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The fuel pump switch is also known as the inertia switch, a device that prevents fuel from going to the engine if your 1991 Ford Explorer happens to get into a collision. It also enables the fuel pressure to be relieved.

Location

The inertia switch can be found mounted on the floor pan on the passenger side inside your Explorer; look below the heater unit. It will have an electrical connector attached to it.

Servicing the Fuel System

Disconnect the electrical connector that is attached to the inertia switch when performing a task such as relieving the fuel pressure on your Ford Explorer. Whenever youve finished servicing the fuel system, reattach the electrical connector to the switch. You do not need any tool for removing and attaching the connector.

Reset Button

The inertia switch also has a reset button at the top to use in the event the switch was activated during a procedure like relieving the fuel pressure, which would create a popping-like sound. Simply push the button to reset the switch if this occurs.

Occasionally, even after changing the engine oil on your 2005 Monte Carlo, the "Change Oil" light will still stay on. If this occurs, you must reset the light manually through one of two methods. The first method involves the accelerator pedal, and the second involves the radio. If you have an aftermarket radio, you will not be able to perform the second method.

Instructions

Accelerator Method

1

Turn the Monte Carlos engine off. Leave the keys in the ignition in the "Run" position.

2

Press and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds. The "Change Oil" light will flash twice and then turn off.

3

Repeat this procedure if it did not work the first time. The accelerator pedal must be fully pressed and released each time, and it must be completed three times within five seconds.

Radio Method

4

Turn the Monte Carlos engine off. Leave the keys in the ignition in the "Run" position.

5

Press and hold the "TUNE" button for five seconds. "SETTINGS" will now appear on the radio display.

6

Press the "SEEK P-TYPE" button to scroll through the options on the display. Stop when "OIL LIFE" is displayed.

7

Press the "1 PREV" button to scroll through the sub-menu. When "RESET" is displayed, press the "TUNE" button to confirm. A beep will emit from the speakers, confirming the reset procedure. "DONE" will appear on the display.

8

Press the "TUNE" button to exit the program. One more beep will be heard to confirm the exit.

Newer Toyota Camrys are equipped with a bell that warns you to put on your seat belt before starting the car. Some people find it annoying and wish to turn off the chiming. There are instructions in the owners manual on how to do this. You dont need any special tools to turn off this seat belt warning and it will only take a few moments of your time.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the on position, but do not start the engine.

2

Look for a tiny knob on the instrument panel and press it to toggle between the odometer reading and the trip odometer reading. Keep pressing the knob until you see "ODO." Turn off the vehicle.

3

Turn the ignition on but dont crank the engine. Pull the tiny knob out for 10 seconds. While still holding the knob out, put on your seat belt and keep holding the knob for another 5 seconds then release it. The instrument panel will now read "B off."

4

Repeat the above procedure to turn the seat belt warning chime back on.

Defective vehicles that are not able to be repaired are known as "lemons." Vehicle manufacturers must repair, und or replace them in the state of Minnesota.

Duty to Repair

Dealers must repair the vehicle if it fails to conform to express warranties, regardless of the expiration of the warranty or the passage of two years after original delivery date.

Duty to Refund or Replace

Dealers in Minnesota must either replace the vehicle with one of similar value, or und the purchase price within 30 days. The amount is reduced by the lower of ten cents per every mile driven, or ten percent of the original purchase price. Buyers may opt for unds.

Presumption of Non-conformity

If the vehicles braking or steering completely fails to operate, the vehicle is presumed to fail its warranty conformity. The failure must be likely to cause death or serious bodily harm.

Required Consumer Language

Lemon law in Minnesota dictates that buyers must notify dealers, in writing, of any vehicle defects. They must allow the dealer the chance to repair the vehicle, and may submit claims to arbitration.

A 1994 Ford F450 truck uses a high-pressure fuel pump thats part of an in-tank reservoir assembly, or ITR. The ITR also includes a shuttle selector valve, a supply check valve and a venture jet pump. Your fuel pump must be compatible with your trucks specific engine. The engine in a 1994 Ford F450 may be a 7.3L Diesel, 7.3L Turbo Diesel or 7.5L engine. All versions of the 1994 Ford F450 use electronic fuel injection.

Instructions

1

Drain the fuel tank and disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel pump from the electrical connector, and clean the dirt from the area around the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump.

2

Place a wood dowel against the tabs of the fuel pumps locking ring and hammer the locking ring loose. Turn the locking ring counterclockwise to loosen it. Pull the fuel pump out and remove the gasket from the groove in the fuel tank.

3

Put the new fuel pump gasket into the matching groove of the fuel tank, and place the fuel pump into the fuel tank. Keep the fuel pump and gasket in place as you align the tabs on the locking ring with the matching slots in the fuel tank.

4

Turn the fuel pumps locking ring clockwise until it stops against the tab of the retainer ring. Ensure the gasket for the fuel pump is still in place.

5

Connect the fuel lines and the electrical connector to the fuel pump. Install the fuel tank and connect the cable to the batterys negative terminal. Fill the fuel tank.

Your 1996 Honda Accords tie-rod ends are the steering components that attach the steering linkage and linkage parts to the steering knuckles with a hardened steel ball stud. A tie-rod end can be replaced alone, but many automotive parts manufacturers recommend replacing the entire tie-rod as a whole and often sell these components fully assembled. You may want to purchase just the tie-rod ends, if available, if you are looking to conduct this repair method. This procedure does not require special tools and can be done at home with little automotive experience or knowledge.

Instructions

Removing the Tie-Rod Ends

1

Unscrew the lug nuts on your Accord slightly, then raise your Accord and support it with jack stands.

2

Remove the lug nuts and take the front wheels off.

3

Loosen the jam nut using one open-end box wrench while holding onto the tie-rod end with another. When the thread is exposed, mark it with some correction fluid to erence the new tie-rods position.

4

Take out the cotter pin on the tie-rod end stud and loosen the nut, but dont remove it.

5

Pry the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm using a two-jaw puller. Now remove the nut and separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm.

6

Separate the tie-rod end from the tie-rod by unscrewing it.

Installing the New Tie-Rod End

7

Screw on the tie-rod end up to the marked point on the tie-rod; you may need your open-end wrench. Place the tie-rod stud into the steering knuckle arm.

8

Screw on the nut to the tie-rod end stud and torque it to 32 foot-lbs with your torque wrench. Install the new cotter pin.

9

Repeat all steps in each section for the other side of your Accord.

10

Install the wheels and screw on the lug nuts finger tight. Lower your Accord and torque the lug nuts to 80 foot-lbs.

Ford started production of the Ford Focus in 1999. The models made from 1999 to 2007 were the first generation of this series. The standard engine in the 2003 Focus has four cylinders and a displacement of 2.0 liters. The timing belt on this vehicle synchronizes the movements between the crankshaft and the camshaft. The tension on the timing belt is a critical factor in its installation.

Instructions

1

Open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with socket wrench. Turn the drive belt tensioner clockwise to reduce the tension on the accessory drive belt. Remove the drive belt. Disconnect the tensioner with a socket wrench. Remove the timing belt cover.

2

Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench and disconnect the right splash shield. Remove the pulley for the crankshaft.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Loosen the tensioner bolt on the timing belt with a socket wrench. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise by 1/4 turn with an 8mm Allen wrench. Place a 1/8-inch drill bit into the hole on the timing belt tensioner to hold the belt tensioner in place. Remove the timing belt.

4

Install the new timing belt onto the crankshaft by proceeding in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the drill bit from the hole in the timing belt tensioner. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two turns so that the timing marks align once again. Torque the tensioner bolt for the timing belt to between 15 and 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Install the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench and tighten its mounting bolt to between 81 and 96 foot-pounds. Connect the right splash shield and the right front wheel. Lower the vehicle and replace the timing belt cover. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and mount the drive belt. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The thermostat on the 1988 Buick LeSabre is located partially inside the intake manifold and the thermostat housing. Because the thermostat sits higher than the fluid level in the radiator, replacing the thermostat in the LeSabre is an uncomplicated task. Fortunately, the thermostat housing is not hidden among engine accessories. This makes it easier to reach, remove and replace a broken thermostat.

Instructions

1

Follow the upper radiator hose to the point where the hose connects to the LeSabres engine. The metal connector to which the hose connects is the thermostat housing.

2

Disconnect the radiator hose from the housing by squeezing the pressure tabs on the radiator hose clamp together with a pair of pliers. With the pressure released, pull the hose off the housing. A small amount of fluid may run onto the engine block. To minimize this, hold the hose vertical for a few seconds to drain the fluid back into the radiator.

3

Remove the two bolts that secure the thermostat housing to the Buicks intake manifold with a 7/16-inch socket and ratchet. With the bolts removed, apply pressure on the side of the housing with the ball of your hand to break the seal between the housing and the intake.

4

Pull the old thermostat out of the intake manifold and plug the hole with a shop towel to prevent anything from getting into the coolant system of your Buick.

5

Scrape all the old gasket material off the bottom of the thermostat housing and the mating surface of the intake manifold. Brush off any debris with a shop towel.

6

Remove the shop towel from the intake manifold and place the new thermostat into the hole. The end with the large spring submerges into the intake manifold and the end with the pin sits inside the thermostat housing.

7

Place a thin bead of RTV gasket maker on the bottom edge of the thermostat gasket. Allow the RTV gasket maker to firm up for approximately 20 minutes. This creates a small layer of "skin" on the RTV.

8

Place the thermostat housing onto the intake manifold and bolt it into place. Do not wipe off any excess RTV. It serves as additional sealant.

9

Squeeze the pressure tabs on the radiator hose clamp. With pressure released, slide the hose onto the thermostat housing and then let go of the tabs.

You can clear the Check Engine light on your 95 Ford Escort using a computerized tool called an OBD I scanner. Retrieve the engine trouble codes using the OBD I scanner and make the necessary repairs before clearing the Check Engine light. If you clear the Check Engine light before repairing the Escort, you can damage the engine, the emissions system or the cars on-board diagnostics (OBD) computer.

Instructions

1

Locate the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) port on the drivers side dashboard under the steering column.

2

Plug the OBD I scanner into the DLC port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. This will power on the scanner.

4

Select the "Clear Codes" or similar option. Wait for the scanner to return to the main menu. This will indicate that the task has been completed.

5

Unplug the scanner and start the engine. Verify that the Check Engine light has shut off.

Changing the half shaft on a 2007 Ford F150 pickup is a moderately challenging job for the do-it-yourself mechanic. Steering and suspension parts such as the half shaft, are exposed to the elements, and endure many stresses during use. The accumulated wear can make parts stubborn to remove. Read the following instructions caully before attempting the repair, and make sure you have the necessary parts and equipment on hand.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicle in neutral and raise it with the floor jack. Place jack stands securely under the vehicle frame rails.

2

Remove the wheel whose half shaft is to be replaced.

3

Remove the dust cap in the center of the wheel hub using a screwdriver and rubber mallet. You can also use channel lock pliers large enough to grip it.

4

Remove the wheel end nut and discard it.

5

Remove the two vacuum lines at the integrated wheel end, where the axle bolts to the wheel hub.

6

Remove the three integrated wheel end bolts securing the half shaft to the wheel hub.

7

Remove and discard the tie rod end nut. Separate the tie rod from the knuckle using a ball joint separator.

8

Remove and discard the upper ball joint nut. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle using a ball joint separator.

9

Hold the half shaft in. Allow the wheel hub assembly to swing away caully until there is enough clearance to remove the outboard end of the half shaft from the hub bearing. Take care not to damage the hub seal.

10

Remove the integrated wheel end from the half shaft.

11

Remove the six bolts attaching the half shaft flange to the axle flange. Separate the half shaft from the axle and remove the half shaft from the vehicle.

12

Install the integrated wheel end to the outer CV joint housing on the new half shaft. Take care not to dislodge the seal spring when installing.

13

Installation is the reverse of removal, using the following torque specifications: half shaft flange to axle flange bolts, 60 foot-pounds; upper ball joint and tie rod nuts, 110 foot-pounds; integrated wheel end bolts, 9 foot-pounds; wheel end nut, 18 foot-pounds.

The Volvo V70 wagon is equipped with an advanced traction control system that actively monitors the wheels to ensure proper traction. When the system senses a loss of traction, it retards the engine timing until traction increases. The entire traction system is monitored and controlled by the ABS computer. When the ABS computer detects an issue with the traction control system, it turns on the traction control light. In addition to turning on this light, it records a trouble code that corresponds directly to the problem. Automotive technicians can retrieve this trouble code with an automotive scan tool in order to diagnose and repair the system. In order to reset the traction control light, this code must be erased from the ABS computers memory.

Instructions

1

Stop the engine and turn the ignition forward to the RUN position so that the dashboard lights are illuminated.

2

Find the V70s communications port under the dashboard on the drivers side of the passenger cabin. This port is a 16-pin receptacle that is mounted just out of view, under the leading edge of the dashboard.

3

Plug the scan tools connector into the communications port. Turn on the scan tool and wait while it starts up. Most scan tools run an automatic check of their memory, similar to home computers, before arriving at the menu screen.

4

Look caully at the scan tools screen. Use the menu button on the scan tool to navigate to the ABS menu. Select the option to clear the trouble codes from the ABS computers memory. Watch the screen for a confirmation message that the codes are cleared.

5

Use the menu keys to navigate back to the home screen and power down the scan tool. Disconnect the cable from the communication port and start the engine. Verify that the traction control light is not on or blinking. If the light is off then the traction control system is reset.

Driving a VW Jetta with a manual transmission can be fun, and it gives you more control over the car. You can use the clutch to decelerate, lower the torque to the wheels, accelerate at higher rpm and even kill the engine. The whole system hinges on a clutch, which you use to change gears in the transmission and keep them from grinding each other during the speeding up and slowing down process of driving. If the clutch begins to feel less responsive or has too much slack, you may need to adjust it.

Instructions

1

Locate the clutch adjustment mechanism in the engine bay of the car.

2

Slide the locking strap down to the top of the mechanisms protective covering.

3

Compress the adjustment mechanism and hook the straps over the lugs protruding from the side.

4

Press the clutch pedal while someone else pulls the clutch cable, taking care to keep the adjustment mechanism compressed.

5

Unhook the locking mechanism straps and depress the clutch pedal several times until the tension is good.

Repairing a rusted or cracked truck frame professionally is a desirable skill, both for those who work on big rigs and for do-it-yourselfers restoring older classic trucks or fixing their own trucks to make sure they pass inspection. Whatever the reason, there are a number of steps to performing a professional truck frame repair that you should follow.

Removing Accessory Pieces From the Frame

The first step to professional truck frame repair is to remove any unnecessary pieces of metal, mounting brackets, or other items from the frame. This is important not only so you dont damage these pieces while you are performing the frame repair, but also so that you can check them for damage or other problems while off the vehicle. Make caul notes of what you have removed and where it goes so that youll be able to reassemble everything.

Sandblasting

A key step in successful truck frame repair is to sandblast everything. Sandblasting is an abrasive process that allows for complete removal of rust, old paint and dirt from the metal, so that you can caully inspect the truck frame for hairline cracks or weaknesses. Mark any areas that you may need to repair or replace completely before continuing.

Remove Damaged Areas

Remove any metal areas that are damaged, cracked, or rusted through. By using either a cutting torch, plasma arc cutter, grinder or similar tool, you can get rid of these areas and begin to template and replace them with fresh metal.

A blown head gasket in a Mitsubishi 3000GT can impact the engines performance, as well as the vehicles fuel efficiency. When there is a hole in the gasket or it is overheated, the coolant can mix with the engine oil and damage the block. When a head gasket leak develops, it makes a tapping noise. Replacing the gasket takes between 4 to 6 hours of complete.

Instructions

1

Drain the coolant and oil from the engine. Remove the intake manifold. Unscrew the exhaust manifold.

2

Remove the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft using the MD998754 torque wrench. Remove the timing belt rear cover. Remove the timing belt. Unscrew the power-steering pump-bracket connection and generator-brace connection.

3

Disconnect the vacuum-pipe assembly. Remove the rocker-arm cover. Using the MD998051 torque wrench, unscrew the cylinder-head bolts. Take out the cylinder head. Remove the old cylinder head from the engine block.

4

Lay the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block with the identification mark at the front top. Follow the operations above to reassemble the removed parts.

The heater in the 1992 Mazda B2600 is a radiator that uses hot coolant from the engine to heat the cab of the truck. The procedure for replacing the heater is the same for all Mazda trucks made from 1987 to 1993.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure the engine doesnt start while replacing the heater. Put a drain pan under the radiator, and open the drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain from the radiator, and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the shield for the water valve on the heaters left side with a socket wrench. Detach the coolant hoses from the heater, and remove the housing for the control cable from its mounting clip on the heater. Disconnect the cable wires from the heaters crank arms. Detach the electrical connector from the fan motor.

3

Remove the glove compartment with a socket wrench to provide clearance for the heater. Disconnect the retaining nuts for the heater that are inside the glove compartment. Detach the defroster ducts from the heater, and pull the heater from the dashboard.

4

Mount the new heater to the dashboard, and align the mounting studs on the heater with the corresponding holes in the dashboard. Fasten the mounting nuts for the heater, and attach the defroster ducts to the heater. Attach the control cable for the defrost door for the heater to the crank arm.

5

Turn the upper control lever to the heat position, and push the crank arm for the heater towards its mounting clip as far as possible. Attach the cable housing to the clip, and fasten the clip to the heater with a socket wrench.

6

Attach the control cable for the water valve to the lever for the water valve. Set the heaters control lever to the hot setting, and push the crank arm for the lever as far towards the mounting clip for the control cable as possible. Fasten the screw for the clip with a socket wrench.

7

Insert the control cable for the recirculation door into the doors crank arm. Bend the cable, and fasten it into place with the retaining screw. Move the center control lever to the REC setting, and push the crank arm for the recirculation door toward the mounting clip as far as possible.

8

Attach the housing for the recirculation door cable to its clip, and fasten the retaining screw for the clip with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fan motor. Attach the coolant hoses to the tubes on the left side of the heater, and fasten the hose clamps. Connect the shield for the heaters water valve with the retaining screws, and install the glove compartment.

9

Replace the coolant in the radiator, and reconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Check for coolant leaks, and ensure the heater is functioning properly.

The On-Board Diagnostics computer, or OBD, on your BMW 528i stores trouble codes that come from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. These sensors keep track of the mechanical functions of your vehicle. When you see the ABS or Antilock Brake light flash on your instrument panel, you know there is a malfunction with your braking system. This needs to be looked at and repaired as soon as possible by a qualified mechanic. Once the repairs have been made, you need to reset the brake light to ensure the vehicles computer will continue to properly monitor the braking system.

Instructions

1

Locate the fuse panel cover on the drivers side dashboard, near the foot well. Use your fingers to pull down on it from the top.

2

Find a large port on the fuse panel. Plug the connective end of the OBD reset tool into this port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. Dont turn on the engine, though. This will power on the OBD reset tool automatically.

4

Wait for the codes to flash on the OBD reset tool screen. Use the arrow keys on the reset tool to find and select "Delete" on the menu screen. Some OBD reset tools have a "Delete" button on the face of the tool. Either way, select "Delete" and wait for the ABS light to blink and then turn off on the instrument panel.

5

Unplug the tool from the port and replace the fuse panel cover. Turn off the vehicle and wait 60 seconds. Turn the engine on and verify the ABS light is off.

The catalytic converter on your Saturn SL2 bolts to a flange on the rear of the head pipe coming off the engine. A clogged converter can cause the engine to run very rough and will build up excessive amounts of heat under your car, which can radiate into the passenger compartment through the floorboards. While many people shy away from exhaust work, you can change the converter at home in the driveway and save yourself a potentially large repair bill.

Instructions

1

Position a jack under the front of your SL2 and raise the front end off the ground so you can work underneath it. Place a set of jack stands under the front suspension then lower the jack, allowing the car to settle onto the jack stands.

2

Slide under the car near the back of the front wheels. The catalytic converter attaches to the head pipe near the rear of the engine with four bolts and a mounting flange. Loosen the nuts on the four bolts with a socket and ratchet, but do not remove them yet.

3

Locate the exhaust clamp on the pipe at the rear of the catalytic converter where it joins the rear exhaust pipe. Remove the two nuts from the clamp, then remove the clamp from the pipe. Move to the front of the converter and remove the four mounting bolts that you loosened earlier, then lower the front of the converter away from the head pipe.

4

Pull the converter forward, sliding it out of the rear pipe. Lower it to the ground and remove it from under the car.

5

Position a new converter under the car and raise it until you can slide the rear fitting on the converter into the rear pipe. Slide it in far enough to allow you to raise the front flange to the flange on the head pipe.

6

Install a new brass gasket between the front flanges, then install the four mounting bolts and nuts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other. Install a new exhaust clamp on the rear pipe and tighten the nuts to secure it. Do not over-tighten it, or you will crush the exhaust pipe.

7

Move out from under the car and raise it off the jack stands with a jack. Remove the jack stands then set the car on its wheels. Remove the jack from under the car.

Mercedes-Benz vehicles are well known for their prestige and luxury, but despite their high reputation, they still encounter problems from time-to-time. One of the more common problems that can occur with a 2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK 320 is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. The most noticeable symptom of a faulty crankshaft position sensor on a 2001 SLK 320 is an engine that cranks but wont start. This is because the powertrain control module, or PCM, cannot determine when to fire the spark plugs inside the engine cylinders. Because the crankshaft position sensor is a non-serviceable part, it must be replaced when faulty.

Instructions

Removal

1

Engage the parking brake and open the hood. Remove the plastic engine paneling by lifting up on it until it pops loose.

2

Pull the intake tube out of the air cleaner box, and then remove the intake tube from the throttle body outlet by gently pulling on it. Pull the air cleaner housing off of the cylinder head cover and then remove the entire air cleaner assembly from the engine bay.

3

Locate the crankshaft position sensor on the back side of the engine block, next to the transmission bell housing, between the firewall and the left cylinder head. The sensor is black and has a single black wire connector attached to it.

4

Disconnect the sensors electrical connector and remove the bolt holding the sensor to the engine block. Pull the sensor out of the engine block. If it stubborn, caully remove it using a slip-joint pliers, moving slowly to ensure that the sensor doesnt break off inside the block.

Installation

5

Grease the sensor with a small amount of clean engine oil and insert it into the block until its fully-seated. Reinstall the sensors retaining bolt and tighten it to 71-inch pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Reconnect the crank sensors electrical connector.

7

Set the air cleaner assembly into position and press it down on top of the cylinder head cover until it snaps into place. Reconnect the air cleaner tube to the air box and the throttle body air housing.

8

Place the plastic engine paneling in position on top of the engine and press down on it until it locks in place. Plug the Mercedes-Benz Star Diagnosis scan tool into the vehicles communication port and run the CKP re-sync procedure.

The NP205 was a heavy-duty, gear-driven, extremely durable cast-iron transfer case used in Chevy, Ford, International and Dodge full-size trucks. The Chevy versions were erred to as NP205C. They were installed in Blazers, K10s, K20s and K30s from 1966 through 1984.

Bolt Pattern

The Chevy versions of the NP205 transfer case used eight bolts for added strength. The bolts form a racetrack pattern.

Input Specifications

The NP205 was manufactured with four different input splines. From 1966 to 1984, a 10-spline model was available and was most commonly used with the SM465 transmission. From 1971 to 1979, a 27-spline model was available and used with the T350 transmission. The NP205 also came in both a short and long 32-spline format, which was usually attached to a T400 transmission.

Output Specifications

The NP205C was configured with two front output splines. A 10-spline model was manufactured from 1971 until around 1977. A 30-spline model was produced from 1977 until 1984 (in Chevrolets). The 10-spline model came with a 1310-series yoke and the 30-spline model used a flat flange. The transfer case featured a 32-spline, rear output shaft and came equipped with a fixed yoke.

The Hyundai Elantra is a series of compact cars that Hyundai has manufactured since 1990. The 2000 model represents the last year of the second generation Hyundai, which had a 4-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine as its standard engine. This engine uses a timing belt to synchronize the movement of the camshaft and crankshaft as opposed to a timing chain. The timing belt in a 2000 Hyundai requires replacement approximately every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect any components necessary to access the cover of the timing belt. Remove the timing belt cover with a socket wrench.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the No. 1 piston at the top dead center position as indicated by the timing marks on the crankshaft. Disconnect the tensioner for the timing belt and the idler pulley with a socket wrench. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket.

3

Turn the camshaft sprocket clockwise to align its timing marks and ensure the timing marks for the crankshaft timing are still aligned. Connect the tensioner for the timing belt with a socket wrench, but do not tighten the pulley bolt for the tensioner. Install the idler pulley and tighten its mounting bolt to between 32 and 41 foot-pounds.

4

Place the timing belt over the sprocket of the camshaft, then over the sprocket of the crankshaft. Turn the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise to place tension on the timing belt. Apply 5 pounds of force to the middle of the longest span of the timing belt. The deflection of the timing belt will be between 0.16 inches and 0.24 inches when the timing belt is at the correct tension.

5

Tighten the pulley bolt for the timing belt tensioner to between 32 and 41 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise by one turn to align the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket. Adjust the timing belt tension as required.

6

Replace the cover for the timing belt. Install any additional components that you removed in step one to access the timing belt.