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Hydraulic cylinders are designed to extend and retract with pressure from hydraulic fluid. The hydraulic cylinders are much easier to work with because they connect to the power source with hydraulic hoses. Old style cranes used cables to operate. Today cranes, back hoes and other machines are hydraulically driven. Hydraulic cylinders are used on farm equipment. It is a hydraulic cylinder that raises and lowers the boom into the truck running along side a potato harvester. There are several reasons why you dont want a hydraulic cylinder to go in. One reason may be when transporting equipment on the road.

Instructions

1

Insert two On-Off ball valves, one in each line of the cylinder that you want to hold in the out position. Apply thread tape to the fitting of the ball valves when installing them. Use a wrench to tighten all the fittings to avoid any leaks.

2

Cycle the cylinder in and out several times before extending it to the length you want it at. The cycling is done by running the cylinder in and out, which will bleed any air that entered out of the cylinder and lines when you installed the ball valves.

3

Set the cylinder at the extended out length you desire and turn the levers 90-degrees to shut off both ball valves to prevent fluid movement in the cylinder. This method works well as long as the cylinder does not leak. If this method is not suitable for your situation, you have a different method to follow.

4

Measure the distance between the top of the cylinder rod and the cylinder housing. The cylinder rod is the chrome rod that goes in and out of the hydraulic cylinder.

5

Cut two pieces of angle iron the same length as the measurement of the cylinder rod. Place the angle pieces over the extended chrome cylinder rod and between the cylinder housing and end. Use the muffler clamps to clamp the angle on the top and bottom. The clamps hold the angle pieces in place so that the cylinder rod is prevented from going back in.

The Clifford Performance company manufactures parts and accessories to increase the performance of six-cylinder engines to match the performance of larger V-8 engines.

History

Clifford Performance was established as Clifford Research by aerospace engineer Jack Clifford in 1967. Jack Clifford began developing automobile parts because of his interest in drag racing during the 1950s, which he used to increase the performance of a 1954 Hudson Flathead 6 engine.

Performance

To increase the performance of six-cylinder engines produced in the U.S. in the 1960s, Clifford designed modified parts for the intake and exhaust systems, including an exhaust header and intake manifold. These modifications gave six-cylinder engines a similar performance to the larger, more powerful V-8 engines.

Design

Clifford Performance is headquartered in Wildomar, California, where the company manufactures exhaust headers, cams and intake manifolds. Exhaust headers produced by Clifford Performance are created using 16 gauge tubing.

The 2004 Ford F-150 truck with a manual transmission is equipped with a hydraulic clutch release system. Pressure is generated within the clutch system by depressing the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal actuates the clutch master cylinder and supplies pressurized hydraulic fluid to the slave cylinder on the transmission. Air bubbles can become trapped and suspended within the hydraulic fluid, which can lead to a spongy feel at the clutch pedal and incomplete clutch disengagement. The 2004 F-150 trucks come equipped with either an internal or external type slave cylinder, depending on the engine size, and require a different bleeding procedure for each type.

Instructions

Internal Slave Cylinder

1

Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Place a jack under the front jacking points on the frame rail behind the front wheels and lift the vehicle clear of the ground. Support the vehicle on jack stands.

2

Locate the clutch master cylinder within the engine compartment next to the brake booster and brake master cylinder. Clean the cap of the clutch master cylinder using a shop rag and remove the cap and diaphragm. Fill the master cylinder up to the Full mark with clean DOT 3 brake fluid.

3

Locate the clutch bleeder screw on the drivers side of the transmission, near where the hydraulic brake line enters the transmission. Install the clear vinyl tubing on the bleeder screw nipple and place the loose end of the tubing in a catch pan.

4

Loosen the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to drain from the system until the fluid stream is free of air bubbles. Ensure that the master cylinder does not run dry and add fluid as necessary. Close the bleeder screw.

5

Depress the clutch pedal fully and quickly release it 10 times in a row. Check and top off the fluid in the reservoir. Depress and release the clutch pedal five more times.

6

Install the clutch master cylinder diaphragm and cap.

7

Have a helper fully depress the clutch lever and hold it down. Open the bleeder screw slightly to release any residual air in the system. Close the bleeder screw and then have your helper release the clutch pedal. Repeat as necessary until the fluid stream is free of air bubbles.

8

Ensure that the fluid level in the master cylinder is up to the Full mark. Reinstall the cap and diaphragm.

9

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.

External Slave Cylinder

10

Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Place a jack under the front jacking points on the frame rail behind the front wheels and lift the vehicle clear of the ground. Support the vehicle on jack stands.

11

Locate the clutch master cylinder within the engine compartment next to the brake booster and brake master cylinder. Clean the cap of the clutch master cylinder using a shop rag and remove the cap. Fill the master cylinder up to the Full mark with clean DOT 3 brake fluid.

12

Locate the slave cylinder on the drivers side of the transmission. Push the cylinder into the transmission and rotate it counterclockwise until the cylinder disengages from the transmission. Remove the cylinder from the transmission.

13

Disconnect the hydraulic line support clip from the floor pan of the vehicle. Hold the slave cylinder with the hydraulic line up and the slave cylinder plunger down and the hydraulic line taking as straight of a path as possible to the master cylinder.

14

Slowly push the pushrod into the slave cylinder until it stops, then hold it for five to 10 seconds. Slowly release the pushrod and allow it to extend from the slave cylinder. Repeat this step as necessary until all the air is purged from the system and the fluid in the master cylinder is free of air bubbles.

15

Insert the slave cylinder into the transmission. Push the cylinder in while rotating it clockwise until it snaps into place. Install the hydraulic line support clip onto its mount on the floor pan.

16

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground using the jack.

17

Slowly depress the clutch pedal through its full range of motion and release it 25 times to complete the purging of air from the system.

18

Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and fill it to the Full mark. Install the master cylinder cap.

The Honda Accord is a mid-size car that has been in production since 1976. The 2001 model belongs to the sixth generation of this series, which includes Accords made from 1998 to 2002. The 2001 Honda Accord typically has a four-cylinder 2.3-liter engine with multi-point fuel injection. This engine uses a timing belt to keep the camshaft synchronized with the crankshaft. The procedure for replacing the timing belt requires you to set the crankshaft to the top dead center (TDC) position several times.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the valve cover and upper covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Remove any additional components needed to access the crankshaft. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the white mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the lower cover of for the timing belt. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

2

Remove the lower timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Fasten one of the mounting bolts for the lower timing cover to the adjuster arm of the timing belt tensioner. This will hold the timing belt adjuster in position.

3

Loosen the lock bolt and adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench, and push the tensioner away from the timing belt to relieve the tension on the timing belt. Tighten the adjuster nut on the timing belt, and pull the timing belt off its sprockets.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the pointer on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the oil pump. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

5

Mount the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner sprocket, water pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order. Loosen the adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench, then tighten it again to apply tension to the timing belt.

6

Install the lower timing belt cover with a socket wrench, and rotate the crankshaft sprocket five to six complete turns clockwise to seat the timing belt on the sprockets. Make sure the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket aligns with the timing mark on the lower timing cover. The word "UP" on the camshaft sprocket must also be in the 12 oclock position.

7

Turn the adjusting nut on the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise by one turn. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to move the camshaft sprocket back by three teeth, and tighten the adjusting nut on the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks once again.

8

Install the upper timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Connect all additional components you removed to access the crankshaft. Replace the valve cover.

The BMW E28 is one of the companys 5-Series line of cars. It was manufactured between 1981 and 1988, and came standard with a 24 valve cylinder head engine known as the S38. Like all vehicles, the E28 requires regular maintenance. If you find that one or more of your cylinder heads are beginning to wear out, it is advisable to replace them with new ones. If you dont like spending hundreds of dollars on a mechanics labor costs, it is possible to change the head yourself.

Instructions

1

Unscrew the exhaust pipes and remove them from the exhaust manifold.

2

Unscrew the coolant plug and drain the fluid into your oil pan.

3

Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables.

4

Unscrew the vacuum hose and remove it from the air cleaner along with the sensor.

5

Disconnect the diagnosis and radiator hoses and remove the fuel lines.

6

Pull off the plugs on the fuel connectors and disconnect the ignition coil.

7

Disconnect the vent hose.

8

Remove the nuts from the cylinder head cover with your wrench and set them aside. Remove the cylinder head cover.

9

Remove the 14 exposed bolts of the cylinder head, moving from the middle of the head outward.

10

Remove and replace the cylinder head.

11

Replace the cylinder head bolts, cylinder head cover, vent hose, ignition coil, fuel lines, diagnosis and radiator hoses, air cleaner sensor, vacuum hoses, throttle and cruise control cables, coolant plug, and exhaust pipes in the reverse order that you removed them. Refill your coolant reservoir with the fluid in your oil pan to complete the process.

A head gasket creates the seal between the engine block and head. A cylinder head gasket leak test is a method of determining if the head gasket has failed without removing the head and visually inspecting the gasket.

Method

A cylinder leakage tester and air compressor are required to perform a cylinder leak test. A threaded insert is attached to the spark plug hole and an air gauge, then air is pumped via the compressor into the cylinde. A cylinder leak is determined by monitoring the gauge for pressure loss.

Locating the Leak

There may be various causes for a cylinder pressure leak. During the test, listen and feel for the escaping air to determine the source. Air gurgling through the radiator is the typical sign of head gasket failure. However, a cracked head may also cause air leaks into the radiator.

Alternatives

In addition to the cylinder leak test, there are other methods of testing for a defective head gasket. The cooling system can be pressure checked using a cooling system pressure tester. A block checker is another device that can test the head gasket. The block checker reacts to exhaust gases in the cooling system which indicates a leak.

International Harvester manufactured the 7.3-liter diesel engines that appear in Ford trucks from 1988 to 1992. This engine is most common in Ford trucks with a rated carrying capacity of at least 1/2 ton. The 7.3-liter Ford diesel engine uses a single cylinder head for all eight cylinders in the engine. The cylinder head is on top of the engine block and is part of the combustion chamber. The procedure for removing the cylinder head from a 7.3-liter engine is the same for all Ford trucks.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. This prevents anyone from starting the engine while removing the cylinder head.

2

Put a drain pan under the radiator. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the coolant in the radiator to drain into the pan. Store the coolant for later use.

3

Detach the shrouds for the radiator fan with a socket wrench. Disconnect the fan and clutch for the radiator as an assembly by using tools T83T-6312-A and T83T-6312-B. The mounting nut for the radiator fan and clutch has a left-hand thread, so you must turn it clockwise to remove the nut.

4

Label the electrical wiring on the alternator so you can connect it correctly later and detach the wiring from the alternator. Disconnect the bolts for the alternator and vacuum pump with a socket wrench. Remove these components from the engine block.

5

Disconnect the coolant hose from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel injection pump from the engine block. Disconnect the intake manifold and valley cover from the engine block.

6

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds with a socket wrench. Disconnect the clamp and mounting bolt for the oil dipstick tube. Detach the oil dipstick tube from the cylinder head and lower the vehicle.

7

Disconnect the valve covers with a socket wrench and remove the rocker arms from the engine block. Record the position of each push rod, so you can re-install them correctly later. Remove the push rods from the engine block.

8

Remove the fuel injector nozzles and glow plugs from the engine block with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Install lifting eyes on each end of the cylinder block with tool T70P-6000.

9

Lift the cylinder head from the engine block with the lifting eyes. Use caution to prevent the pre-chambers of the cylinder head from falling onto the engine when you remove the cylinder head.

Wheel cylinders hold and control the brake fluid and control pressure in a rear (sometimes front) drum brake housing. They sit at the top of the backing plate between the brake shoes. Leaking wheel cylinders can result in a spongy brake pedal, and sometimes no brake pedal at all if the brake fluid drains out. All brake cylinders can be rebuilt, using replacement kits, a few tools and some acquired knowledge.

Variable Speed Drill

One of the most versatile brake honing tools has been around for a long time, but the do-it-yourself vehicle owner may not have noticed its connection with brake repair. The electric hand-held drill plays an important role in honing out wheel cylinder bores. A drill motor with a 90-degree angle affords the best leverage and aim for getting into tight spots. The reversible option allows the drill to be pulled backward without chafing, or moved back and forth, which cross-hatches the cylinder bore, making for better surface smoothness. The variable speed feature allows the RPM to be increased or decreased on demand. The slow variable speed option also offers much safer material removal. Variable speed drills for brake cylinder honing perform best in 1/4- and 3/8-inch drive sizes.

Ball-type Abrasive Flex Hone

The ball-type abrasive flex hone has aluminum oxide, abrasive sanding balls that extend from the shaft that fits neatly into the drill bit. These hones come in a variety of sizes that accommodate large- or small-bore wheel cylinders. The positioning of the sanding balls gives the flex hone a natural cross-hatch "rip" when inserted and extracted from the cylinder bore. The flex hone can finish the job in 20 seconds while using the forward thrust position and offer months of continuous use without being replaced. Shaft sizes allow for 1/4- and 3/8-inch drill motors.

Adjustable Metal Flex Stone Hone

The unique design of the tri-rod metal flex hone makes for speedy and clean boring by using three metal extensions that have sanding pads on their ends. The stones come in kits which include a variety of stone sizes and grits. Fine, medium and coarse stones fit every application for rough cuts and final finishing. Cutting stones can be cleaned or replaced when needed. They can adapt to cylinder bores as small as 3/4 inch in diameter, all the way up to 2-1/2 inch.

Rotational Paper Sander

Paper sanders fit through slots on drill bit shafts; and when coiled, they can be rotated inside the cylinder bore. Paper sanders allow for the flexibility of changing grits or replacing worn sandpaper. Hand dowels can be used manually by simply curling segments of sandpaper around the dowel. Thrusting them in and out of the cylinder bore, while turning, mirrors the cutting movements of drill-mounted flex hones and adjustable metal hones.

The interior diameter of an air cylinder equals its bore. This measurement helps determine the use and maintenance needs of a particular air cylinder.

Measuring Bore

A bore gauge measures the bore. A small-hole gauge user sets the gauge smaller than the bore, inserts the gauge into the cylinder, and adjusts it until he feels a slight pressure when the gauge makes contact with the inside of the cylinder. He removes the gauge and measures the bore with a caliper or micrometer.

Choosing Air Cylinders

Choosing the right air cylinder involves considering the bore, the operating pressure and the stroke. The operating pressure measures the number of pounds per square inch (PSI) the air cylinder can withstand, and the stroke quantifies the distance between fully extended and fully retracted rod positions in inches.

Maintenance Work

Maintenance technicians measure bore to find wear on an air cylinder. The technician takes the bore measurement in intervals throughout the cylinder to determine the degree and placement of the wear. If the bore measurements vary greatly, the cylinder needs re-boring to restore its condition.

Considerations

Accurate bore measurement relies on a fully clean air cylinder, accurate instruments and a feel for the process. Accurate bore values make the difference between the function and failure of projects using air cylinders and the upkeep or decline of the air cylinders themselves.