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Wheel bearings are circular parts located in the hub of a motorcycle wheel. When the bearings are working correctly they allow the wheel to spin freely. This part of the motorcycle is one which is overlooked and requires constant repair to ensure it works correctly. Finding the correct wheel bearings for the Yamaha DT is important. The information can be found in the vehicles manual. If a grinding noise comes from the wheel or the wheel wobbles when it moves, the bearings will need replacing immediately.

Instructions

1

Place the motorbike securely on the stand so that the rear wheel is elevated. Check to see if the wheel spins freely. Ensure that the bike cannot move at all before you begin.

2

Use the wrench to remove the muffler by by loosening the drive clamps and heat shield.

3

Take off the axle nut with the wrench and use the wooden mallet to tap the axle free from the wheel. Move the axle to a safe place to avoid it being damaged.

4

Caully remove the brake disc from the brake caliper and slip the drive belt from its socket. Pull the rear wheel away from the frame and place it on a flat surface to work on.

5

Gently tap the bearings out from around the wheel using the long drift bar. Ensure that the bearing does not become twisted around the hub. Repeat the process on the opposite side.

6

Align the bearings where the old ones were. Use the old bearings to softly tap the new bearing in place. Turn the wheel over and fit the second bearing the same way

7

Reattach the wheel to the Yamaha DT following the removal steps in reverse. Spin the wheel to ensure it moves freely.

The first thing you should know is that if you own a Softail manufactured after 2006, installing an auxiliary lighting kit will be a longer and more involved job than it may seem to you now, as you languidly lean against one wall of your garage, rub your chin and consider how next to improve your ride. Since the 2007 model year, all Harleys have come equipped with Electronic Fuel Injection so electronics are everywhere, including in your fuel tank. Further, Harley recommends that the fuel tank come off then go back on when you install the motor companys auxiliary lighting kit. Novice mechanics may confidently begin this job, but they will no longer be novices when they are done.

Instructions

Removing The EFI Fuel Tank

1

Ride your motorcycle until the fuel gauge registers less than 1/4 tank.

2

Release the fuse box cover under the right side of the seat by pulling on it. Disconnect the fuel pump fuse by sliding flathead screwdriver behind one side of the fuse.

3

Shift the bike into neutral and start the engine. After the engine dies continue to try to start the engine for several more seconds.

4

Separate the fuel supply line from the tank by sliding the fitting sleeve up and the pulling the fuel hose down.

5

Remove the Phillips screw from the rear fender seat tab with a Phillips head screw driver. Pull off the seat.

6

Remove the black wire from the negative battery post with a combination wrench.

7

Loosen the instrument panel by removing the chrome nut in the middle of the panel with an Allen wrench. Pull the two halves of the fuel pump module connector apart and remove the instrument panel.

8

Stop one end of a 5/16 inch hose with a 5/16 inch bolt. Fasten the bolt in the hose with a worm style hose clamp and a flat head screwdriver.

9

Set a large gas can near the bike. Cut the hose clamp on one end of the crossover line under the tank with tin snips.

10

Remove the unclamped end of the crossover line from the tank fitting and replace it with the unclamped end of the 5/16 inch hose. Drain the remaining gasoline from the fuel tank into the large gas can through the open crossover line.

11

Remove spilled gasoline from around the motorcycle with rags. Move the rags and gasoline outside and away from the bike.

12

Unsnap the continuous vent line and crossover line from the fittings on the bottom of the tank and set aside.

13

Remove the front and rear tank mounting bolts and their washers and nuts with an open end wrench. Pull apart the two halves of the wiring harness fuel gauge connector.

14

Remove the fuel tank.

Install Auxiliary Lights

15

Mount the mounting clamps to the left and right fork tubes with the four Allen screws in the lighting kit. Tighten the screws to 70 inch pounds of torque with a torque wrench and an Allen socket.

16

Push the wires from the two bar lights through the mounting bracket holes. Fasten the two lamps to the two brackets with the clamp blocks, retainers and washers in the lighting kit.

17

Tighten the retainers to 20 pounds with an open end socket and torque wrench.

18

Slide the inner nesting rings onto each auxiliary light bulb. Connect the black wires to the black quick connect terminals adjacent to the indexing tabs and the gray wires to the remaining quick connect terminals.

19

Lock the bulbs into the outer trim rings with the screws in the kit and a Phillips head screwdriver. Pull the accessory lamp wires through the chrome conduits included in the kit.

20

Set the accessory lighting wiring harness included with the kit in the seat pan. Stretch the longest wires to the steering head along the frame.

21

Unscrew the nut on the grounding stud next to the seat pan with an open end wrench. Slip the metal ring on the black wire in the accessory lighting wiring harness over the stud. Refasten the hex nut with an open end wrench.

22

Mate the white wiring connector to positive connector "B" on the accessory wiring included with the kit. Tie the accessory lighting wiring harness to the adjacent wires with the plastic ties included in the kit.

23

Extend the longest wires in the accessory harness past the steering head. Route the switch wires across the left side of the handlebars to the clutch lever.

24

Install the small chrome switch into the switch mounting bracket included in the kit using a Torx driver.

25

Remove the bottom screw from the clutch lever cover with a Torx socket and socket wrench. Position the tab of the switch bracket over the screw hole and replace the bottom screw. Tighten the bottom screw to 65 inch pounds with a torque wrench and a Torx socket.

26

Fasten the switch wire to the handlebar wire clips. Loosen and remove the chrome, headlight trim ring with a Phillips head screwdriver.

27

Disconnect the female connector block from the headlight plugs. Pull the black, weather proof boot off the back of the headlamp.

28

Squeeze the headlight retaining clip to remove it from the headlight assembly. Remove the headlight bulb by twisting the clip and pulling the bulb.

29

Thread the light switch wire into the headlamp housing through the rubber grommet on the back of the housing. Connect the switch wire to the yellow, low beam wire using the double-ended tube connector in the kit and wire crimpers.

30

Remount the headlamp in the headlamp housing.

31

Insert the white wire in the auxiliary wiring harness into heat shrinkable tubing from the kit. Remove 3/8 inch of insulation from the ends of the two auxiliary light wires with a wire stripper.

32

Join the three wires with the Y tube connector in the lighting kit and a crimping tool. Slide the heat shrinkable tubing over the splice and shrink with a heat gun.

Reassemble The Bike

33

Secure the loose auxiliary lighting wires to the lower fork with the clips included in the auxiliary lighting kit.

34

Reconnect the fuel tank and all hoses. Connect the negative battery cable to the negative battery post.

35

Reinsert the fuel pump fuse and close the electrical caddy cover.

36

Reinstall the seat and uel the motorcycle.

Steering problems in Jeeps have led to multiple recalls by Chrysler. Jeep Grand Cherokee, Commander, Liberty and Wrangler vehicles were recalled in 2008 and 2009. According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), registered vehicle owners should have been notified by mail about these recalls.

Steering Capability Loss

On April 7, 2009, Chrysler recalled 43,489 2002 and 2003 Jeep Liberty vehicles because the front suspension upper control arm ball joint might not be properly lubricated and might corrode. This could lead to a loss of steering capability, according to the NHTSA.

Steering Intermediate Shaft

On May 5, 2008, Chrysler recalled 1,585 Jeep Wranglers with the model years of 2007 and 2008 because some of these Jeeps might have been manufactured with insufficient clearance between the steering intermediate shaft and the rear brake tubes. Per the NHTSA, prolonged brake tube contact could wear a hole in the tube and lead to partial brake system loss.

Steering Column Wiring

On April 7, 2009, Chrysler recalled 4,314 Jeeps vehicles including Grand Cherokee, Commander and Wrangler 2009 models due to reversed wiring in steering column. The wiring problem could keep the drivers side air bag from working in a crash.

Setting the float height on a Weber carburetor is important to the proper operation of the engine. Any time a new or rebuilt carburetor is used, the float height must be checked. A float level that is too high will cause the engine to run rich and may flood the carburetor with too much gas. A float that is too low will make the engine run lean and cause poor performance. Adjusting the float height is an easy task that does not require special tools or expertise.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuel line, choke thermostat wire and carburetor flange mounting bolts. Remove the throttle linkage and lift the carburetor off the vehicle. Place a clean shop rag over the exposed intake manifold to prevent dirt and debris from entering the engine.

2

Remove the six retaining screws on the top of the carburetor. Remove the clip holding on the choke linkage. Be caul not to damage the clip. Remove the top of the carburetor. The carburetor may have gasoline inside the float bowl; drain any residual gas into a fuel proof container and dispose of properly.

3

Hold the carburetor at approximately a 45-degree angle and allow the float to hang freely. Measure the bottom of the float to ensure both sides are parallel to the gasket surface of the carburetor body. Bend the float to correct any warpage between the two sides of the float.

4

Hold the carburetor upside down so that the float is resting on the float valve. Measure from the bottom surface of the float to the machined gasket surface of the carburetor body. Bend the float tab until the reading is 1.5 inches or 38.5 mm.

5

Install the top of the carburetor and tighten the six hold down screws. Attach the choke rod with the retaining clip. Remove the shop rag on the intake manifold and install the carburetor on the vehicle. Connect the fuel line, throttle linkage, choke wire and hold down bolts. Start the vehicle and check for leaks.

Modern engines use various checks and balances to adjust the fuel-to-air ratio inside the combustion chambers. If the engine manages this ratio poorly, many problems can arise---including permanent engine damage.

Ideal Ratio

Under normal circumstances, an engine needs roughly 14 times as much air as gasoline to burn a fuel-air mixture completely. The combustion process occurs when the oxygen in the air combines with the carbon atoms in the fuel. As engine speed and load change, this ideal ratio will also vary slightly and will undergo adjustments based on momentary demands by the engine computer.

Rich Mixture

The fuel-to-air ratio becomes "rich" when the mixture contains more fuel than ideal. While it may sound counterintuitive, this condition leads to sluggish engine performance and may harm the spark plugs over time. Naturally, it will also increase fuel consumption.

Lean Mixture

A lean mixture contains an insufficient amount of fuel given the quantity of air. This condition leads to a rough idle and, in more extreme cases, stalling of the engine. It can also result in overheating because the spraying of fuel into the intake port or directly into combustion chambers has a cooling effect on the engine.

Whether you want a louder sound, a quieter sound or a less whining sound, there are cost-effective methods of improving the type of noise coming from your cars exhaust system. Before you buy a brand new, expensive exhaust system, try improving the one you already have by, for example, putting in a drop muffler, with washers on the muffler bolts, swapping the resonator for a stainless steel pipe, or removing the muffler entirely for a really vibrant rumble.

Instructions

1

Install a drop muffler in a few minutes to enhance the loudness and clarity of the exhaust. Wear protective clothing. Slide under the car and unbolt the 2 bolts that connect the mid pipe to the muffler. Put washers on the muffler bolts by either removing the bolts or pulling them free enough to push the washers on. Reattach the muffler to the car using the bolts.

2

Swap the resonator in the middle of the exhaust for a stainless steel pipe with a slight S bend along its length. Create the S bend yourself using a rubber mallet. Apply a small amount of pressure first, then work it more fully to create the desired shape. The S bend reduces booming sounds, if you are looking for a less noisy exhaust. The resonator itself is designed to silence the exhaust and reduce boom, according to Cannington Performance, so take it out and replace it with a pipe similar to the mid-pipe to release the rumble.

3

Weld your new components together using a welder. Wear specialist goggles, a face mask and heat-resistant gloves. Install the welding wire. Set the wire speed and power. Create a butt weld, where two adjoining edges of metal are joined.

4

Remove the muffler completely to create a rasping, loud sound, if that is what you are looking for.

5

Replace the back axle section, which includes the muffler and tailpipe. Add in a new muffler, either of your own design, or a manufactured muffler and new tailpipe.

6

For a high-performance, high-clarity option, purchase and install a Borla cat-back stainless steel exhaust to improve the sound of your exhaust. Low frequencies create booming, droning sounds inside the vehicle. Borla exhaust systems are designed to be less restrictive, keeping the velocity and frequency high and theore limiting the sound to behind the tailpipe. They can also enhance the performance of your car. According to Borla, their mufflers maintain a race engines power and, in some cases, actually add to it. Installation should take between two and six hours. Work from the back of the vehicle to the front.

Mercurys 2001 Sable uses an oil pressure sending unit mounted in an oil galley in the engine block to detect oil pressure within the engine. The sending unit in the 3.0-liter engine is a normally-closed switch that completes the low oil pressure warning lamp circuit to ground and illuminating the lamp when there is insufficient oil pressure. When oil pressure within the galley reaches the specified pressure, the switch opens and interrupts the low oil pressure lamp ground circuit, turning the lamp off. Illumination of the low oil pressure lamp can indicate a bad sending unit, bad connection at the sending unit wire, or a more serious condition within the engine that is lowering the oil pressure.

Instructions

Overhead Valve 3.0-Liter Engine

1

Locate the oil sending unit on the rear left side of the engine block above the flywheel. Disconnect the oil sending unit electrical connector.

2

Remove the oil sending unit, using a ratchet and socket.

3

Wrap the threads on the new oil sending unit with Teflon tape, or equivalent electrically conductive sealer. Make certain the tape does not cover the end of the oil sending units sensor that penetrates the engine oil galley.

4

Thread the new oil sending unit into the engine block. Tighten the sensor to 14 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket. Connect the oil sending unit electrical connector.

5

Start the engine. Make certain the low oil pressure warning lamp on the dash instrument cluster goes off after the engine starts. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature and check the sending unit for leaks.

Dual Overhead Cam 3.0-Liter Engine

6

Park the vehicle on firm, level ground. Engage the parking brake. Raise the vehicle using a jack and support it on jack stands. Chock the rear wheels.

7

Locate the oil sending unit on the left side of the engine above the oil filter. Disconnect the oil sending unit electrical connector.

8

Hold the adapter pipe in the engine block in place using an open-end wrench. Remove the oil sending unit from the adapter pipe, using a ratchet and socket.

9

Wrap the threads on the new oil sending unit with Teflon tape, or equivalent electrically conductive sealer. Make certain the tape does not cover the end of the oil sending units sensor that penetrates the engine oil galley.

10

Thread the new oil sending unit into the adapter pipe. While holding the adapter pipe in place with the wrench, tighten the oil sending unit to 10 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

11

Connect the oil sending unit electrical connector.

12

Raise the Sable with the jack, and then remove jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

13

Start the engine. Make certain the low oil pressure warning lamp on the dash instrument cluster goes off after the engine starts. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature and check the sending unit for leaks.

The single oxygen sensor on the 1985 Chevy S-10 Blazer is a more primitive design than todays O2 sensors. Its erred to as a non-heated single (one) wired sensor. While it functions similarly to todays sensors, it demands that the engine is up to operating temperature, including the engine coolant, before it begins to monitor the fuel-to-air ratio. Todays sensors have multiple wires with built-in heaters that heat them up quickly to begin monitoring the emissions more readily. This lessens the amount of pollutants allowed into the air while the vehicle is warming up.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake of the 1985 Chevy S-10 Blazer and then open the hood. Access to the oxygen sensor is on the lower side of the engine, but youll have more adequate lighting with the hood opened.

2

Hoist one front quarter of the Blazer up with a jack placed under the frame rail and then lower the jack and Blazer onto a jack stand. Repeat for the other front quarter to elevate the front end completely.

3

Put on the safety glasses and crawl underneath the Blazer with the remaining items.

4

Follow the front exhaust pipe to where it connects to the manifold on the drivers side to locate the oxygen sensor.

5

Follow the wire coming off the end of the oxygen sensor to the wire harness plug mating connection to the oxygen sensor plug. Lift up the release tab of the wire harness plug and then pull the oxygen sensor plug out.

6

Put the oxygen sensor socket onto the ratchet and then align the wire of the sensor into the slit on the side of the socket.

7

Place the socket fully onto the hex-head of the sensor and then turn the ratchet counterclockwise to remove it from the sensor exhaust port. Remove the sensor.

8

Inspect the replacement oxygen sensor threads. If there is no anti-seize compound on the threads, apply a thin coating of electrically conductive anti-seize compound to the threads, being caul not to get the compound on the head of the sensor.

9

Hand-thread the replacement sensor into the oxygen sensor exhaust port as far as it will go.

10

Tighten the sensor snugly with the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket (placing the sensor wire into the socket slit), but do not over-tighten it. The threads of the sensors are made of much softer metal than the exhaust system to prevent damaging the mating threads of the system. Because of this, its easy to strip the threads of the sensors.

11

Connect the sensor wire plug to the mating plug of the wire harness until the lock clicks into place.

12

Lower the Blazer and close the hood.

Portable electronic appliances typically come with 12-volt adapters and patch cords that enable such appliances to be used inside vehicles. In the United States, production of 12-volt automobile plugs is standardized under "UL standard 2089," which covers plugs and patch cords that insert into cigarette lighter receptacles. A 12-volt car lighter adapter plug is easy and convenient to use, but can sometimes become defective due to abuse or misuse. If you know how to rewire a defective car lighter adapter plug you can save yourself some cash.

Instructions

1

Cut the cord attached to the lighter plug about 2 inches below the plug, using diagonal pliers. Remove about 2 inches of outer covering from the tip of the patch cord, using diagonal pliers. Strip off 1/2 inch of insulation from the tip of the two inner wires (positive and negative), using a wire stripper.

2

Look at the plug. Observe the two retractable metal fins protruding on each side of its cylinder, and the retractable metal nipple at its tip. Note that the side fins are negative conductors, and that the tip is the positive conductor of the 12-volt circuit.

3

Hold the plug cap in your right hand, hold the cylindrical body in your left hand, and twist the cap counterclockwise to unscrew the cap from the plugs cylindrical body. Find the holding screw along the adapter plugs cylindrical body, and unscrew it with a screwdriver. A lighter plug is typically split lengthwise along its center into two identical halves. Open the cylindrical body to reveal the metal fins and nipple inside, including a small spring that pushes the retractable metal nipple.

4

Note the order in which the metal conductors and spring are arranged inside the plugs cylindrical body. Remove the existing wires attached to the metal nipple, and to the metal fins, by cutting the wires using diagonal pliers.

5

Loop the stripped end of the positive wire (red, or black with white stripe) around the base of the metal nipple (positive terminal), and solder the copper wire to the metal nipple, using a soldering gun and solder wire.

6

Wrap the stripped end of the negative wire (black, without stripe) around the base of the metal fins. Fasten the wire onto the fins, using soldering gun and solder wire. Replace the metal nipple and metal fins inside the plug, and reassemble the plug in the same arrangement as you had found them earlier. Make sure that the positive and negative wires do not come in contact with each other.

7

Turn on your vehicles ignition switch. Insert the car lighter adapter plug into a 12-volt receptacle on your vehicles dashboard, and turn on your appliance to test the connection.

The 1992 Honda Civic has had few complaints or problems over the years, but there have been 13 different recalls from the manufacturer primarily dealing with the exterior lighting, according to Car Complaints and Repair Pal. The other major recall on the 1992 Honda Civic has been on the transmission, but there have been some problems concerning other areas of the vehicle.

Warped Brake Rotors

One of the biggest problems with the 1992 Honda Civic has been the warping of the brake rotors. A Civic owner can determine if this is the problem easily because the car will vibrate when the brake pedal is applied. This problem with the Honda Civic has not been attributed to any one defect other than standard wear from the brake pads being pressed against the brake rotors. The rotors wear over time and can be easily repaired by shaving down the rotors until the brake rotors are smooth again. Overheating is another cause for the brake rotors to warp along with a misalignment of new brake shoes.

Sun Roof Leaking

Another common problem of the 1992 Honda Civic is that the sun roof begins to leak. The main cause of this leakage is from the drain plugs, which allow the water drain away from the sun roof, get clogged or plugged up from debris. A Civic owner easily can fix this problem by cleaning out the drain reservoirs located around the sun roof. The water begins to leak over the drivers side or front passenger side of the Civic and is not attributed to the seals around the sun roof.

Starting Problems

The 1992 Honda Civic has problems starting, according to MSN autos. This starting problem has been attributed to the distributor that controls the signals to the spark plugs or the main relay, which is part of the ignition system. This problem is not part of the recall of the 1992 Honda Civic, but many owners have developed this problem during the ownership of the Civic. According to MSN autos, this starting problem is categorized under critical problems.

Purchasing a brand new transmission could set you back as much as $2,000. Anything that can be done to keep your transmission operating smoothly is highly recommended. A transmission flush is one such task, and having information regarding this topic can be beneficial to vehicle owners.

Procedures

A transmission flush is the process of replacing old transmission fluid with fresh fluid. Fluid flush machines can be used for this and are known to make the process simple and quick, taking only about 10 minutes or so to complete. The car is put in park and the engine left idling as the old fluid is swapped out for the new.

Significance

Worn out fluid is harmful to transmissions, often resulting in them failing altogether. Old fluid becomes oxidized and fails to lubricate the transmission as well as it did when it was new. Control valves also stick due to old dirty fluid. A transmission flush eliminates all these harmful effects caused by old fluid.

Time Frame

Flushing a transmission on a regular basis can increase the life of the transmission. It is recommended to have your transmission flushed about every 40,000 miles or so.

Using a torque wrench to tighten bolts on exhaust manifolds allows for precise setting of the torque, or tightness of the fastener. Both loose and tight bolts can be dangerous, so you must follow the specifications for your car exactly or expect them to break.

Instructions

1

Have your torque specs handy. These can be found in the owners manual of your car or exhaust manifold. You may need to hunt around online or ask a mechanic if you are without a manual.

2

Use high-grade bolts to fasten your parts. Manifolds play key roles in the exhaust system, so you dont want to skimp on quality. Choose at least a level 5 bolt for your car or motorcycle. The higher level means a better quality component to trust in your car.

3

Install your exhaust manifold if it is not yet in your engine. Simply finger-tighten the bolts, starting first from the inside and working outwards. Tightening fasteners in the wrong sequence may damage your manifold.

4

Check to make sure all the bolts are in place. Manifolds must have every bolt installed to avoid cracking. You cant skip a fastener in a car just because parts feel secure when you install them.

5

Tighten the exhaust manifolds bolts using a torque wrench. Each bolt needs to be tightened according to the torque specs for your car. The torque wrench helps you tighten and loosen bolts to a set amount in pounds.

6

Work in a spiral pattern from the middle section to the outer bolts, starting with the even bolts. The outer bolts usually have a smaller torque weight for adjustment. Make sure you adjust the torque wrench accordingly.

7

Stop turning the bolt when you feel the wrench stop working. Avoid over-tightening, which can cause the bolts to break. Always fall within the proper torque range, which you should have set on your wrench.

8

Visit a site like TorqueSpecs.com to check your torque specs after 2 weeks to make sure your bolts are tightened properly (see Resources below). This site has many common specs for various car parts. Whenever installing exhaust parts or systems, it is a good idea to check to see how the parts settled during use.

The serpentine belt in the Chevy Silverado works hard. The serpentine belt that controls the air conditioner also controls the other accessories in your vehicle. It is called a serpentine belt because of the way it snakes around inside the engine. It should be inspected each time you change the oil. Look for cuts, cracks or glazing. If it makes noise, it should be replaced. (Reference 1)

Instructions

1

Study the belts routing. If there is no diagram under the hood that shows the routing, draw one yourself. If the new belt is placed on the wrong way it will cause problems. (Reference 2)

2

Unload the tensioner pulley using a 3/8 inch extension and ratchet. Attach the ratchet to the tensioner bolt and turn it counterclockwise.

3

Caully remove the belt by first releasing it from the tensioner, then side the tensioner back into place, and remove the belt from the other pulleys.

4

Check and clean the tensioner pulley and all the other pulleys for possible wear, dirt, old rubber or oil. Clean the grooves in the pulleys with a wire brush or brake cleaner.

5

Install the replacement belt around all the pulleys, except the tensioner pulley, erring to your notes to be certain you are installing it in the correct direction.

6

Turn the tensioner pulley to the left with the 3/8 inch ratchet, and slip the belt over it. Restore the tensioner to its original position.

7

Start the engine and run it for about two minutes to allow the belt to become completely seated.

Removing the distributor from the engine in your Ford Bronco II can be done in just a few minutes time. Replacement distributors are available from Ford as well as some aftermarket manufacturers; or if you are working on a tight budget, you can source a good used part from a local salvage yard. Changing the distributor can affect the engine timing; and if the new distributor is installed incorrectly, the engine will not run. Work slowly and mark the location of the distributor before pulling it out.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Bronco II. Locate the negative battery cable and loosen the clamp bolt on the cable end with a wrench. Lift the cable off the battery and set it aside, isolating it so it cannot fall back against the battery.

2

Locate the distributor on the top of the engine with its cap and the spark plug wires on top of it. Locate the two retaining clips on the distributor cap; they will be along the bottom edge of the cap.

3

Insert a flat head screwdriver into the cap retainer head, press down and turn the retainer counterclockwise to release it. Move to the second retainer head and release it as well. Lift the cap off the distributor, leaving the wires in place. Set it aside.

4

Follow the distributor down to where it inserts into the engine. Use a scratch-all or similar tool to scribe a line on the block and the distributor as a erence for aligning it when it is reinstalled later.

5

Locate the retaining bolt and bracket at the base of the distributor. Remove the bolt with a distributor wrench then lift the bracket off the block. Set the bolt and bracket aside.

6

Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the connector on the distributor pigtail and set it aside. Grasp the distributor and pull it straight up and out of the engine.

An electromagnet is simply a coil of wire wound around a core. When connected to a DC voltage or power source, it attracts metal just like an ordinary magnet. However, the strength and polarity of the field can be adjusted by altering the magnitude and direction of the current. By adjusting the shape of the electromagnets core, the shape of the magnetic field may also be changed. Electromagnets are simple in concept but can appear in numerous forms.

Solenoid Electromagnets

A solenoid is an electromagnet with coil wrapped around a core of air (e.g., instead of iron). Typical voltages of solenoids are 12 and 24 volts. Solenoid actuators are used to push and pull things such as locks and valves. Almost every automobile uses a solenoid to control the starter motor, connecting it to the battery and the engine flywheel.

Electric Bell Electromagnets

You probably know the sound of the alarm bell from a fire drill at elementary school. The bell functions by means of an electromagnet. When a switch activates the current, it produces a magnetic field in which the metal arm of the bell repeatedly hits the inside or the outside of the bell. Doorbells and old alarm clocks also use similar electromagnets.

Electromagnets in Broadcast Technology

Before cable and digital technology, radio and television used electromagnets in their transmitters to send electromagnetic waves over wide geographic areas. The TV or radio antennae that received these waves could demodulate the signal (by generating its own electromagnetic wave that corresponded with the transmitted wave) and convert it into image and sound.

Superconducting Electromagnets

Superconducting electromagnets are used to produce very strong magnet fields in physics labs. The coil consists of wire cooled to hundreds of degrees below zero. In a particle accelerator, such a magnet has the power to bend the paths of particles formed from proton and ion collisions at near light speed.

Bitter Electromagnets

Bitter electromagnets are solenoids that use specially designed resistive magnetic plates in place of coil in order to resist the heat produced by an electrical current. Francis Bitter invented these plates in 1936, hence the name "Bitter" magnets. These magnets are mostly found in research laboratories.

The GMC Yukon is a full-size SUV very similar to the Chevrolet Tahoe. The Yukon XL has a longer wheelbase than the base model, and the Yukon Denali is a luxury version of the Yukon. The most common engine in the 2000 GMC Yukon is an 8-cylinder 5.3-liter engine that uses sequential fuel injection. All versions of this vehicle have an electric fuel pump that supplies fuel to the fuel injection under high pressure.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Remove the filler cap on the fuel tank, and wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure fitting on the inlet fuel pipe of the fuel injectors. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel pressure fitting. Place the hose for the fuel pressure gauge into a gasoline container, and open the valve on the gauge. Drain and disconnect the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge from the inlet fuel pipe.

2

Remove the retaining ring for the fuel sender assembly with a fuel tank sending unit wrench. Disconnect the fuel sender assembly and discard the gasket. Hold the main body of the fuel sender assembly, and disconnect the fuel strainer from the fuel-sending assembly. Discard the fuel strainer.

3

Clean the surface of the fuel tank around the mounting area for the fuel-sending assembly. Disconnect the electrical connections to the fuel pump. Unfasten the retaining clip for the fuel level sensors electrical connector, and disconnect the fuel level sensors electrical connector. Loosen the retaining clip for the fuel level sensor and remove the fuel level sensor. Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor.

4

Attach the fuel pressure sensor, fuel level sensor and electrical connector for the fuel level sensor to the new fuel-sending assembly. Connect the electrical connector to the new fuel pump. Position the new fuel pump strainer to the new fuel-sending assembly so that it will be horizontal when you install the fuel-sending assembly to the fuel tank. Ensure that the fuel pump strainer does not block the movement of the fuel float arm. Push the strainer to seat it on the bottom of the fuel sender.

5

Install a new gasket for the fuel-sending assembly on the fuel tank. Connect the fuel-sending assembly to the fuel tank, and fasten the retaining ring with the fuel tank sending unit wrench. Connect the fuel tank, and use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts for the fuel tank strap to 30 foot pounds. Fill the fuel tank, and replace the filler cap for the fuel tank. Attach the cable for the negative terminal of the battery.

6

Turn the ignition on for 2 seconds and off for 10 seconds to pressurize the fuel system. Start the engine, and check for fuel leaks.

The rear disc brake on an automobile requires the use of a variety of specialty tools, when repairing or replacing it. Many of these tools are available at most auto parts stores, but some need to be ordered, or purchased, through an automotive tool supplier.

Disc Brake Piston Tool

The disc brake piston tool is used to adjust the rear disc brakes on automobiles. This disc brake piston tool is used with a wrench and driver set. The piston tool looks like a cylinder, which fits around the piston and has a square hole, located in the middle of the cylinder, where the driver fits in place.

Rear Brake Caliper Kit

Rear brake caliper kits are used on rear disc brakes, where the pistons are tied to the parking brake. When the pistons and parking brake are tied together, it requires the parking brake to be turned and pushed back, in order to gain access to the rest of the brake systems. It comes with different size adapters, in order to fit most domestic and import automobiles.

Disc Brake Caliper Spreader

The disc brake caliper spreader is a tool used when the parking brake is not tied into the pistons. The caliper spreader is used to open the calipers, which hold, and press, the brake pads against the brake rotor. In order for the brake pads to be removed, the brake calipers need to be opened wide, or pressed open, with the caliper spreader. The disc brake caliper spreader looks like a small flat plate, with a rod and handle, which turns or screws, so the calipers can be pressed open.

Electronic Brake Fluid Tester

The electronic brake fluid tester is used to check the moisture in the brake fluid. The brake fluid tester looks like a test tube that has LED lights, which inform the mechanic of the quality of the brake fluid. A little moisture in the brake fluid is acceptable, but this brake fluid tester has different colored lights, which tell how much moisture is in the brake fluid, so the mechanic can make a decision on whether to flush the rear brake lines and replace the fluid.

Brake Shoe Retaining Spring Tool

The brake shoe retaining spring tool is a tool used on the rear disc brakes, to install or remove the retaining spring on the brake shoes. It comes with different size ends, which fit four different size springs. The brake-shoe retaining spring tool has a handle, located in the middle, so the mechanic can turn the tool.

Socket wrenches tighten and loosen nuts and bolts more efficiently than open-end wrenches and pliers because of an internal mechanism that allows the user to twist a bolt without having to remove and reposition the tool. The sockets themselves come in various sizes to accommodate the numerous nut and bolt sizes. Socket adapters increase the users flexibility relatively inexpensively by increasing the number of sockets that can be used with a wrench of a particular size.

Instructions

1

Determine the size of the socket wrenchs drive fitting; 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch, 1/2 inch are the most common sizes.

2

Determine the adapter needed to fit the wrench and the different-sized socket. For example, you need a 1/2-inch to 3/8-inch adapter to attach a 1/2-inch wrench to a 3/8-inch socket.

3

Attach the 1/4-inch side of the adapter to the 1/4-inch wrench and the 3/8-inch side of the adapter to the 3/8-inch socket.

A Bernzomatic sparker is a device used for igniting torches. One end of a spring-loaded handle is welded to a metal cup. The other end of the handle, which contains the flint, sits inside the cup. Operating the sparker is extremely simple. The operator opens the acetylene valve on the torch, holds the cup of the sparker over the end of the torch and squeezes the spring-loaded handle of the sparker. This drags a flint across a knurled piece of steel, causing a spark that ignites the acetylene. Replacing the flint in a Bernzomatic sparker is something that almost anyone can do in a matter of seconds.

Instructions

1

Lift the end of the handle containing the flint out of the sparkers cup. The handle is spring-loaded, so the sparker will swing to the right of the cup by itself after it clears the edge of the cup.

2

Loosen the old flint, located at the end of the spring-loaded handle, by turning it counterclockwise with a pair of pliers. Finish unscrewing the flint by hand.

3

Thread a new flint onto the end of the spring-loaded arm and screw it onto the arm by turning it clockwise by hand. Finish tightening the flint with a pair of pliers.

4

Squeeze the spring-loaded arm with one hand until the flint hits the outside rim of the cup. Lift the arm up until the flint clears the edge of the cup. Squeeze the spring-loaded arm until the flint clears the edge of the cup. Lower the spring-loaded arm into the cup, then release the handle.

The brake lights on your Isuzu Rodeo notify other drivers when you are stopping, making a safer driving experience for everyone. In fact, working brake lights are required by law. If your brake lights are out, you create a hazard for other drivers who may not notice you are stopping or slowing down. Replace your brake lights as soon as they go out. Replacement bulbs are available at any major auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws on the sides of the taillight assembly.

2

Remove the Phillips screw from underneath the taillight assembly.

3

Pull the assembly toward you and out of the back end of the Rodeo.

4

Turn the top light socket counterclockwise to unlock it from the assembly. Slide it out of the taillight assembly. The top socket is the brake light, while the other two are the turn signal lights and reverse lights.

5

Press the bulb in toward the socket and turn it counterclockwise to disengage it from the socket. Pull the bulb out of the socket. Slide a new bulb into the socket, press it down and turn it clockwise to lock it into the socket.

6

Slide the socket back into the taillight assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it in. Slide the assembly back into the rear of the Rodeo and replace the screws.

The side mirror on a Hyundai Elantra consists of a plastic shell bolted to the side of the door, a small motor bolted inside the shell and a mirror lens attached to the motor. Hyundai designed the mirror to withstand a moderate amount of impact. However, if struck hard enough, the mirror lens will shatter. A shattered mirror could cause you to fail a vehicle inspection or even get you a ticket in a traffic stop.

Instructions

1

Remove the glass shards from the shell of the mirror. The lens is made of plastic so you will not get cut by the shards. If any of the shards are attached to the mirror motor, pull out on them to pop them off the motor.

2

Suck any of the small shards of plastic out of the housing with a vacuum cleaner. Any small pieces of plastic left inside of the shell could jam between the new mirror lens and the plastic shell, preventing you from being able to adjust the mirror.

3

Place the replacement mirror lens in the shell. The tight tolerance of the shell forces the mirror to center in the hole.

4

Press on the mirror lens to push the mounting tabs on the back of the mirror lens around the mirror motor until you feel the mirror pop into place.

The side power mirror on a Chevy Tahoe can get damaged in small and large accidents alike. The good news is that you do not need to simply live with a damaged side power mirror. Order a new power mirror from your local dealership or auto body shop. You may also need to order auto paint for the mirror that matches your Tahoe. The replacement mirror can then be installed in your Tahoe in just a few hours.

Instructions

1

Find the screws on the inside of the Tahoe door panel. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws from the door panel. Pop the door panel out of place and set aside.

2

Remove the mirror trim with a door panel remover tool. Unscrew the three screws that are located beneath the mirror trim with a screwdriver. Place the screws somewhere safe.

3

Disconnect the cables in the mirror and the door. The cables should come apart easily. Remove the mirror from the door.

4

Slip the wiring for the Tahoe replacement mirror through the hole in the door. Screw the mirror into place with the screws from the old mirror. Connect the cable of the new mirror to the cable in the door. The cables should fit together nicely.

5

Replace the door panel. Screw it into place with the panel screws and a screwdriver. Push the mirror trim cover panel back into place.

The headlights on a 1994 Isuzu Trooper use a halogen bulb and a glass housing to display light on the road. Since the headlight assembly is made of glass, it can crack or get damaged from flying debris while driving. If that happens, then you will want to remove the headlight to replace it with a new assembly. This should take about 20 minutes to do.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood. Reach behind the headlights and unplug the harness leading to the halogen bulb in the lens. Remove the corner lenses on the grille using the Phillips screwdriver. Pull the corner lenses off of the grille and untwist the bulb from the back of the lens.

2

Remove the screws around the perimeter of the grille with the Phillips screwdriver. Pull the grille off and away from the front end of the truck.

3

Unscrew the retainers holding the headlight in place using the Phillips screwdriver. Pull the headlight assembly away from the core support.

Removing the brake drums from the rear of your Honda Civic allows access to the brake shoes, brake hardware and slave cylinders. The drums do not wear quickly, so replacing them is not normally a requirement. However, the drum can warp from excess heat. The shoes will require replacement and maintenance periodically. While the drums are off the car, it is a good idea to inspect the springs and hardware, as well as the slave cylinders and the brake lines.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on the rear of your Civic with a lug wrench. Do not take the nuts off the studs yet. Raise the rear of the car with a jack, and position a set of jack stands under the rear suspension.

2

Lower the jack, allowing the car to rest on the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel studs, and slide the tires and wheels off the car. Set them aside.

3

Pry the retaining clips off the wheel studs, if they are still in place, with a flat screwdriver. They look like flat washers on the wheel studs and against the face of the brake drum. Discard the clips.

4

Move to the back of the brake drum, and slide a flat screwdriver into the adjuster access hole on the brake drum backing plate. Lift the locking tab off the adjuster. Insert a brake spoon into the adjuster hole, and turn the brake adjuster up to loosen the brake shoe pressure against the drum.

5

Move to the front of the brake drum, and grasp it on the side. Pull it straight off the shoes and wheel studs. Set the drum aside, and repeat the process on the opposite brake drum to remove it, as well.

Replace the taillights of your 1991 Volvo station wagon with new PB17916 dual filament bulbs if one stops working. You can buy these bulbs at any auto parts store, and they are usually in-stock items. You wont need any tools, and you can access the spent bulbs from the cargo area of the car through an access panel directly behind the lights. On some models, you may need to remove the spare tire to open the right-side access panel.

Instructions

1

Open the rear lift gate of your Volvo wagon and locate the access panel just inside the gate opening directly behind each taillight in the cargo area. Turn the two retaining clips on the access panel to open it.

2

Locate the bulb holder inside the access hole and release the retaining clips on either side of the holder. Pull the holder straight out of the taillight housing and turn it so the bulbs are facing you.

3

Push in slightly on the bulb while rotating it counterclockwise, then remove it from the holder and discard it. Install a new BP17916 bulb; press in on the bulb and rotate it clockwise to lock it in place.

4

Insert the bulb holder into the back of the taillight assembly, pushing it in until the locking tabs snap in place. Close the access panel and turn the two retaining clips to secure the cover.

5

Close the rear lift gate and test the repair by turning on the headlight switch or pushing the brake pedal while someone monitors the taillight function.

The Ford F150s history spans back to the 1948 Ford F-1 half-ton pickup. In 1975, the F-150 was released as a bridge between the F-100 and F-250. The F-150 replaced the F-100 as the smallest of the F-series pickups in 1984. In 1997, Ford dropped the 5.0-liter engine and replaced it with the 4.6-liter V-8, which remained until the 2010 model year. The exhaust manifold gasket is the gasket that seals the connection between the exhaust manifold and the engine. When this gasket fails, it not only creates an exhaust leak, but it can also create a poor running condition.

Instructions

1

Loosen and remove the the EGR valve tube, only on the left exhaust manifold, with a combination wrench. Trace the oil dipstick tube downward and locate the point where its bracket bolts to the engine block. Loosen the bolt securing the bracket to the block, with a ratchet and socket, and pull the tube and dipstick from the engine.

2

Remove the nuts securing the exhaust manifold to the engine, using a ratchet and socket. If the nuts are frozen, apply a coat of rust penetrating spray to free them. Pry the manifold from the engine, using a 12-inch pry bar. Secure the manifold away from the engine using a bungee strap.

3

Pull the old manifold gaskets from the 4.6-liter. Use a wire brush to clean the gasket mating surface on both the exhaust manifold and the engine.

4

Place the new gaskets on the manifold studs protruding from the engine block. Each side of the 4.6-liter has two gaskets, one front and one rear.

5

Release the exhaust manifold from the bungee strap and place it on the studs protruding from the engine block. Hand-tighten all of the nuts to secure the manifold in place.

6

Tighten the nuts, in a crossing pattern starting from the upper rear bolt, to 13 to 16 foot-pounds of torque, using a torque wrench and a socket.

7

Place the dipstick tube back into the engine and tighten the bracket bolt with a ratchet and socket.

8

Reconnect the EGR valve tube to the exhaust manifold, if applicable, and tighten it to 26 to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and combination wrench.

Snap-on is a large company headquartered in Kenosha, Wisconsin, that manufactures diagnostic products, tool storage, hand tools and power tools like air hammers. With the use of the proper bit, or tip, air hammers can be used in a number of situations. Snap-on also manufactures these hammer tips for a wide variety of applications.

Snap-on Air Hammers

Air hammers are a type of pneumatic tool and use compressed air to deliver far more striking force than is typical for a hand tool, far more rapidly than would be possible for a person supplying the force with their arm. They can be used in a variety of applications, from chiseling wood to automotive work. Snap-on currently manufactures four models of air hammers, according the company website. The company produces different types of bits for the hammers to allow the tool to accomplish different tasks.

Air Hammer Bits

Air Hammer tips come in a number of categories, such as chisel tips for gouging or cutting an object, and hammer tips, which can smooth and shape a material. Snap-on currently produces more than 45 different hammer bits, according to the companys catalog. Among the applications are punching holes, cutting metal, breaking welds, pounding rivets and hammering. With some applications, the bits are available with different sizes of striking tips. Some are also available in an extended length, to allow the user more reach while working. The term "hammer tips" can refer specifically to air hammer bits used for hammering, or shaping a material, and Snap-on manufactures a "round hammer" tip.

Automotive Applications

One of the most common uses for air hammers is in automotive work. Snap-on manufactures a number of bits specifically for this field, including those for cutting exhaust pipe, for removing the hinge pins on car doors, and for separating ball joints and tie rods, which are part of a vehicles steering system.

Interchangable Hammer Heads

Snap-on also manufactures a hand hammer with interchangeable "heads" as opposed to "tips." This is a dead blow hammer, a type that incorporates a loose filling in the head to absorb some of the impact of the blow. On its website, Snap-on says its dead blow hammer "adds 35% more striking force with each swing by eliminating rebound and dampening vibration shock to the hand and forearm." The hammer is sold with a set of six removable heads including a non-sparking head and heads in varying levels of hardness.

Many vehicle owners dread paint scratches because they detract from a vehicles appearance. Scratches are caused by door dings in parking lots, flying rocks from passing vehicles, bumper scrapes and intentional acts of vandalism. Many scratches form when objects gouge a vehicles protective coating and base color. Exposure to the elements can eventually cause scratches to rust.



Repair automobile scratches promptly to restore a vehicles appearance and prevent structural damages. Although scratches are unavoidable, most of them are reparable with the right supplies.

Instructions

1

Mix two tablespoons of liquid dish detergent with one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Wash the scraped area of the vehicle with the soapy solution, using a microfiber cloth. Remove all dirt and grime from the scratch and surrounding paint.

2

Rinse the paint with water from a garden hose. Dry the paint thoroughly with a microfiber towel.

3

Wipe shoe polish over the scratch, using a microfiber applicator pad. Use a color of shoe polish that contrasts with the color of the vehicles paint, to better visualize the scratch. Apply enough shoe polish to fill the scratch.

4

Place ultra-fine 2,000-grit wet/dry sandpaper on a rubber sanding block. Fill a bowl with cold water and two drops of liquid dish detergent. Dip the sandpaper into the solution.

5

Sand the scratch with the sandpaper, using short, slow strokes at a 60-degree angle to the scratch. Apply light pressure on the sandpaper, until the shoe polish dissipates. Frequently dip the sandpaper into the solution, keeping it wet at all times.

6

Dry the sanded area thoroughly with a clean microfiber towel. Apply a generous amount of rubbing compound directly to the area. Buff the area, using an oscillating power buffer with a rubbing compound pad.

7

Wipe off the haze from the area with a terry cloth towel. Apply swirl mark eliminator compound directly to the area.

8

Remove the rubbing compound pad from the power buffer and replace it with a foam polishing compound pad. Buff the area with the power buffer and foam polishing compound pad to remove any remaining traces of the scratch.

9

Wipe the area thoroughly with a terry cloth towel to remove any remaining compound residue. Buff the area with car wax, using a clean microfiber cloth. Apply the car wax according to the manufacturers directions on the products label.

Historically, the Jeep is known to have been one of the first off-road vehicles on the front lines of many wars. The technology that made this vehicle a star player on the battlefield makes it desirable for adventurous drivers today. The Jeep 4.0-liter engine and exhaust package can deliver speeds fit for modern highways, but it can also deliver the torque to drive through rough terrain. If this legendary drive train has a weakness in design and material it would have to be the 4.0-liter factory header and exhaust package. Numerous owner complaints of leaky headers and manifolds should alert you that when purchasing a used Jeep you should consider these tips on how to change the exhaust on a Jeep.

Instructions

1

Drive the vehicle onto two automotive ramps and park it so that both front tires are sitting in the middle of the top of each vehicle ramp. Engage the parking brake and place blocks behind the rear wheels before beginning to work. Raise the hood and disconnect the positive cable from the battery and secure it away from its positive post.

2

Use a screwdriver to loosen the air tube from the throttle body. Pull the tube free and move it away from the work area. Disconnect the two vacuum tubes that exit the valve cover and keep them with the air tube assembly. Pliers and/or a screwdriver work well together to pull these hoses free.

3

Loosen and remove the bolts securing the fuel rail and fuel line. Many bolts in the Jeep are metric, as are these fuel rail bolts. Once the bolts are removed you can adjust the position of the fuel line and rail to a place that is out of the way of the exhaust manifold.

4

Disconnect the cables that enter and exit the intake manifold near the throttle body. These cables include the throttle cable and tans pressure cable. Models with cruise control include a cable for that too. Move all the disconnected equipment to the far side of the engine bay. Tie back with plastic tie straps to keep from falling into your work space.

5

Remove the protective cover inside the front wheel well that is nearest the exhaust manifold. Without this protector, the wheel well allows access to the header pipe and fasteners. From here you will remove the oxygen sensors that are inserted into the manifold and header pipe. Move the sensors to the far side of the engine bay and continue.

6

Disconnect the header pipe from the manifold. Move to the back of the catalytic converter and separate the catalytic converter and header pipe from the rest of the exhaust at the back of the Jeep. Pull the rest of the exhaust out of place by pulling the exhaust hangers free from the old exhaust, then use your reciprocating saw to cut portions of the exhaust apart for easier removal. Never cut or damage the old exhaust hangers as they will be used to hang the new cat-back exhaust.

7

Soak the exhaust manifold bolts for at least 20 minutes with penetrating oil. Begin to work the exhaust manifold bolts loose. Loosen the ones that come free easily and then continue to work the hard-to-remove ones with extra oil until they are all free. With all the bolts removed, begin tapping the manifold with a hammer until it breaks free from the engine. Pull the manifold out of the engine bay and clean the surface of the engine where the new manifold will go.

8

Install the new exhaust manifold with the gasket sitting between the engine and the manifold. Tighten all the bolts securely using a torque wrench set to 35 foot-pounds of pressure. Apply anti-seize compound on the manifold studs to allow for easy removal in the future. Once the new manifold is installed you can begin to reconnect the header pipe, oxygen sensors, throttle cable, transmission pressure cable, and air tube to their original locations using care to tighten each fitting correctly.

9

Hang and connect a new cat-back exhaust system using the original exhaust hangers and the flange that lets it connect to the existing catalytic converter. Run the new tail pipe and position the new muffler in place. Hang the parts using the factory exhaust hangers and tighten together with provided exhaust straps, then secure the exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter flange. With all the pieces together you have changed the exhaust on a Jeep and can expect improved performance and sound from a high-quality exhaust manifold and cat-back exhaust upgrade.

10

Connect the positive cable to the battery and close the hood. Drive the vehicle off the automotive ramps and test drive the new exhaust system you have installed. Expect to tighten fittings and fasteners again after the test drive to seat all these nuts and bolts securely.

A hydraulic torque wrench is an industrial torque wrench capable of tightening bolts accurately up to 150,000 foot-pounds of torque. Hydraulic torque wrenches are lightweight and portable devices; however, they require the use of a 10,000-psi pump. Setting up your hydraulic torque wrench is a relatively straightforward process that requires you to hook the pump up to the wrench head and set the necessary torque value using the air pressure of the pump.

Instructions

1

Connect a male 10,000-psi hydraulic pump hose from the female connection on the torque wrench to the female connection on the 10,000-psi pump.

2

Connect a female 10,000-psi hydraulic pump hose from the male connection on the torque wrench to the male connection on the 10,000-psi pump.

3

Twist the metal connectors on both ends of each hose clockwise until secure.

4

Connect the pump to an available power outlet if it is an electric pump or to an air-pressure source if it is an air-driven pump.

5

Locate the desired torque value on your torque conversion chart. Scroll over to determine the corresponding hydraulic pressure value that you must set on the pump.

6

Loosen the locking ring on the adjustable relief valve on the pump. Turn the thumbscrew clockwise to increase the amount of pressure the pump can contain or counterclockwise to decrease the amount of pressure the pump can contain.

7

Press and hold the "Advance" button on the pump remote control to fill the pump until the pump gauge reaches the desired pressure.

8

Tighten the locking ring on the adjustable relief valve once pressure is set to the desired level.

9

Connect the desired impact socket to the torque wrench head and insert the locking pinion into the socket.

10

Apply the torque wrench head to any bolt you wish to tighten, ensuring that the reaction arm (long portion of the torque wrench head) presses against an adjacent surface.

The Chevy Aveo comes with a standard car alarm that runs off of the cars battery. This alarm can be loud and obnoxious if you need to change out your battery or a tire on your car. You can disable the alarm by disconnecting it from its power supply. Because the alarm runs off of the battery, disconnecting it from the battery will disable it, leaving you in peace to make your repairs.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Aveo.

2

Locate the battery and attach a socket wrench to the batterys negative (-) terminal.

3

Turn the socket wrench counterclockwise to loosen the terminal.

4

Pull the terminal off of the battery to disable the Aveo alarm.

The Mazda 6 was first introduced in 2002 as a mid-sized sedan. If you are having problems starting your Mazda 6, there are several things that you can do before you take the car to a mechanic. The dials in your Mazda 6 will bounce if the engine is trying to crank. Some common problems are a low charge on the battery and no fuel in the gas tank. You can troubleshoot your Mazda 6 to find out the problem, but a major repair should only be handled by a professional mechanic.

Instructions

1

Turn the Mazda 6s key in the ignition. Listen for the engine to crank. If you dont hear the engine crank, you probably have a dead battery.

2

Open the hood of your Mazda 6 and look over the battery terminals. Use a socket wrench to tighten the terminals if needed.

3

Take the battery terminals off of the battery and pour a little bit of soda onto them. Scrub the areas with a wire brush to take any corrosion off.

4

Use jumper cables and another car to jump-start the Mazda 6. Leave the car running for about 10 minutes to get the battery charged. If you smell something like rotten eggs coming from your battery, you will need to replace it.

5

Add one gallon of gasoline to your Mazda 6 and then try to start the car. If your gas gauge is broken, you could be out of fuel.

You can adjust the emergency brake cables on your 1997 Ford F-150 yourself right from your home garage or driveway. This will save you a trip to the mechanic. When you park your F-150 on a downhill slope and the parking brake starts to slip, you know its time to adjust the cables on the parking brake. You just need a couple of tools purchased from your local auto parts retailer to get the job done. Start by parking the vehicle on level ground before making the adjustment.

Instructions

1

Step on the parking brake pedal, pressing it all the way to the floor.

2

Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels and chocks behind the front wheels.

3

Put the floor jack under the back end of the vehicle and lift it up high enough to slid the jack stands underneath the F150 next to each wheel. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

4

Get under the Ford and find the parking brake cable rod in the center of the vehicle. It is the rod with the cables coming to it. Hold the rod in place with your hand. Using pliers, tighten the equalizer nut about six turns.

5

Attach the cable tension gauge to the rear tension cable to measure and set the number of pounds of tension. Set the F-150s tension at 350 pounds.

6

Disengage the parking brake and spin the rear wheels to make sure they turn freely.

7

Adjust the parking brake equalizer nut so that it has a clearance of 0.38 mm if you find there is resistance when you spin the wheels.

8

Raise up the truck, remove the jack stands, lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the wheel chocks.

Bosch manufactures and distributes a wide variety of auto parts. Alongside products such as filters, alternators, brakes, starters and spark plugs, the company offers a number of turbine fuel pumps. Bosch fuel pumps most often serve as replacements in automobiles and feature such elements as polymer-encased armature, non-return valves and noise suppression coils.

Bosch In Tank 040 Fuel Pump

Bosch intends the in tank fuel pump as a replacement and recommends it for automobiles that exceed OE specifications. Made in a universal style, it is suitable for use in vehicles with a horsepower of up to 700. It has an open base inlet connection, M10 by 1.0 outlet connection and a positive M6 by negative M5 electrical connection. The minimum current is 12 volts with an operating pressure of 94 PSI, and the minimum flow at the outlet is 80 GPH, or 300 LPH. It weighs in at 2.05 pounds and has a high temperature reduction of 8 GPH.

Bosch Inline 044 Fuel Pump

This fuel pump mounts outside of the gas tank of a vehicle, or inline, and is generally centered in the rear. It can be used at the same time as a Bosch 040 fuel pump and with vehicles of up to 600 to 700 horsepower. It operates on a 12-volt current with a minimum 72.5 PSI. The inlet connection is M18 by 1.5, the electrical connection is a positive M6 by negative M5 and the outlet connection is M12 by 1.5. It has a high temperature reduction of 8 GPH, a minimum flow at the outlet of 80 GPH and weighs 1,030 grams, or 2.27 pounds.

Bosch Inline 909 Fuel Pump

This Bosch fuel pumps mounts in vehicles in an identical fashion as the 044. It offers the same minimum current and operating pressure as the above in line model, but the minimum flow at the outlet is considerably less at 39 GPH, or 148 LPH. The inlet and electrical fuel pump connections are also different, with a 12mm inlet connection and a positive M5 by negative M4 electrical connection, while the outlet connection remains the same at M12 by 1.5.

Other Bosch Inline Fuel Pumps

Bosch manufactures several other inline fuel pumps. The 910, 979, 911 and 984 models all mount identically in automobiles and run on a 12-volt minimum current. All but the 911 model, which has an operating pressure of 58 PSI, have an operating pressure of 72.5 PSI, and the minimum flow varies from 25.1 GPH to 43.6 GPH. The 910 and 979 models have identical outlet and electrical connections at M12 by 1.5 and positive M5 by negative M4, while the inlet connection of the former is 15 mm and of the latter is M14 by 1.5. Similarly, the 911 and 984 inline fuel pumps have identical electrical and outlet connections, while the inlet connections vary at 15 mm by 1.5 and 12 mm by 1.5 respectively.

Features and Benefits

Alongside the electrical and power specifications of specific models, all Bosch fuel pumps are made with certain core components. A noise suppression coil eliminates interference from radio frequencies, a non-return valve both reduces hot start problems and maintains the pressure of the system and a Bosch impeller ring allows for smooth fuel flow. Additionally, premium carbon brushes and spin-balanced, polymer-encased armature offers a longer service life and reduced vibration and noise.

When your Infiniti I30s diagnostic system detects a malfunction with the vehicle, it issues an error code. The SRS, or Supplemental Restraint System, light illuminates as a result of an error code related to the airbag system. You can disconnect the battery to reset the light but this resets the entire computer, so thats not the best option. Or you can obtain an OBD II scanner from an auto parts store to reset the computer and shut off the SRS light. This is the preferred way and takes just a few minutes of your time. Only reset the airbag after it has been inspected and, if necessary, repaired by a qualified mechanic.

Instructions

1

Locate the OBD port under the dashboard near the steering column.

2

Plug the OBD-II scanner into the OBD port, then power on the scanner.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position.

4

Wait for the error code to display on the face of the scanner. Select the "Erase" or "Clear" codes command. Wait while the scanner clears the code and returns to the main menu.

5

Unplug the scanner and start the engine. Verify that the SRS light has shut off of the instrument panel. The airbag is now reset.

Prolonged exposure to the elements of snow, rain, sleet, mud or any combination thereof can wreak havoc on the undercarriage of your vehicle. Over time, the metal can start to corrode allowing rust to set in and eat away at the metal base beneath your feet. Rust spots can start out very small but quickly grow, becoming a problem in need of attention. Fortunately, rust spots on your cars flooring can be fixed with a little patchwork.

Instructions

1

Remove the seat where the hole is located. If the bolts are locked down too tightly, remove the surrounding carpet.

2

Using your tin snips, cut away the rust from the hole. For precaution when welding the new metal, cut away an additional 1 1/2 inch to 2 inches of good metal. Pull away excess metal shards and pieces with vise grips.

3

Cut your sheet metal to cover the hole with a 1/2 inch to 1 inch overlap.

4

Using your 110 volt welder, weld the sheet metal to your metal flooring.

5

Weld in spots rotating around the covered hole to prevent warping the metal.

6

Spray one coat of rust inhibitor to the surface of the welded metal to prevent future rusting.

Electrical problems in the GMC Envoy have led to several recalls since 2004. Manufacturing defects in the wiring and sensor systems of these vehicles could potentially affect the operation of the cars exterior lighting, air bags and windshield wipers.

Exterior Lighting

General Motors recalled 871,473 model year 2002-2004 GMC Envoys in 2004 for electrical problems in the brake lights and rear turn signal lamps. Subsequently, 286,478 model year 2003-2004 GMC Envoy vehicles were recalled in 2005 for an electrical problem that could cause the rear turn signals to flash as hazard lights.

Air Bag Sensors

In 2006, a recall of certain 2005-2006 GMC Envoys equipped with aftermarket leather seat covers were recalled because of an electrical problem that can lead to malfunctioning of the passenger sensing system. The passenger side front air bag could be erroneously enabled or disabled by this defect, which could cause injury in the event of a crash.

Windshield Wipers

GMC recalled 581,394 2002-2003 GMC Envoy and Envoy XL vehicles in 2004 for electrical problems that could cause the windshield wipers to fail or short circuit. If a short circuit occurs, the components within the module may corrode. Either condition puts the driver at risk, especially during inclement weather.

All manual transmission vehicles have gear shift knobs in the floor or the center console. In addition, many newer model automatic transmissions also have the gear shift in the center of the vehicle. The knobs of the shifter are typically made of plastic and leather. Over time, the leather can wear out or get scratched and become unattractive. In these cases, you can remove the old shifter knob and replace it with a new one.

Instructions

1

Activate the parking brake for the vehicle to prevent it from rolling while you replace the shifter knob.

2

Move the gear shift knob to either 2nd, 4th or reverse if it is a manual transmission. If the car is an automatic transmission, put the gear shift in neutral.

3

Grasp the base of the gear shift knob in your hand and feel the base where it connects to the shaft. Push down on the plastic ring at the base to detach it from the shaft.

4

Grasp the top of the knob in one hand and pull upward with firm pressure to remove the knob from the shaft.

Firing order in a combustion engine is the order in which the spark plugs fire inside the cylinders. The firing order is important because the pistons all peak at different times during an engine cycle. The 1986 Ford LTD had several available engines.

240 V6

The 24- cubic-inch six-cylinder engine available in the 1986 Ford LTD had a firing order of 1, 5, 3, 6, 2 and 4. The distributor rotated in a clockwise direction as it fired.

255 and 302 V8

The 255-cubic-inch and 302-cubic-inch V-8 engines were used in the Ford LTD in 1986. For these engines, the distributor rotates in a counterclockwise direction and fires the spark plugs in the order of cylinders 1, 5, 4, 2, 6, 3, 7 and 8.

352 and 400 V8

The 352 and 400-cubic-inch V-8 engines in the 1986 Ford LTD had firing orders of cylinders 1, 5, 4, 2, 6, 3, 7 and 8 and the distributors spin in a counterclockwise direction.

390 and 427 V8

The 1986 Ford LTD is also used the 390 cubic inch and 427-cubic-inch V-8 engines. Their firing orders are 1, 3, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4 and 8. The distributors spin in a clockwise direction.

429 and 460 V8

The 429 and 460-cubic-inch V-8s have distributors that spin in a clockwise direction and fire the spark plugs in the order of cylinders 1, 3, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, and 8.

A motor mount does more than simply hold a motor in place. A motor mount utilizes a rubber bushing to hold a cars engine, which helps to dampen vibration and movement that can cause damage to the engine and surrounding components.

Noise and Vibration

A broken motor mount will cause a significant increase in noise and vibration. As the motor moves within the broken mount, the engine often strikes the mount, creating a loud thump. The normal vibration of the motor that is dampened by the mount will often also be transferred to the entire vehicle, causing a noticeable shake.

Engine Component Damage

As the motor moves, damage may also occur to the flexible hoses and wiring that run to the motor. While these parts are designed for flexibility, the sudden and longer movements of a motor that is not properly secured can pull wires and hoses loose as well as weaken them. A broken motor mount may also cause exhaust leaks.

Motor Mount Damage

When a motor mount is broken, the motor is allowed to move more than intended. This causes additional stress to the other motor mounts, which will quickly wear and may break under the added strain.

The Nissan Altima 2.5 is a four-door sedan. If you are having problems with your Nissan Altima 2.5 there are a few things that you can do before you take it to a Nissan dealership for repair. Common problems occur with the fuel, battery, and the cooling system. Checking these aspects of the car is not invasive and can be done by anybody with minimal knowledge of how the car works.

Instructions

1

Turn the key in the Altimas ignition to see if the instrument panel will turn on. If the instrument panel does turn on, check over the fuel level in the gas tank. If you dont have enough fuel to start the Altima fill it up. If the instrument panel does not come on, you have a problem with your battery.

2

Open the hood from the hood latch on the grill. Open the hood and then locate the battery next to the engine block. Check over the connections from the battery cables to the battery terminals on the battery. Make sure that the connections are tight so the electricity can flow to the car. Use channel locks to tighten the connections.

3

Test the battery if the car will not restart after the connections have been tightened. Use a voltmeter to test the 12-volt battery. If you are getting a reading below 11 volts, use a battery charger to charge the battery.

4

Connect the positive and negative leads from the battery charger to the battery. Plug the battery charger into an electrical outlet and allow the charger to charge your battery overnight. Try to start the car the next morning. If the car wont start, have the battery replaced.

5

Look over the cooling system if your Altima is overheating. The cooling system is on the left side of the engine block. A small tank holds the coolant. Check the coolant tank to make sure there is enough coolant in the system. Pour 50/50 coolant into the tank until it has reached the fill line to eliminate overheating.

Oxygen sensors (02 sensors) and the powertrain control module (PCM) of a vehicles engine work together to maintain an automobiles air-fuel ratio. Air-fuel ratio must be maintained for a vehicle to have low emissions and good fuel economy.

02 Sensor

02 sensors keep track of fuel mixture within a vehicle by reacting to oxygen in its exhaust that has not been burned. The sensor creates a voltage signal that goes up when air-fuel mixture gets rich and down when air-fuel mixture becomes lean.

PCM

The PCM reads the voltage signal from the 02 sensor and bases its decision on that information. If it reads a signal that indicates a rich mixture, it lowers the amount of fuel being sent to the engine to make the mixture lean again. If the signal indicates a lean mixture, it increases fuel to the engine to make the mixture rich again.

False Reading

A PCM can make the wrong decisions due to a bad 02 sensor. A faulty 02 sensor may signal a lean mixture even if thats not the case. This can lead to a vehicle burning more fuel.

The oxygen (O2) sensors on an Oldsmobile Aurora are a series of small sensors placed in the exhaust system that monitor the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. The O2 sensors relay this information to the engines computer so it can make adjustments to help the engine to run more efficiently and lower vehicle emissions. The Aurora is equipped with four O2 sensors, one in each exhaust manifold, one between the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter, and one after the catalytic converter. You can use a diagnostic code scanner to determine which sensor is malfunctioning. If you do not own a code scanner, take your Aurora to an auto parts store; many have code scanners and will check your car for free.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal by loosening the retaining bolt and pulling the clamp off the negative terminal. Secure the ground cable so that it cannot accidentally contact the negative battery terminal.

2

Raise the vehicle and support it with jack stands underneath the frame.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness from the sensor. Follow the wires connected to the sensor until you find a plastic wiring connector. Separate the wiring harness by pulling the connector apart.

4

Use a wrench to remove the sensor from the exhaust pipe or manifold.

5

Thread the new O2 sensor into the exhaust pipe or manifold, and tighten it.

6

Connect the wiring harness on the new O2 sensor to the plastic wiring connector that you removed from the old O2 sensor.

7

Lower the vehicle.

8

Reconnect the ground cable to the negative battery terminal. Tighten the retaining bolt that secures the ground cable to the negative battery terminal.

The heater core in your 1997 Ford F-150 is a radiator-style unit used to heat the interior of your truck. Coolant flows from the lower radiator hose to and through the heater core. This fluid heats the unit, and a blower fan forces warm air through the core and into the cabin when the heater is turned on. A faulty or clogged heater core will leak coolant onto the inside floorboard on the front passengers side. Replacing the heater core can be a complicated and time-consuming repair because of its location behind the passengers side dashboard.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood and disconnect both battery cables using a crescent wrench. Slide the recycling container underneath the radiator drain plug.

2

Remove the radiator fill cap. Loosen the radiator drain plug using a socket wrench to drain the radiator coolant. Once drained, replace the plug and tighten. Keep the recycling container in place to capture the excess coolant in the lower radiator hose.

3

Disconnect the lower radiator hose where it attaches at the radiator by loosening the squeeze-type hose clamp. Allow the excess fluid to drain into the recycling container.

4

Locate the heater core intake and return hose lines that protrude through the passengers side firewall of the engine compartment. Disconnect the hoses from the core nipples by depressing the release clip with a flat-head screwdriver while turning the hose counterclockwise by hand.

5

Detach the Torx screws under the front dashboard that hold the dashboard soft cover in place. Reach under the dashboard and remove the mounting bolts attaching the dashboard frame to the interior firewall. This will allow the entire dashboard assembly to swing free and give you enough clearance to access the heater cover and core downward from the windshield.

6

Detach the interior heater core intake and return hoses from the core nipples by releasing the squeeze clamps using channel-lock pliers. Remove the hoses by twisting as you pull. Disconnect the heater core ground cable strap that attaches to the interior firewall with a single bolt.

7

Take out the four outer mounting bolts holding the heater core cover in place. Remove the four mounting bolts attaching the actual heater core to the interior firewall. Maneuver the old unit out and up toward the windshield. Be careful not to spill the coolant inside the heater core.

8

Install the replacement heater core in reverse, downward from the windshield and behind the dashboard. Re-mount the heater core, the core cover and the ground cable strap.

9

Reattach the intake and return hoses carefully to the core nipple on the firewall. The nipple hoses are different diameters to prevent you from incorrectly crossing the connection hoses.

10

Connect the dashboard frame and cover in reverse of the removal. Tighten all the mounting bolts. Be sure that the airbag remained connected during the repair. If it didnt, reconnect as necessary.

11

Reconnect the hoses located in the engine compartment at the firewall core nipple by snapping the hoses in place. Connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator and secure it in place using its squeeze-type hose clamp.

12

Refill the radiator with a 55/45 mixture of new anti-freeze and distilled water. Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Run the engine for several minutes to flush out any trapped air within the cooling system.

13

Test the replacement heater core by turning the heater on and off continually, observing the change in temperature. Check for leaks at all hose connections.

Exhaust "headers" are replacement manifolds designed to increase your engines performance. In racing or performance applications both automotive and motorcycle, they are often wrapped with a heat shielding substance. There are a few simple reasons to wrap your exhaust.

Under Hood Temperatures

In automotive applications, exhaust wraparound headers helps reduce under hood temperatures allowing for cooler air intake. Cooler air intake produces higher horsepower, as cooler air contains more oxygen, which aids the burning process in the cylinder. Exhaust wraps under the hood can reduce temperatures significantly.

Velocity

Theoretically, exhaust wrap helps contain exhaust heat, making the exhaust gases move more rapidly away from the engine and towards the tail pipe. This increased exhaust velocity increases potential horsepower by evacuating the cylinder more quickly and allowing the piston to move upward with less resistance.

Scavenging

The velocity also helps with scavenging, or the removal of combustion waste or exhaust from the cylinder more completely. This results in a cleaner, faster burn of the fuel air mix on the next piston stroke. The increased scavenging results in more efficient combustion and potential horsepower.