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Close the petcock. Put the motorcycle in fifth gear.

Loosen the fender tab screw with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat.

Loosen the battery cable from the negative terminal with an open end wrench. Disconnect the cable.

Raise the motorcycle on a motorcycle jack until the rear tire clears the ground. Ensure the bike is stable.

Remove the front and rear spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.

Rotate the engine by rotating the rear wheel. Rotate the engine until the front piston, as viewed through the spark plug hole, is at the top of its stroke and both front lifters are at their lowest point in the compression cycle.

Remove the front rocker box cover by loosening the rocker cover bolts with a rocker cover wrench. Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the gasket and discard.

Insert a small, flat head screwdriver blade into the cast loop of the spring cap retainer at the top of the rear pushrod cover for the front cylinder.

Rotate the screwdriver bottom toward the outboard side while pushing down. Remove the spring cap cover. Repeat the procedure for the other front cylinder pushrod.

Collapse the upper and lower push rod covers.

Alternately loosen each of the four rocker arm support plate bolts in 1/4 turn increments until all four bolts are loose. Remove the rocker arm support plate assembly.

Remove the push rod covers from the cylinder head and lifter cover bores. Remove the three O-rings from the push rod covers and discard.

Remove the pushrods by hand.

Assemble the new pushrod covers. Insert the pushrod cover adapters in the cover retainers.

Insert the new pushrods in the cylinder head and lifter cover bores. Install the new cover O-rings included with the new pushrods.

Replace the rocker arm support plate into the rocker housing. Loosely install the four rocker arm support plate bolts.

Tighten the four rocker arm support plate bolts in a cross pattern by tightening each bolt 1/4 turn at a time. Final tighten the bolts to 18 to 22 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench and a "dog bone" torque adapter.

Install a new rocker box cover gasket. Replace the D-ring.

Replace the rocker box cover. Tighten the rocker box cover bolts in a cross pattern to 20 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

Extend the adjusting screws to remove lash in the pushrods.

Compress the hydraulic unit in the exhaust lifter four complete turns and tighten the lock nut.

Adjust slack in the pushrod with your fingers after waiting five minutes. Repeat all procedures for the rear cylinder.

Replace the spark plugs and tighten them with a spark plug socket and socket wrench.

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Shift the motorcycle into neutral.

Start the motorcycle and check for leaks.

Free the drain hose from the boss on the frame below the battery box. Loosen the hose clamp on the drain hose. Remove the drain plug with pliers.

Drain the motor oil into a drain pan. Reseal and replace the drain hose.

Loosen the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Carefully remove the filter by hand. Clean up spilled oil with paper towels.

Remove the oil feed line and fitting from the oil pump with open-end wrenches. Remove the existing oil return line and fitting from the crankcase.

Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant (which Harley recommends) or the equivalent to the replacement oil pump and crankcase fittings included with your oil cooler kit. Attach the fittings to the oil pump and crankcase. Tighten the fittings to 60 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

Attach but do not tighten the oil cooler return hose to the crankcase fitting and the cooler supply hose to the oil pump fitting.

Remove the clutch cable and wire harness clips from the frames left down tube behind the forks. Install the oil cooler clamps that came with your kit in the same spot.

Attach but do not tighten the oil cooler to the cooler clamps, using the Allen bolts and hex nuts that came with your oil cooler.

Attach the oil cooler hose from your oil pump to the rightmost fitting on the bottom of your new cooler. Secure the hose by tightening the hose clamp with a screwdriver.

Attach the oil cooler hose already attached to your crankcase to the leftmost fitting on the bottom of your oil cooler. It also attaches with a hose clamp and screwdriver.

Arrange the oil cooler so it faces forward. Check for hose kinks. Tighten the cooler clamp screws with a torque wrench to 30 inch-pounds.

Tighten the hose fittings with a torque wrench to 20 foot-pounds. Reattach the clutch cable and wiring harness to the clips on the cooler clamps.

Hand-tighten a new oil filter to the oil filter stud. Add four quarts of motorcycle motor oil to the oil tank.

Start the motorcycle and allow it to run in neutral until the engine is warm. With the engine running, examine all fittings for leaks. Touch the oil cooler to ensure that it becomes warm.

Turn off the engine. Allow the bike to cool, then retighten all fasteners.

Check the oil level with the dipstick. Add oil as necessary.

Remove your right and left saddlebags. If you have throw-over saddlebags, remove the seat by unscrewing the Allen bolt that secures your seat to the rear fender. You will probably not have to remove your saddlebag supports. If you have bolt-on saddlebags, immobilize the nut inside your fender with a box wrench, then loosen the nut on the outside of the fender with a socket wrench.

Raise the bike on a motorcycle jack until the rear wheel is completely off the ground. Make sure your motorcycle is stable.

Remove the lower shock mounting bolt and the washer nut on one side of your Sportster. Set them aside for reuse. Remove the upper bolt, washer and cover and set aside for reuse. Remove the shock absorber. Repeat on the other side.

Install the new shorter shocks, one side at a time. Put thread locker on the lower shock mounting bolt and reinstall. Reinstall the upper shock mounting bolt, using thread locker. Repeat for the opposite side.

Lower the bike carefully and support on the jiffy stand. Reinstall the saddlebags and the seat.

Close the petcock valve. Run the engine until it dies. Unhook the old choke cable from the clip near the horn.

Loosen the two Allen screws on the air cleaner cover with an Allen wrench. Unplug the breather tubes from the air cleaner.

Loosen the air cleaner Allen screws with an Allen wrench and remove the air cleaner. Loosen the backing plate Allen screws and remove the air cleaner backing plate.

Loosen the fuel line hose clamp with a flathead screwdriver and unplug the fuel line from the carburetor.

Label the front and back throttle cables. Remove the cables from the throttle cam.

Gently pull the carburetor out of the intake manifold boot with both hands. Remove the carburetor and choke cable as a single unit.

Unscrew the black, plastic, cable sealing cap on the back of the carburetor that connects the choke assembly to the carburetor body. Remove the spring inside the sealing cab and remove the choke valve by gently lifting the cable up and out.

Thread the wire end of the new choke assembly into the hole in the back of the carburetor. Push the ball and wire down into the slot.

Replace the spring and tighten the sealing cap hand tight.

Thread the new choke knob under the gas tank to the choke knob clip. Replace the carburetor in the intake manifold boot. Snap the choke knob into the clip.

Replace and readjust both throttle cables by hand. Reattach the fuel line to the carburetor using a new hose clamp and a flathead screwdriver.

Reattach the air cleaner backing plate using the Allen screws and an Allen wrench. Reattach the breather tubes by hand.

Reinstall the air cleaner and the air cleaner cover using an Allen wrench.