Find solution

First introduced in 1947, the Fleetwood is a luxury four-door sedan manufactured by Cadillac in America. Powered by big and powerful V6 and V8 engines, Fleetwood is equipped with a modern twin-turbine fuel pump that delivers enough fuel to feed the needs of this car.

Fuel Pump Operation

The fuel pump is an electric medium-pressure twin-turbine pump which is mounted to the fuel level meter assembly in the fuel tank. The fuel pump delivers pressurized fuel from the pump through an in-line filter to the throttle body injection (TBI) unit and injectors. The electric fuel pump operation is controlled by the electronic control module (ECM) through a fuel pump relay.

Fuel Pump Pressure Specifications

Cadillac Fletwoods fuel pump operates in the range of 62 to 90 kilopascals (9 to 13 pounds per square inch) of pressure when the engine is running.

Part Replacement

The fuel pump is still supplied by Cadillac and is priced at $77.98, as of late 2010. The OEM part number is 25168719.

Compac has been producing measuring instruments such as dial indicators, test indicators, and dial bore gauges since the 1940s. Originally founded as an independent company in Geneva, Switzerland, the company has since merged with the Tesa Division of Hexagon Metrology in Renens, Switzerland, which also produced Bestest, Tesatast, and Interapid indicators.

Compac Test Indicators

Compac produces two types of test indicators, including the single revolution (standard range) model and the multiple revolution (long-range) model. The single-revolution indicators are produced in an inch-reading horizontal model and a metric horizontal model. Each is available in a range of graduations: as small as .0005 millimeter (mm) and as large as .01 mm, and total range as small as .2 mm and as large as .8 mm. The multiple-revolution indicators are also available in inch-reading and metric horizontal models, with both vertical and parallel capabilities in a wide range of specs.

Compac Dial Indicators

Compac produces three variations of dial indicators, including small dial (40 mm), large dial (58 mm), and long-range (25 mm and more) models. The small-dial indicators come in a similar range of inch-reading and metric models as the test indicators. They are also available in waterproof and high-resolution aspects. The large-dial and long-range models are both only available as metric models. A variety of lug backs are available, including metal back with 8 mm fixed shank for all 58 mm models and lug back on and off center with .25-inch hole for all 40 mm models.

Dial Bore Gauges

Compac has produced dial bore gauges both in inch-reading and metric models, though at the time of this article only the metric models are still in production. These indicators are comprised of two sections: the measuring head and the dial bore indicator, both of which can be customized to a range of specs. The dial bore indicators are available in graduations of .002 mm, .001 mm, and .01 mm in standard format, as well as in small dial format at .002 mm and .001 mm. The measuring heads come as wide as small as 3.75 mm and as wide as 500 mm.

History of Compac Indicators

During the 1950 and 1960s, Compac of Geneva produced the best-selling import of indicators and dial bore gauge s in the United States, sold under the name Alina. In Europe, these same indicators were sold under the name Parvus. In the 1970s, the current Compac models began production and have remained almost exactly the same since their inception. They have also been sold under the name Mercer in the UK and as SPI in the United States.

Harley Davidsons original compensator on 95-cubic-inch and larger twin cams may have been inadequate for the added torque produced by the newer engine. Harley now factory installs more robust compensators. There are sometimes electronic problems with fuel injected Harleys that can be difficult to diagnose. The usual procedure for that is to retrieve and translate the trouble codes. Beyond that, troubleshooting a 95-cubic-inch twin cam is not very different from troubleshooting a flathead 45. The process always begins with throwing your leg over the bike and sitting down.

Instructions

1

Open the petcock and extend the choke. Turn the ignition key switch to "On," the handlebar run switch to "On" and start the motorcycle. If the starter does not operate, your battery is dead.

2

Shake the motorcycle from side to side and listen for gas sloshing in the fuel tank. If you hear sloshing and the starter turns over, but the bike does not start, check the spark plugs, the plug wires and the coil.

3

Inspect the spark plug wires for breaks, wear and corrosion from the coil to the plugs. Remove the front spark plug with a socket wrench and a spark plug socket and inspect the plug. If you see anything other than a perfectly intact plug with a light gray or tan coating on the electrodes, your spark plug must be replaced.

4

Start the motorcycle and idle in neutral until the rocker box covers under your left hand are warm to the touch. Ride the motorcycle.

5

Listen as you ride. If you hear knocks or pings and your spark plugs are in good shape then the gasoline in your fuel tank is bad. If you hear a typewriter chattering either your pushrods or your tappets are improperly adjusted. If you hear a squeal when you stopped your brakes are worn out.

6

Change gears. If the bike shifts hard, the shifter rod on the lower left side of the motorcycle may be bent. If the transmission jumps out of gear, the shifter forks in the transmission are improperly adjusted.

7

Brake to a stop. If the brakes do not hold, the brake fluid in your master cylinder is low.

Newer Toyota Camrys are equipped with a bell that warns you to put on your seat belt before starting the car. Some people find it annoying and wish to turn off the chiming. There are instructions in the owners manual on how to do this. You dont need any special tools to turn off this seat belt warning and it will only take a few moments of your time.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the on position, but do not start the engine.

2

Look for a tiny knob on the instrument panel and press it to toggle between the odometer reading and the trip odometer reading. Keep pressing the knob until you see "ODO." Turn off the vehicle.

3

Turn the ignition on but dont crank the engine. Pull the tiny knob out for 10 seconds. While still holding the knob out, put on your seat belt and keep holding the knob for another 5 seconds then release it. The instrument panel will now read "B off."

4

Repeat the above procedure to turn the seat belt warning chime back on.

A carburetor is a device responsible for regulating the amount of fuel and air inside the cylinders of a motorcycle engine in order to maximize performance. The carburetor is a very expensive device to replace and it can become damaged from fuel clogs and mechanical failure. It requires regular maintenance to maintain proper function. If a carburetor starts to have problems, troubleshooting it becomes a necessity to keep the motorcycle in prime running condition.

Instructions

1

Start the motorcycle. If your motorcycle was running fine the last time it was used but then sat for an extended period of time (during the winter for example), the fuel may have broken down and gummed up the carburetor. The most common symptom of this is that the bike will not start properly after sitting for an extended period of time. If this is the case, you will need to remove and clean the carburetor.

2

Run the motorcycle at a low RPM if you are able to. If the bike has trouble running at low RPM when the idle is at 1/4 throttle, the pilot system or the slide valve is the likely culprit.

3

Increase the RPM gradually if the bike is still running. The engine is directly affected by the throttle of the carburetor. If the engine starts having problems between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, the jet needle is more likely the problem and may need replacement. If the problem is happening at more than 3/4 throttle, the main fuel jet in the carburetor is the most likely issue.

Replacing the steering rack on a vehicle is something that shouldnt have to be done often as they are known to be very durable and can last through well over 85,000 miles of driving. However, the time will come when wear or leaks will occur. This is why having information on steering problems that can happen after a replacement rack is installed can be beneficial to automobile owners.

Steering Stiffness

One type of problem that can occur after replacing a steering rack is that the car will not steer as easily as it did before. This can be caused due to a pressure leak in the piston seal of the steering rack. Steering stiffness can also happen when the steering pump fails to produce enough pressure.

Strange Steering

Some steering problems will cause a vehicle to steer to the left or to the right instead of straight ahead. Problems with steering alignment is often the reason for this type of issue. Another reason for this is when pressure is sent to one particular side of the steering rack due to a spool valve leak.

Steering Suggestions

Before replacing the steering rack on your vehicle, it is suggested to flush all the previous fluid from the steering lines and steering pump. Failing to do so can affect the life of your replacement rack as the old fluid is dirty and can be harmful to the new rack.

Defective vehicles that are not able to be repaired are known as "lemons." Vehicle manufacturers must repair, und or replace them in the state of Minnesota.

Duty to Repair

Dealers must repair the vehicle if it fails to conform to express warranties, regardless of the expiration of the warranty or the passage of two years after original delivery date.

Duty to Refund or Replace

Dealers in Minnesota must either replace the vehicle with one of similar value, or und the purchase price within 30 days. The amount is reduced by the lower of ten cents per every mile driven, or ten percent of the original purchase price. Buyers may opt for unds.

Presumption of Non-conformity

If the vehicles braking or steering completely fails to operate, the vehicle is presumed to fail its warranty conformity. The failure must be likely to cause death or serious bodily harm.

Required Consumer Language

Lemon law in Minnesota dictates that buyers must notify dealers, in writing, of any vehicle defects. They must allow the dealer the chance to repair the vehicle, and may submit claims to arbitration.

Hydraulic cylinders are designed to extend and retract with pressure from hydraulic fluid. The hydraulic cylinders are much easier to work with because they connect to the power source with hydraulic hoses. Old style cranes used cables to operate. Today cranes, back hoes and other machines are hydraulically driven. Hydraulic cylinders are used on farm equipment. It is a hydraulic cylinder that raises and lowers the boom into the truck running along side a potato harvester. There are several reasons why you dont want a hydraulic cylinder to go in. One reason may be when transporting equipment on the road.

Instructions

1

Insert two On-Off ball valves, one in each line of the cylinder that you want to hold in the out position. Apply thread tape to the fitting of the ball valves when installing them. Use a wrench to tighten all the fittings to avoid any leaks.

2

Cycle the cylinder in and out several times before extending it to the length you want it at. The cycling is done by running the cylinder in and out, which will bleed any air that entered out of the cylinder and lines when you installed the ball valves.

3

Set the cylinder at the extended out length you desire and turn the levers 90-degrees to shut off both ball valves to prevent fluid movement in the cylinder. This method works well as long as the cylinder does not leak. If this method is not suitable for your situation, you have a different method to follow.

4

Measure the distance between the top of the cylinder rod and the cylinder housing. The cylinder rod is the chrome rod that goes in and out of the hydraulic cylinder.

5

Cut two pieces of angle iron the same length as the measurement of the cylinder rod. Place the angle pieces over the extended chrome cylinder rod and between the cylinder housing and end. Use the muffler clamps to clamp the angle on the top and bottom. The clamps hold the angle pieces in place so that the cylinder rod is prevented from going back in.