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V-belts have a cross section resembling a "V." The narrow end of the "V" taper sits inside the groove of a taper wheel. This increases the contact area between the pulley and the belt. During use the belt stretches and will eventually break. Installing a correctly sized replacement belt between the pulleys will ensure the belt sits under proper tension. A simple method for determining the length of a V-belt exists that allows you to avoid using a complex mathematical formula.

Instructions

1

Wipe the inside groove of the pulleys clean with a rag.

2

Pull a length of 1/8-inch diameter twine around the two pulleys to be connected by the V-belt. Pull the twine tight. Ensure the ends of the twine overlap by 4 inches.

3

Draw a line across the overlapped twine with a permanent marker. Make sure the line is visible on both pieces of twine. Remove the twine from the pulleys.

4

Set the marked twine flat on a firm surface. Hold one end of the twine on the end of a tape measure. Pull the twine taught while it sits next to the tape measure. Read the dimension where the second mark on the twine falls on the tape measure to determine the length of the V-belt.

The 2007 Volkwagen Jetta, of German manufacturing, has several problems to consider before purchasing the vehicle. It weathered two serious recalls, which could have greatly impaired the cars performance and even endangered the driver if not fixed. It also has many consumer complaints dealing with various aspects of the car ranging from mechanical failures to cost spent in repairing these issues.

Headlights

In Sept. 2007, a recall was issued for 2007 Volkswagen Jettas because of a malfunction in their headlights. Some vehicles may not have received a cap that disables horizontal aim of the headlights and some vehicles may have contained a cap that disabled the vertical aiming screw. This means that the nighttime illumination of the roadway would have been partially disabled and could contribute to a crash.

Driveshaft Screws

In May 2009, a recall was issued for 2007 Volkswagen Jettas because of loose screws near the driveshaft cover. These screws may not have been properly torqued and could loosen over time, creating a knocking sound when the vehicle was in motion. They could also loosen to the point where the driveshaft could detach from the gearbox. The driveshaft could cause damage to the gearbox in a moving Jetta, damaging the gearbox and causing it to leak oil onto the highway. This could be a potential threat for the driver of the Jetta and other drivers on the roadway.

Other Problems

The 2007 Jetta also has a list of other problems that were not widespread enough to cause recalls. Drivers found problems with their engine, transmission and driveline, steering and suspension, brakes, heating and air conditioning, starting and charging and car accessories. Excessive complaints have been raised about the engine. At certain times the car will not start. Aside from the problems, 2007 Jetta parts are quite expensive to buy and repair, financially setting many drivers back.

Side post battery terminals are common in some car models, such as General Motors. When corrosion builds up on one or both of the terminals, it can cause interference in the flow of electricity to the vehicle. The result will be a car that wont start. You can prevent this from happening with the simple repair of removing the corrosion from the battery terminal post. Always be sure to follow any additional instructions provided by your vehicles manufacturer.

Instructions

1

Put on the safety glasses and gloves.

2

Unscrew the battery cable clamps from the side battery posts terminal with the adjustable socket wrench. Start with the negative battery cable first, then the positive battery cable. Secure the cables out of the way so they will not flop back and come into contact with the terminal posts.

3

Apply the detergent or a paste made from baking soda and water to each battery terminal post. Scrub with the wire brush to remove corrosion.

4

Rinse with water, taking care not to get any water in the battery vents. Dry thoroughly with a clean, lint-free cloth.

5

Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to each of the side battery terminal posts.

6

Reattach the positive cable to the positive post, first with your hand and then with the socket wrench. Repeat to reattach the negative cable to the negative post.

Engine technology is both a passion and an obsession for car engineers and car aficionados alike. This is due to the fact that the modern internal combustion engine is an imperfect design and could benefit from a few tweaks to squeeze out more power and efficiency from the system.



The Vortec line of cylinder heads was introduced by GM in 1988 as a V6 with a 4.3-liter displacement. This technology created a vortex or pressurized swirl of fuel and air mixture inside the combustion chamber that enables the engine to produce more power while still gaining a marginal amount of fuel efficiency.

Vortec Means Power

Vortec heads instantly added 55 or more horsepower to a regular 350 head with the same displacement. Automotive enthusiasts are quick to note that the 350 and the 5.7 Vortec are essentially the same engine with the same displacement. The 350 designation is the cubic inch measurement that also translates to 5.7 liters.

It is hard to tell the two cylinder heads apart when it comes to the physical aspect of the build, but there are major differences that make Vortec heads more powerful and efficient.

5.7 Vortec Heads and Regular 350 Heads

The intake port of the Vortec head is different and measures 160cc with a modified port that increases the flow velocity. The bowl area is wider around the guide compared with regular 350 heads.

The intake bolt pattern is different and utilizes an eight-bolt attachment. The bolt pattern and the number casting is the quickest way to differentiate a Vortec Head from a regular 350 head. The Vortec head is available in two casting numbers (10239906 and 12558062) that offer identical performance virtues. You can also check the casting mark on the end of the head and check for three triangular saw-tooth casting marks that indicate Vortec potency.

Vortec Intake Valve Seats and Combustion Chamber

The intake valve seat of the Vortec head has a three-angle grind straight from the factory and the combustion chamber design is a radical departure from former GM heads utilized in the market. The Vortec combustion chamber is a kidney-shaped design that promotes better combustion and will have the spark plug located near the center of the chamber.

The regular 350 head utilizes a 90 degree intake bolt angle while the Vortec makes do with a 72 degree bolt angle. Experienced mechanics are all too familiar with the lay out of a Vortex head as all the attachment bolts point straight up when the head is bolted to the engine.

Conclusion

The Vortec head is without a doubt engineered towards producing more power, torque and engine response while improving overall fuel economy. If you plan to change or modify the head of the 350 engine in your car, installing a Vortec head alone will yield positive effects in your quest for power and speed.

The Honda Accord EX wagon was introduced in 1991. The EX was the upmarket version of the Accord wagon, with a 140-horsepower engine and four-wheel anti-lock disc brakes. Accord wagons are known for their reliability, but most owners will need to purchase at least one new battery during their cars lifetime.

About Batteries

Most cars require a 12-volt, six-cell, negative grounded, lead-acid battery. Batteries are produced by a number of manufacturers. Batteries differ in their cold-cranking amps and reserve capacity. BatteryFAQ.org recommends buying a battery with the maximum available reserve capacity and the maximum cold-cranking amps for your climate. Cold-cranking amps (CCA) can vary from 450 to 850. If you live in a colder climate, you should choose a battery rated with greater CCA.

Battery Size

Batteries are classified into "BCI group numbers," commonly erred to as "sizes." The numerical battery size, such as 24, 35 or 75, takes into account the physical dimensions of the battery, whether the terminals are on the top or side, and its polarity. The 1991 Honda Accord EX wagon requires battery size 24. Size-24 batteries are no larger than 10.25 inches in height, 6.8125 inches wide, and 8.875 inches long. Be caul not to buy a size-24F battery, which would have the terminals reversed.

Battery Freshness

Batteries are stamped with a manufacturing date. Since batteries are perishable, you should always select a battery produced within the last year. BatteryFAQ.com recommends only purchasing a battery manufactured in the last six months.

Proper steering control is crucial to driving safety, allowing the driver to maintain accurate control of the vehicle. The idler arm is a component of the steering system in a vehicle. Not all cars have steering systems. Most sport utility vehicles (SUVs) and trucks have steering systems, as do some passenger models.

Identification

The idler arm consists of a ball joint, an arm and pivot bushing. The idler arm is on the passenger side of the frame rail.

Function

The idler arm connects the steering box to the center link. The center link is what turns the hubs and allows a vehicles tires to rotate. The idler arm controls the passenger side steering in a vehicle.

Problems

A faulty idler arm usually leads to the car pulling to one side. Drivers may also notice one tire is more worn than the other. A loose steering wheel is another indicator of a worn out idler arm. Drivers may also notice a noise when turning corners.

A 1994 Ford F450 truck uses a high-pressure fuel pump thats part of an in-tank reservoir assembly, or ITR. The ITR also includes a shuttle selector valve, a supply check valve and a venture jet pump. Your fuel pump must be compatible with your trucks specific engine. The engine in a 1994 Ford F450 may be a 7.3L Diesel, 7.3L Turbo Diesel or 7.5L engine. All versions of the 1994 Ford F450 use electronic fuel injection.

Instructions

1

Drain the fuel tank and disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel pump from the electrical connector, and clean the dirt from the area around the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump.

2

Place a wood dowel against the tabs of the fuel pumps locking ring and hammer the locking ring loose. Turn the locking ring counterclockwise to loosen it. Pull the fuel pump out and remove the gasket from the groove in the fuel tank.

3

Put the new fuel pump gasket into the matching groove of the fuel tank, and place the fuel pump into the fuel tank. Keep the fuel pump and gasket in place as you align the tabs on the locking ring with the matching slots in the fuel tank.

4

Turn the fuel pumps locking ring clockwise until it stops against the tab of the retainer ring. Ensure the gasket for the fuel pump is still in place.

5

Connect the fuel lines and the electrical connector to the fuel pump. Install the fuel tank and connect the cable to the batterys negative terminal. Fill the fuel tank.

Occasionally, you may need to remove the steering wheel from a Mini Cooper in order to replace it due to the wheel having worn out or just because you want to have a different style of steering wheel. Removing the wheel is a job that can be done in less than an hour. Remove the steering wheel yourself, saving you the time and money of having a mechanic do the work for you.

Instructions

1

Unfasten the negative battery cable of the Mini Cooper from the battery post with a socket wrench before removing the steering wheel. Locate the two dimples in the steering wheel column, one on each side, just behind the wheel.

2

Slide a small screwdriver into both dimples, one at a time, and push in on the spring mechanism until you feel the airbag release from the springs. Remove the cover from the center of the steering wheel by hand.

3

Detach the wiring connectors inside the steering wheel with a small screwdriver, prying up on the clip to unlock it and lifting the plug out of the socket. Locate the three trim pieces around the inside of the wheel and unfasten the Torx screws behind the steering wheel that are securing the pieces with a Torx screwdriver.

4

Lift the trim pieces off the steering wheel and detach the electrical connectors on each trim piece by hand, setting the trim pieces out of the way. Disconnect the horn electrical wire from the steering wheel by hand.

5

Remove the steering wheel bolt in the center of the steering wheel with a socket wrench. Pull the steering wheel straight from the column by hand, threading the wires through the center of the steering wheel.

The standard engine in a 1999 Ford Mustang is a six-cylinder, 3.8-liter engine with fuel injection. The intake manifold on a car with fuel injection distributes the combustion mixture evenly to the cylinder head intakes, and is essential for optimizing the performance of the engine. The intake manifold in a 1999 Ford with a 3.8-liter engine has an upper and lower section, which you must remove separately.

Instructions

1

Place a clean, sealable container under the radiator drain and remove the drain plug with a socket wrench. Allow the coolant to drain into the container and seal the container for later use. Replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Connect fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-B to the pressure relief valve on the fuel supply manifold. Place the tube of the fuel pressure gauge into a container approved for gasoline and open the valve on the pressure gauge. Drain the excess fuel into the container to relieve the pressure in the fuel system.

3

Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal with a socket wrench. Remove the intake air temperature sensor and the air intake tube. Detach the cables for the cruise control and accelerator. Disconnect the bracket for the accelerator.

4

Detach the electrical connectors for the exhaust gas recirculation and vacuum regulator solenoids, if your vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the electrical wires to the spark plugs and the ignition coil. Disconnect any additional vacuum lines needed to access the lower intake manifold.

5

Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation valve from the crankcase with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation valve. Disconnect the bracket for the wiring harness of the engine control sensor and push it out of your way.

6

Remove the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel lines from the fuel supply manifold and disconnect the electrical connector for the engine coolant temperature sensor. Remove the fuel supply manifold and fuel injectors from the lower intake manifold as an assembly.

7

Disconnect the upper radiator hose and heater hose from the radiator. Remove the lower intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench.

The Ford Focus is a compact car that Ford began manufacturing for the 2000 model year in North America. The engine for a Ford Focus made before 2005 is a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine uses a timing belt instead of a timing chain, and requires you to replace the timing belt at regular intervals. The timing belt for a 2000 Ford Focus allows the crankshaft to turn the camshaft.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from inadvertently starting the engine. Disconnect the accessory drive belt and its tensioner. Remove the cover for the timing belt.

2

Loosen the lug nuts for the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel and the right splash shield with a socket wrench. Disconnect the pulley for the crankshaft.

3

Turn the timing belt clockwise so that the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets align with their respective marks on the engine.

4

Loosen the bolt for the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Turn the tensioner 1/4 turn counterclockwise with an 8mm Allen wrench. Place a 1/8 in. drill bit into the hole of the timing belt tensioner to hold the tensioner in place. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket.

5

Place the new timing belt on the crankshaft. Complete the timing belt installation by proceeding in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the drill bit from the timing belt tensioner hole to release the tensioner.

6

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two complete turns to align the timing marks once again. Tighten the bolt for the timing belt tensioner to between 15 and 22 pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Connect the crankshaft pulley and tighten its mounting bolt to between 81 and 96 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the right splash shield and right front wheel with a socket wrench.

8

Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Install the accessory drive belt and its tensioner with a socket wrench. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Your 1996 Honda Accords tie-rod ends are the steering components that attach the steering linkage and linkage parts to the steering knuckles with a hardened steel ball stud. A tie-rod end can be replaced alone, but many automotive parts manufacturers recommend replacing the entire tie-rod as a whole and often sell these components fully assembled. You may want to purchase just the tie-rod ends, if available, if you are looking to conduct this repair method. This procedure does not require special tools and can be done at home with little automotive experience or knowledge.

Instructions

Removing the Tie-Rod Ends

1

Unscrew the lug nuts on your Accord slightly, then raise your Accord and support it with jack stands.

2

Remove the lug nuts and take the front wheels off.

3

Loosen the jam nut using one open-end box wrench while holding onto the tie-rod end with another. When the thread is exposed, mark it with some correction fluid to erence the new tie-rods position.

4

Take out the cotter pin on the tie-rod end stud and loosen the nut, but dont remove it.

5

Pry the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm using a two-jaw puller. Now remove the nut and separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm.

6

Separate the tie-rod end from the tie-rod by unscrewing it.

Installing the New Tie-Rod End

7

Screw on the tie-rod end up to the marked point on the tie-rod; you may need your open-end wrench. Place the tie-rod stud into the steering knuckle arm.

8

Screw on the nut to the tie-rod end stud and torque it to 32 foot-lbs with your torque wrench. Install the new cotter pin.

9

Repeat all steps in each section for the other side of your Accord.

10

Install the wheels and screw on the lug nuts finger tight. Lower your Accord and torque the lug nuts to 80 foot-lbs.

The base model of the 1996 Chrysler Town and Country minivan came equipped with a 3.3 liter six cylinder engine. The van included several different standard features including bucket seats, passenger seating for seven, an overhead console, cruise control, power steering, a tilt steering wheel, air conditioning, 15 inch wheels, power door locks and a trip computer. Because the Town and Country is comprised of so many different parts it can be difficult to know what repairs or changes to make. One way to troubleshoot the van is by working through general troubleshooting techniques.

Instructions

1

Look at the fuel line assembly of the Town and Country if you smell gas fumes inside the passenger compartment of the van while you are driving. There could be a loose or damaged fuel line or fuel line connector. There could also be a leaky fuel filter or the fuel tank could be punctured or damaged and leaking fuel. You should also inspect the canister purge valve of the fuel system to ensure that it isnt leaking. Make sure that the carburetor and fuel injectors inside the engine are not worn, dirty or malfunctioning.

2

Check the vans M.A.P. sensor when the engine has an erratic idle. Make sure the sensor is still working properly. Find the EGR valve and look to see if it has become faulty or not too. The fuel injectors could also be dirty or worn or the idle air control valve and idle speed actuator to ensure that they are not damaged, faulty or loose. The throttle position sensor could be incorrectly connected or faulty and the fuel filter could be clogged or dirty. Be sure to also inspect the PCV valve, carburetor, exhaust valves, timing gear, fuel pump, camshaft and ignition points to determine if any of these parts needs to be repaired or replaced.

3

Look at the differential system of the Town and Country when you hear a groaning noise coming from underneath the van while you are driving. You could have a low differential fluid level. You may also have a worn or damaged differential bearing or the wrong type of differential fluid inside the system. If you hear the groaning noise coming from the engine compartment while you are turning your steering wheel, look at the steering pump and power steering cylinder to ensure that they are not faulty. You should also check the power steering hose to make sure that it has been correctly installed and is not leaking.

Ford started production of the Ford Focus in 1999. The models made from 1999 to 2007 were the first generation of this series. The standard engine in the 2003 Focus has four cylinders and a displacement of 2.0 liters. The timing belt on this vehicle synchronizes the movements between the crankshaft and the camshaft. The tension on the timing belt is a critical factor in its installation.

Instructions

1

Open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with socket wrench. Turn the drive belt tensioner clockwise to reduce the tension on the accessory drive belt. Remove the drive belt. Disconnect the tensioner with a socket wrench. Remove the timing belt cover.

2

Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench and disconnect the right splash shield. Remove the pulley for the crankshaft.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Loosen the tensioner bolt on the timing belt with a socket wrench. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise by 1/4 turn with an 8mm Allen wrench. Place a 1/8-inch drill bit into the hole on the timing belt tensioner to hold the belt tensioner in place. Remove the timing belt.

4

Install the new timing belt onto the crankshaft by proceeding in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the drill bit from the hole in the timing belt tensioner. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two turns so that the timing marks align once again. Torque the tensioner bolt for the timing belt to between 15 and 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Install the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench and tighten its mounting bolt to between 81 and 96 foot-pounds. Connect the right splash shield and the right front wheel. Lower the vehicle and replace the timing belt cover. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and mount the drive belt. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The Geo Metro enjoyed popularity since its release in 1989. Geo Metro was released with as a coupe, convertible and sedan with three trim levels. Its fuel efficiency earned it the title Most Fuel Efficient car in America. Some Geo Metros had some issues with the transmission.

Recalls

General Motors issued a recall on the 1997 Geo Metro. The recall went out to owners on September 21, 1998. The 1997 Geo Metros equipped with an automatic transmission contained a faulty neutral safety switch. The shift level appeared to be in park but could be moved without having the key inserted or the shifter being moved. This created a dangerous potential for the vehicle to roll back if parked on an inclined surface. Dealers replaced the shifter assembly to fix the issue.

Signs and Symptoms

Transmission problems manifest in different ways. Low transmission fluid due to a transmission leak is one symptom of a transmission problem. A Geo Metro with low transmission fluid shifts into drive slowly. During driving, gear slippage and rough shifting or failure for the transmission to age are all symptoms of a transmission issue. The check engine light may illuminate if a transmission fault code generates. Using a code retrieval tool, the specific code can be pulled from the vehicles computer. This code will correspond to an error and is useful for a mechanic in transmission diagnosis and repair.

Prevention/Solution

Check the transmission fluid level. Take notice of the fluid color. Brown and burnt-smelling fluid indicates a fluid change is needed. Fluid change intervals correspond to how much a car is driven. More frequently driven vehicles require transmission fluid changes more often. At the first sign of transmission trouble have the engine serviced to avoid further damage and more costly repair.

Chevrolet transmission problems led General Motors to recall 276,729 automobiles in 2009, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). The recall affected 2009 model year Chevy Colbat, HHR, Malibu and Traverse vehicles.

Safety Defect

These 2009 Chevrolets were recalled for failing to comply with Federal safety standards. Per the NHTSA, there is a safety risk that the transmission shift cable adjustment clip might not be fully engaged. This could result in a serious problem if the driver shifts to "Park," and removes the ignition key, but the transmission gear isnt really in "Park" mode.

Risk

The driver might not be able to restart the car, and theres a risk that the car could roll away after the driver has left the vehicle not knowing the transmission gear is not in park, according to the NHTSA. The latter could result in personal injury or property damage.

Remedy

Registered vehicle owners should have received notification of the recall by mail around March 24, 2009. Mailed notifications contained information on where and when to bring the recalled vehicles. Authorized dealers were instructed to inspect the affected vehicles to ensure that the shift cable adjustment clips fully engage and make repairs at no charge.

The thermostat on the 1988 Buick LeSabre is located partially inside the intake manifold and the thermostat housing. Because the thermostat sits higher than the fluid level in the radiator, replacing the thermostat in the LeSabre is an uncomplicated task. Fortunately, the thermostat housing is not hidden among engine accessories. This makes it easier to reach, remove and replace a broken thermostat.

Instructions

1

Follow the upper radiator hose to the point where the hose connects to the LeSabres engine. The metal connector to which the hose connects is the thermostat housing.

2

Disconnect the radiator hose from the housing by squeezing the pressure tabs on the radiator hose clamp together with a pair of pliers. With the pressure released, pull the hose off the housing. A small amount of fluid may run onto the engine block. To minimize this, hold the hose vertical for a few seconds to drain the fluid back into the radiator.

3

Remove the two bolts that secure the thermostat housing to the Buicks intake manifold with a 7/16-inch socket and ratchet. With the bolts removed, apply pressure on the side of the housing with the ball of your hand to break the seal between the housing and the intake.

4

Pull the old thermostat out of the intake manifold and plug the hole with a shop towel to prevent anything from getting into the coolant system of your Buick.

5

Scrape all the old gasket material off the bottom of the thermostat housing and the mating surface of the intake manifold. Brush off any debris with a shop towel.

6

Remove the shop towel from the intake manifold and place the new thermostat into the hole. The end with the large spring submerges into the intake manifold and the end with the pin sits inside the thermostat housing.

7

Place a thin bead of RTV gasket maker on the bottom edge of the thermostat gasket. Allow the RTV gasket maker to firm up for approximately 20 minutes. This creates a small layer of "skin" on the RTV.

8

Place the thermostat housing onto the intake manifold and bolt it into place. Do not wipe off any excess RTV. It serves as additional sealant.

9

Squeeze the pressure tabs on the radiator hose clamp. With pressure released, slide the hose onto the thermostat housing and then let go of the tabs.

Pushrods, on the exterior of the cylinders on the right side of the engine, are part of an old-fashioned connection between the cam shaft and the exhaust and intake valves on your 2001, 883 cubic centimeter, V-twin Harley engine. Pushrods are specific to 883 and 1200 Sportster engines and Big Twins, but their operation, installation and removal is identical in all 2001 Harley V-Twin engines. Adjustable pushrods can conveniently be adjusted without having to first partially disassemble the top end of the engine. The initial top end job needed to install replacement pushrods is not for novices as clearances are tight, and many tools and some skill are required.

Instructions

1

Close the petcock. Put the motorcycle in fifth gear.

2

Loosen the fender tab screw with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat.

3

Loosen the battery cable from the negative terminal with an open end wrench. Disconnect the cable.

4

Raise the motorcycle on a motorcycle jack until the rear tire clears the ground. Ensure the bike is stable.

5

Remove the front and rear spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.

6

Rotate the engine by rotating the rear wheel. Rotate the engine until the front piston, as viewed through the spark plug hole, is at the top of its stroke and both front lifters are at their lowest point in the compression cycle.

7

Remove the front rocker box cover by loosening the rocker cover bolts with a rocker cover wrench. Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the gasket and discard.

8

Insert a small, flat head screwdriver blade into the cast loop of the spring cap retainer at the top of the rear pushrod cover for the front cylinder.

9

Rotate the screwdriver bottom toward the outboard side while pushing down. Remove the spring cap cover. Repeat the procedure for the other front cylinder pushrod.

10

Collapse the upper and lower push rod covers.

11

Alternately loosen each of the four rocker arm support plate bolts in 1/4 turn increments until all four bolts are loose. Remove the rocker arm support plate assembly.

12

Remove the push rod covers from the cylinder head and lifter cover bores. Remove the three O-rings from the push rod covers and discard.

13

Remove the pushrods by hand.

14

Assemble the new pushrod covers. Insert the pushrod cover adapters in the cover retainers.

15

Insert the new pushrods in the cylinder head and lifter cover bores. Install the new cover O-rings included with the new pushrods.

16

Replace the rocker arm support plate into the rocker housing. Loosely install the four rocker arm support plate bolts.

17

Tighten the four rocker arm support plate bolts in a cross pattern by tightening each bolt 1/4 turn at a time. Final tighten the bolts to 18 to 22 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench and a "dog bone" torque adapter.

18

Install a new rocker box cover gasket. Replace the D-ring.

19

Replace the rocker box cover. Tighten the rocker box cover bolts in a cross pattern to 20 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

20

Extend the adjusting screws to remove lash in the pushrods.

21

Compress the hydraulic unit in the exhaust lifter four complete turns and tighten the lock nut.

22

Adjust slack in the pushrod with your fingers after waiting five minutes. Repeat all procedures for the rear cylinder.

23

Replace the spark plugs and tighten them with a spark plug socket and socket wrench.

24

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Shift the motorcycle into neutral.

25

Start the motorcycle and check for leaks.

Produced by Dodge, Durango is a full-sized sport utility vehicle (SUV). It can be equipped with several different Hemi engines. The two powerhouse V-8 engines used in Durango vehicles are the 5.7-liter and the 5.9-liter engine. All Durango SUVs require periodic adjustment, often erred to as "alignment." The factory specifications for the alignment are the same for all 2000 Durango models.

Caster

Caster is both the rearward and the forward tilt of the steering knuckle from the true vertical. Caster is the measurement in angles that is responsible for directional stability. The Durango caster angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. The angle must be +3.10 degrees with the maximum allowable difference of 0.50 degrees on the two-wheel drive (2WD) model and +3.30 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.50 on the four-wheel drive (4WD) model.

Camber

Measured in degrees, camber is the outward or inward tilt of the wheel in relation to the center of the vehicle. The Durango camber angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. Camber angles must be -0.25 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.50 degrees both for the 2WD and 4WD models.

Toe

Toe is the difference between the leading and trailing inside edges of the front wheels. Total angles on the 2WD and 4WD models must be +0.10 degrees with measuring range of 0.06 degrees.

Water pumps push coolant through a vehicles cooling system, using a fan belt or a timing belt. Water pumps can become faulty over time. There are usually signs that its going bad. If the problem is fixed in time, you can avoid costly repairs. You can check for a bad water pump in a few simple steps.

Instructions

Signs of a Bad Water Pump

1

Look for leaks from under the vehicle. When a water pump is going bad, one of the first signs is leaking coolant. Inspect the areas around the radiator and hoses for signs of leaking. If there is leaking, consult a mechanic immediately.

2

Determine if there is overheating. Overheating is a sign that the water pump is leaking and needs immediate attention. Check the temperature gauge on the dashboard to see if it has risen into the hot zone. Also check to see if steam is rising from the engine.

3

Look for pools of green fluid under your vehicle. This is another sign that the water pump is bad. After pulling out of a parking spot, check to see if a green fluid is on the ground underneath the vehicle.

4

Listen for unusual sounds coming from the vehicle while driving. If you hear a whining sound coming from the heating or cooling vents, that indicates that there is a problem with the water pump.

The Ford F series is a line of full-size pickup trucks in continuous production since 1948, with the F-150 models being the most popular. The 1988 Ford F-150 has an early form of fuel injection that uses a low-pressure electric fuel pump. The replacement of the fuel pump itself is a relatively simple task, but accessing the fuel pump requires you to remove the fuel tank. The great majority of the work in replacing the fuel pump on a 1988 Ford F-150 is the removal and installation of the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle and turn off the ignition. Open and secure the hood. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and remove the fuel tank filler cap.

2

Remove the valve cap to the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line and connect the T80L-9974-A pressure gauge to the relief valve. Place the end of the hose for the pressure gauge into a gasoline-approved container. Open the pressure gauge valve. Drain the fuel from the fuel system into the container. Remove the pressure gauge and replace the valve cap on the relief valve.

3

Drain the fuel from the tank. Disconnect the wiring from the fuel-sending unit and the fuel line from the fuel tank. Remove the air relief tube from the fuel tank. Loosen the clamp on the filler neck hose and detach the filler neck from the fuel tank. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel tanks retaining strap. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

4

Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel-sending unit. Clean the fuel tank around the fuel sending unit and disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel sending unit. Turn the locking ring of the fuel sending unit counterclockwise with a hammer and wood dowel. Remove the locking ring and disconnect the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket on the fuel tank.

5

Put the new gasket into the groove on the tank. Install the new fuel-sending unit to the fuel tank while keeping the gasket in place. Align the tabs on the locking ring with the slots on the fuel tank and turn the locking ring clockwise until it is against the retainer ring tab.

6

Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring to the fuel sending unit. Connect the fuel tank and tighten the nuts on the fuel tanks restraining strap to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

The Chrysler Crossfire, largely based on the first-generation Mercedes SLK, was the "first tantalizing fruit" of the short-lived DaimlerChrysler merger, according to Edmunds.com. Check all your vehicles lamps periodically to ensure they are functioning. If the parking lamp on your Crossfire has burned out, replace it straight away. Doing so is an uncomplicated process that needs no tools and does not take much time.

Instructions

1

Turn off the vehicle and ensure the light selector switch is in the "Off" position.

2

Push the sidemarker assembly into the car and slide it forward -- for the front sidemarker light -- and towards the rear -- for the rear sidemarker light. The light assembly will release from the vehicle.

3

Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise. The bulb assembly will release from the sidemarker light. Push the bulb into the assembly and twist counterclockwise, releasing the bulb.

4

Replace the bulb by inserting the new bulb and turning clockwise. Replace the bulb assembly by aligning the tabs on the assembly with the corresponding tabs on the sidemarker light. Twist clockwise to lock it in place.

5

Open the hood and lock it in place to remove the front standing lights. Twist the bulb assembly counterclockwise and remove it from the lector.

6

Push the bulb into the assembly and twist it counterclockwise to remove. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.

Small engine repair includes work on boats, motorcycles, lawn mowers, dirt bikes and all-terrain vehicles. When an engine needs repair, mechanics need specialized tools. The type of tools required depend on the size of the engine and the type of repair. Most repairs require the same basic tools every small-engine repair mechanic should have access to.

Hand Tools

Hand tools are the most commonly used for small engine repairs. Because they are smaller, portable and convenient to use, they are a staple of any mechanics tool supply. Hand tools are especially essential for removing or securing parts in small, tight spaces of an engine. The most commonly used hand tools are wrenches, pliers and screwdrivers.

Power Tools

More complicated repairs might require the use of power tools, such as drills, grinders and electric screwdrivers. Drills and grinders are used to make adjustments to parts for better fit, and electric screwdrivers help remove and secure nuts and bolts more quickly.

Diagnostic Tools

Because engine problems must be diagnosed before repairs can begin, diagnostic tools are important. Diagnostic tools range from compact, small devices to large, sophisticated, stationary equipment. Repairing smaller engines might require the use of both; however, compact, portable devices are more beneficial for mechanics who travel. Smaller diagnostic devices include tools used for detecting bad engine parts and tuning engines, such as compression gauges, ammeters, voltmeters and computerized engine analyzers.

Other Tools

Some repairs require the use of a mechanical jack used for heavy lifting. Jacks are especially important for accessing parts of the engine that extend underneath a vehicle. Small mechanical jacks are portable and compact, whereas large hydraulic jacks are stabilized and best used in a shop atmosphere. Also, safety is an issue in regard to engine repair, especially when power tools or devices with electric current are in use. For this reason, mechanics should always have safety goggles and work gloves nearby.

An exhaust gas recirculation valve is used to reduce the amount of emissions that an automobile puts into the atmosphere. The EGR valve was first used in the early 1970s and is now a standard feature used on most engines.

Operation

The EGR valve redirects a small amount of the exhaust that exits the cylinders through the exhaust valve into the intake manifold. Exhaust is pulled through a small tube via the intake vacuum. The EGR valve stays closed while the engine is cool or idling and opens when the engine is hot or running under a load.

Purpose

At high temperature, oxygen and nitrogen are combined to create nitrogen oxide (NOx). Among other problems, NOx causes respiratory complications and contributes to acid rain. The EGR valve introduces exhaust into the air intake to reduce the temperature of the combustion in the cylinder to prevent or reduce the creation of NOx.

Signs of Failure

When an EGR valve fails, the engine combustion temperature will increase causing performance problems for the automobile while also increasing NOx and hydrocarbon emissions. Engines will tend to knock or ping due to early detonation and the exhaust system may be damaged by the higher temperatures.

Chrysler has used the PowerTech brand for a variety of unrelated engines. One type of PowerTech engine is a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine that appeared in the Jeep Liberty from 2002 to 2005. The oil pump on this vehicle circulates oil throughout the engine to provide lubrication for its moving parts. The Jeep PowerTech 2.4-liter engine has its oil pump on the crankshaft sprocket in front of the engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Disconnect the rear cover of the timing belt and loosen the timing belt tensioner. Detach the timing belt.

2

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the oil pan from the engine.

3

Remove the crankshaft sprocket with Special Tool 6793 and Special Tool C-4685-C2. Disconnect the crankshaft key with a socket wrench and detach the oil pick-up tube from the oil pump. Remove the oil pump and the crankshaft seal from the crankshaft sprocket. Discard the crankshaft seal.

4

Clean the mounting surfaces for the new oil pump with a shop rag and apply gasket sealer to the mounting surfaces. Install the O-ring into the discharge passage of the oil pump. Fill the oil pump with engine oil to prime it.

5

Align the rotor flats of the oil pump with the crankshaft flats. Install the oil pump to the block with a new crankshaft seal. Connect the crankshaft key with a socket wrench. Install the crankshaft sprocket with Special Tool 6792 to set the sprocket to the original depth.

6

Connect the oil pump pick-up tube to the oil pump. Mount the oil pan and fasten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Install the timing belt and connect the rear cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench.

Motorcycle owners drill out stock pipes to make the factory installed baffles in their exhaust pipes less restrictive. The stock baffles in many exhausts, particularly Harleys, severely restrict an engines capacity to breathe in and out. They effectively diminish the size of the engine, which in turn increases the bikes fuel efficiency. In addition, the more restrictive the baffle, the quieter the engine -- something that pleases people who are concerned about noise pollution. Still, some motorcyclists believe that louder and quicker motorcycles are safer to ride. If you are one of those cyclists, and want to drill out the stock pipes on your bike, you can do so in a series of straightforward steps.

Instructions

1

Unbolt the front and rear mufflers from the exhaust bracket (on most motorcycles) with a hex socket and a socket wrench. The size of the socket will vary by motorcycle. Bikes with very accessible mufflers will not require this step.

2

Loosen the hose clamps that hold the heat shields to the mufflers on most cruiser motorcycles, using a flathead screwdriver.

3

Examine the bottoms of both mufflers for any screws. Remove any screws you find with a screwdriver.

4

Remove any end caps from the ends of the mufflers. End caps are decorative trim in various shapes, including "fishtails," that also limit access to the interior of the exhaust. Some motorcycle exhausts have end caps and some dont. They usually attach with a single screw.

5

Look inside each muffler to determine if the baffles are removable or welded into the muffler. Some baffles slide out after removing an end cap. Harley baffles are welded. Pull removable mufflers out before drilling into them.

6

Chuck a 12-inch-long, 3/8 inch drill bit into an electric drill. Use the drill to bore a

hole in the approximate center of the baffles in both mufflers.

7

Replace the baffles into the muffler shells if you removed them. Replace the end caps and any screws.

8

Replace the heat shields and re-bolt both mufflers to the exhaust bracket where necessary.

You can clear the Check Engine light on your 95 Ford Escort using a computerized tool called an OBD I scanner. Retrieve the engine trouble codes using the OBD I scanner and make the necessary repairs before clearing the Check Engine light. If you clear the Check Engine light before repairing the Escort, you can damage the engine, the emissions system or the cars on-board diagnostics (OBD) computer.

Instructions

1

Locate the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) port on the drivers side dashboard under the steering column.

2

Plug the OBD I scanner into the DLC port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. This will power on the scanner.

4

Select the "Clear Codes" or similar option. Wait for the scanner to return to the main menu. This will indicate that the task has been completed.

5

Unplug the scanner and start the engine. Verify that the Check Engine light has shut off.

Chrysler sells a line of Ram pickup trucks under its Dodge brand. The 1998 models belonged to the second generation of Rams, which were in production from 1994 to 2001. The procedure for replacing the water pump in a 1998 Dodge truck depends primarily on its engine. The most common engine in this vehicle is an 8-cylinder 5.2-liter engine that runs on gasoline. The water pump is accessible from the engine compartment and is located in front of the engine block.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable on the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from inadvertently starting the engine during the water pump replacement. Place a container under the drain hole for the radiator and remove the radiator drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain into the container and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the accessory drive belt with a socket wrench, and detach the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Remove the heater hose from the water pump if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Detach the upper radiator hose from the radiator with a socket wrench. Disconnect the cooling fan assembly from the engine block, including the fan shroud. Remove the bolts for the water pump pulley and detach the pulley from the engine block.

4

Remove the mounting bolt for the heater hose pipe with a socket wrench. Release the clamp for the bypass hose on the water pump and detach the bypass hose. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump, and remove the water pump.

5

Install the new water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the bypass hose to the water pump and attach the clamp for the hose. Apply sealant to the threads on the heater hose pipe. Connect the heater hose pipe, and tighten the mounting bolt to 12 foot-pounds. Spin the water pump to ensure the impeller for the water pump does not contact the timing chain case.

6

Connect the pulley for the water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the cooling fan assembly and connect the hoses to the radiator. Attach the accessory drive belt. Fill the radiator with coolant and check for leaks in the cooling system.

Automotive air conditioners lose efficiency over time. This is because an air-conditioning system will lose a small amount of rigerant, or freon, each year. Over the course of a few years, the system will lose enough that youll notice the air is not as cold as it should be. Adding an amount as small as a 1/2 pound can help restore air conditioner function.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the vehicle. The air-conditioning system will have two service ports: a high side and a low side. The low side service port will have a blue cap on it. Both ports are located near the top of the engine compartment and should be visible.

2

Remove the blue cap from the low side service port. Inside is a schrader valve, which looks similar to a tire valve that you use to inflate tires. The cap is threaded onto the line and must be unscrewed.

3

Place the side of the low-pressure hose with the valve over the top of a can of rigerant. Lock it in using the handle or screws that come with the hose. Dont turn the valve yet. Thread the other end of the hose over the low-pressure service port, tightening it by hand.

4

Start the engine of the vehicle and turn the air conditioning to high. Turn the valve on the low-pressure hose clockwise as far as it will go to pierce the top of the can. Turn it counterclockwise to open the valve and allow the rigerant to flow into the system. Shake the can gently as you do this and throughout the charging process. In about one minute, the can will be empty.

5

Close the valve on the low-pressure hose by turning it clockwise. Remove the low-pressure hose from the schrader valve and replace the cap. Check the operation of the air-conditioning system after a few minutes.

Since Harley-Davidson Sportster engines are air-cooled, their three quarts of oil can get very hot in the summertime, especially in desert conditions. Very hot oil is both less slippery and more easily saturated with carbon and other wastes than merely hot oil. Oil coolers increase the volume of oil circulating in the engine and improve the radiation of excess heat away from the engine. A Sportster XL requires a Jagg Slimline Oil Cooler kit. If your Sportster is a 2004 or later model you must also buy a Jagg 4400 Oil Filter Adapter.

Instructions

1

Ride the motorcycle for 30 miles until the oil gets as hot as possible. Park the bike and put on a pair of mechanics gloves.

2

Loosen the hose clamp on the oil drain line with a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the plug out of the end of the drain line with a pair of pliers drain the hot oil from the tank into a drain pan.

3

Re-plug, tighten and replace the oil drain line. Position the drain pan under the oil filter on the right front of the bike.

4

Loosen the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Remove the filter by hand and dump as much of the oil as possible into the drain pan. Mop the spilled oil off the front of the bike with rags. Remove the gloves.

5

Cut two pieces of standard oil line, with an inside diameter of 3/8-inch and an outside diameter of 5/8-inch, approximately 18 inches long with a sharp knife. The lines must be long enough to extend from the oil filter to the middle of the left down tube.

6

Slip one end of each of the two new oil lines onto the Jagg oil filter adapter nipples. Tighten the lines to the nipples with two of the hose clamps included with the adapter kit and a flat-head screwdriver.

7

Position the O-ring included with the kit on the oil filter adapter. Slide the oil filter adapter and O-ring onto the oil filter mounting stud.

8

Spin the adapter anchor nut onto the oil filter stud and tighten with a 1-inch hex socket, socket extension and socket wrench.

9

Spin the banjo fitting included with the kit onto the oil filter stud. Spin a new oil filter onto the oil filter stud and hand tighten.

10

Attach the 1/16-inch rubber shims and the 1-1/8-inch clamps included in the oil cooler kit to the left down tube. Attach the oil cooler to the clamps with its nipples down and the cooling fins facing forward, using the supplied nuts and bolts, hex socket and socket wrench.

11

Attach the two oil lines from the oil filter adapter to the two nipples on the bottom of the oil cooler using the hose clamps included with the oil cooler kit and a flat-head screwdriver.

12

Pour three quarts of oil into the oil tank. Start the engine in neutral and run for one minute.

13

Check for oil leaks while the bike is running. Turn off the engine and check the oil level in the oil tank with the dipstick. It should be about one quart low.

14

Add oil to the oil tank as needed. Restart the engine in neutral and run for at least five minutes. Check for leaks while the motorcycle is running. Make sure the oil cooler becomes warm.

The Honda Valkyrie is a Harley Davidson-style pan-head cruiser motorcycle manufactured from 1997 to 2003. The cycles continue to be valued by collectors and enthusiasts for their vintage-style design coupled with modern manufacturing techniques and components. There are a few known issues with the Valkyrie line of cycles that can be solved by a series of troubleshooting steps.

Instructions

1

Ride at speed in a low-traffic area and listen for grinding or clanking noises from the front or rear wheels, especially during weight-shifting periods such as bumps or potholes. Such sounds, or a clunking or grinding sensation in the cycles ride, indicate deterioration in the cycles ball bearings, which must be fixed by a qualified mechanic.

2

Open the drive unit at the bottom of the engine near the rear tire using a wrench. Drain the fluid from the drive and replace with 100 percent synthetic engine oil to improve engine temperature and smoothness. Grease the splines inside the unit with drive grease.

3

Pry the starter switch with a straight screwdriver until the switch sits flush with the starter mechanism to fix non-starting or engine-kill problems.

4

Unscrew the bolt linking the battery cable to the engine frame using a wrench. Check that the cable is clean and not frayed then reattach securely, making sure the cable is securely fastened to the frame and making a clean connection.

5

Check that the fuel switch is set to "Off" when not riding the bike. Failure to set the switch correctly can result in starting problems that must be addressed by a dealer.

6

Tighten the bolt running from the engine to the horn-sounding mechanism to reduce rattling sounds in the engine. Use a wrench to fasten the bolt extremely securely, so no rattling is possible.

7

Run the engine for five to 10 minutes and loosen the lectors from either side of the engine using a screwdriver or putty knife. Tighten the fasteners on the back of the lectors with an Allen key and push back into place.

8

Tighten the header nuts at the exhaust port with a torque wrench to reduce rattling sounds from the nuts. Do not tighten past 7 foot-pounds or the exhaust manifold can be damaged.

9

Consult a registered Honda dealer if you suspect issues pertaining to bearings or housing, loose lights or turn signals, starter switch, leaking or loose fuel or coolant tanks, frayed or unresponsive tires or any other issues not covered above. Such issues are best fixed by registered professionals and may well be covered by the bikes extended warranty.

Changing the half shaft on a 2007 Ford F150 pickup is a moderately challenging job for the do-it-yourself mechanic. Steering and suspension parts such as the half shaft, are exposed to the elements, and endure many stresses during use. The accumulated wear can make parts stubborn to remove. Read the following instructions caully before attempting the repair, and make sure you have the necessary parts and equipment on hand.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicle in neutral and raise it with the floor jack. Place jack stands securely under the vehicle frame rails.

2

Remove the wheel whose half shaft is to be replaced.

3

Remove the dust cap in the center of the wheel hub using a screwdriver and rubber mallet. You can also use channel lock pliers large enough to grip it.

4

Remove the wheel end nut and discard it.

5

Remove the two vacuum lines at the integrated wheel end, where the axle bolts to the wheel hub.

6

Remove the three integrated wheel end bolts securing the half shaft to the wheel hub.

7

Remove and discard the tie rod end nut. Separate the tie rod from the knuckle using a ball joint separator.

8

Remove and discard the upper ball joint nut. Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle using a ball joint separator.

9

Hold the half shaft in. Allow the wheel hub assembly to swing away caully until there is enough clearance to remove the outboard end of the half shaft from the hub bearing. Take care not to damage the hub seal.

10

Remove the integrated wheel end from the half shaft.

11

Remove the six bolts attaching the half shaft flange to the axle flange. Separate the half shaft from the axle and remove the half shaft from the vehicle.

12

Install the integrated wheel end to the outer CV joint housing on the new half shaft. Take care not to dislodge the seal spring when installing.

13

Installation is the reverse of removal, using the following torque specifications: half shaft flange to axle flange bolts, 60 foot-pounds; upper ball joint and tie rod nuts, 110 foot-pounds; integrated wheel end bolts, 9 foot-pounds; wheel end nut, 18 foot-pounds.

The Volvo V70 wagon is equipped with an advanced traction control system that actively monitors the wheels to ensure proper traction. When the system senses a loss of traction, it retards the engine timing until traction increases. The entire traction system is monitored and controlled by the ABS computer. When the ABS computer detects an issue with the traction control system, it turns on the traction control light. In addition to turning on this light, it records a trouble code that corresponds directly to the problem. Automotive technicians can retrieve this trouble code with an automotive scan tool in order to diagnose and repair the system. In order to reset the traction control light, this code must be erased from the ABS computers memory.

Instructions

1

Stop the engine and turn the ignition forward to the RUN position so that the dashboard lights are illuminated.

2

Find the V70s communications port under the dashboard on the drivers side of the passenger cabin. This port is a 16-pin receptacle that is mounted just out of view, under the leading edge of the dashboard.

3

Plug the scan tools connector into the communications port. Turn on the scan tool and wait while it starts up. Most scan tools run an automatic check of their memory, similar to home computers, before arriving at the menu screen.

4

Look caully at the scan tools screen. Use the menu button on the scan tool to navigate to the ABS menu. Select the option to clear the trouble codes from the ABS computers memory. Watch the screen for a confirmation message that the codes are cleared.

5

Use the menu keys to navigate back to the home screen and power down the scan tool. Disconnect the cable from the communication port and start the engine. Verify that the traction control light is not on or blinking. If the light is off then the traction control system is reset.

The R family of engines from Toyota, produced from 1981-85, were four-cylinder gasoline engines for front-wheel-drive vehicles. The 22R had a displacement of 2.4 liters and a single overhead camshaft. It used a timing chain, which had a lower risk of causing engine damage than a timing belt. The procedure for removing the timing chain from a 22R engine is generally the same for all vehicles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the batterys negative terminal. This prevents the engine from starting during the timing chain removal. Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Pry the cylinder head from the mounting dowels with pry bars in front and behind the valve rocker assembly. Lift the cylinder head off the mounting dowels.

2

Drain the radiator, and detach the hoses from the radiator. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the radiator, and remove the radiator from the vehicle with a socket wrench. Perform this step only if the radiator blocks your access to the timing chain.

3

Disconnect the oil pan with a socket wrench if it blocks your access to the timing chain.

4

Relieve the tension on the drive belts with the belt tensioner, and remove the drive belts from their pulleys. Attach a suitable puller to the crankshaft pulley, and remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

5

Remove the retaining bolts for the water bypass tube with a socket wrench, and detach the tube. Disconnect the heater tube. Remove the bolt for the alternator bracket, and push the bracket towards the alternator to access the timing chain cover.

6

Disconnect the mounting bolts on the timing chain cover with a socket wrench, and remove the cover from the engine. Lift the timing chain off the camshaft damper. Slide the timing chain and camshaft sprocket off the camshaft.

7

Pull the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft by hand. Lift the oil pump spline from the crankshaft, and pull it from the crankshaft by hand.

Removing the battery from your Ford Edge will allow you to test or replace the battery when it is not functioning properly. The battery is under the hood on the drivers side of the engine compartment. If you suspect your battery is malfunctioning, removing it will allow you to take it to an auto parts store or service center to load test and analyze the condition of the battery for you. Many auto parts stores offer this service free, if you bring the battery to them.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface and turn off the ignition. Open and secure the hood. Locate the negative battery cable end on the negative battery terminal. Loosen the retaining bolt on the cable end with a socket and ratchet, lift the cable off the battery and away from the terminal.

2

Loosen the retaining bolt on the positive battery cable end with a ratchet and socket and lift the cable off the battery. Isolate the positive battery cable away from the battery.

3

Locate the retaining bolt on the front of the battery, near the bottom. Remove the bolt and hold-down bracket from the battery with a socket, extension and ratchet.

4

Lift the battery straight up and off the tray. Move the battery out of the battery compartment and set it aside in a safe place.

Automobile warranties come in two forms -- express warranties and implied warranties. An express warranty is the type of written warranty that you receive from the dealer when you purchase a car. These types of warranties can be compared with one another.

Time Frame

Compare the length of the warranties. New cars can carry warranties that are as long as 10 years or 100,000 miles, while used cars can carry warranties as short as 15 days.

Features

Check to see what each warranty covers. Some warranties cover almost anything that can happen to a car, while others cover just a few components on the vehicle. Likewise, some warranties will cover all or most of the repair costs, while others will cover 15 percent or less.

Benefits

Calculate how much you will have to pay out of pocket for a typical expense and how much the warranty will pay for the expense. You can do this by taking the total cost of the expense and multiplying it by the percentage that the warranty does not cover. For example, if a warranty covers 75 percent of a $500 repair job, then your out-of-pocket expense will be 25 percent of the repair job or, in this case, $125 ($500 x 0.25 = $125).

Driving a VW Jetta with a manual transmission can be fun, and it gives you more control over the car. You can use the clutch to decelerate, lower the torque to the wheels, accelerate at higher rpm and even kill the engine. The whole system hinges on a clutch, which you use to change gears in the transmission and keep them from grinding each other during the speeding up and slowing down process of driving. If the clutch begins to feel less responsive or has too much slack, you may need to adjust it.

Instructions

1

Locate the clutch adjustment mechanism in the engine bay of the car.

2

Slide the locking strap down to the top of the mechanisms protective covering.

3

Compress the adjustment mechanism and hook the straps over the lugs protruding from the side.

4

Press the clutch pedal while someone else pulls the clutch cable, taking care to keep the adjustment mechanism compressed.

5

Unhook the locking mechanism straps and depress the clutch pedal several times until the tension is good.

The Ford E-Series is a line of full-size vans that has been in continuous production since 1961. The number in the series indicates the carrying capacity of the van, such that 350 indicates a carrying capacity of one ton. All versions of the E350 use electronic fuel injection, which requires the fuel pump to maintain the fuel system under high pressure. You must remove the fuel tank on the 1996 Ford E350 to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment and engage the starter for 10 seconds to empty the fuel system. Attach the electrical connector for the fuel pump relay. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure you dont start the engine inadvertently while replacing the fuel pump. Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank with a hose and drain the fuel into a gasoline container.

2

Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly and detach the fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and disconnect the filler tube retainers with a socket wrench. Remove the straps for the fuel tank and lower the fuel tank with the floor jack. Move the fuel tank to your work area.

3

Clean the fuel tank around the fuel pump assembly with a shop towel to keep dirt out of the fuel tank. Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump assembly counterclockwise with a locking ring adapter for a 1996 Ford E350. Remove the locking ring from the fuel pump assembly and pull the fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank. Discard the old gasket on the fuel tank.

4

Clean the mounting flange for the fuel pump assembly with a shop towel and coat the mounting flange with a thin layer of lubricant meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. Install the new gasket and fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank. Place the locking ring onto the fuel pump assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.

5

Install the fuel tank by performing Step 2 in reverse and fill the fuel tank with fuel. Connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on to pressurize the fuel system.

A gear drive drive requires two gears for operation. The two gears are spur cut, and the drive gear receives force from the power output. The drive gear then transfers power to the driven gear.

Different Drive Systems

All drive systems require a drive gear. The drive gear is the main transfer from the power source to the driven gear. A belt from the drive gear to the driven gear is a "belt driven" system. Another option is the "chain driven" system. The "chain driven" system uses a chain from the drive gear to the driven gear. The "gear drive" system is direct gear-drive. The drive gear is directly meshed with the driven gear.

Common applications

Gear drives are used in transmissions, rear ends and transfer cases; at times the drive gear will be smaller than the driven gear. Different gear ratios enable the transmission to shift to lower or higher rpm speeds.

Automotive gear drive

Gear drives are used on automotive engines. A "gear drive" usually ers to the timing drive; it replaces the common timing-chain with spur-cut gears. A gear drive is known for the "whining noise" it emits. The teeth of the gears mesh together as the gears turn with the rotation of the engine. This keeps the engine in time.

Electrical problems in Jeep Commander vehicles have led to recalls by Chrysler and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) in 2008, 2009 and 2010. Registered vehicle owners should have received notification from the manufacturer with instructions on where to bring the recalled Jeeps for free repair.

WIN Module Defect

On May 6, 2010, Chrysler recalled 40,131 vehicles, including 2010 model year Jeep Commanders, for a Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) module exhibiting a binding condition of the solenoid latch. It is possible to remove the key from the modules ignition switch before the shifter goes into "park" mode, which may allow the vehicle to roll away and cause a crash.

Airbag Wiring Defect

On April 7, 2009, Chrysler recalled 4,314 vehicles, including certain 2009 Commanders, because a wiring defect may cause the drivers side airbag not to work properly. During manufacturing, the wiring was inadvertently reversed on the steering column control module driver airbag squib connector.

Front Control Module Defect

On February 5, 2008, Chrysler recalled 1,338 Jeeps, including 2008 Commanders, for a manufacturing defect in the front control module that could cause the engine to stall while driving or not to start. The electrical problem may cause the windshield wipers to stop working properly.

Repairing a rusted or cracked truck frame professionally is a desirable skill, both for those who work on big rigs and for do-it-yourselfers restoring older classic trucks or fixing their own trucks to make sure they pass inspection. Whatever the reason, there are a number of steps to performing a professional truck frame repair that you should follow.

Removing Accessory Pieces From the Frame

The first step to professional truck frame repair is to remove any unnecessary pieces of metal, mounting brackets, or other items from the frame. This is important not only so you dont damage these pieces while you are performing the frame repair, but also so that you can check them for damage or other problems while off the vehicle. Make caul notes of what you have removed and where it goes so that youll be able to reassemble everything.

Sandblasting

A key step in successful truck frame repair is to sandblast everything. Sandblasting is an abrasive process that allows for complete removal of rust, old paint and dirt from the metal, so that you can caully inspect the truck frame for hairline cracks or weaknesses. Mark any areas that you may need to repair or replace completely before continuing.

Remove Damaged Areas

Remove any metal areas that are damaged, cracked, or rusted through. By using either a cutting torch, plasma arc cutter, grinder or similar tool, you can get rid of these areas and begin to template and replace them with fresh metal.

Theres nothing wrong with a locked-up torque converter; as a matter of fact, lock-up torque converters have been making automatic transmissions more efficient for decades. Youll only encounter brief periods during your driving cycle where converter lock-up is not beneficial.

Converter Operation

Torque converters are fluid couplers. A turbine fan attached to the outer case (which is bolted to the engine) pushes transmission fluid through a matching turbine on the transmission input shaft. The engine doesnt push enough fluid when idling to engage the transmission turbine. As rpm rises, that fluid will begin to push against and spin the transmission-side turbine, engaging it and moving the car.

The Problem

Because there was no direct connection between the engine and transmission, a non-lock-up converter will always get worse fuel mileage than a manual transmission, which uses a clutch.

Lock-Up Function

A lock-up converter uses a clutch pack very similar to those inside the transmission itself to lock the converter case to the transmission input shaft. At about 25 mph, the computer sends a signal to an electronic actuator inside the transmission to engage the clutch pack and lock the drive line together.

If youre looking for high quality tools to maintain or repair your automobile, you cant go wrong with the excellent quality of tools made in Germany. With a good set of German car tools, it is easy to work confidently on any vehicle, whether built on the metric system or the U.S. standard system. You can rely on your German-made tool sets, since they seldom break and take a long time to wear out.

Stahlwille Car Tools

The Eduard Wille GmbH, of which Stahlwille Tools is a subsidiary, was founded almost 150 years ago. Stahlwilles high quality forged tools are used all over the world. With a Stahlwille car body repair tool set, you can easily fix your auto body problems. Stahlwille also offers specialized tools for vehicle doors and for working with auto glass. If you need tools for your cars carburetors, valves and pistons or for the brakes, the company offers these too. Also, Stahlwille has circuit testers, voltage testers and crocodile terminals. You will find just what you need, and it will be of the best German quality.

Gedore German Car Tools

The Gedore company from Remscheid, Germany, manufactures all its tools in its own facilities. The exacting standard of quality to which the company adheres makes it easy to work with Gedore tools, and the companys wide selection ensures you will find the right tools for any car job. Gedore manufactures tools in the metric and the American standard system, so you can use them on any type of automobile. Whether you need torque tools, wrenches, impact tools or screwdrivers, Gedore has a tool that will do the job. Gedore also manufactures the trolleys for work under your car.

BGS German Tools

BGS has manufactured car tools in Germany for more than 35 years. It offers excellent socket sets in metric and American standard. The companys sockets and many of their other tools are manufactured from chrome vanadium steel and the hardness and torque of all their tools is in accordance with German DIN standards. Their spanners, ratchets and wrenches, also manufactured from hardened, chrome plated vanadium steel, are perfect for getting into hard-to-reach spaces while working on your car. Automotive tools include brake service and tire service tools, glass removal and assembly tools, a full set of engine tools and special sockets and wrenches.

Elora Tools

The Elora-Werkzeugfabrik GmbH was founded in 1924 in Remscheid, Germany. Elora manufactures all kinds of tools and specializes in automotive and auto body tools. It offers a line of special automotive tools geared to German auto brands like Mercedes, BMW, Volkswagen and Audi. If you need special auto piston tools, you might want to check out its piston groove scrapers, ring compressors or piston reset tools. They also offer the highest quality fuel system tools. Its sockets for diesel injection nozzles also fit Japanese car brands like Nissan and Mitsubishi.

A blown head gasket in a Mitsubishi 3000GT can impact the engines performance, as well as the vehicles fuel efficiency. When there is a hole in the gasket or it is overheated, the coolant can mix with the engine oil and damage the block. When a head gasket leak develops, it makes a tapping noise. Replacing the gasket takes between 4 to 6 hours of complete.

Instructions

1

Drain the coolant and oil from the engine. Remove the intake manifold. Unscrew the exhaust manifold.

2

Remove the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft using the MD998754 torque wrench. Remove the timing belt rear cover. Remove the timing belt. Unscrew the power-steering pump-bracket connection and generator-brace connection.

3

Disconnect the vacuum-pipe assembly. Remove the rocker-arm cover. Using the MD998051 torque wrench, unscrew the cylinder-head bolts. Take out the cylinder head. Remove the old cylinder head from the engine block.

4

Lay the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block with the identification mark at the front top. Follow the operations above to reassemble the removed parts.