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Sunlight and constant temperature changes cause dashboards to become brittle and crack. The cracks ruin the interior of your vehicle and allow the underlayment to become brittle. This leads to a fine dust covering the contents of the vehicle. Replacing a dashboard requires disassembling the dash, and a replacement dash can cost hundreds of dollars. Installing a dash pad requires less labor and costs less than a replacement dashboard.

Instructions

1

Wipe the dash pad with a clean rag. Shake the paint can thoroughly for 30 to 60 seconds. Spray multiple light coats of plastic spray paint onto the surface of the dash pad. Allow the paint to cure for 24 hours before proceeding with the installation.

2

Set a tube of silicone adhesive into a bowl of hot water. Allow the silicone to soften while you prepare the dashboard for the dash pad.

3

Cut protruding material from the cracked dashboard with a razor knife. Even out rough spots by sanding the dashboard with 100-grit sandpaper. Spray an ammonia-based window cleaner onto the sanded dashboard. Wipe the cleaner from the dash with a clean rag.

4

Set the dash pad on top of the prepped dashboard. Trim the dash pad to fit the contours of the dashboard. Remove the dash pad from your vehicle.

5

Remove the silicone adhesive from the hot water. Apply a bead of silicone remover to the underside edges of the dash pad. Apply additional adhesive to the surface of the dashboard.

6

Press the dash pad onto the surface of the dashboard. Work from the center to the edges of the dash pad with a clean rag to spread the adhesive and remove wrinkles.

7

Allow the adhesive to cure for 24 hours to ensure proper adhesion between the dash pad and the dashboard.

Back in the days before check engine light codes could be retrieved by using an OBD scanner, technician had to actually know how to retrieve the codes so that engine problems could be accurately diagnosed. Although technical advances have made it simple to retrieve check engine light codes on current model vehicles, the older cars such as in 1994 Toyota can still be accurately retrieved.

Instructions

1

Remove the rubber covers on the connectors diagnostic connectors. The diagnostic connectors are located in the engine compartment or by the kick panel under the dashboard on the passenger side. Refer to the manufacturers repair manual for the exact position of the diagnostic connector for your particular model 1994 Toyota.

2

Connect either the TE1 and E1, or the T and E1 terminals in the diagnostic connectors by using a jumper wire. Refer to the manufacturers repair manual to ascertain which terminals should be jumped in and the location of the terminals to be jumped within the diagnostic connector on the particular model being diagnosed.

3

Turn the ignition key to the "On" position. Any available codes can be determined by observing the flashing of the check engine light. For example, if the engine code is "41" the check engine light will flash four times and pause followed by one additional flash. If there are any additional codes they will be displayed after a 2.5-second pause.

4

Refer to the 1994 Toyota manufacturers repair manual to decipher any codes that are retrieved.

5

Disconnect the jumper wires and replace the rubber covers on the diagnostic connectors by pushing them back over the end of the diagnostic connector.

The Duramax family of diesel engines are designed by Isuzu and built by General Motors. They are primarily available in medium-duty trucks, such as the Chevrolet Silverado 2500 pickup. The first generation of Duramax engines had the engine code LB7, and were in production from 2001 through 2004. The 2004 Duramax engine used common-rail direct injection, which does not rely on an electronic controller. The procedure for removing the fuel injectors from a LB7 Duramax engine is generally the same for all vehicles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the accidental discharge of fuel during the injector removal. Remove the mounting bolts for the lower valve cover and disconnect the cover.

2

Remove the retaining bolts for the fuel spill line with a socket wrench, and detach the spill line from the fuel injector. Remove the retainer bolt from the bracket of the fuel injector.

3

Attach fuel injector removal tool J 44639 to the bracket for the fuel injector. Grip the handle of the removal tool with a flare nut wrench.

4

Pull the flare nut wrench away from the fuel injector to pry it out of the injector hole. Remove the fuel injector from the vehicle.

5

Check the fuel injector for a copper washer. Remove the washer from the injection hole if the washer is not on the injector.

6

Repeat Steps Two through Five to remove the remaining fuel injectors.

Replacing the headlight on a 2001 Dodge Dakota requires the same procedure used on 1997 to 2004 models. The Dakota uses a single bulb for the drivers side and passenger side with two elements---one for low beam and one for high beam. If one of the elements in a single bulb burn out, the bulb still needs to be replaced. While getting to the drivers side bulb does not require the removal of the headlight assembly, the passenger side does. The air box assembly also can be removed in order to access the headlight.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Dodge Dakota after making sure the interior headlight switch is in the off position.

2

Approach the headlight assembly that contains the faulty headlight.

3

Remove the rubber gasket seal from the inside edge of the headlight assembly by unsnapping its retainers.

4

Locate the retaining screw at the lower junction of the corner marker lens and headlight assembly and remove it with the T-10 Torx head screwdriver.

5

Use the screwdriver or pry tool to gently unseat the guide pin holding the corner marker lens and running-lights lens assembly from the truck. The guide pin is located at the top behind the corner marker lens. Disconnect the driving lights and corner marker lights from the assembly by turning them a quarter turn counterclockwise and pull them out of the assembly.

6

Remove the three headlight-assembly retaining screws with the ratchet, extension and 10-mm socket. One is located on the upper inner corner; the next is located at the lower inner corner, and the last one is located at the bottom center.

7

Pull the headlight assembly forward enough to reach behind it and disconnect the wire harness plug from the back of the headlight socket.

8

Turn the retaining ring of the headlight a quarter turn counterclockwise to align the retaining tabs of the ring to the release grooves of the assembly and remove the headlight from the assembly and ring.

9

Install the replacement 9007 combination headlight into the ring and then into the headlight assembly. Be careful not to touch the glass bulb of the replacement headlight. Contact with the bulb with skin will create a weakened "hot spot" on the bulb and cause it to expire prematurely.

10

Reconnect the wire harness plug to the headlight socket and reverse the headlight assembly, corner marker or running-light assembly and rubber gasket sealer procedures to restore and finish the job.

Camber is the angle that a wheel tilts when viewed from the front of the vehicle. If the top of the wheel tilts out, the wheel has a positive camber. If it tilts in, it has a negative camber. Camber measurements are usually given in degrees, but they are also sometimes given in inches. Most vehicles from the early 1900s came with fixed front and rear axles, and it is still common for vehicles to have fixed rear axles. The preferred caster angle varies significantly from make to make and model to model, and it often varies from year to year and even trim to trim of a given model.

Early American Cars

Early Fords came with fixed axles and the preferred camber setting for most models was +0.25 to +1.0 degree, likewise most early Chevrolets with fixed axles called for a preferred camber setting of +0.5 to +1.5 degrees and early Mopar vehicles with fixed axles had an ideal camber setting of +0.25 to +0.75 degrees. However, the preferred settings could vary from model to model and year to year. It is extremely important to find the camber settings for the specific model, model year and trim before attempting to make any adjustments.

Contemporary Cars

For contemporary vehicles, the camber is usually adjustable only on the front end, unless the vehicle has independent rear suspension. Vehicles without independent rear suspension, such as most pickup trucks, will have a fixed rear axle. The ideal camber is usually zero for fixed axles on contemporary vehicles. If the camber angle is not the ideal setting, it suggests a bent or damaged part rather than an alignment problem, and it cannot be adjusted by normal wheel alignment techniques and more than likely will require more extensive repairs.

Heavy-Duty Vehicles

It is still common for tractor-trailers, buses and RVs to come with fixed front axles. As with other types of vehicles, the camber specs can range from make to make and model to model of heavy-duty vehicles. However, Bee Line, an industry leader in heavy-duty truck alignment equipment, uses zero to +0.4 degrees as an industry standard for the preferred setting of fixed steering axles. Adjusting the camber on heavy-duty vehicles normally requires applying several tones of pressure to bend the vehicles axle.

The modern car or truck has lots of sensors to tell the vehicles computer how the engine is running, and tune accordingly. One of these is the oxygen or O2 sensor, which detects the amount of oxygen in the vehicles exhaust system and adjusts the fuel/air ration at the heads accordingly. If these sensors go out, youll see a "check engine" light on your dash until theyre replaced, and your Jeep Liberty will run sluggishly. This isnt a fun job, but it can be done in about an hour with the right tools.

Instructions

1

Lift up the vehicle using the jack and place it on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it.

2

Locate the O2 sensors on the exhaust. Theyre about 2 inches long, and have a wire pigtail sticking out of the end. These are also the only sensors on the exhaust, and the only wiring thats near the exhaust at all.

3

Unplug the O2 sensor from the vehicle wiring harness using your hands.

4

Remove the O2 sensor using the 3/8-inch ratchet and the oxygen sensor socket. Then thread the replacement O2 sensor in place and tighten it down using the 3/8-inch ratchet and the oxygen sensor socket.

5

Plug the O2 sensor back into the stock harness using your hands. Repeat the process for the other O2 sensors in the exhaust, then lift the vehicle back up and remove the jack stands using the jack.

After years of constantly being opened and closed, the liftgate on a Jeep Cherokee will begin to wear out. The liftgate is supported by two hydraulic arms to keep the door in the air when opened. Occasionally these will begin to wear out causing the door to fall down. The locking mechanism on liftgates will often "dry out" and becoming stuck, preventing you from opening and closing the door. Both repairs should be done at the same time to ensure proper opening, closing and locking of the liftgate for years to come.

Instructions

1

Pull the rear seat release straps and move the rear seat forward. Climb inside of the rear cargo area. Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining screws from the lock assembly molding located at the bottom of the liftgate.

2

Lift the threaded latching bolt -- it has a green plastic tab located on its base -- by using a set of pliers. Pull until you hear the liftgate pop open. Slide the green plastic tab to the left, and it will snap off the latching bolt. Adjust the latching bolt to the position needed to freely open and close the liftgate. Replace the green plastic tab back onto the bolt. Spray all moving parts of the lock and latch assembly with the aerosol lubricant. Wipe clean with a shop towel. Replace the liftgate trim, and tighten bolts with screwdriver.

3

Open and fully extend the liftgate with a friend supporting it in the air. Using a screwdriver, remove the old support bolts from the liftgate and vehicle until the support arm comes free. Place the new support arm where the old support arm was removed from and insert support arm bolts to keep it in place. Use the screwdriver to tighten all support arm bolts. Lower the liftgate to ensure alignment, and adjust if needed.

The valve cover on the Volvo 960 is finely machined and does not use a solid gasket as with most vehicles. Volvo instead requires the use of a liquid gasket. When you do any work requiring removal of the valve cover, a new liquid gasket should be applied. This necessitates removal of the old gasket. The process is tedious, but not difficult.

Instructions

1

Read the instructions for using the liquid gasket remover. Open the valve cover and expose the two surfaces where the liquid gasket was applied. Apply the gasket remover liberally on both surfaces and allow them to soak for approximately 10 minutes.

2

Using the razor blade, carefully scrape the surfaces to remove the old gasket. Employ the putty knife in places where the razor blade wont fit. Continue to scrape, until all of the old gasket is gone. Wipe the surfaces clean with the shop cloth.

3

Apply the gasket remover to both surfaces a second time and allow them to soak. Scrape the surfaces gently with either the razor blade or the putty knife and ensure that the entire surface has been cleaned of the old gasket. Wipe both surfaces with a shop cloth.

Removing the transmission shifter from your Jeep Wrangler requires removal of the center console inside the Jeep. From there you can access the bolts that hold the shifter in place. The shifter is unlikely to fail as a unit, but if it does you can perform this removal with little effort. A new shifter is available from the Jeep dealer or you can source a used shifter through a salvage yard.

Instructions

1

Sit in the Jeep and grasp the handle on the top of the shifter. Pull it straight up, popping it off the shaft. It will come off hard but that is normal.

2

Remove the cover in the base of the cup holder, using a small screwdriver to pry it out. Pop the trim bezel loose around the shifter using a flat screwdriver or trim stick then lift it over the top of the shifter.

3

Remove the bolts under the trim bezel and in the cup holder with a socket and ratchet. Lift the console over the shifter and set it aside.

4

Locate the wiring harness connection on the side of the shifter, depress the locking tab on the connection and separate the two halves. Disconnect the shifter cable from the side of the shifter by popping the retaining clip loose from the mount pin with a screwdriver, then pull the cable off the pin.

5

Remove the four bolts securing the shifter to the floor using a socket and ratchet. Lift the shifter off the floor and remove it from the Jeep.

A volt gauge for an automobile measures the voltage in your vehicless electrical system. It typically functions only while the ignition is on, and an auto volt gauge may include a warning light for when the voltage is outside the normal operating range. You must mount an auto volt gauge where you can see it while driving, usually under the dashboard. The kit for an auto volt gauge contains mounting hardware specific to that volt gauge.

Instructions

1

Find a fuse in your vehicles fuse box that does not receive any current unless your vehicles ignition is on. Common choices include the fuse for your stereo system or your power windows. Pull this fuse from its socket.

2

Attach the mount for the volt gauge in a convenient location, according to the instructions. This will typically require you to drill holes in the dashboard with a drill, and fasten the volt gauge mount with screws.

3

Cut two lengths of 14-gauge electrical wire that are several feet long. Strip inch of the insulation from one end of each wire. Connect the bare end of one of these wires to the positive terminal of the voltage gauge with electrical tape. Connect the bare end of the other wire to the negative terminal of the voltage gauge with electrical wire. Attach the volt gauge to its mount according to the instructions.

4

Route the free end of the negative wire to a grounded screw on the dashboard. Cut off the excess wire and strip the insulation from the last half inch of the wire. Loosen the grounded screw, wrap the wire around it and tighten the screw.

5

Route the free end of the positive wire to the fuse box. Cut off the excess wire and strip inch of the insulation from the end of the wire. Push the bare end of the positive wire into the empty fuse socket and replace the fuse. Secure the end of the positive wire with electrical tape.

The coil pack in a car is responsible for delivering a clean strong spark to the spark plugs. A defective coil pack can cause an intermittent spark, as well as a weak spark. Heat can create problems for a coil pack causing internal damage. You can check the coil with only a few tools and a basic knowledge of cars.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on level ground and set the emergency brake. Open the hood of the vehicle.

2

Disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. Label the wires for proper replacement. Follow back the spark plug wires to the coil pack.

3

Disconnect the coil pack by pulling on the electrical connector in the center of the pack.

4

Remove the coil pack using the wrench to unbolt the support bracket. Place the coil on a work bench, with the terminal facing up.

5

Turn on the volt meter and turn the dial to 20,000 ohms. Place the volt meter black lead to the center of the coil pack where the spark plug wire is connected. Place the red meter lead to the positive terminal on the coil. This checks the secondary resistance. Check the readings against your cars service manual to determine the proper operating range.

6

Set the volt meter to 10 ohms, and touch the terminal "B+" found on top of the coil. Use the red meter lead. Touch the negative terminal with the black meter lead. This will test the primary resistance. Check the readings against the vehicles service manual for proper range of operation.

The 240SX is a two-door compact car that Nissan sold in North America from 1989 to 1998. The 1991 model belongs to the first generation of the 240SX that was in production from 1989 to 1995. These vehicles were equipped with a 4-cylinder, 2.4-liter engine that uses sequential fuel injection. This type of fuel injection uses an electric fuel pump to deliver fuel at high pressure. The fuel pump for the 1991 Nissan 240SX is accessible from the trunk of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuse for the fuel pump from the fuse box under the dashboard. Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Crank the engine twice to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Turn the ignition off, and replace the fuse for the fuel pump.

2

Disconnect the cable for the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench to prevent accidental sparking. Open the rear trunk and disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel gauge. Remove the cover for the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the fuel pump assembly with a socket wrench. Lift the fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank, and discard the O-ring on the fuel tank. Plug the resultant opening in the fuel tank with a clean shop rag to keep dirt out of the fuel tank.

4

Remove the shop rag from the fuel tank opening. Install a new O-ring onto the fuel tank. Place the new fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank, and fasten the fuel pump assemblys retaining bolts with a socket wrench. Attach the fuel lines and electrical connection, and replace the cover for the fuel tank.

5

Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check the fuel system for leaks.

Established in 1936, Master Power has been in the production of air tools since its conception. All tools produced by this franchise are made with an ergonomic grip for operator comfort and come with a one- or two-year warranty. For a wide variety of your air tool needs, Master Power produces a host of products that fit into varying categories.

Drills

Four different models of drills are made by Master Power. They range from five and a half to seven and a half inches in length and the heaviest model weighs only two and a half pounds. The range of maximum free RPM is 1,100 to 2,800. The MP1447-51 and MP1448-55 models are non-reversible, while reversible capabilities are available with the MP1460-42 and MP1462-51 models.

Finishing Tools

Master Power has a line of finishing tools that include the random orbital and orbital sanders, sanders/polishers, angle and disc sanders, and vacuums. This complete line of air tools is suitable for work with finishing wood, composites, metal and stone. The MP4400 series of random orbital sanders, for instance, comprises seven different lightweight models that come with the benefit of low vibration.

Fastening

Master Power also produces six types of fastening tools. Pistol grip screwdrivers include the direct drive and positive clutch types. Adjustable and verso clutch pistol grip and inline screwdrivers, impact wrenches and screwdrivers and nutrunners are also available. All Master Power fastening tools have a powerful, high-torque output. These pneumatic screwdrivers have quick-change bit adapters, and reverse action is standard for all Master Power screwdrivers and nutrunners.

Grinders

Pencil, die and wheel grinders are also produced by Master Power. Pencil grinders come in the MP4200 Inline or the MP4201 Angle model. Each weighs less than a half-pound and is between five and six inches in length. The five models of die grinders lets you choose the air tool that best fits your die grinding needs. Master Power also offers a choice of three models of wheel grinders with either front or rear exhaust, 13,500 maximum free RPM and wheel capacity of four inches.

There are many reasons why you may need to remove the rear bumper on your Toyota Cressida. It is possible that your bumper has been damaged in an accident or that you just want to upgrade to a fancy one. Fortunately, this is a job you can do right at home with very little mechanical ability or experience. Be ready to spend about an hour to remove your bumper. You just need to purchase a few tools that can be found at any hardware store.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle in a comfortable workspace and set your parking brake.

2

Open the trunk of your car using the ignition key. Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws on the inside of the trunk where the plastic cover hides the bumper bolts.

3

Remove the four bolts that secure the bumper using a socket wrench.

4

Remove the screws that hold part of the bumper from the underside of the rear wheel fender wells. These screws are located near the rear bumper.

5

Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry apart the rivets that hold the plastic part of the rear bumper to the metal part.

6

Pull off the rear bumper using your hands. It may take a little force to pull it off if it has any dirt or grime in the connection areas.

The starter in a 1998 Saturn mounts to the engine in the same location as most late model vehicles. It mounts below the engine, into the bell housing. In traditional fashion, the starter solenoid is bolted onto the starter to make it easier to remove both components at one time. When the starter fails to engage the flywheel, located inside of the bell housing, the engine does not start. When this happens, replace the starter to make your Saturn operable again.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the large black starter wire that connects to the starter. The wire secures to a threaded post on the starter with a small nut. The nut often rusts and removal is easiest with an adjustable wrench or vice grips.

2

Pull the wiring harness out of the Saturns starter solenoid by pushing on the small tab in the center and then by pulling on it.

3

Remove the three bolts that secure the starter to the Saturn. This requires a combination of a 12mm socket and a 12mm wrench. Use the socket on the two lower bolts and the wrench on the upper bolt. The use of a wrench accounts for clearance issues on the top bolt.

4

Pull the starter off the bell housing. Subsequently, this pulls the starter gear out of the bell housing where it meshes with the flywheel.

5

Place the new starter against the bell housing while you slide the gear into the bell housing. This meshes the gear with the flywheel.

6

Bolt the starter into place with the new bolts supplied with the starter. If new bolts were not supplied, use the old ones.

7

Slide the wiring harness onto the metal tab located on the starter solenoid until the harness snaps into place.

8

Reconnect the large black starter wire to the starter. Use the new nut threaded onto the replacement starter. Do not use the old nut.

The Ford Explorer was first manufactured in 1991 and is still in production as of 2011. The transfer case conveys power from the transmission to the axles and can be changed from two-wheel drive to four-wheel drive. Problems with this part makes the vehicle virtually unusable. Several issues can be averted with the careful application of preventative maintenance, but when trouble starts you can at least diagnose the most likely reason for the difficulty.

Instructions

1




Drive the vehicle slowly and attempt to engage the four wheel drive through all gears: "2H", "4H", "N", and "4L". Noisiness, jumping out of gear or difficulty shifting indicates further inspection and testing is needed.

2




Place the vehicle on a hard level surface and set the parking brake. Engage the drive through all gears with the Explorer stationary. The shifter should work smoothly through all four settings. Difficulty shifting and noisiness requires investigation of the components. The linkage might be loose, bent or binding in movement. Any of the parts in the transfer case may be worn or damaged. These all indicate further troubleshooting is needed.

3




Jack up the vehicle and place it jack stands. The transfer case is located between the transmission and the rear axle. Check for any leaks or fluid in or around the transfer case, but particularly around the front and rear shafts because they both have seals that can be worn. Locate the transfer case fill plug. It is behind the transfer case damper if installed. If so, remove the damper. Remove the plug and insert your little finger to measure. The lubricant should be at or just below the bottom edge of the plug hole.

4




Remove the transfer case to ensure the components inside are not damaged or misaligned. Where equipped, remove the skid plate. If the damper is still in place, remove it. Drain the lubricant by removing the drain plug on the bottom of the transfer case. Remove the electrical connector, if installed, then remove the speed sensor and speedometer cable from the case. Disconnect both drive shafts. Remove the mounting bracket for the electrical connector, or the vent hose from the shift lever on manual models. For manual models, remove the nut from the shift lever and remove it and the bolts holding the shifter to the extension housing.

5

Place a transmission jack under the transfer case and lift it slightly so that you can use safety chains to attach the case to the jack. Remove the five bolts holding the case, and slide the case down and away from the vehicle. Remove and discard the gasket between the case and the extension housing. Inspect all parts for wear, breakage, misplacement or misalignment. Any parts with those signs must be replaced before reinstalling the transfer case.

There may come a time when you need to jump start or change a car battery. Consumers should understand the complex chemical properties that occur in a charging battery, including the risk of explosive gases.

Chemicals

Batteries contain sulfuric acid mixed with lead plates. Sulfuric acid is hazardous; it burns through most clothing and may burn through your skin. Warning signs on batteries state that the acid may shoot toward your eyes, causing blindness.

Reaction

Most of the chemical compounds in a battery are in a water solution. The water solution causes a chemical reaction with the sulfuric acid. The reaction creates electrons, which are absorbed by the lead plates.

Emission

Hydrogen gas is created in the immediate area of the charging battery. This is not a concern to anyones health, but hydrogen is very flammable. A direct open flame may cause an explosion, destroying the battery and harming anyone working on the car.

A vacuum hose is used on an automobile engine to precisely operate various components. When vacuum hoses fail, a number of problems may be caused that result in poor engine performance.

Purpose

Vacuum hoses are thin rubber hoses that are used to deliver vacuum to numerous engine components. Vacuum hoses are designed to be flexible, yet rigid enough to not collapse when under heavy vacuum. Though similar in appearance, vacuum hoses are not interchangeable with emissions and fuel hoses. These hoses are designed to resist deterioration from contact with chemicals and may collapse from vacuum pressure.

Troubleshooting

Though often neglected until leaking or broken, vacuum hoses should be regularly inspected for damage. Hoses that show cracks, wear from abrasion or heat, or collapse easily when pinched should be replaced. Vacuum hoses may also become clogged from sediments.

Replacement

When replacing vacuum hoses it is important to use an identical hose. Both inner and outer measurements are important to assure the hose can carry the required amount of pressure. Vacuum hoses should be placed to avoid tight turns that can cause the hose to kink. It is important to assure that the hose is not in contact with hot or moving parts that may damage the hose.

You can reset the air bag light on your 2005 Frontier right from your home garage in just a few moments. When the SRS, or air bag, light illuminates on the instrument panel, it means there is a malfunction in the air bag system that needs to be looked at and repaired immediately. If not, you risk the air bag deploying while you are driving. Once you have addressed the problem, just reset the light and it will turn off. You should reset it as soon as you have fixed the problem, so it can accurately alert you to any future problems that may arise.

Instructions

1

Get inside your Frontier and close all doors. Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. Make sure you dont start the engine, though. Once the air bag light flashes, turn the key to the "off" position immediately.

2

Wait 10 seconds and turn the vehicle on, wait for the air bag light to flash, then immediately turn off the vehicle.

3

Repeat Step 2 one more time. This should reset and turn off the air bag light.

The radiator cooling fan is vital to the cooling system in a 1992 Oldsmobile. The fan will switch on whenever the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature (200 to 230 degrees F). A properly working fan should come on whenever the air conditioner is switched on, or when the car is in heavy stop-and-go traffic.

Faulty Fuses

Faulty fuses might cause the fan to stop working. Oldsmobile Regency models have two fan fuses: a 10 amp and a 40 amp. The fuses are located in the covered fuse box under the hood. A diagram of the fuses is fixed to the underside of the cover. Check the fuses to make sure they are in good working order.

Faulty Relays

Faulty fan relays might cause the radiator fan to stop working. The relays are located in a covered relay panel. The underside of the cover shows a diagram of which component is operated by the given relay. The relays are located on the drivers side of the radiator for the Oldsmobile 98 and 88 models.

Coolant Temperature Sensor

A faulty coolant temperature sensor can cause the fan from spinning. Most properly functioning General Motors coolant sensors have a resistance of 1,000 ohms at 32 degree F. The sensors resistance will drop below 200 ohm when the engine coolant temperature reaches 200 degrees F. The sensor sends data to the on-board computer, which turns the fan on when conditions warrant extra cooling power.

In order for fuel and air to combust properly in your engine, there has to be a waste product created. Once this exhaust is expelled from the engine, it must be routed out. Y pipes are one design used for this.

Identification

There are a number of different design schemes that can be applied to vehicle exhaust systems. One of these is the Y-pipe design. They can be located or installed into a number of different automobiles ranging from Fords to Nissans to Porsches.

Basic Design

The manifold in your car is the mechanism that receives the exhaust output from your engines cylinders. It then has to route that exhaust into the exhaust pipe so that it can be emitted from the automobile. If the manifold has two "branches" or outlets, the top portions of the Y-pipe match up to them. The exhaust is then funneled into the tail of the Y and into the exhaust pipe.

Extended Assembly

In some cases, the Y pipe will lead into the catalytic converter before being sent into the exhaust pipe. After it has been sent through the exhaust pipe, the exhaust then reaches the muffler for sound dampening. It is then sent out through the tailpipe at the rear of your vehicle.

A vehicles exhaust pipe is primarily responsible for directing the noxious exhaust gases produced by the engine away from the interior of the vehicle. Exhaust pipes also operate to rout the exhaust gases through a muffler to quiet the noise produced by the gases. In some cars, they rout exhaust gases through a catalytic converter designed to reduced emissions. When a defective muffler or catalytic converter needs to be replaced, the first step is to remove the exhaust pipe.

Instructions

1

Lift the vehicle with a floor jack and support the weight with jack stands.

2

Use a wrench to disconnect the exhaust manifold from the engines cylinder head. The exhaust manifold attaches to the engines cylinder head with several bolts. Once the bolts have been removed, pull the exhaust manifold away from the engine.

3

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold from underneath the vehicle. The exhaust pipe connects to the manifold with two bolts, which can be removed with a wrench.

4

Pull the exhaust manifold out of the engine compartment.

5

Disconnect the exhaust pipes hanger. The hanger is used to hold the exhaust pipe to the vehicles frame, and is typically located towards the rear of the vehicle. The hanger can either be disconnected from the exhaust pipe or from the frame by removing the hangers bolt(s) with a wrench.

Hydraulic bottle jacks are expensive to purchase and are an essential tool for every mechanic. When you need to lift a car, nothing else will do the job in the same way as will a bottle jack. When you have an issue with yours, it can be very frustrating since it often means the jack needs to be sent out for a costly repair. However, you may be able to fix a few of the common problems with your bottle jack yourself, without sending it out for repair.

Instructions

1

Compare the capacity of the jack to the weight of the vehicle you are lifting. The capacity of the jack is usually written either on the jack or on the documentation that came with it. The vehicle weight is usually on a plate on the drivers door pillar.

2

Extend the piston all the way by pumping it up or by opening the release valve and pulling it up. Watch the piston for binding and check it for dirt, grit or excess oil. There should only be a little oil on the piston. Once it is up, check the seal at the bottom to make sure it is not pinched or cut. If the seal needs to be replaced, it should only be done at an authorized repair facility.

3

Open the oil reservoir plug. This is the uppermost cap on the jack. The oil should be 1/4 inch below the opening. Top off the hydraulic fluid to get it there.

4

Bleed the jack. Open the release valve and pump the handle vigorously several times. Close the release valve, pump the jack to its full height and let it down again by opening the release valve. If the jack does not reach its full height, then repeat the process until it does. Wipe down the jack with a cloth before bleeding and examine it afterward for evidence of any leaks.

5

Lift the load using the jack. If the jack still will not lift, then the problem is likely to be the pump. Pump replacement procedures vary by jack and are best carried out at a certified repair facility.

Jeep had several recalls on various 2001 models, including the Wrangler, Cherokee and Grand Cherokee. Most of these recalls were for similar defects across all models, but some recalls were for problems found on particular Jeep vehicles. Two of the largest recalls came on all three Jeep models, affecting more than 1 million vehicles.

Jeep Wrangler

The 2001 Jeep Wrangler was one of the models that was recalled for child-seat and fuel-injection problems. These two recalls were part of the 1 million Jeeps recalled by the manufacturer, and were two of seven problems found on the Wrangler. A child-seat could not be anchored properly to the Wranglers seats according to Federal Motor Safety Standards requirements. The Wrangler was also part of the massive recall of Jeeps for an exhaust and manifold problem concerning the fuel-injection system. The intake of the manifold was allowing debris to accumulate in the engine, which could result in a fire. The 2001 Jeep Wrangler was also recalled for problems with the fuel pump, ignition switch, exterior lighting problems, master cylinder problems and roof-rack latches.

2001 Jeep Cherokee

There were eight different recalls issued for the 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Two of the recalls were part of the 1-million vehicle recall that was seen on the Wrangler and Grand Cherokee concerning the child seat and manifold. Four other recalls on the Cherokee were for problems with the exterior lighting. All four of the exterior-lighting recalls dealt with insufficient illumination of the headlights and reflectors on the Cherokee. Another problem with the Cherokee concerned the master cylinder leaking brake fluid. The internal seal on the master cylinder was losing flexibility in low temperatures, causing brake fluid to leak. The last recall on the Jeep Cherokee was for the plastic grommet on the fuel pump. This grommet connector degraded or corroded, because it was not compatible with gasoline. This caused the grommet to degrade to the point of leaking gasoline.

2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Ten different recalls were issued for the 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Eight dealt with the same problems seen in the Wrangler and Cherokee, including the child-seat and fuel-injection problems, but two were different. One of the recalls was for only 626 Grand Cherokees concerning the steering gear box. A nut was coming loose, causing the steering wheel to lock. The other recall, which was different than the other Jeep recalls, was for Grand Cherokees equipped with heated seats. The heating elements were overheating to the point where they could create a fire hazard or burn the passenger.

The Ford F350 is a truck that many people use to get around in rugged terrain or haul trailers. If you have an F350 that will not start after the engine is hot, you probably have something wrong with your coolant levels or coolant system. You dont have to be a mechanic to get your F350 running again, but a professional should handle major repairs. Troubleshooting the issue yourself could save you money if you the problem is minor.

Instructions

1

Turn the F350 off if it is overheating. You will be able to tell from the temperature gauge on the dashboard. Allow the truck to sit for three to four hours. Open the hood to allow the engine to cool faster.

2

Look over the coolant levels in your cooling system while the hood is open. The coolant will be labeled on the tank. This is located on the left side of the engine. Look for the fill lines on the coolant tanks and make sure that you have enough coolant in the system.

3

Use a funnel to pour more coolant into the tank. Coolant can be purchased at auto shops or your local grocery store. Make sure that you get the 50/50 coolant mixture. If you dont have access to any coolant, you can use distilled water in the meantime.

4

Look underneath the truck for any leaks. This could be coming from your trucks water pump. Have a professional replace the water pump, as this is a very complicated procedure.

If you take your Jeep Wrangler off road often, rust problems can develop on your exhaust system due to water and moisture. Whether you are replacing your exhaust with an aftermarket kit or a factory system, the process is virtually the same. Exhaust kits may be purchased at any local auto parts store and installed yourself using simple tools. Eye protection must be worn to protect against falling debris.

Instructions

Removal of Stock Exhaust

1

Cut the exhaust pipe directly behind the muffler using a hack saw.

2

Remove the bolts on the flange that connects the muffler to the catalytic converter using a ratchet and socket. Remove the muffler from the vehicle.

3

Remove the stock tailpipe hangers off the factory mounts located on the frame by pulling them out of the rubber bushings with your hands.

4

Pull the stock tailpipe out of the vehicle.

Installation of New Exhaust

5

Slide the tailpipe hangers into the stock bushings located on the frame.

6

Lift the muffler into position. Slide one end into the tailpipe.

7

Install the flange onto the catalytic converter and tighten the bolts using a ratchet and socket.

8

Place the exhaust clamp that came with the kit over the muffler and tailpipe connection. Tighten the bolts using a ratchet and socket.

9

Start the vehicle and check for leaks in the system.

Resistor-type spark plugs perform a crucial function on ATVs. These spark plugs contain a 5-kilowatt ohm ceramic resistor core inside the spark plug shell. The resistor functions as a suppressor against electromagnetic interference, also know as radio frequency interference, when the ignition fires at high voltage. This electricity "noise" can disrupt vehicle radios, often in the form of a hissing, popping or crackling noise. There is a marked difference between resistor and non-resistor spark plugs regarding ATV ignition systems and performance.

Ignition and Voltage

ATV engines typically use a coil or magneto to produce a high-voltage spark that travels through the spark plug wire and to the spark plug. When the primary winding inside the coil is turned off or on, depending upon the type, it sends a signal to the secondary winding to activate. The secondary winding steps up the voltage from 12 volts to anywhere from 30,000 to 50,000 volts. This high voltage is required to create an arc between the spark plug ground and positive electrode. The high voltage creates a stray radio frequency noise.

Resistor vs. Non-Resistor -- Communications

The primary purpose of resistor spark plugs for an ATV is to allow them to soak up powerful radio wave frequency interference. Since the electromagnetic discharge of high voltage also has a radio frequency signal, it often interrupts and causes static in ATV radios, CB radios and GPS systems. The resistor plug acts as a voltage soak to suppress static, crackling and loss of communication signal. Without resistor plugs, particularly on an older model ATV, no suppression exists, and interference can be detected in communication devices at any engine rpm. The noise interference can take on an annoying whine, directly proportionate to the engine speed.

Resistor vs. Non-Resistor -- Ignition Backlash

On many off-road vehicles, the secondary systems, including resistor spark plugs, are used to reduce the high electrical backlash caused by the coils primary winding. The backlash, or extra electrical feedback, causes a disruption in the ignition system, such as the CDI boxes and igniters that are part of the ignition control modules. ATV vehicles that do not have such secondary resistor systems can show poor performance, such as periodic missing, rough idle and high-speed ignition cutout. ATVs and motocross bikes use resistor spark plugs to protect the ignition control modules.

Resistor vs. Non-Resistor -- Backlash and RFI

Radio frequency interference can cause disruptive signals to an ATVs sophisticated on-board computer, which links to the control modules. Secondary electrical systems close to the coil will cause backlash and high RFI, since their voltage signal is significantly stronger. Resistor spark plugs suppress RFI and electronic backlash, keeping communication systems clear and on-board computers from harm. Non-resistor spark plugs can cause radio, CB and GPS static interference, as well as disrupt the entire ignition system. Newer ATV models with computer management systems will sometimes not start or run poorly when fitted with non-resistor spark plugs, due to the sensitivity of the computer and module settings.

Older ATV models

ATV models manufactured before 1979, and some models prior to 1990, do not have computer engine management systems or microprocessors. Therefore, they do not have ignition problems related to radio frequency interference. These older off-road vehicles benefit from resistor spark plugs only in a communications application if they have been modified or fitted to accept a radio, CB or GPS system.

Resistor/Non-Resistor Advantages and Disadvantages

The advantages of a resistor spark plug are straightforward, in that it suppresses RFI, for communications and ignition systems. However, resistor material is often composed of carbon material, which deteriorates with age. The deterioration will cause a suppression failure, leading to radio frequency interference. This results in additional maintenance. Resistor spark plugs do absorb some of the coils maximum reserve output, and this reduction applies more to older vehicles in which the owner has installed non-resistor plugs in a system that never had or required them. Older ATV models that do not have computers or communication systems do not suffer any RFI-related problems.

Historically, aluminum used in vehicle bodies has been around a long time. The hood of the Model T Ford was made of aluminum and 1930s vehicles also had aluminum parts. The main advantage to using aluminum instead of steel is the significantly lighter weight.

Difficulties

Repairing auto bodies with aluminum can be difficult, since oxygen contamination can ruin the process. Modern welding methods have made this problem easier to handle. Its best not to use serrated hammers during the body work, since the soft nature of aluminum could result in gouging.

TIG Welding

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welding emerged in 1950. Its considered the best type of welding for aluminum body work. TIG has superior weld arc control and doesnt produce sparks or messy spatter when the surface is clean. Without contaminants on the metal, there are no harmful fumes, either.

Techniques

A tricky thing about aluminum is it does not show color changes when heated to the melting point like steel does, so care must be taken to learn how to recognize this point. Cleanliness of the metal is important, since residue can contain oxygen and hydrogen that will result in poor welds.

The Caravan is a minivan that Chrysler Group sells under its Dodge brand. Chrysler introduced the Caravan in 1984, and the the 2001 model belongs to the fourth generation of this series. The 2001 Dodge Caravan is available with six-cylinder engines that require timing chains. These engines have a single overhead camshaft, and a displacement of 3.3 or 3.8 liters. The timing chain does not wear out and should only require replacement if it breaks.

Instructions

1

Drain the coolant from the radiator into a drain pan. Drain the oil from the crankcase into a separate drain pan. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the right wheel and splash shield under the engine with a socket wrench.

2

Detach the oil pick up tube from the oil pan and disconnect the oil pan. Remove the drive belt from the air compressor and disconnect the damper from the crankshaft. Detach the lower hose from the radiator and remove the heater hose from the cover of the timing chain.

3

Disconnect the engine mount and its bracket from the right side of the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the water pump and power steering support bolt from the timing chain cover. Disconnect the mounting bolts from the timing chain cover and detach the cover. Discard the gasket for the timing chain cover.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored link on the timing chain. Disconnect the attaching bolt for the camshaft sprocket with a socket wrench. Remove the timing chain and the camshaft sprocket. Disconnect the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft with special tools 5048-1, 5048-6 and 8539.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until its timing arrow points straight up. Lubricate the new timing chain and the sprockets with engine oil. Place the timing chain onto the camshaft sprocket so that the plated link aligns with the dot on the camshaft sprocket.

6

Put the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket so that the other plated link on the timing chain aligns with the dot on the crankshaft sprocket. Position the camshaft so that its timing arrow points straight down and install the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft. Tighten the bolt on the camshaft sprocket 40 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

7

Install the crankshaft sprocket on the the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft two full turns and align its timing marks once again.

8

Clean the mating surfaces n the timing chain with a shop towel. Install a new gasket onto the timing chain cover so the edge of the gasket is 0.02 in. past the edge of the cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the flats of the oil pump drive are vertical. Install the oil pump to the crankshaft so that the flats of the oil pump rotor align with the flats of the crankshaft.

9

Replace the timing chain cover and fasten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Tighten the 8mm bolts to 20 ft. lbs. and tighten the 10mm bolts to 40 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the water pump and bolt for the power steering support to the timing chain cover. Replace the damper to the crankshaft.

10

Install the bracket for the engine mount. bracket with a socket wrench. Tighten the 10mm bolts to 40 ft. lbs. and tighten the 8mm bolts to 21 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the remaining components by performing steps one and two in reverse order. Fill the radiator with fresh coolant, and fill the engine with new oil. Start the engine and correct any fluid leaks.

Mercedes-Benz has a long history of combining quality materials and cutting edge technology to build its cars. Strong, light-weight materials are used to craft body components and structural elements.

Alloy Steel

Mercedes autos, like the popular C-Class, are built using ultra light-weight high-strength steel alloys. According to World Steel Association, Mercedes uses advanced steel alloys because they provide greater performance and safety and weigh less than standard steel body material.

Aluminum

New Sports Class Mercedes are light weight and responsive because of new aluminum construction methods. The body of the SL weighs in at just 531 lbs. and is constructed from a combination of forged, cast and sheet aluminum.

Carbon Fiber

Automobile manufacturers are using lighter body materials to improve fuel efficiency to meet the stringent CAF standards imposed by the government. Mercedes is cooperating with Toray to manufacture strong carbon fiber reinforced plastic body panels for its 2012 models.

Usually the only time the airbags warning light turns on is when there has been an accident and the airbag has deployed. But sometimes the airbag light, also called the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) light, goes on because the On-Board Diagnostics computer receives a trouble code from a sensor in the SRS. This is to alert you of a malfunction in the airbag system. In either case, you need to have the airbag system replaced before you reset the airbags warning light. Once you do that, it is an easy fix taking only a few moments of your time.

Instructions

1

Find the fuse panel cover in the foot well on the drivers side of the vehicle. Pull down on it to open it.

2

Find a yellow connector inside the fuse panel. Pull out this connector. This is the airbag power connector, also called the SRS power connector.

3

Insert one end of the paperclip into one terminal of the SRS power connector and insert the other end of the paperclip into the other terminal.

4

Put the key into the ignition and turn on the vehicle, making sure you dont start the engine. The paperclip shorts out the SRS light, thus resetting and turning it off. Plug the SRS power connector back into the fuse panel. Put the cover back on the fuse panel and shut off the vehicle.

5

Wait a couple of minutes, then turn the engine on. Look on the instrument panel to ensure that the SRS light has turned off. Turn off the engine and remove the keys from the vehicle.

Infiniti equipped the 2003 FX35 models with a xenon bulb headlamp system. Over time, the bulb can fail because of vibration or shock caused by driving over rough road surfaces. The bulb and bulb socket snap into the back of the headlamp housing, allowing you replace the bulb without removing the entire headlamp assembly. Remove some engine compartment components to gain access to the headlamp housings.

Instructions

Passenger Side Headlamp Replacement

1

Turn the headlight control switch and the ignition switch to the Off position. Open the hood.

2

Locate the radiator overflow reservoir on the passenger side fender inside the engine compartment. Remove the overflow tube clamp from the radiator pressure cap tower, using pliers. Remove the reservoir mounting bolt, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the reservoir out of the engine compartment and place it in an upright position with the loose end of the overflow hose above the fluid level in the reservoir to prevent coolant loss.

3

Locate the headlamp socket on the rear of the headlamp housing. Rotate the headlamp cap counterclockwise to disengage it from the housing. Unsnap the socket retaining spring. Rotate the bulb socket assembly counterclockwise to disengage it from the housing and pull the bulb socket out of the housing.

4

Pull the old bulb out of the bulb socket. Insert the new bulb into position in the bulb socket. Insert the bulb socket in the housing and rotate it clockwise until it locks in the housing. Snap the socket retaining spring into position. Install the headlamp cap and rotate it clockwise until it locks in position.

5

Place the coolant overflow reservoir in position in the engine compartment. Install the reservoir mounting bolt and tighten it to 37 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket. Push the overflow tube onto the radiator pressure cap tower nipple and install the clamp, using pliers.

Driver Side Headlamp Replacement

6

Turn the headlight control switch and the ignition switch to the Off position. Open the hood.

7

Unsnap the four air cleaner case clips around the perimeter of the air cleaner case cover. Push the cover toward the driver side fender to disengage the cover from the air inlet duct, then lift the cover up and out of the engine compartment to gain access to the headlamp housing.

8

Locate the headlamp socket on the rear of the headlamp housing. Rotate the headlamp cap counterclockwise to disengage it from the housing. Unsnap the socket retaining spring. Rotate the bulb socket assembly counterclockwise to disengage it from the housing and pull the bulb socket out of the housing.

9

Pull the old bulb out of the bulb socket. Snap the new bulb in position in the bulb socket. Insert the bulb socket in the housing and rotate it clockwise until it locks in the housing. Snap the socket retaining spring into position. Install the headlamp cap and rotate it clockwise until it locks in position.

10

Place the air cleaner cover in the engine compartment. Cock the cover to the right and push it down until the grommet goes into the locator hole while guiding it onto the resonator below the cover. Push the cover to the left while guiding the air inlet duct into the hole in the side of the cover. Snap the four cover clips into position on the cover.

Removing the pitman arm from your Chevy K1500 requires a pitman arm puller as the arm-to-sector shaft clearance is extremely tight. The arm is not quite a press fit, but it is so tight that you cannot drive or pry the arm off the steering box. You can heat the arm with a torch to expand it, but you will still need to press it off the shaft with the puller. A pitman arm puller can be rented at most auto parts stores if you do not have one.

Instructions

1

Locate the pitman arm under the front of the truck on the drivers side. The tie rod is attached to the lower portion of the pitman arm and the steering box sector shaft on the upper portion.

2

Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end with a pair of pliers and discard it. Place a socket and ratchet on the tie rod nut and rotate it counterclockwise, removing the nut from the tie rod end.

3

Place a tie rod separator between the tie rod end and the pitman arm. Drive the separator in with a hammer, forcing the tie rod end out of the pitman arm. Lay the tie rod aside.

4

Locate the nut on the end of the sector shaft at the top end of the pitman arm. Place a socket and breaker bar on the nut and turn it counterclockwise to free the nut, then replace the breaker bar with a socket and remove the nut from the shaft.

5

Place the two arms from a pitman arm puller on the pitman arm directly below the sector shaft. Turn the shaft in the center of the puller clockwise with a socket and ratchet, forcing the pitman arm off the sector shaft.

Grease fittings are used to lubricate machine parts that require grease. They are available in different threads, lengths, materials and finishes, and are filled with grease from a grease guns. The head of the grease fitting prevents the grease from escaping the fitting.

Air Vent Grease Fittings

Air vent grease fittings are used on transmissions and gear boxes on automobiles. They allow air to escape while preventing water and dirt from entering.

Stainless Steel Grease Fittings

Stainless steel grease fittings offer greater resistance against corrosion unlike traditional carbon steel grease fittings.

Leak Proof Grease Fittings

Leak proof grease fittings are airtight and use a special purpose grease or lubrication. This special purpose grease or lubrication creates the airtight seal.

Special Thread Grease Fittings

Special thread grease fittings are designed to use special lubrication. They are used to fit into straight threaded holes.

Pressure Relief Grease Fittings

Pressure relief grease fittings are mostly used in gear box housings and bearings. They are found where excessive lubricant pressures are not desired.

Z-car enthusiasts worldwide were impressed by the Nissan Fairlady Z, later known as the 300ZX. This sports model was the third and fourth generation of the Z car and the only series that had a completely different body style. Z-car enthusiasts not only enjoy the 300 ZXs visual impact but they also keep abreast of the regular maintenance this model requires to run well and run fast.

Oil Change

The oil should be changed every 3,000 miles. Warm up the car enough to get the temperature gauge needle to begin to rise. Drive the passenger front tire up on a 2-by-4 to get enough ground clearance. Turn car off, put it in gear and engage the emergency brake. Unscrew the oil fill cap on top of engine. Place an oil pan under engine. Carefully remove the drain plug as the oil will be warm or hot. Catch oil in the drip pan. Remove the oil filter next to the plug and set it in the oil catch pan. After draining oil, reattach the drain plug. Screw in a new oil filter. Refill the engine with synthetic oil. Check the level with the dipstick constantly to fill in the proper amount. Avoid overfilling.

Tire Vibration

Tires can be off balance because of things such as flat spots on the tires. The vibrations are typically felt at a constant speed and may increase and decrease or go away. If the vibration is caused by the front tires, the steering wheel will vibrate in unison. If the passenger seat vibrates, the rear tires are causing the movement. This can usually be corrected by having the tires spun balanced to detect the dense part of the rubber.

60K Maintenance

Every 60,000 miles the air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter and timing belts should be replaced, according to the Nissan Service Manual. The oil should be changed, and an inspection should be done on the caper lines, fuel lines, brake lines and cables. The brake pads, rotors, transmission fluid, differential gear oil, steering gear, linkage axle, suspension parts, steering linkage ball joints, front suspension ball joints, Super HICAS linkage and exhaust systems all should be inspected as well.

Slipping Clutch

The master cylinder and clutch should be replaced on all 300ZXs made before 1992. Cylinders made in 1992 and after have a bigger bore for the fluid that helps solve the slipping clutch issue. Nissan recommends changing that part and the clutch return spring if clutch adjustment does not correct the issue.

If you own a vehicle, you also better own a car jack to use in the event of a tire blow-out, a flat tire or another emergency. Besides the jack that comes with your car, there are many other great car jacks and auto body jack tools on the market today.

Trolley Floor Jacks

Trolley floor jacks are close to the ground so they can get under low loads, and they are usually operated with hydraulics. A good floor jack should have a reinforced lift arm for added strength and strong side plates. Some trolley floor jacks operate in a two-stage lift or have dual pump pistons for a quicker rise. Bypass and overload valves in case of an emergency are recommended. The wheels should run on bearings and the rear wheels should swivel for easy positioning of the jack. Among the wide selection of trolley floor jacks you can find low-profile garage jacks and other professional jacks, long-frame jacks, jacks with an adjustable saddle and more. Many trolley floor jacks are easily collapsible for convenient storage.

Trail Jacks

Trail jacks are a necessity for off-road vehicles. They jack straight up in a line and can go much higher than a conventional jack. Trail jacks have an extra large base so they can stand securely on any terrain. The long handle can come separately or attached to the base. A trail jack should be lightweight and easy to maneuver, but should be able to hold up to 7,000 pounds. It should be made of hard steel. Some trail jacks have a top winch-clamp-spreader attachment, which makes the jack a more versatile tool. Such trail jacks dont only lift the car, they can also push, pull and clamp and act as a winch. Another, more unusual trail jack is an inflatable jack that gets hooked to the vehicles tailpipe. The engine is started and the jack inflates. It raises the car quickly and has a lifting capacity of up to 8,800 pounds. And it gives excellent performance in any terrain.

Bottle Jacks

Bottle jacks are hydraulic jacks that look a little like a bottle. They are placed in a horizontal position. A long lever lifts a main arm on a bottle jack and provides more lift per stroke than you can get with a conventional jack. They can lift just about anything and are standard equipment for search-and-rescue teams because its possible to place them in tight spots. They provide good leverage wherever they are placed.

Other Jacks

The most common car jacks are scissor jacks, which unfold similar to a pair of scissors when jacking up a car. They are compact, have a removable handle and are found in most cars today. Cylindrical jacks can handle from 5 tons to more than 1,000 tons weight, so theyre perfect for large vehicles. They often come with an internal spring that helps close the jack when the pressure is released. Air-powered jacks work with compressed air and are preferred in jobs where sparks are a hazard.

Electrical problems in the 1991 Toyota Previa could cause a fire. After multiple consumer complaints to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) of compartment fires caused by a short circuit in the cars radio/tape deck, Toyota issued a recall in September 1993.

Consumer Complaints

Consumer complaints on the NHTSA website indicate that multiple 1991 Toyota Previa owners experienced fires, some of which totaled their vehicles, due to electrical problems. Many of the reported fires occurred overnight, while the vehicles were parked.

Recall

On September 9, 1993, Toyota notified NHTSA that they would be recalling 1991 Previa and Camry vehicles due to a manufacturing problem in the cars radio/tape deck unit. A wiring problem in the affected Toyotas could cause a short circuit and ultimately lead to a fire.

Repair

Owners of vehicles affected by the recall should have been notified by Toyota and instructed to bring the Previas in for free repair of the radio. Consumer reports to NHTSA indicate that multiple fires occurred due to this issue years after the recall. Several claim they were never notified. Previa owners experiencing wiring problems can contact NHTSA or Toyota with their VIN numbers to determine if their car could be affected.

The Pontiac Grand Am SE came standard with a 150-horsepower, 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine, but did have an optional 170-horsepower, 3.4-liter V-6 engine, which some people know as the 3400 V-6. The 2000 Grand Am SE used a muffler-like component, the catalytic converter, to convert the toxic gasses in the exhaust to less harmful ones. Replacing the cat on the 2000 Grand Am SE 3400 is a straightforward task, thanks to the vehicles simple exhaust design.

Instructions

Removal

1

Allow the vehicle to sit until the engine is cool to the touch, then allow it to sit for an additional hour to allow the exhaust and catalytic converter to cool completely.

2

Lift the front of the Grand Am with a floor jack and slide jack stands under its subframe. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

3

Crawl under the center of the vehicle and find the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly. Position a pair of jack stands under the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly to support it.

4

Remove the three bolts securing the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly to the intermediate pipe -- the pipe to the rear of the catalytic converter -- using a ratchet and socket.

5

Unfasten the two bolts securing the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly to the exhaust manifold crossover pipe, which is the pipe connecting the front and rear exhaust manifolds, using a ratchet and socket. Slowly lower the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly and remove it from the vehicle.

6

Pull the old gaskets from the crossover and intermediate pipes, if needed, and scour the mating surfaces of both pipes with a wire brush.

Installation

7

Crawl under the vehicle with the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assembly in hand and set the assembly on the jack stands to hold it in place.

8

Line up the bolt holes in the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assemblys front-most flange with those in the crossover pipes flange. Slide a new gasket between the flanges, aligning the gaskets bolt holes with those in the flanges, and hand-tighten the two retaining bolts.

9

Align the bolt holes on the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assemblys rearmost flange with those on the intermediate pipes flange. Slide a new gasket between the flanges, aligning the bolt holes in the gasket with those in the flanges, and hand-tighten the bolts.

10

Tighten all five of the catalytic converter-and-front pipe assemblys retaining bolts to 25 foot-pounds using a torque wrench and socket.

11

Raise the Grand Am off the jack stands and remove the stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

The function of a crankshaft pulley is to drive the serpentine belt and to absorb the resonance from the crankshaft generated by the engine of a vehicle. The crankshaft pulley is a circular wheel connected to the crankshaft and is fixed to the engine by a bolt, which is located in the center of the pulley. Depending on the placement of the timing belt of the vehicle, you will find the pulley located either on the front of the engine or on the side.

Instructions

1

Put on the safety goggles before you begin.

2

Identify and locate the crankshaft pulley. Locate the small plastic roller that presses down on the drive belt at the bottom of the pulley.

3

Release the drive belt off the crankshaft pulley by attaching the locking pliers to the small metal arm (located at the top) of the pulley and pulling it. This will cause the small plastic roller on the tension pulley to lift, and will release the drive belt clear of the crankshaft pulley.

4

Unbolt the crankshaft pulley bolt located at the center of the pulley by fixing the crankshaft bolt removal tool over the crank pulley bolt.

5

Secure the socket end of the impact wrench to the bolt remover tool and set it to turn counter-clockwise.

6

Turn on the air compressor and wait for the compressor to charge up completely before working the bolt loose.

7

Remove the crankshaft pulley by fixing the arms of the crankshaft pulley removal tool securely over the pulley with the bolts that come with the tool.

8

Tighten the bolts on the tool until the crankshaft pulley is free of the crankshaft.

9

Clean the pulley hub of any corrosion or dry rust with a fine emery cloth before installing the new crankshaft pulley.

10

Install the new crankshaft pulley into the engine by fixing the bolt back in the center of the new pulley in the reverse direction of its removal.

11

Replace the drive belt in the reverse direction of its removal and release the locking pliers from the tension pulley before closing the hood of the vehicle.

A transmission mount provides support for the transmission. A transmission mount and a motor mount are essentially identical, but one supports the transmission and the other the engine. Both are often referred to as a motor mount.

Protecting Transmission

The primary purpose of a transmission mount is to hold the transmission in place and reduce its movements. A transmission that moves too much can cause damage, especially in the linkages between the transmission and the engine and drive shaft. Transmission movements can also damage lines and hoses running from or near the transmission.

Noise and Vibration

Another purpose of the transmission mount is to reduce the amount of noise and vibration in the vehicle. This is done to make the vehicle drive as smoothly and quietly as possible both for the comfort of the driver and passengers as well as to reduce wear on the vehicle body and suspension.

Design

Most transmission mounts are simple devices made of two metal plates and a block of rubber. One plate attaches to the transmission and the other to the vehicles body. The rubber block is held between the plates and dampens the transmissions movements. Some transmission mounts are hydraulic, using a hydraulic fluid in place of the rubber.

DeVilbiss gravity feed spray guns are designed the same way that other spray guns are; in order to paint using a DeVilbiss HVLP gun you must adjust them for air pressure, flow rate of material and spray pattern. Making these adjustments to the gun will allow you to properly spray any paint, including enamel paint, when it has been properly thinned.

Instructions

1

Plug the air compressors air line into the base of the DeVilbiss spray gun; it has a universal fitting that locks into the air line. You will see the air pressure gauge at the base of the gun register the overall air pressure from the compressor when the line is properly inserted.

2

Adjust the knob at the base of the DeVilbiss spray gun until the dial indicator registers 20 pounds per square inch. This is the optimum spraying pressure for enamel paint.

3

Pull the trigger of the spray gun. The trigger should pull back within 1/2-inch of the handle. The spray adjustment knob is located at the top and the back of the spray gun; turning the knob counterclockwise will reduce the amount of play in the spray guns trigger, thus reducing the amount of paint allowed into the sprayer.

4

Locate the knob on the side of the spray gun. On a DeVilbiss HVLP, this knob controls the width of the spray pattern of the gun. Adjust this knob all the way counterclockwise to open the spray pattern all the way.; at this setting, when spraying 12 inches from the surface, the spray pattern will be 12 inches wide.

5

Locate the knob just above the webbing of your thumb and forefinger when holding the spray gun; this knob controls the air pressure of the gun. Turn the knob all the way clockwise to open up the gun completely. Because you have a pressure reading of 20 PSI from the air control knob, you do not need to further restrict the air flow.

6

Thin the enamel paint with a 4:1 ratio of paint to enamel thinner; this is the accepted standard for spraying enamel paint through a 20 PSI spray gun. You should doublecheck the paint data sheets to make certain, though, as some paint manufacturers may produce their paint slightly thicker or thinner, and will recommend a different optimal pressure accordingly.

The bolts connecting the components of your vehicles exhaust system are prone to rust. When rust fills the small gap located between the threads of each bolt and the threads of each bolts hex nut securing the bolt to the exhaust, the bolt and nut can fuse. That can make it difficult to loosen the nuts to work on your exhaust, or it can cause you to break the bolt altogether. Heating the bolt to get it off is a bad idea: Extremes in temperature can effectively break the bond between the two fasteners; also, when using heat you run the risk of creating a fire around the vehicle or igniting fumes from the fuel system. A safer alternative to heat is to "super-cool" one fastener.

Instructions

1

Remove large rust scaling from each exhaust bolt by tapping the bolts with a hammer and running a wire brush back and forth across the threads of each exhaust bolt. Clean the loose rust particles from each bolt with a clean rag.

2

Shake a can of freezing penetrating oil according to the cans usage instructions.

3

Hold the nozzle of the spray can 2 to 3 inches from the threads of the exhaust bolt. Spray the penetrating oil on the bolt for five to 10 seconds. Allow the penetrating oil to sit on the fastener for one to three minutes.

4

Choose a socket from a socket set that matches the size of the hex nut connected to the exhaust bolt and atach the socket to a breaker bar. Turn the nut on the exhaust bolt counterclockwise with the breaker bar. Spray additional freezing penetrating oil on the threads of the exhaust bolt if the nut does not break free.

5

Push hard counterclockwise with the breaker bar to snap the exhaust bolt if the nut will not work free with the penetrating oil.

You can pull the codes from your 88 Mazda RX7 using a small computerized device known as an OBD I code reader. These tools can be purchased at any auto parts store. The Mazda RX7 comes equipped with an On-Board Diagnostics I computer (OBD I), which receives and stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors found throughout the vehicle. When a sensor detects a malfunction and sends a code to the computer, the computer illuminates a warning or service light on the instrument panel.

Instructions

1

Locate the diagnostic port found on the drivers side dash. Plug the code reader into this port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position, but dont start the vehicle. This will turn on most code readers. If not, find the on/off switch on the reader and turn it on.

3

Wait for the code reader to interface with the Mazdas computer. Most readers will retrieve the codes automatically; for some readers you have to select the "Retrieve Codes" command on the face of the reader.

4

Write down the codes the reader displays and look up their meanings in the code readers manual.

5

Unplug the code reader and turn off the vehicle. Have the Mazda serviced or repaired based on the information obtained from the codes.

Even a clean and orderly workplace can produce health challenges for the employees. Repetitive motions, a lack of lumbar support and physically demanding work with poor tools are three examples of the ways environments can lead to back, shoulder or other body issues. Ergonomic awareness plays a key role in preventing possible issues. In the specific case of torque application, an informed tool selection can lead to both less body stress and an overall heightened productivity.

Torque Tool Overview

Torque tools apply a rotational motion to threaded fasteners. The tools are typical choices for tightening or removing lug nuts on automobiles or bolts during the manufacturing process. Sensors built into the tools can provide real-time measurements for the applied torque and rotation. However, use of these tools can apply forces apart from those directed toward the fasteners they are designed to tighten. When bolts are secured, the tools can jerk on user wrists or limbs before coming to a full stop. These stresses are the subject for ergonomics. Understanding the limits of both the tools and the human bodies using them will result in an informed selection of the best possible tool for the job.

Acceptable Limits

Human bodies come in a single shape with room for subtle variations. The mass of the human arm is one of the determining factors for the amount of force it can resist. Fitness is a determinant in how much force a body can tolerate. Limits still apply to all cases. Too great a level of force will result in tissue, bone or joint damage, no matter how fit the tools user. An acceptable ergonomic torque tool is determined to be those devices which cause the least amount of force to the wielder once the threaded fastener has been tightened to its limit.

Qualitatively Defining Discomfort

Through use of a tool test rig, a University of Ohio researcher investigated several styles of torque tools. He devised a method to understand the effects different tools have on the users, known as a response torque. According to his literature survey and observations, high levels of discomfort corresponded to high response torques. The research study tested specific effects by creating spring and pressure systems to represent variables such as arm stiffness, joint hardness and arm mass. With these, the study could judge how much torque different tools applied to their users. Tools demonstrated acceptable response torque ranges between 8.8 to 44.3 foot-pounds (12 to 60 Newton-meters). He tested pneumatic and electric tools with various configurations. In the end, he rated each tool with a discomfort level, which can be used to qualitatively compare each tools efficacy as an ergonomic device.

Research Study Results

DC electric-powered right angle tools received low to medium discomfort ratings. These tools operate on DC power and are constructed with a long handle, allowing easy access to hard-to-reach bolts, nuts or other joint connectors. This handle also acts like the simple tool known as a lever, using its distance component to aid the user. As with other models of torque tightening tool, such as the drill-shaped torque wrench, the right angle design produces twists or jerks to the users wrists, arms and shoulders after the fastener is tightened to the limit. However, instead of relying on a humans ability to release a trigger in a timely fashion, many right angle tools come with a computer-aided, real-time torque monitor, which can respond much more quickly.

The Volvo 900 series is a range of mid-size cars made by Volvo during the 1990s, and the 940 models were in production from 1991 to 1997. The 1992 940 GL had a four-cylinder 2.3-liter engine with electronic fuel injection. These fuel injectors deliver a precise ratio of fuel and air to the engine at high pressure. The fuel injectors on the 1992 Volvo 940 GL are on top of the engine and are accessible from the engine compartment.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuel pump relay under the dashboard and start the engine. Allow the engine to idle until it stalls to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Turn the ignition off and replace the fuel pump relay.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the accidental discharge of fuel. Detach the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel injection manifold. Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator from the bracket of the fuel rail with a socket wrench.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the fuel injection manifold with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel injection manifold and fuel injectors from the engine as an assembly. Secure the fuel injection manifold in place on a work bench and disconnect the fuel injectors from the manifold.

4

Remove the O-rings from the fuel injectors and replace them if they show signs of wear. Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the O-rings, and install them onto the new fuel injectors. Connect the fuel injector to the fuel injection manifold and install this assembly onto the engine. Tighten the retaining bolts for the fuel injection manifold with a socket wrench.

5

Connect the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail bracket and attach the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator with a socket wrench. Connect the fuel lines and electrical connectors to the fuel injection manifold. Connect the cable to negative terminal of the battery. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Hub bolts connect the wheels to the hub assembly. These bolts can occasionally get stripped or bent, requiring removal and replacement. It helps if you have some auto-repair experience, but even if you dont you should be able to tackle the job. In some applications its easier to replace the entire wheel assembly than to attempt to replace just the hub bolts. However, for some vehicles, the wheel assembly may be permanently attached or a replacement may not be readily available.

Instructions

1

Break the lugs for the wheel that needs replacement hub bolts, using the breaker bar and lug socket. Block up a wheel to ensure that the tires wont roll when the vehicle is lifted. Use the hydraulic lift to pick the vehicle up at a structural point. Place the jack stands under structure points and lower the lift until the vehicles weight is distributed between the lift and the jack stands.

2

Remove the lugs and wheel. Place the lugs inside the wheel and slide the wheel underneath the vehicle. Use the hex key set to remove the retainer bolts from the brake caliper. Slightly tap the caliper with a hammer to loosen it from the rotor.

3

Grasp the brake rotor and pull it loose from the wheel assembly. Place the 35 mm hub socket on the wheel hub nut and remove it with the breaker bar. Remove the hub nut and pull the hub assembly off the suspension column. Use the hammer and the hammering pin to beat the hub bolts from the front. Replace with new hub bolts by hammering them in from the back until the strike plate is even with the back of the hub assembly.