanic. Anytime there is damage to the front or side of the vehicle, the airbag system should be inspected. Any time an airbag has been inflated, the airbag system should be replaced. When working under the hood or inside the vehicle, the ignition should always be in the "lock" position.

A Mercedes Benz Sprinter glow plug repair is a tricky endeavor but a necessary one particularly for owners in cold climates who want quick startups. The glow plugs are the diesel engines equivalent to spark plugs and an ignition system. Without properly working plugs, the Sprinter may not start. When one glow plug goes bad, odds are the rest of the plugs are going bad too. Save yourself some time and trouble by replacing all the plugs at the same time.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery as a safety precaution.

2

Remove the injector lines, the injectors and the injector pump. Below the injectors are the heat shields that will need replaced. Remove the heat shields.

3

Disconnect the buss bar. Beneath the buss bar, you will have access to the glow plugs. Use a socket or a box-end wrench to remove the glow plugs. Use the magnetic tool to pick up the plugs as the fit is tight and you may not be able to get your hands in to grab them.

4

Apply the Teflon paste on the new plugs and install them. The magnetic tool will help you get the plugs into place, then use wrenches to tighten. Make the plugs snug but not overly tight. If you use a torque wrench, aim at about 15 pounds of torque.

5

Replace the buss bar, then install the new heat shields. Replace the injector lines, injectors and injector pump. Use the anti-seize on the injectors to prevent future problems with disassembling. Tighten the injectors to about 55 pounds of torque.

6

Start the Sprinter and check for leaks. The engine may be hard to start the first time. Continue to crank the engine until it starts. Double-check for leaks.

Window defrosters operate by conducting small amounts of electricity along conductive strips taped to the window. You are left with a window that will not defrost fully when one of the strips fails. Total system failure implies that you blew a fuse, which is a 20 cent repair. However, a damaged strip requires locating the impacted area and repairing it. Repairing the defroster means repairing the grid or strips running along the window or reattaching the electrical connection on the side of the glass.

Instructions

Repairing the Grid

1

Test the grid (the thin metal strip running horizontally across your window). Turn the ignition to "ON" and turn on the rear defrost. Place one terminal of the multimeter (set to DC volts) on the grid at the center of the line and the other on the thick vertical strip to which the grid connects. The multimeter should read six volts when testing from the center of the grid line to the side. A reading of 12 volts indicates the damaged section is between the terminals.

2

Bring the terminals closer together. Monitor the reading as you do. Isolate the section of the grid that reads 12 volts. This section is your damaged area that needs to be repaired. Mark both sides of the damaged area with a grease pencil. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 with the remaining grids marking any damaged areas.

3

Transpose the marks to the exterior of the window. Trace the line with a straight edge and a grease pencil.

4

Clean the window thoroughly first with glass cleaner and paper towels and then with rubbing alcohol and paper towels.

5

Place strips of masking tape above and below the area to be repaired so that you have a straight line after painting it.

6

Paint the strip using the conductive paint from the grid repair kit. Shake the bottle vigorously and apply two coats. Wait five minutes before applying the second coat and two more minutes before removing the masking tape.

Repairing the Electrical Connection

7

Disconnect the electrical connection from the wiring harness.

8

Clean the area of the damaged electrical connection with window cleaner and then rubbing alcohol. Use a flat head screwdriver to smooth out any bumps or old glue spots before cleaning.

9

Place a few drops of the adhesive to the back of the electrical connection and firmly press into place. Hold the unit in place for a minute and release. Allow the section to set for 24 hours and reconnect the electrical harness.

Any broken window in a car can become a major frustration. Nobody wants to have to deal with the lack of security, unwanted objects flying inside your car, and noisy wind constantly blowing while you are driving. Rather than having to tape layers of plastic wrap over your broken window, or pay costly shop fees, you can replace the window with only a few tools.

Instructions

1

Remove the door trim panel. Use screwdriver and trim removal tool (or flat screwdriver) where appropriate to either unscrew pieces holding the trim on or pry them off where there are no screws. If your car has a manually operated window handle, use the trim removal tool to remove the handle. If your car has any electrical components located in the door trim, disconnect the electrical connectors as necessary to remove the trim. Remove the plastic water deflector that is between door and the trim panel.

2

Clean up any broken glass. Depending on how your old window broke, there may be pieces of broken glass inside your door. Use a broom or vacuum to remove these pieces of broken glass.

3

Remove the old window glass. Remove the window-to-channel nuts that are located at the bottom of the glass. You may have to lower the window glass to gain access to these nuts. Use the appropriate sized socket to remove the nuts. Place the nuts somewhere safe to avoid losing them. Remove the rubber sealing strip on the inside top of the door. Remove the old glass from the door by pulling it up and through where the rubber strip was.

4

Install the new window glass. Insert the new glass the same way that the old glass was removed. Put back on and tighten the window-to-channel nuts. Put back on the rubber seal that was removed. Put the door trim and any pieces that were removed with it, as well as the plastic water deflector, back on.

Automobiles require regular repairs and maintenance in order to run properly. The car make and model determines the price of each repair. Schedule maintenance and standard repairs with automotive specialty shops or certified technicians at the service department of car dealerships. Obtain a basic estimate of the work required for your vehicles common repairs, before agreeing to have the work performed.

Oil Change

Oil changes are part of common automobile maintenance. Manufacturers publish a recommended oil change schedule in the owners manual for each vehicle. Automobiles need the oil changed every three to four months or every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, depending on how hard the car is driven. Some newer models have a warning system informing the automobile owner the oil needs changing. Average oil changes cost up to $30 or more, at the time of publication, depending upon the type of vehicle. Foreign vehicles, such as Mercedes, cost in excess of $220 for an oil change.

Coolant System

The coolant system consists of the radiator, the water pump, the thermostat, the water and anti-freeze running through the radiator and into the engine. Coolant needs changing on a regular basis, similar to the oil change, as over time, the coolant breaks down. Flushing the fluids out of the radiator prevents overheating of the engine and keeps the proper amount of coolant in the system. The coolant requires flushing every 24,000 to 36,000 miles depending on the make and model of the car, according to the American Automobile Association. Expect to pay between $50 to $145, at the time of publication, for this common repair.

Tires

Tires take most of the punishment during driving. The friction from the road and debris wears the tires tread over time. Tire replacements run into the hundreds of dollars for each tire. A damaged tire from road debris is repaired by placing a patch on the damage. Rotating tires on a periodic basis prevents premature wear of the tires and is part of a regularly scheduled maintenance program. The Tire Manufacturers Association outlines the procedures for making repairs or patches to tires. Check with your local automotive shop, as some shops offer free tire rotation, if you purchased the original tires there.

Battery

Everyone has experienced a dead battery problem. Batteries have a life of approximately three to five years and require replacing instead of recharging. Battery cables require periodic cleaning and is a process easy for the car owner to perform. The cost of a new battery, at the time of publication, ranges from $45 to $90 or more depending on the type of battery and warranty. Most automobile service departments install and clean the battery cables as part of the battery purchase.

Tune-Up

Part of a common auto repair cost and something necessary for regularly scheduled maintenance is a tune-up. With the soaring price of gas, ensuring spark plugs are clean, gapped correctly and spark plug wires are in good shape, goes a long way to help ensure your miles per gallon stay up instead of dropping. Dirty plugs, cracked spark plug wires or a dirty air filter gobble up that costly fuel. Tune-ups, if you do them yourself, at the time of publication, cost from $35 and up, depending on the make and model of your car. Conducting regularly scheduled maintenance and performing common repairs keep small problems from becoming big ones.

According to Edmunds, the Toyota Camry has dominated the mid-size family sedan market since 1983. Recalls were not made until the late nineties, which the manufacturer quickly addressed. Wear that comes with age can be repaired with the right information.

Squealing Brakes

Toyota Camrys manufactured in 1997 have demonstrated brake noise problems. According to Yota Repairs contributing Toyota service manager, this problem was exacerbated by a fire at the Camry brake pad factory in Japan. To repair the problem, owners have to replace the back wheel cylinders and front brake pads, and turn the rotors.

Dysfunctional Ignition Key

Toyota Camrys made from 1988 to 1991 have ignition cylinders that were built at an angle that causes wear to the cylinder after repeated turning. If your car key will no longer turn, the ignition cylinder will have to be replaced.

Engine Start Malfunction

1987 through 1991 Toyota Camrys show partiality to weather conditions. When the weather is wet, these engines sometimes do not start. They function fine in dry weather. To correct this, Yota Repair recommends replacing the distributor cap, spark plug wires and ignition coil.

The side power mirror on a Chevy Tahoe can get damaged in small and large accidents alike. The good news is that you do not need to simply live with a damaged side power mirror. Order a new power mirror from your local dealership or auto body shop. You may also need to order auto paint for the mirror that matches your Tahoe. The replacement mirror can then be installed in your Tahoe in just a few hours.

Instructions

1

Find the screws on the inside of the Tahoe door panel. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws from the door panel. Pop the door panel out of place and set aside.

2

Remove the mirror trim with a door panel remover tool. Unscrew the three screws that are located beneath the mirror trim with a screwdriver. Place the screws somewhere safe.

3

Disconnect the cables in the mirror and the door. The cables should come apart easily. Remove the mirror from the door.

4

Slip the wiring for the Tahoe replacement mirror through the hole in the door. Screw the mirror into place with the screws from the old mirror. Connect the cable of the new mirror to the cable in the door. The cables should fit together nicely.

5

Replace the door panel. Screw it into place with the panel screws and a screwdriver. Push the mirror trim cover panel back into place.

Many vehicle owners dread paint scratches because they detract from a vehicles appearance. Scratches are caused by door dings in parking lots, flying rocks from passing vehicles, bumper scrapes and intentional acts of vandalism. Many scratches form when objects gouge a vehicles protective coating and base color. Exposure to the elements can eventually cause scratches to rust.



Repair automobile scratches promptly to restore a vehicles appearance and prevent structural damages. Although scratches are unavoidable, most of them are reparable with the right supplies.

Instructions

1

Mix two tablespoons of liquid dish detergent with one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Wash the scraped area of the vehicle with the soapy solution, using a microfiber cloth. Remove all dirt and grime from the scratch and surrounding paint.

2

Rinse the paint with water from a garden hose. Dry the paint thoroughly with a microfiber towel.

3

Wipe shoe polish over the scratch, using a microfiber applicator pad. Use a color of shoe polish that contrasts with the color of the vehicles paint, to better visualize the scratch. Apply enough shoe polish to fill the scratch.

4

Place ultra-fine 2,000-grit wet/dry sandpaper on a rubber sanding block. Fill a bowl with cold water and two drops of liquid dish detergent. Dip the sandpaper into the solution.

5

Sand the scratch with the sandpaper, using short, slow strokes at a 60-degree angle to the scratch. Apply light pressure on the sandpaper, until the shoe polish dissipates. Frequently dip the sandpaper into the solution, keeping it wet at all times.

6

Dry the sanded area thoroughly with a clean microfiber towel. Apply a generous amount of rubbing compound directly to the area. Buff the area, using an oscillating power buffer with a rubbing compound pad.

7

Wipe off the haze from the area with a terry cloth towel. Apply swirl mark eliminator compound directly to the area.

8

Remove the rubbing compound pad from the power buffer and replace it with a foam polishing compound pad. Buff the area with the power buffer and foam polishing compound pad to remove any remaining traces of the scratch.

9

Wipe the area thoroughly with a terry cloth towel to remove any remaining compound residue. Buff the area with car wax, using a clean microfiber cloth. Apply the car wax according to the manufacturers directions on the products label.

After years of constantly being opened and closed, the liftgate on a Jeep Cherokee will begin to wear out. The liftgate is supported by two hydraulic arms to keep the door in the air when opened. Occasionally these will begin to wear out causing the door to fall down. The locking mechanism on liftgates will often "dry out" and becoming stuck, preventing you from opening and closing the door. Both repairs should be done at the same time to ensure proper opening, closing and locking of the liftgate for years to come.

Instructions

1

Pull the rear seat release straps and move the rear seat forward. Climb inside of the rear cargo area. Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining screws from the lock assembly molding located at the bottom of the liftgate.

2

Lift the threaded latching bolt -- it has a green plastic tab located on its base -- by using a set of pliers. Pull until you hear the liftgate pop open. Slide the green plastic tab to the left, and it will snap off the latching bolt. Adjust the latching bolt to the position needed to freely open and close the liftgate. Replace the green plastic tab back onto the bolt. Spray all moving parts of the lock and latch assembly with the aerosol lubricant. Wipe clean with a shop towel. Replace the liftgate trim, and tighten bolts with screwdriver.

3

Open and fully extend the liftgate with a friend supporting it in the air. Using a screwdriver, remove the old support bolts from the liftgate and vehicle until the support arm comes free. Place the new support arm where the old support arm was removed from and insert support arm bolts to keep it in place. Use the screwdriver to tighten all support arm bolts. Lower the liftgate to ensure alignment, and adjust if needed.

Hydraulic bottle jacks are expensive to purchase and are an essential tool for every mechanic. When you need to lift a car, nothing else will do the job in the same way as will a bottle jack. When you have an issue with yours, it can be very frustrating since it often means the jack needs to be sent out for a costly repair. However, you may be able to fix a few of the common problems with your bottle jack yourself, without sending it out for repair.

Instructions

1

Compare the capacity of the jack to the weight of the vehicle you are lifting. The capacity of the jack is usually written either on the jack or on the documentation that came with it. The vehicle weight is usually on a plate on the drivers door pillar.

2

Extend the piston all the way by pumping it up or by opening the release valve and pulling it up. Watch the piston for binding and check it for dirt, grit or excess oil. There should only be a little oil on the piston. Once it is up, check the seal at the bottom to make sure it is not pinched or cut. If the seal needs to be replaced, it should only be done at an authorized repair facility.

3

Open the oil reservoir plug. This is the uppermost cap on the jack. The oil should be 1/4 inch below the opening. Top off the hydraulic fluid to get it there.

4

Bleed the jack. Open the release valve and pump the handle vigorously several times. Close the release valve, pump the jack to its full height and let it down again by opening the release valve. If the jack does not reach its full height, then repeat the process until it does. Wipe down the jack with a cloth before bleeding and examine it afterward for evidence of any leaks.

5

Lift the load using the jack. If the jack still will not lift, then the problem is likely to be the pump. Pump replacement procedures vary by jack and are best carried out at a certified repair facility.

Historically, aluminum used in vehicle bodies has been around a long time. The hood of the Model T Ford was made of aluminum and 1930s vehicles also had aluminum parts. The main advantage to using aluminum instead of steel is the significantly lighter weight.

Difficulties

Repairing auto bodies with aluminum can be difficult, since oxygen contamination can ruin the process. Modern welding methods have made this problem easier to handle. Its best not to use serrated hammers during the body work, since the soft nature of aluminum could result in gouging.

TIG Welding

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welding emerged in 1950. Its considered the best type of welding for aluminum body work. TIG has superior weld arc control and doesnt produce sparks or messy spatter when the surface is clean. Without contaminants on the metal, there are no harmful fumes, either.

Techniques

A tricky thing about aluminum is it does not show color changes when heated to the melting point like steel does, so care must be taken to learn how to recognize this point. Cleanliness of the metal is important, since residue can contain oxygen and hydrogen that will result in poor welds.