Friday, February 28, 2014

How to Replace a Lumina Rearview Mirror

The Chevy Lumina rearview mirror is attached by a small metal button glued to the windshield and a small setscrew. Replacing the mirror becomes necessary when the silver lective paint starts to peel off the back of the glass. When this happens, it becomes difficult to see in the mirror, and it could cause your Lumina to fail a state inspection. Replacing the mirror requires an Allen wrench and very little auto-repair knowledge.

Instructions

    1

    Push the mirror upward on its base so the lective glass faces the roof of the Lumina. This makes it easier to get the Allen wrench into the setscrew on the base of the rear view mirror.

    2

    Remove the setscrew with a 9/16 Allen wrench by turning the wrench counterclockwise.

    3

    Slide the rearview mirror up to remove it from the metal button glued to the Luminas windshield. The metal button has a groove cut into each side of it that grips the base of the mirror to prevent it from falling to the floor.

    4

    Place the new rearview mirror onto the windshield, directly above the metal button. Slide the base of the mirror down onto the metal button until it seats in place.

    5

    Thread the setscrew into the base of the mirror with your fingers to avoid cross-threading it. Tighten the screw with the Allen wrench.

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How to Repair a Window Defroster

Window defrosters operate by conducting small amounts of electricity along conductive strips taped to the window. You are left with a window that will not defrost fully when one of the strips fails. Total system failure implies that you blew a fuse, which is a 20 cent repair. However, a damaged strip requires locating the impacted area and repairing it. Repairing the defroster means repairing the grid or strips running along the window or reattaching the electrical connection on the side of the glass.

Instructions

Repairing the Grid

    1

    Test the grid (the thin metal strip running horizontally across your window). Turn the ignition to "ON" and turn on the rear defrost. Place one terminal of the multimeter (set to DC volts) on the grid at the center of the line and the other on the thick vertical strip to which the grid connects. The multimeter should read six volts when testing from the center of the grid line to the side. A reading of 12 volts indicates the damaged section is between the terminals.

    2

    Bring the terminals closer together. Monitor the reading as you do. Isolate the section of the grid that reads 12 volts. This section is your damaged area that needs to be repaired. Mark both sides of the damaged area with a grease pencil. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 with the remaining grids marking any damaged areas.

    3

    Transpose the marks to the exterior of the window. Trace the line with a straight edge and a grease pencil.

    4

    Clean the window thoroughly first with glass cleaner and paper towels and then with rubbing alcohol and paper towels.

    5

    Place strips of masking tape above and below the area to be repaired so that you have a straight line after painting it.

    6

    Paint the strip using the conductive paint from the grid repair kit. Shake the bottle vigorously and apply two coats. Wait five minutes before applying the second coat and two more minutes before removing the masking tape.

Repairing the Electrical Connection

    7

    Disconnect the electrical connection from the wiring harness.

    8

    Clean the area of the damaged electrical connection with window cleaner and then rubbing alcohol. Use a flat head screwdriver to smooth out any bumps or old glue spots before cleaning.

    9

    Place a few drops of the adhesive to the back of the electrical connection and firmly press into place. Hold the unit in place for a minute and release. Allow the section to set for 24 hours and reconnect the electrical harness.

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Thursday, February 27, 2014

Installing a Side View Mirror Assembly

Installing a Side-View Mirror Assembly

The design of a newer mirror assembly allows for a moderate amount of impact before breaking. The assembly has springs that allow it to flex both forwards and backwards. If the impact is hard enough, the plastic assembly could crack. If this happens, pulling the old mirror off and replacing it with a new side-view mirror assembly is necessary.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the cover located inside the door, opposite the rear-view mirror. The cover does not have screws. Instead, it has a few plastic tabs that press into slots in the door. To remove the cover, pull it off with your fingers.

    2

    Locate the wiring harness behind the cover. Disconnect the mirror motor from the vehicle by lifting up on the locking tab in the center of the connector. With the lock lifted, pull the two ends of the connector apart.

    3

    Roll the window down so you can hold the mirror and remove the nuts that secure the mirror to the door at the same time.

    4

    Remove all but one of the nuts that secure the mirror to the door. The nuts are located behind the cover you removed. Usually, there are three nuts. Use a long-well socket and ratchet.

    5

    Hold the mirror against the door and remove the final nut. Do not let the mirror fall out of the door. You risk scratching the paint on the door with the threaded posts used to hold the mirror in place.

    6

    Pull the mirror out of the door. Again, be caul not to scratch the door.

    7

    Slide the new mirror on the door.

    8

    Hold the mirror and thread all of the nuts onto the threaded post with your fingers.

    9

    Tighten each bolt with the long-well socket and ratchet.

    10

    Reconnect the electrical harness by sliding the two connectors together and pushing the locking tab back into place.

    11

    Snap the cover back onto the inside of the door by pressing it in place with your hand

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Pontiac Engine Problems

Pontiac Engine Problems

Engine problems in certain Pontiac Vibe and Grand Prix vehicles led General Motors to conduct safety recalls in 2008, 2009 and 2010. Manufacturing defects in these Pontiac engines may result in potentially deadly traffic accidents or engine fires.

2010 Recall

    In November 2010, General Motors recalled certain 2005-through-2008 model year Pontiac Vibes for a manufacturing defect in the engine control module. The circuit board may crack, which may result in the engine not starting or the engine shutting off while the vehicle is in use.

2009 Recall

    In May 2009, General Motors recalled certain 1997-through-2003 model year Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles equipped with 3.8-liter V-6 naturally aspirated engines for a condition in which drops of engine oil may become deposited on the exhaust manifold through hard braking. An engine compartment fire could occur.

2008 Recall

    In April 2008, General Motors recalled certain 1997-through-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles equipped with 3.8-liter Supercharged V-6 engines over a defect that may cause an engine fire. Gasket temperatures in the cars front rocker covers may become high enough to cause early degradation of the front rocker cover gasket and oil seepage.

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Wednesday, February 26, 2014

How to Change the Tensioner Pulley on a Nissan Xterra

How to Change the Tensioner Pulley on a Nissan Xterra

Cars with a serpentine belt are equipped with a tensioner pulley, which puts pressure on the serpentine belt to hold it in place. If the serpentine belt comes loose due to a malfunctioning tensioner pulley, the belt will slip out of place and you could lose power to several systems, including the alternator, air conditioning, and power steering.

Instructions

    1

    Pull the emergency brake and chock the wheels of the car. This is an important safety step, as it prevents the car from rolling or moving while you are working on it.

    2

    Open the hood and determine the location of your serpentine belt and tensioner. This will be on the front of your engine block. If your car does not have a routing diagram for the serpentine belt on the underside of the hood, draw a diagram on a spare sheet of paper.

    3

    Place the head of the 3/8-inch drive ratchet in the hole of the tensioner pulley, and apply pressure counterclockwise to remove pressure from the serpentine belt, then remove the belt from around the tensioner pulley. There is no need to remove the belt from all of the pulleys that it services. Move the belt far enough from the tensioner so that you have ample room to work.

    4

    Determine what socket size you need to remove the tensioner and tensioner pulley. The bolt head that you need to loosen is the one located on the front of the tensioner, as opposed to the one on the tensioner pulley. Using the socket and ratchet, loosen and remove the bolt.

    5

    Remove the tensioner assembly from the engine and place it to the side.

    6

    Install the new assembly and replace and tighten the bolt until it is secure. Make sure that the bolt is tightened well, as engine vibration can cause a loose bolt to work itself loose.

    7

    Replace the serpentine belt around the tensioner pulley and er to the routing diagram to ensure that it remains in its proper position around the other pulleys. Insert the ratchet head into the hole on the front of the pulley and apply pressure in a counterclockwise direction to reapply pressure to the serpentine belt.

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Heavy Truck Front End Alignment Tools

Heavy Truck Front End Alignment Tools

Many auto repair shops are equipped to perform alignment adjustments on regular cars and trucks, but aligning the front ends of buses, RVs or heavy-duty trucks often requires the use of specialized tools. The types of tools used include primary tools such as alignment gauges and axle-correction tools, as well as an array of supplemental tools like wheel-rim straightening tools, wheel-weight tools and lug-nut-cover tools. Adjusting the alignment of a heavy vehicle is not something an amateur should attempt, especially since most shops rely on heavy-duty lifts or a pit to access the underside of vehicles.

Alignment Guages

    Because accurately measuring the angles of several aspects of a wheel, particularly the caster, camber and toe, is crucial to correcting the alignment, alignment gauges are perhaps the most important tool when aligning the front ends of heavy-duty vehicles. Companies such as Specialty Products Company, Josam and Bee Line sell manual, computerized and laser alignment gauges. Specialty Products Company offers manual heavy-duty gauges for around $200, as of December of 2010, while Bee Line offers portable and stand-alone computerized gauging systems that use laser measuring the company claims is accurate to 1/1000 of an inch. Bee Line must be contacted for pricing on its computerized systems, and these systems may require additional tools, accessories and training.

Axle Correction Tools

    Axle correction is the only way to adjust the camber to the ideal settings on heavy-duty vehicles such as semi tractors. Bee Line and Josam offer portable and pit-based axle-correction tools capable of applying up to 130 tons of pressure to the axle in order to adjust the camber. Axle-correction tools consist of a steel beam with hydraulic rams connected to it. The beam of the tool is fastened to the axle, and the hydraulic rams extend, applying tons of pressure and bending the axle.

Other Tools

    There are a wide array of other tools that can be necessary or beneficial to adjusting the alignment of a heavy-duty truck, depending on the vehicle and the types of adjusts being made. Turntables make it easier to move heavy-duty alignment systems from bay to bay or from location to location. Slip plates allow a wheel to move freely while it is being adjusted. A tandem axle caliper can be used to measure the distance between axles of a semi-tractor. A rim-straightening tool can be sued to manually straighten dents and bends in wheel flanges or rims.

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How to Replace the Catalytic Converter In a 2001 Alero

How to Replace the Catalytic Converter In a 2001 Alero

Oldsmobile, in an attempt to tap into the younger market in the late 1990s, released the compact and somewhat sporty Alero, which the maker based on the same platform as the Pontiac Grand Am. The Alero ended up being the last Oldsmobile to ever roll off an assembly line, as Olds closed up shop in mid-2004. The 2001 Alero came standard with a 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine that produces a respectable 150 horsepower. The catalytic converter on the Alero is part of the front pipe, so replacing the catalytic converter requires replacing the entire catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Park the Alero on a flat surface and allow it to sit until the engine is cool to the touch. Allow the vehicle to sit for an additional hour to allow the exhaust and catalytic converter to cool completely.

    2

    Lift the front of the Alero with a floor jack and slide jack stands under the vehicles subframe. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

    3

    Crawl under the center of the Alero and find the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly, the long pipe that the catalytic converter is a part of.

    4

    Find the oxygen sensor screwed into the pipe just behind the catalytic converter. Trace the sensors wiring up to the engine compartment until you find the harness that connects it to the Aleros wiring harness. From inside the engine compartment, unplug the sensors harness from the vehicles harness.

    5

    Position yourself back under the vehicle and remove the oxygen sensor from the pipe, using a ratchet and oxygen sensor socket. If the oxygen sensor is seized, spray its base with penetrating oil and allow the oil to sit for the amount of time specified by the oil manufacturer, then remove the sensor.

    6

    Slide two jack stands under the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly to support it. Remove the bolts securing the intermediate pipe -- the pipe behind the catalytic converter -- to the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly, using a ratchet and socket.

    7

    Unfasten the bolts securing the front of the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly to the exhaust manifold, using a ratchet and socket. Lower the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly onto the jack stands.

    8

    Pull the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly out front under the vehicle. Remove the old gaskets from the exhaust manifold flange and intermediate pipe flange, if needed. Clean the mating surface on each flange with a wire brush.

Installation

    9

    Crawl back under the Alero, bringing the new catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly along with you. Set the assembly on the jack stands in its mounting position.

    10

    Line up the bolt holes in the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assemblys flange with those in the exhaust manifolds flange. Slide a new gasket between the two flanges, aligning the bolt holes in the gasket with those in the flanges, then hand-thread the retaining bolts.

    11

    Align the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly rear flanges bolt holes with those on the intermediate pipes flange. Slide a new gasket between the flanges and align the bolt holes on the gasket with those in the flanges. Hand-tighten the retaining bolts.

    12

    Tighten the front catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly bolts to 33 foot-pounds and the rear catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly bolts to 25 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.

    13

    Apply a coat of anti-seize compound to the oxygen sensors threads and thread the sensor into the new catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly. Torque the oxygen sensor to 30 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and oxygen sensor socket.

    14

    Route the oxygen sensors wiring back toward the Aleros wiring harness in the engine compartment, then crawl out from under the vehicle. From inside the engine compartment, plug the oxygen sensors wiring harness to the Aleros harness.

    15

    Raise the vehicle off the jack stands and remove the stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

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Tuesday, February 25, 2014

How to Replace Lost Keys for a 2009 CBR 600RR

How to Replace Lost Keys for a 2009 CBR 600RR

Not only can Honda cars and trucks be equipped with transponder key technologies, but so can motorcycles like the CBR 600RR. These keys, known as chip keys or ignition keys, can be programmed from the vehicle in just seconds and work exactly like the keys for your car. With this programming sequence, you will be done in just seconds and can replace up to three different keys to the system.

Instructions

    1

    Turn the key in the ignition to the "On" position, press the Lock button on the keyless remote and cycle the key back "Off."

    2

    Repeat the previous step three more times with your key, ending in the "On" position after the fourth time.

    3

    Wait for the lock to automatically sound after the fourth cycle and press the Lock or Unlock button on your remote again.

    4

    Turn the key back "Off" and remove the key to end the process.

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How to Program a Key for a 2005 Ford Ranger

The Ford Ranger is one of a fleet of Ford cars that makes use of ignition key technology. These keys can be programmed to sync with your engine and will forever be linked to your car.



So long as you have two pre-programmed keys, it is simple to create more keys that will work in your car. There is no limit to how many you can have.

Instructions

    1

    Step into your 2005 Ford Ranger with your two programmed keys and your blank.

    2

    Insert a programmed key into the ignition. Turn to "On" then to "Off" and then remove the key.

    3

    Insert your second key. Turn it to "On" then to "Off" and remove. This must be done within five seconds of the first key.

    4

    Insert the blank key into the ignition. Again, turn this to "On," hold for one second and then turn it to "Off." This must be done within 10 seconds of the first key. The security light will flash if the procedure has been successful.

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Monday, February 24, 2014

How to Repair the Rear Driver Side Window in a 2000 Malibu

How to Repair the Rear Driver-Side Window in a 2000 Malibu

Any broken window in a car can become a major frustration. Nobody wants to have to deal with the lack of security, unwanted objects flying inside your car, and noisy wind constantly blowing while you are driving. Rather than having to tape layers of plastic wrap over your broken window, or pay costly shop fees, you can replace the window with only a few tools.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the door trim panel. Use screwdriver and trim removal tool (or flat screwdriver) where appropriate to either unscrew pieces holding the trim on or pry them off where there are no screws. If your car has a manually operated window handle, use the trim removal tool to remove the handle. If your car has any electrical components located in the door trim, disconnect the electrical connectors as necessary to remove the trim. Remove the plastic water deflector that is between door and the trim panel.

    2

    Clean up any broken glass. Depending on how your old window broke, there may be pieces of broken glass inside your door. Use a broom or vacuum to remove these pieces of broken glass.

    3

    Remove the old window glass. Remove the window-to-channel nuts that are located at the bottom of the glass. You may have to lower the window glass to gain access to these nuts. Use the appropriate sized socket to remove the nuts. Place the nuts somewhere safe to avoid losing them. Remove the rubber sealing strip on the inside top of the door. Remove the old glass from the door by pulling it up and through where the rubber strip was.

    4

    Install the new window glass. Insert the new glass the same way that the old glass was removed. Put back on and tighten the window-to-channel nuts. Put back on the rubber seal that was removed. Put the door trim and any pieces that were removed with it, as well as the plastic water deflector, back on.

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Sunday, February 23, 2014

How to Remove the Plenum on a 2001 Ford Windstar

The air intake plenum is one of the components of a vehicles intake manifold system. It works with the air that is supplied with the fuel that combines in the combustion process to power the engine. The plenum is mounted on the Ford Windstars intake manifold; its exact position can vary depending on the engine type. It is connected to the throttle body, and you will need to remove the throttle body in order to remove the plenum.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Disconnect the vans negative battery cable, using a wrench on the black cables clamp nut, and then disconnect the electrical connectors to the throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve.

    2

    Unclamp and remove the outlet tube from the air cleaner assembly, loosening the clamps with a screwdriver. Disconnect the accelerator cables return spring and the end of the cruise control cable from the throttle lever, then unbolt and remove the cable bracket.

    3

    Remove the four mounting bolts from the throttle body, and remove the body. Discard the gasket.

    4

    Label and detach the vacuum lines from the plenum, EGR valve and fuel pressure regulator, and the EGR valve from the plenum. Remove the PVC vent hose from the plenum and the valve from the valve cover.

    5

    Unplug the spark plug wires from the front bank of the engine and lay them on the top of the firewall back.

    6

    Remove the bolts from the intake plenum with your wrench, starting with the bolts on each side and working your way to the middle bolts. Separate the plenum from the intake manifold.

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How to Cut Exhaust Pipe

How to Cut Exhaust Pipe

Cutting exhaust pipe is an important part of removing and installing an exhaust system on your vehicle. Power saws can cut exhaust tubing quickly, but they throw hot metal chips flying in the air while you are cutting. This can cause injury to your eyes and burn your skin. Chain pipe cutters use a chain with cutting wheels to cut through the thin wall of the exhaust tubing and create a burr-free square cut without throwing hot metal shavings around.

Instructions

    1

    Place the pipe wrap around the exhaust tubing and wrap it around the pipe. Make sure that the sides of the pipe wrap are even so the pipe wrap is square on the exhaust pipe.

    2

    Run the permanent marker along the edge of the pipe wrap to create a erence line for the cut you need to make around the exhaust pipe.

    3

    Remove the pipe wrap from the exhaust pipe and slide the chain of the chain exhaust pipe cutter around the exhaust pipe.

    4

    Pull the chain of the chain exhaust pipe cutter tightly to the exhaust pipe and hook the chain into the holding hook attached to the handle of the chain exhaust pipe cutter.

    5

    Apply cutting fluid to the cutting wheels of the chain exhaust pipe cutter and push the handle of the chain exhaust pipe cutter around the exhaust pipe.

    6

    Tighten the chain of the chain exhaust pipe cutter to apply additional pressure to the exhaust pipe and repeat step 6. Repeat the process until you cut through the exhaust pipe.

    7

    Wipe the surface of the cut exhaust pipe with a clean rag to remove excess cutting fluid from the exhaust pipe to complete the cutting process.

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Saturday, February 22, 2014

How to Remove Dust Covers From a Harley Fork

How to Remove Dust Covers From a Harley Fork

Harley-Davidson motorcycles come with dust covers on the fork of the front tire, which prevent dust and other unwanted materials from entering the fork. The stock dust cover is generally black rubber, but these are often replaced with fancier ones such as shiny aluminum. In order to replace the dust covers, or clean underneath them, the old ones need to be removed.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the small indent on the dust cover.

    2

    Cover the indent with tape. This will help keep the dust cover from being scratched or dented.

    3

    Insert the tip of a screwdriver into the indent and hold it in place.

    4

    Hammer the end of the screwdriver gently. This will cause the dust cover to fall off.

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How to Tune the Honda CB 750

How to Tune the Honda CB 750

The Honda CB750 was released in the US in January 1969 and almost instantly changed the motorcycling world forever. Featuring the first mass produced in-line four cylinder engine, hydraulic disc brakes, and weighing a mere 480 pounds, the CB 750 quickly became a class by itself. Production rose from an initial 25 units a day to over three thousand units a month at the height of production. To keep your Honda CB750 operating at peak performance, a comprehensive tune-up every 4,000 miles is recommended.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the air box under the fuel tank and next to the carburetors. Remove the two hold down screws and release the bottom of the air box. Remove the air cleaner element and throw it away. Install a new air cleaner elements into the air box. Fasten the bottom of the air box with the hold down screws.

    2

    Start the engine and bring it up to normal operating temperature. Shut down the engine. Loosen all four spark plug wires and remove the spark plugs. Examine the spark plugs for burned electrodes, raw gasoline, excessive carbon or other problems which may indicate an internal engine problem. If any plug indicates a problem with that cylinder, then that problem must be corrected first before any further tune-up can be done.

    3

    Connect the compression gauge to the number one cylinder. The number one cylinder is the one farthest to the left as you look at the motorcylcle while sitting on it. Press the starter button and turn the engine over for 4 to 7 seconds. Record the reading on the compression gauge.

    4

    Remove the compression gauge from the number one cylinder. Repeat Step 3 for each of the remaining cylinders. The actual readings are not as important as the difference between the cylinders. If the readings deviate more than 10 psi then there is a problem with the piston rings, valves or carbon build up.

    5

    Gap four new spark plugs to 0.24 to 0.28 using the spark plug gapping tool. Place a small drop of oil onto the spark plug threads and install the plugs into the cylinder head hand tight. Tighten the spark plugs and additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn with the spark plug wrench. Replace the spark plug wires. Over-tightening the spark plugs will destroy the plug gasket and may damage the machine threads in the spark plug hole.

    6

    Remove the ignition cover and connect a tachometer to the ignition lead. Connect the inductive timing light pick-up to the number one cylinder. Connect the timing light power leads to the battery. Start the engine and set the idle speed to 1,000 rpm.

    7

    Loosen the three screws at the outer edge of the timing base plate. Shine the timing light strobe into the window of the timing base. Rotate the points plate until the "1.4 F-1" mark lines up with the fixed pointer. Tighten the timing base plate screws securely when the timing has been adjusted correctly. Disconnect the timing light and tachometer. Replace the ignition cover.

    8

    Remove the seat of the motorcycle and turn off the fuel supply valve. Remove the side covers and the gas tank hold down bolt. Lift the tank up and to the rear to remove.

    9

    Remove the four vacuum plugs from the carburetors. Each carburetor has one vacuum plug. Connect the multi-port manometer by attaching the vacuum leads of the tool to the ports on the carburetors. Ensure that the lines are connected in order from one to four on the manometer.

    10

    Start the engine. Record the readings of each cylinder. The multi-port manometer will measure vacuum in "inches". If any cylinder deviates more than 2.4 inches from the others, then adjustment is required. The number 2 carburetor is not adjustable and will be used as a fixed erence for all other adjustments.

    11

    Locate the adjustment screw and lock nut between the number 1 and 2 carburetor. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjustment screw until number 1 reads less than 2.4 inches difference from the number 2 carburetor. Tighten the adjuster screw lock nut without changing the adjustment.

    12

    Place the fuel tank back on the motorcycle temporarily. Turn the fuel valve on and allow the gas to flow for at least 1 minute to ill the carburetor bowls. Remove the gas tank and set it aside.

    13

    Repeat Steps 10 to 12 for making adjustments to carburetors 3 and 4 if required.

    14

    Turn off the engine and disconnect the multi-port manometer. Replace the carburetor vacuum port plugs, gas tank, seat and side covers.

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Friday, February 21, 2014

How to Test a VTEC Solenoid

The VTEC solenoid transforms electrical energy into mechanical energy. Signs of a faulty solenoid include a loud screeching sound from the engine, a sluggish or slow engine and the appearance of the "Check Engine" light. You can test the solenoid if you suspect it isnt working properly. If its not in working condition, you must replace it.

Instructions

    1

    Turn the ignition to the "On" position.

    2

    Connect a 12-volt battery to the solenoid wire, and ground the housing. If the solenoid is in working condition, you should hear a clicking sound. If you do not hear a clicking sound, you should ensure a proper connection between the solenoid wire and the ECU.

    3

    Ensure a proper connection between the yellow solenoid wire and connector "A17" on ECU "A."

    4

    Drive the vehicle. If the engine seems sluggish or makes loud sounds, turn off the vehicle and replace the faulty solenoid.

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Common Auto Repair Costs

Common Auto Repair Costs

Automobiles require regular repairs and maintenance in order to run properly. The car make and model determines the price of each repair. Schedule maintenance and standard repairs with automotive specialty shops or certified technicians at the service department of car dealerships. Obtain a basic estimate of the work required for your vehicles common repairs, before agreeing to have the work performed.

Oil Change

    Oil changes are part of common automobile maintenance. Manufacturers publish a recommended oil change schedule in the owners manual for each vehicle. Automobiles need the oil changed every three to four months or every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, depending on how hard the car is driven. Some newer models have a warning system informing the automobile owner the oil needs changing. Average oil changes cost up to $30 or more, at the time of publication, depending upon the type of vehicle. Foreign vehicles, such as Mercedes, cost in excess of $220 for an oil change.

Coolant System

    The coolant system consists of the radiator, the water pump, the thermostat, the water and anti-freeze running through the radiator and into the engine. Coolant needs changing on a regular basis, similar to the oil change, as over time, the coolant breaks down. Flushing the fluids out of the radiator prevents overheating of the engine and keeps the proper amount of coolant in the system. The coolant requires flushing every 24,000 to 36,000 miles depending on the make and model of the car, according to the American Automobile Association. Expect to pay between $50 to $145, at the time of publication, for this common repair.

Tires

    Tires take most of the punishment during driving. The friction from the road and debris wears the tires tread over time. Tire replacements run into the hundreds of dollars for each tire. A damaged tire from road debris is repaired by placing a patch on the damage. Rotating tires on a periodic basis prevents premature wear of the tires and is part of a regularly scheduled maintenance program. The Tire Manufacturers Association outlines the procedures for making repairs or patches to tires. Check with your local automotive shop, as some shops offer free tire rotation, if you purchased the original tires there.

Battery

    Everyone has experienced a dead battery problem. Batteries have a life of approximately three to five years and require replacing instead of recharging. Battery cables require periodic cleaning and is a process easy for the car owner to perform. The cost of a new battery, at the time of publication, ranges from $45 to $90 or more depending on the type of battery and warranty. Most automobile service departments install and clean the battery cables as part of the battery purchase.

Tune-Up

    Part of a common auto repair cost and something necessary for regularly scheduled maintenance is a tune-up. With the soaring price of gas, ensuring spark plugs are clean, gapped correctly and spark plug wires are in good shape, goes a long way to help ensure your miles per gallon stay up instead of dropping. Dirty plugs, cracked spark plug wires or a dirty air filter gobble up that costly fuel. Tune-ups, if you do them yourself, at the time of publication, cost from $35 and up, depending on the make and model of your car. Conducting regularly scheduled maintenance and performing common repairs keep small problems from becoming big ones.

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Thursday, February 20, 2014

How to Detect Bad Struts in a 2005 Buick LaCrosse

As vehicles age, many components wear out, and struts are no exception to this rule. Each time that you drive your vehicle, the struts are moving up and down many times per second to absorb road vibrations. This constant movement, along with certain environmental factors, causes the struts to wear out. The most common symptom of bad struts is a noticeably rough ride, especially when going over bumps or uneven pavement. In addition to noticing the ride, there are other ways that you can detect bad struts in your vehicle.

Instructions

    1

    Test drive your vehicle on the side streets as well as the highway. Purposely drive over bumps, cracks, and uneven spots in the road and take note of the vehicles reaction to these irregularities. In a vehicle with bad struts, youll notice a harsh, jarring ride when going over the bad spots in the pavement. In a vehicle with good struts, the rebound will be smooth, controlled and feel tight, as opposed to sloppy, harsh, and loud.

    2

    Press down quickly on the vehicles bumper with two hands, and then let it up. The vehicle should lift back to its normal height without excessive rebound, or bouncing. If the vehicle bounces and reverberates, the struts are likely bad. This is because the struts are designed to minimize the rebound vibrations from the springs.

    3

    Look at the odometer and note the vehicles mileage. The performance of most vehicle struts greatly diminishes after about 60,000 miles. If youve got more mileage than that on your car and the struts are original, its a good time to replace them.

    4

    Inspect your tires for uneven wear. Faulty struts allow tires to wear unevenly, causing cupping. Cupping ers to the tires having intermittent, parallel worn spots across the tire, creating high and low spots on the tire.

    5

    Lift the vehicle with an automotive jack and then support it with jack stands. Place wheel chocks behind the opposing wheels. Shine a work light up under the wheel well and look at the strut cartridge or tube; it should be dry with no signs of fluid leakage. Most modern struts are gas charged and also contain hydraulic fluid. When struts age, their seals begin to leak this fluid. Once the fluid begins to leak, the strut is already ruined and its performance is dramatically decreased.

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How to Turn the Distributor on a 1985 Camaro 2 8 With a V 6 Engine

The distributor on the 1985 Chevrolet Camaro is the main component that the spark plugs receive their voltage from. The distributor also supplies the proper firing order to the spark plugs to keep the engine in time. The gears on the bottom of the distributor shaft are turned by the camshaft. As the camshaft turns the distributor shaft, the distributor shaft turns the rotor inside of the distributor cap. The rotor then turns inside of the distributor cap and supplies the spark plugs with the proper amount of voltage to keep the engine timed.

Instructions

    1

    Park the 1985 Chevrolet Camaro in a safe working area and open the hood. Shut the motor off and engage the parking brake.

    2

    Raise the hood and prop it in place. Locate the distributor cap near the back of the engine. All of the spark plug wires are attached to the top of the distributor cap.

    3

    Mark a straight line on the front side of the distributor cap with a marker. Also mark another straight line on the front side of the distributor cap base directly below the other line. This will help you remember the exact setting of the distributor before moving it.

    4

    Loosen the hold-down screws on the bottom side of the distributor with a Phillips-head screwdriver.

    5

    Grab the distributor with both hands and turn it clockwise to retract the timing. Turn the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Be sure to make short turns when turning the distributor. Once the distributor is timed to your liking, screw the hold-down screws back down tight with the Phillips-head screwdriver.

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Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Automotive Paints Coatings

Automotive Paints & Coatings

A professional automotive paint finish can provide the perfect final touch to a new or repaired car. Many motorists, however, overlook how the latest industry materials can also provide lasting vehicle protection

Primers

    Primers create a barrier between the bare metal on auto body panels and the final finished paintwork. In addition to preventing corrosion problems, a primer also helps to promote adhesion so that paint will stick to surface of a vehicle more effectively.

Paints

    Paint is applied directly over primer to provide a base color on a vehicle. Today, the automotive industry favors water-based products over two-pack acrylics because of the low polyisocyanate content, which makes it safer to use. Water-based color dries to a dull, flat finish and will not act as final covering, whereas acrylic systems dry to provide a shiny, hard protective finish.

Clear Coats

    Clear coats are applied over the top of water-based colors to provide a transparent and durable finish. As well as producing the final shine to a paint job, clear coats also dry to create a protective seal that isolates the base color from any risk of damage.

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How to Change the Timing Belt on a 2001 Four Cylinder Honda Accord

The Honda Accord is a mid-size car that has been in production since 1976. The 2001 model belongs to the sixth generation of this series, which includes Accords made from 1998 to 2002. The 2001 Honda Accord typically has a four-cylinder 2.3-liter engine with multi-point fuel injection. This engine uses a timing belt to keep the camshaft synchronized with the crankshaft. The procedure for replacing the timing belt requires you to set the crankshaft to the top dead center (TDC) position several times.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the valve cover and upper covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Remove any additional components needed to access the crankshaft. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the white mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the lower cover of for the timing belt. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

    2

    Remove the lower timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Fasten one of the mounting bolts for the lower timing cover to the adjuster arm of the timing belt tensioner. This will hold the timing belt adjuster in position.

    3

    Loosen the lock bolt and adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench, and push the tensioner away from the timing belt to relieve the tension on the timing belt. Tighten the adjuster nut on the timing belt, and pull the timing belt off its sprockets.

    4

    Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the pointer on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the oil pump. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

    5

    Mount the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner sprocket, water pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order. Loosen the adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench, then tighten it again to apply tension to the timing belt.

    6

    Install the lower timing belt cover with a socket wrench, and rotate the crankshaft sprocket five to six complete turns clockwise to seat the timing belt on the sprockets. Make sure the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket aligns with the timing mark on the lower timing cover. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

    7

    Turn the adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise by one turn. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to move the camshaft sprocket back by three teeth, and tighten the adjusting nut on the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks once again.

    8

    Install the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Connect all additional components you removed to access the crankshaft. Replace the valve cover.

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Tuesday, February 18, 2014

How to Reset a Dodge 2002 Computer

How to Reset a Dodge 2002 Computer

A 2002 Dodge generates trouble codes and warning lights on the instrument panel. When these lights are illuminated, your vehicle may require servicing. Most mechanics or dealerships will reset the computer for you after the servicing or repair, but not all. If you have warning or service lights still turned on your dash, then you need to reset the computer yourself. It only takes a few moments of your time and requires no special tools.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the fuse panel cover under the steering column. Pull down on it from the top using your fingers.

    2

    Look for the Electronic Control Unit fuse (ECU) on the fuse diagram, which can be found on the fuse panel cover. Also find the fuse pullers inside the panel.

    3

    Use the fuse pullers to remove the Electronic Control Unit fuse.

    4

    Put the key into the ignition and turn the vehicle on, but dont start the engine.

    5

    Wait five minutes and then put the ECU fuse back in place. The warning and service lights will flash several times on the instrument panel and then turn off. The computer is now reset.

    6

    Put the fuse pullers back in place, close up the fuse panel cover and turn off the vehicle.

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How to Remove a Grizzly 660 Yamaha Exhaust Spark Arrestor

The Yamaha Grizzly 660 comes from the factory equipped with a spark arrestor. The spark arrestor restricts the decibel output of the vehicle to 85 dB, while also suppressing any sparks or flame that may result in a fire. Unfortunately, the spark arrestor also limits the exhaust air flow and theore the horsepower of the vehicle. Removing the spark arrestor is often the first step to increasing the horsepower and improving the sound of the Grizzly 660. The job is simple and requires only one basic tool.

Instructions

    1

    Start the engine and let it idle for 45 seconds before turning it off. This will heat the pipe slightly, allowing you to unscrew the Allen bolts with ease.

    2

    Unscrew the three bolts on the tip of the exhaust canister with an Allen wrench.

    3

    Pull the exhaust tip out, using a pair of gloves to avoid any burns. The spark arrestor is attached to the exhaust tip and will slide out as one unit.

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Monday, February 17, 2014

King Quad 300 Oil Specs

King Quad 300 Oil Specs

The King Quad 300 is a popular "quad" off-road vehicle from Suzuki. It features a 280cc single cylinder, four-stroke engine and a five-speed manual transmission. It is 4-wheel and 2-wheel drive, depending on how you set it, and comes with dual hydraulic breaks. Like an four-stroke engine, it requires regular oil changes. You do not mix the oil with the gasoline on this quad.

Capacity

    The King Quad 300 holds 3500 ml or 3.7 quarts of oil. It will take slightly more, 100 ml more, if the oil filter is also changed.

Location

    The oil for the transmission and the transmission pull from the same well, which is accessed in front of the rear wheel on the right side.

Type

    Any weight motor oil will work with the King Quad 300. Typically you may want to consider a lighter weight oil in the summer months and a heavier oil in the winter.

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How to Replace Jeep Liberty Tail Lights

The tail lights on the Jeep Liberty are enclosed in a plastic assembly with the bulbs mounted inside. To access the bulbs, you must first remove the assembly from the Jeep, but you can remove it in a few minutes with basic hand tools. The bulbs used in the tail light are standard 3057 bulbs, available at any auto parts store. These bulbs have a dual filament so they operate both the brake and tail lights.

Instructions

    1

    Open the lift gate of your Jeep and locate the retaining screws along the inner edge of the tail light assembly. Remove the screws with a socket and ratchet and set them aside.

    2

    Separate the tail light assembly from the rear of the Jeep and locate the electrical connector on the rear of the assembly. Depress the locking tab and pull the connector away from the tail light back plate.

    3

    Remove the two screws that hold the back plate to the tail light assembly with a Phillips head screwdriver then separate the back plate from the tail light. Grasp the bulb and pull it straight out of the back plate. Discard it.

    4

    Install a new 3057 bulb into the back plate, pushing it in until it seats firmly in the socket. Install the back plate on the rear of the tail light assembly then install the two retaining screws and tighten them with the Phillips head screwdriver.

    5

    Position the tail light assembly on the rear of the Jeep, install the retaining screws and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Do not over-tighten these screws or you will crack the plastic assembly. Close the lift gate and test the light by turning on the head light switch.

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Sunday, February 16, 2014

What Is the Shift Solenoid

What Is the Shift Solenoid?

A shift solenoid is a component of a vehicles transmission system regulating the transmission fluid levels in a car.

Purpose

    A shift solenoid opens and closes the valves that allow hydraulic fluid to flow in and out of a transmission. It is computer-controlled and electronically activated. Its purpose is to allow the vehicles transmission system to function efficiently.

Description

    This computerized component of a car automatically controls the transmissions fluid levels, allowing the right amount of fluid to flow in and out of the transmission. The shift solenoid is located on the transmissions internal valve body or on the outside of the transmission case.

Details

    If a shift solenoid fails, most likely the vehicle will not be able to shift into low gears or overdrive. Typically when a shift solenoid fails, the car suddenly will not shift properly. They typically fail from corroded or loosely connected cables on the battery.

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How to Use a Tensioner on an Alternator Belt

How to Use a Tensioner on an Alternator Belt

A belt tensioner is a spring-loaded device on some engines that holds a specific amount of tension on the serpentine drive belt or accessory belt while the engine is in motion. Too much tension on the belt can stretch it, causing the belt to weaken, while too little tension can cause the belt to squeak and whine. The belt tensioner makes it relatively easy to remove the belt from your vehicle if you need to perform maintenance on any of the components the belt drives, such as the alternator.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood of your vehicle and locate the alternator and the belt that drives the alternator. Find the belt tensioner for the alternator belt.

    2

    Place the box-end of a wrench around the bolt on the belt tensioner. Choose a wrench that properly fits the bolts so it does not slip.

    3

    Pull the wrench counterclockwise to draw back the belt tensioner (compressing the spring) arm and release tension on the belt. Continue holding the belt tensioner and remove the belt.

    4

    Turn the belt tensioner clockwise slowly to return to its normal position (allowing the spring to relax).

    5

    Pull the belt tensioner arm counterclockwise to reinstall the belt. Route the belt along the pulleys following the belt-routing diagram for your vehicle. Check under your hood for the belt-routing diagram; consult your service manual if you are not able to find it.

    6

    Turn the belt tensioner clockwise slowly, with the belt rerouted along the appropriate path, allowing the tensioner arm to draw the belt taut.

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Saturday, February 15, 2014

Toyota Camry Repair Information

Toyota Camry Repair Information

According to Edmunds, the Toyota Camry has dominated the mid-size family sedan market since 1983. Recalls were not made until the late nineties, which the manufacturer quickly addressed. Wear that comes with age can be repaired with the right information.

Squealing Brakes

    Toyota Camrys manufactured in 1997 have demonstrated brake noise problems. According to Yota Repairs contributing Toyota service manager, this problem was exacerbated by a fire at the Camry brake pad factory in Japan. To repair the problem, owners have to replace the back wheel cylinders and front brake pads, and turn the rotors.

Dysfunctional Ignition Key

    Toyota Camrys made from 1988 to 1991 have ignition cylinders that were built at an angle that causes wear to the cylinder after repeated turning. If your car key will no longer turn, the ignition cylinder will have to be replaced.

Engine Start Malfunction

    1987 through 1991 Toyota Camrys show partiality to weather conditions. When the weather is wet, these engines sometimes do not start. They function fine in dry weather. To correct this, Yota Repair recommends replacing the distributor cap, spark plug wires and ignition coil.

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How to Install a Civic EK Sway Bar

How to Install a Civic EK Sway Bar

Its recommended that you have a sway bar on your Honda Civic EK while driving to prevent any damage to your suspension system. The car comes with one pre-installed, but you may choose to remove it and install a different model. You may also need to install a new bar if the old one is damaged in some way or has been removed for any reason.

Instructions

    1

    Jack up the car to allow you easy access underneath. Be sure to use jack stands for safety reasons.

    2

    Align the sway bar so the ends are on the designated posts and can be bolted down easily. The posts should fit into the pre-existing holes on the sway bar. The bar should be attached where the old one was removed, running parallel to the axel of the car, front or back, next to the suspension. If youre unsure of the location, consult your car manual.

    3

    Attach the sway bar to the frame of the car using the brackets to hold it in place. Tighten the bolts to the bracket.

    4

    Tighten the bolts on the ends of the sway bar to secure it further.

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Friday, February 14, 2014

The Description of a CV Joint

The Description of a CV Joint

CV stands for constant velocity. The CV joints in cars are mean to ensure that power is delivered evenly to the wheels at all times, no matter what position the steering is in or how the car is riding on its suspension. Front wheel drive cars have CV joints on each side of the front half-axles.

The Boot

    A CV joint on a car doesnt look like much. The actual joint where the motion occurs is enclosed in a rubber boot, a heavy, flexible rubber covering that encloses the entire joint. The boot serves two primary purposes. It constrains the grease that lubricates the joint that would otherwise drip or spin off the joint and keeps dirt that would make the joint sticky and ineffective out of the mechanism.

Ball Joints

    Two types of ball CV joints are available. Fixed ball joints have a core called a "race" where six ball bearings sit. Those bearings are enclosed in a covering called a "cage" that allows them to roll freely. When the joint needs to move, the balls roll in their tracks in the inner race, allowing for the perfect transfer of power from the driveshaft to the wheel. Plunging ball joints operate on a similar principle but allow for more extreme angles.

Tripod Joints

    Tripod joints are the other category of CV joints. Some car makers per tripod joints for the inner joints, while ball joints are used for the side of the axle that connects to the wheel. Instead of six points like a ball joint, a tripod joint uses three rolling points to provide its range of motion. These joints also move in and out based on the movement of the suspension.

Bearings

    Inside a ball CV joint is a series of ball bearings that are kept lubricated and moving freely by the grease in the boot. Dirt, moisture and dust obstruct smooth motion of the bearings, which allows the joint to transfer power from all of the angles it may be delivered from. Tripod CV joints have rollers instead of ball bearings. These rollers are small and cylindrical and require the same type of enclosed lubrication as ball bearings.

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1994 Ford E 150 Engine Specifications

The Ford E-150 is a no-frills cargo van with three doors often used by small businesses to deliver goods and sometimes people. The 1994 model year for this vehicle features a large fuel tank and a class-competitive engine that provides enough acceleration even when carrying heavy loads.

Engine

    The 1994 Ford E-150 is equipped with a 4.9-liter, overhead valve V6 engine. Peak horsepower for the vehicle is 150 at 3,400 rpm with maximum torque of 260 foot-pounds at 2,000 rpm. The engine also uses a 95-amp alternator and a 72-amp battery as part of its ignition system, according to the Cars website. Bore and stroke measure 4.00 inches by 3.98 inches.

Transmission and Fuel Economy

    The rear-wheel-drive E-150 uses a three-speed automatic transmission with electronic fuel induction. Total fuel tank capacity is 35 gallons. According to MSN Auto, estimated fuel economy for the 1994 E-150 is 14 miles per gallon in the city and 16 mpg on the highway. This is the best fuel economy for Fords line of vans for the model year.

Dimensions

    Exterior length of the 1994 E-150 is 221.8 inches with an exterior body width of 79.5 inches. The vehicles height is 80.7 inches and its wheelbase is 138 inches. Gross vehicle weight is 6,050 pounds with a maximum payload of 1,370 pounds. The E-150 has about 260 cubic feet of interior cargo space and a standard axle ratio of 3.54:1.

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Thursday, February 13, 2014

How to Reduce CO2 From Cars

How to Reduce CO2 From Cars

Carbon dioxide emissions from vehicles are responsible for a significant amount of toxic gas emissions that are released into the environment every year. Auto manufacturers have made significant improvements in reducing vehicle emissions. However, it is still up to car owners to make sure that their cars are emitting the least amount of CO2 gases possible.

Instructions

    1

    Take care of your car. Routine maintenance will both increase fuel economy and reduce CO2 emissions. Ensure the air filter and fuel filters on your car are changed regularly and that your tires are correctly inflated. This will improve your cars performance and reduce emissions in turn. The less fuel your vehicle consumes, the less emissions it will produce, so many fuel saving measures also help reduce emissions.

    2

    Use high quality fuel and low viscosity oil in your vehicles. The higher quality fuel burns more efficiently, reducing fuel consumption and CO2 emissions. Lower viscosity engine oil has been demonstrated to increase fuel mileage according to BP, which claims switching your car to a lower viscosity oil will also reduce CO2 emissions.

    3

    Car pool or take public transportation whenever possible. Combine trips and avoid unnecessary driving. Plan appointments and errands so that they are centrally located. Park your vehicle in one place and then walk to the various locations within the area rather than driving from parking lot to parking lot. If you can, walk or ride a bike instead of driving whenever possible.

    4

    Use alternative energy. Convert your vehicle to solar power or bio-diesel to reduce emissions and help the environment. Electric golf carts and scooters can provide a non-polluting transportation alternative as well.

    5

    Replace your car with a more fuel and CO2 efficient vehicle. Newer cars meet higher emissions standards. If you really want to make a big change to reduce your emissions, trade your car in for a high-fuel economy car such as a hybrid.

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How to Install a Cylinder Head on a BMW E28

How to Install a Cylinder Head on a BMW E28

The BMW E28 is one of the companys 5-Series line of cars. It was manufactured between 1981 and 1988, and came standard with a 24 valve cylinder head engine known as the S38. Like all vehicles, the E28 requires regular maintenance. If you find that one or more of your cylinder heads are beginning to wear out, it is advisable to replace them with new ones. If you dont like spending hundreds of dollars on a mechanics labor costs, it is possible to change the head yourself.

Instructions

    1

    Unscrew the exhaust pipes and remove them from the exhaust manifold.

    2

    Unscrew the coolant plug and drain the fluid into your oil pan.

    3

    Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables.

    4

    Unscrew the vacuum hose and remove it from the air cleaner along with the sensor.

    5

    Disconnect the diagnosis and radiator hoses and remove the fuel lines.

    6

    Pull off the plugs on the fuel connectors and disconnect the ignition coil.

    7

    Disconnect the vent hose.

    8

    Remove the nuts from the cylinder head cover with your wrench and set them aside. Remove the cylinder head cover.

    9

    Remove the 14 exposed bolts of the cylinder head, moving from the middle of the head outward.

    10

    Remove and replace the cylinder head.

    11

    Replace the cylinder head bolts, cylinder head cover, vent hose, ignition coil, fuel lines, diagnosis and radiator hoses, air cleaner sensor, vacuum hoses, throttle and cruise control cables, coolant plug, and exhaust pipes in the reverse order that you removed them. Refill your coolant reservoir with the fluid in your oil pan to complete the process.

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Carbon Fiber Exhaust Tips for the Mustang S351

Carbon Fiber Exhaust Tips for the Mustang S351

The Mustang S351 is part of the impressive line of models modified by Saleen, Incorporated, which specialize in providing ultra high-performance Mustangs for the general public. The modifications are a response to the huge number of performance cars coming from Europe and Asia, and enable the pony cars to run with the very best in the world.

Carbon Fiber Exhaust Tips

    Besides the usual engine and suspension tuning, carbon fiber exhaust tips will not only make your S351 Mustang look cool, but also will keep your exhausts looking good even after many miles of spirited driving. Exhaust tips are meant only for show and will very rarely affect or improve engine performance. Carbon fiber exhaust tips might be considered expensive compared to chrome or stainless steel tips, but the use of carbon fiber ensures that the tip will never discolor or stain due to high temperatures and exhaust gas corrosion.

Kinds of Muffler Tips

    There are a variety of muffler tips available for your S351 Mustang. The usual choice is chrome and provides beauty and luster to your setup. Chrome is both weather- and rust-resistant, and will last many years, provided that a modicum of care is applied to the material.

    Stainless steel is also corrosion resistant and provides the same amount of visual impact as chrome. The difference is in the shine, as chrome is more sparkly compared to stainless steel.

    Titanium exhaust tips are more expensive compared to stainless steel and chrome, but are extremely light and develop an attractive hue to their finish when used over time.

    Carbon fiber exhaust tips are also expensive, but require almost zero maintenance.

Installing Carbon Fiber Exhaust Tips

    The installation process will vary according to the type of carbon fiber exhaust tip that you purchase. There are designs that will need to be welded onto the muffler pipe itself, while others will come with a pipe clamp or screw-tight attachment. Follow the instructions as stated on the packaging of your exhaust tip.

Conclusion

    There are a lot of exhaust tip designs that you can choose from. If you happen to have carbon fiber body panels installed on your Mustang S351, then carbon fiber exhaust tips will complete the overall look of your car. Remember that installing an expensive exhaust tip comes with added responsibilities. Never park your car in a dimly lit area because thieves will likely steal your precious titanium or carbon fiber exhaust tip.

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Tire Tube Stem Specs

Tire Tube Stem Specs

There are three different kinds of tire tube stems: the Schrader, Presta and Dunlop valve stems. The Schrader valve is used on almost all automobile tires, the Presta is used on many road and mountain bikes and the Dunlop is a pneumatic valve used on bike tires in Japan and other countries that is somewhat out of date.

Schrader Valve Stems

    A Schrader valve is most often made of brass with a threaded end. For tires, the stems are usually of a standard size, with an external thread of 7.7 millimeters and an internal thread of 5.30 millimeters. If you press the internal pin of the tire stem with a tire gauge, you can measure the internal pressure of the tire. A spring in the Schrader valve ensures that it stays closed.

Presta Valve Stems

    Unlike Schrader valves, Presta valves have no spring, which makes them easier to pump. Presta valves are narrower than Schrader valves at 6 millimeters in diameter. A nut on the top of the valve allows air to flow in or out of the tire stem. After inflating the tire, you must screw the nut back on so air doesnt leak out.

Dunlop Valve Stems

    The bottom of the Dunlop (or Woods) valve starts out at about the diameter of the Schrader valve and then decreases in diameter to about the size of the more narrow Presta valve (6 millimeters). You let air out of the Dunlop or valve by unscrewing the top ring on the valve stem.

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Tuesday, February 11, 2014

428 Motorcycle Chain Specs

428 Motorcycle Chain Specs

Motorcycles use chains to move power from the transmission to the wheels. Roller chains have two types of links. The inner link had two plates held together by two pins with sleeves covering the pins. Two rollers ride the bushings and touch the sprocket of the rear wheel. The outer link is simply a connector plate holding two inner links together. The 428 chain keeps power flowing on modern motorcycles and motorcycle-based small vehicles, such as ATVs.

Dimensions of the Links

    The inside width is the distance between the inside plates. Inside width of the 428 measures 7.95 mm. Pitch is the distance between the centers of the two inner link pins and is 12.700 mm on the 428. The roller diameter for the 428 is 8.51 mm. The pins inside the sleeves inside the rollers of the 428 are 4.45 mm thick and 16.7 mm long. The plates holding the inner links together are 1.60 mm thick.

The Strength of the Chain

    The American National Standards Institute tested the 428 chain for tensile strength and found that it takes a weight of 3,125 pounds to break it. ANSI recommends that the load on the 428 chain never exceed 810 pounds in continuous use.

The Weight of the Chain

    The 428 chain weighs 71 kg per meter of chain.

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The Removal of a Belt Driven Fan on a 1999 Dodge Dakota

Removing the mechanical fan from the front of the engine in your Dodge Dakota requires a specific wrench. The spanner wrench is available from tool dealers and through the Dodge dealerships parts department, though it can be expensive. Many auto parts stores rent these wrenches as well as stocking a new fan assembly for your Dakota. The fan assembly threads onto the water pump hub, and does not require removal of the drive belt to remove.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood and locate the negative battery cable. Follow it to the battery and remove the retaining bolt securing the cable end to the battery terminal with a wrench. Lift the cable off the battery and set it aside.

    2

    Locate the bolts on the top section of the radiator shroud that secure the upper and lower halves. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet, then lift the top section of the shroud off the bottom section and remove it from the engine compartment.

    3

    Place a spanner wrench with a pin adapter on it between the fan and water pump hub. There are four holes in the face of the water pump hub. Slide the two pins on the spanner into two of these holes.

    4

    Grasp the fan blade with the opposite hand and spin the blades clockwise while holding the water pump hub with the spanner. The threads are right-handed, so turning it clockwise will loosen the blades.

    5

    Caully lift the fan assembly out of the engine compartment and store it in an upright position so the silicone gel inside does not leak out. Remove the spanner from the engine compartment.

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Monday, February 10, 2014

Mechanical Injector Removal

Mechanical Injector Removal

When fuel injectors are clean, they can enhance the performance of your vehicles engine. On the other hand, even injectors with minor clogging can have just the opposite effect. Although you can clean a fuel injector while its on the vehicle, you may want to remove it for a more thorough cleaning.

Significance

    Sometimes fuel injectors are so clogged that a simple on-car cleaning might not be enough to fix the problem. Also, some injector cleaners are strong enough to damage other parts during on-car cleaning, such as the fuel pump, which consists partly of rubber. The only alternative is to remove the fuel injectors so that you can have them cleaned professionally.

Removal

    Removing the injectors from a vehicle requires special equipment that costs as much as $6,000. Some vehicle models require much more work than others to remove the injectors from the car. The average price you can expect to pay per injector is about $30 as of 2011.

Time Frame

    Many auto shops have cleaning machines that are equipped with reverse-flush features that work well for flushing out injectors. Once the fuel injectors have successfully been removed from the vehicle, expect the cleaning to take a little over half an hour.

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2010 Equinox Alignment Specifications

Chevy introduced the Equinox in 2005. According to Edmunds.com, the Equinox is one of a growing number of "plus-sized small crossover SUVs" that combine the style and utility of a traditional SUV while providing better driving dynamics and fuel economy. The Equinox is currently in its second generation, after Chevy redesigned it for the 2010 model year.

General Alignment Information

    The 2010 Chevy Equinox came in several all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive trims. However, the alignment specs were the same for all trims. The caster, camber and toe-in were adjustable on the front end, while the camber, toe-in and thrust angle were adjustable on the rear end. The caster is the angle of an imaginary line drawn through the upper steering pivot and the lower steering pivot of a wheel when measured from the side of a vehicle. The camber is the way that a wheel tilts when looked at from the front of the vehicle. The toe-in of a wheel is the angle the wheels point in relation to the center line of the vehicle. The thrust angle is the angle of the rear wheels in relation to the center line of the vehicle.

Front End Alignment

    The caster on the front end of the 2010 Chevy Equinox should be set between +0.75 and +2.45 degrees, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The camber angle on the front end should be set between -0.4 degree and +0.75 degree, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The ideal setting for the front toe-in is +0.2 degree.

Rear End Alignment

    The camber angle on the rear end of the 2010 Chevy Equinox should be set between -0.5 degree and +0.75 degree. The caster is not adjustable on the rear end. The rear toe-in can range from +0.1 degree to +0.2 degree. The thrust angle should be 0.2 degree. Correcting the toe-in on the front and rear ends should automatically correct the thrust angle and center the steering.

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Sunday, February 9, 2014

2002 Mustang Front Hub Torque Specs

2002 Mustang Front Hub Torque Specs

First introduced in 1964, Mustang is one of the most successful Ford car models. The fourth generation of Ford Mustang is powered by various types of engines and featured sharper contours, larger wheel arches and new interior design.

Important Note

    Suspension fasteners are important as they affect performance of the main components and systems of the suspension. Major service expenses can be expected if they fail. Only new parts with the same part number must be installed, if service or replacement is required. During reassembly, to ensure correct retention of these parts, only specified torque values must be used.

Torque Specification

    Front wheel hub and bearing retainer nuts must be tightened using 258 foot-pounds of torque.

Part Replacement

    The original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part number for the front hub and bearing is 1R3Z1104BA and the manufacturers recommended price is $145 (as of February 2011).

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How to Remove the Overhead Console on a 2003 Dodge Ram

Removal of the overhead console in your Dodge Ram will allow access to the electronics and light assemblies mounted in it. The console comes out without much effort and its removal does not require any special tools. There are several wiring connections under the console to disconnect before removal of the console, but they are readily accessible once the mounting hardware is removed. If your vehicles console is damaged, replacements are available from the dealerships parts department.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery by removing the retaining bolt on the cable end with a wrench, then isolate the cable end from the battery. Move inside the truck and open the sunglasses storage bin.

    2

    Locate the screws inside the storage bin and remove them with a Phillips head screwdriver. Set the screws aside for later use.

    3

    Grasp the sides of the console with your hands, then pull straight down on it until the two clips under the console release. The console may come off suddenly, so beware that you are not directly under it.

    4

    Slide your hand in under the console and disconnect the EVIC, CMTC and lamp connections from the back of the console. Lower the console and remove it from the truck.

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Saturday, February 8, 2014

How to Disable the Alarm on a Chrysler Concord

How to Disable the Alarm on a Chrysler Concord

The Chrysler Concord comes with an alarm installed on the car. If you want to install a different car alarm on your Concord, or you are looking to remove the alarm all together, you will need to disable the alarm beforehand. Disabling the car alarm in your Chrysler Concord is not a very difficult task. You can disable the alarm without the need of an experienced installer, in just a couple of minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Unlock the doors to your Chrysler Concord and get into the drivers seat. Put your key into the ignition and then turn the key to the "Acc" position to engage the alarm.

    2

    Take the dashboard panels off around the ignition cylinder on the drivers side of the Concord by popping them off with your fingers.

    3

    Look for the alarm transmitter. This will be a small black box with a switch on it.

    4

    Press the "Valet Switch" on the transmitter. This will be labeled. Wait until the LED light turns off on the transmitter.

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How to Mount Low Profile Auto Tires

How to Mount Low-Profile Auto Tires

Many cars today are designed with low-profile tires, which improve handling and support on the roads. Low-profile tires can prove difficult to install because their sidewalls sit so low to the ground. The sidewall doesnt offer much flexibility, which makes for a hard removal. You can change these low profile tires without much hassle using special equipment. Most newer rim clamp tire machines have the functionality to mount low-profile tires.

Instructions

    1

    Put on eye protection and gloves.

    2

    Familiarize yourself with the rim clamp tire machine. You should find it quite self-explanatory because every functioning pedal and lever has arrows and labels. Notice that it has a plate with clamps where the wheel will sit and that it has a bead breaker on the side. The machine has an installation arm and an inflation hose to inflate tires to the correct level of lbs. per square inch (psi). The rim clamp machine also has a pressure arm designed to push the tire below the drop center to make it easy to install a low-profile tire.

    3

    Lift the wheel up onto the plate, and press the pedal that locks the clamps to the wheel. Lift up your tire, and look at both of its sides. You will notice a directional arrow or a note if the tire has a side that should face outside. Look for instructions written on the sidewall of the tire.

    4

    Push the first bead of the tire onto the rim with force in a rocking motion. You should be able to simply push the first bead on the wheel by hand.

    5

    Swing the tire installation arm over, and position the tire between the head of the installer and at a slant onto the wheel. Press the pedal that will rotate the plate to move the tire onto the rim. Slide out the pressure arm, and use the lever to push the tire down and hold it under the drop center bead of the wheel while the plate turns and until youve installed the tire on the wheel.

    6

    Inflate the tire with an inflation hose by pushing it on the valve stem and pressing the inflation pedal. Look at the tire to find the proper inflation, and fill it to that number. Check the psi with your tire pressure gauge.

    7

    Press the pedal to release the clamps.

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Friday, February 7, 2014

Rebuilt Vs Remanufactured Transmission

Rebuilt Vs. Remanufactured Transmission

Rebuilt and remanufactured transmissions are readily available options for most vehicles. However, these terms mean something different, and knowing the differences can make a decision between the two easier.

Rebuilt

    A rebuilt transmission usually is one that has been taken apart, and those components that were damaged or not functioning properly have been replaced. Usually, this is the less expensive of the two options. In this case only damaged or faulty components are replaced. All other components are used again.

Remanufactured

    A remanufactured transmission is one where all vital components have been replaced, and only the cast parts, such as the outer shell, have been reused. These typically are more expensive, since more work has been done to the transmission. Also they tend to be more reliable, as they are nearly new.

The Warranty

    Often, the same warranty will be offered with both types of transmission, although that for the remanufactured unit may be slightly longer. This is because typically if anything that is the fault of the rebuilder or remanufacturing company is going to malfunction, it will do so relatively early in the warranty. However, the longer the warranty, the longer you do not have to worry about replacement cost.

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How to Replace a Passenger Mirror on a Kia

Kia uses plastic side view mirrors housed inside of a large shell on all of their late model vehicles. The method for replacement is generally the same for all models. The plastic shells have three threaded posts inserted into the side and those threaded posts extend through the door and attach via nuts. To replace the passenger mirror on your Kia, you have to locate and remove the nuts that secure the mirror to the door.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the mirror cover on the inside of the Kia door. Its located on the inside the door, directly across from the passenger mirror. To remove the cover, pull on it to release the plastic tabs that secure it to the door.

    2

    Locate the three nuts under the cover and remove them with a 10mm socket. To avoid dropping the mirror, hold it with one hand while you remove the nuts with the other. Be caul not to drop the nuts inside of the door. If you drop a nut, you must remove the door panel to retrieve it.

    3

    Pull the mirror out of the door. Slide the new mirror into the side of the door. The threaded posts can chip the paint. Take caution to prevent this.

    4

    Secure the mirror to the door with the original 10mm bolts. If the new mirror came with different bolts, use those bolts. They may have a different thread pattern or be a different size.

    5

    Place the cover back onto the Kia door and push it into place with your fingers. Sometimes you have to strike it with the palm of your hand to get it to snap into place.

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Thursday, February 6, 2014

How to Install a Brake Controller in an 03 Dodge Ram

A Dodge Ram is a full-size pickup truck that Chrysler has manufactured under its Dodge brand since 1981. The 2003 model belongs to the third generation of this series, which was in production from 2002 to 2008. The anti-lock braking system in a 2003 Dodge Ram has a brake controller known as a hydraulic control unit, or HCU. The HCU prevents the wheels from locking during an emergency stop by reducing the braking power to a wheel when it rotates more slowly than the other wheels.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the housing for the left front turn signal with a socket wrench and remove the extension panel under the housing. Detach the electrical connector for the horn and disconnect the horns access cover.

    2

    Disconnect the mounting screws for the windshield washer reservoir and pull the reservoir up. Detach the electrical connector and hose from the windshield washer pump. Disconnect the reservoir and remove it from the engine compartment.

    3

    Remove the cables from the battery with a socket wrench and disconnect the power distribution center in the engine compartment. Push the connectors for the electrical wiring harness together to detach it from the controller anti-lock brakes. Disconnect the brake lines from the HCU.

    4

    Disconnect the front mounting bolt for the HCU bracket through the access opening with a socket wrench. Disconnect the rear mounting bolt for the HCU bracket from the engine compartment. Pull the HCU assembly up slightly and detach it from its bracket.

    5

    Place the new HCU in its mounting bracket, and install the HCU assembly. Tighten the mounting bolts for the HCU bracket to 11 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the brake lines to the HCU and tighten its retaining nuts 115 inch-pounds. Attach the wiring harness for the controller anti-lock brakes and lock the connectors into place.

    6

    Install the reservoir for the windshield washer. Connect the motor and hose for the windshield washer pump. Fasten the mounting screws for the reservoir with a socket wrench.

    7

    Attach the battery cables and the power distribution center. Connect the electrical connector for the horn, and replace the horns access cover. Fasten the extension panel and housing for the left front turn signal.

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How to Replace an El Camino Oxygen Sensor

Because oxygen sensors monitor the fuel-to-air mix ratio, most cars that did not integrate catalytic converters in their exhaust systems did not have oxygen sensors. The sensor not only regulates the fuel/air ratio, it also transmits the information to the powertrain control module (PCM) via a voltage signal and makes compensatory adjustments. The fifth-generation El Camino is the only design of the vehicle that used a combined catalytic converter-oxygen sensor emission control system.

Instructions

    1

    Lift the El Camino onto a car lift and bring it up to a comfortable height to work at from underneath. Put on the safety glasses before getting under the vehicle.

    2

    Locate the catalytic converter near the center of the El Caminos undercarriage and follow it to the front Y-pipe for the oxygen sensor.

    3

    Follow the wire coming from the oxygen sensor to the nearby wire harness plug. Unplug the sensor wire from the harness plug.

    4

    Spray the exposed threads of the sensor with a generous amount of penetrating oil.

    5

    Place the wire through the closed end of a box-end wrench and place the wrench on the hexagon-shaped base of the sensor. Turn the sensor counterclockwise to unthread it from the exhaust pipe. Remove the oxygen sensor. If necessary, apply heat to the exhaust pipe area and expand the metal of the pipe to help remove the sensor.

    6

    Apply a light amount of anti-seize compound on the threads of the replacement sensor. Do not let the compound come into contact with the sensors head.

    7

    Screw the sensor into the exhaust pipes porthole by hand and then snug it tightly with the wrench.

    8

    Plug the oxygen sensor wire back into the wire harness plug.

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Wednesday, February 5, 2014

How to Change a 2003 Duramax Injector

A Duramax engine is an eight-cylinder diesel engine that General Motors has manufactured since 2001. It appears in heavy Chevrolet trucks, such as the Silverado 2500HD. The most common 2003 Duramax engine has a displacement of 6.6 liters with electronic fuel injection. The fuel injectors are on top of the engine and deliver fuel to the engine in the correct quantity and sequence. Each cylinder of the engine has its own fuel injector.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. This ensures that you dont inadvertently start the engine. Disconnect the lower valve cover. Detach the fuel line from the fuel injectors and remove the bracket from the fuel injector.

    2

    Connect Special Tool J-29873 to the retainer bracket of the fuel injector. Attach a socket wrench to the special tool and pry the retainer bracket away from the fuel injector.

    3

    Detach the fuel injector from the injection socket. Remove the copper washer from the injection socket if it is not attached to the injector. Apply assembly grease to the copper washer and place it back into the injection socket.

    4

    Install the new fuel injector into the injection socket. Install the injector bracket and tighten its retainer bolt to 36 ft. pounds. with a torque wrench.

    5

    Attach the fuel line to the fuel injector and tighten its retaining bolts to 108 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the lower valve cover with a socket wrench. Connect the cables to the negative terminals of the batteries.

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How to Remove Spark Plug Wires From a 2000 Toyota Camry

Removing the spark plug wires from your 2000 Toyota Camry may be necessary to replace defective spark plug wires. The 2.2-liter engine uses four wires connected to the spark plugs on one end and one of two coils on the opposite end. The wires have specific lengths, so getting a direct replacement set of wires for your car from an auto parts store is going to make your life much easier. The wires will fit correctly, making for a smoother installation.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood of your Camry and locate the negative battery terminal. Loosen the clamp bolt on the negative battery cable end with a wrench and remove it from the battery terminal. Isolate the battery cable from the battery for safety while you work.

    2

    Locate the spark plug wires on the spark plugs. The plugs are on the front of the engine about halfway down the cylinder head.

    3

    Grasp the spark plug wire boot on the spark plug end of the wire and pull it straight off the plug while twisting it side to side to help loosen it from the plug. Follow the wire along its length and locate the boot at the ignition coil.

    4

    Grasp the boot on the coil end of the spark plug wire and pull it out of the coil. If you are installing new wires, now is the time to replace this one. Move to the next wire and repeat the process, continuing one wire at a time until you replace or remove all four wires.

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Tuesday, February 4, 2014

How to Remove a Catalytic Converter on a 1995 GMC 1500

Removing the catalytic converter from your GMC 1500 series pickup for replacement or to facilitate other repairs is very simple. The converter is located in the downstream exhaust pipe just behind the exhaust manifolds. On models with dual exhaust, there are two converters, one in each exhaust pipe. Replacement converters are available at most auto parts stores and through the dealer if yours need replacing.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the front of your truck off the ground with a jack and support it by placing a set of jack stands under the frame rails. Lower the jack, setting the truck securely on the stands then remove the jack from under the truck.

    2

    Slide under the truck and locate the catalytic converter in the exhaust system just down from the engine. One sits in each pipe, so you will need to complete the process twice if you are removing both converters.

    3

    Remove the retaining bolts from the rear-mounting flange where the converter and exhaust pipe meet with a wrench. Lower the exhaust pipe away from the rear of the converter and lay it off to one side.

    4

    Move to the front of the converter and remove the bolts from the front mounting flange with a wrench. Separate the converter from the front pipe and lower it out from under the truck.

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How to Decode the GM Engine Block

How to Decode the GM Engine Block

Every GM engine is stamped with an eight-digit code. When you translate this information, you can find out when and where the engine was made. In addition, the engine suffix can be cross-erenced to verify the year and body style of the vehicle the engine was built for. The engine code is different than the longer VIN number, which includes information on the model, body style and assembly plant.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the engine block code. This series of seven to eight digits begins with a letter and is stamped directly on the engine. Look behind the distributor on the passenger side of the block if it is a six- cylinder GM motor. On a small block GM V8, it is stamped in front of the cylinder head on the passenger side. The code is stamped above the timing chain cover on big block V8 engines.

    2

    Wipe any grease or dirt off the code to make sure you read each digit correctly. Check that you can see the entire engine block stamp.

    3

    Look at the first digit, which will be a capital letter. This letter ers to the plant that manufactured the engine. There are seven different GM plant codes: F for Flint, H for Hydramatic, K for St. Catherines, Ontario, M for GM of Mexico, S for Saginaw Service, T for Tonawanda and V for Flint.

    4

    Read the next four digits in the code, which will be all numbers. This ers to the date that the engine was cast. The first two numbers are the month, and the last two are the day. For example, if the numbers read 0107, then the engine was cast on January 7.

    5

    Look at the remaining portion of the code. This will be two or three digits, and could include both numerals and letters; typically it is three capital letters. Find your suffix in a GM engine code erence. For example, if your code is "CMP," then the erence indicates this is a 305 engine with 240 horsepower. It was built for a 1991 Pontiac Firebird and included the L98 automatic transmission and tuned port injection. If there is more than one entry for your suffix code, then use the engine block casting date code to identify the year of the engine and identify the correct suffix entry.

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Monday, February 3, 2014

Tips for Rebuilding a 4L60E Transmission

Tips for Rebuilding a 4L60E Transmission

The 4L60E transmission is an electronically-controlled version of the 700R4 four-speed overdrive transmission. The engine control module controls and shifts the transmission for precise control of the shift points and lockup torque converter. Manufacturers used the transmission in light- and medium-duty rear-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles, such as trucks and sport utility vehicles, and in full-size rear-wheel drive passenger cars such as the Caprice and Impala.

Proper Workbench

    The 4L60E transmission has numerous parts internal to the case assembly. Professional transmission re-builders use a very large worktable with plenty of room to keep the parts in order, clean and organized. The worktables have ledges to prevent losing small parts and components and a screened drain to capture transmission fluid. Lay out the internal components of the 4L60E during disassembly in order on an adequately sized workbench to keep the components organized.

Clean Workspace

    Clean the worktable prior to use. Transmission re-builders worktables are stainless steel and easy to clean. Dirt and grit picked up during the rebuilding process significantly reduce the life of a transmission. In a pinch, secure wood strips around the outside edge of the table to create a ledge to retain small parts. Drape a plastic drop as a resourcecloth over the table to provide a clean surface and catch excess transmission fluid.

Visual Aids

    Obtain an exploded view diagram of the 4L60E from the transmission parts supplier. Suppliers keep diagrams on hand to identify the exact parts customers are attempting to purchase. The diagram indicates the order and placement of the components. Experienced technicians use the diagram while rebuilding to jog their memory and speed the assembly process. Often overlooked as a resource, cell phones can be invaluable during the rebuilding process. Take numerous pictures with a cell phone during the disassembly process as a erence to help during re-assembly of the 4L60E.

Additional Componets to Consider Replacing

    The 4L60E transmission has several known weak points that are prone to failure. Upgrade the sun-reaction shell with a hardened steel sun shell to prevent it from shearing at the splines. Upgrade the 2-4 servo to increase the holding power of the band, preventing slipping and burning of the band. Install a rev-kit or new springs in the 3-4 clutch pack to prevent engagement at high rpm that will burn and damage the new clutch pack.

High Horsepower Modifications

    With proper modifications, the 4L60E transmission will easily handle 600 foot-pounds or more of torque from highly-modified powerful engines. Upgrade the input shaft and output shafts from mild steel to hardened steel shafts. Replace the stock three-gear planetary gear sets with four- or five-gear planetary sets. Use racing clutches, bands and steels. Use synthetic transmission fluid to handle extreme heat and stress and extend the life of the transmission under abusive conditions.

Modifying Shift Quality

    The springs of the accumulators under the valve body of the 4L60 E control the crispness of the shifts. The servos control shift quality by purposefully slowing the buildup of fluid pressure in the clutch servos. The clutches slip, creating a smooth transition into the next gear. Softer springs result in softer shifts. Stiffer springs result in crisper shifts. Install the servo piston and spring in the upside-down position to lock them out completely, for the harshest and crispest shift possible.

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How to Remove the Back Seat on a 2005 Acura RL

How to Remove the Back Seat on a 2005 Acura RL

The Acura RL was introduced to replace the Acura Legend. Both cars are luxury models produced by Japanese automaker Honda. The RL designation stands for "Road Luxury." If you decide that you want to remove the back seat on your 2005 Acura RL, you can do so in your home garage and save yourself some time and money. Maybe youd like to have the carpet cleaned or you are reupholstering or replacing the seat. In any case, it will take you about 30 minutes to complete this task, and you will need only one tool that can be purchased from any auto parts or hardware store.

Instructions

    1

    Move the front seats as far forward as possible. Open all the doors.

    2

    Separate the crevice between the seat back and the seat cushion with your hands to locate the bolt that holds the seat cushions in place. Remove this bolt with a socket wrench.

    3

    Pull the latches under the seat cushion forward and remove the seat cushion.

    4

    Locate the three bolts under each seat back and remove with a socket wrench. Remove the two bolts under each headrest with a socket wrench.

    5

    Pull the seat back forward and lift it out of the side door of your Acura.

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