Find solution

The 2007 Volkwagen Jetta, of German manufacturing, has several problems to consider before purchasing the vehicle. It weathered two serious recalls, which could have greatly impaired the cars performance and even endangered the driver if not fixed. It also has many consumer complaints dealing with various aspects of the car ranging from mechanical failures to cost spent in repairing these issues.

Headlights

In Sept. 2007, a recall was issued for 2007 Volkswagen Jettas because of a malfunction in their headlights. Some vehicles may not have received a cap that disables horizontal aim of the headlights and some vehicles may have contained a cap that disabled the vertical aiming screw. This means that the nighttime illumination of the roadway would have been partially disabled and could contribute to a crash.

Driveshaft Screws

In May 2009, a recall was issued for 2007 Volkswagen Jettas because of loose screws near the driveshaft cover. These screws may not have been properly torqued and could loosen over time, creating a knocking sound when the vehicle was in motion. They could also loosen to the point where the driveshaft could detach from the gearbox. The driveshaft could cause damage to the gearbox in a moving Jetta, damaging the gearbox and causing it to leak oil onto the highway. This could be a potential threat for the driver of the Jetta and other drivers on the roadway.

Other Problems

The 2007 Jetta also has a list of other problems that were not widespread enough to cause recalls. Drivers found problems with their engine, transmission and driveline, steering and suspension, brakes, heating and air conditioning, starting and charging and car accessories. Excessive complaints have been raised about the engine. At certain times the car will not start. Aside from the problems, 2007 Jetta parts are quite expensive to buy and repair, financially setting many drivers back.

Changing the half shaft on a 2007 Ford F150 pickup is a moderately challenging job for the do-it-yourself mechanic. Steering and suspension parts such as the half shaft, are exposed to the elements, and endure many stresses during use. The accumulated wear can make parts stubborn to remove. Read the following instructions caully before attempting the repair, and make sure you have the necessary parts and equipment on hand.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicle in neutral and raise it with the floor jack. Place jack stands securely under the vehicle frame rails.

2

Remove the wheel whose half shaft is to be replaced.

3

Remove the dust cap in the center of the wheel hub using a screwdriver and rubber mallet. You can also use channel lock pliers large enough to grip it.

4

Remove the wheel end nut and discard it.

5

Remove the two vacuum lines at the integrated wheel end, where the axle bolts to the wheel hub.

6

Remove the three integrated wheel end bolts securing the half shaft to the wheel hub.

7

Remove and discard the tie rod end nut. Separate the tie rod from the knuckle using a ball joint separator.

8

Remove and discard the upper ball joint nut. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle using a ball joint separator.

9

Hold the half shaft in. Allow the wheel hub assembly to swing away caully until there is enough clearance to remove the outboard end of the half shaft from the hub bearing. Take care not to damage the hub seal.

10

Remove the integrated wheel end from the half shaft.

11

Remove the six bolts attaching the half shaft flange to the axle flange. Separate the half shaft from the axle and remove the half shaft from the vehicle.

12

Install the integrated wheel end to the outer CV joint housing on the new half shaft. Take care not to dislodge the seal spring when installing.

13

Installation is the reverse of removal, using the following torque specifications: half shaft flange to axle flange bolts, 60 foot-pounds; upper ball joint and tie rod nuts, 110 foot-pounds; integrated wheel end bolts, 9 foot-pounds; wheel end nut, 18 foot-pounds.

There are some vehicles that are somewhat easy to replace headlights on. Unfortunately, the 2007 Dodge Caliber (and many other Dodge vehicles) is not one of them. The owners manual of the vehicle will inform the owner to bring the car to the dealership for service when a headlight burns out. However, this is not always convenient and is rather costly. Replacing the headlight as a do-it-yourself project is possible, but its going to require a degree of mechanical skill.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake securely on the 2007 Dodge Caliber with the headlight switch and engine off.

2

Lift one front corner of the car with a jack and then lower the jack down onto a jack stand placed under the front frame. Repeat this step for the other front corner to elevate the front axle of the car.

3

Turn the ignition key one turn to unlock the steering wheel, and turn the wheel inward away from the respective fender (the drivers side headlight would require turning the wheel all the way to the right and the passenger side headlight would require turning the wheel all the way to the left). Turn the ignition key back to the off position.

4

Loosen the screws of the front splash shield/wheel well with the screwdriver. If necessary to reach behind the wheel well, remove a couple of the screws. The wheel well is plastic and somewhat pliable and manageable.

5

Shine a flashlight in through the wheel well to locate the headlight electrical connection. The inboard connector is the headlight, while the outboard connector is the parking and directional bulb connector on whichever side (drivers or passenger) the headlight is being replaced.

6

Disconnect the electrical connector plug from the socket base of the headlight.

7

Turn the socket base of the bulb counterclockwise a quarter turn. Remove the headlight from the lens assembly and extract it through the opening in the wheel well.

8

Put on a pair of latex gloves before handling the H13 automotive replacement bulb. Skin oil will compromise the glass bulb of the headlight due to the intense heat it burns at when lit.

9

Insert the replacement bulb through the loosened wheel well splash guard and insert it into the lens assembly. Aligning the socket base tabs with the notches in the back of the lens assembly will be required. Use the flashlight to help locate the correct alignment. Turn the socket base of the headlight a quarter turn clockwise to lock it into place and reconnect the electrical connector to the back of the headlight socket base.

10

Test the headlight (both low and high beams) before tightening the wheel well screws and lowering the Caliber.

The high-mount stoplight or combination light assembly, as Hyundai calls it, on the rear of the 2007 Sonata uses a 921 bulb, which is a key part of the Sonatas rear lighting system. The light is designed to be highly visible to drivers behind you when the Sonatas brakes are applied and helps to avoid rear-end collisions. Removal of the Sonatas taillight assembly is required to replace the stoplight.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk of your Sonata and lay on your back inside the trunk looking up at the bottom of the package tray, or rear deck, directly below where the light assembly sits. Locate the two gold-colored Phillips head screws that retain the light assembly.

2

Remove the two retaining screws using a long Phillips screwdriver then move to the inside of the car to access the light assembly on the top side of the rear deck, which is inside the passenger compartment. Lift the rear of the assembly slightly while pulling it forward to free it from the package tray. Turn the assembly over and locate the bulb socket on the underside.

3

Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise to unlock it, then pull it out of the taillight housing. Grasp the bulb, pull it straight out of the socket and discard it. Push a new 921 bulb into the socket; make sure it seats completely.

4

Slide the bulb and socket into the taillight assembly then rotate the socket clockwise a quarter turn, locking it in place. Turn the taillight assembly over, slide the tabs on the bottom of the assembly in the holes in the package tray and slide the assembly forward until it sits flat on the tray.

5

Move to the trunk and reinstall the two Phillips head screws with the long screwdriver. Tighten the screws until they are snug. Do not over-tighten these screws or you will crack the taillight assembly.

6

Close the trunk and test the light; have someone step on the brake pedal or watch the light while you press the pedal. If the light functions properly, the repair is successful.