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Fixing a catalytic converter is a complicated process because of the laws that govern virtually every aspect of installing, maintaining and replacing catalytic converters. The Environmental Protection Agency issued regulations in 1986 that make it illegal to tamper with your vehicles catalytic converter in any way, shape or form. Any repairs made to a vehicles catalytic converter have to be performed and properly documented by a certified mechanic.

Instructions

1

Take your Tundra to an emissions testing facility or exhaust repair shop and have your catalytic converter tested. You have to be able to document that your Tundras converter has stopped working before you are legally allowed to have it replaced.

2

Make sure that your Toyota is no longer covered by the federal emissions warranty. If your 2000 Toyota Tundra does not have 80,000 miles on it yet, then Toyota is required to replace the converter at no cost to you. If your Tundra is still under warranty, take it to your nearest Toyota dealership for repairs.

3

Take the Tundra to the dealership or exhaust repair shop (if it is not already there) and provide them with documentation that the converter is bad. Legally, they are only allowed to replace your converter with a catalytic converter that is the same as the one currently installed on your Toyota. Have the shop replace the catalytic converter. Make sure the shop fills out and submits the warranty card for the new converter, as it is legally required by federal law.

4

Save all documentation relating to the converter swap. If your Tundra has a problem with the catalytic converter or fails an emissions test in the future, you may need this information to get repairs performed and avoid possible fines.

The spark plugs on the 1999 Chevrolet Camaro engine are designed to provide the spark to the combustion chamber. The spark causes the gas fumes inside of the chamber to ignite. This combustion process allows the piston to compress up and down which in return enables the engine to crank and run. The spark plugs are powered by the distributor. As the inside of the distributor is turning, it supplies the power to the plugs. Over time, the plugs will foul out or corrode. Once this happens, change the spark plugs as soon as possible for maximum engine performance.

Instructions

1

Pull the 1999 Chevrolet Camaro into a safe work area and set the parking brake. Open the hood and prop it in place.

2

Locate the row of spark plugs on both sides of the engine block. The six-cylinder engines will have three spark plugs on each side of the engine block and the eight-cylinder engines will have four spark plugs on both sides of the engine block.

3

Move to the driver side of the engine block and remove the first spark plug wire that is closest to the front of the vehicle. Twist and pull out on the spark plug wire at the same time. Only replace one plug at a time to prevent crossing the plug wires.

4

Slide a long extension and a deep-well socket over the spark plug. Position a ratchet onto the extension and turn the spark plug counter clockwise until the plug is loose. Remove the ratchet, extension and socket from the plug and finish unscrewing the plug with your hand. Pull then plug out of the spark plug hole.

5

Screw the new spark plug into the spark plug hole until it is completely hand tight. Position the ratchet, extension and socket over the new plug and tighten the plug another one-quarter of a turn to completely seat the spark plug to the plug hole. Push the plug wire back over the tip of the spark plug until it locks on to the plug. Gently pull out on the plug to ensure that it is secured to the plug.

6

Move to the other spark plugs and repeat the same process for replacing the spark plugs. Be sure to only replace one plug at a time and to make sure that the plug wires are securely attached to the spark plugs.

The 1992 Ford Explorer has an electrical system which consist of a power generating device, power distribution conductors, a power storage device, safety fuses and the various loads or devices that are powered by 12 volts DC electrical current. Electrical problems are one of the most common problems with cars. Knowing how to troubleshoot electrical problems with the 1992 Ford Explorer is a valuable skill and can provide significant cost savings as well.

Instructions

1

Start the Ford Explorer engine and listen to the sound generated by the engine. A slow cranking engine or an engine that wont crank is indicative of a problem with the car battery or starter motor.

2

Turn on the radio and listen to its sound. Press the horn button and listen to the intensity of the sound coming from the horn. Turn on the windshield wipers and then switch the wipers off after a few turns. Any noticeable decline in the performance of the above devices, or their failure to operate, indicates a problem with the battery or alternator, or a blown fuse.

3

Set the dial of the multimeter to 12 volts DC range. Place the tip of the red multimeter probe on top of the batterys positive (red) terminal. Place the tip of the black probe on top of the black (negative) terminal, and look at the multimeter. The multimeter should give a reading of 12.5 to 12.8 volts with the engine off. A lower reading indicates the battery has low charge and needs recharging.

4

Start the car engine and keep the engine idling. Hold the probes of the multimeter on each hand, and place the tip of the red probe on the batterys red (positive) terminal. Touch the tip of the black (negative) terminal with the black probe, and look at the multimeter. A multimeter reading of 13.6 to 14.3 volts is indicative of an alternator that is charging the battery sufficiently. A lower reading is indicative of a defective alternator.

5

Read the owners manual of the 1992 Explorer to know the ampere rating of its alternator. Ask a helper to step on the accelerator gently and increase the vehicles idle speed to 1,200 RPM. Hold the probes of the multimeter on each hand, and place the tip of the red probe on the batterys red (positive) terminal. Touch the tip of the black (negative) terminal with the black probe, and look at the multimeter. The multimeter should display a reading equivalent to the ampere rating stated in the Explorers owners manual. Have the alternator repaired in case the multimeter displays a different figure.

6

Open the hood of the car, turn off the engine, and inspect the battery terminals. Look for corrosion or a build-up of white substance on each terminal. Corrosion or acid build-up on the terminals will cause poor contact between the terminal and the battery cable, thus preventing power from running from the battery to the various electrical devices including the starter. Clean the battery terminals to ensure the battery operates properly.

7

Read the vehicle owners manual to know the location of the fuse box. The Explorers fuse box is typically found under the hood or under the dash. On the lid of the fuse box note the diagram that indicates the fuse position of each particular circuit. In case a particular device is not working, locate the position of the fuse inside the fuse box by reading the labels in the diagram. Replace the fuse with one of equal amperage If the wire in the fuse is broken or appears blackened.

The intake manifold gasket on your Saturn is a malleable material set in between the air intake manifold, the cylinder head and the engine block. The intake manifold gasket prevents air and fuel from leaking by sealing the gap between the cylinder head and the engine block. If your intake manifold is leaking, the car will experience a decrease in gas mileage and poor engine performance if the intake manifold gasket is leaking.

Instructions

1

Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the bolts holding the Saturns air cleaner in place, and remove the hose clamp screws holding the intake tubing to the throttle body. Pull the air cleaner assembly off the throttle body.

2

Disconnect the cable running to the negative battery terminal. Loosen the cable clamp nut and slide the cable off the negative terminal.

3

Label and disconnect all wires and hoses connected to the intake manifold with masking tape and a permanent marker. Note each wire and plugs location on the manifold.

4

Remove the bracket to manifold bolts. Unscrew the retaining nuts and the manifold to cylinder bolts and pull the intake manifold off.

5

Clean the old rubber gasket material off of the gasket mating surfaces with a razor blade, solvent and a clean rag.

6

Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the gasket mating surfaces on both the engine and the manifold.

7

Press the gasket onto the manifold. Make sure you have the gasket perfectly centered on the Saturns manifold.

8

Align the mounting holes on the intake manifold to the engine block and re-tighten all of the bolts you removed in step 5.

9

Reconnect all of the wiring and plugs to the intake manifold, and reconnect the battery.

10

Start the Saturns engine and check for any fuel leaking from the intake.

A parts washer is a key piece of equipment in any repair facility or manufacturing plant. Parts washers utilize water and detergents at high temperatures and pressure to remove grease, oil, bits of metal and other such debris. Detergents designed specifically for parts washers aid in the removal of debris. Liquid soaps work best for degreasing while powders clean most aggressively. Jet sprays or power washing cycles ramp up the cleaning power of the machines.

Instructions

Set Up

1

Unpack the parts washer. Use care when lifting such a heavy object. Discard packing materials but keep warranty information or other accompanying paperwork.

2

Lift the parts washer lid. Remove the pieces of the parts washer packed inside such as the timer, oil skimmer, basket and debris screen. Place these items aside.

3

Move the parts washer into its permanent place. Select a position near a 115V (220AC) electrical outlet outfitted with GFCI, or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, for maximum safety. Do not plug in the parts washer yet!

4

Locate the bottom frame bar inside the washer. Fill the parts washer with water to that point.

5

Return the debris screen and the basket to the parts washer. Close the lid. Plug in the washer.

6

Find the timer on the oil skimmer. Select a time for the daily oil skimming. Fit the oil skimmer onto the parts washer.

7

Move a 5 gallon bucket under the drain spout to catch skimmed oil. Plug in the oil skimmer.

8

Locate the thermostat. Adjust the temperature to the manufacturers recommended setting.

9

Find the wash cycle knob. Select a quick 10-minute cycle.

10

Test the machines safety apparatus by lifting the lid during the cycle. Adjust the sensitivity switch located along the top of the washer if the machine fails to stop when the lid is lifted. Test again.

11

Give the machine 10 to 12 hours to reach the optimum temperature. Add liquid or powder soap according to the manufacturer guidelines.

A rotary power buffer is an excellent method for buffing scratches out of your car, but it comes with a few risks. Improper use of a buffer can lead to permanent paint damage, so it is important to ensure you are familiar with the process before you test your luck on your new ride. Rotary buffing is relatively simple in theory, but requires a bit of practice to perfect. Once you are comfortable with the mechanics of using a power buffer to polish your car, you will be able to make corrections to small paint problems with ease.

Instructions

1

Wash your car thoroughly with a gentle dishwashing soap. It is imperative you start with a clean working surface. A quick squirt of dishwashing soap into a 5 gallon bucket is usually enough to get a nice, sudsy mix.

2

Place sandpaper into a bucket of water and leave it to soak for at least an hour.

3

Wrap the wet sandpaper around the sanding block and start to sand the correct area on your car. Sand each panel in the same direction the wind would travel over it. Keep the sanding surface as wet as you can.

4

Continue sanding until the area you are working on is filled with even, flat paint. At this point, you have successfully removed the clear coat and further sanding will begin to damage the actual paint job.

5

Wash the sanded area again and allow it to dry before continuing onto the polishing process.

6

Add the rubbing compound into the scratches surrounding the sanded area and run your rotary buffer over the surface at about 1,400 rpm with the cutting pad attached. Do not leave the buffer in any one area longer than a couple of seconds, and work the buffer over the entire sanded surface until the compound dries and begins to flake off. Set the rpm speed on the settings dial on the variable speed rotary buffer.

7

Wash the sanded area again and examine it for scratches. If you successfully removed the scratches around the sanded area, you can move on. If not, you will need more rubbing compound and another bit of buffing.

8

Apply polishing pad glaze to the polishing pad and run it over the entire sanded surface. Buff in the opposite direction from the way in which you buffed the rubbing compound until you see the surface reach a high, shiny gloss. At this point, you can continue working to buff out remaining scratches with the polishing pad.

Split rims represent a piece of automotive history hardly used today. Due to the heavy use of inner tubes to keep tires inflated in early vehicles, well before the days of tubeless tires and solid wheel rims, split rims made it easy for a vehicle owner to pull out a flat tube and replace it on the side of the road. However, these rim types had their flaws, which appeared over time as the vehicles aged.

Definition

In a split-rim wheel, the rim that the tire is beaded onto consists of two or more parts. When the tire is deflated the rim nuts can be loosened. The rim halves then separate and come off the tire with a little encouragement from a tire lever tool. Inside the tire and on the rim halves sits the inner tube that keeps the tire inflated; without the inner tube, the air pressure would just squeeze through the halves.

Two-Wheeled Application

Vintage scooters, such as the Italian Vespa and Lambretta scooters, predominantly used split-rim wheels. This feature made it easy for riders to repair a flat on the side of the road, as long as a new inner tube was available inside the glovebox. However, when such tubes failed, the loss of air tends to be catastrophic and can cause a significant accident if the rider is not paying attention at the handles. Unlike solid rim tires that just leak air out until flat, split-rim tires lose air pressure suddenly.

Large Vehicle Application

Split rims can be found on off-road vehicles, old buses and large construction vehicles as well. Again, the intention is to make it easier for the operator to repair the flat tire out in the open rather than having to bring the vehicle in to a mechanics tire-rim separator machine. However, such units can be difficult to actually manage repairs and frequently take some serious grunt power and levering to pull the rims off the tires.

Commercial Truck Wheels

Very old commercial trucks from the World War II era also used split rim wheels. The system worked with two halves, but the wheels had a lock circlip-type solid ring that kept the parts together when assembled. The ring had to be removed first when the air pressure was deflated to then get the parts separated. Half-ton, three-quarter ton, and full one-ton trucks were assembled with these wheel systems and corresponding rim sizes.