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Remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Disconnect the rear cover of the timing belt and loosen the timing belt tensioner. Detach the timing belt.

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the oil pan from the engine.

Remove the crankshaft sprocket with Special Tool 6793 and Special Tool C-4685-C2. Disconnect the crankshaft key with a socket wrench and detach the oil pick-up tube from the oil pump. Remove the oil pump and the crankshaft seal from the crankshaft sprocket. Discard the crankshaft seal.

Clean the mounting surfaces for the new oil pump with a shop rag and apply gasket sealer to the mounting surfaces. Install the O-ring into the discharge passage of the oil pump. Fill the oil pump with engine oil to prime it.

Align the rotor flats of the oil pump with the crankshaft flats. Install the oil pump to the block with a new crankshaft seal. Connect the crankshaft key with a socket wrench. Install the crankshaft sprocket with Special Tool 6792 to set the sprocket to the original depth.

Connect the oil pump pick-up tube to the oil pump. Mount the oil pan and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Install the timing belt and connect the rear cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench.

Unbolt the front and rear mufflers from the exhaust bracket (on most motorcycles) with a hex socket and a socket wrench. The size of the socket will vary by motorcycle. Bikes with very accessible mufflers will not require this step.

Loosen the hose clamps that hold the heat shields to the mufflers on most cruiser motorcycles, using a flathead screwdriver.

Examine the bottoms of both mufflers for any screws. Remove any screws you find with a screwdriver.

Remove any end caps from the ends of the mufflers. End caps are decorative trim in various shapes, including "fishtails," that also limit access to the interior of the exhaust. Some motorcycle exhausts have end caps and some dont. They usually attach with a single screw.

Look inside each muffler to determine if the baffles are removable or welded into the muffler. Some baffles slide out after removing an end cap. Harley baffles are welded. Pull removable mufflers out before drilling into them.

Chuck a 12-inch-long, 3/8 inch drill bit into an electric drill. Use the drill to bore a

hole in the approximate center of the baffles in both mufflers.

Replace the baffles into the muffler shells if you removed them. Replace the end caps and any screws.

Replace the heat shields and re-bolt both mufflers to the exhaust bracket where necessary.

Locate the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) port on the drivers side dashboard under the steering column.

Plug the OBD I scanner into the DLC port.

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. This will power on the scanner.

Select the "Clear Codes" or similar option. Wait for the scanner to return to the main menu. This will indicate that the task has been completed.

Unplug the scanner and start the engine. Verify that the Check Engine light has shut off.

Remove the cable on the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from inadvertently starting the engine during the water pump replacement. Place a container under the drain hole for the radiator and remove the radiator drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container and replace the drain plug.

Disconnect the accessory drive belt with a socket wrench, and detach the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Remove the heater hose from the water pump if your vehicle is so equipped.

Detach the upper radiator hose from the radiator with a socket wrench. Disconnect the cooling fan assembly from the engine block, including the fan shroud. Remove the bolts for the water pump pulley and detach the pulley from the engine block.

Remove the mounting bolt for the heater hose pipe with a socket wrench. Release the clamp for the bypass hose on the water pump and detach the bypass hose. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump, and remove the water pump.

Install the new water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the bypass hose to the water pump and attach the clamp for the hose. Apply sealant to the threads on the heater hose pipe. Connect the heater hose pipe, and tighten the mounting bolt to 12 foot-pounds. Spin the water pump to ensure the impeller for the water pump does not contact the timing chain case.

Connect the pulley for the water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the cooling fan assembly and connect the hoses to the radiator. Attach the accessory drive belt. Fill the radiator with coolant and check for leaks in the cooling system.

Raise the hood of the vehicle. The air-conditioning system will have two service ports: a high side and a low side. The low side service port will have a blue cap on it. Both ports are located near the top of the engine compartment and should be visible.

Remove the blue cap from the low side service port. Inside is a schrader valve, which looks similar to a tire valve that you use to inflate tires. The cap is threaded onto the line and must be unscrewed.

Place the side of the low-pressure hose with the valve over the top of a can of rigerant. Lock it in using the handle or screws that come with the hose. Dont turn the valve yet. Thread the other end of the hose over the low-pressure service port, tightening it by hand.

Start the engine of the vehicle and turn the air conditioning to high. Turn the valve on the low-pressure hose clockwise as far as it will go to pierce the top of the can. Turn it counterclockwise to open the valve and allow the rigerant to flow into the system. Shake the can gently as you do this and throughout the charging process. In about one minute, the can will be empty.

Close the valve on the low-pressure hose by turning it clockwise. Remove the low-pressure hose from the schrader valve and replace the cap. Check the operation of the air-conditioning system after a few minutes.

Ride the motorcycle for 30 miles until the oil gets as hot as possible. Park the bike and put on a pair of mechanics gloves.

Loosen the hose clamp on the oil drain line with a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the plug out of the end of the drain line with a pair of pliers drain the hot oil from the tank into a drain pan.

Re-plug, tighten and replace the oil drain line. Position the drain pan under the oil filter on the right front of the bike.

Loosen the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Remove the filter by hand and dump as much of the oil as possible into the drain pan. Mop the spilled oil off the front of the bike with rags. Remove the gloves.

Cut two pieces of standard oil line, with an inside diameter of 3/8-inch and an outside diameter of 5/8-inch, approximately 18 inches long with a sharp knife. The lines must be long enough to extend from the oil filter to the middle of the left down tube.

Slip one end of each of the two new oil lines onto the Jagg oil filter adapter nipples. Tighten the lines to the nipples with two of the hose clamps included with the adapter kit and a flat-head screwdriver.

Position the O-ring included with the kit on the oil filter adapter. Slide the oil filter adapter and O-ring onto the oil filter mounting stud.

Spin the adapter anchor nut onto the oil filter stud and tighten with a 1-inch hex socket, socket extension and socket wrench.

Spin the banjo fitting included with the kit onto the oil filter stud. Spin a new oil filter onto the oil filter stud and hand tighten.

Attach the 1/16-inch rubber shims and the 1-1/8-inch clamps included in the oil cooler kit to the left down tube. Attach the oil cooler to the clamps with its nipples down and the cooling fins facing forward, using the supplied nuts and bolts, hex socket and socket wrench.

Attach the two oil lines from the oil filter adapter to the two nipples on the bottom of the oil cooler using the hose clamps included with the oil cooler kit and a flat-head screwdriver.

Pour three quarts of oil into the oil tank. Start the engine in neutral and run for one minute.

Check for oil leaks while the bike is running. Turn off the engine and check the oil level in the oil tank with the dipstick. It should be about one quart low.

Add oil to the oil tank as needed. Restart the engine in neutral and run for at least five minutes. Check for leaks while the motorcycle is running. Make sure the oil cooler becomes warm.

Ride at speed in a low-traffic area and listen for grinding or clanking noises from the front or rear wheels, especially during weight-shifting periods such as bumps or potholes. Such sounds, or a clunking or grinding sensation in the cycles ride, indicate deterioration in the cycles ball bearings, which must be fixed by a qualified mechanic.

Open the drive unit at the bottom of the engine near the rear tire using a wrench. Drain the fluid from the drive and replace with 100 percent synthetic engine oil to improve engine temperature and smoothness. Grease the splines inside the unit with drive grease.

Pry the starter switch with a straight screwdriver until the switch sits flush with the starter mechanism to fix non-starting or engine-kill problems.

Unscrew the bolt linking the battery cable to the engine frame using a wrench. Check that the cable is clean and not frayed then reattach securely, making sure the cable is securely fastened to the frame and making a clean connection.

Check that the fuel switch is set to "Off" when not riding the bike. Failure to set the switch correctly can result in starting problems that must be addressed by a dealer.

Tighten the bolt running from the engine to the horn-sounding mechanism to reduce rattling sounds in the engine. Use a wrench to fasten the bolt extremely securely, so no rattling is possible.

Run the engine for five to 10 minutes and loosen the lectors from either side of the engine using a screwdriver or putty knife. Tighten the fasteners on the back of the lectors with an Allen key and push back into place.

Tighten the header nuts at the exhaust port with a torque wrench to reduce rattling sounds from the nuts. Do not tighten past 7 foot-pounds or the exhaust manifold can be damaged.

Consult a registered Honda dealer if you suspect issues pertaining to bearings or housing, loose lights or turn signals, starter switch, leaking or loose fuel or coolant tanks, frayed or unresponsive tires or any other issues not covered above. Such issues are best fixed by registered professionals and may well be covered by the bikes extended warranty.