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Occasionally, even after changing the engine oil on your 2005 Monte Carlo, the "Change Oil" light will still stay on. If this occurs, you must reset the light manually through one of two methods. The first method involves the accelerator pedal, and the second involves the radio. If you have an aftermarket radio, you will not be able to perform the second method.

Instructions

Accelerator Method

1

Turn the Monte Carlos engine off. Leave the keys in the ignition in the "Run" position.

2

Press and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds. The "Change Oil" light will flash twice and then turn off.

3

Repeat this procedure if it did not work the first time. The accelerator pedal must be fully pressed and released each time, and it must be completed three times within five seconds.

Radio Method

4

Turn the Monte Carlos engine off. Leave the keys in the ignition in the "Run" position.

5

Press and hold the "TUNE" button for five seconds. "SETTINGS" will now appear on the radio display.

6

Press the "SEEK P-TYPE" button to scroll through the options on the display. Stop when "OIL LIFE" is displayed.

7

Press the "1 PREV" button to scroll through the sub-menu. When "RESET" is displayed, press the "TUNE" button to confirm. A beep will emit from the speakers, confirming the reset procedure. "DONE" will appear on the display.

8

Press the "TUNE" button to exit the program. One more beep will be heard to confirm the exit.

The Ford F series is a line of full-size pickup trucks in continuous production since 1948, with the F-150 models being the most popular. The 1988 Ford F-150 has an early form of fuel injection that uses a low-pressure electric fuel pump. The replacement of the fuel pump itself is a relatively simple task, but accessing the fuel pump requires you to remove the fuel tank. The great majority of the work in replacing the fuel pump on a 1988 Ford F-150 is the removal and installation of the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle and turn off the ignition. Open and secure the hood. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and remove the fuel tank filler cap.

2

Remove the valve cap to the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line and connect the T80L-9974-A pressure gauge to the relief valve. Place the end of the hose for the pressure gauge into a gasoline-approved container. Open the pressure gauge valve. Drain the fuel from the fuel system into the container. Remove the pressure gauge and replace the valve cap on the relief valve.

3

Drain the fuel from the tank. Disconnect the wiring from the fuel-sending unit and the fuel line from the fuel tank. Remove the air relief tube from the fuel tank. Loosen the clamp on the filler neck hose and detach the filler neck from the fuel tank. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel tanks retaining strap. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

4

Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel-sending unit. Clean the fuel tank around the fuel sending unit and disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel sending unit. Turn the locking ring of the fuel sending unit counterclockwise with a hammer and wood dowel. Remove the locking ring and disconnect the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket on the fuel tank.

5

Put the new gasket into the groove on the tank. Install the new fuel-sending unit to the fuel tank while keeping the gasket in place. Align the tabs on the locking ring with the slots on the fuel tank and turn the locking ring clockwise until it is against the retainer ring tab.

6

Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring to the fuel sending unit. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the fuel tanks restraining strap to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

The Ford E-Series is a line of full-size vans that has been in continuous production since 1961. The number in the series indicates the carrying capacity of the van, such that 350 indicates a carrying capacity of one ton. All versions of the E350 use electronic fuel injection, which requires the fuel pump to maintain the fuel system under high pressure. You must remove the fuel tank on the 1996 Ford E350 to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment and engage the starter for 10 seconds to empty the fuel system. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel pump relay. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure you dont start the engine inadvertently while replacing the fuel pump. Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank with a hose and drain the fuel into a gasoline container.

2

Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly and detach the fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and disconnect the filler tube retainers with a socket wrench. Remove the straps for the fuel tank and lower the fuel tank with the floor jack. Move the fuel tank to your work area.

3

Clean the fuel tank around the fuel pump assembly with a shop towel to keep dirt out of the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump assembly counterclockwise with a locking ring adapter for a 1996 Ford E350. Remove the locking ring from the fuel pump assembly and pull the fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank. Discard the old gasket on the fuel tank.

4

Clean the mounting flange for the fuel pump assembly with a shop towel and coat the mounting flange with a thin layer of lubricant meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. Install the new gasket and fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank. Place the locking ring onto the fuel pump assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.

5

Install the fuel tank by performing Step 2 in reverse and fill the fuel tank with fuel. Connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on to pressurize the fuel system.

A blown head gasket in a Mitsubishi 3000GT can impact the engines performance, as well as the vehicles fuel efficiency. When there is a hole in the gasket or it is overheated, the coolant can mix with the engine oil and damage the block. When a head gasket leak develops, it makes a tapping noise. Replacing the gasket takes between 4 to 6 hours of complete.

Instructions

1

Drain the coolant and oil from the engine. Remove the intake manifold. Unscrew the exhaust manifold.

2

Remove the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft using the MD998754 torque wrench. Remove the timing belt rear cover. Remove the timing belt. Unscrew the power-steering pump-bracket connection and generator-brace connection.

3

Disconnect the vacuum-pipe assembly. Remove the rocker-arm cover. Using the MD998051 torque wrench, unscrew the cylinder-head bolts. Take out the cylinder head. Remove the old cylinder head from the engine block.

4

Lay the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block with the identification mark at the front top. Follow the operations above to reassemble the removed parts.

The front wheel hub assembly on a 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue contains both the bearing, hub, and wheel studs. This wheel hub assembly is non-repairable and must be replaced as an entire unit. Symptoms of a faulty hub assembly include a noticeable vibration that increases with vehicle speed, grinding or buzzing when turning, and howling or whining at speeds above 45 miles per hour. The hub assembly is secured to the steering knuckle with three steel bolts. These bolts must be replaced when installing the new hub assembly.

Instructions

Removal

1

Apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Remove the hub cap on the affected side by loosening the hub cap locking caps with a 19 mm socket and a ratchet. Break the lug nuts loose with a 19 mm lug nut wrench.

2

Raise the vehicle with an automotive jack and support it with two jack stands, one on each side. Check to make sure the vehicle is securely supported before proceeding.

3

Remove the lug nuts with a 19 mm lug nut wrench and remove the tire. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal and loosen the axle shaft nut one revolution with a deep-well axle nut socket and a ratchet.

4

Place a C-clamp over the brake caliper so one end of the clamps is over the rear side of the caliper and the other end of the clamp is over the outer brake pad. Loosen the caliper bleeder screw with a flare nut wrench, then tighten the C-clamp to compress the caliper piston. Tighten the bleeder screw immediately after compressing the piston.

5

Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the knuckle and pry the caliper and bracket off of the rotor together. Tie the caliper and bracket assembly to the strut spring with a piece or wire.

6

Remove the brake rotor. Place a pry bar in between the wheel studs to hold the hub still, then remove the axle shaft nut. Loosen the three bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle that hold the hub assembly in place with a ratchet and metric socket. Install a two-jaw puller onto the hub flange. Center the puller screw on the end of the axle shaft. Tighten the puller screw to force the splined portion of the axle shaft out of the hub assembly.

7

Remove the puller from the hub assembly. Remove the bolts that hold the hub assembly to the steering knuckle and remove the hub assembly from the vehicle.

Installation

8

Clean the circular hub assembly mating surface on the steering with a wire brush to remove any excess corrosion. Apply a light coating of grease to the axle splines. Slide the axle into the new hub assembly and rotate it until the three mounting holes align with the holes in the steering knuckle.

9

Reinstall three new hub assembly mounting bolts with a ratchet and metric socket. Torque the bolts to 96 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Set the brake rotor into position on the new hub and install two lug nuts to hold it in place. Slide the brake caliper and bracket into position over the rotor and reinstall the brake caliper bracket bolts. Tighten the bracket bolts to 137 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Have an assistant hold a pry bar in between the axle nut studs to immobilize the hub, and then install a new axle nut on the axle spindle and torque it to 118 foot-pounds. Double-check to make sure that the brake caliper, bracket, hub assembly, and rotor are properly installed before proceeding.

11

Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts using a lug nut wrench. Lift the vehicle off of the jack stands with an automotive jack and set it on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and reinstall the hub cap.

12

Pump the brakes until the pedal firms up; because the piston was driven back into the caliper bore, you must pump the brakes to move the piston forward into contact with the brake pads before operating the vehicle. Road test the vehicle to ensure that hub assembly and brakes operate properly.

The Dodge Shadow was a compact car that Chrysler produced from 1987 to 1994. It had a variety of engine options, including a four-cylinder 2.5-liter Premier engine. This engine uses a single cylinder head, and you must replace the gasket each time you remove the cylinder head. The procedure for changing the cylinder head gasket is generally the same for all versions of the Dodge Shadow with a 2.5-liter Premier engine.

Instructions

1

Open the fuel filler cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Disconnect the wiring harness for the fuel injectors from the throttle body. Attach a jumper wire from the first terminal of the harness to a ground point on the engine.

2

Attach one end of another jumper wire to the second terminal of the harness. Touch the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery positive post for five seconds to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the jumper wires, and disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

3

Remove the radiator cap, and start the engine. Turn the heater on, and allow the engine to idle until the upper radiator hose gets hot. Stop the engine, and place a container under the radiator drain cock on the bottom of the radiator. Open the drain cock with a socket wrench, and drain the coolant into the container. Fasten the drain cock.

4

Detach the accessory drive belt from its pulleys. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the air compressor with a socket wrench, and push the compressor aside to obtain access to the cylinder heads. Secure the compressor in place with cord.

5

Disconnect the upper radiator hose and heater hoses from the engine. Remove the cover for the rocker arms, and disconnect the mounting bolts for the rocker arm with a socket wrench. Pull the rocker arms and push rods from the engine block. Disconnect the intake manifold and exhaust manifold from the engine block.

6

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Lift the cylinder head from the engine block, and remove the cylinder head gasket. Remove any traces of the old gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

7

Cut the heads off two of the cylinder head mounting bolts, and cut slots in one end of each bolt to serve as alignment dowels. Install the alignment dowels into the number 8 and number 10 mounting bolt holes. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head onto the alignment dowels with the numbers on the gasket facing up.

8

Place the cylinder head on the engine block and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the head bolts to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass, then tighten them to 45 foot-pounds on the second pass. Tighten bolts 1 through 6 to 110 foot-pounds, tighten bolt 7 to 100 foot-pounds and tighten bolts 8 through 10 to 110 foot-pounds.

9

Install the rocker arms and push rods to their original position on the engine block. Install a new gasket for the rocker arm cover, and replace the cover. Attach the hoses to the engine, and fasten the mounting bolts for the air compressor. Tighten the mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Mount the accessory drive belt to its pulleys, and adjust the tension on the belt. Attach the cable for the negative terminal with a socket wrench, and fill the radiator with coolant. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

The tensioner pulley on a 1994 Dodge Caravan serpentine belt tensioner assembly allows the transference of tension from the tensioner to the belt. The pulley itself has an internal bearing ring so it can rotate freely at the end of the serpentine belt tensioner arm. If the bearing ring gives out, the pulley will either wobble or seize, neither of which is conducive to continued serpentine drive system operation. Unfortunately, the pulley itself is not serviceable. However, Dodge does offer the entire tensioner assembly. Anyone with good mechanical aptitude can change a Caravan tensioner in about an hour.

Instructions

1

Lift the Caravans hood and support it with the prop rod. Examine the belt routing diagram sticker, placed on the fan shroud or underside of the hood, to verify the location of the belt tensioner on your specific Caravan.

2

Rotate the Caravans serpentine belt tensioner assembly clockwise to relieve the tension on the belt. Slip the belt off the tensioner with your free hand before rotating the tensioner back to its home position. Remove the tool.

3

Extract the two mounting bolts that hold the serpentine belt tensioner assembly to the Caravans front engine cover using your socket set. Depending on your physical size and dexterity, you may find this easier to accomplish through the top of the engine well or through the passenger-side wheel well.

4

Pull the old serpentine belt tensioner assembly out of the Caravans engine bay by hand. Place the new serpentine belt tensioner assembly on the Caravans front engine cover and bolt it in using your socket set.

5

Rotate the new serpentine belt tensioner assembly clockwise with the serpentine belt tool and then place the belt on the pulley by hand. Rotate the new serpentine belt tensioner assembly back into place. Remove the tool and close the hood.

An automobile is a combination of various parts working in perfect harmony, with the goal of delivering comfort and utility to its owner. Your vehicle requires proper maintenance to operate efficiently. The ignition lock is one of many heavily used components on an auto; eventually, wear and tear takes a toll and the lock will need to be replaced. The procedure is simple and once it is replaced, your new ignition lock will provide reliable service for years to come.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle in "Neutral" and set the parking brake. Open the hood and disconnect the negative cable from the battery using a wrench.

2

Locate the screws holding the steering cover in place. The steering cover consists of two halves fastened together with a pair of Phillips screws; the screws are located on the underside of the steering column. Use a flashlight if you need more light to see the screws. Remove the screws with the Phillips screwdriver. Remove both sections of the steering cover to expose the cylindrical ignition lock.

3

Remove the screws holding the ignition lock in place using a flat-head screwdriver. Be caul not to damage the wiring connected to the lock through the wire grip. On some vehicles, a bolt secures the ignition lock and youll use a socket wrench to remove this bolt.

4

Remove the ignition lock caully. Once unscrewed, it will slide out easily. Detach the wire grip connecting the lock to the vehicles electrical system. Discard the old ignition lock.

5

Connect the wire grip to the new ignition lock. The wire grip is fragile so handle it caully.

6

Reconnect the negative battery cable and test the new ignition lock. Turn the key from "Off" to "On" several times. If the ignition lock turns smoothly and performs as expected, start the car several times.

7

Disconnect the negative battery cable again with a wrench before proceeding.

8

Secure the new ignition lock in place. The wires leading to the wire grip may be different lengths so you may need to maneuver the lock to avoid crimping the wires.

9

Fasten the ignition lock in place using the Phillips screwdriver to tighten the screws you removed earlier. Reattach the steering cover, starting with the lower half and then the top. Tighten the Phillips screws to secure the steering cover in place.

Cars with a serpentine belt are equipped with a tensioner pulley, which puts pressure on the serpentine belt to hold it in place. If the serpentine belt comes loose due to a malfunctioning tensioner pulley, the belt will slip out of place and you could lose power to several systems, including the alternator, air conditioning, and power steering.

Instructions

1

Pull the emergency brake and chock the wheels of the car. This is an important safety step, as it prevents the car from rolling or moving while you are working on it.

2

Open the hood and determine the location of your serpentine belt and tensioner. This will be on the front of your engine block. If your car does not have a routing diagram for the serpentine belt on the underside of the hood, draw a diagram on a spare sheet of paper.

3

Place the head of the 3/8-inch drive ratchet in the hole of the tensioner pulley, and apply pressure counterclockwise to remove pressure from the serpentine belt, then remove the belt from around the tensioner pulley. There is no need to remove the belt from all of the pulleys that it services. Move the belt far enough from the tensioner so that you have ample room to work.

4

Determine what socket size you need to remove the tensioner and tensioner pulley. The bolt head that you need to loosen is the one located on the front of the tensioner, as opposed to the one on the tensioner pulley. Using the socket and ratchet, loosen and remove the bolt.

5

Remove the tensioner assembly from the engine and place it to the side.

6

Install the new assembly and replace and tighten the bolt until it is secure. Make sure that the bolt is tightened well, as engine vibration can cause a loose bolt to work itself loose.

7

Replace the serpentine belt around the tensioner pulley and er to the routing diagram to ensure that it remains in its proper position around the other pulleys. Insert the ratchet head into the hole on the front of the pulley and apply pressure in a counterclockwise direction to reapply pressure to the serpentine belt.

The Honda Accord is a mid-size car that has been in production since 1976. The 2001 model belongs to the sixth generation of this series, which includes Accords made from 1998 to 2002. The 2001 Honda Accord typically has a four-cylinder 2.3-liter engine with multi-point fuel injection. This engine uses a timing belt to keep the camshaft synchronized with the crankshaft. The procedure for replacing the timing belt requires you to set the crankshaft to the top dead center (TDC) position several times.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the valve cover and upper covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Remove any additional components needed to access the crankshaft. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the white mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the lower cover of for the timing belt. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

2

Remove the lower timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Fasten one of the mounting bolts for the lower timing cover to the adjuster arm of the timing belt tensioner. This will hold the timing belt adjuster in position.

3

Loosen the lock bolt and adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench, and push the tensioner away from the timing belt to relieve the tension on the timing belt. Tighten the adjuster nut on the timing belt, and pull the timing belt off its sprockets.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the pointer on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the oil pump. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

5

Mount the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner sprocket, water pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order. Loosen the adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench, then tighten it again to apply tension to the timing belt.

6

Install the lower timing belt cover with a socket wrench, and rotate the crankshaft sprocket five to six complete turns clockwise to seat the timing belt on the sprockets. Make sure the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket aligns with the timing mark on the lower timing cover. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

7

Turn the adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise by one turn. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to move the camshaft sprocket back by three teeth, and tighten the adjusting nut on the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks once again.

8

Install the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Connect all additional components you removed to access the crankshaft. Replace the valve cover.

A Duramax engine is an eight-cylinder diesel engine that General Motors has manufactured since 2001. It appears in heavy Chevrolet trucks, such as the Silverado 2500HD. The most common 2003 Duramax engine has a displacement of 6.6 liters with electronic fuel injection. The fuel injectors are on top of the engine and deliver fuel to the engine in the correct quantity and sequence. Each cylinder of the engine has its own fuel injector.

Instructions

1

Remove the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. This ensures that you dont inadvertently start the engine. Disconnect the lower valve cover. Detach the fuel line from the fuel injectors and remove the bracket from the fuel injector.

2

Connect Special Tool J-29873 to the retainer bracket of the fuel injector. Attach a socket wrench to the special tool and pry the retainer bracket away from the fuel injector.

3

Detach the fuel injector from the injection socket. Remove the copper washer from the injection socket if it is not attached to the injector. Apply assembly grease to the copper washer and place it back into the injection socket.

4

Install the new fuel injector into the injection socket. Install the injector bracket and tighten its retainer bolt to 36 ft. pounds. with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the fuel line to the fuel injector and tighten its retaining bolts to 108 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the lower valve cover with a socket wrench. Connect the cables to the negative terminals of the batteries.

The Chevrolet Camaro is a muscle car that has been in continuous production since 1967. The 1991 Z28 Camaro is a third-generation Camaro, which Chevrolet made from 1982 to 1992. This was the first generation of Camaros to come equipped with fuel injection. The 1991 Z28 Camaro used multi-port fuel injection, which requires a high-pressure fuel pump. The replacement fuel pump for this car must match the engine, which may be an eight-cylinder 5.0-liter engine or an eight-cylinder 5.7-liter engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative terminal on the battery, using a socket wrench. Loosen the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Place a siphon hose into the filler neck of the fuel tank. Siphon as much fuel as possible into a container approved for gasoline. Raise the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the neck shield for the fuel filler, and remove the rear axle. Disconnect the bolts for the exhaust pipes with a socket wrench, and remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifold. Disconnect the heat shield for the exhaust system with a socket wrench. Clean the pipes and hoses for the fuel system around the fuel tank with a shop rag. Locate the fuel sender assembly on the fuel tank. The main body of this unit is inside the fuel tank, while its hose and electrical connectors are accessible from the top of the fuel tank. Disconnect the hoses to the fuel sender assembly, and detach the electrical connection for the fuel sender. Support the fuel tank, and remove the bolts for the fuel tank straps. Remove the fuel tank straps and fuel tank from the vehicle.

3

Clean the area around the fuel sender assembly with a shop rag. Turn the retaining cam on the fuel sending unit counter-clockwise with tool J-24187, and remove the retaining cam. Remove the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank, and discard the O-rings. Detach the fuel pump from the fuel sending unit.

4

Attach the new fuel pump to the fuel sending unit. Place a new O-ring in the groove on the fuel tank, and place another new O-ring on the feed tube of the fuel sender unit. Ensure that the strainer on the fuel pump is horizontal and does not impede the movement of the float arm on the fuel sender unit. Fold the strainer caully to avoid damage as you place the fuel sending unit into position on the fuel tank.

5

Fasten the retaining cam onto the fuel sender unit by turning it clockwise with tool J-24187. Connect the heat shield and exhaust pipes for the exhaust system. Connect the fuel tank and lower the vehicle. Fill the fuel tank and fasten the filler cap on the fuel tank. Connect the cable for the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench.

The serpentine belt in the Chevy Silverado works hard. The serpentine belt that controls the air conditioner also controls the other accessories in your vehicle. It is called a serpentine belt because of the way it snakes around inside the engine. It should be inspected each time you change the oil. Look for cuts, cracks or glazing. If it makes noise, it should be replaced. (Reference 1)

Instructions

1

Study the belts routing. If there is no diagram under the hood that shows the routing, draw one yourself. If the new belt is placed on the wrong way it will cause problems. (Reference 2)

2

Unload the tensioner pulley using a 3/8 inch extension and ratchet. Attach the ratchet to the tensioner bolt and turn it counterclockwise.

3

Caully remove the belt by first releasing it from the tensioner, then side the tensioner back into place, and remove the belt from the other pulleys.

4

Check and clean the tensioner pulley and all the other pulleys for possible wear, dirt, old rubber or oil. Clean the grooves in the pulleys with a wire brush or brake cleaner.

5

Install the replacement belt around all the pulleys, except the tensioner pulley, erring to your notes to be certain you are installing it in the correct direction.

6

Turn the tensioner pulley to the left with the 3/8 inch ratchet, and slip the belt over it. Restore the tensioner to its original position.

7

Start the engine and run it for about two minutes to allow the belt to become completely seated.

The Ford F150s history spans back to the 1948 Ford F-1 half-ton pickup. In 1975, the F-150 was released as a bridge between the F-100 and F-250. The F-150 replaced the F-100 as the smallest of the F-series pickups in 1984. In 1997, Ford dropped the 5.0-liter engine and replaced it with the 4.6-liter V-8, which remained until the 2010 model year. The exhaust manifold gasket is the gasket that seals the connection between the exhaust manifold and the engine. When this gasket fails, it not only creates an exhaust leak, but it can also create a poor running condition.

Instructions

1

Loosen and remove the the EGR valve tube, only on the left exhaust manifold, with a combination wrench. Trace the oil dipstick tube downward and locate the point where its bracket bolts to the engine block. Loosen the bolt securing the bracket to the block, with a ratchet and socket, and pull the tube and dipstick from the engine.

2

Remove the nuts securing the exhaust manifold to the engine, using a ratchet and socket. If the nuts are frozen, apply a coat of rust penetrating spray to free them. Pry the manifold from the engine, using a 12-inch pry bar. Secure the manifold away from the engine using a bungee strap.

3

Pull the old manifold gaskets from the 4.6-liter. Use a wire brush to clean the gasket mating surface on both the exhaust manifold and the engine.

4

Place the new gaskets on the manifold studs protruding from the engine block. Each side of the 4.6-liter has two gaskets, one front and one rear.

5

Release the exhaust manifold from the bungee strap and place it on the studs protruding from the engine block. Hand-tighten all of the nuts to secure the manifold in place.

6

Tighten the nuts, in a crossing pattern starting from the upper rear bolt, to 13 to 16 foot-pounds of torque, using a torque wrench and a socket.

7

Place the dipstick tube back into the engine and tighten the bracket bolt with a ratchet and socket.

8

Reconnect the EGR valve tube to the exhaust manifold, if applicable, and tighten it to 26 to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and combination wrench.

Historically, the Jeep is known to have been one of the first off-road vehicles on the front lines of many wars. The technology that made this vehicle a star player on the battlefield makes it desirable for adventurous drivers today. The Jeep 4.0-liter engine and exhaust package can deliver speeds fit for modern highways, but it can also deliver the torque to drive through rough terrain. If this legendary drive train has a weakness in design and material it would have to be the 4.0-liter factory header and exhaust package. Numerous owner complaints of leaky headers and manifolds should alert you that when purchasing a used Jeep you should consider these tips on how to change the exhaust on a Jeep.

Instructions

1

Drive the vehicle onto two automotive ramps and park it so that both front tires are sitting in the middle of the top of each vehicle ramp. Engage the parking brake and place blocks behind the rear wheels before beginning to work. Raise the hood and disconnect the positive cable from the battery and secure it away from its positive post.

2

Use a screwdriver to loosen the air tube from the throttle body. Pull the tube free and move it away from the work area. Disconnect the two vacuum tubes that exit the valve cover and keep them with the air tube assembly. Pliers and/or a screwdriver work well together to pull these hoses free.

3

Loosen and remove the bolts securing the fuel rail and fuel line. Many bolts in the Jeep are metric, as are these fuel rail bolts. Once the bolts are removed you can adjust the position of the fuel line and rail to a place that is out of the way of the exhaust manifold.

4

Disconnect the cables that enter and exit the intake manifold near the throttle body. These cables include the throttle cable and tans pressure cable. Models with cruise control include a cable for that too. Move all the disconnected equipment to the far side of the engine bay. Tie back with plastic tie straps to keep from falling into your work space.

5

Remove the protective cover inside the front wheel well that is nearest the exhaust manifold. Without this protector, the wheel well allows access to the header pipe and fasteners. From here you will remove the oxygen sensors that are inserted into the manifold and header pipe. Move the sensors to the far side of the engine bay and continue.

6

Disconnect the header pipe from the manifold. Move to the back of the catalytic converter and separate the catalytic converter and header pipe from the rest of the exhaust at the back of the Jeep. Pull the rest of the exhaust out of place by pulling the exhaust hangers free from the old exhaust, then use your reciprocating saw to cut portions of the exhaust apart for easier removal. Never cut or damage the old exhaust hangers as they will be used to hang the new cat-back exhaust.

7

Soak the exhaust manifold bolts for at least 20 minutes with penetrating oil. Begin to work the exhaust manifold bolts loose. Loosen the ones that come free easily and then continue to work the hard-to-remove ones with extra oil until they are all free. With all the bolts removed, begin tapping the manifold with a hammer until it breaks free from the engine. Pull the manifold out of the engine bay and clean the surface of the engine where the new manifold will go.

8

Install the new exhaust manifold with the gasket sitting between the engine and the manifold. Tighten all the bolts securely using a torque wrench set to 35 foot-pounds of pressure. Apply anti-seize compound on the manifold studs to allow for easy removal in the future. Once the new manifold is installed you can begin to reconnect the header pipe, oxygen sensors, throttle cable, transmission pressure cable, and air tube to their original locations using care to tighten each fitting correctly.

9

Hang and connect a new cat-back exhaust system using the original exhaust hangers and the flange that lets it connect to the existing catalytic converter. Run the new tail pipe and position the new muffler in place. Hang the parts using the factory exhaust hangers and tighten together with provided exhaust straps, then secure the exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter flange. With all the pieces together you have changed the exhaust on a Jeep and can expect improved performance and sound from a high-quality exhaust manifold and cat-back exhaust upgrade.

10

Connect the positive cable to the battery and close the hood. Drive the vehicle off the automotive ramps and test drive the new exhaust system you have installed. Expect to tighten fittings and fasteners again after the test drive to seat all these nuts and bolts securely.

The modern car or truck has lots of sensors to tell the vehicles computer how the engine is running, and tune accordingly. One of these is the oxygen or O2 sensor, which detects the amount of oxygen in the vehicles exhaust system and adjusts the fuel/air ration at the heads accordingly. If these sensors go out, youll see a "check engine" light on your dash until theyre replaced, and your Jeep Liberty will run sluggishly. This isnt a fun job, but it can be done in about an hour with the right tools.

Instructions

1

Lift up the vehicle using the jack and place it on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it.

2

Locate the O2 sensors on the exhaust. Theyre about 2 inches long, and have a wire pigtail sticking out of the end. These are also the only sensors on the exhaust, and the only wiring thats near the exhaust at all.

3

Unplug the O2 sensor from the vehicle wiring harness using your hands.

4

Remove the O2 sensor using the 3/8-inch ratchet and the oxygen sensor socket. Then thread the replacement O2 sensor in place and tighten it down using the 3/8-inch ratchet and the oxygen sensor socket.

5

Plug the O2 sensor back into the stock harness using your hands. Repeat the process for the other O2 sensors in the exhaust, then lift the vehicle back up and remove the jack stands using the jack.

The Caravan is a minivan that Chrysler Group sells under its Dodge brand. Chrysler introduced the Caravan in 1984, and the the 2001 model belongs to the fourth generation of this series. The 2001 Dodge Caravan is available with six-cylinder engines that require timing chains. These engines have a single overhead camshaft, and a displacement of 3.3 or 3.8 liters. The timing chain does not wear out and should only require replacement if it breaks.

Instructions

1

Drain the coolant from the radiator into a drain pan. Drain the oil from the crankcase into a separate drain pan. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the right wheel and splash shield under the engine with a socket wrench.

2

Detach the oil pick up tube from the oil pan and disconnect the oil pan. Remove the drive belt from the air compressor and disconnect the damper from the crankshaft. Detach the lower hose from the radiator and remove the heater hose from the cover of the timing chain.

3

Disconnect the engine mount and its bracket from the right side of the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the water pump and power steering support bolt from the timing chain cover. Disconnect the mounting bolts from the timing chain cover and detach the cover. Discard the gasket for the timing chain cover.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored link on the timing chain. Disconnect the attaching bolt for the camshaft sprocket with a socket wrench. Remove the timing chain and the camshaft sprocket. Disconnect the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft with special tools 5048-1, 5048-6 and 8539.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until its timing arrow points straight up. Lubricate the new timing chain and the sprockets with engine oil. Place the timing chain onto the camshaft sprocket so that the plated link aligns with the dot on the camshaft sprocket.

6

Put the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket so that the other plated link on the timing chain aligns with the dot on the crankshaft sprocket. Position the camshaft so that its timing arrow points straight down and install the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft. Tighten the bolt on the camshaft sprocket 40 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

7

Install the crankshaft sprocket on the the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft two full turns and align its timing marks once again.

8

Clean the mating surfaces n the timing chain with a shop towel. Install a new gasket onto the timing chain cover so the edge of the gasket is 0.02 in. past the edge of the cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the flats of the oil pump drive are vertical. Install the oil pump to the crankshaft so that the flats of the oil pump rotor align with the flats of the crankshaft.

9

Replace the timing chain cover and fasten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Tighten the 8mm bolts to 20 ft. lbs. and tighten the 10mm bolts to 40 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the water pump and bolt for the power steering support to the timing chain cover. Replace the damper to the crankshaft.

10

Install the bracket for the engine mount. bracket with a socket wrench. Tighten the 10mm bolts to 40 ft. lbs. and tighten the 8mm bolts to 21 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the remaining components by performing steps one and two in reverse order. Fill the radiator with fresh coolant, and fill the engine with new oil. Start the engine and correct any fluid leaks.

The function of a crankshaft pulley is to drive the serpentine belt and to absorb the resonance from the crankshaft generated by the engine of a vehicle. The crankshaft pulley is a circular wheel connected to the crankshaft and is fixed to the engine by a bolt, which is located in the center of the pulley. Depending on the placement of the timing belt of the vehicle, you will find the pulley located either on the front of the engine or on the side.

Instructions

1

Put on the safety goggles before you begin.

2

Identify and locate the crankshaft pulley. Locate the small plastic roller that presses down on the drive belt at the bottom of the pulley.

3

Release the drive belt off the crankshaft pulley by attaching the locking pliers to the small metal arm (located at the top) of the pulley and pulling it. This will cause the small plastic roller on the tension pulley to lift, and will release the drive belt clear of the crankshaft pulley.

4

Unbolt the crankshaft pulley bolt located at the center of the pulley by fixing the crankshaft bolt removal tool over the crank pulley bolt.

5

Secure the socket end of the impact wrench to the bolt remover tool and set it to turn counter-clockwise.

6

Turn on the air compressor and wait for the compressor to charge up completely before working the bolt loose.

7

Remove the crankshaft pulley by fixing the arms of the crankshaft pulley removal tool securely over the pulley with the bolts that come with the tool.

8

Tighten the bolts on the tool until the crankshaft pulley is free of the crankshaft.

9

Clean the pulley hub of any corrosion or dry rust with a fine emery cloth before installing the new crankshaft pulley.

10

Install the new crankshaft pulley into the engine by fixing the bolt back in the center of the new pulley in the reverse direction of its removal.

11

Replace the drive belt in the reverse direction of its removal and release the locking pliers from the tension pulley before closing the hood of the vehicle.

The exhaust manifold is the area of the vehicle where exhaust gases from the cylinders accumulate prior to being passed into the exhaust pipe. A poor manifold gasket, which is located between the manifold and engine cylinder, can lead to an exhaust leak, indicated by a ticking or tapping noise that is much louder when the engine is cold. As the engine warms up, the noise will dissipate. The procedure will vary slightly depending upon whether your 2002 Envoy is a V6 or V8 engine but, independent of the engine, the repair can be completed with the engine in place.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the batterys negative terminal. Lift the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands.

2

Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust pipe-to-manifold studs and nuts from beneath the vehicle. The bolts are typically rusty. Wait a little while to allow the penetrating oil soak into the bolts.

3

Remove the nuts retaining the exhaust pipe to the manifold, using a socket wrench. On a V8 engine, there will be two exhaust manifolds which are more easily accessed with the front tires and the inner fenderwalls removed, although it is not absolutely necessary.

4

For a V6 Envoy, unplug the oxygen sensor electrical connector. On a V8 Envoy, detach the spark plug wires and remove the spark plugs from the manifold side being worked on. If both manifolds are being removed, detach all spark plug wires and remove all spark plugs.

5

Remove the three heat shield nuts using a socket wrench then remove the heat shield. Place the heat shield aside.

6

Perform the following if you are working on a V8 Envoy. The procedure is dependent upon the side of the vehicle where the manifold is located. For the right side, remove the air cleaner assembly and the oil dipstick. Unbolt the dip stick tube bracket and move the dipstick tube. Remove the EGR valve by removing the pipe to intake manifold mounting bolts, the EGR valve mounting bracket-to-cylinder head bolts and the EGR pipe-to-exhaust manifold mounting bolts. On the left side of the vehicle, simply disconnect the electrical connector from the engine coolant temperature sensor, which is at the front of the cylinder head above the number one spark plug.

7

Remove the exhaust system manifold bolts using an open-ended wrench. Detach the manifold from the cylinder head. Remove the exhaust manifold gasket.

8

Clean the mating surfaces on the cylinder head and the manifold using a gasket scraper to remove all carbon deposits. Check the manifold for cracks and make sure the bolt threads are clean and undamaged.

9

Install a new gasket to the mating surfaces between the cylinder head and the manifold.

10

Install the manifold on the cylinder head. Apply heat-resistant thread locking compound to the bolt threads and then start tightening the bolts by hand. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench in three passes, starting from the center bolt and working your way to the ends. Tighten the bolts to 18 foot-lbs.

11

Reinstall the remaining components in the reverse of removal, tightening the heat shield to 80 inch-lbs. using a torque wrench. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

The 1997 Hyundai Accent oxygen sensor threads into the exhaust manifold beneath the heat deflector under the car. The O2 sensor regulates the fuel consumption of the engine based upon the oxygen saturation of the exhaust. If the gas mileage in your car has inexplicably decreased substantially and the check engine light is on, you may have a failing O2 sensor. Buy a replacement sensor at an auto parts store or Hyundai dealership.

Instructions

1

Raise the Accent with a jack. Rest the car on a set of jack stands.

2

Disconnect the wiring harness from the O2 sensor just beneath the exhaust manifold heat deflector.

3

Remove the bolts on the outer edge of the heat deflector with a socket and ratchet. Set the heat deflector and bolts aside in a safe location. Remove the O2 sensor with an O2 sensor socket and ratchet.

4

Install the new sensor by hand to avoid cross threading it. Tighten the sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Reconnect the wiring harness on the O2 sensor by pressing it into place.

5

Replace the heat deflector. Secure the deflector with the bolts and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet.

6

Raise the car slightly with a jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.