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The heater in the 1992 Mazda B2600 is a radiator that uses hot coolant from the engine to heat the cab of the truck. The procedure for replacing the heater is the same for all Mazda trucks made from 1987 to 1993.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure the engine doesnt start while replacing the heater. Put a drain pan under the radiator, and open the drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain from the radiator, and replace the drain plug.

2

Disconnect the shield for the water valve on the heaters left side with a socket wrench. Detach the coolant hoses from the heater, and remove the housing for the control cable from its mounting clip on the heater. Disconnect the cable wires from the heaters crank arms. Detach the electrical connector from the fan motor.

3

Remove the glove compartment with a socket wrench to provide clearance for the heater. Disconnect the retaining nuts for the heater that are inside the glove compartment. Detach the defroster ducts from the heater, and pull the heater from the dashboard.

4

Mount the new heater to the dashboard, and align the mounting studs on the heater with the corresponding holes in the dashboard. Fasten the mounting nuts for the heater, and attach the defroster ducts to the heater. Attach the control cable for the defrost door for the heater to the crank arm.

5

Turn the upper control lever to the heat position, and push the crank arm for the heater towards its mounting clip as far as possible. Attach the cable housing to the clip, and fasten the clip to the heater with a socket wrench.

6

Attach the control cable for the water valve to the lever for the water valve. Set the heaters control lever to the hot setting, and push the crank arm for the lever as far towards the mounting clip for the control cable as possible. Fasten the screw for the clip with a socket wrench.

7

Insert the control cable for the recirculation door into the doors crank arm. Bend the cable, and fasten it into place with the retaining screw. Move the center control lever to the REC setting, and push the crank arm for the recirculation door toward the mounting clip as far as possible.

8

Attach the housing for the recirculation door cable to its clip, and fasten the retaining screw for the clip with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fan motor. Attach the coolant hoses to the tubes on the left side of the heater, and fasten the hose clamps. Connect the shield for the heaters water valve with the retaining screws, and install the glove compartment.

9

Replace the coolant in the radiator, and reconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Check for coolant leaks, and ensure the heater is functioning properly.

Youll need to remove the steering column cover, in order to make repairs on your 1993 Eagle Visions ignition switch, steering column or dashboard. This cover surrounds the top and bottom of steering column and includes a hole on the right side for the ignition switch. The cover is made up of two separate pieces that snap together. The bottom piece is secured to the underside of the steering column with three Torx screws.

Instructions

Removal

1

Shift the vehicle into park and remove the keys from the ignition. Pry the hazard light switch button from the button assembly on top of the steering column with a flat-head screwdriver.

2

Tilt the steering wheel to its highest position. Wrap a shop rag around the tilt lever and grip it with a locking pliers. Lock the pliers on the lever, then unscrew the lever and remove it from the column.

3

Remove the screws on the underside of the column shroud with a ratchet and a Torx bit.

4

Pull down on the bottom shroud to separate it from the top shroud. Slide the bottom shroud down and off of the ignition switch.

5

Screw the tilt lever into the adjuster two to three revolutions, adjust the steering wheel downward, and then remove the top shroud piece.

Installation

6

Set the top shroud piece into position, then tilt the steering wheel upward and unscrew the tilt lever.

7

Slide the bottom shroud over the ignition switch and into position beneath the top shroud. Press the two shroud pieces together so they snap into place.

8

Reinstall the Torx screws on the bottom shroud piece.

9

Screw the tilt lever into the tilt mechanism, then wrap it with a shop towel and clamp a locking pliers onto the lever. Screw the tilt lever into place until snug with the locking pliers.

10

Tilt the steering wheel downward and set the hazard light button into position. Press down on the hazard light button until it snaps onto the hazard light switch.

The On-Board Diagnostics computer, or OBD, on your BMW 528i stores trouble codes that come from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. These sensors keep track of the mechanical functions of your vehicle. When you see the ABS or Antilock Brake light flash on your instrument panel, you know there is a malfunction with your braking system. This needs to be looked at and repaired as soon as possible by a qualified mechanic. Once the repairs have been made, you need to reset the brake light to ensure the vehicles computer will continue to properly monitor the braking system.

Instructions

1

Locate the fuse panel cover on the drivers side dashboard, near the foot well. Use your fingers to pull down on it from the top.

2

Find a large port on the fuse panel. Plug the connective end of the OBD reset tool into this port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. Dont turn on the engine, though. This will power on the OBD reset tool automatically.

4

Wait for the codes to flash on the OBD reset tool screen. Use the arrow keys on the reset tool to find and select "Delete" on the menu screen. Some OBD reset tools have a "Delete" button on the face of the tool. Either way, select "Delete" and wait for the ABS light to blink and then turn off on the instrument panel.

5

Unplug the tool from the port and replace the fuse panel cover. Turn off the vehicle and wait 60 seconds. Turn the engine on and verify the ABS light is off.

When a transmission is working properly, gears shift smoothly to drive, reverse or park a vehicle. However, sometimes problems occur resulting in a transmission slipping.

Cause

One of the main causes of a slipping transmission is leaking fluid. Transmission fluid can leak from places such as the driveshaft seals, the torque converter or the pan gasket of the transmission. If the fluid gets really low, the transmission could fail to work altogether.

Check

A dipstick that indicates low transmission fluid levels could mean fluid is leaking. You need the engine idling with the vehicle in park as you make this check. If there is still no leak to be seen, it may be a leak in the transmission fluid cooler in your radiator.

Fix

If a leak is not the reason your transmission fluid levels are low, adding back the proper amount is a quick fix for a slipping transmission. The full mark on the dipstick is what should be used to avoid overfilling. Too much transmission fluid added can negatively affect the way a transmission functions.

AmPro tools are manufactured by Frenway Products. Frenway has been in business since 1984 and provides tools and services to 63 countries around the world. Using an AmPro torque wrench allows you to set your own torque specifications for your chosen project. Torque settings are very important when you are working with different engine bolts. If you use too much torque on certain bolts, you may break them and make it harder, if not impossible, to remove from the hole. Always check your bolt torque specifications before you set your torque wrench.

Instructions

1

Hold your AmPro wrench in one hand. With the other hand, grab the locking knob at the end of the torque wrench and turn it counterclockwise to unlock the torque setting.

2

Adjust the handle to your desired torque setting. Start by rotating the handle so the setting reads "0" on the minor graduation scale. The "0" is also in line with vertical scale on the shaft. Both of these scales are in inch pounds (in/lb).

3

Raise or lower the handle to adjust the vertical scale setting. The vertical scale has large numbers (120, 360, 600, etc.) listed in a vertical fashion on the handle.

4

Rotate the handle to your desired setting on the minor graduation scale. This adjustment allows you to add small amounts of torque to your vertical scale setting. "1" on the minor graduation indicates 1 foot/lb and is equal to 12 inch/lb. For example, if you raise the handle on the vertical scale to 360 inch/lb and then rotate the minor scale to "2", you will be adding 24 inches to your 360 setting to make it a setting of 384 inch/lb.

5

Rotate the locking knob clockwise to secure your setting into place.

The Focus is a front-wheel drive economy car introduced by Ford in 2000. It is a "world car" sold with the same basic body type across the globe, with only minor changes made to its handling and steering in some markets outside the United States. It was the first vehicle produced under Fords newly-developed global development strategy, which sought to streamline production and reduce costs. The Focus quickly became one of Fords best-selling cars worldwide.



The Focus retained its original body and design until 2008, when Ford revamped it and introduced the second generation of the vehicle. In 2002 the Focus was available as a 3-door hatchback, a 4-door sedan, a 5-door hatchback or a wagon.

General Alignment Information

The alignment specs for all trims of the 2002 Ford Focus wagon are the same. However, the alignment specs for the 2002 Ford Focus wagon trims do not apply to the other trims of the vehicle for that year. The caster, camber and toe-in are adjustable on the front wheels of 2002 Ford Focus wagons. The camber is not adjustable on their rear wheels.

The aligning of the caster of a vehicle can be a tricky task. It is always best to consult an owners manual or a certified mechanic before attempting to perform your own auto repairs. For more information on vehicle alignment, see the article "A Short Course on Wheel Alignment" linked in the Resources section below.

Front Wheel Specs

The limits for the caster angle of the front wheels of the 2002 Ford Focus are +1.87 to +3.89 degrees, with the ideal angle being +2.88 degrees.

The limits for the camber angle of the front wheels are -1.89 to +0.63, with the ideal angle being -0.63 degrees.

The toe-in can range, by degrees, from -0.12 to +0.12, with the ideal being zero.

Rear Wheel Specs

The limits for the caster angle of the rear wheels for the 2002 Ford Focus wagon are -2.22 to +0.34, with the ideal angle being -0.94 degrees.

The toe-in for the rear wheels can range, by degrees, from +0.3 to +0.7, with the ideal being +0.5

The catalytic converter on your Saturn SL2 bolts to a flange on the rear of the head pipe coming off the engine. A clogged converter can cause the engine to run very rough and will build up excessive amounts of heat under your car, which can radiate into the passenger compartment through the floorboards. While many people shy away from exhaust work, you can change the converter at home in the driveway and save yourself a potentially large repair bill.

Instructions

1

Position a jack under the front of your SL2 and raise the front end off the ground so you can work underneath it. Place a set of jack stands under the front suspension then lower the jack, allowing the car to settle onto the jack stands.

2

Slide under the car near the back of the front wheels. The catalytic converter attaches to the head pipe near the rear of the engine with four bolts and a mounting flange. Loosen the nuts on the four bolts with a socket and ratchet, but do not remove them yet.

3

Locate the exhaust clamp on the pipe at the rear of the catalytic converter where it joins the rear exhaust pipe. Remove the two nuts from the clamp, then remove the clamp from the pipe. Move to the front of the converter and remove the four mounting bolts that you loosened earlier, then lower the front of the converter away from the head pipe.

4

Pull the converter forward, sliding it out of the rear pipe. Lower it to the ground and remove it from under the car.

5

Position a new converter under the car and raise it until you can slide the rear fitting on the converter into the rear pipe. Slide it in far enough to allow you to raise the front flange to the flange on the head pipe.

6

Install a new brass gasket between the front flanges, then install the four mounting bolts and nuts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other. Install a new exhaust clamp on the rear pipe and tighten the nuts to secure it. Do not over-tighten it, or you will crush the exhaust pipe.

7

Move out from under the car and raise it off the jack stands with a jack. Remove the jack stands then set the car on its wheels. Remove the jack from under the car.

BMW automobiles have a sterling reputation for durability and overall customer satisfaction, according to Pelican Parts. In addition to engine and electrical components, alignment specifications are important to keep your BMW physically balanced and safe to handle. If your steering wheel seems misaligned or your car veers to the left or right it may be time for an alignment adjustment. Standard BMWs may included "nonadjustable" alignment components, so see an automotive professional with questions or concerns.

BMW Camber

Camber alignment specifications are included on the front and back end of a BMW. A zero camber design means tires sit perfectly upright on both the left and right side of the vehicle, making tire pressure evenly distributed. Negative camber indicates tires that tilt towards one another while positive camber ers to tires tilting outwards. BMWs may require various manipulations of camber, depending on the model. A BMW 3-Series, for example, best handles on standard street conditions and vehicle turns when the camber is slightly negative.

BMW Caster

Caster relates to steering alignment. Zero caster ers to a steering axis that, when angled vertically, provides for straight driving. Positive caster indicates strut angling toward the back end of the vehicle, while negative caster means strut angling toward the front. BMW caster --- as with camber --- varies depending upon the model, although most models require 3-9 degrees of angle variety. Front-end and back-end caster can be analyzed independently.

BMW Toe

Toe-in ers to tires where the front edges are angled closer together than back edges. Alternatively, toe-out means tires that angle into each other more on the back edge. Toe helps cars handle while making wide and sharp turns. Toe is adjusted by manipulating the tie rods. Minimal toe-out calibrations may be required for some BMW models, although tires with "neutral" toe are usually most reliable.

Introduced in 2004, the Suzuki Forenza was a compact car available in both sedan and wagon. The Forenza was produced for the U.S. market until 2008, when it was replaced by the Suzuki Kizashi. Although the Forenza was an affordable car available in automatic and manual transmission, it is known to experience several problems with its 2.0-liter engine.

Water Pump

MSN Auto indicates that a faulty water pump is an occasional problem with the 2005 Forenza. A bad water pump can result in your car overheating because it cools the engine by providing water from the radiator. Cost to replace the water pump is estimated at $434 for parts and labor (as of January 2011).

Engine Lamp

Lemon Law Claims reports that drivers report that the Forenzas check engine light randomly goes on. An illuminated light may indicate that your car is leaking oil or low oil pressure. Repair Pal estimates an engine oil light diagnosis at $75 to $95.

Timing Belt

Lemon Law Claims reports drivers having to occasionally replace the timing belt on a 2005 Forenza. A faulty timing belt can result in complete engine failure because the timing belt control the engines valves. Repair Pal estimates a timing belt replacement cost at $172 to $228 for parts and labor.

Mercedes-Benz vehicles are well known for their prestige and luxury, but despite their high reputation, they still encounter problems from time-to-time. One of the more common problems that can occur with a 2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK 320 is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. The most noticeable symptom of a faulty crankshaft position sensor on a 2001 SLK 320 is an engine that cranks but wont start. This is because the powertrain control module, or PCM, cannot determine when to fire the spark plugs inside the engine cylinders. Because the crankshaft position sensor is a non-serviceable part, it must be replaced when faulty.

Instructions

Removal

1

Engage the parking brake and open the hood. Remove the plastic engine paneling by lifting up on it until it pops loose.

2

Pull the intake tube out of the air cleaner box, and then remove the intake tube from the throttle body outlet by gently pulling on it. Pull the air cleaner housing off of the cylinder head cover and then remove the entire air cleaner assembly from the engine bay.

3

Locate the crankshaft position sensor on the back side of the engine block, next to the transmission bell housing, between the firewall and the left cylinder head. The sensor is black and has a single black wire connector attached to it.

4

Disconnect the sensors electrical connector and remove the bolt holding the sensor to the engine block. Pull the sensor out of the engine block. If it stubborn, caully remove it using a slip-joint pliers, moving slowly to ensure that the sensor doesnt break off inside the block.

Installation

5

Grease the sensor with a small amount of clean engine oil and insert it into the block until its fully-seated. Reinstall the sensors retaining bolt and tighten it to 71-inch pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Reconnect the crank sensors electrical connector.

7

Set the air cleaner assembly into position and press it down on top of the cylinder head cover until it snaps into place. Reconnect the air cleaner tube to the air box and the throttle body air housing.

8

Place the plastic engine paneling in position on top of the engine and press down on it until it locks in place. Plug the Mercedes-Benz Star Diagnosis scan tool into the vehicles communication port and run the CKP re-sync procedure.

A head gasket leak is the failure of the head gasket, a seal between the engine block, which houses the engines cylinders and pistons, and the cylinder head, which contains the valves that admit air and fuel into the cylinders.

Causes

Engine overheating is one of the most common causes of a head gasket leak; overheating makes the metal of the engine block expand and put so much pressure on the gasket that it no longer seals properly once the metal cools and contracts. Another common cause of a head gasket leak is engine misfiring. If combustion occurs too early or late, it can stress the head gasket.

Effects

If the head gasket starts to leak, the engine may blow blue smoke when oil reaches the combustion chamber or steam may come from the exhaust pipe if the chamber is contaminated with coolant. Fluid contamination, as well as increased risk of further engine overheating, can cause serious engine damage.

Repair

Replacing a head gasket is labor intensive because it is under the cylinder head, which is attached to many engine components, which may include the air intake, exhaust manifold and transmission housing.

The Airtex E2042 is an electronic fuel pump designed to meet or exceed original manufacturer equipment standards. The pump is compatible with many automobile models. Airtex fuel pumps are specially designed to block fuel contaminants and perform quietly. Special features help extend pump life. The suggested retail price for the Airtex E2042 fuel pump is about $65.

Outer Body

The Airtex E2042 electric fuel pump is constructed from high-grade aluminum. The material inhibits corrosion and reduces total pump weight. The inlet is attached to a strainer. The outlet measures 5/16 inch and attaches to an outlet hose.

Inner Mechanics

The Airtex E2042 electric fuel pump has a maximum free flow rate of 35 gallons per hour; the minimum flow rate is 30 gallons per hour. The maximum pressure range is 90 pounds per square inch; the minimum pressure range is 80 psi. An inlet screen shields the pumping section from contaminants. Brush and terminal assembly prolong pump life and promote reliable performance. Consistent pressure is maintained with a ball check valve. The E2042 has a radio interference filter that prevents vehicle radios from broadcasting fuel pump noises.

Compatibility

The Airtex E2042 electric fuel pump is compatible with a number of vehicles. Ford vehicle models such as the Escort, Crown Victoria and Taurus are compatible with the pump. The Lincoln Continental and Mercury Sable also use the E2042, as do the 1989 Saab 900s.

Traveling in an recreational vehicle (RV) is a fun and enjoyable way to see the country. RVs are stocked with everything you need to live on the road; as such, they have toilets and showers, beds and furniture, rigerators, stoves and, yes, even the proverbial kitchen sink. All these household items make an RV weigh a lot, which in turn places greater wear on an RVs suspension components. The suspension part that gets the most abuse is the coil spring, as it is constantly being torqued while the RV is in motion and under constant stress from the weight of the RV itself.

Instructions

1

Raise your RV with an RV jack. Do not use a normal car jack, as the greater weight of a RV can break a car jack. Lift the RV up until the wheel whose suspension you want to work on is no longer in contact with the ground and rotates freely. Once the wheel is in the air, if the RV suspension spring has broken in half or more, you can remove the pieces by hand, as the springs are normally held in place via the pressure of the RV on the spring itself. Use work gloves to remove the spring, as the spring may have ragged metal edges if it has broken.

2

Remove the RV wheel with a nut removal tool; your RV should have come with one. If you need additional torque, use a power tool with a nut-removal bit. Be caul when removing the wheel, as RV wheels can weigh substantially more than car wheels depending upon your RVs make and model.

3

Remove the brake pad assembly with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Some RVs may use a drum assembly; you still use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove it. Caully support the brake assembly when removing it, as its weight can rip off the brake lines. Just set the brake assembly on a stool, elevated, so that you do not have to go through the hassle of flushing the brake system and reattaching lines.

4

Remove the spring by pulling down on the control arm to its full extension and wedging a flat-head screwdriver between the suspension arm and the spring. Wiggle the coil off with back-and-forth rocking motions. Wear safety goggles in case the spring jumps off the control arm.

5

Replace the spring with a new spring by again pulling the control arm down to its fullest extension, with a flat-head screwdriver as a wedge. The spring will naturally push into place around the attachment point. Reattach the brake assembly, then wrench the wheel back on.

The NP205 was a heavy-duty, gear-driven, extremely durable cast-iron transfer case used in Chevy, Ford, International and Dodge full-size trucks. The Chevy versions were erred to as NP205C. They were installed in Blazers, K10s, K20s and K30s from 1966 through 1984.

Bolt Pattern

The Chevy versions of the NP205 transfer case used eight bolts for added strength. The bolts form a racetrack pattern.

Input Specifications

The NP205 was manufactured with four different input splines. From 1966 to 1984, a 10-spline model was available and was most commonly used with the SM465 transmission. From 1971 to 1979, a 27-spline model was available and used with the T350 transmission. The NP205 also came in both a short and long 32-spline format, which was usually attached to a T400 transmission.

Output Specifications

The NP205C was configured with two front output splines. A 10-spline model was manufactured from 1971 until around 1977. A 30-spline model was produced from 1977 until 1984 (in Chevrolets). The 10-spline model came with a 1310-series yoke and the 30-spline model used a flat flange. The transfer case featured a 32-spline, rear output shaft and came equipped with a fixed yoke.

A VW IRS, or Volkswagen independent rear suspension, transmission is a special type of transmission that can be found in several models of Volkswagen automobiles, particularly the Volkswagen Beetle.

History

The IRS, or independent rear suspension, transmission system was first introduced to the automobile industry in 1968, coming included with the semi-automatic Volkswagen Beetle. In 1969, all Beetles in the United States were fitted with the IRS, and in 1971, other countries followed suit. In the years since then, the IRS has been become an automobile industry standard.

Function

An IRS is a type of automobile suspension system that allows two rear wheels that are on the same axle to shift position vertically without affecting each others position. The wheels spin in unison with each other, but raising one wheel doesnt lower the other as it would if the wheels were linked.

Benefits

One of the most important benefits of this type of transmission is that it provides a much safer, smoother ride and better handling. Because the IRS is set up so that the vertical movement of one wheel does not affect the vertical movement of the other, bumps in the road do not cause both wheels to shift.

The front wheel hub keeps the rim and tire attached to a car with lug nuts. The problem with the front wheel hub is that the rim can become oxidized in place. This can make for an annoying tire change if you run into problems. Getting your wheel off the wheel hub is not very hard to do. You dont have to take your car into a service shop to perform this task. You can do it yourself with little hassle.

Instructions

1

Jack the car up from the front end so the wheel hub is lifted off the ground. Remove the lug nuts from the rim with a tire iron. Keep the lug nuts together so they arent lost.

2

Spray a penetrating lubricant like WD-40 onto the entire wheel hub. Make sure that the lubricant seeps into the cracks under and around the connection from the wheel to the wheel hub.

3

Use a pry bar to remove the wheel from the car. Insert the pry bar into the crack where the wheel meets the hub. Put pressure on the pry bar until you feel the wheel coming loose from the hub.

4

Use the pry bar all around the wheel until it comes free from the wheel hub.

Compressed air hoses are powerful tools for workers in a variety of industries. While their power can speed up the pace of work, they can be extremely dangerous if used past their prime. A few key signs indicate when it is time to replace a compressed air hose.

Kinking

If a compressed air hose is permanently kinked, it is time to replace the hose. A backup of compressed air at the kinked area could lead to an explosion, which could be deadly.

Fraying or Cracking

The fraying of the protective fabric surrounding a compressed air hose -- or the cracking of the rubber if no fabric is present -- is a sign that the compressed air hose needs to be replaced. The rapid escape of compressed air from a hole in the hose can cause serious injury to workers and bystanders.

Bending

If a compressed air hose is bent, it needs to be replaced as soon as possible. Bending of a compressed air hose can drastically alter the air flow and potentially create an accident leading to serious injury.

Pressure Ratings

Each compressed air hose is rated to withstand a maximum pounds per square inch in air pressure. If a compressed air hose is not rated to withstand the compressor it is fitted to, it is time to replace the hose.

Maintenance

Compressed air hoses should be cleaned regularly using soapy water, not kerosene or other flammable material. After cleaning, make sure the compressed air hose is completely purged. While doing maintenance work on the compressed air hose, make sure the compressor or other equipment is attached to is turned off.

You can pull the codes from your 1995 Chevy right in your garage, saving you time and money. When your Chevy is having problems, you might see a warning light such as "Check Engine" illuminate on its instrument cluster. This light ers to a problem with one of the vehicles sensors. Before repair the vehicle, you must troubleshoot the problem with an OBD I scan tool you can purchase from your local auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle and turn off the ignition. Find the open OBD port under the steering column. Plug the OBD I scan tool into the open port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ACC" position and do not start the engine.

3

Turn on the OBD I scan tool and wait for it to read the codes.

4

Wait for the display on the OBD I scan tool to read "OK," then turn off the ignition and the scan tool.

5

Select the "Menu" command and scroll through it until you see "Stored Codes." Select this option and write down the alphanumeric codes on a piece of paper.

6

Look up the codes in the scan tools manual. Unplug the scan tool and have your Chevy serviced or repaired according to the diagnostic codes.

Neon was first introduced in North America in the early 90s. It is a front-wheel drive compact car that was manufactured by Chrysler Corporations Plymouth and Dodge Brands. It was powered by an inline 4 cylinder 2.0L engine that had an output of 132 horsepower and 130 foot-pounds of torque. It is a small and reliable engine, but it still need periodic service if parts like the timing belt fail.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable of your battery before performing any maintenance work on your engine, to prevent electrical shock or accidental starting. Remove the nut from the negative post with a box-end wrench. Lift the cable from your battery, move it outside of the battery box and close the lid of the battery box.

2

Align the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing and then set the crankshaft sprocket to the top dead center (TDC) position. Using a suitable wrench, move crankshaft to 1/2 notch before top dead center.

3

Place the camshaft timing marks by aligning the notches on sprockets. Install timing belt, starting at crankshaft, around water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft pulleys and tensioner pulley. Move the crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up belt slack.

4

Install belt tensioner to engine block but do not tighten fasteners. Using a suitable torque wrench on the tensioner pulley, torque the pulley to 28 foot-pounds. With torque being applied to the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner up against the tensioner pulley bracket and torque fasteners to 23 foot-pounds.

5

Pull the tensioner plunger pin. Pretension is proper when pin can be easily removed or installed. Rotate crankshaft two revolutions and inspect the alignment of the timing marks. If the alignment is improper, repeat the operation.

The LT1 is a small block, high output engine produced by General Motors. The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system consists of a breather tube and a valve connected to the engine.

Location

On an LT1, the PCV valve is located on the intake manifold, on the drivers side. The breather tube runs to the front of the engine.

Identification

The PCV valve connects to the engine with a rubber stopper. It is below and to the right of the vacuum and the brake booster.

Models

The LT1 engine was used in the Chevrolet Corvette, Camaro, Caprice and Impala. It was also used in the Buick Roadmaster and Pontiac Firebird.

A diesel engine is an option for many Dodge vehicles, especially heavy trucks. An eight-cylinder 5.9-liter diesel engine is available for the 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 3/4 ton pickup. This engine uses fuel injection and requires an injection pump to keep the fuel under pressure. The procedure for replacing the diesel injection pump is the same for all full-size Dodge trucks made from 2001 to 2005.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Remove the throttle linkage and its bracket. Disconnect the fuel drain manifold, and detach the fuel lines from the injection pump. Remove the fuel air control tube and the connector for the fuel shut-off valve from the injection pump. Disconnect the support bracket and oil fill tube from the injector pump.

2

Put a shop rag over the opening in the injector pumps gear cover. Remove the gear retaining nut and washer for the injector pump with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench until the top dead center pin on the crankshaft drops into the gear timing hole. Pull the pin from the gear timing hole.

3

Remove the lock screw and its washer from the injection pump with a socket wrench. Tighten the lock screw to 22 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench, then push the drive gear for the injection pump from the drive shaft. Disconnect the mounting nuts for the injection pump with a socket wrench. Remove the injection pump from the crankcase.

4

Install the new injection pump and tighten the mounting nuts by hand, ensuring that the pump can move freely within its slots. Connect the drive gear to the drive shaft with its retaining nut and washer. Tighten the nut to between 11 and 15 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Rotate the injection pump counterclockwise to take up gear lash. Tighten its mounting nuts to 18 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the support bracket for the injection pump. Tighten the nut for the pump drive gear to 48 ft. lbs.

6

Connect the oil filler tube and connector valve for the fuel shut-off valve to the injector pump. Attach the fuel lines to the injector pump. Install the fuel drain manifold and throttle linkage with a socket wrench. Connect the cables for the negative battery terminals.

7

Loosen the bleed bolt on the fuel rail with a socket wrench. Push the primer button on the fuel transfer pump until the fuel coming from the bleed screw no longer has air bubbles. Tighten the bleed screw to 72 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The Hyundai Elantra is a series of compact cars that Hyundai has manufactured since 1990. The 2000 model represents the last year of the second generation Hyundai, which had a 4-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine as its standard engine. This engine uses a timing belt to synchronize the movement of the camshaft and crankshaft as opposed to a timing chain. The timing belt in a 2000 Hyundai requires replacement approximately every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect any components necessary to access the cover of the timing belt. Remove the timing belt cover with a socket wrench.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the No. 1 piston at the top dead center position as indicated by the timing marks on the crankshaft. Disconnect the tensioner for the timing belt and the idler pulley with a socket wrench. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket.

3

Turn the camshaft sprocket clockwise to align its timing marks and ensure the timing marks for the crankshaft timing are still aligned. Connect the tensioner for the timing belt with a socket wrench, but do not tighten the pulley bolt for the tensioner. Install the idler pulley and tighten its mounting bolt to between 32 and 41 foot-pounds.

4

Place the timing belt over the sprocket of the camshaft, then over the sprocket of the crankshaft. Turn the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise to place tension on the timing belt. Apply 5 pounds of force to the middle of the longest span of the timing belt. The deflection of the timing belt will be between 0.16 inches and 0.24 inches when the timing belt is at the correct tension.

5

Tighten the pulley bolt for the timing belt tensioner to between 32 and 41 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise by one turn to align the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket. Adjust the timing belt tension as required.

6

Replace the cover for the timing belt. Install any additional components that you removed in step one to access the timing belt.

The Toyota Tacoma was first introduced by Toyota in 1995 as a compact pickup. The dashboard can crack and fade with age and sun damage and may need to be replaced. You can replace the dash yourself on your 01 Tacoma in your home garage using a few simple tools purchased from any hardware store. To save yourself some money, check with your local auto wrecking yard to see if they have any used 01 Toyota Tacoma dashboards in good condition.

Instructions

1

Open the ashtray and push down on the metal retainer as you slide it out to remove it from the dash.

2

Wedge a flat-head screwdriver under the bezel to pry it off. The bezel is the plastic piece that surrounds the instrument panel, the radio and the air conditioning controls.

3

Open the drivers and front passengers doors. Locate the screws on the sides of the dash and remove them with a Phillips head screwdriver.

4

Remove the bolts on the kick panels under the dash on the drivers side and passengers side.

5

Pry up the dash trim by wedging a flat-head screwdriver under it and working your way around it until the dash is pried up.

6

Pull the dash forward and unplug the electrical connections attached to it. Slide the dash out of the Tacoma through the drivers door or front passengers door.

The BMW 5 series is a mid-size car manufactured by BMW, and the 1989 BMW 535i belongs to the third generation in this series. It is a 4-door sedan with a 6-cylinder 3.4-liter engine that uses fuel injection. This requires an electric fuel pump to maintain the fuel system under high pressure. The fuel pump in a 1989 BMW 535I is on top of the fuel pump tank and is accessible from the rear trunk.

Instructions

1

Drain the fuel tank if it contains a high level of fuel. Place one and of a hose into the field tank and the other end into a container approved for gasoline. Siphon the fuel from the field tank into the container.

2

Remove the panels in the trunk. Loosen the mounting screws for the access cover in the right front corner of the trunk with a socket wrench and remove the access cover. Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connector for the fuel pump.

3

Attach tool 16 1 020 to a socket wrench and use this assembly to turn the mounting ring on the fuel pump assembly counterclockwise. Remove the mounting ring from the fuel pump assembly. Detach the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank. Depress the mounting hooks to remove the fuel pump from the rest of the fuel pump assembly.

4

Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel pump. Remove the mounting screws for the fuel check valve and pressure damper with a socket wrench. Pull the fuel pump from its holder. Remove the mounting screw from the fuel filter, and detach the fuel filter from the fuel pump. Discard the O-ring for the fuel pump.

5

Place a new O-ring on the new fuel pump and install the fuel pump by reversing steps two through four. Tighten the mounting ring on the fuel pump assembly to between 27 and 31 foot-pounds with tool 16 1 020. Check for leaks in the fuel system and ill the fuel tank.

The 1989 model year brought a complete redesign of Nissans flagship sedan, the Maxima. Experts considered this version of the Maxima the most beautiful to date, and it was also significantly larger than previous models. The 1989 Maxima uses just one oxygen sensor to monitor the level of oxygen in the exhaust and send this information to the electronic control unit. The ECU then uses this information to adjust the air-to-fuel ratio in the combustion chamber to keep the Maxima at peak performance.

Instructions

Removal

1

Raise the front of the Maxima with a floor jack and slide jack stands under the vehicles subframe. Lower the Maxima onto the jack stands.

2

Crawl under the middle of the vehicle and find the front pipe, the exhaust pipe just before the catalytic converter. Find the oxygen sensor screwed into the front pipe, just before the catalytic converter.

3

Spray the base of the oxygen sensor with penetrating oil and allow it to sit for the time specified in the penetrating oil instructions.

4

Trace the oxygen sensors wiring upward until you find where the sensors wiring harness plugs into the Maximas wiring harness. Unplug the oxygen sensors wiring harness.

5

Remove the oxygen sensor from the front pipe, using a ratchet and oxygen sensor socket.

Installation

6

Apply a coating of anti-seize compound to the new oxygen sensors threads and hand-tighten the sensor into the front pipe.

7

Tighten the sensor to 15 foot-pounds using a torque wrench and oxygen sensor socket.

8

Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the inside of the oxygen sensors wiring harness and plug the sensors harness into the Maximas wiring harness.

9

Raise the vehicle off the jack stands and remove the stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

If your sunroof is leaking, there are steps you can take to attempt to repair the problem on your own. However, if these steps dont resolve the problem or if there is a different problem with your sunroof you should seek the assistance of a professional repair person. A stuck sunroof requires removing part of the headliner and a cracked sunroof requires removing the glass and replacing the seal. These are all jobs best left to a professional so that you dont cause additional leaks.

Instructions

1

Clean the closed sunroof with mild detergent and wipe clean with the cloth.

2

Open the sunroof fully. Locate the drain tubes in each of the four corners. Blow out each tube with the compressed air canister.

3

Pour a small amount of water down each drain tube. If any of the water backs up, you have a clog. Untwist the wire hanger and straighten it out so you have a long pipe or just use the wired pipe cleaner. Gently insert the wire into the drain tube opening and attempt to remove the clog. Do not force the wire and do not scrape the tubing.

4

Clean the trough in the sunroof tracks with the compressed air canister or the detergent and cloth.

5

Inspect the seal surrounding the sunroof tracks. If there are any cracks or if there is significant wear, take the car to a sunroof repair shop.

The transaxle is an automobile component that makes up the transmission and the differential gear. It is found in most front-wheel-drive cars and trucks. The components require lubrication in order to work properly.

Transaxle Oil

The type of transaxle oil used in your car depends on its make, model and manufacturers specifications. The American Petroleum Institute has specific fluid and oil service designations for your car. Manual transmissions use transaxle oil with a viscosity of about SAE 80W or 90 grade. The gear oil viscosity is unrelated to motor oil viscosity.

Protecting Your Automobile

It is important that you check and change the transaxle oil on a regular basis. Failure to do so can result in a costly transmission repair or replacement. It is also important that you use the transaxle oil specifically designed for your automobile. Consult your owners manual or consult a certified automobile mechanic for more information.

Troubleshooting

Transaxle oil that is dark-brown or black should be changed immediately. Also, oil that contains any debris or smells as if it is burning or burnt requires changing to protect the components of the transaxle. The continued use of degraded oil or operating your car with little to no transaxle oil may cause difficulty with gear-shifting or may cause complete transmission failure.

Stick or ARC welding stainless steel requires the use of a welding rod that is compatible with the chemical makeup of the stainless steel you are welding. You can use a higher purity stainless steel welding rod for lower grade stainless steel, but not vice versa. For example, a 316L rod can weld 304-grade stainless steel, but you cannot produce a weld with structural integrity using a 309L rod to weld 316-grade stainless steel; this is due to crystalline structures that form in the weld joint.

Instructions

1

Place the two pieces of stainless steel flat on the welding table, with the sides that need to be welded resting 1/16 inch apart. Secure the pieces of stainless steel by clamping them to the welding table with self-locking clamps.

2

Turn on the ARC welder and adjust the amperage for the size thickness and type of stainless steel welding electrode you are going to use to weld the stainless steel.

3

Put on your safety glasses, welding helmet and heavy leather welding gloves. Clamp a stainless steel welding electrode in the stinger of the ARC welder and connect the ARC welders ground clamp to the welding table.

4

Align the welding electrode with the joint between the two pieces of stainless steel and lower your welding helmet.

5

Strike and lift the welding electrode on the stainless steel joint to start the ARC between the stainless steel pieces and the welding electrode.

6

Work the electrode over and down 1/8 inch, then back over the weld joint to weld the two pieces of stainless steel together.

7

Remove your welding helmet and tap the weld with the chipping hammer to remove the slag from the stainless steel weld.

8

Allow the weld joint to cool thoroughly before you handle the welded stainless steel--the weld joint will be hot and can cause severe burns.

The 2003 Ford Expedition features both a left and right side view mirror. These mirrors are important for backing up the large SUV and for keeping a caul eye on traffic behind the vehicle. Because of its larger size, the Expedition is a hard vehicle to back up while looking out the back window, and it takes a certain amount of skill to be able to do so.

Instructions

1

Open the door on the Expedition with the mirror that needs to be replaced.

2

Lower the window all the way down then turn the ignition off and remove the key.

3

Remove the outer screw located on the rear side of the door panel with a flat head screwdriver.

4

Remove the two retaining bolts located at the bottom of the door panel with a 7 mm socket wrench.

5

Pry off the door handle cover with a pry tool.

6

Remove the window control module cover with the pry tool and disconnect the wire harness connections under the cover.

7

Pry off the panel under the door pull bar with the pry tool then remove the two screws under the panel. Use the T-27 Torx head screwdriver to remove the screws.

8

Pry around the bottom and side of the door panel with the pry tool. When the retaining snaps are all unseated, reach behind the door panel and disconnect any remaining wire harness connections. Remove the door panel.

9

Disconnect the side view mirror wire harness.

10

Remove the three retaining bolts located on the door frame opposite the side view mirror with an 11 mm socket wrench. Be caul not to allow the mirror to fall and scratch the door when removing the last retaining bolt.

11

Feed the wire harness out through the access hole of the door frame and remove the old mirror.

12

Install the new mirror by reversing Steps 9 through 11.

13

Reinstall the door panel by reversing Steps 3 through 8.

If the Check Engine light is on in your 1998 Toyota Sienna, the oxygen sensor may be the cause. The oxygen sensor reads the oxygen levels in the exhaust and reports those levels to your trucks computer. If the sensor is failing, you may notice a decrease in your fuel efficiency. If you suspect that your O2 sensor is bad, many auto parts stores will scan the computer to determine the cause of your Check Engine light.

Instructions

1

Raise the truck using a jack and place it on a set of jack stands. Make sure it is raised enough to comfortably work under it.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor on the exhaust pipe just beyond the catalytic converter, toward the back of the truck. The sensor protrudes from the pipe on the passenger side of the vehicle.

3

Disconnect the electrical connection on the sensor. The connector should pull straight out of the sensor.

4

Remove the nuts on either side of the sensor using a socket and ratchet. Set the nuts aside in a safe place.

5

Remove the sensor from the pipe by pulling it straight out. Remove the gasket if it does not come out with the sensor.

6

Insert a new gasket and then insert the sensor into the mounting space on the exhaust pipe. Secure the sensor with the two nuts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet.

7

Connect the electrical connection to the sensor. The connector will plug straight into the sensor.

8

Raise the truck with a jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Replacing the floor boards in your trailer is a necessary periodic maintenance task that will help keep your trailer in top condition. While plywood and standard lumber can be used to replace trailer floors, using treated lumber is the best way to create a lasting repair. Treated lumber survives the elements and lasts much longer than traditional lumber, but it may warp. Take steps to cure it before installation.

Instructions

1

Place 2-by-4 runners, spaced 24 inches apart and covering the length of the treated lumber, on your garage floor or driveway. Stack the treated lumber, wide face down, on top of and perpendicular to the runners. Lay a piece of plywood on top of the lumber, and add cinder blocks or bricks to weigh it down. Cover the stack with a tarp, if it will be stored outside. Allow four weeks for the lumber to dry, then uncover and unstack.

2

Draw a sketch of your trailers floor, including width and length of each piece. Measure and mark the position of bolt holes in the original boards. Unbolt the floor boards with an impact gun by loosening and removing the nuts from the underside of the bolts, underneath the trailer. Tap each bolt upward to with a hammer for easy removal.

3

Pull out the bolts from above with the claw end of the hammer. Save at least one for comparison. Purchase bolts of the same size and thickness to replace the original hardware for best results.

4

Measure and cut one board for each piece in the original floor, using a circular saw. Make it the same length and width as the original, and bore bolt holes using the original board as a template. Use a drill bit the same thickness as the bolts.

5

Install the new floor boards, starting at the left front corner of the trailer and working across first and then back. Drop a bolt through each hole in each floor board and down through the bolt holes in the trailer floor. Tap each head with a hammer to set the carriage head into the lumber to prevent it spinning.

6

Thread a washer and bolt from below onto each bolt as you go and tighten by hand. Install all of the boards in this fashion. Once all boards are installed, tighten the nuts with an impact gun. Double-check each nut to make sure it remained tight, and snug down any nuts that require it.

Many auto repairs and services are more easily performed when mechanics have open access to the underneath portion of a vehicle. Hydraulic car hoists give a mechanic this access by allowing him to raise and lower vehicles.

Types

Types of hydraulic car hoists include two-post surface-mounted hoists; these hoists lift vehicles using two arms that rise in synchronization. Another type is the low or mid-rise frame-engaging car hoist. This kind of hoist uses hydraulic power to lift vehicles short heights; it is mainly used for tire and wheel repairs.

Features

Single button operation and fully automatic electronic locking systems are offered on many hydraulic car hoists. These features give a mechanic the ability to adjust the car hoists height, which increases the range of vehicles he can service.

Safety Tips

Vehicles loaded onto hydraulic car hoists must have all their doors tightly shut. The vehicle is first raised a short distance; this ensures that the car is balanced, sturdy and secure. The hoist is then raised to its intended height.

First introduced in 1976, the Accord is a mid-sized family vehicle manufactured by Honda and sold internationally. All Accord sedans require periodic adjustment, often erred to as "alignment." The factory specifications for the alignment are the same for all 2001 Accord models. These specifications stem from a vehicle at curb height with one-half tank of fuel.

Camber

Measured in degrees, camber represents the outward or inward tilt of the wheel in relation to the center of the vehicle. The Accord camber angle should be the same on both left and right wheels. Camber angles must be +0.0 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.1 degree on the front wheels and -0.30 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.1 degree on the rear wheels.

Caster

Caster represents both the rearward and the forward tilt of the steering knuckle from the true vertical. Caster is the measurement in angles that is responsible for directional stability. The Accord caster angle should be the same on both rear and front wheels. The angle must be +2.48 degrees with the maximum allowable difference of 0.1 degree.

Toe

Toe represents the difference between the leading and trailing inside edges of the front wheels. The factory specification for the 2001 Accord is 0 mm with maximum allowable difference of 2 mm (0, 1/16 inches).

The removal of a 1993 S10 starter requires you to be under the Chevy truck so you can easily reach the components needed to remove it from the vehicle. Although the starter is located on the bell housing of the S10, the process for actually removing it is not overly difficult because you can reach it without removing unnecessary components.

Instructions

1

Place the front of the vehicle on jack stands and secure it by placing a wheel chuck behind the rear tire.

2

Open the engine hood and disconnect the negative battery cable. Leave the engine hood open to allow additional light to get under the S10.

3

Locate the starter next to the bell housing on the bottom drivers side of the engine. Use the replacement starter as a visual aid.

4

Remove the starter wire that bolts onto the back of the starter by removing the nut that secures the wire to the starter with a socket and ratchet.

5

Remove the three bolts that secure the starter to the bell housing with a socket and ratchet and then pull the starter gear free from the bell housing.

6

Disconnect the wiring connector that connects the starter solenoid to the electrical system. Push in on the center tap on the connector and pull on it to release it from the solenoid.

7

Connect the wiring connector to the solenoid on the replacement starter.

8

Place the gear of the starter into the bell housing and bolt the starter into place.

9

Reconnect the large starter wire and tighten it with the nut.

10

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

The Ford Fiesta is a 2-door subcompact vehicle that first emerged in the European auto market in 1976. First-generation models were sold in the United States from 1978 to 1980 and later replaced by the Escort. Later generation models feature a digital display on the dashboard, designed to provide the driver with pertinent vehicle information. Putting the driver information display in "Self Diagnostics Mode" will allow you to browse through in-depth information about your vehicles operating conditions.

Instructions

1

Insert the ignition key. Do not start the engine or switch the ignition to the "ON" position.

2

Hold the "Reset" button located on the gauge cluster, while starting your vehicles engine.

3

Continue holding the "Reset" button until the dashboard display reads "Test."

4

Press the "Reset" button repeatedly to navigate through the diagnostic information presented on the display screen.

There are many reasons that a cars air conditioner can malfunction. The blower is a major part that commonly fails on a cars air conditioning unit. While its not always easy to tell if this is the problem, there are several tests a person can run to test the blower and see if that is the problem.

Instructions

1

Turn on the cars air conditioner to full blast while the engine is running. Feel for any type of a breeze. If no breeze hits your hand, theres a good chance that the cars A/C blower is to blame. No wind at all means the A/C blower is not working at all.

2

Hold your hand over the air conditioner vent while the air is on at full blast. After feeling the air, turn the vent down to half speed. If there is no change in fan speed, then this can mean that the A/C blower is the main problem.

3

Turn off the engine and open the hood to look at the engine. Have the picture of your cars specific air conditioning system on hand.

4

Check the connector to make sure its not loose. If the connector is loose, plug it in firmly and restart the car. Check the air conditioning vents to see if the same problems still exist.

5

Check the plastic tube from the blower motor next. Look for tears, wear or even if the tube is disconnected. This is normally located on the lower left hand side of the motor, and must be in perfect working condition. Any damage to this part of the blower engine will prevent the cars A/C from fully working.

You can fix the Service Engine Soon light on your 1999 Taurus yourself at home using an OBD scan tool. OBD stands for On-Board Diagnostics system. This is the computer that stores the trouble codes sent to it by sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. Its job is to indicate what is going on in your vehicle and when it needs routine servicing. When you see the Service Engine Soon light flash on your instrument panel, you should have your Taurus serviced before you attempt to reset the system and turn off the light.

Instructions

1

Find the open port that is next to the fuse panel on the drivers side of the dashboard.

2

Plug the OBD scan tool into the open port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn the car on. Do not start the engine.

4

Look for the "erase" button on the scan tool and press it. Look on the instrument panel for the Service Engine Soon light to go out. Once it does, remove the scan tool from the port and turn off the car.

Smog or emissions checks are tests used to measure the amount of pollutants emitted by vehicles in an effort to improve air quality. Depending on the state, these tests may be mandatory on an annual or bi-annual basis. In other states no emissions testing is necessary. Drivers who are aware of how to prepare their vehicles can improve their chances of passing.

Heed Warning Signs

Pay attention to how the car is driving. If it seems as if it isnt running smoothly or if it is consuming large amounts of gas, take it to a mechanic to see if there are any repairs needed. Pay attention to any illuminated indicators on the dashboard, such as the "Check Engine" light for example. If these warning indicators are lit up, take the car to the dealer or mechanic to have the underlying situation resolved as in some states such as California, a "Check Engine" light will immediately result in a failed smog check.

Change Oil

If it is due for an oil change or past due, have it taken care of before having the test. Fumes from old and dirty oil can result in a failed smog check. Have fuel and air filters replaced when the oil is changed as this may also increase emissions.

Warm it Up

On the day of the smog check, fill the car up with the grade of gas that is recommended in the vehicles manual. Take the car for a ride that lasts at least 20 minutes to bring it to normal running temperatures. This ensures that the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter are hot enough to be properly functioning when tested.

Fuel Additives

Use fuel additives when gassing up the car. These can help clean the engines intake and exhaust paths of carbon deposits. This helps air to flow freely and assists in lowering your cars emission levels, according to SmogTips.com.

Check Tires and Lighten Load

Certain types of smog checks are done on a dynamometer. If this is used during your test your tires must be properly inflated and match the size that is specified in the original car specs. Tires that are overinflated or underinflated or sized overly large or small may have a negative affect on passing the test as the machine is calibrated to original size. Remove any excess items that may increase the weight of the car and also make it more difficult to pass.

Honda manufactures many different types of engines for its cars and vehicles, lawn mowers and power tools. Whichever type of Honda engine you have, its important to use the proper oil to get the best performance and the longest life from your engine.

Water Vehicles

For outboard motors and other water vehicle engines, Honda has a certified 10W-30 motor oil that is available through Honda Marine dealers. The oil is specifically designed to provide lubrication for four-cylinder, water-cooled engines. Honda recommends this oil for its marine motors because it helps fight corrosion, reduce rust and improves performance at high temperatures.

Automotive Engines

For Honda cars, Honda dealers carry a specific oil recommended by Honda. The oil comes in a semi-synthetic version and a mineral-based version. The semi-synthetic oil is a 15W-40 oil and is good for any Honda car engine. The mineral-based version is a 10W-30 oil and is also a good option for Honda cars. If your Honda-recommended oil isnt available, talk to your dealer about the best choice for your Honda.

Small Power Engines

Whether you have a lawn mower with a Honda mower or another small power tool that uses a Honda engine, its important to review your owners manual when selecting the oil for your engine. Small Honda engines are designed to use petroleum-based oil, so avoid synthetic oils. Otherwise, make sure that the oil you choose meets all of the recommendations listed in your manual.

Clear coat is a plastic painting material used to coat surfaces to protect them and add luster to their finish. Clear coat can be applied to many materials, including fiberglass. Removing clear coat from fiberglass requires a few special materials and the right technique.

Instructions

1

Put on a respirator. Inhaling clear coat remover can irritate the linings of the nose and throat.

2

Apply clear coat remover to the surface of the fiberglass with a paint brush. Clear coat remover requires time to chemically react with and dissolve the clear coat. Refer to manufacturer instructions for reaction time. During the reaction, the clear coat will bubble and pull away from the fiberglass.

3

Spray the clear coat remover from the surface of the fiberglass with a spray hose.

4

Wipe away any excess dissolved clear coat with a clean towel.

5

Reapply the clear coat remover, allow it to react with any remaining clear coat, and spray away the residue.

6

Wipe away any excess dissolved clear coat with a clean towel.

Toyotas Camry has been the best-selling vehicle in its class for eight years straight and ranks high on U.S. News review lists. When you find the light output from your Camry decreasing it is likely time for you to replace your headlight bulbs. Replacing your bulbs is easy and will increase your nighttime visibility.

Instructions

1

Turn your Camry off and switch the light selector to the "Off" position. Allow the vehicle to cool for several minutes if it has been running. Headlight bulbs operate at high temperatures and can easily burn you.

2

Open the hood by releasing the interior and exterior safety latches. Lock the hood in the open position.

3

Grasp the headlight bulb assembly and turn it counterclockwise to remove it from the socket.

4

Remove the bulb from the electrical connector by depressing the tab and pulling it out. There is very little room to maneuver behind the headlight assembly so be caul not to damage the bulb or hurt yourself.

5

Insert the new bulb into the connector. Slide it into the headlight assembly and lock in place by twisting the bulb clockwise.

6

Test the bulb by turning the light selector to the "On" position. If the bulb fails to illuminate check the electrical connection and then the bulb itself.

The exhaust gas recirculation valve is an essential part of your engines emissions system. Its job is to recirculate a precisely measured amount of exhaust gases back into the engine, thereby decreasing unwanted nitrogen oxide emissions. On older model vehicles, the EGR valve is typically mechanically controlled. With newer model vehicles, the EGR valve is most commonly electronically controlled.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, using the socket wrench and the appropriate sized socket.

2

Locate the ERG valve on your engine. It will either be bolted to the intake manifold or the exhaust manifold depending on your 3.8 engine.

3

Disconnect the air supply hose, vacuum hose and/or electrical connections from the EGR valve. You might need the screwdrivers for this step.

4

Remove all the bolts that mount the EGR valve to the intake manifold/exhaust manifold, using the socket wrench with the appropriate size socket.

5

Remove the old EGR valve and gasket.

6

Install the new gasket and EGR valve after making sure the mounting surfaces are clean. You may use the putty knife for this step.

7

Attach all hoses, wiring and bolts that were previously disconnected.

8

Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery, and then take the vehicle out on a test drive.

Traditionally, plastic is plated with chrome in an electrolytic process after being pre-treated in an electroless process. In another process, vacuum metalizing, plating is achieved when metal bonds with plastic in a vacuum chamber.

Electroless Process

This first step of the chrome plating process coats plastic with electroless nickel by using a chemical solution to make the plastic conductive for the electrolytic process. The electroless process is completed in several steps in the following order: clean, etch, neutralize, apply a catalyst, apply an accelerator and add electroless nickel.

Electrolytic Process

After the plastic has been pre-plated using the electroless process, it is placed in a solution and subjected to an electric current to add the chrome layer. This is also a lengthy process that proceeds in the following order: sulfuric acid etching, semi-bright nickel application, a sulfuric acid bath, bright acid copper application, bright nickel application and finally, ending in the application of the chrome layer.

Vaccum Metalizing

Vacuum metalizing is a lower cost alternative for plating plastic. This method is physical rather than chemical and theor eliminates the need to use toxic chemicals in the process. During this process, the plastic part bonds with metal when placed in a special vacuum chamber, coating the plastic.

The heater motor resistor on a 1999 BMW Z3 2.5-liter roadster is integrated into heater motor itself. This resistor plugs into the front side of the motor assembly. The heater resistor is not repairable; it must be removed and replaced if it fails. This resistor allows the motor to spin at variable speeds, consequently allowing the ventilation system inside the roadster to blow hot or cold air at different speeds. A bad motor resistor will either allow too much or too little current in to the motor, severely limiting the variable fan speed function of the HVAC system.

Instructions

Removal

1

Pry off both wiper arm caps with a small flat-head screwdriver, then remove the wiper arm bolts with a ratchet and socket. Mark the position of the wiper arms in relation to the spindles with a small tube of white paint. Lift the wiper arm up so they are at a 90-degree angle to the windshield, then lift the arms off of the wiper spindle gears.

2

Disconnect the washer pump tubing from the air intake/heating grille. Open the hood, then pry out the plastic retaining clips on both ends of the air intake/heating grille with the flat-head screwdriver. Lift the air intake/heating grille up and away from the lower windshield area, detach the remaining washer pump hoses, and remove the grille completely.

3

Disconnect the wiper motors electrical harness connector. Remove the bolts holding the wiper motor and arm assembly to the inside cowl, using a ratchet and socket, then slide the entire assembly to the left in order to disengage it from the integrated hooks. Lift the assembly out of the vehicle and set it on the ground or on a workbench.

4

Disengage the clamps on the blower motor fan cover by pushing them to the left until the pop loose, then set the cover aside.

5

Locate the heater motor resistor, directly below the motor body in the center of the assembly. Pry the resistor out of the fan assembly with a flat-head screwdriver. Discard the old resistor.

6

Press the new resistor into the fan motor assembly until its fully-seated.

7

Reinstall the heater motor cover and re-fasten the covers retaining clamps.

8

Position the wiper motor and wiper arm assembly inside the cowl section and slide it to the right to engage the locking tabs. Reinstall the retaining bolts for the wiper motor and wiper arm assembly.

9

Connect the washer pump hose to the underside of the air intake/heating grille assembly. Position the assembly over the cowl area and connect the top washer pump hose to the air intake/heating assembly.

10

Reinstall the plastic retaining pins on the corners of the air intake/heating grille assembly and press them down until they are fully-seated. Reinstall the wiper arms into their original position and then reinstall the wiper arm retaining bolts. Reinstall the wiper arm caps and test both systems to ensure proper operation.

If you lose all the keys to a car, it is possible to use the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) to acquire a replacement. It can be expensive to use a locksmith to create a replacement key from the autos ignition, so a locksmith should be your last resort. Take the VIN and proof of ownership to the dealer for your auto and request a duplicate key.

Instructions

1

Find the VIN and record it. The VIN is typically on a stamped metal plate on the drivers side of the dashboard. It is also stamped inside the engine compartment, on the engine or on a tag attached to it.

2

Take the VIN to an automotive dealer for that model.

3

Present to the dealer proof of ownership. Requirements will vary, but duplicate title in your name is recommended.

4

The dealer will contact the manufacturer to have a duplicate key made. This may take a few hours to a few days.

Engine misfiring usually results from simple, easily fixed problems. Engines most commonly begin to run roughly or miss as a result of wear and tear on components, which you can find at your local auto supply store. The problem usually stems originally from water, dirt or wear and their effect on engine performance.

Fuel Injectors and Water

Fuel injectors become dirty. They clog and prevent cylinders from receiving enough fuel. For a simple solution to this problem, run injector cleaner through the system. If it does not stop the misfire, the injectors may require cleaning or replacement. Water that condenses in the gas tank and enters the fuel can also cause an engine to miss; add a water-removing product to the gas to remove the water.

Spark Plugs

Spark plug failure is the most common cause of engines misfiring. Spark plugs corrode with exposure to carbon; this build p on the electrode inhibits the spark or prevents it altogether. Spark plugs can also become fouled by a rich gas mixture, or oil from leaking cylinders. To remedy this problem, install new spark plugs.

Spark Plug Wires

Bad spark plug wires also cause engines to misfire. This problem can often prove difficult to diagnose because the outside of the wires may look fine. The wires contain a graphite conducting wire that can break, however. Other plug wire problems can result from a wire developing small cracks or burns from hot engine parts. Moisture enters the wire, causing it to lose conductivity and in turn causing the engine to misfire.

Filters

Fuel filters become dirty, which can cause the engine to misfire due to lack of fuel to the cylinders. Fortunately, you can change the fuel filter easily. The air filter can also cause your engine to misfire; a dirty air filter causes the engine to receive a bad fuel mixture, resulting in misfire. Dirty fuel filters can also foul spark plugs. Change your fuel and air filters to allow your engine to run more smoothly without missing.

Spark plug wires from NGK are built for performance applications and visual appeal. NGK manufactures the wires to meet or exceed original equipment manufacturer specifications. A wire winding within the plug wire suppresses radio frequency interference generated whenever current passes through a wire. This RFI suppression prevents interference with the electronic engine controls. As the wires go bad, they lose the ability to suppress RFI and deliver ignition spark to the plug. Test the wires for continuity, resistance and proper operation.

Instructions

1

Remove the spark plug wire from the distributor and spark plug by grasping the boot at the end of the wire, twisting slightly and pulling to disconnect it.

2

Inspect the connectors on the wire within the spark plug and distributor boots. The connectors should be free of corrosion and moisture with no apparent distortion or discoloration.

3

Set a multimeter to check for resistance or ohms in the x100 range. Resistance is indicated by the Greek omega symbol. Turn the selector knob or scroll down through the options until the proper range is set.

4

Insert one of the meter probes in the distributor boot and the other probe in the spark plug boot on the wire. Make certain you have good contact between the probes and the connectors. Read the meter display. The display should read between 1,500 and 2,500 ohms of resistance per foot of wire. A reading more than 6,000 ohms per foot indicates a bad wire. NGKs low-resistance wires may have significantly less resistance, such as its Power Cable wires rated at 270 ohms per foot.

5

Grasp the plug wire by the boot and reconnect it to the distributor. Install a known good spark plug in the spark plug boot of the wire. Hold the threaded part of the spark plug against the engine block or a grounded area of the frame. Have a helper start the engine; inspect the spark produced by the plug. The spark should be blue with a strong audible report, or popping, as it fires. An orange spark with a weak report may indicate bad wire connectors.

6

Turn off the engine and remove the test plug. Grasp the plug wire by the boot and reconnect it to the spark plug installed in the engine. Firmly press the wire onto the plug and make certain it snaps into place.

7

Replace the plug wire if it fails the test in Steps 2, 4 or 5.

The 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix (available as a two-door coupe or a four-door sedan) typically has a six-cylinder 3.8-liter engine. The purpose of the ignition module is to control the electrical current to the spark plugs. The ignition module in the 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix is on top of the engine. The procedure for replacing the ignition module is similar for all Pontiac Grand Prix models with a 3.8-liter engine made from 1997 to 2000.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This will reduce the risk of electrocution while replacing the ignition assembly.

2

Label the wires to the spark plugs with tape to facilitate the installation of the new ignition module. You must reconnect the spark plug wires to their correct locations on the ignition assembly. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the ignition coils.

3

Remove the mounting screws for the ignition coils with a socket wrench and disconnect the ignition coils from the ignition module. Remove the fasteners for the ignition module and disconnect it from the engine.

4

Install the ignition coils to the new ignition module and fasten the retaining screws for the ignition coil. Torque the retaining screws to 40 inch-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect the spark plug wires to the ignition coils according to the labels you made in step 2. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The air conditioning (AC) system in a vehicle consists of several parts such as the AC evaporator, compressor and condenser. The AC compressor is one of, if not the, most important of these components, as a vehicles AC system would be virtually worthless without it. Having information on how an AC compressor works can be beneficial for automobile owners.

Function

Refrigerant in a vehicles air conditioning system is pressurized by the AC compressor. The compressor then pumps the rigerant so that it travels throughout the AC system.

Sensors

The sensors on automobiles with climate control systems can affect the way a compressor functions. An example of this would be vehicles equipped with pressure transducers. By keeping tabs on rigerant pressure, the transducer will turn the compressor off whenever these pressures get too high.

Oil

For a compressor to function correctly, the oil levels have to be precisely maintained. Having more oil than needed can prevent the AC system from cooling correctly. On the other hand, not enough oil in the compressor could cause it to stop working altogether. By having the compressor flushed to remove all the oil, the correct levels can then be added back according to your vehicles specifications.

Vehicle identification numbers, or VINs, provide specific information about your Aurora vehicle. For instance, if you want to get an insurance quote, an insurance agent can use the VIN to get exact specifications for your car and prepare a relevant quote. Decoding templates provide a convenient way to decode your Aurora vehicle on your own.

Instructions

1

Note the first three characters. They represent the World Manufacturer Identification, or WMI. For your Aurora, the WMI is 1G3; "1" for United States, "G" for General Motors" and "3" for Oldsmobile.

2

Characters four and five describe the car line and series: "GS" or "GR" for Auroras.

3

Look at character six to determine the body type, such as "5" for four-door sedan.

4

Character seven describes the restraint system. For instance, "1" means the vehicle has manual seat belts.

5

Character eight identifies the engine type.

6

The ninth character is a check digit used to verify the VIN.

7

Characters 10 and 11 identify the model year and assembly plant, respectively.

8

The final six characters represent the production sequence number.

9

Go to the Mitchell Support web page to view the range of VIN characters and explanations for features such as body type and restraint system.

There are a few different types of clutch kits designed to meet the needs for your specific driving application. When purchasing a new clutch kit, match the clutch kit with the horse power of your vehicle and the work load your vehicle will endure. A clutch kit usually includes the clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing. You need to purchase a clutch kit for replacement and upgrades.

RV Heavy-Duty Clutch Kits

RV Heavy-Duty clutch kits are designed for heavy towing in vehicles with higher torque ratings, such as trucks and RVs. The clutch plates and clutch disc surface areas are thicker, which allows them to endure the additional torque of heavy-duty vehicles. Without a heavy-duty clutch kit, heavy-duty vehicles cause additional damage to the clutch disc. This results in replacing the clutch disc more frequently and could lead to vehicle damage. There are different RV heavy-duty clutch kits you can purchase. When choosing a new RV heavy-duty clutch kit, choose one that is appropriate for your vehicles horsepower rating, torque rating and expected weight of your haul. Most auto parts stores have an expert on site to help you choose the proper clutch kit for the size of your truck or RV.

Stock Street Clutch Kit

Stock street clutch kits are the clutch kits used for vehicles that are driven regularly on the street. Most cars and sport-utility vehicles come equipped with stock street clutches and can be upgraded if the driver desires. If you purchased a standard factory model car, chances are it came with a stock street clutch. However, if you upgrade to a sports package on your car model, your vehicle may require a clutch kit for high performance vehicles because the horsepower and torque ratings might be higher. The clutch plate and clutch disc on stock street clutch discs have a medium thickness and padding to allow for easy transition between gears in vehicles with medium horsepower. Check with an automotive technician or parts dealer to find out if a stock street clutch kit is right for your vehicle.

Racing Clutch Kit

Race cars are high performance vehicles modified to travel at fast speeds and require special clutch kits that allow for quick and easy shifting between gears. Whether your race car is used for quarter-mile drag racing or long distance stock racing, your vehicle performance will be greatly improved by upgrading to a racing clutch kit. The padding on the clutch disc and clutch plates is slightly thinner than on stock street and RV heavy-duty clutch kits, which provide less friction and allows for faster shifting between gears. Race cars are not intended for hauling heavy loads, which means the gears dont have to be shifted as often, resulting on less wear on the clutch pads. There are several retailers that market racing clutch kits to provide the best performance from your race car.

You can install weatherstripping on your Jeep Cherokee in your garage with a few supplies that can be purchased at an auto parts store. Replacing the weatherstripping on a Jeep Cherokee improves the seal formed between the door frame and the closed vehicle door. Weatherstripping prevents air and moisture from entering the Jeep and ruining the interior. You will know its time to install new weatherstripping when the old weatherstripping becomes cracked, loses its shape and wont seal the door properly.

Instructions

1

Find the clips that secure the weatherstripping to the Jeep. Remove them with needle-nose pliers. Place the clips in a cup and set aside.

2

Pull the old weatherstripping off of the Jeep with your hands. Each piece of weatherstripping will slide right off the door frame channel.

3

Wipe degrease agent with a rag onto the door frame weatherstripping channel. This will remove all the grease and dirt.

4

Slide new weatherstripping onto the channel on the door frame.

5

Reattach the clips to the weatherstripping, pushing them over the top of the stripping and attaching them to the Jeeps door frame. You will hear them snap into place when properly attached.

Most cars built today offer multiple ways to access the trunk. Remote controls, keys and manual trunk releases all allow access to the trunk compartment. When one or more of these methods becomes impossible due to a bad or lost key, accessing the trunk can be more of a challenge. However, there are ways to get into the trunk in desperate situations.

Instructions

1

Locate the trunk release button or latch located near the driver seat. Most current vehicles have a manual trunk release. The release is usually located on the left floorboard near the driver seat, on the driver door below the armrest area or on the dashboard to the left of the steering wheel.

2

Fold down the back seat to access the trunk area and crawl into the trunk and pull the manual safety release. All vehicles built since 2002 are required to have a glow-in-the dark manual safely release in the trunk to prevent children or others from being accidentally locked in.

3

Contact a locksmith or your auto dealer. A locksmith will be able to pop open the lock and may be able to get a new key made for the lock. A dealership may be be able to create or order a new key if provided the vehicle identification number and proof of ownership. If the passenger compartment is also locked and inaccessible, contacting the dealer or a locksmith will help prevent damage being caused to the vehicle during attempts to get inside.

On November 3, 2009, Chrysler LLC and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) announced a recall of 88,461 Jeep Wrangler vehicles for transmission problems that could potentially cause a fire.

Defect

According to Chrysler and the NHTSA, certain model year 2007-2008 Jeep Wranglers manufactured from June 2006 through July 2008 and equipped with automatic transmissions were erroneously not equipped with a temperature warning system.

Risk

A fire may result if fluid boils over and comes into contact with the hot engine, per the NHTSA. This could cause personal injury to consumers and/or damage to property.

Remedy

Dealers must inspect and install a "hot oil" message in the instrument cluster and warning chime indicating an elevated transmission fluid condition, according to the NHTSA.

Notification

Chrysler mailed notification to registered vehicle owners with instructions to bring the affected Jeep Wranglers to authorized dealers for repair in February 2010. Concerned drivers who did not receive notification may contact Chrysler or NHTSA to determine whether their Jeep Wranglers might be subject to these transmission problems.