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Stick or ARC welding stainless steel requires the use of a welding rod that is compatible with the chemical makeup of the stainless steel you are welding. You can use a higher purity stainless steel welding rod for lower grade stainless steel, but not vice versa. For example, a 316L rod can weld 304-grade stainless steel, but you cannot produce a weld with structural integrity using a 309L rod to weld 316-grade stainless steel; this is due to crystalline structures that form in the weld joint.

Instructions

1

Place the two pieces of stainless steel flat on the welding table, with the sides that need to be welded resting 1/16 inch apart. Secure the pieces of stainless steel by clamping them to the welding table with self-locking clamps.

2

Turn on the ARC welder and adjust the amperage for the size thickness and type of stainless steel welding electrode you are going to use to weld the stainless steel.

3

Put on your safety glasses, welding helmet and heavy leather welding gloves. Clamp a stainless steel welding electrode in the stinger of the ARC welder and connect the ARC welders ground clamp to the welding table.

4

Align the welding electrode with the joint between the two pieces of stainless steel and lower your welding helmet.

5

Strike and lift the welding electrode on the stainless steel joint to start the ARC between the stainless steel pieces and the welding electrode.

6

Work the electrode over and down 1/8 inch, then back over the weld joint to weld the two pieces of stainless steel together.

7

Remove your welding helmet and tap the weld with the chipping hammer to remove the slag from the stainless steel weld.

8

Allow the weld joint to cool thoroughly before you handle the welded stainless steel--the weld joint will be hot and can cause severe burns.

Speedometers are a simple automotive gauge that most of us take for granted -- until they start malfunctioning. Older analog speedometers often stick due to problems with their speedometer cable or wear and tear damage to the speedometer itself. Digital speedometers and gauges in newer cars that "stick" or remain at a specific speed likely necessitate replacement by a dealership.

Speedometer Cable Lubrication

Older cars and trucks have a speedometer cable that attaches from the transmission or transfer case to the gauge cluster in the cabin of the vehicle. Removing the gauge cluster will give you access to the cable, which resembles a coaxial cable that you attach to your television. Use speedometer cable lubricant, which can be purchased at any automotive supply store, to re-lubricate the cable within its sheath. Reattach the cable, replace the gauge cluster and see if the issue has been resolved.

Broken Speedometer Cable

A broken speedometer cable can cause a speedometer to remain stuck at a specific speed, but will often first exhibit a bouncing speedometer readout. If the cable snapped in such a way so as to prevent the speedometer from falling back to zero, the result would be a stuck gauge. Remove the gauge cluster and replace the speedometer cable by detaching it from the gauge and transmission or transfer case and pulling it through the vehicle firewall. Installation is the opposite of removal.

Damaged Analog Cluster

On older cars, the analog cluster can wear out just as the speedometer cable itself wears out. Unfortunately, the odometer is often built into the speedometer, and replacing the gauge cluster means installing an odometer that does not accurately reflect the mileage on the car. This can be an issue if you choose to sell your car or if you need to file any insurance claims.

Digital Readouts and Newer Cars

Digital speedometer and gauge clusters on newer cars often do not have physical speedometer cables connecting the transmission to the gauge. This can be more reliable as there are fewer moving parts, but means that there are fewer do-it-yourself fixes for a malfunctioning gauge. Contact your dealership for information on possible electrical issues that would cause your speedometer to stick.