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Changing the half shaft on a 2007 Ford F150 pickup is a moderately challenging job for the do-it-yourself mechanic. Steering and suspension parts such as the half shaft, are exposed to the elements, and endure many stresses during use. The accumulated wear can make parts stubborn to remove. Read the following instructions caully before attempting the repair, and make sure you have the necessary parts and equipment on hand.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicle in neutral and raise it with the floor jack. Place jack stands securely under the vehicle frame rails.

2

Remove the wheel whose half shaft is to be replaced.

3

Remove the dust cap in the center of the wheel hub using a screwdriver and rubber mallet. You can also use channel lock pliers large enough to grip it.

4

Remove the wheel end nut and discard it.

5

Remove the two vacuum lines at the integrated wheel end, where the axle bolts to the wheel hub.

6

Remove the three integrated wheel end bolts securing the half shaft to the wheel hub.

7

Remove and discard the tie rod end nut. Separate the tie rod from the knuckle using a ball joint separator.

8

Remove and discard the upper ball joint nut. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle using a ball joint separator.

9

Hold the half shaft in. Allow the wheel hub assembly to swing away caully until there is enough clearance to remove the outboard end of the half shaft from the hub bearing. Take care not to damage the hub seal.

10

Remove the integrated wheel end from the half shaft.

11

Remove the six bolts attaching the half shaft flange to the axle flange. Separate the half shaft from the axle and remove the half shaft from the vehicle.

12

Install the integrated wheel end to the outer CV joint housing on the new half shaft. Take care not to dislodge the seal spring when installing.

13

Installation is the reverse of removal, using the following torque specifications: half shaft flange to axle flange bolts, 60 foot-pounds; upper ball joint and tie rod nuts, 110 foot-pounds; integrated wheel end bolts, 9 foot-pounds; wheel end nut, 18 foot-pounds.

The Volvo V70 wagon is equipped with an advanced traction control system that actively monitors the wheels to ensure proper traction. When the system senses a loss of traction, it retards the engine timing until traction increases. The entire traction system is monitored and controlled by the ABS computer. When the ABS computer detects an issue with the traction control system, it turns on the traction control light. In addition to turning on this light, it records a trouble code that corresponds directly to the problem. Automotive technicians can retrieve this trouble code with an automotive scan tool in order to diagnose and repair the system. In order to reset the traction control light, this code must be erased from the ABS computers memory.

Instructions

1

Stop the engine and turn the ignition forward to the RUN position so that the dashboard lights are illuminated.

2

Find the V70s communications port under the dashboard on the drivers side of the passenger cabin. This port is a 16-pin receptacle that is mounted just out of view, under the leading edge of the dashboard.

3

Plug the scan tools connector into the communications port. Turn on the scan tool and wait while it starts up. Most scan tools run an automatic check of their memory, similar to home computers, before arriving at the menu screen.

4

Look caully at the scan tools screen. Use the menu button on the scan tool to navigate to the ABS menu. Select the option to clear the trouble codes from the ABS computers memory. Watch the screen for a confirmation message that the codes are cleared.

5

Use the menu keys to navigate back to the home screen and power down the scan tool. Disconnect the cable from the communication port and start the engine. Verify that the traction control light is not on or blinking. If the light is off then the traction control system is reset.

The R family of engines from Toyota, produced from 1981-85, were four-cylinder gasoline engines for front-wheel-drive vehicles. The 22R had a displacement of 2.4 liters and a single overhead camshaft. It used a timing chain, which had a lower risk of causing engine damage than a timing belt. The procedure for removing the timing chain from a 22R engine is generally the same for all vehicles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the batterys negative terminal. This prevents the engine from starting during the timing chain removal. Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Pry the cylinder head from the mounting dowels with pry bars in front and behind the valve rocker assembly. Lift the cylinder head off the mounting dowels.

2

Drain the radiator, and detach the hoses from the radiator. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the radiator, and remove the radiator from the vehicle with a socket wrench. Perform this step only if the radiator blocks your access to the timing chain.

3

Disconnect the oil pan with a socket wrench if it blocks your access to the timing chain.

4

Relieve the tension on the drive belts with the belt tensioner, and remove the drive belts from their pulleys. Attach a suitable puller to the crankshaft pulley, and remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

5

Remove the retaining bolts for the water bypass tube with a socket wrench, and detach the tube. Disconnect the heater tube. Remove the bolt for the alternator bracket, and push the bracket towards the alternator to access the timing chain cover.

6

Disconnect the mounting bolts on the timing chain cover with a socket wrench, and remove the cover from the engine. Lift the timing chain off the camshaft damper. Slide the timing chain and camshaft sprocket off the camshaft.

7

Pull the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft by hand. Lift the oil pump spline from the crankshaft, and pull it from the crankshaft by hand.

Removing the battery from your Ford Edge will allow you to test or replace the battery when it is not functioning properly. The battery is under the hood on the drivers side of the engine compartment. If you suspect your battery is malfunctioning, removing it will allow you to take it to an auto parts store or service center to load test and analyze the condition of the battery for you. Many auto parts stores offer this service free, if you bring the battery to them.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface and turn off the ignition. Open and secure the hood. Locate the negative battery cable end on the negative battery terminal. Loosen the retaining bolt on the cable end with a socket and ratchet, lift the cable off the battery and away from the terminal.

2

Loosen the retaining bolt on the positive battery cable end with a ratchet and socket and lift the cable off the battery. Isolate the positive battery cable away from the battery.

3

Locate the retaining bolt on the front of the battery, near the bottom. Remove the bolt and hold-down bracket from the battery with a socket, extension and ratchet.

4

Lift the battery straight up and off the tray. Move the battery out of the battery compartment and set it aside in a safe place.

Automobile warranties come in two forms -- express warranties and implied warranties. An express warranty is the type of written warranty that you receive from the dealer when you purchase a car. These types of warranties can be compared with one another.

Time Frame

Compare the length of the warranties. New cars can carry warranties that are as long as 10 years or 100,000 miles, while used cars can carry warranties as short as 15 days.

Features

Check to see what each warranty covers. Some warranties cover almost anything that can happen to a car, while others cover just a few components on the vehicle. Likewise, some warranties will cover all or most of the repair costs, while others will cover 15 percent or less.

Benefits

Calculate how much you will have to pay out of pocket for a typical expense and how much the warranty will pay for the expense. You can do this by taking the total cost of the expense and multiplying it by the percentage that the warranty does not cover. For example, if a warranty covers 75 percent of a $500 repair job, then your out-of-pocket expense will be 25 percent of the repair job or, in this case, $125 ($500 x 0.25 = $125).

Driving a VW Jetta with a manual transmission can be fun, and it gives you more control over the car. You can use the clutch to decelerate, lower the torque to the wheels, accelerate at higher rpm and even kill the engine. The whole system hinges on a clutch, which you use to change gears in the transmission and keep them from grinding each other during the speeding up and slowing down process of driving. If the clutch begins to feel less responsive or has too much slack, you may need to adjust it.

Instructions

1

Locate the clutch adjustment mechanism in the engine bay of the car.

2

Slide the locking strap down to the top of the mechanisms protective covering.

3

Compress the adjustment mechanism and hook the straps over the lugs protruding from the side.

4

Press the clutch pedal while someone else pulls the clutch cable, taking care to keep the adjustment mechanism compressed.

5

Unhook the locking mechanism straps and depress the clutch pedal several times until the tension is good.

The Ford E-Series is a line of full-size vans that has been in continuous production since 1961. The number in the series indicates the carrying capacity of the van, such that 350 indicates a carrying capacity of one ton. All versions of the E350 use electronic fuel injection, which requires the fuel pump to maintain the fuel system under high pressure. You must remove the fuel tank on the 1996 Ford E350 to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment and engage the starter for 10 seconds to empty the fuel system. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel pump relay. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure you dont start the engine inadvertently while replacing the fuel pump. Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank with a hose and drain the fuel into a gasoline container.

2

Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly and detach the fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and disconnect the filler tube retainers with a socket wrench. Remove the straps for the fuel tank and lower the fuel tank with the floor jack. Move the fuel tank to your work area.

3

Clean the fuel tank around the fuel pump assembly with a shop towel to keep dirt out of the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump assembly counterclockwise with a locking ring adapter for a 1996 Ford E350. Remove the locking ring from the fuel pump assembly and pull the fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank. Discard the old gasket on the fuel tank.

4

Clean the mounting flange for the fuel pump assembly with a shop towel and coat the mounting flange with a thin layer of lubricant meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. Install the new gasket and fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank. Place the locking ring onto the fuel pump assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.

5

Install the fuel tank by performing Step 2 in reverse and fill the fuel tank with fuel. Connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on to pressurize the fuel system.