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Ford started production of the Ford Focus in 1999. The models made from 1999 to 2007 were the first generation of this series. The standard engine in the 2003 Focus has four cylinders and a displacement of 2.0 liters. The timing belt on this vehicle synchronizes the movements between the crankshaft and the camshaft. The tension on the timing belt is a critical factor in its installation.

Instructions

1

Open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with socket wrench. Turn the drive belt tensioner clockwise to reduce the tension on the accessory drive belt. Remove the drive belt. Disconnect the tensioner with a socket wrench. Remove the timing belt cover.

2

Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench and disconnect the right splash shield. Remove the pulley for the crankshaft.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Loosen the tensioner bolt on the timing belt with a socket wrench. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise by 1/4 turn with an 8mm Allen wrench. Place a 1/8-inch drill bit into the hole on the timing belt tensioner to hold the belt tensioner in place. Remove the timing belt.

4

Install the new timing belt onto the crankshaft by proceeding in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the drill bit from the hole in the timing belt tensioner. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two turns so that the timing marks align once again. Torque the tensioner bolt for the timing belt to between 15 and 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Install the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench and tighten its mounting bolt to between 81 and 96 foot-pounds. Connect the right splash shield and the right front wheel. Lower the vehicle and replace the timing belt cover. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and mount the drive belt. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Chrysler sells a line of Ram pickup trucks under its Dodge brand. The 1998 models belonged to the second generation of Rams, which were in production from 1994 to 2001. The procedure for replacing the water pump in a 1998 Dodge truck depends primarily on its engine. The most common engine in this vehicle is an 8-cylinder 5.2-liter engine that runs on gasoline. The water pump is accessible from the engine compartment and is located in front of the engine block.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable on the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from inadvertently starting the engine during the water pump replacement. Place a container under the drain hole for the radiator and remove the radiator drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the accessory drive belt with a socket wrench, and detach the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Remove the heater hose from the water pump if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Detach the upper radiator hose from the radiator with a socket wrench. Disconnect the cooling fan assembly from the engine block, including the fan shroud. Remove the bolts for the water pump pulley and detach the pulley from the engine block.

4

Remove the mounting bolt for the heater hose pipe with a socket wrench. Release the clamp for the bypass hose on the water pump and detach the bypass hose. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump, and remove the water pump.

5

Install the new water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the bypass hose to the water pump and attach the clamp for the hose. Apply sealant to the threads on the heater hose pipe. Connect the heater hose pipe, and tighten the mounting bolt to 12 foot-pounds. Spin the water pump to ensure the impeller for the water pump does not contact the timing chain case.

6

Connect the pulley for the water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the cooling fan assembly and connect the hoses to the radiator. Attach the accessory drive belt. Fill the radiator with coolant and check for leaks in the cooling system.

The heater in the 1992 Mazda B2600 is a radiator that uses hot coolant from the engine to heat the cab of the truck. The procedure for replacing the heater is the same for all Mazda trucks made from 1987 to 1993.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure the engine doesnt start while replacing the heater. Put a drain pan under the radiator, and open the drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain from the radiator, and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the shield for the water valve on the heaters left side with a socket wrench. Detach the coolant hoses from the heater, and remove the housing for the control cable from its mounting clip on the heater. Disconnect the cable wires from the heaters crank arms. Detach the electrical connector from the fan motor.

3

Remove the glove compartment with a socket wrench to provide clearance for the heater. Disconnect the retaining nuts for the heater that are inside the glove compartment. Detach the defroster ducts from the heater, and pull the heater from the dashboard.

4

Mount the new heater to the dashboard, and align the mounting studs on the heater with the corresponding holes in the dashboard. Fasten the mounting nuts for the heater, and attach the defroster ducts to the heater. Attach the control cable for the defrost door for the heater to the crank arm.

5

Turn the upper control lever to the heat position, and push the crank arm for the heater towards its mounting clip as far as possible. Attach the cable housing to the clip, and fasten the clip to the heater with a socket wrench.

6

Attach the control cable for the water valve to the lever for the water valve. Set the heaters control lever to the hot setting, and push the crank arm for the lever as far towards the mounting clip for the control cable as possible. Fasten the screw for the clip with a socket wrench.

7

Insert the control cable for the recirculation door into the doors crank arm. Bend the cable, and fasten it into place with the retaining screw. Move the center control lever to the REC setting, and push the crank arm for the recirculation door toward the mounting clip as far as possible.

8

Attach the housing for the recirculation door cable to its clip, and fasten the retaining screw for the clip with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fan motor. Attach the coolant hoses to the tubes on the left side of the heater, and fasten the hose clamps. Connect the shield for the heaters water valve with the retaining screws, and install the glove compartment.

9

Replace the coolant in the radiator, and reconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Check for coolant leaks, and ensure the heater is functioning properly.

The catalytic converter on your Saturn SL2 bolts to a flange on the rear of the head pipe coming off the engine. A clogged converter can cause the engine to run very rough and will build up excessive amounts of heat under your car, which can radiate into the passenger compartment through the floorboards. While many people shy away from exhaust work, you can change the converter at home in the driveway and save yourself a potentially large repair bill.

Instructions

1

Position a jack under the front of your SL2 and raise the front end off the ground so you can work underneath it. Place a set of jack stands under the front suspension then lower the jack, allowing the car to settle onto the jack stands.

2

Slide under the car near the back of the front wheels. The catalytic converter attaches to the head pipe near the rear of the engine with four bolts and a mounting flange. Loosen the nuts on the four bolts with a socket and ratchet, but do not remove them yet.

3

Locate the exhaust clamp on the pipe at the rear of the catalytic converter where it joins the rear exhaust pipe. Remove the two nuts from the clamp, then remove the clamp from the pipe. Move to the front of the converter and remove the four mounting bolts that you loosened earlier, then lower the front of the converter away from the head pipe.

4

Pull the converter forward, sliding it out of the rear pipe. Lower it to the ground and remove it from under the car.

5

Position a new converter under the car and raise it until you can slide the rear fitting on the converter into the rear pipe. Slide it in far enough to allow you to raise the front flange to the flange on the head pipe.

6

Install a new brass gasket between the front flanges, then install the four mounting bolts and nuts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other. Install a new exhaust clamp on the rear pipe and tighten the nuts to secure it. Do not over-tighten it, or you will crush the exhaust pipe.

7

Move out from under the car and raise it off the jack stands with a jack. Remove the jack stands then set the car on its wheels. Remove the jack from under the car.

Mercedes-Benz vehicles are well known for their prestige and luxury, but despite their high reputation, they still encounter problems from time-to-time. One of the more common problems that can occur with a 2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK 320 is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. The most noticeable symptom of a faulty crankshaft position sensor on a 2001 SLK 320 is an engine that cranks but wont start. This is because the powertrain control module, or PCM, cannot determine when to fire the spark plugs inside the engine cylinders. Because the crankshaft position sensor is a non-serviceable part, it must be replaced when faulty.

Instructions

Removal

1

Engage the parking brake and open the hood. Remove the plastic engine paneling by lifting up on it until it pops loose.

2

Pull the intake tube out of the air cleaner box, and then remove the intake tube from the throttle body outlet by gently pulling on it. Pull the air cleaner housing off of the cylinder head cover and then remove the entire air cleaner assembly from the engine bay.

3

Locate the crankshaft position sensor on the back side of the engine block, next to the transmission bell housing, between the firewall and the left cylinder head. The sensor is black and has a single black wire connector attached to it.

4

Disconnect the sensors electrical connector and remove the bolt holding the sensor to the engine block. Pull the sensor out of the engine block. If it stubborn, caully remove it using a slip-joint pliers, moving slowly to ensure that the sensor doesnt break off inside the block.

Installation

5

Grease the sensor with a small amount of clean engine oil and insert it into the block until its fully-seated. Reinstall the sensors retaining bolt and tighten it to 71-inch pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Reconnect the crank sensors electrical connector.

7

Set the air cleaner assembly into position and press it down on top of the cylinder head cover until it snaps into place. Reconnect the air cleaner tube to the air box and the throttle body air housing.

8

Place the plastic engine paneling in position on top of the engine and press down on it until it locks in place. Plug the Mercedes-Benz Star Diagnosis scan tool into the vehicles communication port and run the CKP re-sync procedure.

Compressed air hoses are powerful tools for workers in a variety of industries. While their power can speed up the pace of work, they can be extremely dangerous if used past their prime. A few key signs indicate when it is time to replace a compressed air hose.

Kinking

If a compressed air hose is permanently kinked, it is time to replace the hose. A backup of compressed air at the kinked area could lead to an explosion, which could be deadly.

Fraying or Cracking

The fraying of the protective fabric surrounding a compressed air hose -- or the cracking of the rubber if no fabric is present -- is a sign that the compressed air hose needs to be replaced. The rapid escape of compressed air from a hole in the hose can cause serious injury to workers and bystanders.

Bending

If a compressed air hose is bent, it needs to be replaced as soon as possible. Bending of a compressed air hose can drastically alter the air flow and potentially create an accident leading to serious injury.

Pressure Ratings

Each compressed air hose is rated to withstand a maximum pounds per square inch in air pressure. If a compressed air hose is not rated to withstand the compressor it is fitted to, it is time to replace the hose.

Maintenance

Compressed air hoses should be cleaned regularly using soapy water, not kerosene or other flammable material. After cleaning, make sure the compressed air hose is completely purged. While doing maintenance work on the compressed air hose, make sure the compressor or other equipment is attached to is turned off.

A diesel engine is an option for many Dodge vehicles, especially heavy trucks. An eight-cylinder 5.9-liter diesel engine is available for the 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 3/4 ton pickup. This engine uses fuel injection and requires an injection pump to keep the fuel under pressure. The procedure for replacing the diesel injection pump is the same for all full-size Dodge trucks made from 2001 to 2005.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Remove the throttle linkage and its bracket. Disconnect the fuel drain manifold, and detach the fuel lines from the injection pump. Remove the fuel air control tube and the connector for the fuel shut-off valve from the injection pump. Disconnect the support bracket and oil fill tube from the injector pump.

2

Put a shop rag over the opening in the injector pumps gear cover. Remove the gear retaining nut and washer for the injector pump with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench until the top dead center pin on the crankshaft drops into the gear timing hole. Pull the pin from the gear timing hole.

3

Remove the lock screw and its washer from the injection pump with a socket wrench. Tighten the lock screw to 22 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench, then push the drive gear for the injection pump from the drive shaft. Disconnect the mounting nuts for the injection pump with a socket wrench. Remove the injection pump from the crankcase.

4

Install the new injection pump and tighten the mounting nuts by hand, ensuring that the pump can move freely within its slots. Connect the drive gear to the drive shaft with its retaining nut and washer. Tighten the nut to between 11 and 15 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Rotate the injection pump counterclockwise to take up gear lash. Tighten its mounting nuts to 18 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the support bracket for the injection pump. Tighten the nut for the pump drive gear to 48 ft. lbs.

6

Connect the oil filler tube and connector valve for the fuel shut-off valve to the injector pump. Attach the fuel lines to the injector pump. Install the fuel drain manifold and throttle linkage with a socket wrench. Connect the cables for the negative battery terminals.

7

Loosen the bleed bolt on the fuel rail with a socket wrench. Push the primer button on the fuel transfer pump until the fuel coming from the bleed screw no longer has air bubbles. Tighten the bleed screw to 72 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The Hyundai Elantra is a series of compact cars that Hyundai has manufactured since 1990. The 2000 model represents the last year of the second generation Hyundai, which had a 4-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine as its standard engine. This engine uses a timing belt to synchronize the movement of the camshaft and crankshaft as opposed to a timing chain. The timing belt in a 2000 Hyundai requires replacement approximately every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect any components necessary to access the cover of the timing belt. Remove the timing belt cover with a socket wrench.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the No. 1 piston at the top dead center position as indicated by the timing marks on the crankshaft. Disconnect the tensioner for the timing belt and the idler pulley with a socket wrench. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket.

3

Turn the camshaft sprocket clockwise to align its timing marks and ensure the timing marks for the crankshaft timing are still aligned. Connect the tensioner for the timing belt with a socket wrench, but do not tighten the pulley bolt for the tensioner. Install the idler pulley and tighten its mounting bolt to between 32 and 41 foot-pounds.

4

Place the timing belt over the sprocket of the camshaft, then over the sprocket of the crankshaft. Turn the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise to place tension on the timing belt. Apply 5 pounds of force to the middle of the longest span of the timing belt. The deflection of the timing belt will be between 0.16 inches and 0.24 inches when the timing belt is at the correct tension.

5

Tighten the pulley bolt for the timing belt tensioner to between 32 and 41 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise by one turn to align the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket. Adjust the timing belt tension as required.

6

Replace the cover for the timing belt. Install any additional components that you removed in step one to access the timing belt.

The 1989 model year brought a complete redesign of Nissans flagship sedan, the Maxima. Experts considered this version of the Maxima the most beautiful to date, and it was also significantly larger than previous models. The 1989 Maxima uses just one oxygen sensor to monitor the level of oxygen in the exhaust and send this information to the electronic control unit. The ECU then uses this information to adjust the air-to-fuel ratio in the combustion chamber to keep the Maxima at peak performance.

Instructions

Removal

1

Raise the front of the Maxima with a floor jack and slide jack stands under the vehicles subframe. Lower the Maxima onto the jack stands.

2

Crawl under the middle of the vehicle and find the front pipe, the exhaust pipe just before the catalytic converter. Find the oxygen sensor screwed into the front pipe, just before the catalytic converter.

3

Spray the base of the oxygen sensor with penetrating oil and allow it to sit for the time specified in the penetrating oil instructions.

4

Trace the oxygen sensors wiring upward until you find where the sensors wiring harness plugs into the Maximas wiring harness. Unplug the oxygen sensors wiring harness.

5

Remove the oxygen sensor from the front pipe, using a ratchet and oxygen sensor socket.

Installation

6

Apply a coating of anti-seize compound to the new oxygen sensors threads and hand-tighten the sensor into the front pipe.

7

Tighten the sensor to 15 foot-pounds using a torque wrench and oxygen sensor socket.

8

Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the inside of the oxygen sensors wiring harness and plug the sensors harness into the Maximas wiring harness.

9

Raise the vehicle off the jack stands and remove the stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

The 2003 Ford Expedition features both a left and right side view mirror. These mirrors are important for backing up the large SUV and for keeping a caul eye on traffic behind the vehicle. Because of its larger size, the Expedition is a hard vehicle to back up while looking out the back window, and it takes a certain amount of skill to be able to do so.

Instructions

1

Open the door on the Expedition with the mirror that needs to be replaced.

2

Lower the window all the way down then turn the ignition off and remove the key.

3

Remove the outer screw located on the rear side of the door panel with a flat head screwdriver.

4

Remove the two retaining bolts located at the bottom of the door panel with a 7 mm socket wrench.

5

Pry off the door handle cover with a pry tool.

6

Remove the window control module cover with the pry tool and disconnect the wire harness connections under the cover.

7

Pry off the panel under the door pull bar with the pry tool then remove the two screws under the panel. Use the T-27 Torx head screwdriver to remove the screws.

8

Pry around the bottom and side of the door panel with the pry tool. When the retaining snaps are all unseated, reach behind the door panel and disconnect any remaining wire harness connections. Remove the door panel.

9

Disconnect the side view mirror wire harness.

10

Remove the three retaining bolts located on the door frame opposite the side view mirror with an 11 mm socket wrench. Be caul not to allow the mirror to fall and scratch the door when removing the last retaining bolt.

11

Feed the wire harness out through the access hole of the door frame and remove the old mirror.

12

Install the new mirror by reversing Steps 9 through 11.

13

Reinstall the door panel by reversing Steps 3 through 8.

If the Check Engine light is on in your 1998 Toyota Sienna, the oxygen sensor may be the cause. The oxygen sensor reads the oxygen levels in the exhaust and reports those levels to your trucks computer. If the sensor is failing, you may notice a decrease in your fuel efficiency. If you suspect that your O2 sensor is bad, many auto parts stores will scan the computer to determine the cause of your Check Engine light.

Instructions

1

Raise the truck using a jack and place it on a set of jack stands. Make sure it is raised enough to comfortably work under it.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor on the exhaust pipe just beyond the catalytic converter, toward the back of the truck. The sensor protrudes from the pipe on the passenger side of the vehicle.

3

Disconnect the electrical connection on the sensor. The connector should pull straight out of the sensor.

4

Remove the nuts on either side of the sensor using a socket and ratchet. Set the nuts aside in a safe place.

5

Remove the sensor from the pipe by pulling it straight out. Remove the gasket if it does not come out with the sensor.

6

Insert a new gasket and then insert the sensor into the mounting space on the exhaust pipe. Secure the sensor with the two nuts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet.

7

Connect the electrical connection to the sensor. The connector will plug straight into the sensor.

8

Raise the truck with a jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Toyotas Camry has been the best-selling vehicle in its class for eight years straight and ranks high on U.S. News review lists. When you find the light output from your Camry decreasing it is likely time for you to replace your headlight bulbs. Replacing your bulbs is easy and will increase your nighttime visibility.

Instructions

1

Turn your Camry off and switch the light selector to the "Off" position. Allow the vehicle to cool for several minutes if it has been running. Headlight bulbs operate at high temperatures and can easily burn you.

2

Open the hood by releasing the interior and exterior safety latches. Lock the hood in the open position.

3

Grasp the headlight bulb assembly and turn it counterclockwise to remove it from the socket.

4

Remove the bulb from the electrical connector by depressing the tab and pulling it out. There is very little room to maneuver behind the headlight assembly so be caul not to damage the bulb or hurt yourself.

5

Insert the new bulb into the connector. Slide it into the headlight assembly and lock in place by twisting the bulb clockwise.

6

Test the bulb by turning the light selector to the "On" position. If the bulb fails to illuminate check the electrical connection and then the bulb itself.

The exhaust gas recirculation valve is an essential part of your engines emissions system. Its job is to recirculate a precisely measured amount of exhaust gases back into the engine, thereby decreasing unwanted nitrogen oxide emissions. On older model vehicles, the EGR valve is typically mechanically controlled. With newer model vehicles, the EGR valve is most commonly electronically controlled.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, using the socket wrench and the appropriate sized socket.

2

Locate the ERG valve on your engine. It will either be bolted to the intake manifold or the exhaust manifold depending on your 3.8 engine.

3

Disconnect the air supply hose, vacuum hose and/or electrical connections from the EGR valve. You might need the screwdrivers for this step.

4

Remove all the bolts that mount the EGR valve to the intake manifold/exhaust manifold, using the socket wrench with the appropriate size socket.

5

Remove the old EGR valve and gasket.

6

Install the new gasket and EGR valve after making sure the mounting surfaces are clean. You may use the putty knife for this step.

7

Attach all hoses, wiring and bolts that were previously disconnected.

8

Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery, and then take the vehicle out on a test drive.

The 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix (available as a two-door coupe or a four-door sedan) typically has a six-cylinder 3.8-liter engine. The purpose of the ignition module is to control the electrical current to the spark plugs. The ignition module in the 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix is on top of the engine. The procedure for replacing the ignition module is similar for all Pontiac Grand Prix models with a 3.8-liter engine made from 1997 to 2000.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This will reduce the risk of electrocution while replacing the ignition assembly.

2

Label the wires to the spark plugs with tape to facilitate the installation of the new ignition module. You must reconnect the spark plug wires to their correct locations on the ignition assembly. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the ignition coils.

3

Remove the mounting screws for the ignition coils with a socket wrench and disconnect the ignition coils from the ignition module. Remove the fasteners for the ignition module and disconnect it from the engine.

4

Install the ignition coils to the new ignition module and fasten the retaining screws for the ignition coil. Torque the retaining screws to 40 inch-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect the spark plug wires to the ignition coils according to the labels you made in step 2. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

Introduced in 2005, the Chevy Cobalt is a compact car meant to replace the Cavalier. To save yourself a little money, you can make some repairs yourself like replacing the muffler. You can choose a new or used muffler, as both are usually affordable. Youll know its time to replace the muffler when it makes loud banging or shooting sounds when you accelerate. This is usually due to holes or other breaks in the muffler.

Instructions

1

Verify your Chevy Cobalt needs a new muffler by looking under the car towards the back. The muffler will be a large, round piece at the end of a long pipe. If there are holes in the muffler or if its missing, you must install a new one.

2

Purchase a new or used muffler. The same muffler will fit all Cobalt models. It should have a 2.25-inch center inlet/outlet. Plus, the width will measure 9.75 inches wide and the length measuring 13 inches long, and its made from aluminized steel.

3

Place an old blanket or a large piece of cardboard on the ground beneath the rear part of the Cobalt. This will provide a place to lie on the ground as you replace the muffler. It isnt necessary to lift the truck up on a jack or car lift, but it can make it easier to repair.

4

Remove the old exhaust system. Loosen any bolts around the muffler and take the muffler off. If the muffler is welded on, you can trying breaking it free with a sledge hammer if its already loose; otherwise, use a hacksaw to cut it free.

5

Compare the old muffler against the tail pipe of the new muffler. Saw off some of the new tail pipe with a hack saw, if its too long. You dont want your tail pipe sticking out too far. Put on the exhaust tip on the end of the pipe.

6

Install the new muffler on your Chevy Cobalt. Line it up straight with the clamps and then tighten the bolts to hold it in place at the back end of the muffler. Tighten all clamps and bolts around the muffler. The bolts should not be too tight because the muffler needs to move slightly to prevent damage; however, they need to be tight enough to prevent the muffler from falling off.

The 1995 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI engine has one oxygen sensor that detects the oxygen saturation in the exhaust and relays the information to the engines computer to regulate the fuel consumption. When a sensor fails, the "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light may illuminate on your dash. If the light is on and your fuel mileage has significantly decreased, replace the sensor as soon as possible to save needless expense.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the Bonneville. Locate the oxygen sensor threaded into the exhaust manifold near the front of the engine compartment.

2

Pull the electrical connection apart to disconnect it from the sensor. Remove the sensor with a wrench.

3

Coat the threads of the new sensor with electrical anti-seize compound. Install it by hand to avoid cross-threading. Torque the sensor to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

4

Push the electrical connector together until it clicks. Lower the hood.

Headlight maintenance is an important part of driver safety, and failure to keep the headlights of a vehicle in working order may result in serious injury to the driver. However, replacing a headlight is usually simple. This is especially true for a 2006 VW Beetle.

Instructions

1

Open the hood.

2

Loosen the plastic housing surrounding the headlights by pushing back on the black lever above the headlights.

3

Remove the plastic housing.

4

Disconnect the electrical connector by clicking the tabs together and pulling it out gently.

5

Remove the headlamp unit from the vehicle.

6

Remove the black plastic tab on the back of the headlamp unit by pulling on it.

7

Remove the side clips on the headlamp unit and remove the wire clip securing the headlight bulb into place.

8

Pull the burned out bulb from the headlamp unit. Use a paper towel to install the replacement bulb by pushing it into the headlamp unit.

9

Reattach the wire clips and the side clips.

10

Lock the black plastic tab onto the back of the headlamp unit.

11

Reconnect the electrical connector by plugging it into the headlamp unit.

12

Place the unit back into the vehicle and reattach the plastic housing. Close the vehicles hood.

A steering gear controls an automobiles movement and should be properly maintained on a regular basis. To find out whether you need to replace your steering gear, check the condition of the fluid and hoses. If the fluid is contaminated or the hoses are worn, replace the steering gear immediately before taking the vehicle out on the road. Check a shop manual specific to your vehicle for correct specifications.

Instructions

1

Disconnect and cover both of the fluid lines to stop any leakage or contamination. Mark and disconnect the steering shaft coupler. The steering shaft can only be completely removed once the steering gear is taken out.

2

Raise the vehicle on a car lift. Use a wrench to remove the Pitman arm from the shaft. If you dont have a car lift, then a car jack and jack stands will work just as well.

3

Use a wrench to remove the mounting bolts holding the gear case to the frame. Slide the steering gear away from the car. Take the steering shaft out of the vehicle.

4

Mount the new gear casing into the frame and secure it in place with the mounting bolts. Align the Pitman arm to the shaft and tighten it in place with the wrench.

5

Attach the coupler to the steering shaft and connect it to the gear casing. Reconnect the two fluid lines and replace the fluid. Find a quiet road to test the steering gear before taking the vehicle out on a busy thoroughfare.

The 1998 Chevy Blazer has three oxygen (O2) sensors. Two are located up on the front Y-pipe bolted to the V-6 engines manifold. These two sensors detect the fuel-to-air mix in the exhaust and transmit that information to the powertrain control module (PCM). From there, the PCM makes adjustments to achieve the lowest emissions possible while still running properly. The last O2 sensor is located after the catalytic converter. This sensors job is to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake to lock the rear wheels.

2

Open the hood to the 1998 Chevy Blazer to allow some light down into the engine compartment. This will be helpful when under the vehicle to replace the front oxygen sensor(s). If you are replacing the rear sensor, opening the hood is not necessary.

3

Lift one front side of the Blazer up high enough to rest it on a jack stand and then lift the other side and rest that side on a jack stand.

4

Put on the safety glasses and crawl underneath the Blazer to locate the oxygen sensor(s) being replaced. One is located on the left-side Y-pipe up near the manifold connection, the other is on the right-side Y-pipe near the manifold and the rear sensor is located in the catalytic converter pipe just behind the shell of the converter.

5

Unlock the wire harness plug from the O2 sensor plug. Use the small screwdriver to press inward and release the lock while pulling the O2 sensor plug and wire away from the wire harness plug.

6

Spray penetrating oil around the threaded connection of the O2 sensor where it screws into the O2 sensor port of the exhaust piping. Allow the oil a few minutes to soak in.

7

Thread the O2 sensor wire through the closed end of the 22 mm wrench and then place the closed end of the wrench onto the sensors hex-head. Turn the wrench to the left (counterclockwise) to remove it from the port. Remove the sensor.

8

Inspect the threads of the replacement sensor. Most will come with a light coating of special anti-seize compound already on the threads. Some O2 sensor manufacturers will provide a small tube inside the box. If applying the compound, be sure to avoid getting the compound on the thimble-tip of the sensor. Only place a small amount on the threads of the sensor.

9

Thread the sensor into the port by hand to avoid crossing the threads of the sensor. Tighten the sensor with the wrench after threading the wire through the closed end again. Only tighten the sensor snugly. Over-tightening the sensor risks stripping the threads of the sensor and/or possibly damaging the threads to the sensor port.

10

Connect the replacement sensor wire plug to the wire harness plug before crawling out from under the Blazer with the tools and old sensor(s) and lowering the vehicle.

The Kia Spectra is a compact car produced from 2000 to 2009. The second generation of this series includes the 2004 through 2009 models, and represents a major redesign over the first generation Kia. The only engine available for the 2005 Kia in North American is a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This design uses a timing belt to drive the camshafts with the crankshaft. The most important part of replacing the timing belt is keeping the crankshaft and camshafts in the correct position during the procedure.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure you dont inadvertently start the engine. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the engine cover, right wheel and side cover for the right wheel. Detach the accessory drive belts, water pump pulley and upper cover for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise to align the groove on the pulley with the timing mark on the lower timing belt cover. Disconnect the pulley and flange for the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Remove the lower timing belt cover and timing belt tensioner. Detach the timing belt from the pulleys.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks for the crankshaft and camshaft. Install the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Place the new timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets and timing belt tensioner in that order.

4

Turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise to apply tension to the timing belt. Press the tension side of the timing belt with moderate force. The tension is correct when the deflection of the timing belt is about 0.2 in. Tighten the mounting bolts for the tensioner to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two full turns and align the timing marks once again.

5

Attach the lower timing belt cover and tighten its mounting bolts to between six and seven ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the flange and pulley for the crankshaft. Tighten the bolt for the crankshaft pulley to between 123 and 130 ft. lbs. Connect the upper timing belt cover and tighten the mounting bolts to between six and seven ft. lbs.

6

Install the water pump pulley and accessory drive belts with a socket wrench. Attach the right wheel and side cover for the right wheel. Replace the engine cover and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.