Showing posts with label replacement. Show all posts
Showing posts with label replacement. Show all posts

Saturday, April 19, 2014

1989 BMW 535I Fuel Pump Replacement Instructions

The BMW 5 series is a mid-size car manufactured by BMW, and the 1989 BMW 535i belongs to the third generation in this series. It is a 4-door sedan with a 6-cylinder 3.4-liter engine that uses fuel injection. This requires an electric fuel pump to maintain the fuel system under high pressure. The fuel pump in a 1989 BMW 535I is on top of the fuel pump tank and is accessible from the rear trunk.

Instructions

    1

    Drain the fuel tank if it contains a high level of fuel. Place one and of a hose into the field tank and the other end into a container approved for gasoline. Siphon the fuel from the field tank into the container.

    2

    Remove the panels in the trunk. Loosen the mounting screws for the access cover in the right front corner of the trunk with a socket wrench and remove the access cover. Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connector for the fuel pump.

    3

    Attach tool 16 1 020 to a socket wrench and use this assembly to turn the mounting ring on the fuel pump assembly counterclockwise. Remove the mounting ring from the fuel pump assembly. Detach the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank. Depress the mounting hooks to remove the fuel pump from the rest of the fuel pump assembly.

    4

    Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel pump. Remove the mounting screws for the fuel check valve and pressure damper with a socket wrench. Pull the fuel pump from its holder. Remove the mounting screw from the fuel filter, and detach the fuel filter from the fuel pump. Discard the O-ring for the fuel pump.

    5

    Place a new O-ring on the new fuel pump and install the fuel pump by reversing steps two through four. Tighten the mounting ring on the fuel pump assembly to between 27 and 31 foot-pounds with tool 16 1 020. Check for leaks in the fuel system and ill the fuel tank.

Read More.. >

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Replacement Procedures for a 2001 Avalon Thermostat

A faulty thermostat can cause a number of problems, such as engine overheating and reduced cooling system efficiency. Although the thermostat is a small, inexpensive component, its absolutely critical to the proper operation of a liquid-cooled engine. The 3.0-liter engine in a 2001 Toyota Avalon contains a thermostat thats designed to open at a temperature of 176 to 183 degrees Fahrenheit. The most common thermostat fault is a failure to open. In this situation, the thermostat valve doesnt open when it should, preventing coolant from properly circulating and causing the engine to overheat.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Allow the engine to cool for at least two hours to prevent burns and other injuries related to the high temperate of the engine and engine coolant.

    2

    Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the radiator cap and place a drain pan underneath the radiator. Loosen the drain valve with a ratchet and metric socket. Allow the coolant to drain out until the stream flowing from the radiator slows to a drip. This may take 30 minutes or more. Close the radiator drain valve. Place the drain pan under the engine, beneath the thermostat housing.

    3

    Remove the bolts holding the V-bank cover in place at the top of the engine with a 5 mm hex wrench. Remove the bolts holding the air cleaner hose and resonator in place with a ratchet and metric socket. Then remove the air cleaner assembly from the vehicle.

    4

    Squeeze the spring clamps holding the heater hoses to the water inlet with a pair of pliers and slide them down the water hoses. Pull the heater hoses off of the water inlet.

    5

    Disconnect the coolant temperature sensors electrical connector. Remove the nut holding the wire protector to the water inlet with a ratchet and metric socket and remove the protector from the inlet.

    6

    Remove the bolts holding the water inlet pipe to the water inlet with a ratchet and metric socket. Remove the water inlet pipe from the water inlet.

    7

    Remove the nuts holding the water inlet to the cylinder head, then remove the water inlet from the cylinder head. Remove the thermostat from the inlet.

Installation

    8

    Install a new gasket onto the new thermostat. Set the water pump inside the cylinder head opening so that the small jiggle valve on top of the in line with the top-center water inlet valve mounting stud.

    9

    Set the water inlet valve onto the cylinder head so the cylinder head studs pass through the holes in the water inlet. Install the water inlet nuts and tighten them to 69 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

    10

    Remove the old O-ring from the water inlet pipe. Install a new O-ring on the water inlet pipe and coat it with soapy water. Install the water inlet pipe into the water inlet, then install the water inlet pipe mounting bolt into the cylinder head and torque it to 14 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

    11

    Set the engine wire protector into position and reinstall its retaining nut with a ratchet and metric socket. Reconnect the coolant temperature sensors electrical connector.

    12

    Connect both heater hoses to the water inlet. Squeeze the spring clamps with a pair of pliers and slide them down the hoses and release the pliers when they are in their original position.

    13

    Set the air cleaner and resonator assembly into position and reinstall its retaining bolts. Set the V-bank cover into position and reinstall its retaining bolts with a 5 mm hex wrench.

    14

    Fill the radiator with a 50/50 mixture of Toyota Long Life Coolant and distilled water until it reaches the top. Replace the radiator cap and fill the coolant reservoir with the same mixture until it reaches the FULL mark. Start the engine and allow it to come up to operating temperature. Check for coolant leaks and then re-check the coolant level. Add coolant if necessary to raise the coolant level to the FULL mark on the side of the coolant reservoir.

Read More.. >

Friday, January 24, 2014

Fuel Pump Replacement on a 2000 GMC Yukon

The GMC Yukon is a full-size SUV very similar to the Chevrolet Tahoe. The Yukon XL has a longer wheelbase than the base model, and the Yukon Denali is a luxury version of the Yukon. The most common engine in the 2000 GMC Yukon is an 8-cylinder 5.3-liter engine that uses sequential fuel injection. All versions of this vehicle have an electric fuel pump that supplies fuel to the fuel injection under high pressure.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the cable on the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Remove the filler cap on the fuel tank, and wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure fitting on the inlet fuel pipe of the fuel injectors. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel pressure fitting. Place the hose for the fuel pressure gauge into a gasoline container, and open the valve on the gauge. Drain and disconnect the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel pressure gauge from the inlet fuel pipe.

    2

    Remove the retaining ring for the fuel sender assembly with a fuel tank sending unit wrench. Disconnect the fuel sender assembly and discard the gasket. Hold the main body of the fuel sender assembly, and disconnect the fuel strainer from the fuel-sending assembly. Discard the fuel strainer.

    3

    Clean the surface of the fuel tank around the mounting area for the fuel-sending assembly. Disconnect the electrical connections to the fuel pump. Unfasten the retaining clip for the fuel level sensors electrical connector, and disconnect the fuel level sensors electrical connector. Loosen the retaining clip for the fuel level sensor and remove the fuel level sensor. Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor.

    4

    Attach the fuel pressure sensor, fuel level sensor and electrical connector for the fuel level sensor to the new fuel-sending assembly. Connect the electrical connector to the new fuel pump. Position the new fuel pump strainer to the new fuel-sending assembly so that it will be horizontal when you install the fuel-sending assembly to the fuel tank. Ensure that the fuel pump strainer does not block the movement of the fuel float arm. Push the strainer to seat it on the bottom of the fuel sender.

    5

    Install a new gasket for the fuel-sending assembly on the fuel tank. Connect the fuel-sending assembly to the fuel tank, and fasten the retaining ring with the fuel tank sending unit wrench. Connect the fuel tank, and use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts for the fuel tank strap to 30 foot pounds. Fill the fuel tank, and replace the filler cap for the fuel tank. Attach the cable for the negative terminal of the battery.

    6

    Turn the ignition on for 2 seconds and off for 10 seconds to pressurize the fuel system. Start the engine, and check for fuel leaks.

Read More.. >

Monday, October 21, 2013

DIY Catalytic Converter Replacement

DIY: Catalytic Converter Replacement

A catalytic converter in a car helps eliminate harmful exhaust emissions that contribute to air pollution. After many years of use, the converter can become clogged and cause the vehicle to run poorly. Usually, the car will have very little power and will not be able to achieve a speed above 20 miles per hour. These are the two main symptoms that a new catalytic converter may be needed.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the catalytic converter by tracking the exhaust pipe from the engine: the catalytic converter will be the first large rectangular-shaped object that you come across. It looks somewhat like the muffler, but it will always come first in the exhaust system before the muffler. Raise the front corner of the car on the side that the catalytic converter is nearest to with a jack. Slide a jack stand under the frame of the car and lower it onto the stand with the jack. Crawl under the vehicle and spray penetrating lubricant onto all of the bolts on the exhaust system near the catalytic converter.

    2

    Use a wrench to unscrew the oxygen sensor that connects to the exhaust system near the catalytic converter. This sensor will be a small piece sticking out about the size of a spark plug. There will be a wire attached to it. Allow the sensor to hang off to the side by this wire.

    3

    Loosen the bolts in the clamp between the catalytic converter and the engine with a wrench then remove the clamp. Move to the back of the converter and locate the bolts in the coupling in the exhaust pipe. Use the wrench to remove these bolts. The catalytic converter and the pipe attached to it will drop down slightly.

    4

    Work the assembly back and forth to pull the pipe apart where it was clamped in front of the converter. You will also be pulling out the pins attached to the exhaust pipe that go through the rubber bushings on the exhaust pipe hangers. When all of this comes loose, you will be able to pull the converter out from under the vehicle.

    5

    Slide the new converter under the vehicle. Lift it and slide the pipe on the front of it onto the exhaust coming from the engine. At the same time, push the pins into the bushings on the hangers. When the catalytic converter is properly positioned, the rear coupling should be ready for the bolts to be reinserted and tightened. Use the wrench and tighten these bolts.

    6

    Move the clamp back into position in front of the converter and tighten the bolts to fasten the pipes securely. Screw the oxygen sensor back into the port on the exhaust pipe and tighten it with the wrench. Start the car and check for leaks. Tighten the bolts if any leaking is present. Remove the jack stand and lower the jack to return the car to the ground.

Read More.. >

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Fuel Pump Replacement in a 1995 Contour

The Ford Contour was a compact four-door sedan that Ford manufactured from 1995 to 2000. Ford also sold the Contour as the Mercury Mystique, and marketed this vehicle as a replacement for the Ford Tempo and Mercury Topaz. The Ford Contour had a 4-cylinder 2.0L engine or a 6-cylinder 2.5L engine. Both of these engines had multi-port fuel injection, which requires a high-pressure fuel pump. The fuel pump in the Ford Contour is accessible from the rear seat.

Instructions

    1

    Detach the cable from the batterys negative terminal. Open the filler cap for the fuel tank, and disconnect the air cleaner. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure relief valve on the fuel rail, and place the end of the drain tube into a container. Open the fuel pressure gauge, and allow the fuel to drain into the container. Remove the fuel pressure gauge, and close the filler cap to the fuel tank. Connect the air cleaner assembly.

    2

    Remove the cushion from the rear seat, and disconnect the grommet on the floor pan. Detach the electrical harness from the fuel pump. Press the tabs on both sides of the quick-connect fittings for the fuel lines of the fuel pump, and gently disconnect the fuel lines.

    3

    Turn the locking ring for the fuel pump counterclockwise with Fuel Tank Sender Wrench D84P-9275-A. Detach the locking ring from the fuel pump, and remove the fuel pump without damaging the fuel gauge sender or fuel filter.

    4

    Discard the O-ring on the fuel tank, and clean the groove on the fuel tank with a shop rag. Apply a thin layer of grease to the new O-ring seal, and place it onto the groove of the fuel tank. Carefully install the fuel pump into the tank to prevent damage to the fuel gauge sender or the fuel pick-up filter.

    5

    Place the locking ring for the fuel pump so that the locking tabs of the locking ring are under the locking ring tabs of the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring clockwise with the fuel tank sender wrench until the retainer ring is against its stops. Connect the fuel lines and electrical connector for the fuel pump. Connect the grommet on the floor pan, and replace the rear seat cushion. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal. Start the engine, and check for fuel leaks.

Read More.. >

Monday, September 23, 2013

How to Paint a Replacement Mirror

How to Paint a Replacement Mirror

An accident can leave your vehicle without a functioning side mirror. It is simple to replace a side mirror, but whether you buy a new replacement mirror or a used one, the mirror probably will not match the paint color of your car. A few coats of paint can transform the replacement mirror and make it look as if it was the original.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the factory paint color code for your car. This is the key to getting the best color match for your replacement mirror. Check the records for your car or contact your local dealer to find the code. Buy the paint and primer from an auto parts store.

    2

    Lightly sand the plastic on the replacement side mirror with fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe away the sanding dust from the mirror with a damp cloth.

    3

    Tape off any areas of the replacement mirror you do not want painted, using painters tape. Set the replacement mirror on a drop cloth in a well-ventilated area.

    4

    Spray the mirror with aerosol automotive primer. Apply the primer in two light coats. Let each coat dry before handling or applying paint or primer.

    5

    Spray the mirror with aerosol automotive paint. Again, apply the paint in light coats. Apply three coats of the paint, letting each coat dry before applying the next. Give the mirror 24 hours to dry before handling it. Remove the painters tape.

Read More.. >